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Z-19 rev 1.7 --Creality mod

by Dan_W_58 May 15, 2018
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This looks sooo coool!! Great Job

You Bet Dan, it reminds me of a heart like your saying this is the heart of my 3d printer.

Very cool and different idea - Do you have a remix using a 5015 Fan?

Yes, I do; I called it Z-23, to stick to prime numbers.
Unfortunately, there is gcode for PETG only, as I had a whole roll of PETG to consume, and didn't want to change materials to make tests; so if you want to use PLA or some other material, you'll have to generate gcode from the .stl file.

Z-23 Rev 2.2c Creality Mod

Just finished cleaning them up and getting ready to install

Great work!
Don't forget you need one of the sensor brackets. People often miss that and they break the model when they tighten the screws.
If you have no bed level sensors, or other than BL-Touch or EZABL, you'll need to insert the dummy bracket.

Sensor brackets for Z-19/23 rev 1.92

I was hoping to print this in resin, but it is barely to big

I've no idea about printing in resin.

I wanted to test it, but it is just barely to big to fit lol. The material should hold up against the heat and is plenty strong enough

Sorry, I don't understand; what's too big to fit what? And what's it got to do with material used, anyways?

Nothing, he just said, that he would have liked to print it with his Resin printer, but because resin printers are pretty small, it does not fit.

Ah, ok, got you. I did not even know that 'resin printers' existed, until now. Thanks for the clarification.

Has anyone who printed this in pla and installed it notice any warping in the duct ends? Love the design and would love to print in pla due to printer already being setup up for it.

I've printed it in PLA, PLA Plus, Carbon Fiber Nylon, and in PETG. My best results were always in PLA, but I blame myself rather than the materials. I had many cloggings of the all-metal hot end using CF-nylon, but that's probably my having too much retraction, I learned posthumously. Anyways, warping is not an issue with Z-19 (or Z-23), as accuracy is irrelevant to the function of this Thing. This is just a glorified casing. fan holder and air-duct.

Very nice! I just started the print petg with the given gcode and noticed it is printing very slow, is this by design or should I speed things up? Thank you for the great work

I optimized the gcode for quality rather than speed; you can tweak it though; but keep in mind that the most sensitive parts come at the second half of the print, like all those wires for the fan grill.

There doesn't seem to be a model with a BLTouch bracket (or an EZABL bracket). There's only 1 STL included, a blender file, and a few zips that contain gcode and fff files. Where are the versions with the z probe mounts?

Sorry, just got back. You need to print the brackets to use with the Z-19 or Z-23:

Sensor brackets for Z-19/23 rev 1.92

Printed this in PETG on ender 3 using provided g code, which took 24 hours at an average of 140% speed. (though it was a 12 hr print?) It came out mostly good, but had some issues with both of the fan grills, which were likely contributed to by a filament feeding issue.

There was a little confusion on how it was intended to be mounted. I ended up breaking the part off that looked like it was supposed to screw onto the extruder, and just mounting with the 2 main screw. Working good, but it'd be nice to see the spacer file included, or a version that doesn't need a spacer.

I think it'd be cool to see a version of this without either of the fan grills. Since the extruder grill failed on my print, i cut it off at the base, and I like the look more. My idea has no support for the cooling fan either - just strip those parts off and release a 'simplified' version for easier printing and better looks. Might make sense to remove the extruder mounting points on this variant, I haven't decided. Of course a spacer-less version would be helpful.

Anyways, thanks for the model as is. It shows a lot of devotion and effort, and I'm liking what I've ended up with so far.

My pleasure, literally; but I want to apollogize to everyone for the freeze on my projects. My circumstances have changed radically. I used to just be the electrical engineer, here at work; but the guy that was doing all the embedded microcontroller programming quit, and so now I'm the software guy too. I'm working about 14 hours a day plus Sundays (NOT charging for the overtime, as the company is in serious trouble). Anyways, just so everyone knows I haven't abandoned the 3D printing world; just taking a sabattical you could say, until things around here get better (hopefully).

No need to apologise we enjoy your labor for free so no complaints here. I'm just getting into 3D printing and i must say I enjoy the things people like you post. The only issue i have is weather to print the Z-19 or wait for the new one to be finished :)

A big thank you to you

For the Ender 3, looks like there is an issue with the EZABL brackets. I printed up the 18mm one as i just got mine delivered from TH3D. Put it on today and noticed that the carriage can't reach the x axis stop because the ring collides with the housing of the stop. See pics.

I measured, and you have about 2.5mm between the bracket ring and the left "fang", but in order to get to the stop the carriage needs to move about 4 to 5mm more to the left. So sliding the ring over to right a bit won't work necessarily.

However, you could move the ring down about 11mm to slip under the xstop housing, but i'm not certain if that would be too low for the EZABL. It probably would be honestly.

Alternatively, could slide the ring out (torwards front of printer) about 5mm and that might solve it. But not sure if that's too far from nozzle to be effective at that point.

Anyway, this is just for the ender 3. I dunno if other printers have same issue. I'm gonna have to go whip up my own bracket in order to make this work for now it seems, if i can match it up to the z-19 anyways.

Uploaded, but as a new Thing, called "AL sensor brackets for Z-19 and Z-23".
It's rev 1.9.

Sensor brackets for Z-19/23 rev 1.92

sweet, i'll print this today most likely and see how it does. Thank you!

ok, printed 18mm bracket, and it looks good! It lines up fine once i did a couple minor mods. The sort of fin side, on the right, pointing towards the cooling block, is slightly too long and hits the standoffs that the cooling block screws into. I just trimmed the end off on that side a little bit and all good there. holding it up to the dummy plate and trimming to match made it easy. The large hole in top left that allows access to the screw for the wheel, i had to scrape out the bottom right side a bit as it was forcing the other two holes just enough out of alignment with the back plate and the z19 itself that the screws wouldn't go in. Nothing a knife and 2 secs of scraping couldn't handle.

On a side note, i have a couple suggestions, take them or leave them. To be clear, i love the z19 overall, fantastic bit of kit and clearly a lot of work went into it. I'm going to continue using it as is. I just have a few small cons that you can address if you see fit in a next revision.

A) access to the coupler on the cooling block. I had to clear a jam and this necessitated unscrewing the coupler and such. The body of the z19 was too much in the way to allow me to get a small wrench back there without taking the whole z19 off. Nota big deal, not sure if addressable, just letting ya know.

B) this one is more important, and would probably get in the way of fixing A) above, but, the little hook that is supposed to keep the bowden tube and the hooks out of the way, should probably move over and down. In fact, a more ideal spot for it would be attached to the back side of where the fangs join up. The reason being, when you move to the top of the z axis, the hook holds the bowden in a place where it will collide with the cross bar which will either stop the print, bend/crack/break the bowden and filament, or possible snap something off the z19 as the printer tries to move the carriage up. If you move it to just behind the split for the fang, it wouldn't have this problem, and would still keep things nicely aligned. Alternatively... just remove the hook entirely, i'm not convinced it's actually needed while printing.

Anyway, great stuff overall! keep up the good work. Also thank you for being cool in the comments and not a super defensive dbag taking everything like a personal attack as some folks around here do.

