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acurazine

Yet Another Fidget Infinity Cube v2

by acurazine Apr 3, 2018
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I'm very new to 3d printing and I've printed version 1 of this twice but some of the hinges fuse together on the first layer. The other hinges are tight but free up with a bit of force. I've made sure that Ignore Z gaps is unchecked in Cura. Any tips?

Here are the pics of the test print, bottom and top.

Hi there! Could be a whole host of issues. My initial reaction is it looks like you're over-extruding. Other issues may be low belt tension or poor extruder idler tension. The easiest solution would be to upload a version for your with larger tolerances, but that's kind of a "bandaid" solution that doesn't solve the root cause of your problem.

The first place I would start would be calibrating your extruder motor. Stepper motors come in either 0.9° or 1.8° variants, moving that much per "step" as regulated by the stepper drivers. You'll want to calibrate how many "steps" the motor moves per mm of filament it's attempting to push out. This can be done following the excellent guide on Matt's Hub: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

Next, I'd make sure to calibrate your flow rate (and really, if you want to skip extruder calibration, you can just do this as a sort of quick-and-dirty replacement option -- but it's best to do both). Once the above step of dialing in extruder steps per mm is complete, print out a single-wall cube (search around here on Thingiverse or just use a 20*20mm cube of your own) with no infills or top layers. Ensure the extrusion width for perimeters is set to your nozzle width (probably 0.4mm) You can then measure the thickness of its walls with a micrometer or caliper, and use that to adjust the flow rate setting in your slicer. It'll probably be somewhere between 95%-105% (0.95-1.05), assuming you calibrated extruder steps per mm correctly. (Edit: I now notice the Matt's Hub article goes over this too -- the part called Extrusion Multiplier).

Once all that is done, and you print another thin wall cube to verify 0.4mm wall thickness (and double check belt tension as I mentioned earlier), you're set to try this fidget cube again. Sorry, I know that sounds like a ton of work. But really those are two essential things to dial in on a new printer, and once they're done, you're pretty much set to print worry-free going forward. They're well worth figuring out, and you'll get more dimensional accuracy and print quality across all your prints.

I invite you to join the "602 Wasteland" Discord server (originally created to discuss/combat a specific GitHub issue with Prusa printers, but now more of a hub for casual printer talk and troubleshooting/help): https://discord.gg/CuyMkV5 -- I'm happy to chat with you more on there or via PM and get this thing working! My Discord tag is Austin (acurazine)#1829.

Just want to say thanks for this guide. Couldn't get the test peice to print without it breaking / being stuck, followed what you said and it worked! Thanks alot

Awesome! Thanks for sharing, Lewis. Glad it worked out.

Thank you for all the suggestions. I'll work my way through them and let you know how I go.

Thanks again! I really appreciate it. :D

Can you upload the block and hinge stl seperate for printing multi color?

Sure, but FWIW, you should be able to separate the parts in 1 click via Slic3r/PrusaSlicer. Here you go!

Do you think you could make one like this with companion cubes?

Hey, not sure what that means. Do you have a picture/example?

I see. I guess it's possible but I don't wish to spend the time sorting out the new hinge interfaces that would come with a shape like that. Someone else can modify the file and do it, maybe. PM me if you'd like a STEP file for my original design.

Comments deleted.

Hi there. I really love the "Rounded_Yet_Another_Fidget_Infinity_Cube_v2.stl" model and have printed it with great success using the Prusa MK3S. I wanted to make a small tweak/modification but importing the STL into TinkedCad corrupted the hinges so it won't print properly. I was hoping you could include a file format for that model that I could import into TinkerCad as that's all I know how to use at the moment. Thank you! (I use the Slic3R PE slicer by the way)

Hey there! Happy to share whatever file type you'd like. Would a .obj work better? Or I can send the original Fusion 360 file if you're willing to give a go at modifying it there? I'll also give TinkerCAD importing a go myself to see if I can solve whatever corruption issue you're talking about. Should have time later tonight or tomorrow.

I believe the .obj file would work best for TinkerCad imports. Thank you in advance for sharing. Much appreciated.

Hey, scratch that actually, I know what the issue was. You're using the "rounded" version which I had a corrupted version of uploaded to this page a while back. I took it down after realizing it had problems. I've since fixed it and can reuploaded the fixed version soon! The .stl should work fine with TinkerCAD then. In the meantime, if you go check out prusaprinters.org and look for this design, the fixed rounded one is already available there. :)

I actually tried the one from prusaprinters.org. Imported it to TinkerCAD and then exported to STL and opened it in PrusaPE alongside the original rounded STL design. Although the hinges aren't broken, it still corrupts the rounded edges somewhat. It's not as perfectly smooth as the original. Here is a screenshot of what i mean. I'm trying a print to see how it looks...

Comments deleted.

