MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Petsfang Direct for E3D Titan Direct Extruder for Micro Swiss/ E3Dv6/ or Stock CR10 & Tevo Tornado hot ends

by dpetsel May 12, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

the 35mm screws that come with the bondtech wont work, you need 40mm

Is there a version that will work with the artillery sidewinder X1.
Thank you.

Hi, can u provide the exact measurement for BLtouch probe left and right mounts?


Any chance to get a dual 5015 version?

There is a new EZABL sensor kit which has the adjustment screw on the side instead of the top. Unfortunately this means that sensor mount covers up the adjustment screw (at least for the 18mm) model. I got mine to work by adjusting it, setting it back down in the mount and repeating this process till I felt it was close. If the sensor mount was adjusted so that it was closer to the bed surface it would probably work great.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

What should the rotation and supports be for MODULAR_E3D_DUCT_7.14?

I just tried it with it on its back (text facing up) and it had a lot of sagging on the ducts.

Hi would it be possible to have one that works on the ender 5.

Not sure you can call the V6 version Direct seems more like a hybrid than anything. Hoping the stock one will work with the v6 and titan true direct.

Instructions call for a M3x2mm for the E3DV6 mount to attach to the X Carriage. Is this accurate cause I can't seem to find a M3 screw that small anywhere.

i downloaded ender3 step files hitgub page and combine them with carriage metal it2 looks like 7.30mm hole and stock screws can fit or M3*6 will be ok, not tested actually yet here messurement from f360

im curios it too, maybe cut to 2mm M3 or no header screw something like that :

Hi, i printed this in PLA, and the STOCK TOP DIRECT 7.14 piece keeps melting after 2-3 prints....do i need to print this using a different material or perhaps something wrong with my motor, like its running too hot.

If it would not be too much of a hassle a dual 5015 would be awesome, Already have the dual petsfang with bowden setup and want to go direct

heya:) any chance to get a dual 5015 version of this? many thanks

hi i've a problem of constant under extrusion and i don't know what is the cause

hi could you in anyway get this setup to work on the ender 5

Do you have a direct drive solution planned for dual fans and a bondtech extruder?

Could we please have a dual fan 5015 duct

Hi, really great job!
Do you plan to provide the dual fan 5015 duct like on bowden solution?


Dear dpetsel, do you happen to have written down the offsets for ABL_LEFT_BLT_7.17 ? Thanks!

Hi! I am trying to print the CR-10 Stock base in the same orientation as it shows in the preview above so supports are only needed for the overhanging part on the side. However, when I slice it, the top 4 holes are printed mid air unless I add internal supports for them which will not able to be removed later.

What is the correct or recommended orientation for the slicer?

Flat face down is the best orientation. This video shows minimal supports from the bed. I have the slicer set to 80 degree overhang but you could set it to 70 degree overhang for more build plate supports if your current cooling mod can't print the extreme overhangs.


Hope that helps.


The video refers to the duct which I printed just fine (same orientation). My question is regarding the base (the one that attaches to the back plate and motor bracket)

All the bases should be printed in the upright (as installed) orientation. Not sure why your holes are printing in mid air. There is plenty of material and no extreme overhangs to worry about in these bases.
Which base are you referencing?
Can you send a screenshot of your sliced print in layer view?

Check the yellow line (bridging). They start being printed mid air..

Can you please made a modification on this file: STOCK_DIRECT_DUCT_7.18
to fit 5020 blower?
Thanks Thomas

What are the recommended retraction and speed with it (S3D)?

I use .8 mm retraction with 60mm/s speed.

Hi, is there a way to fit the stock part-cooling fan from a Ender 3 to this model?

The stock part cooling fan was just a little too anemic.

Hi, I'm just trying to see if I/you can adapt this for an Titan Direct/V6 on a Anycubic mega with i3 prusa X carriage. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2838383). The whole assembly needs to shift forward to fit the carriage. Any tips or files that would be best to use to make the change? Is there a Fusion360 file? thanks

Anycubic I3 Mega Prusa i3 X-Carriage Converter

We just engineered a new Aero Titan Duct system for the Prusa Mk3. It's called the Evolve.