Hahaha, LOL, well, I want to achieve perfection (I'm a perfectionist in everything I do), and for that I need a lot of feedback, specially critical feedback, so I love comments like yours; it's a god-send to me.
Could you tell me which side of the hole you had to trim? I have not printed the brackets yet, myself; not even once; working blind really. Hopefully this weekend I will, but if you tell me which direction to move the hole, by how much, I can revise the STL's right away, possibly before I leave work (less than 3 hours from now, tho).
Not busy with work right now, so I can play with Blender for a bit...
I'll start by trimming the edge on the inside. I knew I was pretty close to the hot end, from my 3D modeling of things, so I was taking a bit of a chance there.
Regarding A) I never intended to make the hot end accessible, cleanable or de-cloggable without removal of the Z-19. Never even thought of the possibility of that. Let me ruminate that for a while.
Regarding B) it could be a detachable hook. Imagine two cylindrical axes to the sides of the air duct blower plug, like on the sides of the head of Dr. Frankenstein's creation, and a U-shaped cable hook that snaps onto those axes.

sure, the big hole had to have the bottom right side trimmed out just a touch.
A) not a major deal, it's just nice to not have to undo 7 screws and remove the whole thing for some stuff
B) yea that makes sense. Whatever you like, just want to make sure folks can use their full print height and not cause a fail at the last bit. Which would really suck if you are printing something 250mm tall and it fails after around 200 something mark. ouch.

Okay, I'm going to assume 0.5 mm to the right and 0.5 mm down, for the hole. If I'm wrong stop me, but I'll change the brackets on this assumption; and it will be revision 1.92.
I'm thinking about A), no ideas yet...

should probably be about right. One thing you could also do is make the hole there oblong/oval shaped instead of perfect circle. And have it angled 45 degrees left, so it runs lone top left to bottom right. This might look weird i suppose. But reason that might be handy is for changing out the bracket. Currently to change the bracket you have to loosen the 2 mounting screws of course, then remove the fan, then loosen the cooling block mounting screws, all before changing the bracket. This is because the wheel screw sticks out to much and hits the side of the gap you made for it if you try just loosening the 2 mounting screws and sliding the bracket out. Perhaps, if the hole were oblong, you could get away with changing the bracket by just removing the 2 mounting screws as you might have enough room to side the plate out and over. Not sure, but a possibility.

I considered making only the front end of the hole a hole, only large enough for screwdriver access, while the back being a circular path around the top mounting screw that would allow the brackets to rotate by removing only the bottom left mounting screw, and simply loosening the top right mounting screw a tad. I discarded the idea based on a costs vs benefits. The same cost/benefit outcome would go to elongating the hole to make brackets removable/exchangeable:
The benefit: Being able to change the bracket without removing the Z-xx.
The cost: Weakness; --reducing toughness of the bracket, in general.
Hard to quantify the exact cost without experimenting, in absolute terms; but in relative terms (toughness of elongated hole bracket versus toughness of non-elongated hole) is easier visualize: it is the ratio between areas of diagonal cross-sections across the hole for the two versions, with the cross section aligning with the long dimension for the oval hole one. Basically a 1:2 ratio evaluated from mental visuals.
As for the benefit, it is huge as you describe it, but it needs to be multiplied by the frequency of necessitating a change of bracket. I can only think of three situations requiring a change of the bracket: 1) Upgrading the auto-bed-leveling system, --or TO having an ABL from not having one--, or 2) the bracket breaking, or 3) the bracket being swapped for a newer revision.
1) would presumably occur very seldom
2) would presumably never occur; knock on wood-PLA (does it work?)
3) is happening all the time presently because it's a new design, but by revision 2.0 will probably have settled permanently.
Still thinking about A). What does (A) entail? Or, what exactly is in the way of access? The goal is to be able to remove the bowden tube? I imagine you could do this now. What's hard about removing a bowden tube is that pushing the ring and pulling the tube at the same time is not trivial, and the top fan being where it is not helping much; but perhaps I could design a bowden tube extracting tool, instead of modifying the Z's.

Thanks! This is the kind of feedback I've been hoping for,
Okay, I'll fix this ASAP; probably this weekend.
I'll move frontwards mostly, and right a bit.
Distance between the sensor and the nozzle is pretty irrelevant, as what TH3D's firmware does is, knowing the XY from the nozzle (which you have to enter in the config file), it moves the print head so the sensor is where the nozzle would be, and stores the height there. The only issue is range of sensing (X and Y limits).

Works great thank you for your time designing this part :)

Ah, good to know. Specially since I haven't printed revision 1.7, myself, so I was anxious to know if the gcode was ok.
Thanks for the feedback.

Your Settings are amazing! Printed it on S3D with my normal settings and it failed miserably... a week later, printing your g-code and it's beautiful. What slicer are you using? and could I possibly trouble you for your printer profile? I know no printer is the same, but it's the best print I've got out of my CR-10S 5.

Thanks for your time and effort.

Thanks! I did work hard at refining the settings, but most of the credit goes to Simplify3D, the tool I use for slicing. I went through purgatory with Cura and Slic3r, and then one day, just like you, I downloaded a Thing in gcode and it printed amazing, and I went back to find out how it was done, and it said it was done with Simplify3D, so I bought Simplify. If you decide to do the same, you can grab my fff file, --there's two of them in the downloads, one for PLA+ and one for PETG. If not, a basic summary of what I'm setting up is as follows:
I have retraction at 5 mm, coasting at 2.4 mm (this is the distance the extruder stops extruding before the end of a run, so the last 2.4 mm are layed out for pressure already built up in the nozzle). Then I have extra restart distance at 0.04 mm. This what I calculated as the exact necessity given the 2.4 mm coasting, assuming 0.1 mm layer thickness. Essentially, 2.4 mm times 0.4 mm extrusion width times 0.1 mm thicknes gives you a volume of material. That volume divided by the cross section area of 1.75 mm filament = 0.04 mm.
Other than that, I have NO vertical Z displacement, or very little, meaning a fraction of the layer thicness, so, much less than 0.1 mm. Reason being that if you have a vertical move during retraction, it tends to leave a hair sticking up in the plastic, and next time the nozzle comes around it hits that hair and gets dirty, and things go downhill from there.
But one of the many things Simplify gives you that the other tools don't is a "Wipe Motion", which I'm not sure what it is, but I suspect is a motion back along the path it came, from the end of a run, to give any oozing the chance to stay there rather than follow the nozzle along the final frontier.


Any way you could export your .fff settings for both PETG and PLA? I've been trying to glean what I can from your g-code but I think many users could benefit from running these parts with your process settings. Looking forward to printing the Z-23 1.81 file, as I have already swapped out the stock fan for a blower. I was about to print the Z-19 1.7 and reinstall the stock fan until I saw your update. Been watching your progress closely, really exciting stuff here!

Thanks, bsherer; the files are already uploaded. Maybe you missed them because I zipped them.
They are the two files ending with "... .fff.zip".
Yeah, the Z-23 is not tested yet, and I haven't put in the cable hooks at the back; I'll try to finish this tonight, if you can wait.
EDIT: The fff files are here, in the Z-19; not in the Z-23.

Simplify was the saving grace and the deciding factor of whether to keep trying or give it up as a bad decision. But it still wasn't enough for me, but I'll test your settings on a few things I've struggled with! Thanks so much for the insight! As I read it it all began to make sense, now it's a case of learning to use your advice...

