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Modmike

Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Mount

by Modmike Apr 30, 2018
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Anyone have trouble clipping this to the Ender 3 pro? It seems like the indentations on the clamp part of the arms are too thin to fit on the QR code portion of the printer.

It should be noted this mount is not compatible with the TH3D EZABL leveling probe as the probe will hit the mount and be unable to activate the x-axis homing switch.
EDIT: Sorted by using a large drill bit to mill away a bit of material from the arm.

The Ender 5 motor cover is 180 degrees from the Ender 3. It fits perfectly, just facing the wrong direction. Would it be possible to reverse the attach point thicknesses?

Those who aren't still able to get the dimensions right. Use XY compensation/horizontal expansion setting in your slicer.
First measure how much off you are using calliper then put that number in the XY compensation.
Negative number shrinks or positive one enlarges.

I used Simplify 3D as my slicer. I will look into the issues with the PiCam 2.1 fitment. I haven't touched this in months due to my schedule but I will try to look at it tonight and give you the info you need.

Cura uses 0.4mm extrusion width (line width) for 0.4mm nozzle

Cura calculates number of extrusion to make a wall like this=
1 if magic_spiralize else max(1, round((wall_thickness - wall_line_width_0) / wall_line_width_x) + 1) if wall_thickness != 0 else 0"
Other slicers use Nozzle Size + 20% = 0.48mm for 40mm nozzle

Other slicers use Nozzle size + 20% of the nozzle size as extrusion width.

Designer of this has tuned it per his printer and it most likely won't work for you even if you get your flow rate and E steps 100% calibrated.

As you can see Cura rounds of the wall line count required as it can't lay a half sized line, what this means some width is either lost or gained due to rounding, making you part not fit.

Unless the designer of this model is using Cura and sharing what Extrusion width, Nozzle size, Layer width he used - don't bother printing this.

Most designers tune their design per their printer calibration, not opposite.

Don't get me wrong, let's say if you are under-extruding because of small E steps, you can increase flow/extrusion multiplier to achieve same extrusion width and quality even tho you settings are kinda wrong.

Same way, many settings in printer are tweaked by designers to match their model accuracy in real world.

You can get a print as good as the designer intended if you calibrate your flow/E steps and if the designer shares his Slicer profile and you use same configuration to print that model.

Printed it 5 times with fully calibrated printer with default cura profile even the housing won't fit with each other even tho they are extruded at the same time with same filament with same settings untill ofc i read the Cura source code.

Some designers build tolerance in their models to defeat these gotchas, but this model doesn't have that, so good luck with that.

Adding tolerances to your design is a dividing factor between novice and intermediate designers :)

^this

Don't try to design the AXMC Sniper Rifle of prints. Design an AK47 with looser tolerances that will accomplish the task you're intending while working every time.

I got the lid to fit at least by using a 5/8" spade bit as a knife to increase the space for the lid to slide in and also cleaning up the outside edge with an xacto. No clue if the camera module will fit inside though.

@Modmike What wall thickness should we use for printing this?
And how many walls in Slicer profile?
which slicer did you use?

I am using Cura and default wall thickness is 1mm and wall line count 2.

If possible, please attach your Cura printing profile here. Do you recommend any other configuration change?

Hey! If folks are acting all mad at you for you spending your time, effort and love for sharing 3D printing with strangers, tell them to fu$% off. They are losers and the only thing they are entitled to is to make this stuff themselves.

Thank you for sharing this and for your videos.

another regret. nothing fit properly, not even mount ender pro, pi cam v2 (( useless

Printed beautifully but V2 cam was a very tight fit, damaged the board during install :(

Case is great! v1 camera perfect fit. Used part of a zip tie till I get screws.

I have to say, this is well designed and fits my ender 3 perfectly with very tight tolerances, making the arm itself very sturdy.

I have spent considerable time dialling in calibration and getting my steps correct in the start up gcode (Still on stock firmware), so perhaps this is why.

