Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
DaHai8

My HyperCube Evolution

by DaHai8 Apr 2, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Great version of the HEVO, one question which is the stl for the direct driver hotend/extruder?

Extruder_Mount_and_Cable_Constraint.stl

Thank you

I already made a full sized HEVO and want to make a smaller one with a 235x235mm heatbed where the mounting holes are 203x203mm. The HEVO calculator in Scott3D's files have hard limits that do not allow me to enter my hole mounting spacing. Also it makes the minimum width 400mm. Any suggestions to get around this and calculate needed extrusions? I want my build size to be 235x235x200mm. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi DaiHi :)
Plz Help me
I dont found one of your file in zip below
in video part 3 u printed a part of printer but it isnt in your zip file
Thanks DaiHi

Quick question what is the difference between the foot_100 micron and the foot_200 micron?

Tolerances.
The 100 micron foot is 0.1mm tolerance between it and the 3030 extruded aluminum.
The 200 micron foot is 0.2mm tolerance.
You want the foot to fit very tightly so it doesn't fall off if/when you move the printer, but not so tight that you can get in on.
So which one you use depends on the accuracy of your printer printing them.
Hope this helps

Comments deleted.

Still using Smoothieware. But I do plan on move over to Marlin 2.0 once it becomes stable.
Sorry I can't help at this point.

DaHai8,

Where did you buy all the parts for this printer? I've found a BOM package in AlienExpress that lists a complete kit. Is this what you are using?

I want to replicate your build. For the red parts as posted in your video, do you sell them already printed? This will be my first 3D printer.

Thanks!

Rob

P.S. Sorry, I don't sell the printed parts. Someone in the Facebook group (mentioned in my other reply) might be able to print them for you.

I purchased the parts individually, mostly off AliExpress, some locally. I don't have any experience with the kits, so I can't say if they are any good or not. There are many people on the Facebook 'Hypercube Evolution 3D Printer' group that have used the kits, they might be able to recommend some for you.

Thanks for the prompt reply. I will go check the FB grp page.

Can you send me that file, i change in the F3d

Download it from the Thing Files page

I've uploaded the F3D file to the Thing Files page. But you can also import stl files into F3D and edit them as well. There's lots of videos on YouTube on how to do this.

The Quick Change Universal Spool Holder part (which I linked for you in your previous comment), is not my part. It was created by Foreverwinter. If you look through the Thing Files listing of that part, you will find the F3D designs there.

The drilling does not give because I have inner squares. Do you have the design in solid works or fusion? So I can change the drilling?

Hi, you have the rest of the spool holder files ?

You can find the universal spool holder here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241566
Cheers!

Quick Change Universal Spool Holder

Why it has to be 3030. It can be a lot cheaper using 2020 profile :(((

Does not have to be 3030. Its what I used to make mine. Feel free to use whatever side extruded aluminum you wish.

Hello,
I was very interested in your project and I decided to do something on it as well.
At the beginning I want to design everything in Rhinoceros, and by inserting your 3D models do not agree to the mounting of the Z line guides are obstructed relative to the center of the printer in the X line. The bottom mount was downloaded from the HyperCube Evolution folder and the upper ones from yours. Can I find somewhere correct, matching ??
Best wishes and thank you for the project.

Thanks for the feedback.
The bottom mounts attach primarily to the side of the 3030 extruded aluminum and are thinner on the horizontal plane than the 3030 extrusions. The top mounts attach to the top of the 3030 extrusions and are slightly wider.
So you will notice there is a 5mm reveal on the out edge of the bottom mount while only a 1mm reveal on the top mount. In essence, the bottom aligns itself with the inside of the 3030 extrusion while the top with the center of the beam. This brings the top mount outward (or the bottom mount inward - however you wish to view it), in relation to each other.
There is also significant play in the mounting holes with the grove in the extrusions to allow for fine adjustment of the parts. So aligning via the mounting holes not correct.
I have this configuration assembled, without modification, as you can see in my videos, and have no issues with binding and are smooth rods are vertical and parallel to each other.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!

