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Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

by cisardom Apr 16, 2018
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I just bought the MMU2 upgrade, anyone know if there is an easy way to make this taller?
I am thinking of printing legs extenders. thoughts?

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Does anyone have an issue with the acrylic fitting vertically? I had mine cut by TAP plastics, so I think the dimensions are very good (440 mm), and I measured to check them. I'm thinking there is a design error in the corners. The IKEA leg is 400 mm, so there needs to be an additional 40mm of spacing provided, but it appears that there is only 39.4mm spacing from the corners (20mm for the top, and 19.4mm from the bottom corners). This is the height of the corner brackets minus the thickness of material above and below the acrylic. So there is only 439.4mm of space for 440 mm of acrylic height. Plus there is no tolerance built in for inaccuracy in the construction (gaps, minor printing errors, small acrylic dimensional errors)

Will the old PSU frame holder from mk2s work for the new mk3? Looks like it fits, the full infill one :) Printed it a log time ago and had it left, or is the full infill one for the mk3 and the mk2s have the one with the hole and the bottom screws close to each other? While the mk3 one have more space between the screws to the bottom frame

My lack legs seem to be a little big. They are about 50.5mm or 51mm. This makes them slightly too big for the corner brackets and the center holes on the leg and corners don’t line up. I tried to scale the print up. However, it also widens the sides of the corner brackets and further pushes the leg away from the center hole. Is there a remix that makes the corners slightly bigger? I just need something for 51mm X 51mm legs.

If you have any kind of self esteem as a maker - don't do enclosure of your printer in this way. Lack table is basically a paper. It cannot be properly squared, you cant modify it. Whole construction has no rigidity needed at all (two or three tables on top of each other). I am heavily disappointed from proposed solution and currently I am going to re-do the enclosure project from scratch using proper materials and proper construction to get stable, customized and rigid construction needed.

The rigidity is only an issue if you put one (or more) LACK tables under your printer. To eliminate this I put the enclosure on an existing (rigid) table and designed a new MK2S PSU mount which replaces one of the lower leg corners, thereby eliminating the need for the second table.. (Sorry for the shameless self promotion :-P )

Of course you can build bigger and otherwise superior enclosures, but probably not as easily and cheap as this one. And once this outgrows your needs you can always build a better enclosure. I don't agree that this isn't worth building, it's big enough and holds my spools just fine.

PSU mount for Prusa i3 MK2S Lack Enclosure

Thanx a lot for your comment as well as for pointing out your solution that can solve some issues and frankly speaking I like it. Even tho I don't want to hate this enclosure but I just don't like it. I am a maker, building kit scales and RC models and my mind is not able to handle solution that cant be at least basically squared and shakes all the time. Lack table is cheap - but it is just because of it is made of paper. It is not even a MDF. And if I take into account the price for plexiglass - I can handle the wood costs to build up enclosure I am NOT ashamed of. I just wanted to point out that this enclosure is a solution - but just for people not able to do it by themselves. If you have hands, saw, fast square, screwdriver - do custom solution from proper material you can be proud of.

I completely agree with you on everything, but still like it =P I'm really curious about your enclosure, would you show it to us once it's done?

I would like to. Currently working on plans in fusion. Not only for 3d printer enclosure but for whole man's cave as I just got 18m2 of happiness and solitude :-) All furniture (workshop with 3d printer and gamming PC) is planned to be built up from scratch by myself. Best of luck and thanx for discussion

That sounds like a awesome and huge project! Good luck to you too =D

Is it possible to print PLA inside this enclosure or will it get too hot?

everything you cant print inside this enclosure;) works perfectly here.

It'll get a little warm. I like to remove the front doors when printing PLA

do you have the power suply outside the enclosure? its not getting to hot, even not with petg or abs or what ever filament i tried so far

Yes. I keep my power supply outside of the enclosure. I also keep the room fairly warm when printing abs.

If you are looking for a great price on Acrylic for making this enclosure, check out Queen City Polymers. Than can engrave what ever you want into the material if you want to make it look fancy. They also have a store on Ebay under Powers Plastics. Check out there website at http://qcpinc.net/.

Hi dear. Nice work bit could it be possible to get file (especially for top and bottom corners) separately and not grouped in one file ?

Hi, nice enclosure.
I'm going to make one... but what kind of magnet do you use for the front door ?

Forget it, I found my answer below...

Did anyone have a lot of trouble with the spool holder shafts and wheels? I had to grind those down significantly to get them to fit, and they don't spin well enough. I'm having to redo the design myself... which is fine, just frustrating that I used the material on them

Is there already a bracket for the new delta PSU?

Prusa i3 MK3s Frame brace instead of black PSU
by Mrena
Prusa i3 MK3s IKEA Enclosure black PSU holder
by Mrena

Thank you for the link

There's a 4 pack of 20x6x2mm magnets available on eBay which fit the handles perfectly, just add a dab or two of superglue :-)


i have an anet a8 should I put the Mainboard outside of the enclosure or can it stay inside ?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

be aware that the anet a8 is tall. make sure it fits. guess how i know.

I have pre-ordered some time ago the MMU2S

it seems not to fit in the enclosure, is there a easy way to fix this or do i need to make the top enclosure higher if so how much ?

and whats the best way to place the tubes and the holders and the filament holders ( have the auto reverse 5x printed allready ) so all 5 will fit on top next to eachother.

has someone the mmu2s allready build in the enclosure to give me some tips according guiding filament tubes and where to drill holes etc,

would be awesome:)

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where did you get the heated bed right angle piece you showed?

Hey nice design. I print everything together but the shaft for the wheels is way to tight so I broke one of them.

Can you add as sparepart the shaft seperatly also as one of the wheels?

I've seen a few people mention that there is no instructions or part for putting another table one the bottom. I had the same problem and drew up some connectors that I used for the enclosure and shelf I made. I also noticed that having having another table makes it vibrate pretty easy so I designed some brackets for the corners that help reduce this. Hope these help.

Lack Shelf
Lack Bracket

I like it. Probably make some changes. One of the worst things for your power supply is being inside the enclosure.

Thats why they specify to put it outside the enclosure.

Thx for the great design made my own version of it for 2 ender 3
So made a double enclosure that stacked on top of each other

Hi , Very cool your box and i love stickers Ender , bravo

I wasn't quite satisfied with the guiding of the filament from the spools to the extruder.
Here is my take on a solution for this: Prusa i3 - IKEA Lack enclosure - filament slot

Prusa i3 - IKEA Lack enclosure - filament slot

Same observation here: filament gets sheared and twisted, eventually leading to filament breaks or extrusion problems.
This is exactly the kind of guiding I was looking for, thanks !

Appreciate that, thanks :-)

Can someone please post the converted demisions for the plexiglass in inches please?

Oh cool, apparently I can't read.

You own a 3D printer but can't google conversions to a pointless measurement systems?

you have a mother but she didn't teach you how to be nice to others?

divide mm / 25,4 = inches
440mm / 25.4 = 17.3228 inches

Thanks man I appreciate it

This led clips are terrible.

They are huge, they hold led strips very loosely, and they don't even work that well mechanically.

A much better and smaller/better looking design is here


Led strip clip for 8mm almost invisible
by Hopepie

very nice build! does it fit to a am8/pk8?

