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CR-10 Mod - Y axis Tensioner

by Cornely_Cool Apr 19, 2018
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It needs some adaptation for my Cr-10s. (It needs t-nuts) Thanks, nice design.

Sorry, but what is preventing the body to slide in other 4 mm?

Screw holes on the body does not match with holes on the printed model. I bought Cr-10s in May.

So, “some adaptions” is add the t-nuts?...the original model is meant for be used with t-nuts... in older models of the CR-10, creality didn’t foresee the holes in the vslot, but directly the t-nuts, so the hardware used is the original one arrived on my machine.

I will write it also on the main page of the project, in order to clarify it.

If it is meant to be used t-nuts there isn't anything wrong. I thought I should have used original screws on the original holes in sigma body. It fits good with t-nuts. Thank you.

This is really beautiful model, and in the same time very funtional.

I used a bit of fine sandpaper on the sliding threaded part and if fit like a glove.

Really, really nice work. When i make stuff, it looks like shit but works... :)

Thanks for the nice words :-D

In first place, one thing has to work correctly!, the cosmetic issue is secondary...
The first models are always "rough", but you can fix the errors, smooth the edges and improve the solutions in the next versions!

I've just printed this for a CR-10s pro. Everything fits fine - but the holes for the stock screws were drilled and tapped in a slighly offset location from where your part seats. I don't think anything is wrong with your model - but rather where the stock tensioner mounting holes were drilled on my printer. I am going to use T-nuts instead - this should be fine, right? Since the belt tension will only be pulling toward the frame of the printer and never pushing away I don't foresee any problems with it.

Seeing this, I actually think the original part was supposed to use T-Nuts but they didn't on my printer. Bought from Creality direct. A bit odd, as the stock part was mounted at a slightly offset angle, where your part mounts flush and straight. Oh well, at least it's solved now.
Anyone who ends up with a CR-10 with the stock tension plate can just use T-Nut's. I've done a few test prints since, and they have not budged. Great design!
I printed in Orange Hatchbox PETG.

Hi, thanks for your feedback!
The answer is quite simple...the model has been designed on my cr-10, that probably is now a “old model” due to the fact that Creality made some upgrades during the time. In the “older” models, were used directly the t-nuts, no holes foreseen on the v-slot profiles.

Great design and print. Highly recommended. Using on a CR-10 Mini with no issues

nice troll with the bracket in the file name

took me a while to figure out that the CR10 can't read the file from the SD if the .gcode file name starts with a "["

the design itself is splendid.

Sorry, I've never noticed the issue with the Brackets in the name...(I normally use Octoprint, not the SD).


no hard feelings, dont have the pi / 24v set up yet, next thing coming up.
i chuckled when i figured it out. maybe adjust it in the archive so others don't run into the same wall
thanks again for the design

Love the design but I’m having lot of problems here.
How do I have to use it ?

2 things for sure :

  • wrong orientation of print (seems you print the scrwe un vertical, and should be horizontal)
  • seems the bearins are much wider than the opening (can you write here the measures of the actual bearings?)

my stock bearing is more than 1 cm

Ok, but maybe you have a cr-10 s4? With the belt of 10mm or something similar?

Hey!! Great design!
The knob and the screw fit perfectly together, but I can't seem to get the screw piece to slide into the main body. Its a super tight fit, getting stuck half way, and takes quite an effort to separate the two pieces. Is this suppose to happen?

Not sure if this is still an issue but for anyone else having size problems it is most likely due to a combination of the tolerance of the part and how accurately your printer is on all axis. A simple fix to this would be to slightly scale up the body or scale down the screw and cap in your slicer settings by a few percent until you get things perfect.

Hi, there is 0.1 mm of tolerance on the radius, so, yes, is a quite tight fit.
depending on the setup of the printer.
Just printed one 2 days ago, and for me was ok.

My wall thickness is set to 0.8mm, I'm not sure what I can do to make it so that it will fit better?

Plase, oost a pic of your pieces, just for have a look at it.

