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JanSchelkle

EPF Fang for CR10

by JanSchelkle Apr 13, 2018
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The fangs touch the silicone on the heater block. To the author: A very minor change would correct this. Simply raise the area where the screws go thru to the heat sink and slightly elongate the holes. This way when the hot end is attached to the printer, the EPF Fang can be adjusted up or down to have clearance. I took a drill bit and very slowly elongated the holes on mine. (See the image attached) The holes are close to upper edge where if I elongate them any more I run the risk of breaking the part. The second photo shows the slight clearance I was able to achieve with my modification.

As is The part printed on my Ender 3 Pro in about 5 hours. Its an awesome design and printed well. The images I took do not do it justice.

Please consider my idea and update to your design. I'm looking forward to testing this. The ability to see the nozzle and my prints is great. Thanks.

Comments deleted.

The fangs touch the silicone on the heater block. To the author: A very minor change would correct this. Simply raise the area where the screws go thru to the heat sink and slightly elongate the holes. This way when the hot end is attached to the printer, the EPF Fang can be adjusted up or down to have clearance. I took a drill bit and very slowly elongated the holes on mine. (See the image attached) The holes are close to upper edge where if I elongate them any more I run the risk of breaking the part. The second photo shows the slight clearance I was able to achieve with my modification.

As is The part printed on my Ender 3 Pro in about 5 hours. Its an awesome design and printed well. The images I took do not do it justice.

Please consider my idea and update to your design. I'm looking forward to testing this. The ability to see the nozzle and my prints is great. Thanks.

how about CR-10s? did anybody try if it fits or do the fangs touch the heatblock?

I think you fan works very well it there seems so be a bit much back pressure.
Is there any chance you can make the inner holes a bit bigger or perhaps increase the length of the fan shaft by a bit.

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Is this working on the CR-20 pro and can you still use the original BL touch bracket?

It seems these fangs blow air directly onto the nozzle? Please correct me if im wrong.

I have a question?
I just installed Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX Premium but the other fan stopped working, can you help?
Thank you.

You may have broke the solder joint on the "other" fan
OR
The wires come into contact with each other creating a short circuit.
The insulation has been stripped for far too back and by moving the wires they may touch each other.

Fingers crossed it's not the latter because shorting the fan wires could fry your 3D printer's logic board (I'm not an expert but arduino boards do fry for this reason.)

I have the very same NF-A4x20 fan installed too and I had a close call too but it was still working when I noticed.
See attached photos for details and how I fixes the issue.

Hope your board still works fine and it is a smaller easy to fix issue for you.

Good luck!

Thank you
I fixed it now is working thank you for your help.

Comments deleted.

Seems pretty great but I have CR-10S. Any idea when you have time to make S version?

Great and very compact design! Thats excactly what I'was looking for! I need a CR-10 Extruder body for my first try on my HEVO.

I just printed this out and mounted it... the fangs touch the heater block so this might be an issue since I printed in PLA... any chance of a modification file somewhere? Or a remix?

I printed mine in black PLA on my cr-10s400. I have the version for the micro-swiss all metal hotend.

I made a few prints and then pulled it to examine the blower openings that seemed very close to the heater block. I noticed that both the left and right side openings are melted and deformed.

I print all PLA between 210 and 220c.

I really like this design. However first one I made started to melt. I made another using white filament, then sprayed the inside & outside with two coats of silver engine paint. Then I lined the inside where the shroud bolts onto the heating nozzle using silver tape used for duct work.
Have printed several items taking over 7 hours to print, no problems. One important note, I did order the fan that was recommended. Wow,
very nice and I think that made a big difference in prints and keeping the shroud at the right temperature. (Thanks Paul McMaster)

Easy to print design. Bolt holes are good to go. I have a CR-10s with a replaced hot end so it should be stock CR-10. I took off the ceramic insulation and put on a silicon sock. That sock transferred the heat to the fangs and they deformed in 2 minutes. They barely are open. I will grind them back so they clear the block.

I'm guessing this would fit the CR-10 Mini too?

Would this work for an Ender 3?

Yes, it works.

I haven't tried it yet, but it should fit the Ender 3 since it uses an identical hot end to the CR10.