Aero "Evolve" for Tevo Tornado,Flash/ Creality CR10,s,Ender3/ Prusa Mk3
by dpetsel

Just a heads up, there looks to be a modified titan design out there that beefs up the back plate by 3mm. This throws the alignment out.

e.g. AliExpress link to modified titan

I don't see where the mounting from the plate-out changes at all except for some internal reinforcement around the bearing. I read thru the entire data description several times and saw nothing about a 3mm increase in base width?

The offset does seem to come from that extra bearing reinforcement (I swear I see Tinkercad seams on the molded plastic). Clone differentiation might be the clear/opaque cover. I do see the reinforcement on other suppliers' pics.

I don't have one of the older styles on hand to verify just yet. Scale pictures included just in case.

Measure the edge of the plate and were the bowden adapter starts. That would be the important dimension for positioning..


From edge to bowden, 8.7mm via caliper

5.6 on an E3D. I'm not sure why they broke away from an industry standard? It would be confusing to adapt the design to fit all the different configurations of possible new extruders coming out. I think I'll stick with E3D and E3D clones.

No worries. Thanks for following up. This is just fair warning for any prospective modders on what to buy. It's not that hard on our end to shift it over anyways - just not as pretty with the fillets. ;)

P.S. Thanks for leaving clearance from the fan duct.

Hello, Love the work you do. recently into 3d printing, started with your bullseye on my cr10s now I'm in the process of converting to the direct drive mod and noticed that when I printed the fang it has a panel on the inside right fang, if looking at from the front the plastic after printing feels thing in that area and it has a pronounced line around it. What is the purpose of this panel? I at first thought it was a print issue, then I checked in s3d and its visible in the preview. Tried reslicing several times and it still appears. Just curious that's all.

Has anyone mounted this on mgn12 rails like the Am8 blv mod?

Comments deleted.

Beware of the flex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsFIRwio3wc

As a few people have mentioned, the current mounting plate is flexy and this video demonstrates it's having an effect. This is going to cause start of line blistering due to under extrusion while pressure is building and strings due to overextrusion when pressure releases.

It would be amazing to see this project allow derivatives so others can contribute to fixes like this. I will model my own fix, but I will be unable to share it with others. Please, for the sake of makers everywhere, stop being selfish and open this up to derivatives. You're making a cool extruder for a few printers, not the cure for cancer.

Does it mean this mod won't work with this titan clone? That the one I have.

This is only for the Titan extruder correct? Is there a modification of this to use the stock Creality extruder?

I'm not the author, but pretty familiar with the author's designs.

Answer is

Yes this particular thing is only for titan. Author has other petsfang designs for bondtech direct, and stock creality bowden. There is no modification by this author for stock creality extruder direct + Petsfang, but they're out there on thingiverse via other authors, w/o petsfang.


So I just ordered an Ender 3 and plan on installing this mod, along with a hot end/extruder upgrade. I already read that the E3D Titan Aero won't fit.

Which Hot End/Extruder upgrade would you recommend that will both yield the best results and fit this mod?

The Micro Swiss All Metal HotEnd kit , combination of the E3D Titan + Micro Swiss Upgradekit for E3D hotends are some of the options I'm looking at. Any help would be appreciated.


But with that base the v6 wont mount on the titan.... How is it direct?

Even with the direct setup and the Titan you have to use a length of Bowden. I consider it direct because there is only 16mm of Bowden tube that will not flex in it's orientation.

I dont think you have. The v6 mounts directly on the titan with out the need of any length of bowden. I thought some file.was.misssing lol. I want to use your design but i just wished there where no bowden to use.

Here is the documentation from E3D. Even direct attachment to the titan requires 16mm of bowden tube. It goes into the V6 and then into the throat of the titan. My version adds another 16mm of Bowden.