One slight negative point from me is the hole that is used for clamping the bracket to the printer itself isn't deep enough to hold an M3x20 (Had to buy a pack of 100 minimum from a local store so would have been nice to reuse!). Easily rectified with a drill, But otherwise, perfect.

Thanks!

Just to share my experience, there is no doubt that I do not have the best calibrated Ender 3, however I personally have issues fixing the camera too (ended up with damaging board) . I found that the model has a better revision/remix for me (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294512) which I haven't experienced any issues with the same printer.

Thanks for sharing and inspiring others.

Ender 3 Camera Mount for Raspberry Pi Camera V2.1

Nobody have the right to criticize you for a design that you shared here for free.

The design is beautiful and for people who have a well calibraited printer I guess this is very good.

That is not my case though, my printer is not perfectly calibrated so this did not fit together for me. I ended up using a remix of this.

Thanks anyway, I tried despite all comments.

Hello
possible to have the source file?
I would like to adapt it to the camera logitech c270
thank you in advance

Thank you for the mount it fits together nice and snug. Some light taps with a hammer to assemble it then flip it over and tap it apart a couple of times and its good to go.

Checking this out now. I will be sure to come back with my unfounded, negative comments later...

Never said that and have flagged the comment as fraudulent.

All Ender 3s are great, you just need to calibrate. Proof is the 100s of people who have successfully printed the mount.

"My Design is not bad, your printers are"

Comments deleted.

Was hesitant after seeing some of the comments on this design. Upon printing I conclude I'd probably have given the case a tad more clearance, but I must say it was very satisfying how perfectly and tightly everything snapped together. Nice print.

I printed these and they did not fit together. Looking further, it looks like you did not design in any fit tolerance. I pulled the STL files into a cad program, and measured that where parts are supposed to fit together, there is no difference between the inner-most part and the outer-most part's measurement. This will not work; you cannot put a 50mm part into a 50mm hole - You need to design-in fit tolerances. ISO standards are available for mechanical engineers designing mechanical parts, if you want to look up detailed reference charts. Myself, I usually design-in a tolerance of 0.15mm for very tight fitting parts (press-fit, with no movement), and 0.3mm for parts that need to have more clearance but still be a nice fit (like screws passing through holes, or parts that slide into each other)

It's a valid point but there have been hundreds of makes and .15 will really make no difference in width as the head is typically .4. Height would make a difference. Most of the issues have been with rear clearance and I fixed that. Sliding the cover on and off 3 times gave me exactly the friction fit I was looking for.

I would venture that your fitment issues are more of a calibration issue with your particular filament. Check your printed parts sizes to see if they match. Measuring STLs does nothing if the parts do not match the specified sizes.

That being said, I do appreciate the tip and will make the adjustments next time I work on the model.

Updates:

Resized PiCam 2.1 lens hole to proper diameter and corrected bolt size error in description from M4 to M3

The "PiCam_2_Front_Housing.stl" (Last updated: 08-07-18) will not fit the official Raspberry Pi Camera V2.1.

The diameter of the lens hole as measured in the STL is about 6.1mm but the real-world diameter of the lens shroud is 7.22mm. No calibration will fix an issue with the model. It is possible to bore out the diameter using sandpaper or to increase the diameter of the hole in software before printing but you will still have an issue with getting the camera into the housing with the ribbon cable attached as further detailed.

With the cable attached, you must feed the cable through the slit before attempting to seat the module into the front housing. This causes the module to have to rotate into position about the cable slit which results in the camera not being able to line-up with the lens hole. The only way to get the module into position is by dropping it straight down into the front housing but that makes attaching the cable impossible. The fix for this would be to increase the opening of the slit for the ribbon cable (preferably done in software as widening a 0.8mm slit is tedious).

The "PiCam_2_Rear_Housing.stl" (Last updated: 08-22-18) is likely to have the mount feature break off if you remove this case more than a few times.