The problem is not loading it directly into Slic3r. The problem is loading the .stl file into TinkerCAD, exporting it to .stl and loading that .stl into Slic3r. I hope that makes sense. Any chance you can upload both the .obj and Fusion 360 files so I may tinker with them? Thanks.

Turns out the issue is not with the file, it is with TinkerCAD. My rounded file has ~119,000 triangles in its mesh. After importing and exporting from TinkerCAD, it is reduced to ~23,000. I have also read online that TinkerCAD's working maximum is 25,000 triangles. The file is not to blame here, unfortunately. All I can offer is to export a reduced-triangle version specially for you from Fusion 360, and send it via PM. That should work fine to mess with in simpler programs with triangle-limited restrictions.

Indeed the problem is with TinkerCAD's handling of the .stl file. I was hoping that it could handle the .obj file better.

I left another response last night with a file that works better, but Thingiverse has it marked as "This comment is currently flagged for moderation." :/

Ah. I was wondering what that "Comments deleted." thing was about.

(Forgot I could attach files to comments here)

Here is a decimated version of the rounded cube. It has ~10,000 triangles, while still retaining a moderately smooth figure, and I have verified it plays nicely with TinkerCAD. I also tried a version at ~22,000 triangles, and TinkerCAD still ruined it. I've attached the Fusion 360 file as well (excuse the perhaps-inefficient design practice); I recommend you consider making modifications there instead. Please let me know if you find some issue with the file that I've overlooked!

Hello! First of all thank you for such a great thing! I printed several dozens of them now as a gifts and I really like your deleted rounded version. So after a lot of prints I came up to modifying your version just a bit in Meshmixer. What I did was reducing "air gap" layers count from 2 to 1 under the top horizontal hinges (see attached image). I simply changed these hinges in height by adding 0.2mm in Z dimension and then moved these hinges down by 0.2mm. Now the bottom surface finish of these hinges (which prints in the air) is almost perfect! That would be nice if you could correct your model this way.

The hinges that print in the air always comes out a bit messy and take away from the otherwise clean look of the print. In some cases, it even breaks off. Would you mind sharing your modified version of the .stl file for me to try? The original file name is "Rounded_Yet_Another_Fidget_Infinity_Cube_v2.stl"

Following up - I did get great results off my Prusa trying this, but on my other printer (a FlashForge Guider II), the hinges fused too much and broke the plastic below them a bit when breaking free.

Modified ("experimental") file with top hinges dropped by 0.2mm is attached, in case anybody would like to try it out.

Alf, first off, thanks for sharing! The reason for a 2-layer gap was that, for me, a 1-layer gap doesn't leave the hinges easy to break apart. I found them fusing to the prior layer when testing that way. Perhaps it has something to do with how my slicer of choice (Slic3r PE) handles them (as an overhang/bridge I believe), but yeah, 2-layer gaps were required for my prints to come out properly. I'll give it a go testing again at 1-layer once my MK3 is up and running again. Thanks for the feedback!

Spot on print 1st time. Printed with up2+ following instructions given. Thank you for sharing this great file.

Thank you for commenting! I'm glad it worked, and hearing of others enjoying the file always makes my day!!

V1 worked perfectly for me--I printed three of them. Then I tried this one and the model would not come unstuck without breaking. The wider hinges leave less material on the cube, so the cubes break before the hinges snap apart.

Interesting, what printer and slicer? Out of thousands of downloads, I don't know if I've heard of a single other person where the hinges came out better on v1.

M3D Crane Quad and Cura 4.0.0, using 0.2mm layer height.

Have you tried another slicer? I find Cura is often more finicky for me than is Slic3r.

This is amazing. It worked! Even after I hold it in my hands it is hard to belive that it printed just like that. when i sliced it, it seemed that some structures would not print well bedcause there is no support and they seemingly hung "in the air". but somehow it printed very well. it was easy to break the hinges loose. just the hinges that are printed in an upright position are quite tight. but they will probably loosen after using the cube some few hundred times.
anyway... great design and easy to print. thank you!

Haha yeah the concept of it printing all as one piece always seems to blow people away (those who haven't even heard of 3D printing before especially!), I'm glad it printed well for you!

Not really related to the print (which is fantastic by the way), but can you tell me what that filament is in the first picture? It looks so good!

Absolutely! It is Vertigo Grey PLA from Fillamentum. It truly looks even better in person, the picture doesn't do it justice! It's mesmerizing.

Thanks for the design! Had to adjust some settings on ender 3 but turning off the heated bed was the most important otherwise the bottom joints where melted together.

Interesting, glad you made it work!

Hello,

Do you use supports on this to print it?
if so what settings?

thanks!

Hi! All the important settings are in the "Thing Details" on this page.