Any chance of a remix or update to use a blower-style parts cooling fan?

Awesome Fang! thanks JanSchelkle

If i have time i can do this!

Has been working great for me. Only thing would be that I wish this could be mounted onto the x carriage through the holes that were used to mount the stock sheet metal fan mount?

I feel that even with some threadlocker that the two screws going through the heat sink are a bit too flimsy and needs additional support to triangulate the mounting points? Perhaps adding a little extra bracket to the left of the epf fang so a single screw can be used to bolt through it?

Other than that this is a really solid design! So Thank you!

Hi,

im planning to do this, but i have so many requests that i cant do at all, can you do it if i send you a step?

edit:
What are you using to hide the Fang? ^^

Trying to assemble this but just realised that it doesn't fit with a silicon sock on the heater block :(

you got a CR10S?

Hi, sorry I don't think you replied, is having a CR10S an issue? Thanks

some cr10s hotends are longer than the cr10 hotends.
Thats why the sililkon sock dont fit at your system!

The fangs touch the hot-end on CR10S printers and will melt. :S Slightly longer fangs would solve that problem. Bonus: Will give the extra room for a silicon sock too. :)

Thats right, i will do that, how much longer?

3mm? Willing to test it for ya :)

Yeah I do, is that the problem?

Does anyone know if this will fit a Micro Swiss all metal hot end?

someone added a micro swiss version!

Anyone printed with PLA? I'm still using the stock on my CR10s. Curious about these fangs and would like to try this one as it seems less complicated and easier to print.

I used PLA on mine and it works great. You will need longer screws to attach to the carriage and I would recommend flat washers to spread the clamp load. This prints up great and only used supports from the build surface.

It printed great on my stock CR-10 but I added a raft, which was a mistake. I couldn't remove the ~1.5mm layer but will try the duct anyway since the "fangs" printed great and airflow is very consistent. As with any fan mod, I planned on reprinting this part again anyway!

Thanks for the easy-print design. On my previous printer, fan ducts were a bit of a catch-22 because the printer needed one already installed in order to be able to print one!

When is going to be released the axial fan?

Do you need to use abs or can you print it in pla?

PLA works just fine!

Nice design but I dont like how the "fangs" are touching the heater block. Any possibility of a version with slightly more clearance around the heaterblock?

LIke me you probably have a CR10S. I'm hoping Jan will make a version with longer fangs to solve this problem. My fangs started to melt.. :)

Would be great to have a 50mm fan version, or the cad files to mod it.

I did a build of this here... working great:
https://youtu.be/ypP7h7ShfDs

Nice fang, the supports were easy to remove. Just did a quick Test with an overhang test and the result looks good so far. But I've noticed, there the 200 mm M3 bolts I've used become loose very quickly - an so the hotend. Is there any workaround? I want to avoid using Locktide, because my screw heads aren't of the best qualitiy and the fray very quick and I fear that I can't get them out after some time.

Almost one week using this fang.
Is working quite good, but the fixing system with the same bolts of the hotend is really bad; I mean that the hotend continuosly became loose because the screws are thightened on the plastic. Try think a fixing system on the x carriage.

Is also on my List!

How many screws are needed, and what kind? 20mm 3m?

The design itself is nice, but the air for the heat sink is blown everywhere but onto the heat sink...

Anyway, I will print it out and test it on the field.

Will you make the version for not radial fans?

Yes it is on work!

Oh! so cool! when you think you will drop it? (my fang just broke because i force it... so im waiting to see your project... however if it take time i will print my ancient fang ....)

Any chanse that you vould make one for the
E3D-V6-J-head-Hotend?

dont have that hot end, send one to me and i do it!

Sure, will do that in the future!

NIce :) ordered one the other day, but printing it now for the stock version. Looking forward to testing it ;)

New favorite fang! Only issue is i didn’t have any 20mm 3m bolts. So I used a dremel to recess my stock 16mm bolts to mount it.

Nice to hear!

glad to hear that!!! Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Do you plan to add an EZABL bracket to this one? Looks interesting!

is also on my List.

GSDownney - I am using the OEM EZABL mount. Seems to work just fine.