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3dprintable1

MKIII 50 Watt 3d printable Wind Turbine

by 3dprintable1 Apr 12, 2018
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The spring is a Pain in the ... can't find it anywhere!

This was the closest I could find.

https://www.mcmaster.com/9662K18

I cut it down to 80mm and it fits, but I haven't finished my turbine to the point of testing, so not certain it is stiff enough.

I've run into a problem during assembly, the shaft is not long enough to reach the 2nd bearing. I think this has to do with the thicknesses of the flanges for the bearings I have. Dan, can you send me the CAD for the structure assembly so that I can modify that to inset the bearings for the shaft?

I've tried to do this with Fusion360 and MeshMixer, but MeshMixer keeps trying to smooth out the edge.

Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Hi, can you send me the cad file for the blade , I would like to make it bigger and to add a threaded rod through the blade go get more strenght.

Hello everyone,
First, thank you Dan for this wonderful project !
I finished to print all parts of the wind turbine but I have difficulties in the assembling parts.
I cannot screw the "nose cone tip" to the "nose cone". I follow the instructions given in the print settings. I used the ultimaker PLA with the ultimaker 3. I tried to print these parts two times but it's really impossible.
Somebody can help me or give me some clues ?
Thx

Hello!!

Can you tell me a commercial reference or a website where I can find the pitch bearings (PP_3011_01 PLAIN PITCH BEARING?

THANK YOU!!

Greetings.

I've been working on the project over the summer, and I have found everything except these bearings and the right spring. I could not find them in the parts list either.

I ended up designing a 3D printed plain pitch bearing, and will let folks know how that works after I finish assembly. I mistakenly purchased some partially threaded screws where I needed fully threaded and am waiting for a few more parts.

I adjusted the size slightly after a test print to fit with the over/under extrusion of my printer, so you may need to scale slightly.

For the spring, I found a similar 20" long spring that I cut down to 80mm in length.

Comments deleted.

I ran some tests on 42BYGHW811 motor (2.5A 1.8DEG) with a drill at 1650 RPM. I made a parallel connection and it produced 20V and 1.52A
DC current. 30 W of power is more than I expected, however I will have to see have it will perform in wind conditions.

I don't think it's a good idea to test with a drill. It's too powerful to see that the motor needs a great power to turn.

Does it turn when you run with it ? Mine doesn't. :-(

Hi,

thanks for this great work.

I want to make the wind mill a little bit quieter by transforming the blade top.

Can you send me the CAD-Files of the two blade segements "PP_5011_01 MkIII Blade Bottom" and "PP_5012_01 MkIII Blade Top" ?

If I will be sucessfull, i will share it here.

Thanks and best regards from Germany

Hi,

thanks a lot for this great project. Works really fine and looks good.

But i have got one questions:

What nice projects do combine with this wind turbine, for example a energy storage???

Thanks a lot.

Cu kami

Hi there,
I plan to build one and saw both, MKII and MKIII. The main difference seems to be the dimensions as MKIII is way larger (800mm?) than the other one. Because I don't want to build such a large thing (small garden, WAF, you know) I'm wondering if I should start print the small one instead.
Or is it possible to print this one and use shorter blades, so a smaller version? It should be able to load a battery and what I've read so far, power output compared to MKII seems to be nearly the same (appox. 5W)

Does a larger (dimension) generator fits also inside, like a dynamo or Gen6 generator (Thingiverse)? Or does only Nema 17 fits inside the housing?

Anyone know the best Nema 17 to use, I see it says to use a 2 amp version but that is only rated at 2.8V?

Im thinking of using a 12v (rated at 0.4A) one because I will only want to charge something like USB battery banks.

Open to other ideas though.

Also are the parts meant to be printed in the original orientation?

Well i made it, having some trouble with the rotator bearing, but besides that it has passed the mechanical test

Please help me choose the electric components, I want to order them locally and I am kind of newbie. I saw that the bridge rectifier diodes suggested in the xlsx file has the following properties:
Voltage - Peak Reverse (Max) 50V
Current - Average Rectified (Io) 2A
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Max) @ If 1.1V @ 2A
Current - Reverse Leakage @ Vr 5µA @ 50V
but I can only find bridge rectifier diodes with average rectified current of 10A, Current - Reverse Leakage @ Vr 5µA @ 50V
These ones are ok or what stats should I look at?
Also, for the capacitors, any capacitor with 4700µF capacitance and 25V rated voltage would be good?
Thanks in advance.

While I haven't done this I can tell you that a bridge rectifier diode is a very generic thing. If it calls for those specs, they will be minimum specs. a 1n5404 for instance is a 4a 400v rectifier diode or a br106 for instance is a 10amp 600v bridge. the most important thing here is the voltage, make sure it can handle more than 50v and reverse current, make sure it can handle more than 2a

Comments deleted.

What length is the SP_1004_01 M6 Rod?

Hello Daniel

Thanks for sharing your excellent work
I have printed most parts, only blades to go.
I see in your parts list the NEMA Motor is a 17HM19_2004S
The motor I have is 17HS19-2004SI, would this do the job.
The part I am not sure about the slip ring sp_1006_01 is this part to be purchased and is there a drawing for this.
Thanks very much
Ken

Awesome job, and thank you for sharing it!

it will be my new shop battery charger!

Thank you again!

Hi, this is a great thing. I'm still in production. But 2 questions:
Is it possible to get the blades as one part?
Is the a break if the wind is getting to fresh?

Dan, absolutely amazing model and documentation. I've printed and assembled mine, turns smoothly but like others I am struggling with finding the right NEMA17 stepper. I tried a 17HS19-2004S1 but I can't get past 4V output on each coil in the regulator. Would you be able to share the stepper model you used in your build? I'm having a very hard time finding a match... and although this is a very active thread there are many 'I ordered this model' comments but very little 'this is the output I'm getting from that model I ordered' so it's hard to know what to order next.

Any insights will be greatly appreciated. Tks!

Hi

At the moment I am printing the MK II version. Almost ready with all parts. I print with Ultimaker 2+ and Flashforge dreamer. Wings and tailfins with Ultimaker and all the others with the dreamer - great result! Using simplify3d as the slicer software - was great help.

The MK III looks very interesting! Is there some more documentation for the hall sensor? It would be great if the pitch could be controlled by a servo or small stepper instead of a pressure spring - maybe controlled by an Arduino. This will be a great advantage - I will use the turbine in teaching energy production - in this case Wind energy - It could be a great featcher - it would make it possible to show how to regulate a windturbine and do some physics and math on a turbine

This looks very interesting. I am curious what the actual wattage is when it is running at various speeds. The title shows it as producing 50W, however it seems that most people can only get around 4-6 watts which is far from the listed specs. Anyone getting this to produce more wattage?

i just got a 3d printer and was hoping to build your wind turbine. it looks like a great project.
I was curious if there is a particular infill pattern that would be best for the blades for added strength?
thanks

does any one have any links to the bearings needed but in the USA?

I complied a list of all the parts I used for this project. Hope it helps.

thanks for this

That is interested, and I will be in the game soon as possible :) I hope :)

Is there a list of all electronic components which needs to be ordered and ~ costs ?

Which NEMA17 now to buy ? As I read all comments there is no conclusion which model of NEMA 17 one is suitable for this project ?!?