If you came here from the Prusa page about how to put the enclosure together, here a couple of notes:
First, screws: None of the screws they recommend worked well for me. Use 14x2 instead of 12x2 to attach the top corner brackets to the table top. Then use 10x3/4 instead of 12x3/4 to attach the legs to the brackets. The 12x2 screws did not bite into the wood enough and the 12x3/4 were so big they split the bracket apart.
Next, the spool holder: The fixed width spool holder is worthless. I have spools from at least two different companies and none of them fit this holder. It's too wide. Also, the screw hole in the middle to attach it to the table is far too small for any reasonably sized screw. Don't even bother with it, go straight to the adjustable width spool holder.

Wish I would have saw this literally 10 minutes ago. Went to store to get the screws..and came here to see if anyone commented on why the screws didn't fit right. Blah!

grrrrrrr.... same thing just happened to me. Wish I checked this first.

can we get the parts individually so we can modify them for our specific printers?

could you throw in some extended bottom parts for the ancloser that make it taller overall? cause im wanting to use this for my anet a8 printer

I think he made it to fit the prusia, which is roughly the same size as the A8, so it should fit

The A8 I have puts the control panel in the top crossbeam, so it's a 2 or 3 inches taller than the Prusa.

Nevermind. If you did the AM8 build the legs are going to raise it just under 1/2 inch. Need to raise the enclosure about 2 inches...... maybe three.. I might make a shim for it, I'll have to try it out first. If I do I'll have to remember to post it here for you, or hopefully he'll make a change to one of the corner brackets.

i had printed everything and bought the plexiglass before i measured. with some anti-vibration feet on my a8 it doesn't fit.
so i got some timber and made a square to fit between the top and the legs. after i painted it black (as well as the underside of the table) it all looked like it belongs.

now to do something about the doors. the weight of the plexiglass makes them sag.

Comments deleted.

The magnets adhere is strongly. I have tried in vain to build a 2mm cover for the magnet holder to weaken the adhesive effect, unfortunately it does not fit.

Can someone provide one?

Hi everyone,
So sorry for my ignorance. I am new to 3d printing and am wondering what software you guys are using to remix models. I absolutely love this design but my printer is way to big to use Lack tables.

What I am trying to accomplish is brackets that will fit standard 2x2 (39mm) wood so that I can make a cabinet to fit my printer. I wish I could buy individual legs from Ikea.

Thanks for the great design!

I didn't understand how to contect it exactly with the PSU.

  1. You said if I use MK3 with 24V I need a 24V LED. But itÄs also possible to connect a Power-Down converter to the PSU. Am I right?
  2. If I want to use more fans to I need an other power supply or is it possible to use also step down converter and conect a raspberry pi on the PSU which controls the fans?
  3. Some people recommend to use a special 16A Fuse for a second PSU. Is it right?
  4. Did you think about a tutorial with filters for the case and temperature control?

Finished mine yesterday for my i3 Metal Motion by Emotion-Tech. Used glass instead of PMMA, much easier to find at the local store

This design requires smaller wood screws (M3 or M3.5) for the cable clips, and the power supply mounts. These screws should be listed in the list of required parts but they aren't.

The recommended right angle heat bed part isn't great on the MK3, most of the comments say it won't fit and that the cable can obscure the build area causing prints to fail. The description recommends bending your pins and stuff which I didn't like. I printed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890592 instead. I haven't tested it with large prints, but at least it doesn't require mangling things and definitely works on the mk3.

The design makes no mention of attaching the bottom table, I used these: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:587706 they work great.

As I was using the 60 degree adapter the power cables were too short for the printer to be moved forward enough to not crash into the back of the enclosure, I solved this by drilling through the table and running the power supply cables through the hole.

Prusa i3 MK3 60 degree heatbed cable cover
LACK Attack #1: Stack the Lack (aka The Lack Stack Adapter)

Any chance you could upload the .stp files for the Adjustable Spool holder files? I would like to make some tweaks to the be able to use my custom roller bearings. This would be the .stp for these two files:


TIA - Kevin

any reccomendations how to separate parts in slicer for example there are all 4 corners all together and I only need to print 1 ? Would love to get any suggestions.

Use the Split option in the tool bar and it will separate them.

Thanks, it worked easily. Just other designer did some mistakes in design so now I have 8 parts from 4 parts ;DD Though this feature will be helpful for other parts.

Is there enough clearance in this model for the Maker Select Plus/Wanhao i3 Plus without spool? I know there are some clearance problems without spacers, but I'm not sure how the machine's dimensions compare to the Prusa i3.

If it doesn't fit, can anyone point me to a spacer that might work? I found one for the MMU 2.0 - I assume that'd do?

I have the I3 and jut measured it up against the LackTable and it will fit with the 2+cm extra with the spacers.

Can only tell for sure once I finished all the parts.

Thanks for the response! I've actually printed a set with a bit more clearance, but they're really tall, so I might print these ones if the clearance is enough.

That said, I've got a few pieces that extend the height of my printer a bit (namely, the Z-axis stabilizers), so I might just be better off going taller.

Let me know how it goes, and good luck!

Its terrable, i'm spend 14 hours for printing and get this:

@cisardom pls, switch upper corners in this make to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948686

Using original IKEA furniture to connect legs and desk is not bad idea.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE Top Corners for Original Hardware

Yeah these are great, before I started printing I read somewhere in the comments that these are a better solution.
And when I compare them with the stock solution well.. Lets just say the stock solution is going to the trash.
(building a lack enclosure for myself and a buddy of mine is building one for himself. He is doing 90% stock and me wel I am just looking at the remixes and makes to get other and maybe better parts hehe)

Does it fit into 4mm glass?

Can you share it as 4mm?

The slots for 4MM would be too tight unless you did some sanding on each and that would be way too much work. Ideally you could take the design files offered and widen the pieces.

You're going to want to take the PSU outside of the enclosure. The PSU is not meant to take the high temps that the enclosure create.

Indeed. Have to figure out a way ti do that. The design was made for the psu holder underneath the enclosure which is not really handy in my setup...

Hello, Can you send me perhaps the upper rear corner individually in a Stl file?
One is broken during construction.
Many Thanks

There are a option in Cura to do the same under mesh tool

open the files in slic3r and click "split". You can then individually print parts,

thanks for the tip. #TIL

Is there any way you would make the top brackets that hold the legs 2cm taller so I can use your design for my Ender 3 pro?

This set of parts is sorely in need of an update.

  1. The PSU brackets should be designed so that the PSU is attached to the top LACK, not the bottom LACK. That would allow people use one LACK table for the enclosure. I already have a steady table so I'm not going to use another unstable LACK table as a base.

  2. The PSU wires are much shorter than this design assumes. The PSU must be mounted on the left side, not the right. Therefore, the enclosure holders that have a gap for the PSU wires are on the wrong side.

  3. There is an alternate version of the enclosure holders that use the existing Ikea hardware, instead of requiring all new screws. That version should be used instead. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948686

  4. The holder that allows for PSU cables to enter the enclosure isn't big enough for a USB cable. For that, you'll need to create a second slotted holder for the other side. In fact, I would say that both left and right rear holders should be notched for cables, just in case.

