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Original Prusa MK3 - Raspberry Pi 3 + HAT and Raspberry Pi Zero Einsy Rambo Box

by kalleknall Apr 11, 2018
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is there a wire to go from the pi to board or is it done from pins?

For direct connection you can connect for example PIN 4 from the GPIO Port of the PI to PIN 2 on the Serialport of the EINSY.

4 -> 2
6 -> 4
8 -> 6
10 -> 8
15 -> 13
16 -> 14

please scroll down for a picture (prev. Post)

does anyone have this but with some fans. im going to be building an encloser and this was EXACTLY what i needed but i want to add a few fans to it and have them intake from out of the encloser

When the raspberry pi is powered from a HAT or stepdown driver (fed by the 24V directly), why is PIN 4 of the Raspberry PI (+5V) connected? You connect in this way your 5V generated by the HAT to the 5V generated on the EINSY, which leads to currents from one to the other, in case there is a small difference in voltage generated.

Wouldn't it be better to leave Raspberry PIN 4 disconnected?

Very nice design. I have 3 questions:

  1. What is the best tool to edit STL files ?
  2. Is there any plan to modify and integrate a mosfet in this ?
  3. Me too, I am still trying to figure out the purpose of this long stick (cable guide). We need pictues :-)

Thanks for quick replies! Is the white/black wire the only wire that has to run to the PSU? And this powers both the Pi and the HAT?

Yes, ist power the HAT an step down to 5V for the Pi. If the PSU fail or turned off the LIPO holds the Pi an shuts down after a configured time.

I've seen other UPS Hats but they didn't have the extended power input (white/black) wire. Is this feature needed to power the Pi? Or is the Pi powered from the Einsy? What does the white/black wire connect to?

The Einsy cannot drive a B Model Pi ! My UPS/PI is powered by Printers PSU 24V (i've upgraded this)

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Can you link me to the HAT you used? Why did you choose to use this one?

This HAT https://shop.olmatic.de/de/5-usv-raspberry-pi for UPS Funktion to reduce the chance of SD-Card corruption after a powerfail or if i just power of the Printer ;-). The Blue LiPo hold the pi online to shut it down safley.

just printed this (havent assembled yet) and all the peices came out very nice, and the fit between them is perfect. hopefully putting everything into the box goes equally as well...

NOTE!!: for anyone planning to use a small 30x30 fan (such as this one i already had on my pi.... https://www.buyapi.ca/product/cooling-fan-5v-cooling-initiative-after-using/), it will not fit the fan hole at the bottom of the case. maybe thats obvious to others, but i somehow missed that fact and had to design/print a little adapter plug, rather than reprint the whole case.

I like the design and printed it, but I can't figure out what the purpose of the long 'stick' is?

The file has the german word Kabelkanal which google translates to Cable canal. So I am assuming it's a duct for some cabling?

Hehe... yes Kabelkanal means cable duct ;-)

I made the enclosure 2 days ago, and mounted it yesterday on my MK3, including the Raspberry Pi 3B+ and the PiCam. Ans it's working!

Very well made design! Thanks! (I will do an official 'made one' when I've done a few photos)

A few small issues though:

  • The power cabling from my PSU was almost too short. I had to re-route those cables at the bottom of the print in a straight way so I could just connect them. But I do not see an easy way to solve this in the design. Maybe move the EINSY 1-2cm lower? However, I could finally connect them, and it's working.
  • Mounting the case to the Prusa frame was difficult, because the bottom screws are very difficult to reach. A small hole in the opposite side could solve this (together with a long screwdriver :-) )
  • The same for mounting the Raspberry: the back screws I could not use. Partly because I didn't have any, but the space was to small for my flexible screwdriver. Only holes at the opposite side would have made it possible to use those screws.
  • The holes/mounts for the cable bundles entering the case on the top and side are just as tight as in the original Prusa case. Maybe enlarge them a bit so routing the cable bundle will be easier, together with the fixture of the zip-ties...
  • There is no foreseen slot for the PiCam flexcable, so I routed it through the hole where all cabling from the bottom enters the case. No big problem, but maybe foresee this in a next iteration?

I had some of the same issues.

  • For the PSU power issue, I drilled a hole in the case to route the power from the PSU in the corner where the 3030 extrusion meets the frame. Routing the cables through that hole, the PSU cables had perfect length.
  • Mounting to the frame could be solved the same way that the original MK3 einsy case does. Screw the two difficult screws partly in and slide the box on, then tighten the last bit with a hex hey. Then add the front screws.
  • I just gave up on the two back screws for the RPI. Maybe I'll revisit it later, but that one is particularly difficult without extra holes.