Dan,

I've finally gotten back to putting this together. I was fitting the location bearings when I noticed something in the drawings. There seems to be a backup ring for the main shaft o-ring. I looked in the files and did not seem to find it. Am I just over looking it in the files?

Hi Darklotus, its a rubber O-ring, the size should be in the parts list.

Thanks Dan

So the only thing in contact with the aft bearing is the o-ring? In the drawing there is a "red" part, in front of the o-ring, in contact with the shoulder of the main shaft.

Congratulatios Daniel, excelent desing!
Someone tried a nema23? I think it's possible to use it without modifying anything if the support of nema 17 is removed.

where are the blade print settings. they are not on the pdf for print settings?

At the bottom of the table Print_Settings.pdf
AS_5000_01 Rotor Assembly AS_5000_01 Blade Assembly

Thank you for the great design. At the moment I am printing all the parts with PLA (6 bearings in nylon).
I don´t know which NEMA 17 I should order.

  • 1.8 or 0.9 degree
  • 0.4A or 1.8A

any suggestions?

I am also busy printing all the parts. Nice project!

I was also searching for the right NEMA 17 motor. I have a

42BYGHW811 (2.5A 1.8DEG) When i power it up with a drill (1300 RPM) it produce on one pole 13.4V AC and 1.03A AC
42BYGHW811 (2.3A 1.8DEG) 15.2V AC and 1.07A (this is an other brand motor)

I will mount the rectifier and capacitors and messure it in DC and the two poles together.

I did the following measurements:

42BYGHW811 (2.3A 1.8DEG) with a rectifier, 800uF capacitor, both coils in series:

43V DC (free voltage), 0,87A DC (short)
18,2V DC, 0,41A (50Ohm load)
11,2V DC, 0,56A (20Ohm load)

All on 1300 RPM measurements on 1300 RPM

Thank you for sharing your results

yes -pls post the results

Please post the result.

how much volt and amp the wind turbine produces on average?

Power = Current * Voltage
Power = 50W

Hello ,
can i have PP_5011_01 MkIII Blade Bottom AND PP_5012_01 MkIII Blade Top in one Stl object . i want to print at once without screw hole and nut

pls read al the comments ... its al there

Thank you, found it and printed

Anyone have any recommendations for a charge controller for this to a 12V battery?

I also broke parts PP_2001_01 Structure and PP_3008_01 Shaft. I think that the Fill Density to Print_Settings.pdf needs to do more.

Also propose to include in the printed project protection of the bearing from the water. This will protect the bearing from freezing. (see photo)

Hello Daniel,
I've just found your GREAT WORK here.
That's for sur the right thing for the lightifying of my gardenhouse.

But unfortunately I cant find the correct partlist.
I just found the one you have in the Pictures here.

But there are (besides the generator) no exact types shown what exactly I have to buy.
For example which bearings do I need? Here are some Links in the Comments but I even don't know which model I have to chose their.

Well... it would be great if you can type the exact models so that I know what to search in eBay, Ali and co.

Thanks and greetings!

Hello, my turbine has been in place for a week now. I'm still a bit dissatisfied with my performance.
I have connected the rectifiers in parallel to get a high ampere output.
Unfortunately the turbine doesn't even make a 12v 5watt car bulb shine. The bulb glows only.
What do I do wrong, what can I still optimize?
I think that the NEMA 17 could also be a problem under load its torque is so high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJnfnsxhmg

Hello Abfl3, with those wind speeds you should have better figures for sure. There are some things to try;

Let me know how you get on and then we can go from there?

Thanks Dan

Hello, Dan,
Thanks for your answer.
My shaft nut is not tight and the rotor turns very easily.

I'm not sure how to measure the rpm as I don't have the appropriate device.

I made a video yesterday. The turbine is already turning very fast there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Voti9c5fMhA

But I only got a charging current of about 0.5 ampere at about 14 volts. I have connected the rectifiers in seriell....

Could it be that I ordered a wrong Nema 17 ? Are there any differences ?
I have attached the technical data of the nema17.
Wouldn't it also be possible to install a Nema 23? It has more power.

Hi Dan,

worst case !!!

...this happened for the second time!!!!!!

I think the wind was strong enough - today we had 5-6 bft

See picture

Is that shaft infill 30%, looks lower?

Dan

yes 30 % - I'am printing right now (with 50%)

What about my other answer (power of the mill)??

btw:
1 rotor blade flew 20 meters and got stuck in my neighbor's lawn ;-) .

which I also noticed. a weak spot seems to be the brake at 9.1 mm to insert the nut.
here is always a small crack.

Dan,
while printing the new blades i have testet my NEMA17 with the Drill machine ....
Without load i get 75 Volts.... with load i get 13.4 Volt but max 0.5 charging current .....
Drill machine at 1800 - 2000 rpm

Hi, first thanks Dan for you design. I printed blades using 110% scale get better start at low wind - and more power. But still same situation for me - Nema17 - under load only max 0,5A and 11-14volt. I dont have hall sensor - but I am tested very - very high rpm. . and broke my blades - now reprint "blade bottom" using 50% infill. Great desing - but perhaps nema17 does not have a good efficiency..

I think it's because of the NEMA version used.
I have the NEMA 17 (17HS16-2004S1).
It delivers about 13 Volt and 0.5 Ampere and has 45 Ncm at 3 Ohm on the coils.
I ordered the following from Amazon for testing:
NEMA 17 (17HS19-2004S1), this one had 4 ohms on the coils and delivered only 13 volts and about 0.3 amps.

I think the trick is to find a Nema that has less ohm on the coils ?!!?!?!

Which type do the others here use, who get the full power ???

ok, i have found an nema 17 with this specs:
Technical Specifications
Part No.: 42BYGHW811
Frame Size: NEMA17
Step Angle: 1.8 degree
Voltage: 3.1V
Current: 2.5 A/phase
Resistance: 1.25 Ohm/phase
Inductance: 1.8 mH/phase
Holding torque: 4800g-cm 70OZ-IN
Rotor inertia: 68 g-cm2
Detent torque: 0.28 kg-cm
Number of wire leads: 4
Weight: 0.34 kg
Length: 48mm

https://www.ebay.de/itm/DE-Ship-1PC-CNC-Nema17-2-5A-4800g-cm-42BYGHW811-4wire-Stepper-Motor-3d-printer/172932039046?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor

i have ordered it and will test and report.

ok, i have testet the NEMA :-(
0,86 Ampere with the drill

Hi,

I'm also testing the motor generation with a drill machine and getting similar results as yours... Aprox. 12V 300mA with coils connected in serial and a 40Ohm load. 3.6W, far away from the 50W... (drill running at max, but without rpm info).

The stepper I'm using is the NEMA17 17HS30010-20B, recycled from an old PrusaI3.

So seems that the NEMA17 version is really critical for the generator performance.

Dan, could you share with us the NEMA17 version used by you?

I also got 14 volts 0.5 A at maximum rpm.
I have the NEMA17 (17HM19-2004S).
At low rpm with weak wind only 5-6 volts. MKII gave out at such wind more volts.
Can collect the voltage multiplier?

So which stepper NEMA 17 motor to buy ?

Comments deleted.

Hello Daniel,

I've read some comments of broken blades, would it make sense to design them with an inner hole to place a carbon fiber rod from top to bottom to make them more robust to high wind?