Didnt see that part of the manual

Yes, i already open the zip file but there is no such file or a titen direct v6 mount. I vê sent you a msg on Facebook as king for help

I extracted the file zip and all looked ok. Here is that base file and the corresponding duct file.

Im strugling to understand what to print for my ender 3. I want i install my titan extruder with my e3d v6 hot end. where is this file: MODULAR_E3DV6_DIRECT_BASE 7.17

It's in the zip file you downloaded or you can download it individually on "Things Files" area.

Hi, I printed this and put it together, thanks for the design! I like it a lot.

I ran into two issues with the EZABL_LEFT_MINI_7.17 file.

1) doesn't seem to fit on the left side when used with the stock hot end parts. The fang itself physically interferes, so either you put the mount on first, and the fang doesn't fit on, or you put the fang on first and the mount doesn't fit on.. It seems like if the mount wasn't so thick, it would fit. It seems like the mini mount is a filled inversion of the regular size mount.

2) the mount point is too high for the ezabl mini, and it's nowhere near the 1mm off nozzle needed for proper function.. Stock Creality nozzle. Take a look at the custom right-side mount another user made for me which is 1mm off nozzle and works, and how little thread the Ezabl mini has left. (pics attached).

I have to apologize. I updated those files on August 12th but forgot to upload them. They are up now. The offset for the mount is also listed in the filename.

Just closing the loop - printed the new files, fit perfectly as your standard of work is!


First off, your designs are so elegant and just work. This is my 3rd Petsfang variant for my CR-10S. First was for stock hotend, then E3D v6 with stock bowden, and now I'm adding the Titan to my E3D for direct!

My Titan (TH3D's version) should be here today, matched to an E3D v6 (genuine). I plan on using a slim (pancake) stepper, which looks to be the same one that TH3D sells (they're out of stock so picked it up on Amazon). I measure the shaft is 21mm from the top (top = where the screw holes are, not the little circular ridge under the shaft).

A question... you mention a "thin" mount for non-E3D pancake steppers, but I don't see any files listed that indicate the "thin" version for E3D v6. Is MODULAR_E3D_BASE_7.17 the correct one to print in my case?

Thanks for the kind comments. All of the mounts are "thin" now. The thick mount was for a special stepper that E3D sells with a longer drive shaft and no one seemed to use it so I removed it from the mix. I actually use the thin mount with the stock stepper and find it works really well. I had trouble with the pancake and setting my V-ref low enough on my board. I didn't like the heat the pancake still put out so I just use the stock steppers. The have more torque and never get hot. All the mounts now will work with either the stock stepper or the pancake.

I concur about the heat my original pancake put out.... wow, it got pretty darn hot! Since I wanted to keep the weight down on the X carriage, I ended up springing for the E3D slim stepper, which has a few advantages: 1) the longer shaft fits into the round bevel in the lid, so better geometry, 2) 0.9 degree steps, and 3) it barely gets warm, without touching the V-Refs.

Perfect, thanks for the quick response. Hitting the print button.

Also thanks for the feedback on the stepper. There were a few Amazon comments that mentioned similar experiences with heat. I will give it a try and keep an eye on it, and fall back to the standard stepper if it seems overly hot. Id prefer to keep the carriage light if possible, but also dont want to mess with Vrefs too much.

good job, it is possible to have the original file "MODULAR_E3DV6_BASE_7.17" to change the bindings for an XCR-BP6?
or while you make this change, you just have to go up each of the 10mm duck's mounting holes
thank you

Comments deleted.

The contribution you have made to the 3d community is absolutely amazing. I've printed and use your Bullseye fang. I have a V6 on the way, and I've already printed out the parts for that. When (not if) I upgrade to direct drive, I see you already have the designs for that done, ready and waiting. The fact that you support so many different printers continues to astound me. Thank you for all of the work you've done in the past and continue to do.

Thank you Copperbeagle,
Your comments are definitely appreciated.
It's been a fun ride.

So I ordered some PTFE to use with this setup, but accidentally ordered a 1.9mm ID and 4mm OD tube (similar to Capricorn XS diameter), actually meant for 2 into 1 adapters (I should have scrolled ALLLL the way to the bottom).