Thank you so much for sharing this design, it is great and has become a favorite with my kids. Unfortunately I have been running into trouble separating the hinges (particularly the four hinges on the bottom), I have destroyed too many prints trying to separate the joints so that it can function properly. I am printing suing CURA 3.6 in PLA at 0.2mm nozzle at 100% scale (185C hotend and 65C bed), I tried two different PLA colors and still struggling for those hinges to work.

Do you have any suggestions that could help keep those joints from fusing?

Sounds to me like your nozzle is a little too close to the bed on your first layer. That's the only reason that the bottom hinges would function any differently from those on the top. Try raising your nozzle a bit.

What are the tolerances of the model?

Pretty much 0.4 mm on everything. That's the distance between cubes, above and below hinges, etc.

I LOVE this model. This may be a silly question, but how did you make the hinges different colors to the cubes? In one pic the hinges are pink and the body green. Is it a dual extrusion printer?
Thanks

Hi Jack, thanks for the kind words! The print is not mine, but rather from a "Make" that I really liked, and borrowed the picture from. I believe that particular one was done on a dual-nozzle printer, but similar results could be achieved with a multi-material system such as Prusa's MMU or the Mosaic Palette.

would you mind if I sell it?

edit: oops just saw the other comment at the bottom.

Yeah go for it dude, just get a link back to this page somewhere in your description. And I'd love to see the product page if/when you do!

Does this print still work if its scaled up or down?

Honestly, in the hundreds of these I've printed, I've never once tried it scaled. I have seen others do it at 150% and 200% successfully, albeit perhaps with some more cleanup on the hinges. I think one or two people tried 50-75% too, but can't recall if the joints still functioned. It wouldn't take much time/filament so I say give the smaller version a shot!

thanks! i tried it and it works amazing! i can't believe it!
i printed on mono price select mini v2 at 80% and it work amazing!

Thanks for the rounded corners version! Had some trouble with it initially but adding a brim helped. Kind of annoying to remove after its printed, but not too bad. The only thing is the underside of the top hinges looked terrible - this is the first version of this that I sliced in Cura I think, and I believe the 'enabled bridge settings' under Experimental made the hinges look bad. So, I would suggest everyone using Cura DISABLE this setting for this print. Still very functional though!

I enjoyed both of your infinity cubes. Great work!

Thanks for posting a Make! Glad they both turned out!

Thanks so much!

The infinity cubes have made me popular at my school

I'm new to 3D printing and am amazed that working hinges can be printed!Thanks for your work.

I printed "Yet Another Fidget Infinity Cube v2" on an XYZ da Vinci Pro 1.0 using XYZware at .2mm layer width and got a few problems.

I printed on a raft, that's the crosshatching you will see in the pics.

Pic 1: Some of the inner hinges are unsurfaced, it looks like infill.

Pic 2: A hinge had a small notch in it, which looks like it shouldn't be there.

Pic 3: Another hinge printed disconnected. The disconnect is smooth (not broken).

Any advice?

Thanks again for the amazing work.

Awesome, welcome to the hobby! I think perhaps there is still an issue with the STL file for the rounded version that I uploaded. I will take a look into it sometime this weekend when I can.

In the meantime, can I suggest printing the original version with angled edges? I expect that will fix the disconnected hinge, and perhaps the notch too.

The "unsurfaced" thing is probably a result of your slicer - if you're using Cura, be sure that "Ignore Small Z Gaps" is disabled, and maybe give Slic3r Prusa Edition a try - I know it always works well on this model for me. EDIT: I see you're using XYZware - I'm totally unfamiliar with it. Like I said, Slic3r PE would be a good bet if your printer is compatible with other slicers.

Thanks for the new rounded version! Unfortunately, neither of the new files I grabbed slice correctly in Sli3er, Cura, or Simplyfy3D. The bottom 4 hinges seem to have issues for some reason.

Ok, sorry about that, fixed version uploaded now! Confirmed it slices perfectly for me in Slic3r.

Comments deleted.

will you allow me to sell it?

Sure thing! Just link to this Thingiverse page if you will, so people know where it came from. :)

Felicitaciones, Genio

These are a huge hit with my kids....I think they are hustling them at school or something, since they keep asking for more. Thanks for all your work on this!

Wow, and thank you kindly for the tip! Unnecessary but very appreciated!

Super awesome, thank you! I myself just finished a batch of 32 of them and mailed them cross-country for my cousin's 2nd grade students. Apparently kids really enjoy them!

Great file! My son (11yo) and his friends love this! I printed 2 first, and instantly got more requests for additional fidget cubes. :)

That's so cool to hear! I just started a new job in August and have been printing plates of 12 of these at a time every couple days for the past 3 weeks. Coworkers keep stopping by my desk to ask for more... at some point I'm going to have to start charging them! Lol

So I've made a couple of these successfully but lately I've had no luck with it. I just can't seem to replicate the first time... Either the cube part under the vertical hinges curl up and seem to fuse to the hinge, and/or the horizontal hinges fuse to the cubes below it. I've tried 190C to 205C, 50 and 60C bed temp, extruder is calibrated well, fan at 100% (semicircular design). Amet a8 printer. Tried both slic3r and cura. Anyome have any suggestions?

