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Silicone Sock for Mk10 Hotends

by pyr0ball Apr 3, 2018
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Will this fit the TronXY X1 heat block?

It turns out the mold is incorrect and will not fit on the printer without modification (at least on my Monoprice i3 V2). The heater and thermistor holes are on opposite sides. If you hold the mold as if it is attached to a printer with the print head down and to the front, the left side requires two holes (Heater and Thermistor) and the right side requires one hole (Heater end). The mold is exactly opposite with two holes on the right and one hole on the left.

Here is a picture of the MK10: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Mk10-Extruder-Head-M7-Nozzle-Aluminum-Heating-Block-PTFE-Throat-for-3d-Printer/25016754185

I had a mk10 hotend from a flash forge I was measuring from which has one on each side. They can be mounted in either orientation, so so you have to do is mirror the mesh while slicing

I simply flipped the heater block on the printer. Quicker than reprinting. The sock is working great!

Wow, I had no idea Cura could mirror. A single click fixed the model. Thanks!

Thanks for the design. What is the purpose of the "sacrificial tower"?

It's for ritualistic sacrifice of the remains of your nearly spent spool!

Actually it's to deal with the small cylinder at the tip of the insert part. Without a second part of the print to move to, the nozzle can twist it out of shape because it doesn't give the part any time to cool, even with a fan on it.

Here's an example: https://i.imgur.com/MbmHUmhh.jpg

You'll see the bottom piece that was printed all by itself has a twisted misshapen end to it, while the top part was printed alongside other stuff.

In the case of the mk10, that part extends above all the others, so I added the tower to address that issue

Thanks! Turns out I did not need it. I did find I need to print the insert at .1 or else it would not fit without a lot of sanding. Running to the store for some silicone. I'll tell you how it works!