I'm just starting to print the MKIII!!!

Great Idea Daniel.
I do that when I am making full size swords.

I am printing the Blades now and they are quite thin, The would have to be modified and made thicker to accommodate like let say a 6mm threaded rod or better carbon fiber rod.
Not sure how that would affect balance though.

Maybe a more flexible material on the outboard section so it can bend more? Or even a soft rubber layer between the two blade sections to lower the stress?

Thanks Dan

The Hall effect Sensor Module. I know it is optional, But does someone have a link or explain what else I need to get this to operate. Does the magnet have something to do with this also.

Hello what is the sunfounder module for?

Its a hall effect sensor that when combined with a RPi can measure the RPM of the turbine.

Thanks Dan

Dear Dan,

I'm printing right now - but i did not get al the parts.
I could not find the pitch spring.

Do you have a link where i can purchase this part ?

Dear Dan,
Is there a file with parts that need to be purchased?
I'm in the middle of printing

Hi, there is a list of part and links are in the comment train Ozyreusz.

I've done a overview of sorts of the turbine, i had planned to fix one blade but had a mishap so ended up doing a small overview and look at issues. https://youtu.be/Bq76btzNevo

Its what I had around me at the time.

Dan

Hey Dan you may have answered this but do you have a base output on your wind turbine?

would we get the links for the proper bearings,spring, magnet and slip ring in a single comment??? i seem to run across various options and i don't wanna waste $$ on ordering the wrong ones..

curious if this power converter be a good idea to help keep amps and voltage consistent for powering battery

thanks in advance for any info

RS Components in the UK. Exact ones pack of 5. I've just bought some...

Hey Guys, I currently ordering the non printed parts while printing and will appreciate if anyone can point me to where to get the correct pitch spring. Any Ali, Amazon or ebay link. Thanks

I can get the 6805 25x37x7mm bearings all day every day BUT not flange. Any alternative? I've been modifying my printer for 2 months even built an enclosure (for abs) and it all has come down to these bearings.

Aliexpress have them (5pk). Ordered but not arrived yet... they're usually good.

You could try creating a sleeve that fits between the two bearings, a nice tight fit should stop the bearings from moving inwards?

Dan

Today my turbine crashed. A gust of wind (very high rpm as result) broke one of the blades, the other followed.
Did anyone printed the blades in one piece, if so, i would like to have the stl's so i can print then also.

Tnx
Marc

Hey COMARC, what material did You used for that broken turbine- was it PLA?

Yes PLA. The new ones are printed in PETG and in one piece. The turbine is now on a testpole for about 4 month and everything is holding fine even with high windspeeds.

Single piece blade is stored with the other files.

Thanks Dan

Tnx Dan for the fast answer.
Sorry to ask, but, what other files ?
Is it in the .zip ? or am i missing something

Marc

Should be at the bottom of the 'Thing files' section, i've re uploaded so hopefully you can see it?

Thanks Dan

Sorry Dan, don't see it. Attached is what i get:

tnx
Marc

Tnx. Now, starting to print :-)

Tnx
Marc

could it be possible to get all the hardware, rectifiers and bearings all in one section. im trying to find the cheapest route possible to build this.

i have the mkii built but now i need more power for the shed and its killing me that i can't find all the proper materials. the rectifiers seem to be standard but i don't think i found the right ones.......

thanks in advance and i really can't wait to get this started.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-5mm-300Rpm-6-Wires-CIRCUITSx2A-Capsule-Slip-Ring-AC-240V-for-Monitor-Robotic/401051779987?epid=508615210&hash=item5d608c8393%3Ag%3Ay0gAAOSwubRXIYjK&_sacat=0&_nkw=12.5mm+300Rpm+6+Wires+CIRCUITSx2A+Capsule+Slip+Ring+AC+240V+for+Monitor+Robotic&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

^^^^ doesn't look like that slip ring would have thick enough wires for the mkiii.....anybody have a better one?

Hello, I don't understand what you mean by all in one section? Do you mean a parts list, if so there is one in the files showing all the parts required both printed and purchased?

Dan

found that hahah mean the capacitors i can't zoom in enough to see if its 4700uf 25vdc capacitor and the spring. sent u pm for the spring

How does the structure assembly print without supports? What orientation should the structure assembly be printed at?

Hello, print with the forward bearing position facing down.

Thanks Dan

thanks. I attached a photo. Is this what you mean?

Thank you Comarc your answers were greatly helpfull!!
Some time to get the bearings and other stuff and I will be ready to build the turbine!

Hi. Thanks Comarc. I printed the blades without problems. Now looking further, I found no STL file for the part named "location bearing" (SP_1002-001) that is in red on the structure assembly and rotor assembly..

-if is it a 3D printed part, where is the STL ?
-Is this a piece that must be purchased ? any link to find it on the web ? Is it possible to replace it with a 3D printed part as item 11 on the rotor assembly page ?

Thank you for your help.

those bearings were hard to find. thanks you so much for the link...... do u have one for the magnet used in the rotary assembly...little lost on those =[

Sorry, I did not place a magnet on the central axis.
My turbine crashed today, a sudden gust of wind and one of the blades broke in two pieces, then the other two followed, my turbine is now booming. If I am not mistaken, there is a .stl to find of a blade from one piece. need to do some searching....

It's a piece you need to purchase, if i'm not mistaking you can find a link in these comments, even one on ali express.
I'm not in favor to replace it with a printed one, the rotation needs to be (very) smooth.
Have to look something up, i'l try to send you a link.

What orientation should the structure assembly be printed at?

Hi, just looking at the blades, I wonder how you can print the parts without any support ? bases are very thin compared to heights and even with brim, I doubt that it can print vertically from bottom to top without problems .. Help appreciated !
thanks.

No problem.
I've printed them verticaly with a brim of 15mm.
Sprayed 3dlack on the headbed firts, they came out fine, even added a bit of colour.

Off-Topic: Love that AT-AT-Walker you're building :-)

Im printing this in petg

I've done the same thing. it's come out really nice.

Yeah. Its my first time printing with petg. Had some stringing issues but after turning off zlift on my prusa mk3 seems to print better.

I'm on the MK3 prusa also, I used the Chris Warkocki PETG profiles. Had really good success with these parts.

that looks pretty good. I'll give those profiles a try. What brand petg are you using. I am using white nova maker petg I got off amazon.

Mine is eSun. For PET on the Prusa I just ISO wipe the bed first then one layer of gluestick and never had an issue. The OpenRCf1 is another really good project to put your MK3 to the test.

With normal conditions how many volts and amps does it produce?

Hello, MAX power is approximately 50 watt, wired as per the wiring diagram provided its roughly 24volt 2 amp.

Thanks Dan

does it really need to be printed at 0.1 layer height. its taking a long time

no, I have done most of it at 0.2 . and used 0.15 for any internal pieces that look important,.

Hello CheetahGod, all the fits have been tried and tested at 0.1mm LH, by all means use a different height but you might have to spend some time hand dressing and making things fit and work smoothly.

Dan

How long is the m6 threaded rod?

I made an observation this weekend : if the turbine struggles turning and staying in front of the wind, you need a longer tail than 300mm.
Use a long rod then test and adjust the position of the tail.

Hey Dan,

The turbine is now spinning :-) Thanks again for this incredible piece of work !