Hm, sorry to hear that. It's strange that you were able to print them before but can't now. Are you using the exact same material as you did before? Perhaps it's absorbed moisture and needs to be dried out?

I had printed successfully in red & blue Hatchbox PLA, I was trying the copper Hatchbox PLA and it wasn't working. Not sure if the color could have done it but I tried using their silver and it just printed great. Besides the color change though, I had changed the xy size compenstion option in slic3r to -0.11, which gave it some more room. I think that was more a problem with my printer than the model though - like I said, its printed fine before without this. But if anyones having a similar issue, try to use the xy compensation a bit. Not too much, because then the joints won't work. -0.11 seemed to be about as much as I could give it before it started to slice oddly.

Cool, thanks for sharing that tip. I think the color definitely could have had something to do with it. Different brands of PLA can vary a lot not only in how they extrude and flow, but also just in the diameter of the filament. I've personally measured as low as 1.63 (on what was supposed to be 1.75mm plastic) and as high as 1.91 with my calipers before.

I know every printer is different, but this version breaks more often during uncracking than the original rounded one. It seems that the angled corners at the hinges are less strong than the rounded ones. Prusa I3 MK2.

Interesting. Not sure what the issue would be - I'm printing with a MK3 and have never had hinges snap on this v2 model. What are your print settings like?

My experience was the opposite. Would you mind to share a close-up of the failed hinges? Maybe there's a simple tuning-detail that might help.

What material did you use?

Whats the smallest this can be printed at without fusing together? I tried at 60% but all the parts fused (tried .1mm) which might be the issue as well. I'm just trying to shrink it a little so it's more of a pocket carry.

Yeah it's designed to be printed at 100% scale with 0.2mm layers. I think the best-case scenario for scaling down would be at exactly 50% with 0.1mm layers and a 0.2mm nozzle, but you'd need a really well-tuned printer.

If I printed this at 50% scale with 0.1mm layers and a 0.4mm nozzle at 50% speed, would it still work? My printer has 0.1mm layers and 50% speed as default anyway. Its a Monoprice select mini.

I don't think so. You'd need a 0.2mm nozzle to print this at 50% and keep the proper proportions. 0.2mm gaps won't be maintained well when trying to print around them with a 0.4mm nozzle.

There's a fine-tuned gap of 0.4 mm to make the mechanics workable. When scaling down, you can try to reduce the layer height and the line-width accordingly. Combined with an under-extrusion you can possibly create a smaller print. But I really doubt that 60 % is possible.

I made a similar cube in a parametric form that can be re-sized using OpenSCAD: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2849422
Maybe this fits your need.

Kobayashi Fidget Cube (Infinity Cube, parametric)

This is my favorite thing I've printed so far (granted only a couple weeks but still)! My only comment is the 45 degree corners tend to be just enough to be a little uncomfortable when handling. It could be my printer because I may have an overextrusion problem but is there a possibility we can get a more rounded version?

Haha yeah for sure man, have you seen the v1 version of this? It has perfectly rounded corners :D https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2595224

Yet Another Fidget Infinity Cube

I've seen that but then you lose the other improvements made in the v2 :(

Just uploaded a version with v2 improvements but rounded edges!

Help! I can move it once on each side to make it a cube, but the other way doesn't work :( please help me fix

I don't know how I'm supposed to help with almost no specifics on your problem. Which printer and slicer? What print settings? Do you have pictures? How hard have you tried to break free the tough hinges?

Great Thing, thank you! What's the specific reason behind the advice to turn it diagonally? Wouldn't it print out the same regardless?

EDIT: Does it help reduce ghosting?

Yeah, the idea is to reduce resonance in both the x- and y-axis directions by lowering the peak acceleration and speed that each sees. I'm not sure how big of a difference it makes, but at least theoretically in my head, it can't hurt. I do it for most of my models that involve a lot of right angles in the x-y plane.

Excellent work and design ! Printed fine on my Lulzbot mini and Anycubic I3 Mega. Made sure the setting were correct in Cura and all was good. My grandchildren love them. Keeps them busy for awhile..

That's awesome, thanks for sharing! Makes me very happy to hear when kids enjoy the design.

Hello, i cannot print it. Did 2 prints today, each 3 hours, it just brakes. Can you share your profile please?

I use Slic3r Prusa Edition, and pretty much just use the default profile for my MK3 aside from any settings I mentioned in the thing description. What specifically is breaking? The hinges are fused together or what?

There's a hinge-test model that saves you a lot of time when trying to optimize your settings.

Would you mind to show a picture of the broken parts?