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D&D Dice Tray and Carrying Case

by Aethernex May 5, 2018
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Is the depth of the D&D logo different between the V1 and V2 models?

I love the rounded edges but in my print the depth of the logo was ~.6-.7 mm deep and the V1 had a depth of a ~1mm.

*This was on the Smaller_dice_tray version

Hi, new to printing and was wondering if your new, integrated magnet file is compatible with resin liquid resin printing, or if the pause only works with filament prints. Thanks!

To be completely honest, I don't know much about resin printing, as I have only used FDM. However, based on my understanding of the process, I would imagine you cannot do this with most resin printers. If you had one of the printers that prints right-side up, maybe it would work, but I think where most print upside-down this would cause issues. Also, the pausing aspect is printer specific in FDM too, as not all printers support that functionality, so it's possible not all (or any) resin printers have this functionality. Take this thought with a grain of salt though, where I don't really have much exposure.

That said, if you do try it, I'd love to hear your experiences!

Gotcha. I'll definitely look into it; I love the aesthetic. In the event that it can't be done, do happen to have the version with the magnet plugs still available?

Edit: Ah, never mind, I see that the older version is there. Cheers!

It might be a bit, but if you want the newer rounded corners design and such, but with the post print magnet slots/plugs, let me know. I can make a few changes and make that happen for you.

Good luck!

Point of advice for anyone making this: Print the vault pieces upside-down. This has a lot of upsides and no real downside. First, it makes it so that you're not printing a rounded edge against the bed, giving much smoother results on the curved border. Second, it lets you put the magnets in early in the print rather than late. If you have a metal print bed (like the MK3 for example), the magnets will stick down against the bed and you don't have to worry about gluing them in or them sticking to your printhead. The insides of the dice slots/mini area will be a little rough since they're relatively large bridges, but since you're lining them with foam anyway you won't see that.

I used an old Magic the Gathering playmat (~3mm neoprene) to line the inside of the tray, as well as on the bottom for a grippy, soft bottom. It worked well and is probably about as good of a material as you can get for the inside of the tray.

Probably a stupid question, but the magnets are just for the vault piece, of which there should be two correct? The main tray doesn't have any magnets right?

You are correct. You print two of the vault bits, each having 4 magnets in them. You'll want to be careful of the polarity to make sure they attract one another. There are no magnets in the tray.

First, let me thank you for this amazing design. I am printing this as a birthday gift for my wife and am quite excited!
If I may, I have one question for you.
I am new to 3d printing, having owned my Creality Ender 3 for about 3 months now. Do to the size of my print bed I had to print the tray at 97% size. My question is twofold:
How snug are the holes for the magnets? Will they still fit within the model?
If not, do you, or any of the other more experienced users on this great site, know if there is a way to reduce the outer dimensions of the vault (so it will fit into the 97% sized tray) without reducing the interior dimensions of the magnet holes or the dice and mini spaces.

I am using Ultramaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing on a Creality Ender 3, stock out of the box with the heated, removable bed upgrade. I am using Tianse 3d professional Printer Filament for my first attempt at this.

Unfortunately I am not quite confident enough to try adjusting for wooden filament just yet. I am looking forward to trying it after a successful build.

Thank you for any assistance and once again, thank you for adding to the community with this great design.


First, let me say thank you for the compliments!

For my particular printer, with the filament I use, the holes are extremely snug so they "snap" in and require no adhesives be used. Even dropping it by 3% would make the holes too small for the magnets listed. However, I see that an Ender 3 has a 200mm print bed, and my dice tray is 224mm. The walls are 7.5mm thick, so I could easily drop off 2.5mm from each wall (that way you get a 1mm leeway), which should preserve the design while also allowing it to fit on your bed without scaling. The files are attached to this thread, and I'll also post them in the Thing Files section.