The 2 holes of the body dont fit on mi chassis. I have a CR10S
my holes go a little further back
EDIT: an be fixed with a nut actually

I don't really understand what you mean..., In my frame I don't have holes in that position, and the original bracket was kept in position by T-nuts, so The body kept the same OEM fixing hardware.

Mybe creality change a little the frames on newer models, and foreseen the holes you mean...

yes, in my model i dont have t-nuts.. i have holes...
but this problems fix with 2 t-nuts

nice work! and thanks for reply

yep, also I can see that the V-slot extruson is few mm longer than mine...

anyway, thanks for the feedback man!

Unfortunately it doesn't fit on my CR-10. My belt is too short to fit on your model.

Yep, sometimes happens...bad luck ☹️

Yes, I read about that. But it's still a great mod for nearly every CR-10. Nicely done. ;-)

Yes, I read about that. But it's still a great mod for nearly every CR-10. Nicely done. ;-)

Thank you for source files, you are a saint for releasing them!

Would also love an s4 version since it looks epic

Thank you very much for your X and Y axis tensioners. I really appreciate the engineering behind the sleek design. You rock!
I understand the current design for your CR-10 is final, but I would like to update the parts for the CR-10 4S as well (the Mk4 Y tensioner doesn't fit my CR-10S).
Would you mind including also the Solidworks files for the CR-10 4S version? I will try to update those as you did for the CR-10 version.
Many thanks in advance.

There's a problem with the download, it doesn't work.

Comments deleted.

Really, please tell me what is weak in the model... especially the Y axis version... is strong and stable! How can you break a support that works by compression? Please post photos, because you are doing something wrong...

Hello. I printed your design and it came out perfectly, but I have a small issue. I can not get the belt back on after putting the tensioner on. Has anyone else found their belt seems too short for this type of mod? I have noticed a few CR10S owners have the same issue. Is there are place I could buy a replacement belt, and therefore get one a bit longer?

Yes, other users report the same problem, seems the belts sometimes are slightly shorter than the ones on my machine. Unluckily Thr only solution is to replace the belts. You can order on ebay for example, gt2 belt 6mm width and 2 mm pitch. For the CR-10/CR-10S.

I want to use petg and btw petg does not shrink or warp its just like pla is this a good idea?

Really, doesn’t matter the material you use... tried pla, pla+, petg and always ok!

Great design! Just printed it but didn't notice its not going to work for the front mount of me Geeetech A30. Its just a different setup for the front mount. They use a rectangular block with 2 holes for screws on either side instead of the 2020 rails like the Original CR-10. Feel like doing a mod for it?? LOL

no 4020 v-slot, no party...
I don't have the measures for that plock due to the fact I don't have a geetech A30 :-P

Comments deleted.

ehy man,
this one is not for the ender 3 :-P

Of course, I have mixed up projects.

I do not have a CR10, but this is such a smart and nice design I wanted to congratulate you!

Thanks mate!, really apreciated!

Can i also use a 20T (GT2) pulley with 5mm bore instead of the OEM bearings?

I just did that. Just use the Screw File from the X-Axis Tensioner. I had to do a little bit of filing, but now I have a GT2 Pulley on the X and the Y axis :)

problem will be the inclination of the belts, that will reduce the accuracy of the printer.

Hi, all looks works fine, but could you modify the screw adding the place for the nut. i can't do it due to the too heavy weight of the STL files transformed in STEP.( arround 2.9 Go )
or if you could provide the STP files, would be great.

Thanks for feedback!

Sorry, but I decided to remove the nut from all my models, because it is completely useless (and in the older versions of the screw make the screw body become too weak.

Hi, (This is a Google translation)
I took again and modified the body of your version so that the fastening by screw faces on the profile of bottom and not in that of Y and I also added a nesting which is lodged in profile 2040. My design is not as good as it is, besides a good job, I had a hard time modifying it ...
Am I allowed to share it on Thingiverse?

Good Job mate! of course you can share it on thingiverse, I think that this is the main purpose of the website!

