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PerspexAvenger

Vase-mode Component Drawers

by PerspexAvenger Apr 11, 2018
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There anyway we could get a walk through on how you did these (or a .f3d or solidworks file)? I'm wanting to do a partitioned pen holder, but i want to do it purely with vase-mode like you did with the housing.

Possibly also see salfter's comment and Thing down below for a customisable version you can play with to see the gaps and routing change as you alter values.

There's no magic-bullet in the way I did these, I'm afraid, though I suspect some conjunction of SCAD and Python could manage some scalable magic for generalised solutions.
If you take a look at the 2x2 frame STL you should be able to get a rough idea - to get multiple skins I'm generating a 0.1mm, I think it is, gap, and the parallel extrusions laid down in vase mode should naturally fuse after that.

0.1mm is so the slicer actually notices, as otherwise they tend to ignore the gap, and then it's a case of ensuring that all the solid portions between the .1mm gaps are sized appropriately that the slicer only has -literally- one path it can follow as it traces the STL perimeter. Which normally means that in complex areas the .1mm gaps are 0.4mm apart, as it's built for that nozzle size and I can predict exactly where it's going to go.

2 or three solid layers on the bottom, depending on how you're setting your slicer, and run it through until it looks right.
Does that make things any clearer?

I actually went and just broke down the whole "Spiralize the outer contour" and built around that. If you make walls that are .8 wide in a single, unbroken line you can make some pretty solid walls in Vase Mode.

I am printing these with a 0.8mm nozzle. Modifying the drawers is easy. just scale them but the cabinets are a problem. it "looses vase mode" when I use 0.8mm (I have tried scaling it but must be doing it wrong or something) I am betting I need to scale JUST the "gaps" to account for the double wall thickness size but I don't have the means to do that.

can you make adjustments for that or instruct me on how to make such adjustments? while they print just fine without vase mode they take SUBSTANTIALLY longer to print. :-)

I would also love to see Salfter's remix OpenSCAD adjusted to handle different nozzle sizes!

What are you scaling to? Anything below 200% would fail vasing, I think, if that's what you're seeing?

can the model be fixed to account for the 0.8 mm nozzle to restore "vase" mode function?

I don't want to scale it 200% :-) i mean i might do that at some point just for shiggles :-) in fact I am slicing it for 200% now

but I also want to print at 100% using the "much" stronger 0.8mm extrusions.

Ah, right - unfortunately not, the base model's not set up to be parametric/autogenenerated, so there'd be quite a bit of messing around.
However, the remix you mention does appear to support nozzle size changes, I think?

This is an idea good enough that I recreated it in OpenSCAD so that everything's customizable: the size of the drawers and the number of rows and columns in the storage frame. It took a little bit to figure out how to "trick" the slicer into following the right path and there was some cleaning up as my routines became less specialized and more general-purpose, but here's what I've come up with: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135777

Parametric Vase-Mode Component Drawers
by salfter

hello , great work ,
i have remixed a drawer with a label holder , you can add it to your thing if you want
see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3046179

Vase-mode Component Drawers

What filament did you use for the clear drawers? They're coming super transparent/clear vs other examples of clear/transparent filament I've seen.

Unlikely to be a helpful answer, sorry - it's CEL-branded "Natural Clear" PLA for their Robox printer, on a 0.3mm nozzle IIRC.
I don't know where they actually source it from, I'm afraid.

Could you print this with a bigger nozzle like 1mm and use wood filament? Had great results on the vase mode rocket .

Hmm... probably? I'd suggest testing your slicer at normal scale first, but you might lose walls that way.
Otherwise, scale up by 250% and I think it'd just work okay?

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow after work and will let you know the outcome

I am extremely impressed by this. I thought the boxes would be too weak but they are great and much quicker to print than other designs.

I always looked at the drawer sets on thingiverse and couldnt bring myself to waste that much filament or time, but these were perfect. At 80mm/s the drawers take a little more than 10 minutes and work really well. the frames seems like they'd be weak, but they are more robust than i'd have thought, even more so once bonded to neighboring drawer frames.

such a great drawer set.

I couldnt resist adding more sizes and it was easier than i though for the frames. Since fusion360 hates keeping scale of imported stl's i used meshmixer to split and scale and remix your drawers to suit my needs, but still such a flexible design. Thanks so much for sharing.

thanks ,nice design ,it boggles my mind that we dont see more like this.

any chance you could split one of the drawer frames into a single - to print out sliding match box type containers?

Or is that something I could do in Cura?

Honestly didn't consider that.
You'd get slightly odd bits on a corner doing that, though it'd sort of work.

I've added a 1x1 frame for you.

nope, came out perfect, thanks again!

Would you mind giving a quick tutorial on how you designed this? I've been trying to work out how I could make game inserts using vase mode, but I just can't quite figure it out. As you said, it saves a lot of time and filament.

It's mostly a case of setting it up so, assuming you know your slicer's "this is a perimeter" gap threshold, you only leave it one path to run, and make sure that the smallest solid area between two gaps is 2 extrusion widths worth, so it can go out and come back.
If you look at any of the frames, you should see thin cuts; if you import this into something that can do face highlighting you should be able to trace all the way around with no islands, and that's the same logic the slicers are forced into.

I use Slic3r and Cura, and of the two, Slic3r's vase logic is odder and gap threshold higher, so I designed for that, at 0.1mm gap width.
I did a full grid of 0.1mm gaps on top of the sketch for the frame, and then basically blocked off every intersection and manually routed it round and widened the gaps I wanted it to run through. It's... not high-tech, sorry :D

can we print the frame in vase mode also?

Yep, it's all designed to be printed like that.
Print as-oriented in vase mode with two solid layers (0.35 and 0.2mm) and your slicer should do the perimeters correctly if you're using a 0.4mm nozzle.
I'd recommend doing the 2x2 first to check there's enough material for the corners of the internal walls to fuse; if not, increase your extrusion multiplier slightly.

It's a very great idea!!! it will print way faster than other drawers.

i don't understand what you mean by 2 solid layers ? where do i have to put thos values (0.35 and 0.2 )?

It'll vary depending on slicer, but 0.2mm should be your normal layer height, and 0.35mm should be set as your first layer height.
Then set solid first layers to "2" and that should set you up right to start.

thank you very much, i'll try this tomorrow

Worked almost perfectly for me on the first try (just one box bottom in a 3x3 was not correctly connected and my floor / first few layers need a lot of improvement but that is due to my slicer settings, not the designs). I really like the smooth finish the vase mode gives and also the tiny amount of flex the drawers have to to the thin walls. Will have to add a make, i.e. make a photo soon.

Glad to hear you're still working on it.
Yes, spiral mode's weird, hence my setting suggestions in the Thing, as there's not an awful lot of leeway, but if you have alternates that work for other slicers please let me know and I'll see about adding into the info.