The original article on the Prusa blog is closed for comments, so I have to post this information here. Please update the blog with the above suggestions so that new users don't waste time and effort.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE Top Corners for Original Hardware

I don't want to use two LACK tables, I only want to use one. Is there a PSU holder that attaches the PSU to the same LACK table?

Edit: I found it myself: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2983953

Alternative PSU-Mount for Prusa I3 mk3

It was complicated to push 3mm plexiglass into the space and some parts got broken.

could be that your printer don't print that accurate ? I haven't printed my self yet

Single part got broken. Is there a way to print just one part?

In Cura there are a Plugin called Mesh tool where you can split up the and remove the parts you don't wan't to print.

Did not know about this... I used sketchup to explode and then regroup everything into different STL files. this is much easier. Thank you!

I use Slic3r to slice models. It has a "Split" option that will separate them for you.

Very cool! Unfortunately the sliding spoolholder doesn't fit thinner spools. For example the DAS Filament spools that I have are narrower and will not fit. This could be fixed by having the part that joins the two wheel supports straight instead of in a "C" shape.

I could not find the STEP file for this to modify it myself, but I think it should not be a big deal to change for the original designer anyway, and would make it compatible with more spool sizes.

Silly question, if I make the components in PLA (my ABS warps too badly) will the heat melt the corners when I starting remaking the parts in ABS after the build is complete?

Second question, I have the ANET A8. Will the remix with the 60 mm top corners work ok for this build?

If you get more then 50 - 70C in the box for a longer time you get problem with PLA men it will take some time anyway so if you like to print ABS and replace them I think you should be OK.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Unless I am just not seeing it... Where can I find the stl for the right angle heatbed cable clip. And also will pla be ok for that clip?

There are some more link to printable parts in the article https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/

Thanks! I must have skimmed right over them while reading it. I will go back and find them.

I tried to print all the part in PLA but the Prusa_Enclosure_Bottom_Corners failed each time (the filling failed and some "clac" noize can be heard). I've printer (after this failure) all the other pieces (and lot of other things) without any problem and i've never got that kind of problem or "clac" noize.
I know it looks like a Filament grinding problem but I try with 3 different filament (all PLA) and get the same problem, and I've never the problem for other print.

Could it be that the bowl shape is disturbing the printing ? Is it common with PLA ?

I will try with a slower speed this night.

I've got a Prusa MK3, tried to print with 0.2 and 0.15 speed, PLA 1.75mm

Hey, I've just acquired my prusa MK3 (yeaaaaaaaah !!!!!), and wanted to know if there was special settings to put to print it with PLA and no support.
Are all the piece printed with no support ? Is PLA a correct material ?

From the manual for the i3 MK3

“11.3 PET/PETG
PETG is a very tough material with good thermal resistance. Its use is universal but especially suitable for mechanical parts and both indoor and outdoor use. PETG has almost no warping,​so printing large objects isn’t a problem. We use PETG to print parts for our printers!”


Hi. Is there any guide how to wire the LCD cables to the Electronics? Tried to find those power supply connectors like these on prusa psu to attach it easy to the electronics but cannot find it.

Comments deleted.

Is there a MMU2 upgraded version for this already?

I have remixed the base supports for this (raised the whole thing up by three inches) and have them saved...but I don't want to upload them until I get my MMU2 in and measure/test fit it. I have measurements from Prusa, but nothing is like seeing it and getting the measurements myself.

Further thinking one this...I'll try a remix where I split the base that I have made in half. This would require other makers to go and fiddle with CAD software to add height between and then attach them in software. I don't suggest using Slic3r to make them larger.

The unfortunate part from me is I have to wait until February 19' to do this; when my MMU2 is scheduled to be delivered.


I am also very interested in the taller base supports, I have a 13Mk2S with the MMU1 and would love to utilize all these features in an enclosure but cant find one I like that is tall enough!

edit: the included STP file can be loaded into Fusion 360 and extruded to the appropriate length with out degradation to the model

Hi gibbygibstone, I already have the IKEA tables, and just received my MMU2 yesterday. If you wouldn't mind sending me the files I would be happy to test them to see if everything fits.

Thanks, I will have to wait until end of this year if they keep their word.
Build the enclosure for my wanhao duplicator i3 v2.1 in yellow because it had a yellow z brace upgrade. Now I was thinking about reprinting it in prusa orange, though I bought the MMU2 so I'll wait for the new parts.

Thanks for the quick reply

NP. Prusa’s been pretty good with keeping their dates. I wish I had purchased the MMU2 when I finished building my MK3 in June. I’d be getting it in this month. All the enclosure prints i did were in prusa orange PETG. I don’t want to print anything else (in PETG for my enclosure) until I get the new dimensions and verify my remix.

Another note and bad thing for me concerning my enclosure, I’ve already purchased my plexiglass for the dimensions for a non MMU2 enclosure. I can’t return it and if my wife finds out how much I spent on the PG, she’d kill me...so no complaining or sending it back. I think she thinks it came with the unit...LOL.This also leaves me with the dilemma of not having a closed enclosure...so no printing with ABS and PETG does not do great...but it will print, badly.

signal boosting this, since it's really helpful, printedsolid sells all the plexiglass cut to size for $60, which is comparable to the cost of buying it and cutting it locally

Thanks! That's great!

I'm having a hard time mounting the power supply outside of the enclosure. The wires going from the power supply are so short that there isn't much room to move it. Did anyone else run into this problem? Did you have to rewire it?

I just came here because I just built mine and it's doing the same thing.... hoping there's connectors or an extension that can be used to make them longer.

The magnets are hard to find, I found them on aliexpress http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bjGfnizK

In the STEP file for bottom corners, the orientation of the cable hole in the corner piece is incorrect, it is rotated 90 degrees compared to the STL version.

I use Hatchbox filament which is apparently too skinny to fit on the spool holder. What kind of filament is everyone using that fits on the holder.

bonjour es ce que ce serais possible de me fournir les plan d'origine car je voulais rehausser les pieds du haut de 3cm ou si ce n'est pas possible de me fournir les plans pouvez me modifier les pieds du hauts a + 3cm merci a vous

Hi, i have the problem, that all the brackets for the 3mm plexiglass are to tight. They are around 2.75-2.85 mm. Does anyone else heve this problem or does it belong to my print settings? Thanks!

same here. see my review below

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

Hallo i have a question.
I print any things from this parts. first a bottom corner and from the spool holder the filament guide pin for the hole.
All things i print are not realy round, can you give me a tip please what i make wrong.
I print with an Ender 3 with cura. 200° nozzle and 40°bed temperatur. Speed 40m/s and 0,15 layer hight.

Your X & Y belts are not tight enough. The tend to come loose from the factory - I Had the same issue. The slack causes circles to be elongated. Simply tighten the belts and you will have perfect circles in just a few seconds of adjustment. Y is the belt on the heat bed, X is the belt on the Hotend. You'll find a detailed explanation on the reddit tread below.


Does the mk3 with the mmu2.0 fit?

Doubt it, I found some standoffs here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099309
If it does fit with the standard enclosure let me know. My MMU is still on backorder.
From the top off the frame to the top off the enclosure is about 68mm left.

