MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


MKS Gen L Adapter for Creality Ender-3

by reggaemanu May 11, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

thanks. so I wont be able to find an adapter, will I just have to print a new case then?

Yes to put it outside, or just buy an MKS gen L, it cost 15$ and it's the same thing as 1.4 with a smaller form factor

does this adapter also fit the 1.4 version?

No, they are not the same size.
And the 1.4 won't fit into the ender-3 tiny space, you need the Gen L

Thank you so much for this adapter!
It saved me a lot of hours of modeling.
I used it for my Ender-3 together with TMC2208.

I mentioned your adapter here in my electronics cover. :)

Ender-3 - electronics cover
by Zemistr

Thanks :)
I didn't change the cover myself as the heatsinks touch the aluminum cover plate so it may help dissipate the heat. I never had any issue with driver's heat on my ender-3 with stock cover mounted like that so I didn't search to modify it.
Anyway, really nice cover and cable management !! Good job !

I did replace all the fans because they were going to hell and I wanted to make the printer quiet.
Unfortunately, I was able to find only 12 V quiet Sunon fans.
So I needed to add a step-down converter and I needed to find some place for it. :D
Now I have there 2 fans, both are going on half speed and the quiet is amazing. :)

I just use all stock fans (excepted for the cooling part fan) but on 12V with step-down converter and they are silent and powerful enough :)
I just let all the stepdown converters make their own live loosely in the motherboard compartment (obviously I've isolated them before), I'm just laziest than you :D
i was one of the first to receive the ender-3 from pre-sale and I modified it right away so it's pretty old now but still works well :) I love this printer.

Hey is the air coming from the stock fan enough for the stepper drivers?

Thanks for the design. I am installing the same board in my ender 3 and have problems to use the USB port. This part of the picture is a bit dark, did you order an angled connector? Is it a micro-usb? My board has a USB type B, and all the matching connectors I have are way too long. Thinking about soldering another connector on the board to move it somewhere else.

Yes, you'll have to use an angled type b cable, there's no place for standard one.

Comments deleted.

reggaemanu - What made you decide to replace the board in the printer?

I wanted to use TMC2208 drivers for silence and add a filament sensor, some LEDs, etc...
You can't do anything with the stock board

Just a quick question here, I see on your picture that there are no wires coming our from your TMC2208 to your board for UART control. Is it not useful or just done in another way ?

I totally get that with the stock board. What made you land on the TMC2208s rather than the TMC2100? My understanding is that the TMC2100 is where people go for silent operation (short of TMC2130s)

I tried TMC2100 long time ago, but they have bugs (it's difficult to not have layer shift), TMC2208 just works :)

did you changed the tmc2100 from stock stealthchop to the faster spreadcycle and adjusted the Vref?

I don't remember about stealthchop or spreadcycle (it was more than a year ago) but yes of course i've adjusted vref.
Anyway that's not just me, that's common to see people having problems with chinese tmc2100 clones. TMC2208 are just plug and play and works fine so I won't bother with tmc2100.

perhaps that is the problem: i'm pretty sure you would know if you had soldered some pins/connectors at the tmc2100. they are on stealthchop by default and that isn't sufficient for 3d printing. you have to solder at least a wire on the top side or two connectors on the bottom to activate spreadcycle.

The thing is that I think (that has to be verified) the chinese v1.1 white pcb version is already in spreadcycle mode by default, there's nothing to solder. Anyway who cares when there's tmc2208 that are better at the same price as the tmc2100.

Sweet, thanks for the heads up!

Thanks for sharing this project!

Can you tell little more about this upgrade? Did you connect MKS to original display? What about SD reader?
Will be grate to see Configuration.h file

Yes, I used the original display as I don't need sd reader, but you can replace it by a standard reprap discount full graphics display to have the sd reader card on it.
The configuration.h file alone won't be that helpful I think as I use a bugfix version of marlin and reconfigured a lot of things also in configuration_adv.h, ramps_pins and some other files.
Anyway, you can find the full firmware here: http://dl.free.fr/fcBSoz8U9
You can find 2 videos of various mods I've done on my ender-3 on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrgp51_hcgF80Zdg9WJ0qNQ

Awesome! I like your mods!
You have one more subscriber :-)
My configuration is a bit different (TCM2130) and I don't have octoprint/rasspi yet so I need SD card reader.
I've already connected RepRapDisplay but probably I'll back to original display with addition SD slot or rassPi.

Consider switch to all metal hotend. I did it on my Ender-2 and I'm going to do the same on my Ender-3
Check this video - I have the same hotend for 8$ :-)

gRby - What as your experience been with the TCM2130s? Did you wire them in for fill SPI communication?

Thanks :)
I don't think an all metal hotend would change anything for me, I use a capricorn ptfe tube that can handle up to 350°C and that goes all the way to the nozzle. I never had any clog problem with the same setup on my cr-10 (I mostly print PLA, and some PETG or TPU but I guess I could even print some nylon or highter temp filament without problem.
(I have some full metal hotend just in case but never had the chance to put them on since it just works fine like that :) )