Ok, thank you, I just wanted to talk to you about it, since I'm not the author of this design ...
Regarding the printing, I made PETG in 0.15 and 100% infill, and I had a lot of trouble to fit the central part in the body, I had to file the two parts so that it can s' nestle because it really forced too much ...

Seems the PETG issue is affecting several users... I will try to print myself the pieces in PETG to verify the fitting. I make a video of the fitting test of the pieces of the X axis after some users complain about the tolerances, but for me the result is ok (PLA+), maybe with the PETG the shrinking is different and affect the tolerances (0.1 / 0.15 mm all around).
Anyway thanks for your feedback!

With my PETG and an extrusion multiply adjusted perfectly, putting 0.18mm of tolerances it comes back in strength ...

Hey there. Awesome design. I have printed several of these and i notoced when i do them in PETG the screw ans nut will not fit. Have you tried making them in PETG?

Generally I use Pla+, maybe they have differen shrinking during the print.

Hi - good job!
But it does not fit using the OEM-belt of my CR-10s - some millimeters are missing - sounds like a guitar-string after inserting the tensioner. (Same issue with the X-Belt Tensioner)
So I will have to replace the OEM-belts. Do you have any recommenditions for the belt fixation?

The design is based on my cr-10 needs (that I supposed standard...). Some users reported the different belt lenght of both X and Y, so means that on same machines there are some build differences. If the issue is about 1 or 2 mm you can try use the screw of the X axis tensioner, and replace the bearings with a gt2 pulley (smaller diameter, so you should be able to gain the necesssary lenght). Otherwise, you can modify the models and create your own remix dedicated to your machine.

Hi, thx for the response.

That is what I assumed - some differences between CR-10 an CR10s - although I hoped you would respond "you assembled it the wrong way". ;-) :-D

Just ordered new GT2-belts - shouldn't be much effort to replace them - it's the easiest way to solve the issue for me.
As well I found some belt end clips on thingiverse (because I don't want to use cable ties).

But again: really good design - thx :-)

the main issue is that probably during the manufactoring, the operators may cut the belts one or more teeth shorter or longer!

Hi - If I wanted to take a swing at adapting this for the Ender 3 Y-Axis, how would you recommend I start? It seems like the X-Axis tensioner for the Cr-10 is compatible with the Ender-3 and the part can be printed and used directly however the Y-Axis is not.

Someone else did take a swing at it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144 which is a good remix, but I really do like the production/polished/finished/oem look of your X and Y Axis tensioners.

ENDER 3 Belt tensioner

From the photos I found of the Ender 3, seems that from the Y axis has been used a 40x20 profile, placed in vertical.
I can suffest you to start from my model of the X Axis (the working surface between the tensioner and the aluminium profile is the same), and add a bracket on the right side.
I already post also the STL files, so you can take measures and everything you need from these files.

So, I've been messing around in tinkercad and trying to learn Fusion360, but haven't managed to get at what I think is needed for the Ender-3 Y- Belt tensioner. I think what needs to be done is to make your X-Axis tensioner symmetrical, and it will also work on the Y-axis (see this one as backing up that theory - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3068872) and mount that upside down since on the Ender-3 Y-axis, the top of the belt is the part that needs to be above the extrusion, and the bottom goes in the middle of the 4020.

Do you feel charitable and up to creating the Y-axis tensioner for the Ender-3? Because I think mirroring it given your skill in creating these is may be pretty straightforward for you to do. I do know that several ender-3 y-tensioners exist but they all look so utilitarian compared to yours.

Ender 3 tensioner - uses stock bearings and screw

Check this out!
Here is the Stl of the body. Screw and Knob can be reused the ones of the original post.

Let me know, maybe add some photos!

Wow!!! Amazing! Thank you! Will print tomorrow or this weekend and will post photos! I'll print in PLA as there sounds like the design is very precise for PLA, and not PETG.

Let me know...

anyway, i created a dedicated page, so you can post directly there!


Ender 3 Mod - Y Axis Tensioner
Comments deleted.

Nice work! But there is a little collision in the parts. Or do you scale the screw?