Prusa Lack table extensions for MMU 2.0

So is there a benefit to using acrylic sheets on all sides or is it just for viewing?

I want to make something like this but was thinking of just using acrylic sheets for the front and then wood on the sides and back since acrylic sheets are more expensive.

Mainly I'm just trying to keep the cost of this project as cheap as possible

Correct the sides ar for viewing angle only and you can use another option if you choose.

Comments deleted.

Hello, i will print your things for my ENDER 3, so i must modify the top and bottom corners in the high. How much air is between the table and the plexiglas above and below?

Let me know about this, or share your files, kinda wanna do this for my Ender 3 too

There already is a higher version. Printing either top or bottom should be enough.

60mm Bottom Extenders + 60 mm Extended top corners

Where can I get that Nifty Power Supply switch cover that's in the video?

Comments deleted.

All the slots are too tight for my 3mm Plexiglas glass, what's a safe % to scale up

This looks like a great project, so I'll give it a go.

What's best to printing the parts in? is PLA ok?

Hi, thinking about making this. Dose it fit Anet A8?

Yes and no,

It's about 10mm too short for mine, but just Stanley knife a slot out the bottom off the top table and it fits in because the lack tables are hollow

Comments deleted.

I have been using the Lack table for my 2 printers so they can stand above each other for a couple of years now and they are great. But this is an even better idea by enclosing them. I have a Balco with the box next to it (Wahano I3 rebadge) ideal for this, and a Cocoon Touch (another Wanhao I3 touch rebadge - same company) which this project is also perfect for. Thank you for this.

Comments deleted.

What an amazing effort, really good job

bello il progetto, volevo fare solo un domanda, dove trovo il file per stampare il coperchio dell'alimentatore che vedo nel video?

Ive split all the top and bottom corners up so they can be printed one at a time.


Prusa i3 Ikea Lack Enclosure (ALL PARTS SPLIT SEPARATELY)

Is there any chance you can post the dxf files for the bottom brackets? I would like to be able to print the parts in smaller groups to reduce print time per batch. Awesome build Thank you for your contribution.

I have done this, i will post up

Prusa i3 Ikea Lack Enclosure (ALL PARTS SPLIT SEPARATELY)

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

love it, printing now scaled at 90% to fit my Walmart table 007139228. printed the filament roller and its just to wide for the filament I use, going to have to remove an Inch from the base plate.

Did you have to widen the holes on the top corner pieces so the screw on the leg could go through?

I don’t know yet. Haven’t had time to assemble. I will let you know after today.

I have been looking all week and have not been able to find the bracket to actually clip the PSU to the parts printed in this file. I have the Maker Select v2. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Not quite sure what you're asking, "bracket to actually clip the PSU to the parts printed"... there's the PSU holder in this "thing", and the part that would replace the PSU on the frame would be https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859884, is this what you're looking for?

PSU replacing Frame brace for Original Prusa i3 MK3

No, im looking for the piece to replace the PSU case. The part circled in red in the picture.

I'm also looking for the black piece. Which is subject to the power supply

Comments deleted.

You don't replace that part. I could be mistaken of course, but I didn't. You just print the small hook with a notch so that the top of the PSU slides in it.

alright! im going to give it a shot! so far this build has been a lot of fun cant wait to get to the finished product

I have built this and it works great. I am able to print ABS without any problems.

I was wondering if the Multimaterial 2.0 add on will fit.


Anyone has an idea of what kind of protection glass for laser (500mW) ?

You need to get the appropriate color/tint for the wavelangth of the laser you are using. There is no "one size fits all" for all types of lasers.

could you seperate the parts that go on the legs so we could resize them on the z to make them taller if needed like i need for my ender 3?

Comments deleted.

anyone using this for the anycubic i3 mega?

I am getting ready to, will need to make some changes of course.

how did that work for you?

Уважаемый Доминик. Ваши работы великолепны. Спасибо.

Hi, we (me and the printer) are so very happy with the new outfit ;-) You have don a marvelous job!

I have one problem, the doors turn on small cylinders, I have already broken 2 of them. Is it possible to provide the files so they can be modified to have more strength? Or maybe another way to do so? I have printed everything in PLA.


Thanks a lot!

I broke the door hinge peg as well. I just reprinted those pieces with more shells for better strength. But there's this version that has option of metal pin hinge. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188720

Ultimate Parametric LACK Enclosure

Thank you ! Point well taken I' ll reprint if and when needed

My son just spend hours printing parts using Pla. Will they stand up or should he reprint in pet?

I printed everything in PLA, no reason why they wouldn't "stand up". At worse, if you see they don't down the road, re-print at that point in time.

Hey Guys!
I'm looking to print and bud this enclosure but........
I live in NZ, and we don't have IKEA here so getting the LACK tables in outrageously expensive. so i plan to build them myself
Can someone tell me the dimensions of the LACK tables legs?

I live in NZ, and built mine using the LACK table, grabbed it from the IKEA "parallal importers" in Parnell Auckland. A few places have them https://www.urbansales.co.nz/IKEA-LACK-Side-table-High-gloss-White

$18 boss! https://www.zoomly.co.nz/shop/living-room/coffeeside-tables/lack-sidetable-useful-so-cheap/

They are 5mm x 5mm x 400mm.

Does anyone have the parts for 4mm Plexiglass?


Came here looking for the same thing at the weekend and saw your comment. Couldn't find anything after that so I edited the parts.
Just in case you are still looking for a 4mm version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3118119

Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE 4mm plexi parts

I wish I'd seen this an hour ago! I've just started a quick test print of parts that need redrawing to take 4mm twin wall polycarbonate. As it's not as rigid as acrylic my plan was to add fixings for some strengthening, which is why I thought redrawing was better than remixing, but as you've already done this, I think I'll use yours, and add strengthening if I need it later. Thanks.

Hi, any luck here? I would need the parts for 4mm as well! thanks a bunch, Franz

Is it ok to use glass instead of plexiglass?

I'll be trying that too. I used acrylic sheet for my first attempt and I absolutely hated working with it. The store couldn't accurately cut to my dimensions in mm. I had to end up trimming/sanding a lot of it myself. Left me wondering if glass would have been easier to score and trim.

For those not near IKEA stores, the table parts can be scaled to 90% to fit Walmart table #007139228 perfectly. Print the rest of the parts at 100% scale.

How well does the actual table fit given it's almost 2" smaller? I'd contemplated getting the WM tables but decided against it since I could get 3LACKS shipped for the same price as picking up 3 of the WM tables.

Well, unfortunately i dont actually own a prusa. I’m building this for my snapmaker. You have about 17 1/4 inches high to work with. Not sure how tall the prusa is. Hope that helps.

Hi, first of all, great work on this design/instructable!

I've managed to assemble a Lack with acrylic panels, used regular metal hinges to secure the panels, cut custom holes to allow cables to run through, insulated everything and it works really really well with ABS on my Prusa.

The thing is, I believe there is a design flaw which could do with some tweaking - not just for this design but as far as I could see it, every other one out there - or then again, the other way around and the issue is on my end ;)

The point is, all designs resort to a tiny central hole - or multiple in-line holes - at the top of the table, for the filament to run through.

Makes sense I guess, but try printing a tall enough model at a reasonably "fast" travel rate on the extruder, and while the print is going just fine with both detail and non-warp, watch what happens to the filament string near the hole at the top...

