NOTE: instructions for assembly in the "post-pinting" tab
This is a dual 40mm fan mount for the Wanhao Duplicator6 / Monoprice Ultimate. I used two Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX due to the high build quality and the vibration dampening pads. Other 40mm fans may not fit due to dimentonal differences and cable locations. But you are welcome to try :D.
You do not lose any build volume in your printer with this mount attached!
2x Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX
8x M3 x12mm socket head screw
4x M3 x 6mm socket head screw
8x M3 nut
1x a big M3 washer of sorts (may also be printed) to distribute forces while installing the M3 nuts
More information on assembling and installing this modification can be found under the post-printing tab.
Important: I'm using the Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit with the better cooling block. I don't know if the distance between the ducts and the printbed on a stock printer is still roughly the same. If you try it and the distance is too small, let me know!!!
There are two versions of the main mount body. The only difference is the inlay for the hot surface warnig sticker. If you still have it, take the opportunity, add this little detail and improve the professionalism of your printer. :D
I used the Colorfabb XT-CF20, a carbon fibre reinforced co-polyester. The important thing here when choosing a material is the temperature resistance.
Step1: Print your parts and clean them up.
Step2: Use a M3 socket head screw to pull and seat the M3 nuts in the according hexagonal holes in te mounting flange of the duct. I used a big M3 washer to distribute the forces. Any load spreading contraption will do. !!!Just use one!!!
If done correctly, the M3 nuts should be about 0.5mm below the outer mounting flange surface.
Step3: Mount the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX to the duct using four M3x12mm socket head screws. Don't tighten them too hard. There should remain a slight gap between the duct and the main body of the fan, otherwise the vibration dampening pads are useless. The wires should be taken out of their protective sleeves. The yellow wire can be cut off, it won't be necessary for this application.
Step4: Insert the fan and duct into the main mount body. Be extra careful about the two wires and insert them into the according cable channels. This is designed as a interference fit between the mount and the duct. The fan should only directly touch the mount with the upper vibration dampening pads. The connection holding the fan inside the mount is between the outer mounting flange surface of the duct and the lip on the inside of mount. Press the duct into the mount using light pressure and work your way around the four corners, only advancing it bit by bit. You may also exert some force on the bottom of the screws using a pen or screwdriver.
Step5: As these fans are 12V and the printer uses 24V, I connected the two fans in series using one of the 3M scotchlok connectors included in the Noctua fan package. I was just too lazy for soldering :D. There is a really easy to understand scheme in the gallery if you need to look this up.
Step6: Connect the remaining two wires to a 2-pin connector (make sure the polarity is correct) and plug them into the old cooling fan slot. Use four M3x6mm socket head screws to mount the whole assembly to the printhead, using the already excisting holes for fastenig the linear bearings. The socket head screws should not bottom out on the grub screbs deeper within the hole (make sure beforehand).
Step7: Congratulations. You now have installed a part cooling system which cools the parts and not the heater block. Also, if you still had the hot surface warnig sticker from the printhead and printed the mount version with the inlay option, it even looks professional :D.