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Prusa i3 MK3 Cable Chain Add-on (ALL AXIS)

by llj3663 Apr 15, 2018
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will this work on the bondtech extruder upgrade??

To anyone who's using this: What's the noise level like? Is it louder than the original textile sleeves? Does it rattle or click? Thanks!

The angled heat bed link crashes with the x-carriage when you uprgade to MK3S.
Now I’m kind of screwed

First, I have to apologize for the lack of updates, that's on me. I dove head first before reading the "no diving" sign when it comes to Prusa re-works haha.

I think commenting on all of the comments in one place would be easier than addressing each one so here it goes:

  • MK3S/MMU2: I'm not planning an MK3S/MMU variant to this design at the moment. I'm mostly focusing on upgrades to my personal printer (still at a stock MK3, got the powder coated print sheet though!) so I will address these updates when I get the time/funds to upgrade myself (sorry)

  • Instead of address each comment since I last checked thingiverse, here's a group update:

    • ph1ll and ddg00101 thanks for the MK3S carriage updates

    • chrlie thank you for the addressing fraying issue. Full disclosure, I had this fraying issue without noticing it. I discovered it when I had a print go bad and COVERED my hot end with plastic. I stupidly destroyed my heating element connection while trying to take it out, found out it was frayed in the "extendomatic" when I took it out. Will be fixed in the next version.

    • Framemanager That's my bad, I thought I carried over the RPi3 case on this one. I'll add it to the STLs, but if I forget it's on the original thing's page (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2794755/files)

    • JeffreySo1224 and N3X15 thanks for the heatbed connection help

    • wolkbev I realize it's been awhile but did you figure out your issue? Let me know so I can avoid it going forward.

    • AdmSean I'm not sure how far the LACK enclosure moves the LCD screen so I can't say, but this design works with my setup (although it's extremely un-ideal, see attached pic). If you have them please advise of cord extension solutions, I am 100% mechanically minded so that's out of my wheelhouse.

    • leefla And finally leefla. Thank you so much for this idea. My intent was to keep the Einsy case as close to the original Prusa version as possible, but I don't see why that is necessary now. I've been trying to address the "extendomatic" wobble for awhile and I think this will completely remove that. I'll update the design with this shortly and report back.
Prusa MK3 Einsy Mount with cable chain connections (all axis)
by llj3663

Any chance this will get upgraded for the MMU? I would think it goes a little high for the MMU.

Is this compatible with the MK3S upgrade?

Hello, I love the system of chains.
Is there a way to customize the 'CarriageBack_revA-02' to the I3 MK3S?
Unfortunately, the part 'CarriageBack_revA-02' does not fit anymore now.
Thank you.

I made a remix at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3489335 for the MK3S

MK3S Cable Holder for Cable Chain
by ph1ll

I made this real quick as a stopgap until this project was revised. You have to print it with full supports, but it does print and work properly here for me.

Comments deleted.

Hello, congratulations for the system of chains! On your drawing, there is a case on the side for a RPI, can you tell me where to find it? Thank you

this upgrade don`t affect the performance of the printer?
Leaving more ghosting, vibration problems, heating the motors?

anyone have broken cables with upgrade this after many hours of usage?

many thanks!

I've noticed that the top bundle of cables in my extendomatic piece is beginning to fray. They're rubbing on the bend that connects to the chain at the top (I've attached a diagram to illustrate the spot).

Is there anything that can be done about this? Am I maybe packing the cables incorrectly?

this upgrade don`t affect the performance of the printer?
Leaving more ghosting, vibration problems, heating the motors?

anyone have broken cables with upgrade this after many hours of usage?

many thanks!

this upgrade don`t affect the performance of the printer?
Leaving more ghosting, vibration problems, heating the motors?

I haven't noticed degradation in performance. The chains may squeak a bit during printing.

anyone have broken cables with upgrade this after many hours of usage?

I've logged about 100 hours since installing the chains and only experienced one problem. The cables may fray at the bend joint in the extendomatic. I've bundled the wires with electrical tape to fix this (see the attachment).

A follow-up: I bundled the extruder electronics cables together, bent them in a smoother curve and wrapped them with electrical tape. This has put a stop to the cable fray.

I've updated the file so that the heated bed cover on the B7 update of PRUSA's MK3 can be used with this cable chain mod.

This is great, but the chain doesn't mate with this without a shim.

Here's a crappy, jiggly shim I made to work with this.

For everyone with the newer MK3 from August onwards, the heated bed cable in this does not fit due to a change in components. You will have to wait till the owner updated the bed cover I guess.