I have a few issues that I will try to fix and share with you :

  • The wind speed needed to make the turbine spin is fairly high. While 3m/s is enough to make it spin freely really fast, it barely moves at 5m/s with the stepper motor.
    To fix that, I'm working on a small-scale Axial Flux generator based on Hugh Piggott's plans.
    I will use 2 iron plates, round neodymium magnets and copper to make a 3 phases alternator that should output at least 50W at nominal speed and deliver usable current faster. I'll keep you in touch as soon as I get results !

  • The other issue I have is : I used bearings like in the mkII for the pole. When the wind is stronger and stays strong, the turbine is at the begining in front of the wind then it turns sideways then stop spinning...
    My clues are :
  • the tail is too close from the front of the turbine
  • the tail is not large enough
  • the form factor of the tail is not optimal, maybe a simple flat plate is enough

I will work on that waiting for the components to make a better generator :-)

Did you ever get around to completing this yet?

Not yet, I need a better place to mount the pole leveled, with a concrete base. But my batterie are 24V and the Nema 17 delivers at best 16V. I tried putting a voltage booster but it doesn't work...
So I have to make progresses on the generator but I'm stuck with the steel disk, it still has to be machined...

I lack time at the moment !

Thank You for the reply,

Hello Bistory

  • I have the same problem as you. I tried simple flat tail and move tail backwards. But still turbine it turns sideways then stop spinning. Youtube https://youtu.be/znVMNmc9k8M
  • Turbine needs a big wind to rotate. Without stepper motor is going wery well. I thinking about planetary gears between motor and rotor??

Damn... So even with a flat tail it behaves the same :(
@3dprintable1, do you have this behavior in a real-world use case ?

About the turbine : the wind must be constant, if it is a bit disturbed, the motor stops or don't start. To be honest, I barely saw it turning since I mounted it in my garden...
I'm still working on an axial flux generator : I have all the hardware at home : I started making the coils and wait for the steel wheel to be milled (to be balances and lighter). It's very exciting ! I'm impatient to see the results I will get :)

Guys, what bearings are you using in the tower header, printed or purchased? If purchased i'd imagine they are 'free' and perhaps need a little resistance. You could try adding a spacer to the tower shaft to increase the end load on the bearings. I haven't encountered this problem myself but my turbine is positioned in clear air with no obstructions like the buildings in the youtube video, perhaps a different location might help?

Regarding the rpm/constant wind. Make sure you set the position of each blade perfectly aligned using the tool and DON'T increase the pitch by even one degree as this will cause the blade to stall, if anything try under pitching the blades (leading edge facing more forwards into the wind) by a few degrees this will give much lower start up speeds but reduce top end speed, you will be surprised by the difference it makes.

Also make sure you don't over tighten the shaft nut, this should spin freely when assembling and make sure the coupling is positioned such that its free to 'wobble' with plenty of clearance all round and doesn't add extra resistance.

Don't give up!!! a few tweaks and it will work great :)

Thanks Dan

Thanks Dan :-) I will check all you said and will try another location and give an other chance to the printed pole bearing (the turbine was almost never facing the wind, but since I mounted a bltouch to the printer, I should reprint these parts :)

PS and make sure the tower pole is perfectly vertical or the turbine will also tend to turn to the lowest point as its not balance front to back about the tower centre line (you could try adding a little weight at the rear of the turbine to make it more balance to reduce the effect)...

Thanks Dan

Yes you are right : my pole bends slightly when the wind is stronger... It's without any doubt the main problem with the commercial ball bearings. I re-printed the bearing you designed and I will mount them on a stiffer pole this weekend, it should help. I will also put a voltage booster as my charger needs at least 28V to start charging the battery bank :)
And for the Axial flux generator, it's still a WIP but I should have the coils wired this weekend !

Awesome history, let me know how you get on be really interested to see the generator you described!

Cheers Dan

Sure I keep you in touch. If I achieve great results, I'll send you a generator ;)

Hi!
Great design and nice work. Would this rectifier work instead of the one in the documentation. From what I can tell it is very similar to the vishay in the documentation. Thanks!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-X-VISHAY-FORMERLY-I-R-VS-2KBP01-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-2A-100V/351194721165?hash=item51c4d62b8d:g:TS0AAOxy8HlSa78n

Hello
I do not get the M5 nut in at the Blade Bottom, it's too tight.

Check if you don't have extra layers that cover the hole : I had to adjust 9.1mm height to something like 8.7 to make the nuts fit into the hole.

The hole is free

Then your filament is retracting too much (I used eSun PLA) ?

I used Janbex PLA

Try printing a calibration cube and check if the dimensions are correct. Otherwise, try with an other brand of filament... I had no problem inserting the nuts in the whole :s

Hi Dan,

I'm finishing building your awesome Wind turbine :)

But I have a little problem : One of the 3 M5x40 bolt used in the automatic pitch system is too free and the blade attached to it moves even if the 2 others are steady...
Can I put some glue between the crank bolt and the crank ?

Thanks for your help :)

I had this same issue, I made the hole in the crank smaller and this resolved the problem you could add glue or PTFE tape or model the hole 0.1mm on diameter smaller.

Thanks Dan

Im using superglue (ciacrine) and its work great for me.

I added PTFE tape but it tends to slip so I added a drip of glue, it's perfect now :)
I lightly glued the generator interface and the shaft interface to their couplier to avoid them to move and the star couplier to leave them.

Thanks PTFE tape is a good idea, it is reversible :)

Does this output 25 volts? Is there a reason 25 volts was chosen? How could I wire it to 12-13 volts for charging a car battery? Would I need 4 amp wires/connectors for that?

Thanks for this project, it's a perfect Dad/Son project.

You can wire it in parallel rather than series which would give you 12-14v

Do you have a schematics?

Dan has provided a circuit diagram in the documentation.

OK. and the plan is for 12V?

Klippi, try searching stepper motor generator on youtube, there are some good videos explaining the layout :).

Thanks Dan

Does anyone have any pictures of their wiring, i've wired mine up what i think is correct but i'm getting 13v max at high speed. I have the two recifiers in series with two windings from each motor going to the center pins and the outside pins are connected to two capacitors which are in series also. The output is connected to the outside legs of the recitifiers and also the capacitors.

Can anyone see anything obvious i'm doing wrong?

Do you have an RPM Sensor installed Colin, do you know the max speed you are getting with the PvP settings? I run mine up to 2000 RPM, the spring from the MkII isn't really stiff enough using the RPM sensor you can tune this.

Thanks Dan

Hi Dan sorry for the late reply. I have fitted the RPM sensor but not wired it up as i have paired up the connections on the slipring so trying to think of how best to wire it up. As a side note the cabling suggestion locti gave me worked great.

I have just rebuilt the turbine as i'm using the old style tower shaft and the space between the body and mount was too big so I've printed a new one that is the same diameter but roughly 4.5mm thick so i don't get any wobble at high speeds now.

Yeah, you forgot the wiring between the capacitors and the rectifiers, watch my picture.

Thanks locti, I had thought as they were connected on their outputs it would be enough, didn’t realise I’d need a connection in the middle of the series connection. Will do the connection and put the turbine back out. Using a spare LS1024B solar charge controller so I can see the output at least.