A few of questions for you:

  1. Where do you order the aluminum extrusions from?

  2. Are they cut to length by the supplier, or do you cut to length yourself?

  3. Assuming that the supplier cuts them, how accurate are the lengths?

Just buy them! If you have a normal chopsaw! Carbide Blade fine teeth for wood! Not a must but preferred! You can cut your own with no issues. IT will not hurt your blade and they will be cut perfectly even! Cut slowly don't slam the blade down into the metal! Don't use on steel~ only aluminum!

Aliexpress has a few suppliers for the 3030 and 2030 aluminum extrusions, and many of them will custom cut it.
I didn't cut mine as I don't have accurate enough tools, so my local supplier cut them to length for me and they were very accurate (much better than I could have done).
I would assume that most online suppliers that are willing to cut custom lengths would be very accurate as they would have the machinery to do so.
Hope this helps.

i m wondering i i can fit my 220 x 220 bed ?? is there a possible adjustment to the bed support for 20mm ??

Scott 3D has a spreadsheet calculator that allows you to customize the printer size. You can try that to see if you can set a custom size for your print bed:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103

HyperCube Evolution

ok thanks....i asked you because i see a small gap on both sides so i guessed that a 220 bed could fit...so i dont change much from your build

thnaks anyway ...waiting for your next video

I think you're right. The bed I got is 214x214, so an extra 6mm should be no problem. You will need to extend the bed supports slightly, and it will be difficult to access all that area - depending on the hot-end style you use.
Hope to have the next video out this weekend.
Thanks for watching!

i will be using titan aero for hot end...i m happy with it......and about the bed suport extensions i dont think that will be difficult....
i dont want to throw away my existing ultrabase bes 220 x220.....
see you soon

nice and clean work....next month i will be starting one....i will be having some spares from my anet a8....do you think that pla printing parts will be a problem???? thanks

Short-term, it should be OK.
But I would highly recommend reprinting them in PETG with your Hypercube once it is built.
PLA is too brittle and unforgiving under stress.

ok thanks for the tip....i will use corner hard steel connectors so the rest as you said will be printed when the cube is finished

by the way are you going to base electronics on ramps 1.4 because i have a spare one xaxaxaxax also tmc 2130 drivers

talk soon

I'm going to try a 32bit board, Azteeg X5 GT. It can run Smoothieware as well as Marlin. I'll also be using the tmc2130s for the X&Y motors

ok i will be watching your progress and we talk again along the build.....

I've watched your YouTube videos a few times as I explore the idea of building a Hypercube Evo myself. Great job explaining things as you go yet keeping the videos within a reasonable length. My only criticism is to be aware of where your camera tripod is, in your first video it is so close to the edge of the table I was convinced it was going over! ;P Keep up the good vids, can't wait for the next.

Yup, my table is very small. Look for part 4 soon!
Thanks for watching!!!

I enjoyed watching the build videos! Looks like a sturdy, nice and well integrated design!
Will this printer support a dual Z-axis design? If so, have you already considered the mounting mechanism on the X-axis for the hotend/laser etc? Do you prefer the mount on the Hypercube or the HEVO?
Thanks!

I can't take all the credit. Just remixing what Scott_3D and Tech2c have done. Hope to continue making minor improvements as I go.
Yes, it is build for dual Z-Axis: I don't much care for cantilevered print beds.
I'm using Scott_3D design for the X-Carriage - but still testing it.

I also think that you have to value the starting concepts but it still seems like a great downgrade sizewise, which i really appreciate =), but also an upgrade in stiffness and also the small things is what its really about now since the concepts are great!
Thanks for the reply, i will definetly be following your progress.

Where did you buy your extruded aluminium? Did you cut to size? If So what you use to cut? Thanks!

I bought my local, but you can also find similar on Aliexpress, just be sure to match the Angle (L) brackets to the profile. I got bit the first round by not doing that. Now I have lots of Angle brackets! ;)
I had mine cut to size for me, it's usually pretty cheap, and more accurate than I could ever do.
Use Scott_3D's spreadsheet to calculate sizes for you (see his link in the Thing Details (Remix section).
Hope this helps.