Sorry for the lack of responses the past couple months. I will work on going through all of the comments and address them in the near future.

Comments deleted.

Do you know if the arm is compatible with the revised extruder? I'd like to use both these designs but I need to know if I need to adjust things ahead of time.


MK3 Extruder and X Carriage
by vekoj
Comments deleted.

I just installed this and it is a great design. I love the way it looks and works.

I do have a few comments and unfortunately, one show stopper.

I couldn't fit the twisted 4 wire bundle to the Z axis motor into the smaller Z chain without untwisting the wire bundle.

Some of the links were a challenge for my old fingers to snap together. I would suggest clipping one side of the bump that forms the pivot into a ramp would ease assembly and shouldn't affect the strength of the pivot if positioned correctly.

I'm not sure why but it was a real challenge to screw together both halves of the extensomatic. I even used a clamp to hold it together when I secured it with the screws but when I removed the clamp a gap open-ended at the top between the two parts.

Finally my show stopper. I have a dead corner. I have the angled X axis link and I understand the reason for it but I am getting major interference between the X axis extendomatic and the X axis chain and the Y axis chain at low levels of Z.

Any suggestions welcome

Comments deleted.

I really want to add this mod to my printer but I have 2 questions:

  1. Would this work with the Lack enclosure design if the LCD screen is moved? (I'm planning on mounting the screen to the front of the enclosure)
  2. Are you planning to update it to work with the MMU 2.0?

Thanks for the very nice design. Do you know if it will work with the MMU 2.0?

Hard to say. It depends on how far the MMU 2.0 will extend to the back of the printer and from what angle the filament is fed. I have added a picture of the chain in the topmost position. There is ~5.7 cm space to the back of the frame until the chain starts.

Thanks for the pictures. I'll have to wait until I receive mu mmu 2.0...

I've started printing this, but had a few questions/comments ...

Why is the extruder chain so far back ? Seems like it would make more sense to have start nearer the standard hole/clamp for the extruder cables. That way the "extendomatic" wouldn't have to be so long, and put extra torsional weight on the back of the extruder.

Have you thought about having the X-axis motor chain (that moves up/down the Z axis) come out from the bottom of the einsy case ?

Lastly, the standard cable chain case, without the mods for Pi0 or Pi3 case attachments wasn't in this 'thing', and I had to grab it from your original 'thing'. (I have my Pi3 mounted outside my enclosure, so don't need those parts, but others not using an RPi might not find it, so I'd suggest adding it to this 'thing' also).

Thanks for your great work. Just a few things to consider :)

P.S. I'm planning on making an extruder chain "extendomatic"-style mount to work with JLTX's Skelestruder (alternative Mk3 extruder design) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845416 , so that I can use your cable-chain design with my Skelestruder.

Skelestruder V1 for Prusa MK3 and MK3s
by jltx

Hey did you end up making an adapter for the skelestruder. I am nearly finished printing the skelestruder parts but don't have a way to attach my existing cable chain.

Thanks for this great mod. I had a stupid issue with the Einsy Rambo board case: the cutout hole for the reset button was slightly too far away from back, so when I installed everything the reset button was constantly depressed.
Took me quite a while to figure out, what the problem was, because I thought the board got fried or something, since it doesn't react to anything you do, when that button is pressed.
Easy fix to drill open the hole, but might help someone in the future.

Also the new connector to the heatbed is quite the tight fit, i had to cut away that little cable guide on the heatbed mount top (as is being discussed in different comment).

Overall great creation, I love the looks of it. Will post a make, when I finish the X-axis (only thing missing) :)

I upload my old one and new. It’s not fit with heatbed use screw on it. Has anyone had this issue ?

When did you get your printer? I know there was a heatbed mount update between my printer and what is currently out there but I didn't think it was due to the actual heatbed connector cables (in red in your pictures). Looks like Prusa made the connectors a little more robust.

I plan on updating the heatbed mount/clips this weekend, I can make sure it matches the newest Prusa heatbed mount as well. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

Ok - I hacked (ugly hack) up the v01 that was in the zip file in the files section. I added a bend, extended it, made it thicker and make it fit the screw heads and washers. I found it best to print it in this orientation with supports from bed only. Other orientations were ugly from the supports. I can supply the fusion 360 file if needed.

Sep-8-2018 - WARNING: this makes the chain slightly too high and collides with the bottom of the X- chain extension on the extruder when printing in the back left corner!