Thanks
Colin

Maybe this is a stupid idea (and please don't hesitate to let me know if it is), but I was just thinking about 3D-printing the necessary O-rings in TPU 95A, as I don't seem to be able to track down any sources where I could order them.
Any thoughts on that?
Or... if anybody had a link to the needed O-rings (RS maybe?), that would be great as well.

It was cheaper for me to buy a set of O rings from ebay and they were in the UK so delivery was really quick.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/419-PCS-RUBBER-O-RING-ORING-SEAL-PLUMBING-GARAGE-SET-KIT-32-SIZES-WITH-CASE-4-34/282242200141?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

You could easily print them i'm sure though.

Cool, thanks! And this kit contained the necessary sizes, I take it?

Yeah it has the three required although i only used two since i used the older style tower mount. If your not in the UK it may not be economical but for me this was the best way as it was going to be a few pound each anyway and this way i have plenty for other projects!

Found this exact same set here in a Swiss online shop. Thank you!

Is the main shaft holding the blades friction fit? i cant figure out how it is supposed to be secured in place? Many thanks.

There is a nut which holds the shaft onto the nacelle

Well i finished building mine today and i have to say and extremely impressed so far, i've not actually hooked up any output to it yet but the pitch setting tool was a dream to use and the pitch change is so much better than the mk2 i built and also it's so much quieter. I took a short video of it in action if anyone is interest, sorry it's portrait mode.

https://youtu.be/gcWHsj9_-M4

Is it the same slip ring as the mark 2?

It's the same dimensions yes, Dan mentioned using a one with beefier cables and only two connections but i'm reusing mine from the mk2 and which had 6 cables and shall join three wires to make two beefier connections.

Printing is coming along fine so far and I was able to order the necessary bearings.

Anyone able to track down a suitable pitch spring somewhere? I had no luck on aliexpress, or at least my search terms didn't turn up the right spring.

Hello. Great project, surely I'll go for it to power up some remote equipment. But I'm concerned about heat build up inside the nacelle, I can't see any vent. Any comments or experience about this subject?

the back of the nacelle is fully ventilated with slots

I live in France and it's difficult to find a suitable UK drain pipe here.
We have 40mm, 50mm, 80mm.
I'v made a cheap pla adapter for a 40mm standard pipe to try my wind turbine.

i know you been asked this before. but if you do not mind someone please.
i am having problems getting my hands on the bearings, and can not order them just yet.
i made one set of bearings but they feel apart right after print. did not even get to test them.
i just need them to hold up to test this. not for long term use. i don't expect them to last long
the ones i need or MAIN LOCATION BEARING and PITCH BEARING,
also can someone put me in the right direction for the sensor. i looked for this one and can not find it.

o and i am running a cr 10. and atm using pla just for testing into i can get better stuff. just moved to nowhere land.

sorry i live nowhere, trees and bears say hi i no seen humans is 3 months. see way i need to make bearings lol
really not joking. but regardless i need help. can't do much into i get into town and that might be a bit.

thanks all for help. i gone into town today, but this amerikaner lol. there measurements or not same as where i come from and asking them help... they looked at me funny. like i live here. way not use there's. but what ever.
i going to order the other parts. for you all in usa lowes don't carry nothing lower then m3 50 home depo might have them but i not looked yet. and lowes has no clue how to read mm lol.

I've received the bearings in 12 days. You can choose between the pla tower bearing and the real bearing solution (MKII version, you recieve 5pcs/lot.(a little bit cheaper with the Aliexpress app )

the tower shaft was adapted for MKIII (thanks to Dan) :
https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:83110
https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:83109

While Dan's new pla tower is really nice and interesting, it can be difficult to get it working smoothly... I'm printing these parts to test the ball bearing solution ! Thanks !

This is the route I've went also. I had a MKII which broke so I've dismantled it fully and using the bearings from it as i think it will be better with a pre-made bearing especially as i already have it, wished i'd known before i printed all the base parts though lol. How is your build coming along?

My wind turbine is ok. I've to connect the stepper and sold the regulator system.
I've broken the rotor shaft by mistake, I re-printed it with 100% fill density.
The picture was before I print the 2nd tower shaft with real bearing.

Any way i can tip you in GBP? No sense me paying to convert it to USD only for you to pay to convert it back to GBP ;-) Cheers!

I've gotten my code up and running for the wireless temperature/ pressure/ humidity/ and RPM sensor. Using a BME280, NRF24L01, and the sunfounder hall switch. Now I just need to make it all fit! If I can get all this into the nacelle with some room left over, I might end up putting some type of wind direction circuit in there too.

For those who would like the circuit diagram and arduino code. It has been working perfect on the long term bench test. Still working on how I'll power it in the turbine.

Would you mind sharing? Curious how your going to power it as well

I'm planning on using two 18650 cells.

Thats awesome! Good job the nacelle has lots of space at the rear :)

Also ich habe das Turmlager gedruckt und sauber geputzt. Läuft tadellos. Ich habe allerdings die Teile sehr langsam gedruckt und eine hohe Dichte eingestellt.- bei Cura auf Wert -150! Hat einige Tage gedauert aber es läuft rund und tadellos! Bei den Rollen hab ich 14 Stück gemeinsam gedruckt, da haben alle ein wenig Zeit zum auskühlen und werden daher sehr sauber und rund.
Georgio

Hallo Georgio,

darf ich fragen, aus welchem Material Du das Lager gedruckt hast? Die Frage ist nicht nur, ob das Drucken klappt, sondern auch noch, wie lange das gedruckte Lager halten wird? Vielleicht werde ich es auch versuchen, aus reiner Neugier. :-)

Ksjonka

Hello Georgio,

may I ask, from which material did you print the bearing? The question is not only whether the printing works, but also how long the printed bearing will last? Maybe I'll try, out of sheer curiosity. :-)

Ksjonka

Ja , ich habe das Lager für den Standfuß mit PLA gedruckt. Wie lange es halten wird kann ich nicht sagen, aber es wird ja nicht so viel benutzt. Einmal abgesehen davon dass der Wind ja ständig die Richtung wechselt. Aber ich meine nicht so wie ein Motorlager auf vollen Touren läuft. Ich hab es mit Cura gedruckt und die Einstellung "0,1" beim Feinheitsgrad, -erste Zeile-, eingestellt. Schichtdicke 0,1 mm. Wie schon geschrieben, hab ich die 12 Walzern auf dem Druckbett verteilt gleichzeitig gedruckt. 8 Stück werden benötigt. Nicht jedes gelingt. Da durch hat jede Rolle Zeit, sich nach jeder Schicht abzukühlen. Dichte 50%. Rückzug hab ich nicht eingestellt, das ergibt zwar Fäden zwischen den Teilen, aber die kann man dann ja abfeilen und die Walzen glatt schleifen. Mit etwas Lagerfett läuft das Lager sehr gut. Freilich mit einem Metall Lager kann man es nicht vergleichen, doch es tut sicher einige Zeit seinen Dienst. Mit den gleichen Einstellungen habe ich die restlichen Teile des Lagers gedruckt. Langsam gedruckt mit ca 20 - 30 mm/sec.
Georgio

Yes, I have printed the bearing for the pedestal with PLA. How long it will hold I can not say, but it is not so much used. Apart from the fact that the wind constantly changes direction. But I do not mean that an engine mount is running at full speed. I printed it with Cura and set the setting "0.1" at the degree of fineness, first-line. Layer thickness 0.1 mm. As already written, I printed the 12 waltzes distributed on the printing bed at the same time. 8 pieces are needed. Not everyone succeeds. As a result, each roll has time to cool off after each shift. Density 50%. Retreat I did not set, this results in threads between the parts, but you can then file off and sand the rollers smooth. The bearing runs very well with some bearing grease. Of course you can not compare it to a metal bearing, but it certainly does its job for some time. With the same settings I have printed the remaining parts of the warehouse. Slowly printed with about 20 - 30 mm / sec.
Georgio

Hi Guys,

has someone from you used a real (not printed) bearing in the Tower Assembly?
What type of bearing can we use?

