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Shishi Odoshi "Deer Scarer" Japanese Water Fountain - Fully Working

by jelson Apr 29, 2018
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I first thought I would print it on ABS so that it may be a little better with water. I started printing the base on and after the first hour or two, I could see the base warping so I stopped. I ended up increasing the temperatures of the extruder and plate and it helped. Checked on it the next day and sometime overnight, the base warped again and everything was off. I then printed it on PLA and it was looking great, although the top layer looked a bit thin. When it was finished, filled it with water and leaked all over the place. I then slapped some bondo on the bottom of the pool area and that didn't help either. I added a coat of primer and paint last night but I have a feeling it's a losing battle here.

I checked my print settings and had .1mm for the layer height and 20% infill. I checked the comments here and they were saying to use a larger layer height. I have a feeling that it will get reprinted as it's a big mess and I may had went wrong with the layer height.

Well, I reprinted it at .3mm layer and 30% infill. It still leaks but not as bad. I ended up painting some flexpaint on it and just waiting for it to dry. I'm still not exactly sure how I'm going to seal up the tube part inside of the base though...

Awesome is all I can say. I will be trying it soon. Also in Portland.

I like it.. But i think it should be bigger and only fill up any minute or so.. Also it needs to sound a bit more like Bambus, thats what it makes so relexing in the japanese zen gardens.. The Sound is really not dull enough and to high pitched.

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
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Ok. So, I've assembled everything. My only issue is connecting the water pump to the power cord. After you strip the wires, what method did you use to connect them? Also, did you connect blue to red and brown to black? Thanks

I've had the same issue. Ordered the specified pump from Amazon, I assumed that it was DOA because after putting even 12v to it, it wouldn't move water. I bought another, from another manufacturer- it wouldn't take 5v either. I didn't think to reverse the polarity, because the wire colors are blue and brown as you said. Also, I measured orrect output voltage from my power supplie(s). I'll tinker more tomorrow.

Yup- this was the issue. Seems both pumps I received had blue as the negative, with brown being the positive. Now I'm trying to figure out how to reduce output from the pump. It puts so much water out, the catcher hardly even wants to reset, it just stays lowered, with water streaming over it (this is at 5v). I'm thinking I'll try reducing the voltage and maybe a small restriction in the pipe, but I'd prefer a PWM soution that would be less stressful on the pump motor.

Hi! I'm the original designer. I have a v2 fountain that comes with a circuit board that does PWM as you suggest. It also has a button on the front that you can push to turn the fountain on for 60 seconds. Once I get some free time I'll be uploading it and selling a controller kit (PCB plus components) on Amazon! I'll also publish the Gerbers if you want to make your own.

Awesome! That sounds cool. I'll reply back here with any progress I make as well. =)

By the way, I have a second version that comes with a little circuit board that controls the pump and a pushbutton on the front. When you push the button, it runs the pump for 60 seconds. I keep trying to find time to post the files.

Yep, blue connects to red, brown to black. Sorry for the ambiguity; I've updated the assembly instructions.

There are lots of ways to attach the wires together - a small wire nut will do, or if you're just testing to see if it works you could even just twist the wires together with your fingers and wrap them with electrical tape.

Thank you! That's what I did (twisted them together and wrapped in electrical tape) but the pump doesn't seem to be working. Back to the drawing table!

Oh no, I'm sorry to hear it isn't working! Here are a few things to try.

1) Put your hand on the pump; do you feel it vibrating? The pump is super quiet, and it's possible that it is actually running but you just can't hear it. Try adding water and see if it moves.

2) Check the data plate on the pump and make sure that blue is still positive and brown is still negative, maybe they changed it?

3) If you have a volt meter, measure the voltage between red and black to make sure it's at least 3.3v.

4) If you're using a 3.3v power supply, try a 5v power supply. 3.3v is right on the edge of the minimum the pump requires... maybe you have a pump that needs just a bit more voltage.

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How did you you keep the water Chanel that the tube goes into, that connects to the riser? I plan on using clear epoxy for the rest but can’t get into that U-Chanel

On my printer (a Prusa i3 mk3) the channel is water-tight right out of the printer. The only place that sealant is needed is at the interfaces where the flexible tube goes into the base and where the base attaches to the riser.

Awesome model, just made this converter since I failed the get the correct pump/tubing :)

Converter for Japanese Water Fountain tube
by benv666

That's a great accessory -- thank you for posting!

Which one? I tested them all and they seem alive, I think...

