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Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover

by Rocco81-92 Apr 12, 2018
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Does it also support the Ender-3 Pro model?

perfect fit on my ender3

Thank you ! it just fits Perfect !

I printed a remix with honeycomb piercings and lots of other venting. When I went to mount it using the factory screws, I found a grounding connection to one of the screws on the board. The PLA would have prevented the grounding connection to occur. At least that's how I saw it. So I passed.

Thank you for the design. It's elegant.

Thanks for this input, I'm going to pass as well just to stay on the safe side. You're saying that by using the cover, there's a grounding connection that is broken because of the plastic case? Can the designer share input on this?

I'm probably wrong but yeah there's a path that runs from the circle for the screwhead further into the circuit. I can't imagine the board not being insulated there and the actual ground is somewhere else on the board. But electrical problems are scarier to me than mechanical problems so until there's some feedback on my comment, I'm going to pass.

The thing that bothered me the most was there was only one screw that had that path connected to it. That seemed to me to make it a ground or other live connection. The screwhead would be blocked by the PLA layer.

There are thingies that only connect to the two screws on the frame. No other connections. Here's one I'm thinking of trying until there's some further comment from people here.


Closed Support for LCD ender 3

Maybe we should just skip that one screw?

Edit: So I just did it, I just used a Dremel to make that one corner sit flat on top of the screw, seems fine.

Hi! Which screws as the ground?

Look at the board, it's the one that has a line running up from it, I used a Dremel to make that screw hole bigger so the top of the would fit, that way it sits level.

(I think it's the bottom left but be sure to check, I don't remember.

Looks pretty good! Thanks!

I just purchased and setup my new Ender 3d pro. During setup I noticed that the z micro stop positioned on the upright post is not positioned properly. Probably due to the failure to upgrade the stop holder after adding the heated bed mat to Ender 3. Therefore the sop has to be re positioned downward to make the correct stop for the find home position. May I suggest that a printed upgrade to modify the switch be a good thing. Since I am new to printing 3 d may I pass this on to you?.

I used 2 m3x8 instead of 10 because I didnt have 10s in my kit and it worked fyi

Hi! Great design, printed well.

My only criticism is that I printed the factory screws without bell option because I didn't realise I had to physically remove the bell from the PCB. That's not something I want to do, but it would have been nice to know that's what it was designed for before I printed it. It would be great if you could add that to the description so no one else wastes plastic because they don't want to remove the bell. :P

While we're on that topic, what do you think of a version where the cover sits against the bell to silence it? It couldn't use factory screws, I assume, but it would be a compromise between removing the bell entirely and making it quieter.

Yep, I just did the same thing....

Thanks for the design work. My third print on and for my Ender-3. Printed and works beautifully.

This was my second print after the dog. Used the factory screw version because I'm lazy. It fit perfectly, really cleans it up. Thanks!

Does this fit on an Ender 5?

Thank you. Did the one with factory screws and beeper opening. But your file naming is wrong. Name was "with bell closed"

no no, is all correct.

with_bell and without_bell are the two versions.
This closed at the end means the frame over the socket ;)

Perfect, don't know what happened to who's reporting problems with the model, to me is a perfect fit: no trim, no modification, no anything needed.

@Rocco81-92 Just came here to say thanks to the Original designer, now can you make it whistle when the saints go marching in and change colour according to my mood... and make it snappy. ;) (printed at 0.3mm and 200% speed, no point wasting time for utility prints)

@DeepOvertone, nope, only thing in there is a back lit LCD module, a clicker pot and the lcd driver chips, no power circuity, nothing that needs cooling, one bit of advice, try backing the screws off a little and use a little compressed air (or a good blow) on the connector header in case it's dirt.

@Foxa, well they may not need cooling under normal circumstance but one of the driver blobs on my board got hot enough to melt the light spreader under the LCD. I can take pictures to prove it. It must have been faulty from the factory. It is being replaced under warranty from Sainsmart.