Many thanks.

Dan has posted a tower shaft which can fit into the MKII mount with the large bearing size used for the rotor assembly, it was in response to a similar question if you read down the messages you shall see it posted. This is how it was done in the MKII. I must confess i'm going to go that route, i printed all the parts for the new style bearing but it's going to take a lot of sanding and fidling and i already have the bearings as i made the mkii which I've now dismantled so may as well use them.

Hello chickey,

thank you very much for your tip.

Greetings from Czech Republic

Hallo Dan, bis auf das Teil "PP 3008 Shaft" hab ich alle Teile hinbekommen. Den "Shaft" und die dazu gehörige Mutter allerdings kann " Mein " Cura nicht slicen. Ich verwende Cura 15.04.6. Eine neuere Version kann ich auf meinen Computer nicht hochladen. Das Teil wird geladen, ich kann es auch zurecht drehen, aber es wird nicht geslicet. Gibt es eine Version dieses Teils, das mit dieser Cura Version machbar ist.? Wenn es das nicht gibt , dann helfe ich mir mit dem Schaft der kleineren Version des Windrades !
Danke für Deinen Antworten, ich war einige Tage nicht in meiner Werkstatt.!
Es wäre schön wenn ich alle Teile fertig Drucken könnte.
Grüße aus dem Süden Georgio

Hello Dan, except for the part "PP 3008 Shaft" I've gotten all the parts. The "Shaft" and the associated mother, however, can not slash "My" Cura. I use Cura 15.04.6. I can not upload a newer version to my computer. The part is loading, I can synonymous turn it, but it is not geslicet. Is there a version of this part that is feasible with this version of Cura? If that does not exist, then I help myself with the shaft of the smaller version of the windmill!
Thanks for your answers, I was not in my workshop for a few days!
It would be nice if I could finish printing all parts.
Greetings from the south Georgio

Here you go, shaft with small file size and hopefully the threads are ok at these settings.

Thanks Dan

Hallo Dan, besten Dank für Deine Mühe, ja diese Datei kann ich bearbeiten und drucken. vielen herzlichen Dank! LG Georgio

If anyone is using simplify 3D to get a pause you can pause the print at layer 90 by putting the following into the Process Settings-> Scripts-> Additional terminal commands for post processing.

{REPLACE "; layer 90, Z = " "\nG1 X10 Y5\nM0\n; layer 90, Z = "}

Guys,

I had the turbine out in high winds recently and I think the PvP kicks in a little two early, I think the turbine should run at a higher speed, The best way to achieve this is to increase the spring strength by compressing it more using a washer and nut or maybe using two springs.

Higher speeds = more POWER!!! :))

Thanks Dan

How are people getting on with their builds? I'm expecting my last few non-printable parts this week so should be able to get her up and mounted soon. Will be in my back garden to replace the existing 5w model which had a tumble sadly. Saying that i'm re-using all the bearings and spring so would have had to be dismantled anyway.

Which steppers are you guys planning on using? I've a spare NEMA17 but it's 1.5A, was struggling to see any 2A versions and the ones that i did see were actually exactly the same model as the 1.5A ones being offered.

Thanks locti, i found a few on Aliexpress. Looks to be around £10 for one to the UK.

Just need to try and find the hall effect sensor now.

In the end i went with a UK one off ebay which was the exact model and when i looked at lead times etc it was worth the extra few pound

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-9deg-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-2A-46Ncm-65oz-in-42x42x48mm-4-wires-DIY-CNC/121681232839?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

also for anyone in the UK i also found a whole slew of O-rings for a bargain price considering it's shipped from within the UK

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/419-PCS-RUBBER-O-RING-ORING-SEAL-PLUMBING-GARAGE-SET-KIT-32-SIZES-WITH-CASE-4-34/282242200141?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Anyone else have the nacelle come out to large? All the parts have been a dream to print, no issues at all besides this nacelle.

Got this worked out. I'm not entirely sure what happen, but I went to reprint and the same thing happened. I deleted the STL file and re-opened it from the zip and all is good now. No clue lol.

Have you scaled it accidentally, i printed these recently and it was a perfect match size wise.

Wonder what happened to Dan? lots of people interested with questions but seems he's not around anymore?

Sorry Kevin, haven't any time recently to spend on designing & printing etc. Hopefully i've answered all the questions now.

Thanks Dan

Ich wundere mich gerade über die Datei "Print_Settings". Als zu verwendendes Material steht da PLA. Ich dachte PLA ist nicht wetterfest und zerfällt schon alleine wegen der UV-Strahlung mit der Zeit. Ist da ABS nicht die bessere Wahl?

Hallo, ABS wäre stärker und länger, aber ich habe keine ABS oder das Geld, um es im Moment zu verbringen. Andere haben ABS ohne Problem verwendet, also wird es vielleicht in Ordnung sein? Gib es los und lass mich wissen, wie es dir geht.

Danke Dan

I guess the new "Tough PLA" (from Ultimaker) would be a good alternative for some parts of this project, I guess. I have two spools on order and once I get it I may think about re-printing some of the turbine parts with it.

Hi Daniel,
I think this project is really great and i`m starting to print right now. :-)
But I need some support in choosing the right bearings.
Would it be possible to provide a list of all bearing types you use?
This would make buying (maybe AliExpress?) much easier.
Many thanks and greetings from the Czech Republic

This is what I"m planning on using:

Pitch bearing - http://www.vxb.com/SF689ZZ-Flanged-Stainless-Steel-9x17x5-p/sf689zz.htm

Location bearing - http://www.vxb.com/F6805ZZ-Flanged-Shielded-Chrome-Steel-25x37x7-p/f6805zz.htm

There is cheaper alternatives out there.

Thanks for helping out!

Thanks for helping out!

Hi merryroc,

thank you for your support.
This helps me a lot.

Greetings from the Czech Republic

That is very nice.
I'm just beginning to print and will post some pictures later.
Is it necessary to connect a charge controller, or can you directly connect a battery (12V car battery?)?

Greetings from the Czech Republic

Hi James,

many thanks for your response.
This hels me a lot.

Greetings from the Czech Republic

Was kommt nach dem großen "Hurraa", ja natürlich die Ernüchterung. Also es ist nicht möglich die große Achse zu Slicen , zumindest nicht auf meinem Computer. Ebenso geht das auch mit - 3006 nose cone- nicht. Da kann man sich aber helfen und die Nase des kleinen Bruders verwenden. Das klappt. Oder hat jemand in der Runde eine bessere Information?
Dann würde ich danke sagen für die INFO! LG Georgio

What comes after the big "hurray", yes of course the disillusionment. So it's not possible to slice the big axis, at least not on my computer. This is also not the case with - 3006 nose cone. But you can help yourself and use the nose of your little brother. That works. Or does someone have better information in the round?
Then I would say thank you for the INFO! LG Georgio

Hey Georgio, please see my comment to your previous comment. I can help sort something out for you.