I also had some other issues...

  • The spacers for the Einsy board are poorly designed and break off rather easily. I broke one off. Some extra material around these (2-3 layers?) would help.
  • The cable hole/support for the X-axis appears to make the cable a bit more willing to get between the X-axis stepper and the frame. Moving it a tad further back and angling it outwards would help. Or just do as the original einsy, make a simple hole in the cover (einsy deckel).

Are the step files available, perhaps?

PSU Power Issue ? I've got longer and bigger cable ;-)

i don't have a STEP File, i've edited the original Case as STL.

How did you generate supports for this?

Slic3r created support. I only used support from the printbed, for the protruding parts where the cabling enters. All other things were bridged by my printer.

Thanks, I did the same. For some reason, the supports don't show up in Slic3r but I can see them in a gcode viewer.

I really like how you done the layout here, and really wish I could print and use it. I enjoy having cable chains working correctly though. If you could somehow blend the two, I'd be in heaven.

really nice case loved the design...one question though...can i use it for the MK2+pi3 hooked by usb??


i can't say something about this, sorry

STLs for the 2 biggest part of the box are messy, and won't slice correctly with S3D and some other slicers.

I had some trouble fixing them, but I managed with MakePrintable online tool (sadly limited to very few repairs per month on the free version).

Please find attached corrected STLs.

I use slic3rPE without any Problems. I've printed it two tlmes.

I prefer S3D for some reasons (including supports management), and I don't like Slic3r, hence when slicing with S3D, i'm having the faults you can see on the attached picture.

Also, you can see on the rendered view of Thingiverse (not the 3D Thingiview, just the static pic) that there is an issue on the model.

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Nice mod. Are you powering up the pi using the EINSY connectors or the printer's PSU?


i use the Printer-PSU. I've upgraded to a MEANWELL 320 PSU to have a powerbuffer.


Alright, is it the MEANWELL RSP-320-24? Did you manage to keep the power-panic function?

i use a SP-320-24, this is the cheapest PSU. I've only changed the fan to a Nocuta an printed me a new Case.
The Powepanik module is connected like the original PSU.

My Pi runs with a UPS HAT (S.USV) to let him stay online if powerloss occoures, an shutdown it safe if the Lipo is empty.

Thanks a lot for the info about your setup :)

Any chance of getting the step file for this?

sorry, i don't have a step file. I modified only the stl file from thingiverse.

Great design.. One question, how would you route the USB cable to the port on the top of the einsey board?

I don't use the EINSY USB-Port. The Rapsberry is connected by "direct connect". Raspberry PI <> EINSY RPI-Port. I'll design a dust cap for the USBport.

Sorry for all the questions, but does that also apply for the RPI3?

no Problem - yes !
4 -> 2
6 -> 4
8 -> 6
10 -> 8
15 -> 13
16 -> 14

just curious what pi you are using? i did a quick google search and read that for the 3b+ (what i have), its still recommended to connect them via the usb cable, not direct.

also, since setting this stuff up is all new to me, what do the #s above refer to? im guessing those are pin #s on the pi, and the corresponding pin # on the einsy?

I use a PI 3B i think… The USB-Connection on the EINSY is "converted" to a Serial TX/RX Signal. So why should i use USB on the EINSY ;-).

For direct connection you can connect for example PIN 4 from the GPIO Port of the PI to PIN 2 on the Serialport of the EINSY.

4 -> 2
6 -> 4
8 -> 6
10 -> 8
15 -> 13
16 -> 14

sorry, 1 additional point to clarify...

your parts needed list only mentions m3 screws/nuts. are you using an m3 to mount the pi to your case? my 3b+ will not accept an m3 in the mounting holes. it might if i turn them in, but id be afraid of cracking the pcb. m2.5 fits fine, but m3 will not slip thru. can you just clarify this? thanks!

thanks for the additional feedback. i guess theres no reason it shouldnt work, but i think you lose a couple of the features (power panic, filament sensor) when connecting directly...? if i read the thread correctly? or perhaps it was when printing thru octoprint in general, as the pi is not getting the information from those sensors.

either way, since this would be powering the pi from the einsy, i had intended to use the pi as a remote shutoff via a gpio relay. i dont think this would work so well if the pi was attached directly as it would all of a sudden lose power as well.

But, i take it since you are doing it, you are not having any issues? what exactly is your workflow for octoprint? im assuming you are sending prints directly, and NOT printing from the sd card?

if you're at all curious and you want to read the thread(s) i mentioned...



... which is where i read there are a bunch of people on the fence about if its worth it, and how well it works. so your real world experience here would be interesting to hear.

thanks again!

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