The fix for this would be to add reinforcement around the mount feature or to add ribs to allow the user to push the case off. The other option would be to relax the tolerances on mating slide feature but the friction is required to hole camera and front housing from falling (a huge design blunder). The design should be such that the front housing slides down onto the rear housing and not up!

The "Bracket_Style_2.stl" (Last updated: 08-06-18) will not fit M4 bolts and is likely to break when using M3 bolts.

The hole diameter as measured in the STL is about 2.7mm but the clearance hole diameter for an M4 is 4.5mm, M3 is 3.4mm and M2 is 2.4mm. I attempted to use an M3 bolt but ended up splitting the plastic when attempting to thread the hole. The fix for this would be to use M2 bolts or to redo the hole features and surrounding geometry in software.
.

As to your design "blunder" comment maybe you need to understand the design before you make comments. You cannot have it push up because the flex cable must be inserted first and the camera seated.

The reason I did this is to have a stop point for the housing, avoid a front seam for aesthetic reasons, and most importantly, avoid pinching or damaging the cable if the parts don't align properly.

I just checked my and you are right, I had moved the PiCam model and it only cut out the outside part of the lens.

As to your other complaints:

1) The rear housing needs to be slipped on and off 2 or 3 times to clean stringing or other artifacts before inserting the camera.

2) As to long term durability, well once it's in, it's in. You can certainly remove it but I can think of no use case where you would need to regularly remove it, especially for what the PiCam costs. I've taken the case apart many times during the initial design phase and never had a durability issue.

3) I purposely avoid using bolts unless absolutely necessary so that people can just print and go.

4) I will check where I specified an M4, but everyone so far seems to have deduced that an M3 was required and everyone, myself included, have easily threaded the M3. I suggest you recalibrate your extruder.

By the way, I get that you are frustrated but there is no need to be so patronizing and pedantic, especially for what you paid for it.

It's amazing how precisely this was designed. Thank you for sharing it!

I, like many others, was having issue getting the lid to close and open. I realized I had very slight warping which was preventing a good fit. I haven't resolved the issue, but was able to work around it by using a raft.

One comment - I think the bolts are M3 instead of M4 - at least that's what fit in mine. Thanks again

I fixed the 4mm error. Thank you for catching that.

It's amazing how precisely this was designed. Thank you for sharing it!

I, like many others, was having issue getting the lid to close and open. I realized I had very slight warping which was preventing a good fit. I haven't resolved the issue, but was able to work around it by using a raft.

One comment - I think the bolts are M3 instead of M4 - at least that's what fit in mine. Thanks again

Tank you for this great design and the side effects to my printing quality! :)

At first I struggled a lot with the tolerances on two prints. There was so much resistance when trying to close the case. And if closed, I couldn't open it.

That was the reason, why I took the time to calibrate my printer (extruder and extrusion multiplier). After doing this, the case is still a tight fit but after assembling and disassembling it a few times it sits perfect.

A nice sideeffect is that I learned some new things about my printer and the quality of my printed objects increased!

Went for my first build of this and I thought everything was perfect. BUT, I may have a different model pi cam (Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2-8). Seems the slit for the ribbon is too low. I'm going to fiddle with it and make sure I'm not mental, but if not I will have to raise that slit to the top 1/4 of the front piece. I'll update more after I try refitting tonight. BUT, otherwise the build seems great and I cannot wait to get everything (pi and octoprint) running with this!

Just wanted to say thank you for this! Fits perfectly and works wonderfully!

Thank you for the kind words. People are very quick to complain or criticize, which is why I appreciate you taking the time to comment.

Thank you for the kind words. People are very quick to complain or criticize, which is why I appreciate you taking the time to comment.

I am new to 3D printing and enjoying the technical aspects of it ... can i ask what CAD software you use for producing your designs ?
Thanks ... ian

I use and love Fusion 360. It's free for hobbyists.

They have a lot of updates and it's sometimes buggy but by and large it's a real pleasure to use. That being said, I learned on it and never used anything else.