In regard to the filament, if the Tianese you're going to use it PLA, you may be able to do the 97% print since PLA shrinks a bit when printed, so it may have just enough room for the magnets, but I can't be sure. On top of that, I've noticed when printing this model, since PLA shrinks, it is best to print with 3-4 walls/perimeters to mitigate an issue that occurs after the z-height is above the bottom of the tray/vault.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I'd love to know how this works out on your printer and how your wife likes the gift.

Thank you so much! I will try these prints and let you know how it works. I did try a vault using PLA filament and you were unfortunately correct. The magnets did not fit. I will try the smaller tray without a brim and see how it goes.

Thanks again.

Awesome, I look forward to hearing about it.

Hi There,

That's amazing design and I was looking to print it with new wooden filament. It seems to struggle on the dnd logo tho.

My question - what slicers have you been using to print those? I'm not sure if i should blame Cura for it, but it seems I'm suffering from high under extrusion near "logo" outer layers for dice tray. Looking at my calibration, last thing to blame is software.

I've used Slic3r PE and Simplify3D to slice these, but never Cura. You may need to verify your perimeter speeds, or speeds and cooling as a whole. These composite filaments need to be printed slower, and are abrasive, so make sure you're using an abrasion resistant nozzle and appropriate speeds. Let me know if that helps at all.

I cannot access the magnet link. What is the diameter and height of those?

I apologize, I must've missed this comment. I did list this in my initial post. Thanks to coombsy14 for following through.

TLDR; 8mmx3mm

I got that exact pack from Home Depot because I wasn't sure of the metric (which is more easily found online. The package said it's 8mmx3mm circular magnets (diameterxheight).

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Hey, thanks for the comment and print! Do you have a link to the black and green dice? Those look nice!

Out of curiosity, did you have some issues with the magnets? Your photos show the magnets as visible, but they should be inside the print. Or did you alter the file?

Those are the Ingress dice I got for my birthday.
I honestly added the magnets as an afterthought. The print is super tight, and I only really needed them to help pull the bottom part out with the top. I'll keep this one as my "prototype" for myself. I'll make another one for a gift with the magnets in the proper spots..

Makes sense. It seems to depend greatly on your slicer settings, I designed the models with my Prusa MK3's tolerances in mind. Let me know if you see any issues though and I can adjust accordingly.

Thanks for taking the time to share!

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Hi just wondering what was the thickness of the cork you used.

I believe it's around 5mm thick.

Thanks, just putting together an order for materials. It print is going to be my next project.

Alright, so I've uploaded the entirely new design here. Also, just to make things a bit simpler for you, here's a link to the exact cork I used:

And the felt:

I actually have a completely new version of this since I got better at modeling... I'll post it momentarily.

Oh great. Looking forward to checking it out

Hi there, I was wondering if you have the raw file for dice tray without the DnD symbol? I'd love to remix and inscribe my character name.

Hey, I am completely new to 3d printing and do not understand where to pause, I looked at the file but I cant see the magnet holes. (I don't have my printer yet...) Is this something you do on the printer? or am I missing something.

Also, how much material does this use to make? Don't want to end up with too little material.

Hey krnzmaster, welcome to the club!

The magnet holes on one of the models is in the side of them, which you plug with the plugs. However, one of the files has the holes completely internal to the print, which is why it requires pausing. You'd have to inspect the internal structure of the model to see them.

In regard to pausing, you configure this in your slicer, or by manually editing your gcode file. For instance, with this model, printed at 150um, you pause the job at the 20.9mm layer. This would be the first layer that covers the magnet holes, so this would be the last chance to insert magnets, as the holes would then be covered. Prusa's ColorPrint website is also a great help, depending on your printer, but it supports most modern printers. In case you're not sure yours is supported, what you need to verify is if it supports an M600 command. Here is the link:

The amount of material entirely depends on your slicer settings. Your slicer should be able to estimate the amount of filament when you slice the files. I think my normal settings are around 60-90 meters of wood filament.