Great job on this all around. I'm currently printing rev 1.7 in PLA using your gcode. I had previously printed 1.5 but it failed (octoprint crashed on me, not your fault nor the printers). Anyway, popped in to check on it and noticed that the hole for the screw to the hot end had a gap in it that doesn't look like print failure. Check the pic, pretty much in the center there the closer hole has a stepped in gap in the wall. The prior 1.5 didn't have this. Dunno if by design, just thought I'd mention it if not. Will see how it all comes out in about 10 hours when it's finished. Also, btw, when I sliced it and in your approximation this should take 24 hours+, but using your gcode it looks like aiming for around 19 or less. Which is cool, never had a print go down in time estimate as it prints lol.
Printing using Ender 3

Sorry, I replied to one posting under another posting.
I see that. I'll have to check in Simplify3D, on my other computer. However, the hole is in a place that does not hurt anything.
That wall really serves no purpose.
Regarding the gcode, what I set up Simplify 3D to do, which saves a lot of time, is combining supports and infills every two layers. So, only the perimeters, the outlines, are printing at 0.1mm resolution; everything else prints at 0.2.
I'll see if that's on the gcode itself, and post again.

Printed successfully in PLA (not plus) took right at 17 hours! Used your gcode and adjusted temp to 205.
That hole closed up eventually before it hit the top. Couple things, again dunno if designed or gcode, some holes on the other end of the same area (see pics), sort of above and below the screw hole for hotend. Also just a small suggestion, maybe consider flattening out the 3 connections from that spot, the ones that sort of point out towards the fan screw holes. When it prints, since it's a sharp angle and kind of hanging out there, you get either lots of dropped filament loops or it'll curl up and the extruder hits it when it moves around. Ultimately it worked but I wonder if it would work better with a straight bridge all the way across to start (and using slower bridging settings so it gets there without droop). I imagine most people, like me, are printing this with a less awesome part cooling setup.

Anyway, great job all around. I have a good bit of clean up to do on it where supports were attached but it looks like it'll work nicely. Oh and last thing, there are lots of parts where the printer jerks back and forth quickly. Since in using a glass bed binder clipped to my Ender 3, I think some of the jiggle ultimately caused very slight shift which caused some distortion in the wire cage and stuff, no big deal really, just a caution for others.

Okay, I finally looked at it in Simplify3D. What's happening is that the walls around the screw-holes are so thin they are single extrusion, which is not a problem per se; but it gets more complicated when you have a coasting distance set up. The view of the gcode in Simplify shows only the active extrusion distance. Coasting shows as nothing; --no filament. So, on the screen I see missing chunks of those walls, but I have no way to know whether the chunks are missing because of coasting distances not showing, or because there is an actual missing piece. But, in any case, those walls don't serve a purpose.
I know what you're talking about, those three tangential things curling up during printing. I did improve it, but not totally.
The supports do leave rough surfaces, but that's why I print it with the back on the build table, --so that the roughness stays on the back, which you normally don't see. Paint usually smoothes the roughness too. I always paint first, clean later. The paint helps me see more clearly what needs to be cleaned and what I can live with, and it seems to make the parts a bit stronger too; not sure if this is placebo effect or a real thing. If I try to clean up a part before I paint it, I often break something. After painting I rarely do.

no worries about the back side clean up, i opted just to not worry about it really. I was installing this last night and small disaster struck. The top fan (that blows into the fangs) was a really tight fit and as i was screwing it in i was holding the 2 outer curves (that branch off horizontally) and suddenly that whole part shattered off. It's not a huge deal since the back plate and screw holes are still good. I didn't think i was gripping hard, just holding steady but so it goes with PLA sometimes.

BTW, i definitely had to go get longer screws for the extruder to attach back, as you indicate may be needed in the description.

Yes, it IS fragile. I've broken my own test prints of the Z-19 at least at every other revision. Most likely disaster time for me is when I'm separating the supports; but I've also very often broken the fan grill trying to clean blobs and hairs from the wires.
So the original, 18 mm hot end screws were not long enough? I still don't know how it is possible that for me they are long enough but for others they aren't. You are the second person reporting that. Must be something about not all Crealities being created equal. I'll put a more serious note about it, then.

Comments deleted.

Hello, Dan! Looks like a meticulously thought-out design; thanks much for sharing your work. I want to print this on/for my shiny new Ender-3.

Maybe I am just overlooking them, but I can't seem to find the .gcode files in the 1.7 rev file archive...I see the Blender, fff .zips and .stl files, but not the gcode...I am using Cura currently, so I'd like to try your Simplify sliced file. Let me know if I am just missing something.

Thanks. There is no gcode file yet, because last night I found a problem with revision 1.61 that I had just released, and so I worked like crazy to fix it, but it was past 1am by the time I finished uploading the revision 1.7 STL, so I had no energy left to make gcode. So, I'm going to make it now. It's 3:20pm here in Montreal, I will probably upload it by 5 or 6 pm if you can wait. Note however that currently I'm working with PETG, so the main gcode will be for PETG. I'll try to produce a PLA gcode also; but the problem is I don't have PLA filament right now, so I can't verify that it works, --it will be "use at your own risk".

OK! Greatly appreciate your efforts.

This is some amazing work, Dan! Keep it coming! I was struggling with PETG and couldn't get extrusion dialed in, then my spool of filament go to the point that I need to dry it in the oven. I took the opportunity to flash the firmware on my printer (couldn't stand having no thermal runaway protection any longer) and I need to calibrate, so I have not had a chance to print a Z-19 yet. As soon as I do, I'll get to printing as I cannot wait to get one of these on my E3.

Speaking of PETG, I need to upgrade to an all-metal heatsink and I was looking at an E3D V6. Anyone know if the Z-19 will fit when using the V6?

Thanks; no worries; I just came to my office and the PETG Z-19 rev1.6 is 75% done as we speak.
It's coming along very well, now.
I don't take it for granted, though, as now it has to print 10 mm straight up of "wires" for the fan grill...
The fan grill grew in size to allow replacing a 40x40x20 for the original 49x40x10 muffin fan. The question is: will the new, 10 mm taller wires print without breaking up or distorting?
Also, with 6 thin standing poles, his thing is also the world's toughest "hair" test; but so far I'm doing great in this department; almost no hairs at all, which surprises me given that PETG is infamous for its hairiness.
I'm starting to really like this material. The glossiness. The solidity. The cleaner snapping off of supports. And last but perhaps not least, the earthy smell of it as it prints.

Regarding your last question, let me say first I don't see why you would need an all metal for PETG. I bought the MicroSwiss all metal, used it, --or rather suffered it, for a month, and it now hangs as decoration, as I went back to the original hot end, which is doing just fine printing PETG. Having said that, I will look into the V6 and whether it fits or not, and I will post again with a reply.
I will also post my current Simplify3D fff file for PETG.

FFF file for PETG is uploaded.
Print at 85% and still good...
Looking into the V6 hot end I don't see how it would mount on a Creality. It does not have two holes for 3 mm screws; it has to be held from the round end at the top, as in the picture attached. (EDIT: Picture got turned into a Thing link...)
So, to use it, you have to design a whole receptacle, as in www.thingiverse.com/thing:2978287
How about the MicroSwiss all metal hot end for CR-10? It is made to replace the Creality hot end, fits in the same screws, same height, and I know it fits in the Z-19 because I designed the Z-19 to fit it.

E3D v6 Hot end assembly Creality Ender-2/3 CR-10 etc

Thank you very much for the frequent updates for rev 1.6! I keep refreshing the page to see the latest news :)

I printed out the rev 1.6 bracket for BLTouch to fit on an Ender 3... The screw holes line up, but the cutout for the roller screw doesn't (see attached photo)!