Eventually it will snap due to the tensions from the extruder head rocking back and forth on the printing surface, and more so as the print raises, due to the hole aperture...

I've had this issue on my build already, so I'm considering opening a gap at the top, so the filament string can slide left-to-right more freely - but also wanting to preserve the heat inside the cabinet, so I'm thinking about adding some foam to the fringe...

Anyways, thoughts, comments, anyone?

Test scenario:

Tall enough, wide enough part, printed at a reasonably fast travel speed (in my case, used to work fine for non-cabinet + PLA)
travel speed: 130 mm/s
autospeed - max print speed: 80 mm/s
perimeters - 60mm/s
infill - 80mm/s

and I can post additional parameters, using Slic3r


Answering my own question here, found this other model which solved the issue for me:


IKEA Lack Filament Guide Long

By the way, hoping to avoid any additional "gashing" on my Lack build, as it looks really good as it is right now - I also tried placing the filament inside the cabinet, should it make sense even, but the printer won't allow any extra room for it...

I have a GEEETech Prusa i3 X by the way.

My heated bed has the wires that connect via screw's. I can't turn them 90 degree's. Will this mount not work for this new bed?

Could someone more skilled then me make a version that raises the top table so it fits bigger printers? :) (In my case the ender 3)

I would be very thankfull!

there are quite a few blocks out there you can use to raise it- what I did however was get 3 tables, cut off about 2.5" from the bottom legs of the bottom table, and screwed them upside down under the top table's legs. this extended it to fit the anet a8. then i used this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201733 to mount the top table to the middle one, and it looks pretty sleek.


personally i see that as a waist of a table.. if they would include the parts serperated you could scale just the z and make it higher easily i did it with a set of other legs but theirs is not doable how they pacakaged them as one large item even tho they are individual items

How do I break each file down to printing one part at a time not all of them at once

In the Slic3r Prusa Edition software, load the STL file of your choosing, then click on "split", highlight one piece you want to delete, and press the delete key on your keyboard, or right click the part and select delete, until you're left only with the part you want to print. Then export the STL or if you're ready to print, the gcode file.

what do you mean by Prusa edition Im a bit confused because i have a Tevo Trantula

I know this is a little late but I ran into the same problem, having all the parts grouped together. I went into Fusion 360 and sent all of the parts out to 3D print individually. it took a little bit longer on some of the groupings than I would have hoped, but it worked.

you have to figure out how to split up the parts in your particular slicer. If there's no option you can use something like Slic3r to split it up and then re-save the parts individually.

The software I use is called "Slic3r Prusa Edition" but you can download the non branded Slic3r from http://slic3r.org/. I just tried and it works the same.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

Is it bad to have a raspberry pi mounted to the frame while inside the enclosure?

That is what I will be doing, I have no concerns... they produce heat but not that much.

where can I buy plexi in US?

US covers a lot of ground, but try TAP Plastics. They often cut to size for free

in which case, which material?, I don't find plexiglass

thanks!, do you have any links?

If you haven't gotten your acrylic yet, Printed Solid sells them cut exactly for $60. https://www.printedsolid.com/products/acrylic-sheets-for-prusa-lack-enclosure

Holy Smokes!!! This project is awesome. I have been trying to come up with a good way to enclose my Prusa ever since I got it. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Keep up the great work!!

Great setup, except the spool-holder.. It works really poorly! Often jump of one of the roller, and sounds a lot! Have many time run to the printer room because I heard some noise an I thought something is on its way to break, just do realize its just the friction between the spool and the wheel that sounds then the spool rotate.. Maybe a version with bearings or something would like better?

I wonder if applying a little bit of Vaseline or mineral oil between the little arms and the hook they rest into might help... I figure this is happening because there's too much friction?

Does anyone have a drybox that works for this setup? Looking for something that will feed from down in that won't be delicate to line up.

I'd considered enclosing another lack table with plexiglass on top, for the filament, but I'm hoping to find a different solution.

Upside down container over the spool works fine

Comments deleted.

Hello I have ABS. Do you thinks it is posible to make this with ABS? thanks

can fit on tevo tarantula ?

You need to make the legs taller on the table.

Does anyone have full dimensions for the lack? Trying to model this up, can't seem to find the numbers


Edit Found a good model. Strangest thing, though, it imported at exactly 10x the real size, took me a while to realize exactly the scale


Ikea Lack Side Table 3d model
by dstorer

Can you upload the separate STL'S?

Quick tip for anyone. The bottom left corner with the cable cut out. Make that for the right, and don't make the right foot parts. If you use it for both back feet, then you can pass cable on both sides. Personally, I think this should've been done on this model.

For anyone worried about losing heat because of the extra hole. Heat goes up, so this won't do anything one way or the other for the heat lost.

Does anyone knows where I can find the black printed part at the bottom of the PSU ? (see attached file)
Thx :)

I have an Anet A8 and as I have seen in several videos, they increase the height by 10cm. I would like to know with these pieces what additional height is achieved?

as the clear panels are 440 x 440 mm, I'd say just barely over 440mm. if you need it taller, check these out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956169

55mm increase for "Ikea Lack table Enclosure from cisardom"
by Gena_X

I have an i3 clone that is about 45cm tall, can anyone please design a modification that allows my printer to fit in the enclosure.

there's a riser in the remixes.

Hi, I can not find the remix you mention so I can print it.
I would appreciate your help.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research
Comments deleted.

Sorry for my english, i'm french.

I ordered a Prusa I3 mk3 but I would like to prepare the piece of furniture early.
I already have a printer microdelta but the tray is round and made 150mm of diameter.
How to print top and bottom corners ?

Télécharge les logiciels pour la MK3, sur le site de PRUSA, tu auras SLIC3R Prusa Edition, et là, avec le button scinder, les pièces sont dissociés, comme ça tu pourras les imprimer une par une, ou en tout cas en fonction de la taille de ton actuelle imprimante.

Bon printing ;-)

you will likely have to break the STL into individual pieces and print one or two at a time. It's easy if you are using Fusion360.

I'm having issues with the plexiglass being loose in the enclosure. I place it in and the doors just FLOP out of the front. I'm not sure if it is caused by the settings i printed the part with or if it was caused by the glass that was given to me wasn't perfectly 3mm or something. What would you suggest for securing the glass inside the guides? Rubber cement, hot glue gun, or screws?

Also I just ended up drilling 3/8" holes in the original holes of the feet and it allowed me to use the provided screws. I ended up putting the side screws on them just to be sure but most of them were pretty snug after a 360' spin.

Bit late of a reply, but on mine, I used 1/8" plexi, and to keep the doors in place, I drilled two holes in the back side of each of the hinges, and drove M3 screws in (let them cut their own "threads") just enough to clamp down on the plexi. Makes it trivial to adjust the door panels' alignment, too.


Would it be possible to have the dwg version of bottom corners ?

Or even better (since I never used CAD system) to have some basic bottom corner without hinge or stuff to catch the plexiglas... Just would like some simple bottom corners to stack another ikea table without plexi.

Thank you so much !