You are right... and I found the same issue also on the X axis tensioner! Now I will fix it...probably something goes wrong during the revisions :-P

Thanks for the info!

WoW I'm just about to do both on my cr10s and this one is very nice looking, I don't think it'll work though on my S

Cr10 and 10s are basically the same machine...so, it will work!

I agree totally the diff I see is the screws on the side, cr10 has 2 and the S only has 1 so that may be a problem. But still outstanding work!!

I don’t undestand why should be a problem... the tensioner is fixed on the alluminium v-slot...
Anyway i also have the double z axis, and the tensioner fit with no prob.

Well shoot it's so well designed but the belt is too short on my cr10s

Did you ever find a solution? Same problem on my cr10s. =P

No unfortunately the only way I see is too replace the belts so they can be trimmed to a longer length than our stock belts. I'm not sure what belts to order except its a gt2 but teeth count is what 16 or 20?

The number of teeth is for choose the sprockets...an it vary according to the primitive diameter of the sprockets!
The belts that you need are all GT2 wide 6mm, you can buy some meters for few bucks!

Coming back to the lenght problem, the body can be shortened few mm (I can suppose around 4 mm, that means you will save around 8mm of belt in total). Anyway, you can find some remixes a little shorter than my model.

LoL ya I've been looking at belts and found that out today thanks.

Hi there, I like your Tensioner more like the others I found, I printed it now a few times, but it breaks easy, what Material do you used for your Part, I used PLA and had this issue.

Thanks a lot and hope your answer can help me out. :-D

I used pla for both X and Y axis

Try use higher infill and at least 3 perimiters.

I read also the comment below, where it say that seems is weak...but I printed as normal in PLA, and everything is working like a charm.
i normally print at 0.2mm layers, 3 perimeters, and around 50% of infill (generally honeycomb pattern)

It's beautiful, I like the slick design. Of course needs a little improvements.
Below are some recommendations:

  • Side oval holes to be smaller for rigidity. I had to print with 4 perimeters to ensure strength.
  • More tight thread (I know some will complain, but it's currently with very high clearance)
  • The holes for the bearing screw should have the nudge a little less and on both sides. (M4 25mm needed) I put 20mm with no nut, hope it survives
  • Smoother edges for the top printer side. perhaps longer towards the frame with a fillet or draft
  • The Y letter is silly (Just my opinion) Maybe add one with nothing and one with "CR-10" like the X axis one

I appreciate you sharing the solid-part files as well. Thank you for sharing the design and sldprt.

Hi, thanks for the comment.

  • Probably you are usng low infill, because mine is rigid enough for tension the belt over the need...
  • Thread really has been an "experiment" i tried several prototipe, and this is what best suit my needs (or better, my printer :-P )
  • for the screw that keep the bearings, I can consider your suggestion, anyway i didn't figure out any problem till now.
  • Design issue, has been done like is now for give a little of extra strenght
  • I like the Y letter... and I prefer it to a "CR-10" logo, because is under my eyes, so I can avoid mistakes ( ok, points of view! )

I try always to upload also the model drawings because I think it can be a good help for the comunity.

Thank you for your response.

My infill is OK, and I had no issues, I added 4 perimeters to ensure strength for such narrow vertical print. FYI strength is mainly in perimeters not infill, you can test yourself ;)

All recommendation are generic, as you thankfully shared step files, I easily customized it according to my needs including tightening threads.

General recommendation on creating threads: Set same setting for both internal and external threads (male and female). Then Push one titled side 0.1 to 0.2 maximum to allow easier assembly. If on purpose you would like to make the parts more lose for any reason, push the parallel side 0.1mm, that would make it really loose.

Hi Mina, Would you consider posting your remix?

Hi are all of the files the new V2? I have a CR-10s (Not 4s) and want to print this but want to ensure I have the correct file so it wont interfere with the bed. Thank you in advance

Hi,i print it but it dont fit the CR10S version , it need a more long belt to use this tensioner

Edit : same thing for X axis

I have 1.25cm space to axle on print but only 0.9mm on oem tensioner belt already in tension

Mine is a CR-10 standard and the tensioners fit...
Can you post some photos? because is a quite strange issue.