Thanks! I appreciate the write up, it has given me a much better understanding of what to expect. I would rather have the internal magnets since the look of it is super nice. I got the Prusa i3 mk3 printer so the same as the one you used.

So Prusa's ColorPrint will help me in the process of stopping the print to add the magnets? and how much filament is that in weight? All the ones I see show weight and not length.

Thanks again!

Yes, ColorPrint will definitely allow you to do that, or you can use PrusaControl, which is one of Prusa's silcers that they offer. This has that functionality built in. For now, that application is very simplistic, but Josef himself says he'll be baking all the advanced functionality of Slic3r into PrusaControl and making that the default slicer for his printers.

As far as how much filament is in that weight depends on the filament you use. I use Colorfabb's woodfill which ships in 0.6kg spools, but it has the same length as other woodfill at 1kg. It all comes down to the density of the filament you're using. Most quality filament brands list the length of filament on their site for each weight. Generally, with PLA, you get about 300 meters our of a 1kg spool. However, that is not always the case. And of course if you use composite stuff like woodfill, corkfill, bronzefill, etc... your weights will vary.

Okay great, and that makes a lot of sense. I didn't really consider the weight of the material. I'm glad that it doesn't take a majority of a spool to make one of these! haha.

Yeah, it's kinda annoying that they sell based on weight, yet every slicer and printer measures length. I'd much prefer they use length, as it makes more sense... Anyway, if you have any other questions feel free to PM me.

Take care, and enjoy your printer when it arrives!

A friend of mine suggested the same "pause" thing for hidden magnets. I was worried that it would pull too hard even with superglue, does it not affect the print to have a magnet so close to the head? Awesome work on this, probably my favorite model on the site so far.

I actually included a few images to show that it prints perfectly fine and without issue, so long as you don't get any glue on the top layer. Just a tiny dab on the bottom of the magnet is plenty to keep the magnet in place. I usually use Gorilla Glue's Super Glue (the blue one) that comes with a brush and just brush a small layer on the bottom of the magnet and snap it in with my fingers. These holes for the magnets are barely large enough, so there is a little friction holding them in too. By the time I finish getting all 4 in and resume the print they've cured enough that they do not move at all while being printed over, and once a single layer is over them there is no concern.

I was very concerned with this too, considering that the Prusa uses a PINDA probe that reads magnetic fields for leveling, but I noticed no ill effects and everything printed perfectly. I haven't tried a wood print yet, but I have 6 orders in queue that I'm working through and will be testing with that shortly. I can't imagine it'll be any different.

Thanks for the compliment. It means a lot considering this is my first model I've ever made, let alone first publicly posted one, so I really appreciate that. :D

Wow, what type of filament did you use? that's the most I've seen a print look like real wood before.

I used Colorfabb's Woodfill: It's a bit more expensive than the Hatchbox, but is far and away superior in every way. It prints better and sands and stains just like real wood. It also feels and smells just like wood, where the Hatchbox still feels and smells like plastic. When printing, it has a pleasant woody smell.

I made this. I ended up making the plugs even smaller, and instead of doubling up on the dice vaults I created one that was about 1/5 the height to put on top just as a cap. Because of that I made the tray shorter. So far so good!

I couldn't fit the plugs in so I scaled them down a little.
x -> 8mm(91.43%), y -> 6.7mm(95.76%)

Thanks for sharing this, it's awesome.

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Thanks for the comment. I will verify these settings and repost the file. These did work for me with my wood print though. What material and settings did you print with?

Also, I'm glad you like the Thing. Thanks for giving it a shot!

I printed it with PLA wood filament with 0.2mm layer. At 100% the plugs were visibly bigger than the holes.
Maybe the filament brand, I don't know.

You are entirely correct. I must've selected the wrong file when uploading. I have fixed this for future downloaders. Thanks for pointing this out.

I'd love to see your finished product if you have time to upload it to the "Made" section.


I'll upload some pictures when it's finished :)