Hey guys, sorry for going MIA. I'll have an update later tonight.

I just received a replacement heat bed with the same style connections - any ETA for when an updated part will be available?

I bought it in July, 2018. I got update my hot end to gold e3d v6 so it use jack to connect. It’s not fit when I try to install. Can you do it more bigger ?

That would be awesome. I have the second heatbed thermistor wire breaking since I changed to chains.

OK - I have this working but I have an issue with the Y-axis chain sagging a bit and rubbing the zip tie on the back of the Y-axis. Has anyone else had this issue?

I uploaded a new version of the heatbed mount top and heatbed chain link. There's now an angle in the design so this should help get the chain clear of any interference with the rest of the printer. I haven't printed it yet, but if you could test it out and report back that would be awesome.

Nice - I'll give them a try. Any hint on orientation to print the new heatbed top? If I use the same orientation as the original, even with supports, I'm worried that it may not stick. Maybe a raft? Also wondering if just the angled link will be enough.

Yeah, I'm not sure what the best way to print these would be. Might take some experimenting.

You're right, the angled link may work on its own but the chain may bind up due to that angle.

I think you should angle the link the other way so that its undoes the angle.

Image is with just the new heat bed top. (printed flipped from the orientation of the original with supports from build plate). Did not use the angled link - which I think needs to be angled the other way.

Thanks for pointing that out, looks like I put the angle in the wrong direction. I'll fix that this weekend.

I just put my printer in an enclosure yesterday so I had to re-calibrate and I saw the same thing. I'm going to make something where the heatbed wires go at a 45° angle (or vertical) rather than straight back. That will also allow the chain to be on a plane rather than being angled (which I initially thought would avoid this issue).

How should I orient einsy-mount-cable-chain_rpi3_addon_A-01.STL for printing? I tried it the way the file downloaded, but it came out pretty sloppy. Does this require supports everywhere?

I printed it with the text to the top. So grill-side down on the bed. Support on build plate only worked fine. Support material inside the hex holes looked strange at first, but was easy to remove with some pliers.

Hi! I really like this design but I have an issue with where the z chain mates with the einsy case. It fits way too loose and falls out very easily. Any chance you can make the mounting on the case slightly smaller? Or maybe make one link that is slightly wider where it mates with the case.

That's not supposed to look like that :( Did you by chance print an old version of the Einsy case and a new version(s) of the z-chain? I updated the case/chains a couple weeks ago to thicken them up to get them a little more robust.

If these are both "fresh" prints I'll have to re-upload the new Einsy case .STL

I downloaded EinsyMount_CableChain_revA_ORIENTED.stl a week ago. Maybe I should use "einsy-mount-cable-chain_rpi3_addon_A-01.STL"? But I'm not adding an RPI. And the date on "EinsyMount_CableChain_revA_ORIENTED.st" is older....

Shoot, this one's on me. I completely forgot I had a non-RPi version in there still and didn't update it. I deleted that STL now so this won't come up again.

Using the RPi Einsy case without actually using an RPi is completely fine. There'll just be 2x unused holes on the side and an unused cutout on top.

I'm really sorry, but I think the quickest/best solution would be to print a new Einsy case. Since I dropped the ball on this and you had to print the biggest part incorrectly I can make a version without those holes & cutout if you want. Just let me know.

I really need to split this into separate Things (vanilla, RPi3, and RPi0) to avoid issues like this going forward.

No worries. I'll just print the RPI one.

I really like the design of the rambo case. Any chance you can post a version w/o the cable chain?

I can work on that. I'll keep you posted.

Sorry for the delay, but here's the Einsy case w/o cable chains. Let me know if you have any issues with it.

Looks really good. Can you post a step file?

Will this fit the new extruder design released July 17th?
The same day my printer kit shipped, btw. I got the old one :(

The design only seems to affect the x axis carriage, which didn't change in that update, so I would say this would work with the new R3 parts.

I came to the same conclusion, but it's nice to have confirmation. Thanks!

Thanks for looking into this. Unless someone reports an issue I'll just let the design roll as is.

I'm not sure on that one. I can investigate this weekend.

Do you know what was updated in the new design?

I'm a complete noob with zero design skills, but the files are here: https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

Lucas, I have a few questions. On the X-axis, is the 3mm filament necessary? I tried with the filament inserted into the hole in the box and then coming up through the extendomatic just like stock but the chain mount broke on the box - it seemed like the chain did not want to flex easily. I slid the filament out of the extendomatic and up just past the mount, still in the chain but allowing it to bend easier. I filed-down the link that connects to the extendomatic to allow it to bend backwards like shown in your first photo. Also, the clips, which way does the flange point? Does it matter? And then on the Z motor mount, I, too, have the Zaribo mod and had to cut off the bottom of the mount to get it to fit. That's not really a question, rather a note.

