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D&D Coins - Dungeons & Dragons - 5E Doublesided

by Lil_Doodie Apr 16, 2018
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Hey roughly how many meters of filament does each coin take? We're hoping to mass produce for our campaign!

For 10 coins my slicer indicates 10.39m and 33g. But that's not a precise measurement of per coin, given it includes a raft. That number will fluctuate a bit on based on the slicer you use though, so you'd want to just load some coins into your slicer and test what your slicer reports for yourself.

it gives me a good estimation. what resolution, wall thickness and infill did you use?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I print at .19. My slicer does not allow me to choose options like wall thickness. I infill at 10%.

Super spiffy! These will be Christmas presents for my son. What file did you use for the chest?

Sorry I missed your comment Monkey! Hope your son liked the present. I used this for the treasure chest, but I think you can find a better one now if you looked around:

Treasure Chest
by cushwa

These are amazing! Printing them in PLA as we speak, it's about 50% and they are looking fantastic! I couldn't print the silver coin though... Slic3r seems to have an issue with it... I have attached the 3d render from Slic3r. Anyone have any suggestions? Would love to have the full set!

PS. I needed rafts, really struggled without them.

Hi Xandel,

Not sure what's going on there, and I haven't had any reported issues with the file. There's a couple of things you can try though. You can run the file through Netfabb online to correct any errors (there shouldn't be any, given I do this already before i upload a file), but doesn't hurt to try. Or you could load the file into something like Tinkercad or Meshmixer, and then reexport it and see if that fixes the issue.

Hi Lil_Doodie,

Thanks so much - I really appreciate you getting back to me!

So I did as you suggested and imported it into Tinkercad and then re-exported it and it looked a lot better but still not 100%. I then used Netfabb (a tool I didn't even know existed as I am VERY new to 3D printing) and that seemed to sort out the issue completely!

Something else worth mentioning is I installed Cura and the original looks 100% on there so I really feel this is definitely a Slic3r issue.

I attached another Slic3r screenshot for those that are interested - from left to right - Tinkercad version, original version and the Netfabb version. Maybe all this helps someone else out there!

I'll print them all again using Cura and post a make. Thanks again for these fantastic designs and the heads up on some of the useful tools out there!

Comments deleted.

Just finished printing a full set of each type using an Anycubic Photon with white resin. Worked fantastic! I didn't need a raft or supports. Though a note, the Gold coins tended to chip and crack on the build plate. Seems the small edge was a bit brittle. Planning on printing a bunch and putting them in a small chest for my Nephews Christmas gift. thanks!

Nice! These look great! I also started to print them in resin. I went down to 3mm (or 3.5.. offhand I can't remember how big the ones one here are...) and print in resin, too. Thanks for sharing!

Really nice coins! A raft is definitely a must for these. I tried printing without, and towards the end of the print it usually fails. A brim doesn't seem to help much, but a raft makes all the difference in the world.

Awesome work, thank you for sharing!

Will be throwing these on my resin printer for Christmas presents for my DnD group

Hi, I have only printed off the gold and platinum as of now but they are nicely done.
not only have I printed them I used the print of the gold coin to make a mold.
I then used it to cast it out of bronze. bronze is the closest thing I have to
gold and real gold would be too expensive. (it is not the best it needs some work but I am
working on ways to improve it)

That's way cool!

My dude that is awesome!

That is friggin' awesome! Thanks for sharing and I think that coin looks fantastic!

What did you use to paint these? I'm assuming you printed in black first, but what colors did you use to paint them? They look great!
Edit - Oct30/18: I found the a metallic rub on paint, but can't get the shading effect you have. Did you apply an ink wash afterward?

Sorry I missed your comment srsobieraj. Yes, I used a mettalic rub on paint. I've had so many requests on the paint job I think I'll do a video about it.

I primed first in black, then rubbed on the paint, and then you really buff the paint to get good coverage and shine... and really, that was it. It's very easy and gives a great result.

What paint did you use as the "rub on paint"? Did you ever complete the video on how you painted these? ;)

No, I started it, but didn't finish. However, I'm painting a big bunch of these at the moment, so if I have time this weekend, I'll revisit the video.

I think I've got it figured out... the product you are using is "Rub 'n Buff" by Amaco... I found it and have made some Silver and Gold coins... very very cool product! Still working on getting that "aged" look, but the more coins I do, the better they look. Just don't put it on too heavy, this stuff goes a LONG way.

Thank you!