Thanks for the feedback. I will fix this right away. Much appreciated; I have not had the chance to try the brackets yet; I printed them and I painted them, but the printer has been busy non-stop, so the brackets have been sitting on my desk waiting for the test print of the new Z-19. as to try it all together at once. And by the way, disaster struck: I had my slow (33-hour) print of the Z-19 rev 1.6 in PETG coming at about 30% last night, and I went to sleep. This morning I rushed to check the progress, and found the printer dead. The computer was at the fresh boot log-in prompt, so obviously there was a blackout overnight. I'd start a new print now, but I'd better not... Thing is, this weekend there's supposed to be hydro work in this area, and there is no water right now, in fact. What I didn't realize was the danger that they might need to mess with the electrical grid; but now I do, in hindsight. I might start another print, for it to fail due to yet another blackout today, or tomorrow. So, I will wait until Monday to start a new print. I'll copy and paste this on the main page. The good news is that the print was coming out great so far. I'm almost tempted to release 1.6 without full confirmation; but nah... better not.

It sounds like you need to buy another printer or two!! ;-D

What size are the BLTouch mounting holes?
The BLTouch comes with nuts and bolts. The bolts are 2 mm wide, so the holes need to be at least 3 mm wide so they can slide in easy.

I snapped off the end of my bracket getting the bolt in (see photo) ;-)
I'm new to printing, so it may be my fault!

My fault; not yours. But this is good news for me; I was not comfortable with having the Z-19 at rev 1.7 and the brackets at rev 1.61; now I have a reason to upgrade the brackets to 1.7. Sorry, bad joke. I had absolutely no idea how big or small to make those holes. I'll fix it tonight. Thanks for the feedback.

Hi Dan,

A couple more things about the BLTouch bracket...

The X home switch is no longer triggered because the BLTouch bracket extends past the frame and hits the housing around the motor. I've attached a top-down photo to show this.

The BLTouch is too high when mounted. I've attached another photo which shows the BLTouch pin fully deployed and the hotend nozzle touching the bed.
If I'm reading the documentation right (see the "BLTouch CAD Dimension" section of https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f5a1c8_6f2b1ea5daf74a3c85967f2be7848cf0.pdf), the pin when stowed should be 3mm above the nozzle (with a tolerance of ±0.3mm).

I'm still using the 1.6 revsion on an Ender 3, but I don't believe the mounting holes or position has changed.

Appologies for not noticing before, but this is the first time I have turned the printer on since installing the bracket!
I hope I haven't ruined your version numbers ;-p

Thanks; I'm fixing it right now. Wish I had found this PDF when I was looking for mounting details. I found other documents doing a search in google image, but maybe they were outdated drawings. Huge discrepancy, by the way; it looks like I'm too high by a whopping... Does 4.84 mm seem right to you?

Ok, justuk, a new STL is up for the BLtouch bracket. The file is named "BracketBLTOUCH_rev1.7B.stl".
I did something creative, ahem, to resolve the problem of hitting the motor. By "creative" I mean risky,
unorthodox... You'll see. I hope it works. I shall wait for your confirmation before I announce the
new STL version.

It seems closer to 8mm to me (see attached photo). I don't have an accurate way of measuring the distance though :-(

All the BLTouch documentation is available from their web site: https://www.antclabs.com/bltouch
You might have found documentation for a discontinued model. If you look under the "BLTouch History" section on the above web site, there's four discontinued models!

Ahaha! It seems like a perfectly good fix to me, although I will loose 5mm of build area ;-)

As the BLTouch needs to be lower, it looks like it could be shifted 5mm to the right, and the 5mm removed from the left side of the bracket, so it is flush with the metal (which hits the z home switch). I've attached a photo.

The BLTouch tolerance of ±0.3mm worries me. This is miniscule! The Petsfang got around it by using a separately printed adjustable (up and down) bracket.

I need to disassemble and re-fit the stock or petsfang to be able to print anything (because of the z home switch problem). I'm not sure when I'll have time to do this!

If you don't have time to try it now, that's good; gives me a chance to fix it a little better.
I can probably push it to the right a little more, but probabl not 5 mm. Ah, wait; yes I can, as presumably you'd dismount the sensor before trying to remove the holding screws, so blocking access to that screw is a non-issue... Okay, I'll move it.
Vertically, let me do a bit more research. The problem is that I can adust the vertical position to the tip of MY MODEL of the hot end nozzle down to micron precision, but I'm not sure how accurate my model is. In fact, not all hot ends are the exact same length, not all nozzles are the exact same length, not all heat blocks are the exact same height, and not everybody screws-in the heat brake with 3-foot wrench; and probably just the play of the bracket around the two mounting screws is more than +/-0.3 mm; so, maybe I should make a collection of printable spacer gaskets in 0.2 mm thickness increments... Let me think about it.

Another note, I printed the new bracket on my other printer, and I'm still not triggering the X end stop reliably. It just needs a little more to actuate it.

Yeah, I'm aware of the situation. I'm going to move the sensor 5mm to the right so that it's flush with the edge of the bracket, which means it's going to block access to the mounting screw, but that shouldn't be an issue, since presumably nobody is going to try to dismount the Z-19 with the level sensor attached, anyways.

One last note in case no one has said anything, the blank dummy filter worked great, it lines up exactly with the edge of the carriage and the X-endstop works again. Looking forward to the new file.

First off, thanks for all the hard work. :) I just started reassembling my Ender 3 with your mod.

Any more revisions on this one by chance? I printed the original bracket before I saw the threads, and I just drilled the holes to the right sizes. Covering the back plate screws shouldn't matter since we can remove the sensor beforehand.

Thanks for the interest. I haven't been working on this the past few days. Confession: I downloaded MuseScore, a free app for music writing, and this is what I've been working on 14 hours a day or so for the past week:
And tonight is my movie and gym night.
I'll try to make the new revision tomorrow night.

Guys, sorry for the delay; I just uploaded revision 1.7C of the BLtouch bracket. I haven't tried printing it yet.
I moved the BLtouch to the right by 3.8714 mm; not 5; and still is crashed against the Z-19.
I had to boolean subtract the Z-19 from the bracket, which means it will be a tight fit.
Looks like a chunk is missing, you'll see. It should work though.
I did not move it down; it would crash against the Z-19 even harder if I did that. What I did is pack a number
of printable spacing gaskets in fibbonacci thickness increments. Combine to suit.

Also, I cut about a couple MM off the upper corner that sits under the Z-19. This lets me rotate this piece in and out without loosing the Z-19 at all, just the two screws and I can swap them in and out.

I had a friend take the STL files and merge them based on my measurements of the BLTouch. I did have to do some creative trimming on the Z-19 to get it to fit just right, as well as the bracket itself. Take a look, this gets you the height needed, and maybe you can edit this STL and the Z-19 itself to make them fit without trimming.

Ahhh, much appreciated. This is really going to help.
Version 1.8 is now imminent.
Looks like I can't escape taking a chunk out of the screw guide of the z-19; but it should be ok.

Printing this in Ziro Marble PLA using your gcode on my Ender 2. Just wanted to say how awesome this file is printing! I've imported your S3D .fff profile and will use this in future on all my prints. Thanks!

Glad to hear. Yes, the retraction, coasting and additional restart distance values work very well, and not just for PLA... I'm currently using PETG, and my PETG fff file necessarily has different temperatures and speeds from PLA's; but the retraction, restart and coasting numbers I keep the same as I have them for PLA. PETG is a notoriously "hairy" material, but so far most of the problems I'm having are problems of adhesion, rather than hairs.

Yeah, I'm printing the rev1.6 BL sensor brackets now for like the 15th time... 1/2 way through the printing, and this time it seems to be sticking to the build bed so far.... Knock on wood... But it took a thick raft, kapton tape and hair-spray to do it. This is why rev 1.6 official release is taking so long.