I see, well the display backlight is about 100mA at 5 volt so half a watt tops under normal usage , should only ever get 10-15 c over ambient, I wish you well with your faulty replacement.

Has anyone reported a dead display while using this cover? My display died and I wonder if it was because of this cover causing it to over heat.

It may have been just a faulty display all along but part of my LCD definitely melted. Thankfully its being replaced under warranty.

To be clear: I am not out right blaming this cover for my display over heating. I am merely asking if anyone else has had their display burn out while using this cover. The cover may have had nothing to do with it. Thanks

@DeepOvertone, nope, only thing in there is a back lit LCD module, a clicker pot and the lcd driver chips, no power circuity, nothing that needs cooling, one bit of advice, try backing the screws off a little and use a little compressed air (or a good blow) on the connector header in case it's dirt.

I have Two machines running this exact cover for hundreds of hours, no problems here. LCD Displays should not even need ventilation, they do not produce that much heat. I have a display that is totally enclosed and it is working fine as well.

Thanks for the reply. I agree that it shouldn't have needed cooling. In my case, I believe the LCD driver was faulty from the factory. It eventually died and got hot enough to melt the light spreader under the LCD. Oh well. I'll run the cover on the replacement LCD because I dont believe it had anything to do with my original dying.

Cannot get past the first layer, the walls around holes are awful.
Printer is Ender 3. MakerBot PLA, tried two different rolls. I had good luck with several other parts (several with smallers holes).
any suggestions would be appreciated.

Looks like either under extrusion (your screenshot shows you changed the flow? Did you do this based on calibration, or?), or your nozzle isn't close enough to the bed.

Flow is based on Calibration, I also print at 100% Flow on initial layer. I think the problem was nozzle was too far from the bed, I did a first layer test print and it was awful. Thanks for getting back to me.

Comments deleted.

What are the recommended print settings for the 3 connector bell model?

Does anybody could print this thing properly ? Because I tried many times and the screw holes are always a mess !
Could you show me a model that can be printed without this fail ?

Tighten your x-axis belt (the one with the nozzle on). That will correct the circular printing.

Ok, so I tried printing this as one of my first prints and it printed beautifully. Then I tried to remove it from the bed and the whole thing crumbled in my hands. Any idea what I could've done wrong? It was printed using PLA that was strong on other prints. I used Slicer to get the gcode. It was a .2 layer height with 3 layers on top bottom and sides. Please, any help would be appreciated

I see that the one without buzzer hole doesn't actually fit unless you remove the buzzer with a soldering iron, something i won't be doing any time.

D*mn! Should have read this before printing the version without hole -.-
I was already wondering why I couldn‘t get the thing to fit ...

That's what it was meant to be.
Without hole = remove buzzer.
With hole = for buzzer

I removed my buzzer and therefore mounted the cover without a hole.

What are the height dimensions? I want to print this 2 tone and would like to split the shallower bottom dimension (near the knob) in half?

Thank you, but unfortunately, the screw heads are too big on my newly purchased Ender 3. I would gently drill them up, but it went wrong. Better luck next time :-)

What is the diameter of your screw heads?

The screw heads are 5,5 mm. Bought last week from Germany

Adjust your printer and your slicer correctly and 6.5mm holes are also printed with 6.5mm diameter.

The holes are suitable for the screws. If the holes are too small in your print, then my model is not the problem. The holes in my part have 6.5mm diameter.


I used the wrong file, now it fits perfect, thank you

I am new to 3D print. I used a layer size 0,1 mm, maybe it's my problem, I will try with 0.2mm

This is bang on. Printed the version to use factory screws and its perfect. Thank you!

What is the stl of these thing please ? I cant find one that works...

I used the file from this page. In particular the one to use factory screws with buzzer hole. Print with supports and your holes will be good.

Thank you for this wonderful work.

Thanks for this design!
I just printed the Factory screws with buzzer
and it didn't even take me two minutes to fit it, no adjustments at all

Comments deleted.

Ender 3 models now has 5,6mm head screws, so the factory screws version aint gonna work. Before printing that version its important to mesure the size of the screws.