While i think this look amazing (they really do!), I think they are a little too big. The rogue of our party has like 5000 gp! Given that this then is probably platin, that's 500 pp.

So if you want a coin roughly the size of a euro coin scale it down to 0.77 . Ill post a make soon!

Another iteration of overengeneering discovered this arcticle: http://www.aetaltis.com/medievalcoins

To get to the size of a dime multiply the size by 0.6

The biggest issue I have seen with most of these is the volume seems to be out of proportion with the 50 coins per lbs rule. One pound of gold is 1.44 cubic inch or 23.6 cubic Millimeters (23.6 ml for reference). That is not very big per coin. I love these but I have been trying to find a way to make a coin that gives perspective on how big DnD coins actually are. That way when my players carry thousands of them they know what they are actually dealing with.

I haven't printed this yet as I am repairing my printer but when I do I will probably provide a scale adjust to get the mass size correct. Love these models.

You've hit the nail on the head for one of my pet peeves. In gaming it seems the higher the value of the coin, the larger it is. Historically this is NOT the case, especially when coin value is determined by weight. It looks cooler and is easier for people to grasp that "large coin = large value" but it makes me twitch when I see it. I may be trying to scale these appropriately.

You could certainly reduce the size of the coin to accomplish this, but this kind of granularity is out of scope for the kind of game I like to run, and likewise for the design, but I understand why some people might want this. The point at which a player might have encumbrance from mundane treasure accumulation (e.g. coins) FAR exceeds the number of coins I'm willing to print (i.e. there's no way I'm willing to print 500+ of these coins, let alone thousands of them, per player, there is no need for it in my games, and for me that's a waste of plastic)

So for my group/DM playstyle, we use the coins as thematic props, for gambling, for NPC negotiation, etc. I throw a bunch in a treasure chest, bury it, and let my kids dig it up. I put some in a pouch and gift them to people. That kind of thing.

My group doesn't use the coins as representation of how much money the players actually have (for large numbers). If my players ever were to pull out a calculator to compute the weight of every coin/item they were carrying, I would consider that a failed session for my particular game, as we'd rather spend our time ball-parking the weight of mundane items ("you're carrying 5,000GP Well that's going to slow you down a bit) and facing another encounter than in computation.

If your players like that kind of thing, that's great! For me though, it's quicker and easier, and requires a lot less print time/plastic to handle that through DM discretion.

Please post your conversion once you determine one.


Yeah, I totally agree. I use these as props for my players. If they have 200 gold, I don't actually give them 200 of pieces of these... if you were going to do that, you would want to reduce their size, as you have suggested.

Printed a set. These look like a really nice touch. Only suggestion I would have is to increase the emboss heigh a bit on the symbols. I'm having a little trouble with wash/drybrush being effective as the symbol is a little faint on a few coins. But nice work!

These look amazing! Great work. They look really metallic as well - what kind of filament did you use? I'd love to make these for my sessions.

Thanks! I used normal ABS, but it should work fine with PLA. The metallic look is from metallic rub on paint.

These are super cool. Any plans on making a Waterdeep version of the gold piece?

Sure! Is there an image somewhere for reference?

Chapter 9 has some bigger versions of the images, as well.

I'll check it out. Thanks for the heads up and the graphic!

Any updates on these? Just finished the regulars (which are heckin' amazing!) and would love to have some Waterdavian Coins <3

I haven't put myself to the task yet, but I would love to do some of those, so it's on my list!

So I guess it's not going to happen in the next month or two? Cause I'm planning to print a few hundred of each in nice shiny metal filament :D

Well, I get more done inside in the winter months than the summer months. So, it's possible, but not probable. I'd like to do them though.

Hey :), any updates on the waterdeep coins? :D

Worst case I'll have a bunch more coins :D
Really looking forward to them! Your design is really amazing :)

Awesome job and thanks for making these!

There is some weirdness in the hole of the silver coin. Looks like some naughty verts.

Hmm.. that's weird. Checked the original file and there is no nub or weirdness in there, so not sure how that happened. Reexported, and reuploaded, and it looks good now, I think.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Comments deleted.

You're wasting filament by printing with a raft. Unless you're printing something with a small footprint on the bed, go into your slicer and disable rafts.

Note that coins standing on their sides is pretty much as small a footprint as you are likely to run into. If anything was a good candidate for a raft, a bunch of these coins would be it.

Thanks for the tip! I print with a Zortrax, which always prints with a raft. Yes, you waste some material on large models, but you also get print quality on par or better than anything on the market. See skin quality here:

These print vertically and have a relatively small footprint (4mm x 30mm or less).