I just finished my encloser, and it dawned on me, I've got the Prusa MMU upgrade on preorder, and I don't think it's going to fit mounted on the printer and inside the enclosure? I'm thinking that I might be able to mount the MMU on top of the enclosure? Has anyone else thought about this, and how it can be added to the enclosure? I really love this thing, would hate to have to pull the top off every time I want to print in multiple colors.

I've thought about it some myself and wasn't sure how much extra height will be needed. I went ahead and made it as is and install 5 filament guides. Was thinking if I needed more room, I could modify the corner pieces to make them thicker. Would also have to get new Plexiglas for the new height. If I had to, figure I would just build another unit and put another printer in the first one.

After taking another look at the MMU unit, I'm thinking that it just might work by mounting it on top of the enclosure. Have the filaments feed into it there, then have it feed the filament down through the enclosure and into the printer. Going to have to wait until I get it, then go from there. Not sure how long cables are going to be, and so forth. But, we're makers, I'm sure we will come up with something!! LOL.

Hi Great designs.
Any chance of the DFX for the bottom corners so i can print one at a time. I try not to print multiple parts.

You can split them in cura or slic3r

Would be great to know

In Slic3r, once you load the parts use the "SPLIT" button to split the group into individual parts. You can then select which parts to delete/keep.

The bottom parts don't have holes in them?? I mean those notches that you mount on the bottom table for fixing the top table.

Comments deleted.


       I am printing this enclosure for my Anet A8 printer.  I found a similar lack table on the Walmart website for 

$10.00, the problem is it is not the exact dimensions "20.00 x 20.00 x 17.50 Inches". I am wondering if anyone
has used the Walmart table for this project and if it will work. Also, anyone with an Anet A8 printer that has made
this enclosure is there extra space around the printer. If there is about an extra inch on every side of the Ikea
table then I think the Walmart table might work. Any help or ideas will be much appreciated.
Thanks, Vince

Walmart link for the lack table.

Brand: Mainstays
Manufacturer Part Number
Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)
20.00 x 20.00 x 17.50 Inches
50.8 cm x 50.8 cm x 44.45 cm

Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)
21 5/8 x 21 5/8 x 17 3/4 inches
55 cm x 55 cm x 45 cm
Max. load: 55 lb
Max. load: 25 kg

I currently have my anet a8 on that same exact table. The table is about .5 inches to small to fit the enclosure over it. The width of the anet a8 is pretty dang close to 20 inches wide which gives you no room to put plexiglass on it. The ikea table is 1 and 5/8 bigger on each side, which gives you the space you need to put plexiglass. I had to just buy the ikea tables since i could not find any tables at any store near me that were bigger than 20 x 20 inch. I am kind of mad because i dont live by ikea so i have to wait for them in the mail.

Thanks for the info. Ill order them from ikea, same problem I dont have a local one.

Hey there,
if someone is using this for the Anet A8, you might need a little bit more height since it touches the upper table. I made a spacer for the bottom: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2951886

Thank you prusa! Looking forward to receive my Prusa printer next month!

Lower spacers Anet A8 for Original Prusa Enclosure

These worked perfectly - thanks!

did you need this or did you make it just in case you needed it?

I needed it because the table touched the printer on top.


I made a filament guide that I like better when printing tall objects so the filament isn't bent so much.



Lack Enclosure Filament Guide

can you add it as remix? i tried finding it there because i forgot i saw it in the comment section before. :)

I created a remix of the upper corner brackets that allow the use of the original screws that came with the Lack to attach the legs to the top.


Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE Top Corners for Original Hardware

Looks good, I'll try it out!

is it necesary to put the electronics (arduino ramps etc) outside the enclosure?
Can the temperature be so high that affect the electronics?

Does this project work with the MK2S? I'm concerned about the heat bed connection and the PSU support bracket.

Is it possible to get this design for 5mm sheets instead of 3mm sheets?

I'm just learning 3d modeling with tinkercad and to edit it there would take forever.

A really good design.
Can you make an upgrade für the hinges? I want to open the case at three sides.
Greetings from Germany

Printing a few weeks with this case - claims are solid. I did see a slight improvement with PLA, but ABS I found a huge improvement. Keeping the top and mid shelf removable, really made upgrades easy to access. I had to break it down for a microswiss and belt tension upgrade...I can take it down to a single table in seconds. Thank you.

Does anyone know where to get the arm support where the PSU used to sit? They mention the arm to keep the structure sturdy but I can not find it anywhere.

Found the following links at the Prusa site: https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure
Power Supply Replacement Bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859884
90 Degree Heat Bed Cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837970

PSU replacing Frame brace for Original Prusa i3 MK3
Prusa Mk2.5 Mk3 90 Deg Heatbed Cable Bracket for MK52 V2 Heatbed

Thank you so much Igv2016!

So I’m in the process of printing parts for this, started with bottom legs. In case anyone wonders, I’m on day 3.5 of a continuous print currently at 23% on my ANET A8

Wow, thats a really long time! You use 30mm/s and 0.1 layer hight?
I will try them with 45mm/s and 0.2 hight. Cura estimates ~14hrs.

Not sure I just left everything as the files came!!

Files don't come with any settings. You download .stl files and then you have to select settings after your own choosing. Sometimes you can find suggestions here on thingiverse, but there is nothing in the files.

Wich slicer do you use?

I used Cura but just opened the files and selected slice. Didn’t change any setting so it’s probably at ultra fine but that’s fine for this as there are long term implications to doing a good job

Anyway day 5 plus 10 hrs of the first print still soldiering in even after 5 days continuous printing, just 50% done. But it’s going to be worth it and as you can see print quality seems clear and uniform. I’m so happy right now!

Looks like it's printed very nicely but at 100% in fill! Knock that down to 20% and the print time will plummet!

Is this enclosure a viable option if you plan to run the new MMU 2.0? Mine should be shipping ANY day now ;)

As a lot of people have noted straight screws into the Lack don't bite well. I am going to be taking mine apart this weekend and trying drywall anchors and see if that helps at all, was wondering if anyone else had attempted that yet.

Did you have any luck with drywall screws? I’ve got a large assortment of them and am thinking of using them also.

This was my plan as well. Should keep them in. Otherwise I try hot glue in the hole and screw them in afterwards.

Did your drywall screws work? They are my go to general purpose screw.

I ported the handles to OpenSCAD, to hopefully make it easier to tweak the design to use whatever magnets you happen to have on hand (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922505)

Handles for Prusa enclosure with disc magnets (Redesigned in OpenSCAD)

Thanks! exactly what I was needing.

Hi, I added also a third table and cut-off 18 cm of the feet that the second table top levels with my "normal" table. The IKEA Lack feet are hollow and my floor is not perfectly flat, so I created "Adjustable Feet":

IKEA Lack Adjustable Foot
by Humahua

I added a third table and wanted the extra stability of tieing the corners together. Here is a file that is just for corners with no provision for lexan. Enjoy!

Ikea Ilack Table Interface

Hi there, this looks very nice, can I ask what LED lights you used ad where you got them? Thanks :D

Were are people getting there Acrylic Sheets from? They seem excessively expensive and was hoping someone might point out a better / cheaper option.

I get mine from printed solid website. Its all pre-cut and if you check twitter i think there is a discount code.

