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Iris Box

by tofuji Apr 14, 2018
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The nozzle 0.4 scale - 110-120%. The height of the layer is 0.2. Which model would you recommend? I did not understand the difference between them.

“NS_Iris_Box_fuji6.stl” is first recommendation, because it is easier to print.
Other 2 files are more difficult to print, but have narrower gap and get substantial object.

Printed this to test my printer setup. NICE! i had serious doubts as i printed it at .2mm layerheight (not the recommended .17 and 0.35 width...) and somewhat fast (80mm/s). Picked Fuji6_01.stl, as is, with my default settings and hit print.
Reading all the comments about how this is "a bad design" and "can't be printed" and "is delicate"... The design is great, and if your device works as it is supposed to and YOU calibrated it right, then this is a very nice piece. Could be a benchmark piece.
Good job tofuji.

To all the people that attempt this or have failed; go through a Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide. It just might make a massive difference to your 3d printing experience and understanding of the process.

Thanks MaracMB.

This model is only "modification" of original design by emmett to my printer, because I could not print original one for other printer in larger size.
That is to say, someone may not be able to print my model for their printers, and they need other models. This is pretty reasonable.
However, if someone can not print my model in their printer, I believe that they should get some hints for better model by comparing original design to my design, or printing 1/8 cut model.

All 4 ended up printing solid for me, so no go. No interest in wasting anymore filament on this one. I do like the design though.

Comments deleted.

Just finished printing and I can't get it to work at all. Not sure if I did something wrong or what happened.

Simply break them, and try to find out reasons.

How do you recommend we choose between the two new files?

The reason why I made this model is I could not print original model by emmett with my 3D printer in 75% size.
As you know, proper tolelance in models can be changed by "actual printing size", "3Dprinter and filament" and "print settings", then at that time I needed more tolerance than original.

This means

  1. If I print my file in 100% size with my printer, It may be possible to print 0.1mm thicker flap files, and get more stable motion of flaps.

  2. If I print my file in 75% size, It may be difficult to print 0.1mm thicker flap files, and get locked flaps.

  3. If I print my file in 150% size, It may be possible to print even 0.2mm thicker flap files.


  1. If you print my file in 100% size with your printer (and your printer is same as mine), results may be same as me.

  2. If your printer is better than mine, It may be possible to print even 0.2mm thicker flap files.

  3. If your printer is worse than mine, It may be difficult to print even 0.1mm thicker flap files.

Same problem as XenZen describes - outer shell lifts up a tiny bit and all the leaves fall out of place. Quite delicate - be careful opening! Printed 100% at 200 micron. This was magical the two times it worked before breaking.

Can you re-assemble the leaves?
I have got same problem at first time, but I could re-assemble them.
Then from second time, I rotete the outer shell with bit down force (to prevent lift up).

damn, not a good model, printed 9 hours in abs .. and leaves dropped after overtightening or lifting.. I managed to assemble them, in the closed position (fully extended leaves), you have to find it where the small hole on the leaf is and connect to a dot on the inner part.. it's fiddly, turn upside down so they are extended and find the hole and the dot

Basically this model is difficult.
And almost reasons to fail print is not in model but in printer, filament or print settings.
Please try 1/8 model first, then adjust settings for your printer, then after you got good result on it, print full model.

So without any additional information, the answer is no, I cannot reassemble.

Maybe - do you happen to have a design file in something like Fusion 360 that shows what the model looks like on the inside? It's difficult to figure out from only looking at sliced layers.

Please see movies in "Summary" at top page.

And this is original model file from which I got STL file and above movies.

The model file is made by CINEMA 4D a 3DCG software, and you can open it with demo versions.

Iv printed it and it works, but outer shell can be lifted up and then the leaves fall off. its very delicate

Yes the lift motion is quit large (1 - 2 mm), because it should be enlarged from actual gap (0.2-0.3mm) by trigonometric function.
Also the gap is larger than original design, to prevent fusing parts together.
To say other words, I thought "leaves fall off" is better than "all fuse together".

If you think that your printer is enough accurate, and your filament is enough clean, it may be good idea to use narrower print width, or larger extrusion. They change the gap and lift smaller.

Oh man!!!! Im really interestd in seeng yor printer. I have seen the photos you posd! Is there any website where you describe its construction?

This time I used Japanese BBS "5ch" to develop and test my 3D printer, because it was easier to me (nickname "969").

Then from next version, I will present it here Thingiverse, and almost informations written in the 5ch may be ported.

tried printing at 50% size. all fused together. could you add some versions with increased tolerances. preferrably double the tolerance in the original model then when you scale it down the tolerance returns to the original.

What nozzle did you use?
I have printed it in 75% size with 0.30mm nozzle, so you need 0.15 - 0.20mm nozzle to print 50% size.

Currently I have no plan to make variations which have different gaps(thickness, tolerance),
because it is impossible to make a model which can be printed properly by any 3D printers.
And this is reason why I re-modeled it for my printer.

  1. Try larger print (75 - 100%).

  2. If you want to print it in 50% size, use 0.15 - 0.20mm nozzle.

  3. Anyway use better filament which has no warps or strings like CFR-PETG.
    I could not print it with other filaments.

  4. Start from 1/8 cut model, then find best print settings.

  5. In step4, If necessary, adjust gaps, or completely re-model it in your modeler.

Good luck.

what size for 0.4mm nozzle ?

is there any reason as to why you had part of the print off the build table by 0.08mm i tried printing but had a lot of trouble with the layers and then realized it was offset from the build table not sure if you had it like that on purpose or not?

I am sorry, this was my mistake. I do not know when the mistake was made, but I just fixed it and uploaded.

don't be sorry its all good just wanted to make sure i wasn't going crazy haha

Any tips on getting it to spin?

No tips. Just after I removed it from glass table, It spined.

However, I failed 1 time to print it before. It stacked all parts.
So I made 1/8 cut model to know what is wrong, and best print settings for the model.
Also I changed the data a bit, and printed it 2 times.
Then after I got perfect print which have no stack area in faces and pivots,
I tried again to full model.

I uploaded the 1/8 model, so please try it first.

That's one of the cleanest prints I've ever seen! What printer are you using and what filament? I love the matte black!

I am using hand made 3D printer, and 3DXTech CFR-PETG filament.

The filament is best one I have ever used. Fine (up to 0.15mm nozzle), no warp, hard but not breakable.

My printer is small Plusa i3, and unique points are,

  1. Screw drive in X, Y axis.

  2. One Z motor drives 2 Z shafts, through timing belt.

  3. Simple glass table without heater nor height adjusters.

  4. Duralmin(A2017) plates frame, and Acryl enclosure.

You need to market your printer design. I wouldn't dare use filament that costs that much without a printer so highly tuned and reliable as yours. But, like high end lenses for DSLRs, chasing the final pixels costs a lot.

I am thinking my printer is still not enough. I will add one more head/nozzle, and add stop valve in the nozzle to solve ooze problem. Then I will present all designs/drawings here, and sell some printers.