I'm dying to print this with the EZABL 12mm mount. This is by far the best design Iv'e seen yet. Fantastic work!!!

Thanks! No need to die, friend; I uploaded "revision 1.59" stl, which is really 1.6 but I haven't test-printed it yet. If you are adventurous, or just feeling lucky, go for it. You'll need to also print the brackets (all 4 come in one stl file, called "1.6_brackets.stl" or some such name I forget now; one of them is for the 12 mm EZABL). And you'll need longer mounting screws; 8x3 mm, I believe; not sure; they need to be 2 mm longer than the original mounting screws. Cheers!

Great piece of art! Congrats!
One question on the probe mount: is it for 18mm diameter probes? I may have missed it but couldn't find it. Do you have the offset-values at hand?


No, the probe mount that is built-in, as of revision 1.5 does not fit 18 mm probes, and even a 12 mm probe would be a hammer-fit. I did not have a probe, myself, when I designed the Z-19, so I pulled dimensions out of dreamland. Revision 1.6 will have a support for either 12 mm or 18 mm; I'm not sure yet. I have a 1.6 version that fits 12 mm, but was waiting for a sample probe from TH3D, but what they sent me is an 18 mm, which is a huge dinosaur, heavy as hell. I do not feel like supporting something so unnecessarily big. It offends my esthetic sensitivities. But I may have to because many people may already have 18 mm probes. I'll try to make up my mind on this soon.

I am not a fan of the heavy dinosaur, either, for the same reasons as you. I think it looks hideous and aesthetics matter to me. I'm looking at the BL Touch (a little large as well) or an optical solution that uses a very small sensor.

I have not yet printed the beautiful Z-19 (thank you for the FFF file by the way!) so this may be a non-starter, but I'm curious if you would be able to make the sensor mount an optional and modular add-on feature of the Z-19?

What you've done is amazing, being able to print something this elaborate in a single print and I know my idea is in conflict with your original intent. However, perhaps it would be acceptable to design a standardized mounting option on the Z-19 for separate sensor mounts? For example, I currently have no sensor, so I don't care to have an empty mount hanging off the Z-19. In the future, I may decide on any number of sensors, so it would be convenient if I could just print an optional mount to attach to the Z-19 in order to support the sensor I choose. This prevents me from having to print a replacement Z-19 just to support a sensor of a different size. This also allows the community to use Z-19 and create their own custom mounts for new sensors, lights, etc. Those custom mounts can be added as Remixes to your original design. Just ask that they only include the one file for their custom mount in your remix and they should refrain from reposting your entire project in their remix.


I indented to mention also that if you consider doing this, I don't believe the optional mount would need to be attached the Z-19 exclusively by screws. I was thinking more like a rail that the sensor mount could slide onto, with an optional set-screw to ensure it remains in place. The set screw may not be necessary, since these parts tend to slide together with quite a bit of interference anyway. It would just be a nice touch, IMO.

Okay, good idea. I don't understand the last part, the EDIT, though; but I'm thinking perhaps I could lift the base (the back) of the Z-19 by say 2 mm, around where the mounting screws are, so that the screws would go through the Z-19 and through whatever else you slide under (behind) the Z-19, such as an 18mm bracket, a 12mm bracket, or a BL-TOUCH bracket. Then, a flat 2mm piece could come standard with the Z-19 just to fill in that space when no other brackets are used. This will necessitate a change of screws, however; the original 4 mm screws won't be able to reach the threaded holes in the metal plate. 6mm screws will be needed.

Sounds like a good plan! Aesthetics can be retained and flexibility is maximized. Great evolution of the design!

Regarding my point that you didn't understand, I was talking about a sort of "tongue and groove" retainer for the optional mount, instead of screws. However, your idea is better since you're planning to leverage existing screws. Brilliant!

Also, thank you for the mention on the main page!

So, I uploaded a 1.6 preview stl called "1.59" for the intrepid. Haven't tried printing it myself yet.
The fan grill has grown to be able to fit a 20 mm thick muffin.
Now I'm tempted to make a version of the Z-19 (Z-20) to allow a 51x15 blower...
Thing is, the Z-X is a big project; it will probably take months rather than weeks...

Please make one! The problem is, that you can't get capacitive probes in less than 18mm. If you are using glass as the bed, inductive probes are not working anymore! So not even 12mm is an option.
Thanks for your great work again!

Ah, I see. Heck, maybe I could design 6 mm capacitive probes and become a millionaire!
Ok, I'll try.

Dan this thing is great. Appreciate the detail you put into the air movement and aesthetics! I cannot print from your gcode and the need to make a few minor tweaks made me finally decide to buy Simplify3D. Could you export a .factory file for us, so we have all of your exact settings in Simplify3D? That would save me a ton of time! Thank you.

Yes; sorry I took an unexpected 1 week vacation, and I only read email here at work; no internet at home; so I'm sorry I missed a couple of messages. Let me see if I can figure out how this buisiness of exporting factory files is done, and I'll be back. I will post this semi-reply for now, because Simplify is in my newer machine, so I have to move the network cable, and bad things can happen when you do. So, I'll post again when I have news.

That wasn't too difficult.
This fff file is the latest one I used myself, but I was printing with PLA Plus rather than regular PLA, and so the nozzle temperature is set to 225 first layer and then 220. I think that for PLA I'd be using 215 for first layer and 210 for the rest. So you may need to change that.
I do have a configuration for PLA, but it is not as up to date in tweaks as the PLA+ version.
Good move buying Simplify, by the way; you won't regret it.

And by the way, I have unrelated news; I came to work today to make my first experiments with PETG printing. I did not try to print the Z-19 with it... not yet... but I'm printing a small part for a product for my day job. I did a lot of reading about PETG settings and after a lot of conflicting advice I decided to use the same parameters in Simplify as I use for PLA except two: Temperature, and speed.
PETG likes it hot and slow.
My first print was going well first layer; but second layer was not sticking to the first. My temperatures were 235 for first layer and 225 from second layer onwards. Bed temp at 45. Speed at 40 mm/s.
So, I got rid of the second set point; leaving the whole print to print at 235 and problem solved.
No blobs, no strings, no barbs. Working beautifully. But it has one or two more hours to go, and I'm getting too sleepy to wait.

Just a quick question. When I printed using the .gcode file, I got small layer shift about the 2 hour mark of the print. I'm now about 6 hours and it looks to be doing ok, but one of the "built-in" supports in the center part broke because of it and resulted in some extra stringing, and globbing. Do you have any idea why the layer shift occurs? is it because it's too close to the sides of the built plate? I noticed someone who posted pictures on the builds tab said the same thing happened to them. Also, thank you for designing this!

Thank you for posting. I have no idea why a layer shift should occur, but I doubt it is the gcode that is causing it. If it were part of the gcode, it would have been reported a number of times already, and it would have happened to me, but I printed the Z-19 revision 1.5 twice, and all revisions in total some 20 or 30 times, without a layer shift. My first guess would be that something happened physically. like the glass shifting, or belt drive slipping, or something like that. Can you post a picture? Also, you say that someone reported a layer shift before, but I don't remember reading such a report. Can you tell me which post, by whom?
EDIT: I just did a search for "shift" and found nothing except your post and this one.
I'm about to post a new revision, by the way. Rev 1.6 will be modified to support the TH3D EZABL bed auto-leveling kit. But so, If there's a problem in the gcode, I would like to fix that also.