Conan Redux

If you don't mind me asking, what's your experience been like with a Zortrax printer? Im just starting out and Ive only got an MP Mini Select, but Id love to one day upgrade to a higher quality device.

My M200 is amazing. So amazing I bought another, and I would happily buy another if I didn't need the ability to print slightly larger files along the Z.

When I bought it, I knew I was interested in 3d printing, but had zero knowledge of it (and I mean zero). I also have job, side-job, kids, hobbies, etc. I needed something that just worked, was reliable, didn't require assembly, didn't require tons of tinkering, didn't require nights and weekends in maintenance and fixing. And the M200 delivered

Here's what I like about it:

  • It's about as plug-n-play as you get. 20 minutes after opening I was printing (again, that is with zero previous 3d printing experience). And not only are you printing, you're printing amazing, right from the start. No "dialing in" to produce great results. When you have more experience, you can do some dialing in to get even better results.
  • No assembly and no room for assembly errors due to inexperience
  • It's crazy reliable. I have almost 20k hours across 2 machines, with NO major issues (normal maintenance items like nozzles, occasional hot-end, new cable here and there, etc, are still present, as they would be with every printer)
  • It prints great. Despite it's ease of use, it should NOT be classified as beginner printer (as it pertains to print quality). Everything I print is on par if not better than, anything I've seen on the market (which is pretty amazing, considering M200 is now 3+ years old now, and tech is this industry is changing rapidly).
  • It's a huge time saver given very very rarely am I ever printing a part more than once to get it right the first time. So many people I know print the part, have it fail, print it again, have it fail, print it again, ok that is acceptable, but not great, print it again, ok there it is.. finally. This doesn't exist for me. Print it one time and it's great. When I do have errors it almost certainly has to do with how I designed the model, not the printer.
  • The fail rate on the printer is unbelievably low. In 20k hours printing, I don't even need both hands to count the number of times my print has failed as a result of the printer and/or bad settings.

Here's what (sometimes) don't like about it

  • It's a print system, not just a printer. You use their software. You have no other option (unless you know what you're doing to circumvent this, which most people don't). This has both pro and con. The con is obviously you're limited to their system/slicer. The pro is they handle the hard work for you, and a big part of why this printer is so easy to use is that they've handled those settings for you. So for me, this is actually more positive than negative, but for other with more experience, they also want more control.
  • The M200 works best, and gets the best print quality, using Zortrax brand ABS. The problems with this are that the spools are USD $32 for 800g. Or approximately twice the amount of money as what people normally print with using PLA (USD $18 for 1000g). In addition to that, ABS has a tendency to warp, so printing really large things can be difficult (having said that, I have printed large things just fine... but I have also printed large things that didn't work so well). The M200 will print external materials (i.e. normal PLA, etc), and results are still fantastic.

  • Operating expenses tend to be higher. I already mentioned filament. But other parts like cables and such are more expensive.

There are potential cons, like the perforated build plate, or that you always print with a raft (until the most recent update). However, these have rarely/never been an issue for my particular printing.

IMO the pros FAR exceed the cons on this printer, and it's an amazing machine. However, if you're getting into the hobby with more time than I have, maybe you do want a tinkerer machine, or maybe you do what to assemble and/or have more control over your print settings. Maybe you don't want to be tied into a system, but just want the printer and the ability to choose whatever slicer you want. These are things you need to think about prior to buying a M200. For me, there was no better printer for what I was looking for at the time.

Hi Falorin,

I'll write up a detailed response for you on the m200. I get this question quite a lot.

Can you do me a favor and upload a 'zcode' file here for me to test something with? Doesn't matter what it is. I've got a feeling the folks at the company got caught up in a 100 micron dick pulling contest.

That print looks nice and all but any well calibrated printer can do 90 microns just the same.

Very nice. Double-sided is so much nicer looking than flat printed.
Did you paint the coin color or just used metallic filament and some black paint highlights?

Thanks! These are printed in ABS and hand painted. Metallic filament would be awesome. Have had a lots of requests for information on how I painted them. maybe I can do an instructional. Glad you like them!

Looks really nice, well done! Maybe add paint instructions to the description?

Yeah, I could do that. Maybe make an instructional video or something. Good idea!

They look awesome!
How would you use them on your game, beside decoration?

Mostly decoration and prop use, yeah. Just kinda a cool thing to add to your game to add some thematic and immersive elements.