  • The 3mm filament isn't necessary, it just helps the chain keep its shape. If you don't have any issues without it, I'd just leave it out
  • The chain shouldn't need to bend back like my photo (bad representation on my end...). It's highly unlikely, but you could run the risk of the chain flipping over on itself and breaking when pushing the travel limits. Similar to the 3mm filament though, if you aren't having issues I wouldn't worry about it.
  • The clip flange orientation shouldn't matter at all
  • I actually just finished the Bear upgrade a couple weeks ago and the z-chain is no longer inline. Due to this, I'm going to have to introduce a "Bear upgrade" variant so I could possibly do a "Zaribo mod" variant as well.

I'm doing a Bear Upgrade also. Looks like an additional length of 14mm to Z chain motor mount and cable extendomatic parts puts it back in line.

Lucas...Lucas...this is such a freakingly-awesome package you've designed. I'm about 2 hours into the 34.59 hours it will take to print all these parts. Your attention to detail is outstanding. The time it must have taken to design, test, upload, revise, write descriptions, BOMs, instructions, and also to maintain is truly impressive. $20 coming your way cuz you're awesome (as soon as you set up your account to accept tips...or PM me your PayPal email).

Hey man, much appreciated. I'm glad you like the design! Let me know if you run into any snags or think of anything to add/fix. Summer has been delaying things a bit but my current planned additions are:

  1. Make a beefier z-axis chain link
  2. Make a Rpi Zero Einsy mount with access hatch

I am really waiting for this. I tried to combine your case with this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886648 but I guess I am just not skilled enough. After 2 days trying with different application I hust gave up :-(

Prusa i3 MK3 with door for Pi Zero W with access to the USB OTG Port

Working on this right now. Do you want/need the USB plug?

Hey, sorry for not getting to this and making you go through that.

After your comment I realized I was way overthinking things. I'm just going to make a simple door that fits onto the same hinges as the Rpi3 case. I'll need to make a cutout, but this should be a much easier approach.

I can hopefully get to this by the end of the weekend. Sorry again for the wait.

I would love to see something like this for the mk2.5. Kits are shipping now, and I will be getting mine in a week or two. I am not familiar with the physical differences between the mk3 and the mk2.5, but I would imagine that the Rambo Mini mounting and frame mounting points would be the biggest difference if they are different.

I recently printed all the relevant parts for my Mk2.5. Everything worked fine except for the cable_extendomatic, which is too wide along the X axis and doesn't allow the X-axis endstop to trigger and the HeatbedTop which is too short for the new heatbed cable harness, which is no longer soldered to the bed.

Rambo Mini case is identical as far as board and frame mounting go.

I haven't printed the RPi case yet, but very precise eye measurements estimate that it should fit :)

@llj3663: Absolutely incredible work, keep it up :)

Thanks for the info and the praise. I can try to fit in an extendomatic tweak that could work for both the Mk3 and Mk2.5. Any chance you know how much of the width I'd have to trim down?

Hi I made a login just to answer this question. The distance I'm getting is 4.07 mm. For now I've just bolted a piece of plastic to the cooling fan and I must lose that much distance on the x axis.

I've had success with another chain "holder" that is 10mm wide though it was a rather tight fit. I think you'd have to make the extendomatic taller as well, in order to fit all the extruder wires in it. Probably a tapered version would work best, with your current width at the chain link end, so the wires can fit through the hole under the cahin link, and 8-10mm and taller at the extruder end, so the endstop can be triggered.

If you drop a modified STL here I can print and test it on the Mk2.5 before you add it to the main project.

Also, I modified the heatbed top STL so it fits the new wire harness. Feel free to include it.

This is an awesome mod! I'm currently in the process of printing it for my new MK3 build, but was curious if there was a possibility of making an access door/cover for those of us using a Raspberry Pi Zero W board? It's really about the only thing I can see missing.

I can look into this. Do you have the Zero W directly mounted to the Einsy?

Haven't built it yet, but it will be mounted off the back side of the Einsy, according to the Prusa guide located here: https://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Octoprint_for_Original_Prusa_i3_MK3.