For people who have done this, any issue using this, or should I really be waiting and getting a 2.0mm ID / 4mm OD tube?

I have used XL and XS on my directs without any issue.
If you are using the TH3D Blue Hi-temp tube it is closer to XL inside diameter and will work well.

One or two things I've run across with MODULAR_E3DV6_BASE_7.17.

It is very flexible where the Titan mounts, please consider adding at least a gusset to the front like the one on the back or possibly 3 more with added gusseting on the Titan side as well. I probably will just cut down the bracket that came in the TH3D Studios kit to beef it up, rather than reprint.

The lower front hole that isn't in the part is needed also, though the flexing may be the only factor. I'll just drill one in my part.

I printed mine with MakerGeeks HTPLA, which may be a factor with the flex, I have nothing to compare it to.

But, thanks for all your hard work. Your parts are well thought out, with thoughtful extras, print well without a lot of fussing, and are simply my favorite improvement projects to date.

I'll try to address your concerns. Although another gusset would beef it up I'm not sure it is necessary. I have been running 4 machines with this mod hours a day and have not had an issue with the mounting plate flexing even with full sized stock steppers that I use. I will look at the gusset issue but I think you will find it is not needed. As far as the 4th screw goes. I had the 4th hole in the original design but found that people found it nearly impossible to get that screw in because of the way the Titan needs to slip down over the top of the short Bowden tube leaving no access to that screw hole. Since I was working with Bond Tech on a mod for their extruder they assured me 3 bolts where enough to hold the extruder in place. Since they are the standard for high end extruders I decided to leave the hole out to keep the confusion down and have it mount with 3 holes like the BMG extruder.

No worries. I added hole #4 and was able to assemble without issue, I'm good with it as-is. As for the gussets, I'll take your word for it being rigid enough. It may be my choice of material, infill, or just about anything else. It just seemed flexy with my part.

But, since I will be reprinting the main block as I discovered a small layer shift in the part, I will review and change my settings, infill specifically, and re-slice/reprint.

Thanks again for such a successful line of upgrades. They make my CR10 work so much better than when it was fully OEM.

Second pass is a much better print all-round. It's solid and does not exhibit the flex of the first try.

I drilled the fourth hole because I am obsessive like that, TWICE. Because I forgot about the offset of the lower right cover screw on the Titan. D'oh!

Thanks again!

Will the bulleye fang work with the direct drive mount ?

Porsche911 has a mount that will work with the Bullseye.

cr-10 direct extruder (with stock fan)

Hi, nice work!

Is it possible to print in PLA or do i need to use PETG?
Is the original stepper cable long enough?
And last but not least, i use the printed ptfe coupling on my extruder since the original failed, would that still work?

Tevo Tornado with a full metal micro swiss clone.

PLA will work. You will need to lengthen wires. Printed coupling should work since you have a solid piece of ptfe tube between the extruder and hot end.

Would it be possible to make a version of this that could use the Stock extruder gear setup and stepper motor from the cr-10? I've printed this out hoping it would work, but the alignment is off. Thanks

Does the heaterblock orientation matter much? I notice when oriented the way in your drawing it's awfully close to the carriage. If you wanna run a sock you really gotta smash it on which I imagine results in heat transfer of some sort.

It's a little snug but you can work it in there. Orientation is not real critical you just want to route the wires from the right side.

Silicone will not transfer heat. It's an insulator, almost no transfer.

Comments deleted.

Is anyone using the Petsfang Titan direct on a Creality Ender 3 with either the Micro Swiss or V6 hot end? My plan is to do this with a Micro Swiss hot end and a pancake stepper motor. I am just concerned that the Ender 3 may not be rigid enough for my planned setup.

For an Ender 3, are there any additional modifications (other than FW) that I should make to support the above?

My Ender3 loves the Titan Direct and I'm even using the stock stepper motor.


