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Silicone Sock for E3D Clone Heatblocks

by pyr0ball Apr 2, 2018
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I wish you had a version for the new cartridge style ones! still awesome! Maybe I can just get a non genuine heater block to use this.. those don't seem to be THAT important

I do take requests! I'll see what I can whip up

:o Awesome! Thanks!

Do you have a link to any mechanical drawings for the heater? I'm sure I can google around but I want to make sure I'm building for the correct one.

I couldn't find the source for the one I used. mine's the 23mm new cartridge version!

I just found it in my download's folder so here you go! I am 99% sure this is the one.

EDIT: Found the link too! https://grabcad.com/library/e3d-v6-hotend-4 if you rpefer to download it here!
Even more EDIT: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/JkjuBaVFXOSv5Hjn/V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf the sketch!

Ah perfect, thanks, that's everything I need!

Hey! I designed this sock and printed it in tpu and it fit perfectly! My issue is that tho I have zero idea on how to turn it into a mold xD

I thought maybe it could help?

All done!


Sorry for the delay in getting this out, I've been swamped with my other upcoming

Silicone Sock for E3Dv6 OEM heatblocks

Nicely done! Cura does have a "mold mode" in the experimental section, but I don't think it will work very well for this kind of geometry. I'm working on the mold for this one now, should have it posted later today.

I'll also post the factory file so you can open it in fusion360 and look at the history to see how I built it.

Yay! Thank you! Really looking forward! I'll probably buy a High temp gasket maker tomarrow ^_^

Just fyi, I recently had to buy some oil proof rtv for a mower valve job. The stuff is black instead of red. I made some socks with it and they work just as good as the red stuff... but the color matches my rig better. :)

Thanks for the design, Does anybody have smell/odor problem after you installed it to heater block? I am experiencing bad smell.

It depends on the kind of silicone you use. Some come with a substance that smells a bit like vinegar at first, but it'll evaporate off after a couple hours of use.

I've only ever used RTV red and transparent. What kind is the black you used?

Is it possible to use a silicone spray lubricant for mould release???

absolutely! I haven't tried this myself but I imagine it would work just fine

Comments deleted.

Would love to see this adapted to the Hexagon hotend used by older Lulzbot printers!

If you can get me some measurements, I'd be happy to make one!

Need the LWD of the block itself, the diameter and location of the holes for the heating cartridge and thermal sensor.

If you can point me at a mechanical drawing or datasheet, that would be even better.

I think this may have what you're after. I'm not familiar with ODS files, I thought they were spreadsheets... http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/hot_ends/Hexagon_v2_Hot_End/

It's an openoffice file version. I'll take a peek

Yep, that's it. Looks very close to the Merlin one, but taller.

OK if that's taller I'll want to find the correct one to do first. Probably will make one for each eventually. Can you check through the PDF's under here and see which is the exact right one?


https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/hot_ends/Hexagon_v2_Hot_End/lulzbot_edition_hexagon_hotend-0.5mm/HB_ao-hexagon_v4.2.PDF is the base piece.

There is a retention plate (https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/hot_ends/Hexagon_v2_Hot_End/lulzbot_edition_hexagon_hotend-0.5mm/retention%20plate%20V2%20.PDF) bolted on to it, so it's an extra 1.5mm in one dimension.

I got my caliper out and measured:
17.67mm wide (including the retention plate)
18.29mm deep
17mm tall

This is the nozzle, it's snug against the base: https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/hot_ends/Hexagon_v2_Hot_End/lulzbot_edition_hexagon_hotend-0.5mm/brass_nozzle_3mm-0.50mm_v0.2.PDF

Here's some assembly docs for the hotend, about halfway down there's a couple of good shots of the assembled unit that show how the plate is located.

Heatblock reference model is complete, and I'm about 80% done with the mold:


Getting a bit late so I'm gonna call it a night. Will finish tomorrow!

Fantastic, that's everything I need. I'll get this whipped up and posted soon

Wow, that looks fantastic. You may need to pull back the coverage on the nozzle a bit, the Lulzbot does auto-bed-leveling by moving the head to the corners of the bed and lowering it until it makes an electrical connection between the tip of the nozzle and washers that are holding down the bed. If the nozzle cover is too long, it'll prevent contact.

I just finished actually. I'm getting everything together to post shortly.

Here's a screenshot with the reference model of the hotend, so you can see the amount of exposed nozzle: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/551477659125678109/552534180580294667/unknown.png

Edit: I should probably explain that the cylinder at the bottom is designed to be cut after the silicone is set. The flat part should be the end of the sock's coverage

Edit2: Done! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471088

Silicone Sock for Lulzbot Hexagon Hotend

2nd try no luck...
I tried with cream for hands ...no luck
now i give a try for oil, we will see in next 24 hour

Feedback I've gotten from another user suggests that sanding the printed surfaces and/or using epoxy coating to smooth it helps greatly. There's also silicone release spray you could try

Can we use any vegetable oil instead of soapy water?

Give it a try and let us know what happens! I've never used oil before but that might work

Ok, what’s the secret to this. I have been completely unsuccessful.
I have tried 4 times. Each time it sticks or rips . I am using the copper high heat.
Can someone give me some tips? I’ve tried waiting a few hours to 24 hours. I’ve tried lots of soapy water and very little soapy water

It might be the kind of soap you're using. I had a batch of dish soap I tried that just didn't work for this kind of thing. You don't want hand soap or that foamy kind. Old-fashioned thick, goopy type of soap seems to work best. A healthy 2-second squeeze into a quart-sized tupperware seems to work well for me. You can adjust as needed for size

Thanks, Do my steps sound right to you?