What is the best way to reduce flow? I tried using a 3.3 v but my pump only works with 5v on the low end. I was thinking about designing a small Cylinder with a small hole that could sit right in the tube on the outlet side. Kind of like a restrictor you find in shower heads. Any thoughts on that? Pinching the tube also seems to reduce flow but I’d like something a little more elegant.

FYI, my flow restrictor idea works great! I printed a cylinder 8.2mm OD, with a 2.8 ID, 3mm thick. It makes it cycle about every 7 seconds or so. I may do some more experimentation and see if I can slow it down a little further and I'll post a remix. I also made a small frame that goes around the entire fountain body.

Hope you don't mind - I've taken your flow restricter idea and made it into a tube connector with a 2.5mm ID. I've added it as a remix here - Flow restrictor, and credited you with the original idea.

It's working well on my fountain which is cycling around once every 7 seconds. It's easy to change the internal diameter in something like tinker cad if you want to try different sizes.

Flow restrictor

Nice job! Thanks for posting it. Unfortunately, I got side tracked with another project and forgot to put mine up. This one looks great though.

Oh wow, thanks! The restrictor is a great idea. I tinkered once with restricting the flow using a zip tie but didn't get very nice results.

My current iteration - which I haven't uploaded yet - uses a little custom printed circuit board I made with a little microcontroller on it. The microcontroller PWMs the motor down to the lowest speed I could get it before it stalled. It also makes the electrical connections mechanically easier since it has an onboard power jack and voltage regulator, meaning you can plug in a garden-variety wall wart of any voltage up to 15v. And finally, it supports a button on the front of the fountain; when you press it, the fountain runs for 60 sec and shuts down.

So I have a simple question. I bought the parts you listed from Amazon and assembled the entire thing but when I cut the wire on the 3 volt DC plug I saw black and red. Which is the hot and which is neutral? Broke my multi meter and haven’t gotten a new one. I am also very green with electric. Any help is appreciate. Also the print looks awesome and I cannot wait to use it. Great design

If you have a red and black wire, red is power (also called "hot", "positive", or "+") and black is ground (also called "neutral", "negative", or "-"). The pump for some reason uses non-standard colors, blue and brown; it should have a label on it telling you which is which. Glad you like the design, thank you!

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

Where did you get that cutting mat? I like the design

It's the Alvin GBM 1218

Actually to really fix the problem with the water falling out is by either extending the tub, or making a couple walls taller.

A remix put a cap over most of the tube, which is probably the right solution. I tried making the walls taller a few times, but the water splashes pretty vigorously - you'd need walls 10" high to really contain it I think

Nice! ,

I am thinking if you put the angle lower and lesser water flow. I think it will have a better result . and the water not supposes to split out.
I will Consider build one for my new house lol

Never knew what these were for but they've mesmerized me ever since that snow scene in Kill Bill... TIL :)

Printed it! very nice! 1 comment: the movement is somehow too quick. Have you tried moveing the balance point of the tube a little ahead, so the movement start with less amount of water so when enough water is there, the movement is already began . May be makeing the movement softer.

A or some soft springs at the pivot would slow the action down

Yeah, I agree it's too fast, and tinkered with various ways to slow it down but haven't found one I like just yet. Moving the CG forward didn't help; the tube just tipped sooner, and once off balance, tipped just as quickly. In some cases if the tube was too close to balanced, it wouldn't return to the initial position after the water dumped out; the tube just stayed down. I haven't had time yet but the best thing to try will be to add friction to the hinge by making it a tighter fit, or wrapping a few layers of tape around the axle.

I don't think springs will work, as they provide an opposing force, and most likely the tube would tilt to some position where the water load balances the spring force; then it'll never move again. This is a "bistable" device, so what you really want is something that is more like a zener diode: allows slow motion to the 'down' position, then doesn't release back to the "up" position until the water empties out.
EDIT: This gadget - a cabinet soft closer should work: https://www.amazon.com/Buffers-Silencer-Catches-Furniture-Hardware/dp/B07BXPRN77 It should be mounted under the front half of the tube, so it slows the tube as it falls, but does not restrict the speed with which the tube (when empty) rotates back up.

Sorry, I said "moving the CG forward" but I was confused. I really meant moveing the CG BACKWARD. I was looking at one of this nice thngs moveing in a japanese garden, and yes, it is like moveing the CG backwards, all the things needs less water to start moveing. May be less water also means that the movement starts earlier and with smaller amount of water moving the motion is softer?

How did you print the supply line, without supports in the tube? Or did you find a way to remove the support from the inside of the tube?