Its a very neat looking design ... and very simple to mirror it ... but as you say, the forces and moments it has to resist are so minor that it probably doesnt make much of difference either way

Nice design, but bracket print needs to be mirrored ... the upstand is at the wrong side providing zero support moment-of-resistance ... it should be to the uderside

Changes made and model uploaded. I seem to have lost style 2 and will have to redo from scratch. Thank you for the suggestion.

I understand the idea but holds perfectly anyway. I will make change next time I revise.

Hi Modmike.

I love the design, but sadly I'm one of the people who have the trouble with tolerances.
In my opinion the main culprit is bowden extruder on Ender and fat corners resulting from that, especially on back piece (inside grooves).

Maybe you can share original part files, so I can compensate for that before going on to slicer?

BTW, did you print it on Ender? What slicer have you been using, and what settings if in CURA?
I can't manage to calibrate my printer to keep both outside and inside dimensions, the wall thickness is always a little too much.

I did print on an Ender but I am using a Panucatt Azteeg Mini WFi. Marlin 2.0, E3DV6, and metal extruder upgrade. Wall thickness is controlled by:

1) Properly calibrating your extruder so it puts out 100mm when you ask for 100mm. Change steps to adjust, plenty f online tutorials.
2) Adjust flow rate for PLA, typically 90% but can b lower.

After a couple of failures I have decided to check the dimensions in Fusion. I don't know about v2, but for v1 camera there are no tolerances whatsoever between front and back housing. If it fits, it means the printer is underextruding (?).

Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate the design. The engineering is so good that it simply does't need to be tight - you can have easy fit, and still gravity will keep everything in place. So why to make it hard?

I wish more people would include editable files for their models, in this case it would have easily saved the day :)

Those types of changes are easily made to .STL files in Fusion 360 (and many other applications but Fusion is what I know best). Open the file, right click the model, select Mesh to BRep. For any faces that you need to edit but are currently made up of many triangles (the nature of .stl files), simply select one of the triangles and hit delete. Fusion will repair the face back to a single face without all the triangles.Do this with any faces that need editing or will be altered by editing an adjoining face.

Now you can edit it just like any other model (with the exception of not having design history).

After a couple of failures (solely on my account!!) it finally worked. As it appeared, the tiny connector on the Pi v1.3 camera kept coming off when press-fitting the back plate to the front side (yes, it's a very tight fight...). But after recalibrating my Ender 3 as per Modmike's suggestion and adjusting the flow it worked like a charm whereas the backplate now slides on very easy; no press-fit needed anymore ;-). I printed it in PLA. My settings were 100% infill, 210 degrees C printing temperature, 60 degrees C print bed temperature, 5 mm retraction distance, 90% flow, speed 90mm/s.

Thanks Modmike!!!

Nice mount. It fits, but very tight. I could close it, but the camera was not working. I tried to open it to check the cable, but broke the camera (v1.3).

Great thingy!
Unfortunately I have a pi cam 2.1 so I needed this case instead:
https://3dgeeks.2b.work/pages/view-thing.html?id=2987719

Make sure you get the right one!

Tolerance is way, way too tight for the cover (picam 1). Printed at 0.15mm layers with an Ender 3 and it goes half way on then gets completely jammed. Can't move it at all in either direction.

Thought I fixed that. Where is jamming? The back cover or the legs that secure the board in place. Anyway you can send a picture? I will fix today if you can.

Seems like it might not have worked in that case. I've attached a picture to the original comment already.

The two legs of the front cover were catching slightly on the "inner" legs of the back cover, and with a bit more force they went together, but then got stuck half way and now won't budge at all.

I can't seem to open the picture, what format is it?

Try the one attached to this comment

Ok i will print one out now and figure out the issue.

Heads up, with copious amounts of filing on all mating surfaces I got it to slide together without too much resistance now, but there's another issue.