Amazing work and mind blowing documentation! I'm extremely impressed and even though I just printed a fang upgrade for my CR-10 S5 I'm seriously considering swapping it out for this one. My only hesitation is the lack of support for the BL Touch bed leveling sensor. I'm not sure the existing auto-level sensor holder is compatible. If you're considering making any future updates/improvements maybe making this a modular feature that bolts on, similar to the Petsfang Duct. Either way, great work here and I look forward to following your progress with this and the future Z-X project!

Thanks! Yes, I'm sorry for the lack of BL Touch support. BL Touch only touched my radar days after I was done with revision 1.5. I had a quick look at what it would take to support it, and dismissed the whole thing on aesthetic grounds, meaning, it would ruin the looks of the Z-19 to have a squarish bracket on the side. I also did not like BL Touch much as a solution; I thought a range sensor was a lot more refined and elegant than having what amounts to a push-button hanging up-side-down... :-)
Having said that, I don't even know whether the auto-leveling sensor support I have is compatible with anything, since I don't have auto-leveling in my machine. I was hoping to hear feedback from someone saying something along the lines of "It's too high", or "it's too low", or "the hole is too small", so I could fix it; but I got no feedback at all. So it remains a holder that I simply pulled off a dream cloud into existence.
And I'm not sure what to tell you regarding the Z-19 versus Petsfang. Probably you'll get more wind out of Petsfang. I give it a 55% chance, 45% to Z-19. On the one hand, the aerodynamics of most fangs out there are deplorable. On the other hand, having two 50 mm blowers probably overcomes some of the worst aerodynamics decisions. But the Z-X will blow all the others right out of the water, though...

I love your design. I am using e3d titan aero, but I want to just print your fang as it is beautiful. specially, the custom support design is gorgeous. I wish you make more designs whatever they would be.

Thanks! Yeah, I used to design space ships for an open source game, so I acquired skills in making features look extra purposeful ;-)
I could conceivably make a version to fit the Titan Aero. I went looking for it. You buy that and replace the printing assembly of a CR-10 with it, or how does it work? And, does it have a model cooling fan? I only see a fan for the hot end.

Dan, what are your simplify 3d settings that you use for PLA? I am still getting some stringing using my own settings but when I print the gcode that you provided for v1.3, I got little to no stinging using PLA. If you could upload the setting file for simplify it would be great!

I have no idea where Simplify stores the settings files.
The parameters I have are these:
(All distances are mm)

Nozzle Diameter: 0.4
Extrusion Multiplier: 1.0 (very important; don't mess with this)
Extrusion Width: 0.4 (default is 0.48; I have used 0.44; I don't notice a difference)
Retraction Distance: 5 (5.5 and you get heat brake clogs; 4.5 is not enough and you get strings)
Extra Restart Distance: 0.07 (This is calculated from the Coasting Distance below, i.e. 4.2, and from layer thickness and from Extrusion Width. Basically, 0.1 layer thickness * 0.4 width = 0.04 mm^2. The filament is 1.75 mm dia., which squared times pi over 4 = 2.405 mm^2. The ratio is 2.405/0.04 = 60.132. So, 1mm of filament = 60mm of extrusion. Now, coasting distance is in units of extrusion, while restart distance is in units of filament, so coasting distance of 4.2 works out to extra restart distance of 4.2/60.132 = 0.0698, or roughly 0.07)
Retraction Vertical Lift: 0.000 (If I knew how to modify the firmware I would make my machine re-interpret vertical lift to move up/down AS it moves horizontally, like a plane taking off/landing; then it would work like a charm; but the way vertical lift is implemented, going straight up, it puts a hair standing up that the nozzle hits when printing the next layer, and gets dirty; so for now the best setting here is zero)
Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s (that's all the Creality can do)
Coasting Distance: 4.2 (Very important, to let the pressure in the nozzle reduce before retraction begins)
Wipe Distance: 6

Hope it works for you.

Just a quick question regarding printing at 0.2, 0.3, etc. Would you adjust the coasting distance or the Extra restart distance to take into account the extra filament extruded? I can see a case for both. If 4.2 coast is enough to deal with the back pressure at 0.1 layer eight, 2.1 coast should do the same job at 0.2 layer height. However, printing at 0.2 means the filament is being fed in faster, so the back pressure might be more, in which case you need to keep the coast the same, and increase the extra restart distance to 0.14.
What is your experience with this? I'd be appy to experiment, but if you've already found the answer, I don't want to re-invent the wheel!
Ricky Walker

Yes. No, not the Coasting or Retract distances; just the Extra Restart distance. (Warning: I'm speaking all of this from theory and mental models; I'm not an expert at printing; I've only had a 3D printer since 4 months ago. I just think a lot...)
First, the retract distance is in units of raw filament distance for good reasons. Its purpose is to relieve compression of the material in the tube and nozzle, and it neither knows nor cares what the nozzle diameter, layer thickness, flow rate or any other parameters may be. It is a static distance that probably only depends on the length of the bowden tube and the material's elasticity, and once optimized it should not need to be adjusted ever again except when changing materials perhaps.
Second: Coasting distance, in my mind at least, is basically a "hack" to fix the universally poor implementation of retraction that every slicer coder apparently adheres to. A proper retraction implementation would (should) have the following features:
a) Retraction should begin at a time before the end of extrusion, calculated such that about 75% of the retraction motion has occurred by the time the extrusion is finished. (The 75% is gut-feeling established, but could be calculated and/or experimented with.)
b) Printing speed should slow down linearly from 100% to 25% of normal speed in the fraction of a second that the 75% of retraction occurs, to account for the slow down of extrusion that results from the decrease in nozzle pressure.
c) During the last 25% of the retraction, printing should move backwards, depositing the last bit of material on top of what it just printed (AKA the "wipe motion".)
d) Once retraction is finished, printing should move forward again to the end of the extrusion run, then begin a flight to the new printing zone while gradually moving up a fraction of a mm in Z, like a plane taking off. (There should never be a straight up Z motion under any circumstances, during printing.)
e) As the nozzle approaches the new extrusion zone, it should start moving down in Z, so as to "land the plane" at the right spot.
f) The UN-retraction (Restart) motion should begin at such time before the starting the new extrusion as to be 25% done by the time the nozzle lands.
g) Printing speed should begin at 25% of normal speed, and accelerate linearly to 100% as the UN-retraction motion is completed.
But of course, I'm dreaming in Technicolor. The standard implementation of retraction is apathetically mediocre.
But so, they give you a hack to try and fix it yourself, somehow... the Coasting Distance. Rejoice!
The Coasting Distance is a way to sort of get a retraction started early, the way it should be, kind of.
And what's the right amount of Coasting Distance?
The true right amount would probably be in the order of INCHES; not mm. But there is a problem with that: Small
features will simply not be printed. The "wires" in the Z-19, for example, would simply disappear with a long coast.
(Not because they could not be printed fully with residual pressure in the nozzle, but because the stupid slicer software would take them out of
the extrusion list, no thanks.)
So, I've settled for now on 4.2 mm, and I don't think this needs to vary at all as a function of layer thickness, or anything else. But I have not experimented much yet. I've tried less, but not much more. So, feel free to experiment.
Third: Extra Restart distance, now, this DEFINITELY needs to vary as a function of layer thickness. Because the extra distance is to compensate for the loss of material in the nozzle as we printed without extruding during coasting; so now we need to pump extra material into the nozzle to compensate. And how much we need to pump is easy to calculate. The slicer software has ALL OF THE INFO it needs to calculate it, but it doesn't; it wants you to smoke your calculator.
So here it goes:
Total material loss in the nozzle = Coasting Distance times extrusion width times layer thickness, Figure in cubic millimeters.
Now divide that by filament cross section; and voila!, that's the exact Extra Restart distance.
For 1.75 mm filament, cross section is pid^2/4 = 3.141592 1.75 * 1.75 / 4 = 2.4052818754046854481979613403234 mm^2.