My Prusa i3 MK3 printed it without supports without any issue. There's only about a 1cm "bridge" created when closing the top of the supply tube, and it's supported from both sides so it's easier to print than an overhang. It held its shape fine while cooling.

Could I have the original cad files for this? I'm thinking of maybe remixing it to a circular pond shape and maybe add a lip to help with splash and a place to add some rocks.

Sure thing - I placed them at http://www.circlemud.org/jelson/japanese-fountain - enjoy! You need a pretty recent build of FreeCAD for them to work.

Some pictures, thanks for the idea!


Shishi odoshi table top gadget bamboo style

Very cool!! I love it.

Great design, going to start printing it now. How does the water supply line print without supports?

Thank you!

If you turn the water supply line upside-down (as in the STL I uploaded), most of the structure builds upwards, without the need for supports. The only exception is spanning the width of the tube itself for the span that goes horizontally - but that's only a span of about 8mm or so, with structure on both sides for support. At least on my printer (an i3 MK3) the plastic was easily suspended across the gap until it hardened.

looks modernistic , very squarish. not natural peaceful looking. would be great if you could do this.

This is true; I felt a little guilty making something out of sleek black plastic when the goal of gardens where such fountains are found are usually to bring you closer to nature. In some ways it seemed almost sacrilegious. But, it was a fun design challenge.

I dunno, I kind of like that aspect of it. I think this would be great in a small garden. Technology and nature working independently and together at the same time, seems very yin and yang.

It looks straight out of a modern sci-fi movie. Like something used to distract a xenomorph or something haha.

Yeah when I get around to making this I'm going to print it with a wood filament. The black isn't bad in my opinion but I don't like the glossy look.

I drilled a small hole in the PVC tube and inserted the water supply directly into the tube.
Very misterious because you don't see how the tube is filled and it is more quit and less messy on the desk.

That is very clever! I would love to see if you have photos of the modification working fully.

Nice design.
I think I am going to make this!!
Thanks for sharing.....

Thank you-- enjoy!

Could you make some similar thing but just like a fountain ?
That design is cool, kinda reminds me that game Monument Valley :)

This will definitely be a future project. PDX shoutout!

One of my favorite places to visit!

Looks really nice. Adding it to my list. But since I don't have any deer to scare away, a quieter version would be nice. :)

As for the people concerned with leaking, you can try painting the inside with something like Flex Seal (https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Rubber-Sealant-Coating/dp/B00CD9FGNW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1528771916&sr=8-5&keywords=flex+seal) and that should take care of any leaks.

I actually agree with you on the noise! Between that and the tiny splashes of water, I found it was impractical to leave the fountain running continuously on my desk. I designed a second variant that has a button on the front. When the button is pushed, the fountain runs for 60 seconds. That way it doesn't bother me on my desk but I can show it off to people who walk by.

In the next couple of days I'll upload the STL of the modified base and the Gerbers for the circuit board!

aka a tiny replica of the fountain in the final fight scene in Kill Bill vol I

i thought it wasnt water tight due to the layers

The plastic surface itself seems to be water-tight as long as the layers aren't too thin - in an early revision I did have a very thin wall that started to leak until I made it thicker. In the version I uploaded, the water leakage comes mainly from two places. First, the dynamic movement of the tube causes a few drops of water to splash out on each cycle. Second, if the holes where the tubes and pump enter the 3d-printed structures aren't well enough sealed with silicone sealant, they can leak. But water doesn't seem to leak through the 3d printed surface.

I can see it spill water all over the place lol

Haha, yeah, many of the revisions it went through were an attempt to keep the water contained. There are still a few drops that escape on each cycle - I am tinkering with adding a partial cap on the end of the tube to reduce splashing. It would probably also help to add friction to the hinge (e.g. wrapping the axle in a few layers of electrical tape) so the tube drops more slowly.

Love this, making it now!

Thanks, I'm glad you like it!! Interested to see your build :)

the link to the pump doesn't work for me, whats the name of it?

Try copying the link text and pasting it into your browser's navigation bar rather than clicking on the link - Thingiverse mangles Amazon links for some reason. The name is "Bluewo Ultra-quiet Mini 4.8W DC12V Micro Brushless Water Oil Pump Submersible".

Looks cool - and the pump (12v DC) works ok with a 3.3v PSU?

Thanks! The label on the pump says it works "between 5v and 12v". Even at 5V it pumps water too quickly for my taste so I've been running it at 3V. Much below 3V, the motor stalls; it might be better to run it off a 5V supply and restrict the water flow by putting a zip-tie around the vinyl tube (or something similar).