The tolerances for where the camera sits is also far too tight. It doesn't fit at all, even though that area was also filed down a little (I'll have to do some more). I also found out my printer was slightly under extruding yesterday so even with that it's too tight.

Images are below.

I printed one out and I get perfect fit but I think I know what the problem is. What slicer are you using?

Cura with default settings @ 0.15mm

Ok I figured out why you and a few others are having fitment problems and it has nothing to do with my model. I mistakenly I assumed that everybody calibrates their printers and that is clearly not the case. I will post a link to a tutorial and I suggest you follow it to the LETTER. It will vastly increase the quality and ACCURACY of your prints.

I couldn't really tell from the quality of the photos but it looks like you are over extruding, judging by the bulging layers. I just checked Cura's PLA defaults and it is at 100%. Depending on the printer or filament this is usually set to 90% for PLA.

This part has very small parts and tight tolerances. This becomes even more critical when interfacing with real world objects, such as the camera. If your flow rate is incorrect, you will push too much plastic and layers will be TOO FAT causing layers to bulge and make parts bigger than they should be.

Thats why they don't fit. I will reiterate, the one I printed is perfect. The first time I slide the cover on it is a bit tight. When I remove it and slide it back on, it is perfect.

I did notice a small cosmetic error on the front part that I will correct now but first I will put a link to the tutorial. Don't print until I advise you that the new part is up.

In the meantime, please calibrate you printer. What model printer do you have? In most cases the flow rate should be at 90%.

I've actually already followed that tutorial (I have the Ender 3) and it was underextruding by a fair margin, so not sure what the issue there is.

Not if you are using the Cura default settings. Check your flow rate by printing the hollow cube with 0 top and bottom layers and 2 perimeters. If your nozzle is set to .4 you should get a .8 wall thickness.

I know he says to use one but I like to use 2 or even 3 for more consistency and better averaging. Just remember that each perimeter = to the size of your nozzle.

Can you send me a higher res photo of your part form a little farther away, like maybe twice the distance you have now? It will help me diagnose.

I've actually filed/cut it down a lot to get it to fit, so probably not too helpful now. I'll tinker with the settings some more and try a reprint when I have some time.

I just uploaded the corrected front case part, it was 1mm too short on the lip and didn't fit flush. It didn't affect fitment, it was just ugly.

I wasn't but could if I can get accurate mechanical dimensions. Let me take a look and get back to you tomorrow.

hi, if i give you the accurate dimension you will make it for me? thanks

Rev 1.3 tapa trasera.

Tolerancias muy apretadas, rompió mi cámara.

What model camera and what was tight? The back plate? I had already relaxed tolerances, but will do again if needed.

Your printer is improperly calibrated, please see the revised description for help.

Comments deleted.

I broke the back plate while getting out of the bed, but that glued back together fine. My knockoff Pi Camera was a bit too tight so I cut off part of the opening for it to fit. I printed at .1mm layer height.
Otherwise I used a M3 screw and bolt and it worked fine for the hinge.
Overall, good print, just a bit fragile and a bit tight tolerances.

Make sure you printer is properly calibrated, please see revised intorduction description.

This has been a long running issue that I hope I finally solved. I updated the back plate for more clearance although I may have gone too far. Let me know how the new ones work. If there is a gap, let me know how much and I will readjust. I don't currently have a Picam 1.3 that I can use for testing.

Is there any chance that you could make another version with a longer arm? I am currently using your mount on my ender 3 but i feel the arm is a bit too short, i'd like to be able to see the nozzle.

Re-doing the triangle is a lot of work but I could extend the straight arm if you like. How much longer do you want it?

Hello, so you still planning km extending the arm? if it could be like 5 cm longer and angle it towards center that would be really great :D

Anybody have a timelapse of this mount in action so that I can see the camera angle?

There is a masking tape on my fan shroud because it was blowing air on my ABS parts so I cant make a time-lapse in the near future. Doing a huge print job for Voron 2.1

Comments deleted.