I found mine on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/361813670877
This is the cheapest that I found where I didn't need to cut it myself.
Just ordered 2 sheets and provided my measurements.
Came out to around $55 shipped.

I got mine from a local acrylic place. Was like ~$70 cut to exact size. Definitely not super cheap, but should last forever.

Comments deleted.

Great project :)

I had some problems printing the corners and lost one part...
Is it possible to get every part in separate files?
It's not as organized but you can reprint things fast without spending time and material on parts you won't need.

Most all slicers allow for “Splitting” the STL. Which slicer do you use?

Use Slic3r. Once you load the parts use "SPLIT" button to split the group into individual parts. You can then select which parts to delete/keep.

Ok. Thank you!

I will have a look at Slic3r. Never used it before.

Is anyone looking to seal their box?

I'm building this to be able to print ABS, with my main concern being the fumes given off from melting ABS. I've already printed and assembled a HEPA + Carbon filter air scrubber. I want to build this box and seal it (as best as I can) and have the air scrubber inside to clean the air. (As best as possible anyway)

This design leaves a ~2mm gap between the acrylic sides and the Lack tables. I'm looking for some sort of gasket / trim to add to the acrylic walls to create a decent air tight seal. I'm currently in the middle of printing all the required parts and therefore do not have a finished product to measure all dimensions.

So far I've found this trim / seal here: https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubber-Edge-Trim-Push/dp/B00NL49008/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NL49008&pd_rd_r=C97VG6TCRYZFV3G3WZYH&pd_rd_w=v07BD&pd_rd_wg=JCoyX&psc=1&refRID=C97VG6TCRYZFV3G3WZYH Which has a 2.38mm wall, and 7.62m of length. The whole box requires ~7.040m of trim, not including the space between the two front 'doors' - so 7.62m should be just enough.

Does anyone have any other ideas for this besides caulking? And if you have used caulk, which kind would you recommend? Silicone apparently does not stick to the acrylic very well, or at all.

Thoughts, anyone?

Hi, have you tried the foam window/door draught excluder stick on strips?

I have not, but that's a good idea!

I have my enclosure about 80% done at this point. Still needs the filament hold and holder setup, as well as the PSU mounts. I'll be ordering the solution for filling those gaps next week. Unfortunately the sizing of the gaps are not perfect since the acrylic was not cut exactly to size at the store. Good advice on the stick on strips as I think my original solution in the above post won't work anymore due to the inconsistent sizing.

If you have a fan that blows air through your filter from the inside of the enclosure to the outside. It will create an underpressure in the enclosure so air will only be going in to the case via the gap.
(If you seal your enclosure so it's airtight, it will create a vacuum after a while, the fan will be working it's ass off and virtually no air will leave the case).

You can easily test if your fan moves enough air by holding a small piece of paper infront of the gap, if it bends towards the enclosure air goes in via the gap and not out.

What I'm trying to say is; that's good to have a bit of a gap :)

Best of luck!

Most Silicone will bond fine. You're hearing it won't because people commonly use both Acrylic and Silicone for Aquariums, but in this case due to water pressure the seal will not hold. As long as it doesn't have any significant pressure on it, a Silicone gasket would work perfectly.

Silicone is commonly used inside Acrylic Aquariums to hold interior panels. Silicone cannot safely be used to seal an Acrylic Aquarium, where you will need actual Acrylic cement. Internal use is okay.

Don't believe me? Check out this video where someone does a strength comparison test on Silicone and Acrylic. Not good enough to seal an Aquarium, but good enough for a grommet blocking only air.

Props, nice work. Worked like a charm for maker select v2.1. Custom made a few parts but great base to work from.

I'm looking to adapt this same setup to my MPMS v2.1 as well. I'm curious - what did you have to change up/customize?


No changes to the enclosure, except I had to do a ton of research on the plexiglass to find the right fit. If you can't find the right thickness, then the support will have to change. I tried online, local hardware stores, local glass stores. I settled on this:

More than what I wanted to spend, but because of the size, I have enough to use on the middle shelf or another one if I get a second printer.

I uploaded more pics here so you can get a better look at the space: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:489984
Not a tight fit at all, plenty of space for a light on the side vs the LED strips.

The only thing I edited was the handles to fit magnets I found at home depot; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916725
I did a rush job, so not a perfect fit, not flush, but glued them in

To mount the box below, I had to notch out the back. I took the braces and cable guide from: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2685750
I rotated my heat bed to three point, so the wires are pretty tight with the box completely forward, the box sets back just a bit. Still can see the screen fine.

Spool Holder:

Filament guide:

Door Handles
Wanhao Lack Triple Stack Enclosure Attack: With Sliding Control Box & Removable Top
TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder
Ikea Lack filament guide
Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

Thanks a ton for the awesome response! Looks like I have a weekend project...

Are there any changes or considerations needed if I were to do this with a MK2S?

The top supports for the legs should've been designed such that the original IKEA double ended screws are used to assemble the leg/top support to the table top itself. 6x50 wood screws do not have enough 'meat' on the thread to bite into the table top with enough grunt to hold the supports square/true. Once you've then screwed the legs on with the 6x20 screws you're stuffed, you cannot tighten up the main 6x50 screw when the eventually work loose.

I simply drilled a bigger hole in the top pieces to fit the ikea screw. It all fits fine.

I managed to use the Ikea double ended screws. First, I attached the upper corner standoffs to the legs with the two screws, then used a pair of pliers to screw the Ikea double ended screw into the leg through the standoff. Then you can screw the leg and standoff into the table like you would normally build the table.

I agree. I just put those in and some of the 6x50 wood screws don't even "tighten" they just keep turning around and the leg stays loose. And even the ones that seem to tighten ok at first are easily "broken" if you use not even much force to tighten them. I would suggest a modification to the design to use 4 screws per leg so that it can't rotate and you don't need to put so much pressure on each screw to make it tight.

Dang. Wish this had been out when I made my Lack enclosure. I love the hinges.

Wondering if someone can clear something up for me. I was trying to load the STP files from this project into fusion 360, but when I do, they end up getting imported at a REALLY tiny scale. Can anyone provide a clue that would help me WAR this issue?

Before you save to STL, change the measurement units.

Great design! This may be slightly too small for the RatRig AM8...Will most likely have to remove the rubber bottom to be able to fit, and that's with maybe 1 cm left at the top for clearance

Could you provide a version of the long door handle magnet holder (with two magnets) with 7mm holes? The 6mm screws always destroy the holder.

any infill on these parts I didn't see you mention this

Hey ,
I have an ender 2 i want to print your work for ... the files are grouped for a larger build bed than i can accomodate...
Are you able to help out with uploading an ungrouped or individual files.. would be appreciated ..
its only the top and bottom corners i cant manipulate ..

thank you for your work

Load the file in Slic3r and then use the "split" button. It will "un-group" the parts and allow you to delete/keep what you want.

Perfect thank you

superbe :)
beau travail j'adore, j'en es pas besoin mais j’apprécie :)

has anyone printed all parts at once? or do i have to slice them into separate parts?

Do they all fit? They’re broken roughly into groups printable in one go on the Mk3. You could squeeze maybe two in but I doubt you’ll fit all the sets at once unless you have a huge bed.