  1. Dunk parts in very soapy water
  2. Do not dry parts
  3. Start filling with silicon from the bottom up to the top, making sure no air bubbles are created.
  4. Insert the cap and squeeze tightly, causing the silicon to overflow
  5. clamp pieces together
  6. remove excess silicon
  7. wait 3-5 hours or 24 hours then remove?
  8. Let cure outside of the mold.

Most of that sounds right. I tend to not clean off the excess silicone until it's cured, partly because it's easier to clean and partly cus it's easier to tell when the silicone has set. Most of the time I let the silicone cure for about 5-6 hours in the mold before I pull it, then let it dry out and got cure for another 8-12 (overnight)

Excellent Job , my burnt fingers Thankyou :)

You're very welcome! If you have any improvement ideas, feature ideas, or alternative heat blocks you'd like made, is be happy to oblige

This is awesome py0ball, thanks a ton!

Not to detract from your thing, but after molding 7 socks with 2 different printed molds, it seems the nozzle part is just too big for the nozzles I have (the stubby kind like shown in your rendered image). I can see in that image it looks like the nozzle isn't flush with the block... so maybe it was modeled that way intentionally (maybe you use a washer on your nozzle?). Either way I had to trim the nozzle part mostly off to clear my prints. So not ideal, but the resulting socks otherwise fit like a glove on my clone e3dv6.

So I remixed your insert and shell files to reduce the height of the nozzle part by 1mm. This should provide a nice stretch fit over the nozzle tip. I squirted rtv in it an hour ago to produce the first part. So I will see how well it fits tomorrow evening, and reiterate if needed. Once I have a sock that fits well, I'll post the remix for all to use.

Cool beans! Yeah I never mount the nozzle flush with the block because that leaves no room to adjust, and prevents you from being able to torque it down while it's on the extruder and heated up. Generally I mount the heatbrake a little lower in the block, then tighten everything down over the extruder is together and I can apply heat

Same issue here with the E3D oem model.I end up having to trim the majority of the mold off. Could you maybe make a model that removes about half of the cup allowing more of the nozzle to be exposed...or just a version that using a ring to just seat around the nozzle like oem models. Even with needing to trim the molds...they are fantastic compared to the E3D oem socks. I have had 2 different oem socks styles fall off and ruin prints and the block. I think we just need about half of the mold trimmed to choke up on the nozzle more, for us flush mounters...

I think I can manage that, yeah. I'll see about making a version that will have a thinner membrane where the nozzle sits that will be modeled to be a couple mm higher than where the nozzle actually sits, that way the nozzle can stretch the sock around it a bit maybe.

I made a dirty tinkercad mod by just filling in about half of the indention up to the flat edge around the nozzle...then subtracting the nozzle so it sits flush. I retrospect I should have made the hole much larger to allow more silicone to escape the bottle. Will know in a few hours how the mold came out. It would be much nicer if the membrane was moved back a bit and stretched to keep it cleaner. Looking forward to the revisions. I have the OEM E3D if you need it tested.

Sure thing! Let me know how your mod works, and if it does well, post some pics :)

Came out pretty good...This is right out of the mold. I only had to pull off the thin membrane where the nozzle didn't seat perfectly in the groove. Definitely usable! I snipped off the tip of the insert to make sure it would seat. I did a quick tinkercad mod, so the stl import resolution effected the fit a little. Using your model and probably taking half as much off would be about right. It's nice to have the nozzle covered as much as possible for cleanup.

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Nice! I'll do the modification of the original tomorrow. I think I can get it to cover more of the nozzle than you've got with your quick and dirty mod.

If I get to about 0.5mm thickness, I think you could potentially have it stretch over the nozzle and use a hobby knife to trim it away from the aperture just above the print surface line, which should keep it even cleaner (in theory)

Sorry for the delay...got stupid busy. The revision is much closer. I ended up only taking maybe 1mm off around the tip to get a nice clearance. The size itself is much improved though. I also ended up swapping out for a micro-swiss plated...so I can't speak to where the stock e3d style will sit. It should be similar as I seat my nozzles the same. I would say leave it with the extra. It was easy to trim a hair off the tip, which should only be needed if you flush mount your nozzles. Thanks for the tweak!

Glad to hear it's better! I just made one for myself. Waiting for it to set and I'll add some pics of it on my printer

I will run a set now and post the results..Thanks again for the great thing!

Ah makes sense. I use a different tightening procedure... heat the up the block, tighten nozzle, then tighten heatbreak (using the heatsink as a handle). I suppose with my method torque is limited by the heatbreak snapping at the thin neck, but it also provides better thermal contact between block and nozzle. I also haven't had it come loose on me during a print, so I have stuck with it.

Hey man, I got another couple of requests for a version that supports flush-mount nozzles. Just thought you might want to know I'm working on that now ;)

There's an experimental geometry version available for OEM v6 blocks right now, but I'm currently having to port this block into Fusion 360 before I can make a newer version

hi,why in Shell.stl at angles blind holes?

They're spaces for the soap water to escape into. During my testing I found small amounts of water would get trapped in the corners and under the nozzle because of water being trapped under the silicone. The holes give enough room for the silicone to fill the entire shell on most cases. After the silicone has cured, those extra little parts can be easily clipped off for a flush surface

Awesome idea. I think this is the main reason and use of 3D printing. Of course this is making 3D printer parts with 3D printer. But the overall idea/technology can be easily expanded to other usage - like automotive parts/molds :) Very inspiring.

Thank you! I originally started designing these to address issues with PETG filament buildup on my nozzle, which was effecting print quality.

I'm definitely planning on expanding into other areas with this idea though. I've got some hole automation devices that could use some custom flexible parts and/or waterproof parts