I'm going to give these settings a go, I just got my Creality CR-10 Mini a week ago, and I've noticed a lot of "hair" on 0.1 prints. My previous printer has a direct drive extruder, not a bowden drive so I knew I'd have to mess with the retract settings, these settings will help me from having to start from scratch, thanks for posting :-)
I've just printed and installed the Z-19, looking forward to seeing the nozzle better as it prints :-)
Brilliant looking design, was a doddle to install following your instruction, thanks so much for posting it here :-)

Thanks! Well, congratulations; you made it. Installation, I know, is a bit more difficult than I've made it out to be. Things that are too hard to explain..., like how to drop the 18 mm screws into the holes, with all those wires in the way; and how to drop the 4 mm support screw into the long tube without it turning itself along the way; so it does take a bit of patience and trial and error, specially the first time.

Thank you so much! I appreciate your time and detailed explanation of the settings! I am implementing the settings right now.

Hi is this usable with a Tevo Tornado ?

Short answer: I don't have a Tevo Tornado, so I don't know. However, I seem to remember seeing pictures of the hot end assembly of the Tornado looking very similar to that of the Creality machines; so, maybe... Now, to make it into a longer answer: If you send me a bunch of pictures of the Tornado printing assembly in various stages of disassembly and the dimensions of the locations of screws, I'll be happy to make a version that fits it.

Just printed this using your latest gcode. Looks great, but it has two issues. As you can see in pics, the fin broke off on the cooling fan intake. And the grill broke on the hotend cooling fan. It's still usable, just wanted to let you know.

Thanks for the feedback. I had the exact same fin in the top fan intake breaking on me on my last test print, and it was the reason I started work on a revision 1.5. I also thickened the main fan wires a bit more.
Right now I'm making a test print of my other project, the tolerance vernier and it will take a few more hours to finish; but I'll try to start a test print of Z-19 rev1.5 after that, before I go home. By tomorrow or Monday I should know whether I can post rev1.5 with reasonable confidence.

I would also suggest to increasing the size of the wires on the fan grill more or do 100% fill on them. Also, the holder for the bed leveling probe is still fragile as it popped off when cleaning out the hole. Maybe do 100% fill on it too since it will be supporting a probe and wiring.

Okay, good ideas. The rev1.5 work-in-progress already has thicker wires, but I'll see if I can thicken them even more. As far as them having in-fill, I'm not sure why they don't presently; that's a bit of a mystery to me; they were not intended to be hollow. It possibly has something to do with Simplify3D's "minimum extrusion length", which I adjusted down to the minimum it allows, but that minimum is 1 mm, which is probably less than the size of a wire's interios. I suspect the infill will start happening once I make them thick enough.
As far as the holder having 100% infill, I have no way of specifying infill % selectively. I think what I will do is go back to 100% infill for the whole model, which is how it used to be back when, up to rev1 or rev1.1; and was working well; I just succumbed to the temptation to try to speed up the print a little bit...
So, good ideas; it will all be part of 1.5; and it should be posted Monday, if the test print goes well at first shot.

A few other things, the vain on the bottom right side (looking at the back) hits the bolt for the lower wheel. Had to cut it off completely. Also, the holes for the hotend are to deep, had to remove so much material that there was no shoulder left inside the hole for the screw to sit on. The screws were flush with the heat sink when fully inserted. Could not get screws started at all. On the top cooling fan, tolerances are so tight that the fan blades are dragging on the venturi. I had to wedge a peice of plastic between the fan housing and the ventrii to allow the fan to run. Also as seen in the pic, there's a crack developed too.

Please don't take it wrong, It's a great design! I admire your tenacity and skill level on this design Thing. One last suggestion, instead of the original cooling fan, switch to the 5015 fan and move the wire holder so that it is centered on top.

I greatly appreciate your feedback. The more feedback I get, the sooner Perfection will arrive ;-) And you just saved me a ton of embarrassment, on two counts. I had all the files ready and was about to release revision 1.5, and now I know I need to do some more work on it. That wall hitting the screw is an old problem that's taken me too long to fully address. The problem is that I didn't have a problem with it, myself. I noticed a bit of difficulty getting the screws in, but I jiggled the Z-19 until they did, and didn't even look for what was pushing against what. When someone else reported the problem, around revision 1.0 or 1.1, I simply moved the wall by a mm. So now that you report that again, with a picture, I went to look and see what my printer looks like from that angle, and discovered that my wall was bent like 45 degrees from the screw pushing against it, but I never saw it. So, a mm was certainly not enough.
Next thing, the hot end screws. This I don't quite understand... I use the same screws that came with the CR-10S, and I installed the Z-19 many times, both with the original hot end and with the Micro Swiss All Metal hot end, with no problem. Well, they barely went into the threaded inserts, by about a mm, but they did. The only theory I can think of is that your machine was packaged with shorter hot end screws than mine. I know that when I went to buy screws to have for replacement, they did not have the same length screws. I bought 3x16mm and 3x20mm. I never even opened the boxes, though. The originals are 3x18mm. Can you confirm that's what you have?
I cannot make the screw-head guides any deeper; I need to leave some material for the screw to press against; so maybe I should recommend people to upgrade to 3x20mm screws, perhaps?
Next point, I honestly thought I had addressed and resolved the problem of the top fan grill hitting the blades. I think I'm just going to add your piece of plastic to the design, and make sure the problem doesn't recur. Darn...
Last point: I have plans for a bigger version of the Z19. It will be bigger than the Petfang mod, and I will make sure that the fans I recommend are all ultraquiet. I just saw today a post by someone complaining about the noise of the 5015's...
This future upgrade from the Z-19 will be called the Z-X.
The Z-19 itself will never support fans other than the stock ones, because I wanted it to be a plug and play, easy swap, without any cutting or soldering or drilling or sawing; so that's what it is.. --an entry level mod.

screw length is 3x18mm.

Okay, same as mine, so something very odd is happening. I just upgraded to Z-19 revision 1.45 on my machine, 2 hours ago, and I had no problem at all with the length of the hot end screws. Well, they are barely long enough, really; pushing them in through Z-19 and hot end they emerge by about 1 mm, but that's enough for me. I will add a note in the "materials needed" section that people might find it necessary to buy 3x20mm screws.
So, all of your concerns are now addressed, or at least partially addressed. I'm about to upload revision 1.5. I should give it a proper name, --the Spymaxx Signature model. :-) Thanks for all the valuable feedback.

Well then...I've never had anything named after me... I am honored...

I will check on the screw length and get back to you. I've got a print running for the next 4 hours...

I just print this in rev 1.3 (the first 1.3).
I found the new support really easy to remove.
The result is really really good, i already love this mod!

Glad to hear! I saw your make; what material are you using? I'm having trouble printing 1.3, myself; I just came to the office an hour ago and the printout of rev1.3 got too much stringing. I was doing better with the rev1.2 gcode parameters; I will investigate and issue a rev1.31 gcode file.