Edit: If they do fit I imagine you’re building an enclosure for a different printer than the one printing them in one go :P

Edit: Here's what it looks like on a Mk3 in S3D. Not even close to enough room to print them all in one go.

What is the inner height?
440mm? Will My Anet A8 fit?

HI the anet A8 is 43cm height, best way, is have a 50cm

Are these the same files as in the video or files based on the video?

On the bottom corner pieces. Are the "cones" that attach to the bottom table supposed to have holes in them for the screws? There's definitely countersunk holes going through them, just not all the way. Is it best to try to drill through this?

Everyone will use a different diameter of screws. That is why the holes are filled. Do not drill them out with a drill bit, but drill through them with a self-tapping screw.

There is a modded remix that punches them through.

No supports needed on any parts?

Prusa control generates supports in some places if I enable it.


I printed it without any support. There are several small bridges. The printer should handle them...


Thanks for this awesome design. I have not started printing it yet but I noticed that for the spool holder not all parts are at the bottom for example the big middle piece. In Prusa Control I notice that the gcode preview doesn't print for all parts on the first layer.

Is this an error or is it by design for some reason?

I opened it up in Slic3r-PE and it is the same. I split them up and then all items align on the bottom layer.


Hello, thank you for comment. No, it is a mistake done while the last update. It should be corrected now;)

Hi, does it fit with a prusa mk3 with multi-material kit ?

According to the article it stated for non mm screws to use #12 2 inch, however I just tried building with #12 and they slide right into the leg holes, need a bigger diameter. Heading to the hardware store now with the screws that come with the lack table to see what size is needed.

I'm trying to order everything I need for this tonight, do you know what you ended up getting that worked? Was about to order a large pack of #12 x 2" screws, but just saw this.

Any insight is appreciated!

The #14 2" and #14 1" were what worked for me. The 1" because 3/4" were too short for the bottom pieces and barely reached the table. Not sure if you're ordering the plexiglass as well, but if you go by the 18" measurement they posted, they will be too big as well. Go with 17.3 inches, which is what 440 actually converts to, and 17.3" x 8.65" for the doors. Also I suggest getting some smaller screws to hold in the LED/wire clips if you're going to use them. I just used extra screws I had laying around for them, they were about 1/2" long and fairly skinny, like 1/8" or smaller.

Excellent, thanks! I ordered packs of #14 2" and #14 1" last night instead of what they listed.

I had my plexi cut locally by a place called Laird Plastics (there's many locations across US) and they were able to take the mm measurements and convert them over to the 17.3 and 8.65 just fine so that's what I ended up with.

I'm sure I have some small screws for the wire clips too, thanks for all the input, very much appreciated!

Hi, great design !
Does it fit a MK3 with the the new MMU 2.0 ? And is it possible to place 5 filament guides on the top to use the MMU 2.0 (is there enough place) ?

I'd love to know as well. Have an MK3 and MMU on backorder, and I love the idea of this enclosure.

One great suggestion someone made (not sure where sorry) is that the mmu2 can be modded to sit on the top when it comes along, no need to be inside the enclosure or on the frame at all.

Yeah, that may work. However there's going to be quite a few power and communication wires going to the MMU 2.0. You also may have to extend those wires. I'm sure it's not the end of the world, but I'd rather just keep it inside, and have a nice spool holder on top.

When I get my printer I'll see if I can remix it so it's a bit taller. I'm just not really sure how much taller it needs to be.

MK2/2.5 PSU cables route from the bottom instead of the backside as well as having a smaller notch for the U shape "clip". This means that the PSU cannot sit completely flush against the bottom table. Any chance someone already has the modifications?

EDIT: I just lowered the PSU for an acceptable amount of slack to avoid pinching and added a swiveling front support piece. Works great. You might have issues with cable length if you use a paver as well. consider routing it to the left side of the rear-left leg. This probably means adjusting your corner piece orientation and horizontally flipping the bottom PSU holder.

I'm trying to put this together for the mk2s and I'm running into the same problem. I can't really visualize what your saying though. What do you mean swiveling front piece? Do you have pictures?

Super simple, but not very elegant.

Thanks. That's how I wound up doing mine too.

I want to build this but I also want to continue to use the cement slab that I have to help with vibrations (maybe I wont need it when I upgrade to MK3) but how much height is available on the inside? I think the cement slab I have is 2 inches tall, would that still leave enough room for everything?

You might have pinching issues with brittle filament having to make severe bends along the X axis at high Z. If it does fit, you might need a wider feed like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156762. My enclosure (not this design) only matches an extra 2 inch height with a 2 inch paver and this is an issue for me. I have not modified it yet so I don't have a complete solution available.

LACK Table Filament Guide

Thanks for your response and the filament guide!

Do you have a good source for the magnets?

Yeah k&j magnetics. BC41. Their USPS shipping is like $5 so now is the chance to add other items to your order for the same shipping cost.


I remixed the handles for Harbor freight magnets if you want to try those out


Prusa Enclosure Door Knob for Harbor Freight Rare Earth Magnets

Thanks, that will come in handy. I couldn't find the magnets they listed either.

Haven't built the enclosure yet (parts still arriving) but I ordered these if that helps - 1.5mm but I figured use 2 if they're too thin or pack it out with card.


I have used 1.5mm thick in my handles although they have been fitted in my remix (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876499) so are hidden.

They work fine. 0.5mm is pretty negligible in terms of clearances and neos are so strong they don't have to make contact to work!

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE Hidden Magnets MOD

Is it also possible to use PLA for this? Also would you be willing to post links to the various parts we'd need to purchase (i.e. the plexiglass, heat sensor/thermometer, magnets, twin cable, compact lever connector) so we can make sure we're getting compatible parts?

Thanks so much for putting this out there, I LOVE my prusa mk2s so much I've already purchased the mk3 upgrade kit, the mk3 multi-material kit, and a second entire mk3!! You guys are the BEST!!!

PLA is suitable for most of these prints. I suggest avoiding PLA when in contact with anything that generates heat like the PSU if possible, though I'm not certain if it gets hot enough to require PET or ABS. Also, I'd opt to use a spool design using bearings if only for the noise reduction. I've used PLA wheels before and they ended up squeaking after prolonged use. I can't really speak for this design though.

Comments deleted.

Do you have a guess as to how much total material is needed to print all the items?

All the parts @ 30% infill took me about 550g

Excellent design.
Is it printed in petg?
Resolution and infill?
is it possible to have separate pieces?
my printer does not have a very large plate

Yes, it is PET. I believe I used default Prusa PET settings in Slic3r PE.
-2 perimeters
-0.2 Layer height
-20% infill
...but the geometry is not difficult to print. I am sure, you could you any reasonable, faster setting as well. Especially higher layer height will not have a big quality influence.

Which slicing program are you using? In Slic3r just hit "Split" button and the STL will be exploded into single objects.

Thanks for the info

I use simplify3d. I found the command you say

Thanks, love the design. Are there SCAD files for these files?

Hi, I do not have SCAD files, as I use Rhinoceros for designing. Sorry.

No worries, thanks for the design :)

I uploaded exported .stp files. If it is helpful;)

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

Thanks these helped a ton!

23pcs: 220 x 440 mm, thickness 3mm? That's a lot of plexiglass

Thanks for correction;)