I know there is already an Einsy cover out there with a removable door: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2734810

All it's missing are the attachment points for your chains (which I should mostly be finished printing by later tonight, btw!) ;-)

Prusa MK3 Einsy RPi Zero Access

Ok yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'll add a variant that has that door there. Give me about an hour.

EDIT: Looks like I won't have time tonight to get this done. I will try to get something put together tomorrow night, I was just going to use the door from MoonDoggy's design but I would rather use embedded hex nuts vs. threading into the plastic. I'll keep you updated.

Does anyone know if this works with that LACK table enclosure?

I'm not sure if this would work. I can give you the max depth dimension needed in the y-direction tonight. Do you know how much space there is from the rear frame plate to the back of the LACK enclosure?

11 cm
The original brace had to be replaced by one that is at a 60 degree ange towards the y belt.
Maybe something similar can be done for chains?

It looks like you need about 12 cm from the back brace. I can try to come up with an angle, otherwise you could remove one of the links and push the wires further into the Einsy mount. There should still be plenty of cable chain length for full travel

I think I try the “missing link” and see if it works before I try to heap work onto your shoulders.
You think leaving the filament out might be a good idea? Making it a bit more flexible?

Yeah either leave the filament out or cut it a bit shorter. There isn't really a need for the filament on that axis due to it being pretty much impossible for the cable chain to flip over on itself.

With one link left out (and a thinner filament) and the display separately it just fits.
The heatbed brace by the way does not fit if you have the screwed on cables.

Comments deleted.

So far great design. Thanks for all your work on this.

I printed a few parts. The chain links aren’t big enough to fit on the motor mount piece on the z axis. Looks like the link adapter on the mount is too wide. I tried scaling the link up but then the dimples didn’t line up

I may have forgotten to update the z-axis motor mount at some point. I will check on that to see what the issue is.

Thanks for all your work. I’m going to use the zaribo x axis motor mount. Could you post the step file so I can modify it to fit the zaribo mount as well?

I can also fix the chain link. Looks like the smaller links are 75% the size of th standard links.

Sure, I will try to in the next couple days. What software do you use?

And yes, the z-axis chain link is a .75 scaled copy of the standard link.

I had the same issue, did a really hacky (tinkercad) edit where I removed part of the current motor mount clip connector and added the one used on the clips themselves, currently printing to see if this solves the issue (tinkercan did clearly display the motor mount clip part being wider and with a smaller diameter hole, than those of the cablechain)

The edited version attached here, allows the cable chain to clip on just as well as it does to the other cable chain links.

Some suggested changes:

The hole for the screw locking the Raspberry Pi case in place, is not deep enough for an M3x10, either update the assembly instructions making it an M3x8 (that fit just fine for me) or lengten the hole itself my 2mm.

I just forced my M3x10 through and it made a noticable bump inside the Einsy case, but it doesn't interfere with anything, so if anyone is having similar issue this should work (if they are using PETG, i fear if PLA is used it might crack instead)

Took awhile, but I finally updated the BOM for this to include an M3x8 SHCS. Good catch.

What is the meaning of "(as needed) trim Ø3mm filament" in X-axis - it means removal of current nylon filament I have in original spiral cable "chain"?

Sorry for not getting back quicker, but yes you're on the right track. All that means is snipping off the Ø3mm filament to the length required for your new x-axis cable chain. Going off memory, I think I cut off around 1-2 in off mine.


Thanks, I am printing parts now, but what I can see, there is missing clip for HeatbedLink_revA.STL it has different dimensions than standard link.

The standard clip works on the heatbedlink. The difference between the two links isn't in the clip area.

Would be cool to see a version with fan, usefull for heat enclosures, and a pi gpio hole to Einsy for direct serial connection. Great project!

Awesome idea! I'm going to be building an enclosure soon (after I finish pekcitron's the Bear upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408)

It may be tricky fitting the fan if you are using the RPi3 add-on, unless the fan is attached to the bottom possibly? I'll look into this for the next iteration.

Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade v2.0

Thank you for the work and effort included in this project. I have absolutely no patience to start working on this thing as soon as possible. Could you please somehow indicate what parts are completely safe to print and what I should delay before you re-design? Thanks a lot!

I won't be able to get to the redesign for a couple days, but the only parts that will be updated are the:

  • CarriageBack_revA-01.STL
  • cable_extendomatic_1_revA-01.STL
  • cable_extendomatic_2_revA-01.STL

As a side note, I haven't seen any issues related to print quality due to the carriage back design (addressed in Thing details) but I want to improve the design to eliminate any chance for x-axis misalignment.