Here they are , i try to do it has precise has i can but it's difficult ....

I see what you mean...
what can I say...probably the belts installed on your machine are a shorter than mine.
I made the design based on my CR-10 (that I supposed was Standard, and as you can see from the pic in the model is fitting correctly) and giving quite enough clearance for tight and release the belt.

Unluckily, in this particular case I think I cannot do anything for help you :-(

Sorry mate!

It's not a problem i known how to edit your soilidworks file, i'll try to do it when i've time and post it as a remix.

Originally i'll just advise people to be carefull on this point ;)

Thank you to take time to answer =)

Did you ever get around to making a remix? Same problem on my cr10s. =P

print in progress ,i'll do it asap ;)

yes, they are the last revision.

Can it be used with a GT2 toothed idler pulley (20T, 5mm bore) as it is possible with your x-axis version?

No, because the GT2 pulley is wide around 13mm, the two original bearings are 10mm if positioned together.
Furthermore the diameter of the Gt2 pulley is different than the one of the bearings. In this case (different than the one of the X axis) if you watch the motor bracket for the Y axis, you can see that also there Creality places a couple of bearing for guide the pulley over the V-Slot Profile.

OK. I have already replaced both idlers on Y-Axis with GT2 20T pulleys. I just want to have a tensioner too now ;)

Too bad that it isn't possible.


Maybe you can try to use the 4S version
The 4s version have larger seat for the pulley (13.8mm ) so should fit also your pulley!

Hi, this looks awesome !
You mention you use the OEM bearing, but can you use the OEM belt, or a longer one is needed ?
In the X-axis one, it is said in the comments the OEM fits, is it the same here ?

Thx !

Yes the belt is the OEM one!

Can you create one for the 4S model? Where it atttaches to the CR-10 looks like it would work but the pulley is 14mm. Thanks

14mm wide? Sorry but I don’t have a 4S model, but give me all the indications and I will make the drawing for you!

It looks to me like where it fits onto the frame would work as it is and where the bearing sits as is would work. The belt and the bearing on the 4S are larger... the bearing width is 14mm where the opening on your Y tensioner, for the bearing, is like 9.8mm. Thanks.

Ok, I understand the issue. The problem is that by only increasing the dimension of the bearing, the actual screw become too weak.
I need to use bigger screw diameter....so need to redraw all the pieces! Just give me time, as soon as I have some spare time I will prepare also this version.

Ok, the stl for sthe S4 version are ready, the only thing is that I didn't try to print them ( fore me they are useless at home, sorry...).
If you can give your feedback after the print, will be really apreciated.

Thanks for the design....
I hope this feedback on the S4 fit helps.

Here is a bit of Engineering review after printing hope you accept this not as criticism as you did an excellent design.
I could not make mods to the files as they are in stl point cloud & I'm using ProE Creo.
I included pictures in case you want to make the mods yourself. (I can help if you PM or load the files in IGS or OBJ)

The body spacing for the bearing is too tight..
The S4 Y bearing measures 14.05mm
STL design is 13.88mm

The screw holes are also small.
S4 shoulder screw = 4.14
STL design is 3.80mm
Recommend:4.15 - 4.20mm

The bearing shoulder might be also small for printing.
S4 bearing OD = 7.13
STL design is 7.00mm
Recommend: 7.13 - 7.23mm

Hope this helps & again thanks for the great design!

Hi, thanks for your suggestions.

I didn't own a S4 model, so I never try to print the pieces personally; the drawings were based on the standard version of the CR10 (with all the tolerances I used there).
the users that print and install the pieces didn't "complain" till now, so I tough was everything ok.

I will keep in consideration what you wrote, I will just wait some more feedbacks!

thanks again

It works... Can you make the _Screw longer? where it can be fully thru the nut when it's pull it's least amount. does that make since?
When the screw is fully seated into the body have the screw long enough where the screw goes completely thru the nut.

After installing about 5mm longer screw would be awesome.


Added the file for longer screw ( +5mm ), is the version Mk2