Cheers Dan

Great info thanks! I have to admit i though at first I thought you were formulating crystalline silicon wafers. :)

Hurrrrra es ist mir gelungen den "Shaft" mit CURA zu Slicen! Mit Geduld und Spucke geht es! "Nose Cone" hab ich aber noch nicht geschafft, da werde ich die Datei des 3 Watt Gerätes verwenden! LG Goeorgio

Hurrrrra I succeeded in slicing the "Shaft" with CURA! With patience and spit it works! "Nose Cone" I have not done yet, because I will use the file of the 3 watt device! LG Goeorgio

This is amazing! Way beyond my technical skills, I’m afraid, but I have a cousin who’s an electrical engineer that I’m sure I could excited about doing a collaborative project.

Hey, I love your project, in order to simplify, do you have the blades as one file? a lot of people have Tevo Tornados or Creality CR-10s etc which have 400+ build heights this might help a few people out.

Thanks

Here you go.

I've definitely got the wrong printer if you guys are printing these blades in a single piece! hopefully they don't wobble to much on the print bed?

Cheers Dan

Thanks, will give them a go this weekend. You mentioned about trying out larger blades.. I have a tevo tornado so have a build volume of 300 x 300 x 400. Happy to help out any trials etc. Will turn Y jerk to 3 or 4 to stop any wobbling whilst printing, also orientation helps a lot with tall prints.

For anyone with a CR-10 this will fit on the build volume but as Dan Says it would be interesting to see if it wobbles too much, if using S3D you may want to increase the brim and maybe do it more than one layer thick, though you'd have more cleanup to do on the part.

Same question here :-)

Hi Dan,
First, great design.
I started printing and can not wait to see it work.
A question, what about the 'winding up' of the wires in the pole, one can not expect that the wires will 'unwind' themselves.
Is there anything (a stop position) that ensures that the upper moving part does not rotate 360​​° in the same direction?
Otherwise, the wires in the pole will sooner or later short-circuit.

That's what the slip ring is for. If you look at the mkii you can find more info on it.

OK, thanks. Did not know there was a more extensive documentation in the MKII version.

Yeah, I only know because I went through the same questions and dug around a bit. Hopefully it helps.

Changed the filament a few times when making the blades. Half way done printing so far.

Now that is COOL!!! I didn't even think that could be done, my ultimaker is a bit crap when it pauses for 15 seconds when i insert the nut.

Nice job.

Aus welchem Grund sind die Dateien für den Schaft und die kleinen Bolzen der Kupplung so riesig?
For what reason are the files for the "shaft" and the small bolts of the clutch so huge?

Its a complex model with fine threads, lowering the STL quality makes the threads poor.
Thanks Dan

Schade ist, daß dieses Projekt für mich nicht zu bewerkstelligen ist, Ich drucke mit Slic3R oder mit Cura, aber mit beiden Programmen kann ich einige Datein nicht Slicen und ausdrucken, da sie einfach zu groß sind. 89 MB sind für diese Programme nicht möglich zu verarbeiten. So ist die Datei des " Struktur" Teiles einfach nicht zu bearbeiten bzw in eine Position zu bringen , daß sie auch gedruckt werden kann. Schade drum!
LG Georgio
It is a pity that this project can not be done for me, I print with Slic3R or with Cura, but with both programs I can not slice and print some files because they are just too big. 89 MB are not possible to process for these programs. Thus, the file of the "structure" part is simply not editable or to bring in a position that it can be printed. Too bad!

Thats a shame Georgio, I had no issues using cura with these models, If you give me a list of the part numbers you are struggling with I will reduce the STL quality to a size that will work for you, what size is the maximum your computer will manage?

Thanks Dan

I use Repetier software with slic3r Prusa Edition and it works bigger files are slow on slicing but it can be done .

can you make the tower mount with f68052rs bearings? I tried the printed bearing but its wobbly:). I like the new tower shaft easy to feed the wires .

Thanks!

Hello Newman,

Have you tried scaling up the rolling elements in diameter to reduce the movement, I tried a few minor scales 1% increments until I got a snug fit, I guess this will be different for everyone and dependant on printer and material.

You can use the MkII tower header, i've attached the shaft that I think will do the job but you might need to make a little spacer ring as I haven't done any final fit on these parts.

Thanks Dan

What is the length of m6 threaded rod for the tail fin?

Thanks!

Hello, I've used 300mm.

I've had the turbine out in all kinds of conditions and its actually very stable in yaw with the 300mm rod, i'd go for that to be not he safe side.

Cheers Dan

Wow what a fantastic design. Thank you for sharing! I have quite a large printer and would like to print the blades as a single piece. Would that be possible? do you have a single piece file? This is going to be a good challanging project for me as im not too technically minded but im very excited. I love the fact that it uses a nema 17! I see myself making quite a few of these for my garden. keep up the great work! :-)

Hi Kevin, sorry for the delay I see you have already printed some blades but i've attached the model.

Thanks Dan

Started printing, very exciting!
Ad "AS_4000_01 Generator Assembly, PP_4011_01 Couplier": on my Ultimaker 2+, this part (one) takes approx. 2 hours and 40 minutes to print with the suggested settings, not 57 minutes as noted. Is this just me?

Hello Tafelspitz, perhaps I got the print speed of 20mm/s wrong and printed at 50mm/s?

Thanks Dan

Hi Dan,
this is impressive achievement on the construction side of the thing. But I have a question. When you have calculated nominal/maximal power of the turbine (50W), what was nominal/maximal RPM in the calculation?
I would like to simulate electrical part of the turbine on the workbench to verify feasibility of the setup - NEMA17 as generator, diode bridge rectifier and filtering capacitor. I plan to turn the generator with power drill or electric screwdriver, but I need the correct RPM to set for power measurements.

Hello jlab4, I clocked the turbine over 2000 RPM peak, the nominal will be dependant on your particular set-up of the pitch weight moment and spring resistance but it should be at least 1500 rpm.

Let me know how you get on and if you find a better way to wire up the BR?!

Cheers Dan

WoW! What wind speed needed to speed it up to 2000 rpm? I have 5 m/s now and it spin very slow...

Hi Dan,
Thanks for your impressive job!
I've printed the coupler and I've a question about that : how to maintain the gap between the "Generator Interface" and the "shaft interface"?
The axis motor (my nema17 in the picture is not the preconized one, I'm wainting for) maintain the generator interface in place but the shaft interface is free. May be I've missed something on your excellent pdf description...

Its looking really good merryroc! as long as its not really tight it will work just fine, the position is set from the generator end as this shouldn't move backwards and forwards it takes a bit of patients to get it right and once you have it set right add a little grease to get rid of any noise.

Cheers Dan

Nice color scheme, mate :-)

Yes! I wanted to make the wind turbine with toy colors, not to tempt thieves! It will be installed in a forest near a wooden chalet, in addition to an existing home-made solar panel.

Comments deleted.

Ohhhh I can't wait to start printing this!