Thanks, Dave. I appreciate your comments and your Petsfangs. I am running a Petsfang under a bowden setup on my Ender 3, but will now be switching to a Titan direct setup.



is there any model so i can use my v6 hotend which is directly mounted to the extruder?

Sorry I don't. With this mod you'll need 20mm of Bowden tube

Thanks for the excellent work, as always, Dave!

What are people doing for wire restraint? I printed the right hand side wire restraint, and I was hopeful, but the wires hit the right upright on my CR10 when the printhead is at the far right (x ~ 280).

I'm working on a solution. Try this one. It should be close.

Thanks Dave. Printed and attached. You're right - it is close. Maybe an ever-so-slightly tighter bend and a twist upwards at the end would be good. Also, adding a point on the extruder/stepper wall to zip tie the wires to would be good too.
I drilled a small hole near the edge of the wall and tied the bundle to it. This way, instead of the wires coming straight out the back, they go up, making it easier to get them to arc over to the left while staying above the print head. It seems to be working well so far.

Any pics of your solution with the zip ties?

Sure, here's one. Note that the wire bundle doesn't actually touch the roller, just looks that way at this angle. You can see from this picture how I was saying it would work better (for me anyway) if the wire guide turned up at the end.

I had tried one like that but you end up loosing a lot of Z height.

Good point, but not really a problem for me. Having the wires come straight out the back, what are you doing to keep them from drooping on the bed? I was thinking about one of those retractable keychains, maybe...

I use another one of my other designs for the support of the cables. It works well.



Z Axis bar wire guide With optional LED LIGHT RAIL.. Take the wires off your Bowden tube. For CR10, Ender2&3,Tornado,Michelangelo and U10
by dpetsel

Thanks Dave - I like that solution better. :)

Could you tell me which accelaration and jerk settings you have for this?

I'm not sure Balder. I use S3D and I did not change from the default values. My test prints didn't have and ghosting or ringing so I left it at default, but I'm not sure what the default values are.

I was noticing the mounts for the Titan's motor is missing the 4th mounting hole. This hole is used to hold the motor and Titan frame in place while the rest of the extruder is assembled.

Just downloaded the files and the PDF files with what to print has the left side text cut off. This is in both the ZIP download, direct download and image files.

Since it uses the bowden adapter the 4th hole is not necessary, similar to the Bondtech or stock Tornado Titan.

One other question. I printed the bowden version before I found out about this one. I noticed the E3Dv6 40mm cap are almost identical. The bowden version seems to have an extra notch in one spot, but otherwise, looked the same. Can the one from the bowden version be used instead? Saves me printing another one.

They are close but not identical. The Direct version of the 40mm is required.

Thanks. And just to confirm, the E3Dv6 does not get mounted into the Titan itself.

Correct. It has about a 1 inch bowden tube in between.

hi David ,as usual your work is amazing,and if i have not done before ,i want to thank you for your time ,work and skill you put in these projects,as an avid user of your fangs i 'm finding that because of ambient temperature and the fang pushing air toward the nozzle and cooling it ,clogs are occurring more often,i know i can move the fang up or down , but as you know it can't go below the nozzle...so, i could be wrong ,but if i'm right would it be possible to have a fang where the air is blowing down on to the print and not toward the nozzle....as for the last two cooler months i'm actually printing without the fang and the prints are good, but i think when summer in Australia comes it will be a different story.....whatever you think and do, will always be ok with me...thank you again...Tony....

I uploaded new files last night. The position of the air from the duct doesn't change but the air captured around the heat sink is more exhausted to the side rather than down over the top of the uninsulated heat block.

where is it ...where is it ,poor me can't find it....lol

the E3Dv6_EZABL18mm_Thin_base6.28 sensor mount does not allow the ezable mini probe to hang down far enough to calibrate correctly. It needs to be down at least another 2mm to allow room for adjustment. currently even with the top washer removed i cannot get the probe within 1mm of the nozzle. It would be enven better if you could make the 12mm mount for the mini probe for the direct v6 mount

I've been working on the modular mounts for the direct. It has a Mini EZABL attachable mount at the TH3D Unified
Petsfang offset. They will be up tonight or tomorrow.