The material is Emotion Tech black PLA.
I use Cura 3.3.1 with default slicer.
I forgot to check the filter out tiny gap option and set Fill thin walls to nowhere, so the head make many move for just little dot, and continuously retract/push the filament. I think it's one of the issue in my parameters for striging.
Also, generaly i use the combing Mode travel to off, it's reduce random move everywhere on complex model and filament spreading. But for this case with combing mode at Off instead of All, the priting time estimation announce 6 more hours. Less move, more time, this option confused me.

Hmmm... If it's PLA, I think you'd have been better off using my gcode file than using Cura. I had all kinds of problems with Cura; then I moved to Slic3r and after weeks of tuning parameters with it and getting nowhere I went back to Cura, a newer version, and even with a much greater number of options I was still getting nowhere. Then one day I downloaded a Thing that had been sliced with Simplify 3D, and printing it I had no problem with adhesion, no problem with stringing, and it was so much easier to remove the supports, that I had to buy Simplify; and I will never go back. So I'm starting from having a much better slicer program, and I spent weeks optimizing parameters for the Z-19. Next time you print it, give my gcode a try.
Well, like I said, I do have a new stringing problem with rev1.3, but I'm uploading rev1.31 of the gcode, to fix that. It will be up in the next few minutes; but it is untested; --just started a test print, so it will take 14 hours to find out...

Try other slicer is on my todo list. Thanks for the advice.
I will try with your gcode next time and with less darkest material ^^

The design looks really cool and a lot neater than the petsfang.

Any plans on supporting 5050 fans for the top?

Thanks. I searched for "5050 fan" and all I can find is some fans that fit the Acer 5050.... If you can pass me a link to one I'll have a look. Having said that, I do have a plan to make a super-cool version of Z-19; it will probably be called "ZX", and I think it will have two centrifugal fans, left and right, for model cooling; and two stacked, counter-rotating muffin fans for the hot end. But this will be a separate Thing. My plan, for the Z-19, was, and remains, to be a super-easy upgrade --no cutting, drilling, soldering; use original screws -type of thing.
By the way, revision 1.3 is coming, probably today or tomorrow. It is test-printing as we speak...

Sorry, my bad. I meant 5015 fan. They are essentially just a bigger version of the stock fan. https://amzn.to/2HSTzZG

I like your idea about no extra stuff for upgrade. I have the petsfang still sitting on the table for this exact reason - no screws to mount it.
However, I just finished printing revision 1.2 and when removing the supports, I accidently broke it it multiple places and gave up. Perhaps Slic3r did go a bit overboard with supports...

If possible, could I see a picture of the supports generated by your slicer?

Slic3r is terrible at making supports. You'd be much better off using my gcode, prepared with Simplify3D, which makes the best supports of all slicers; and I highly optimized all parameters, on top of that. Also, I placed the model near the xy home, so that people with Enders or Minis can print using the same gcode.
I uploaded revision 1.3 yesterday, but I'm re-uploading in the next 5 minutes, slightly modified but still called 1.3, since yesterday's upload was explicitly preliminary. By the time you read this, it should be the right 1.3. Don't print 1.2 again; 1.3 is a lot better.
I'll check the fan link after I upload the official revision 1.3, thanks.

If you make a 5015 version I'll definitely give this design a try.
Thank you!

It won't be long. I just got fan samples delivered this morning. The two on the left are 5115's, the third one is a 40x40x20 that I want to use as the hotend cooling fan in this new (Z-X) Thing, and the fourth one is a 40x40x10 that I will immediately use to replace the one that came stock, as I already broke two of the fins in two separate accidents.

Thank you for responding!
I just postponed this project.
Please replay here when it's ready, but don't hurry :)

Well, I just got a contract, this morning, work I have to do in my spare time, in electronics. This will put some welcome money in my pocket, but will take time away from less lucrative projects, so I will probably not even start work on the Z-X for at least a month, I'm very sorry to say; --I was very keen on getting started on this. Oh well...

Don't worry. Do your thing, I'll wait.
I/we should be grateful to you for doing this.

Comments deleted.

Printed 1.1 with eSun PLA+ on my Ender3 and it came out good, nothing broke. However I did have to heat the top fan flow guard because it was squeezing on fan to tight and had to clip part of back wall on bottom because the bolt on Y axis plate is in way. other than that every thing study and strong.

Thanks for the feedback. I was aware of the last issue you mention but not of the guard squeezing the fan. I will add little spacers to push the guard away from the fan; or increase the guard's diameter. I will look into it.
That X axis lower wheel bolt being on the way, I'm fully aware of: Before revision 1.0 it was REALLY in the way; but by revision 1.0 I had managed to move the wall a bit away, and it became a "tight fit", --one that I should have mentioned in the instructions, and will add today.
It was not a "won't fit at all" for me, though; just had to push it a bit. So, I'm surprised you needed to do surgery on it. Perhaps the dimensions of the Ender3 are slightly different than those of the CR-10... That's another possibility. Also, the bolt head is hexagonal, and maybe in my machine it is turned to be more forgiving, while in yours a corner sticks right into the Z-19; that's also possible. What I will do is move that wall by one more mm away from the bolt, and post a new revision. And I will fix the top fan cover problem somehow.

Any update on rev 1.2? I want to make one, but not sure if I should wait or not.

Yeah, I got myself a bit distracted with my new project, the vernier; but that's printing right now, so I'll finish the Z-19 rev 1.2 changes right now, start a test print this evening, and upload it by Sunday at the latest. Thanks for the interest.

Will this fit my cr10 mini ??

Hmmm... Good question... I'm not sure what a mini looks like....
Let me go look for it and maybe I'll be able to answer. I'll be back...
I'm back.
Yes; I'm 95% sure it will work. Looks like the same mechanics
as CR-10 and Cr-10S; --just smaller table.
Should work.

Bravo! Congrats!
Great pictures too.
May I use them?
I'll stretch contrast, scale them down and add them to the Thing pics, if that's ok with you.

That’s fine by me. I can email you the originals if you like.

No, I downloaded them already, and they are plenty good enough
--for ruining them by down-scaling, anyways.. :-)

So this print finished and took right at 20 hours on the specified settings. I let the print cool down and cleaned it up. very clean print overall other than some areas I buggered up getting the supports off. I will be getting this installed next week sometime and will be sure to post more pictures of the installation process.

Cool! Gladdens me to see pics of it somewhere else in the world.
Good job of taking out the supports. There's a lot of them, for sure.
I notice one of the fan-grill "wires" broke off. Pity but no big deal.
I do see one worrisome feature in the Z-19_finished_2.jpg, though:
I think I see a little hair off the bottom of the ring in the main fan grill.
You want to make sure to trim those with an x-acto knife or cutter, or
they will hit the fan blades, and once you discover the problem you
have to basically take everything apart again to clean them off.

I cleaned it up good and got all that off. It’s running now and is great so far!

Great to hear! :-)

I just downloaded this and will be starting the print in about 30 minutes. I will let you know how it turns out!

Glad to hear. Must be almost finished printing by now, I suppose. I hope you read the instructions; it's very important to NOT allow the slicer to build supports on top of the model; ONLY from build bed; otherwise it will build supports inside the air ducts, which would then be impossible to remove.

Yes its about 14.5 hours in now. Should only have about 3 hours left. Looking good so far. This is my first print over 4 hours. I did read everything thoroughly before printing and made sure all the settings were right before printing. It looks pretty that's for sure! I may not have time today to get it cleaned up and installed but as soon as its done I will make sure to give feedback and post plenty of pictures of it as it comes off and cleaned up. Should be installed next week sometime.

That's exactly what it's supposed to look like when printing.
Looks good in yellow. Good job!