Hallo DD
Derzeit bin ich dabei die "kleine Windmühle"- 3 Watt Anlage - von Ihnen zu bauen. das klappt ganz gut und ich hab schon fast alles gedruckt. Da ist mir gestern die Maschine mit der 50 Watt Leistung aufgefallen. Das gefällt mir schon viel besser. Obwohl ich die kleine aber sicher fertigstellen möchte um die Umsetzung zu erlernen. Ihre Zeichnungen sind hervorragend und auch gut durchdacht. Somit steht dem Druckprogramm für die 50 Watt Anlage nichts mehr im Wege. Eine bitte hätte ich aber doch. Könnten Sie die Maßangaben der einzelnen Kugel- und Rollenlager wenigstens angeben ? Nach dem Lagertyp traue ich mich nicht zu fragen, den kann ich dann auch selbst herausfinden.
Vielen herzlichen Dank für Ihre hervorragende Arbeit.

Hello DD
At the moment I'm going to build the "small windmill" - 3 Watt plant - by you. that works quite well and I have already printed almost everything. Yesterday I noticed the machine with 50 watts of power. I like that much better. Although I want to complete the small but sure to learn the implementation. Her drawings are excellent and well thought out. Thus, nothing stands in the way of the printing program for the 50 Watt system. I would have one, please. Could you at least specify the dimensions of the individual ball and roller bearings? After the camp type, I do not dare to ask, I can then find out for myself.
Thank you very much for your excellent work.

Hello Georgio, Thanks for the kind words.

The Bearing dimensions are available in the drawings, AS_2000 Section B2 and AS_3000 Section D2.

Thanks Dan

What a great project. And what a labor of love, the documentation alone is prizeworthy! Thank you so much for sharing this.
Is the slip ring the same model/size as for the MKII? Can't seem to find a make/model/description, but in the MKII documentation, you do provide a link.

Hello Tafelspitz, Thanks for the kind words.

The slip ring dimensions are available in the drawing AS1000 Section C3. The dimensions are the same as the MkII however I've gone for a slip ring with thicker wires as i found the ones from the MkII difficult to work with. Try and get the thickest wire you can to reduce resistance! :)

Thanks Dan

Starting print! NOW! :)))

I've been eagerly awaiting the release of this, thank you! I've already started printing.

How do you plan on scaling up the design for greater power outputs? Do you have an idea when you might be releasing greater power versions?

I find the blade assembly a bit odd in that there is a bolt holding the two halves together but no extra pin keeping them aligned. I am thinking it will probably be worth gluing the two halves together along with the bolt?

yes I've the same for the blade assembly. Probably better with two little pin .

Hello LeWill,

I want to try different generators leaving everything else unchanged to see if there is something better than the stepper motor, other than that I don't have any other plans. I tried an NEMA23 but the start up torque required a reduction gearbox that then resulted in lower RPM and less overall power.

I'm really proud of the blade, the bolt is positioned on a dual included plane relative to the mating faces. The two haves will only fit together one way and as you tighten the bolt the two halves self align so no need for a pin or glue. Although glue would be good to keep the bolt locked and the surface of the blade smooth. I printed just the joint to test it, I can dig out the STL files if you want to test print just the joint rather than the full blade.

Thanks Dan

I thought the blade might be held together that way. Nice elegant solution, looking forward to seeing how it works when I print it.

Im interested to see how much power can come from a printed turbine. It's yoo bad that the NEMA23 didnt work out. Have you reached a maximum size for printed blades?

LeWill, I think the turbine diameter could be pushed to 1000mm but i'm right at the limit of my printer. What printer do you have, perhaps we could work together and I can provide you with a bigger blade to try out?

Cheers Dan

I have a 500MM Z axis and would love to try different blade sizes. Upload them here or email me @ Kevinjoakes@googlemail.com and i'll set my printer on it ;-) Cheers.

I've added some pictures of my turbine, the start up wind speed is really low! the bigger blades working perfectly.

Dan

Christmas came early this time around :)!

This rocks!

Thank you, we have long waited for this day:)

The MKII had a voltage regulator. Do you have one picked out for the MKIII?

Hi beersboy, it depends how you wire things up for max voltage or max current and the maximum power you require. For example if you need 25 volt, 1 amp (25watt) you can trim the PvP to give you this output and then use a regulator from the MkII to protect the electronics. IF you want more power then you will need a bigger regulator 50 volt, 1 amp or 25, volt 2 amp.

Thanks Dan

so where are the files for printing then? also motor looks to be a nema 17

If you're unable to find the STL files then this isn't the project for you. No need to guess what the motor is read the drawings its all documented.

sarcastic cock! guess my honours degree in mechanical engineering is worthless then, drop the attitude and be thankful people are interested enough in your design to ask questions, your design is indeed very impressive and i admire the effort youve gone to on this but you arent going to impress anyone by being a cockwomble, have a bit of humility and either just answer the questions people ask or if you feel the question is beneath you then just ignore it.

hope this helps.

As if you said he’s got an attitude when you asked an arsey comment to begin with and in all fairness he should have ignored you because it was a pretty stupid question.

lol. There is more documentation, and cad drawings to help build this than anything I have ever seen on this site. Your mechanical engineering degree is useless if you don't have common sense.

and who asked you to chime in? i like you have never seen any kind of documentation like this on this site so i expected it to be like every other thing here. would it have shown more common sense to let people know that the stls are all partitioned in separate folders in the download? get back in your box you helmet.

This is all funny, really entertaining... Kudos Dan, for not letting an AWESOME design go to your head, like some people's degrees. I came for the 3d printed MKIII, drawings and bitchin' documentation, but stayed for the comedy.

well, it's not so hard to click download unpack and see the folders =)) I'm surprised you got your degree without special guidance

Made my day too.
Do you know the cost of the bom ?

Hi juu,

The nuts/bolts/washers less than £10, the slip ring and electronic components £5 and the NEMA 17 I got 3 from china delivered for £10. The bearings are the most expensive parts although cheaper than the MKII because of the printed taper roller in the tower, i think mine cost about £20... there is the option to use plain bearings for the PvP and save a lot of money but these will require regular lubrication and checking. I've attached the snap shot from the drawings.

Hope this helps.

Where did you manage to find 3 Nema17's for £10 delivered?? That is a crazy low price and i ended up paying £15 for one in the UK to get one after seeing it would be £12 from aliexpress etc, my googlefu skills are obviously lacking :-(

This help so much.
Thanks for ur great job Dan

This has made my day. Seriously this is like christmas for me.

Me too, been waiting patiently :-)

Let's go for the big one. BRAVO!

Brilliant idea and super neat technical drawings!

Can you give specifics of the motor used? Model number or perhaps where one can purchase it? I'd love to implement this, but all previous personal designs have got stuck on finding a suitable motor.

Thanks!

Hello Tricky,

The Motor is an NEMA 17, i'm pretty sure all variations of the NEMA 17 will fit, I used the 2amp version the dimensions of the NEMA 17 can be found in the drawings.

Thanks Dan

Thanks Jay, the take a lot of time to make but worth it in the end :)

Enjoy printing!

Sooo excited you finally got this completed. Looks like i'm gonna need a bigger printer.

Thank you for the design, it looks like an amazing amount of work has went into the turbine.

You are welcome :)