I found the camera housing unusable. I can't understand why you made it with such tight tolerances. It's just not necessary.

It was so tight it actually broke my picam, as I had to use so much force to slide the cover on, and the tolerances are so tight, I couldn't tell something was catching and the edge caught one of the components and broke it off the board. This was sliced with latest Cura.

Make sure you printer is properly calibrated, please see revised intorduction description.

I think I'm the same boat. I could fit my picam 1.3 in the box and tried to close the lid. Now the lid is 2/3 in but it won't move further. I can't close it fully and i can't remove the lid. It's kind of stuck there because of the friction. I think the rugosity of PLA is to blame. I don't know how I can get my picam back without breaking the case.

The design is great otherwise, maybe it could help if there was a very small gap between the grooves to account for manufacturing errors ?

I ran into this as well. What's happening is that the bottom of the board sometimes doesn't lay flat in the front housing so the rails on the back piece that are intended to hold the board in place actually catch on the bottom. I solved this by taking a hobby knife and slicing the corners of the rails off so they'd push the board down.

I fixed and uploaded a new version a few days ago. Please re-download the rear plate, print and let me know how it fits.

Ah, I think I downloaded the file just hours before you updated it :) I'm going to print the latest version of the back asap and I will tell how it went. Thanks again!

edit : so I've downloaded the new version and printed it. It's definitely much better, I had to sand down some parts a bit but it fits ok in the end. I think maybe it has to do with the fact that the front is printed horizontally and the back vertically so there can be some size/warping difference on each dimension.

First of all you are welcome for the free design.

Second, there are a ton of clone cameras with varying dimensions.

Third, I did upload a new version a few weeks ago.

Now if you are done berating me, maybe you could help the community by telling what camera you are using and where exactly it was overly tight so I can fix it.

It's a picam version 1.3. The cover is too tight over the housing. So it's very hard to put it together. The picam fits in (just, after a second print scaled @2%). But the gap between the cover the the picam is so small, if while you're struggling to fit it together the cam moves up at all, then it can catch the lid edge. I had to hammer / slide the lid on, even after I had filed some of the edges trying to make it fit. And that when the accident happened.

I just don't understand the design need to make cover / lid so tight for the housing. It could just lightly clip together couldn't it?

I totally get that you can't criticise free things, I was just grumpy at wasting half a day and wrecking my picam. ;-)

Make sure you printer is properly calibrated, please see revised intorduction description.

My printer works perfectly, thanks. Maybe just take better care when you design stuff and upload it to a public site where innocent users are going to try and use it?

Doubtful. Many people have successfully printed this and most experienced makers know why scaling things will not work. But hey, thanks for dumping on me when I was trying to help.

Had to modify the front housing in fusion360. I have a cheap imitation pi camera, so the dimensions are slightly different and the lens mounts on to the camera differently. However, this design is exactly what I was looking for.

By the way, I was thinking of making it longer or maybe make a 2nd longer version, my auto level sensor is in the way. What do you think?

It is tough to cover every variation, glad you were able to make it work. Thank you for the compliment.

Comments deleted.

I had to cut through the part on the right side (see pic) to provide more give not sure if it was suppose to be connected or not but works great.

Actually, is there a way we could Skype so I can guide you through it and see the fitment myself? I watched your video and every time I thought I could see the problem, the view was wrong.

I just saw your video, EXTREMELY helpful, thank you. The reason its not fitting is you need to insert the ribbon cable in the front housing slot first, then slide the camera in to fit. Would you mind doing a test for me? Remove the ribbon cable (pull the black tabs on the connector slightly out) then try and fit it in the form housing and send me a pic or video of the result.

You have it in upside down. Turn it 180 degrees and attach a pic to the comment.

If I put the other way up the lens doesn't match the hole.

Thats what I needed to know. I it an official PiCam 2.1 or a clone? Shouldn't matter, just curious. It's driving me crazy because I used the 3D model of the camera AND measurements from their site.