Hello there.
I was looking at this file as I need to print for my CR-10
But I wonddered if you are planing to or could make the petsfang files also work withe the Titan Aero with the ABL :-)

I have tried to fit the Aero with my engineered design but in it's current configuration the Aero will not fit. The Direct Titan Mod does use the same extruder and prints extremely well. I am using it on all my printers and print flex filament all the time.

David, on the lite bracket is that front mounting hole on the motor mount correct ? Dosn't line up with the motor

You don't use it. It was a reference hole that I never removed.

Ok cool just wanted to check

Could you please show an image where it is possible to see how the E3Dv6_BaseThin5.20 should be placed on the bed for printing. Thank you for your work.

I have printed all the prototypes sitting upright just as the sit by default in the slicer.

Was there ever a "thick" mount for the Volcano? 30mm screws are too short & 35mm screws are too long for the "thin" style, but the 35mm ones work great with the thick mount.

Thick mount was for the E3D extended shaft pancake. It has a drive shaft 7mm longer. Standard motor shafts did not work with it.

Thanks! the screws I had weren't quite the advertised length, so I've sorted my issue after sourcing the correct screws.

Hi there. Will this work with a E3d v6 clone?


I have a Tevo Tarantula with a E3D V6 with a E3D Titan Direct Extruder. Would any of these designs work with my setup?


Modular carriage for 40x20 rails (using 3 solid V wheels)
by _MSA_
E3D Titan Direct mount v2 with BLTouch and Fan mount

Hello, thanks for the design.

I have a problem with probe mount. You can see in photos.


Can you give me some dimensions on the Omron and I'll see what I can do?

I designed that around the long EZABL sensor but I pulled up the datasheet and will see if I can get some info to adapt the mount. I notice in your picture you printed the duct upright. All the Petsfangs need to be printed flat face down. There are some baffles in the top entry of the duct that can not print correctly printed in that orientation.

Not sure if it's just faulty calibration on my slicer, but the holes on the Volcano thin mount w/EZABL don't match up with my stock stepper motor for the extruder, specifically the lower right hole/corner, the other three match up just fine.

Edit: Edited my last edit, the screw hole on the Volcano thin mount doesn't line up to the holes on my stock stepper motor. It's roughly 2mm over from where it should be, it should be underneath the top hole but mine is off to the right.

I should remove that hole as it is not used. Only 3 screws thru to the stepper are used.

I noticed that the opening for the EZABL on TE_BaseEZABL_stock_MS_5.16.stl is smaller in diameter. Is it for the EZABL Mini and can I get one for the regular EZABL?

Also, what are the probe offsets?

I added a file for the large 18mm probe. Offset is x-55 y-15

I just installed everything and the EZABL sits at least 10mm above the nozzle when fully extended. I had to cut more than half the plastic away in order to get the nozzle within the 2mm from nozzle that TH3D suggests.

I downloaded the file as well and it all measures out fine. Attached is a pic.

Not sure the problem? The EZABL in my attached file is taken from measurements of the actual EZABL I have. Did they change something. All of mine fit fine? Can you post a picture of the entire front?

You are not doing anything wrong. After measuring several 18mm ABL's there was a difference in the threaded portions on a couple. I have adjusted all the EZABL files to position the mount 12mm lower to catch the threads easily on all these variants without having to modify them.
PS The files are up if you want to reprint it. They have a 6.28 suffix.

Fantastic! Thanks so much for your work!

Should i print the "TE_stock_MS_Duct5.21v2" without support ? how i can remove them otherwise...or supports have no influence on air flow and can i leave them?...sorry for all this questions))

You must print the duct front flat face down with supports from the build plate only. Any other orientation will fail.
Hope that answers it.

Thanks Dave!

There is also some installation info as well on my website at http://www.petsfang.com
It's a relatively easy straight forward install.