Just FYI, I just got my Ender 3 last week and printed the factory screws version with no editing of the model. Fit just fine.

nice too know, but the holes in my part for the factory screws have a innerdiameter from 6,5mm

Sorry, the screws are 5.65 actually, it leaves .85mm space.. not too much margin of error.. but maybe try with brute force or buy the screws and print the first model..=)

Adjust your printer and your slicer correctly and 6.5mm holes are also printed with 6.5mm diameter.

As I said, the holes are suitable for the screws. If the holes are too small in your print, then my model is not the problem (otherwise I would have liked to change it immediately)

Lets do this, im gonna print it and let you know. At this time i dont have printing size problems, so this print must have those 6.5mm when done. I let you know the results.

Rocco, I guess i had the problem with a remix. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100), my mistake sorry. But ive printed again yours and fits, quite tight but it fits ok. The printer messure its ok btw. Maybe a 1 mm or 0.5mm wider diameter will help with not so calibrated printers.
Thanks a lot and great work.

ENDER 3 FACTORY SCREWS display rear cover

All right, just wanted to know where the problem was.

For criticism, I am always open;)

Hi Guys, I just had a weird problem, the printing was okay for 2 hours and in the final 30 min the extruder went backwards and ejected the filment, any idea of why?

Printed the version with factory screws and hole for the buzzer. Really nice design. Thank you!

Both the factory screws versions have the buzzer hole.

For real? I will check and fix this tonight. Thanks for the information.

Have you had time to fix it yet?

sorry forgot it.
Have just changed and re-uploaded.

Awesome, thank you!

hello can you share the step file? or the lcd model? thanks

nice design fits reallt well, dont know where you guys are getting bell from though a bell rings a buzzer or sounder beeps :-)

What is the optimal screw size to attach the cover?

If you like to use the factory srews, use this one:


or with silent buzzer


ENDER 3 FACTORY SCREWS display rear cover
ENDER 3 FACTORY SCREWS display rear cover extended beeper cover hole
by TalZiv

2x M3x8 and 2x M3x16

Hi guys, I have just started printing and when I tried to print this it created a mess after the angle of the wall changed on the bottom part (around 30 layers up). I didn't add any supports, as I thought the angle was doable (20 degrees). Any help would be much appreciated.

Settings used.

Nozzle - 200 degrees
Bed - 60 degrees
layer height - 0.2
Wall thickness 0.8
No supports
Print speed - 60 mm/s (could it be printing too fast)
Stuck to the bed fine.

Am I supposed to remove the bell? Is that what the one without the bell is for?

You do not have to remove the bell.
I have uploaded versions for with and without bell.

Removing the bell is easy. Heat the two solder contacts on the top and pull the bell down. It can then be mounted again at any time.

I was annoyed by the beeping.

Also interested on how tout remove the Bell

Thank you so much. I was worried about pricking my fingers/getting zapped or damaging my lcd board. Gonna print one out ASAP,

Yes I did not like the open board.
Nice that my cover so many like!

A good addition to this would be a few differently positioned slots for a SD extension holder. I'm not sure if an extension cable holder has been made yet for the Ender 3, but it definitely needs one of those microSD to SD extension cables. It's hard to get good visibility of the microSD slot and there is sizeable gap above the slot. I've lost my card twice into the gap before I finally got the cable. With the cable, life is much easier.

Ender 3 - Micro to SD Card Holder found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917151

Ender 3 - Micro SD to SD Card Holder

I'd a version that just covers the bell, muffling it a bit more. did you cut your bell off?

I shoved some silly putty in the hole for the bell, it does quiet down a bit, but I would leave the bell covered to muffle it down some more. Before I did that my wife would hear it at night in the bedroom upstairs.

Comments deleted.

To designer: I suggest editing the title to include "Ender 3 LCD Cover" as well as I would think that's what people would be searching for not only "display" I tried finding this for a bit ended up having to have a youtuber link me to it :)

Do I need longer screws?

Yes, 2x M3x8 and 2x M3x16