Let me work on it, I will try to do now but need to leave soon. Might have to wait until tomorrow morning. Thanks for helping me out with this.

No problem its an official 2.1 hay it helps me too ;)

Version is up.

Last video was perfect, exactly what I needed to know. And you are perfectly sane :-)

Mine printed perfectly with the gap, it might be your slicer settings. I did increase the gap a little in a newer version that I will upload soon. I wanted it to clamp a little tighter if I put a bolt.

Did you use the PiCam 2 housing? If so how did it fit?

Hey Modmike, thank you for this amazing mount! Loving it! Do you think there is a possibility to "move" the camera a few cm to the left? I have a touchscreen underneath it and its hard to reach when the printer is homed. Thanks again, I also uploaded a "make". :-)

Maybe. Can you upload me a pic of your setup from the front so I can get a better idea?

Is the touch screen for a RPI? I will be doing a series on the ultimate Ender 3 upgrades soon, it's quite ridiculous, including 32 bit controller
upgrade, E3DV6 hot end (using my custom mount), auto level, and a ton of other stuff.

Hey, I'll add some pictures below. And yes, that's a 3.5" Touchscreen attached to the RPi3B. Here's the thing I made for it including complete installation guide for Soft&Hardware at the bottom: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3030160 :-)

Ender 3 Touchscreen Case & Holder for Raspberry Pi
by Tronnic

How is this? You will need to use a 12mm M3 bolt to secure the arm. It was optional on the first model because the A-Frame gives the fidgety we need. In this version, bolting the spring arm gives up the strength we need. Try to use 6 or 7 shell layers to make sure the threads hold. The internal hole is M3 drill size, the spring arm one is larger so the bolt can turn freely.

I just printed your file and it works! :-) It's still a little in the way but much better then before, uploaded a make. I am currently printing a slightly modified version. I'll upload a pic once I'm done. Thanks a lot for your work! May I ask if I'm allowed to add the modified STL to my touchscreen project? Or add it to yours so I can reference anybody to your thing? If yes, shoot me a message and I'll send you the STL. Your licence doesn't allow me to share directly.

Yup, it works well. Gonna keep that. Thank you a lot <3

Welcome and nice work!

I just edited my comment to add more pictures and now it's flagged for moderation.

That happened to me once, too many edits. Why don't you create your own thingy? I will link to it.

I would break your licence.

Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Mount by Modmike is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license

Very astute of you!

I will specifically allow this instance on the link. I did IP contracts for a long time so no worries.

Added it to my thing. Thank you a lot :-) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3030160

Ender 3 Touchscreen Case & Holder for Raspberry Pi
by Tronnic

Added link and exemption. Let me know if all is satisfactory.

Amazing!! Thank you! <3

Comments deleted.

There were many mistakes in my PiCam 2 case because I forgot to unlink it from the PiCam 1 housing in Fusion 360.

I fixed the issue and uploaded the corrected files. Can someone let me know how it works?

Thanks!

Haha xP I thought the tight fit was because my printer wasn't calibrated. I still managed to cram my V2.1 into it. Problem is I will never ever get it out there. Hahaha :D (I printed it more then 2 days ago, so I still had the "old" version)

PiCam2 rear housing is 197x152x11. This can not be right?

Not sure where you got that. I measured in Fusion 360 and its 33mm X 28.13mm. Same for .stl.

I had several models on my S3D build plate and picked the wrong one to export. All fixed now.

Let me know how it fits if you are printing it. Thanks!

printing now. Will let you know if my PiCam2.1 fits :)

My PiCam2.1 is ~25.5mm wide, the inside of the front house is 25, so it does not fit without some adjustments :(

And the square hole for the camera lens needs to be 8.5mm

I will make adjustments now. Can you clarify the camera lens? Is it centered and does the box just need to be bigger?

Seems to be centered. These drawings should verify https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/camera/mechanical/rpi_MECH_Camera2_2p1.pdf
It says its 25mm, but for me its 25.3-4. The other measurments on the drawing seems to be right.