I promise you once I get this working and setup, I'll upload shots to the makes section and give you a shoutout Dave, really appreciate the work. Question, is this also something that could be setup on the Ender 2, or is this hotend-specific for the CR-10? I have kind of a mess of parts and I'm thinking I'll stick my Titan extruder/E3DV6 on the CR-10, while switching to my EZRstruder for the Ender 2 (But not sure if the EZRstruder can put out enough filament for the volcano?)

The Titan should work with the Ender 2 as it has the same back plate as the CR10 and the hot end lines up perfectly. The only downside is there is the ABL portion of this mod. Because the Ender 2 has a short X arm you have to work on the probing points to maximize the probing within the X travel limitations. For manual leveling (which is what I use on the CR10, Tornado and Ender3) it should work great.
I now use this mod on all my machines and absolutely love it.
Hope that helps,

If it’s not too much to ask, can you make a Bondtech BMG direct drive mod with E3Dv6 and BLTouch? Thanks!

Any updates on this? Hoping to use Bondtech + E3D Volcano on my CR-10S5. Thank you!!

Petsfang Bowden Direct with Bondtech BMG for CR10/S/4, Ender3 and Tevo Tornado
by dpetsel

I actually have it done. Just working with Bond Tech to finalize everything.

Is the bondtech ready now? I'd like to try it as soon as possible. Thanks!

Waiting patiently for this one too! Will you have Bondtech + E3D Volcano?

Yay! Excited. I hope it will be a direct E3D to BMG setup. Add volcano options too. Thanks!

what should the infill be set at?

I set mine at 20% with 2mm walls or 5 lines.

ok, thanks.
Did you use supports?

Problème avec bl touch et e3dv6 le bl touche le plateau mes pas la buse bl trop long

Version of duct for stock blower? :D

This is an advanced mod. The increase in size of the plenum for the Titan Direct mod is outside of the range of the stock fans ability to put out enough positive pressure and would be very sub-standard cooling.
Sorry, I don't put out sub standard.


you , you ,you big D....

Bonjour j'ai imprimé version e3dv6 en ABS mes pas terrible niveau solidité moteur est il possible de modifier la version et de la faire en 2 partie une pour le e3dv6 et une pour monter le moteur extruder un comme la version standard mes pour e3dv6 ?
En tout cas super travail hâte de tester

I tried to google translate your message but it lost something in the translation. Could you message me instead with your request?

Comments deleted.

I have a CR10-4s, which one do I print out? The E3Dv6 version?

I printed out, and use your previous design, which looks awesome. But I would love to use the direct extrusion, mainly because the filament twists ( I do not have enough space to put the filament right next to the printer), and during cold nights, it actually breaks where it is twisting. So if I can get a direct line down from the crossbeam, straight down to the extruder, I can mitigate this risk. Well that's the plan :)

If you want to use your stock Creality hot end use the TE_ files if you want to use a E3Dd hot end use the E3D files.
Hope that helps.

Any chance you can extend the duct for a Volcano hotend?

Volcano files are up.

I put it all together on a CR-10S with volcano and the printer is bottoming out on the z-axis stepper brackets approx. 5mm before the nozzle is at the build plate (see photo).

Would I be able to mount a Titan Aero on this version?

I tried to fit the Aero but just won't work.

Noooooooooo... Im just crying :-(

Dude, dood, so sorry. The Titan does a great job though.

Fair enough. Thanks for your designs anyway! I'm using a petsfang on an E3Dv6 and it's a huge improvement over the stock stuff.

Nice design! Can it mount stock extruder or mk8 metal extruder?

Yes. The stock extruder will fit you just have to open the mounting holes a bit.

The stock hot end mod is up.

I have a version for the stock and Micro Swiss hot end. I'm using it now for testing. I love it. I will be releasing it in a bit.

I think he means using the bowden extruder in direct drive posistion / config vs. the geared titan. Like raffosan's

Sorry i didn't get that. It will work with the stock extruder you just have to open the mounting holes up a bit.

Comments deleted.

another great job ....

witch CAD sofware do you use to design it ?