Everything was as specified on the mechanical drawings so I added .25 mm to the camera box (now 8.75mm square) and .5 to the PCB (now 25.5). Let me know how it fits if you are up to it. By the way, how well did the back cover slide on?

Also check your print measure meets to make sure your printer is printing the right size.

Comments deleted.

I had several models in S3D and it looks like I exported the wrong one. All cleaned up now.

Do you have model files you can post? I need to rework the bracket to provide greater clearance for a Titan Aero adapter I’m using.

Sorry but I don't release my models. That being said I would be happy to make the modification if you need me to. Do you need it farther out? Less angle?

Let me know and I will see what I can do.

I will see if I can find a 3D model of a picam 2.1 and make a version for it.

New Pi cam 2.1 case released. Please let me know if it fits.

I've made an alternative holder for v2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987719

Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Mount
by sn4k3

Works with pi cam 2.1 but need rework, i had to open the camera hole with a 10mm bit, 9mm would do too, but 8 won't, so i guess hole must be moved 2mm. Is not a matter of hole size, but the location is not the optional for cam 2, and flex cant' strech more so the cam can't be at required place

EDIT: Case is also wrong, PCB does not fit on the square hole, the cover does not close or slide in due PCB.
See:

Version 1: http://qqtrading.com.my/image/cache/catalog/Products/Raspberry/Camera/rpi-camera-c-waveshare-raspberry-pi-camera-module-v13-compatible-with-the-original-2-700x700-product_popup.jpg
Version 2: https://www.makerlab-electronics.com/my_uploads/2015/05/raspberry-pi-camera-v2-2.jpg

The plastic slider will touch components and if force can rip them out of pcb

Sorry about the delay, I was busy with another project. I just posted the PiCam 2.1 housing based on your comments and a Picam 2 model I found. Please let me know if it works.

Thanks!

I am assuming you have an Ender 3. I am currently using a 600MM and it is too long. The 457 should be perfect. I will be picking one up as soon as my local guy gets them.

Thanks, yes - Ender 3.

What length cable do you recommend I use for the Pi Cam? (Mounting my Pi on the outside of the extrusion on the bottom next to the control box)

Comments deleted.

Hi,thanks for your work,did also works on Ender 2 ?

It depends on how recent it is. At some point in early 2018 Creality started using a new molded plastic cover / mount for the X-Axis stepper motor. If you have the new style cover then yes it will work, if it's the old style flat acrylic one mounted with stand-offs, then no.

Fortunately there are several that will work with the old style on thingiverse, this is the link to the one that inspired this one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2516411

There are several to chose from, the one that I was inspired by is the 8th one in the picture gallery.

CR10 MULTI Camera Mount Z axis for Pi Cam Logitech c270 c310 c920 9000 CR-10

I just published the Auto-Level sensor mount:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2898859

Auto-Level Mounts for Ender 3, CR-10, Tevo, etc.
by Modmike

Good point! It clips to the stepper motor cover on the left side, in front of where the extruder is. I posted a quick pic, will replace with a better one later.

Thanks! That helped alot.
Everything fits very tight. The first mount broke while I tried to clip it on.

But I'm happy that I finally found something for the Ender-3. Thanks!

Same is necessary for the CR-10s. Didn't see this until I'd already fixed the other one with Velcro.

Don't understand how it could break unless there was an issue with the print and It's important to always hook the right side first to avoid over flexing the left arm.

In any case I am happy you enjoyed it and I have a bunch more coming:

1) Autolevel mount (should be ready in a few days)
2) E3DV6 mount with fang fan (nearly done but stuck on an issue)
3) Filament detector and guide
4) Ramps and Raspberry Pi enclosure that will replace metal box but hopefully look the same (this one will be the last one)

Also taking special requests.

Hey man, thanks for this design! I don't realy know where I should clip the mount in? Do you have a picture where I can mount this? Best Regards, Marstaw