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danieledm

DDM Electric Violin

by danieledm Mar 31, 2018
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The violin plays well! Here's a tweet with a photo next to an Antonius Stradivarius from 1732.
https://twitter.com/ghard/status/1178378746467950592?s=20

Does this violin use all right hand tuning pegs, all left hand, or two of each?

HI, did anyone have trouble with the screws. I ordered all the screws but cant make any fit?

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can anyone tell me where the pick up should be located ?
thanks
roger

Hallo,
eine Verlängerung der Rundungen von Body-part1 um jeweils 1 cm würde das Anbringen einer Schulterstütze sehr erleichtern.
Mit besten Grüßen
Werner

Hi,
Has anyone actually used it to play violin? I find it very difficult to tune: are the strings at correct length? + can someone explain their setup for the electric part? Where do you put the microphones for the strings +cable ?
Thanks!

Hallo axellea,
die Saitenlänge ist korrekt. Zum Stimmen braucht man (mindestens) den Kammerton a mit 440 Hz, dann nach Gehör oder ein Stimmgerät. Günstig ist cleartune. Die Geige klingt ohne elektrische Verstärkung nicht. An einer ausführlichen Erklärung dieser Maßnahme wäre ich auch interessiert.
Mit besten Grüßen
Werner

Ok, at least it's good that the length of the strings is correct (I had difficulties tuning E). It's not very easy to tune because the sound is very low, but I manage to.
If anybody could post how they electrify the violin, I'd be very interested. Thanks

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thanks it's very beautiful

hola me gustaría imprimirlo pero quisiera saber que tal es el sonido

Wonderful ! I've started building one. I thing a few things should be noted:

  • I stupidly printed it 3/4 because I wanted a 3/4 violin. But that won't work as such, because the holes for the strings etc will also get printed 3/4 !
  • I bought 6 guitar tuninng keys from eBay. Stupidly again note that you get left side tuning keys and right side tuning keys, so make sure to put the right ones in ;-)

How did you paint it? It's very nice, how do you get that glossy aspect?

Print orientation? Have you printed some of the neck pieces horizontal? Any downside? (ie. on a 200mm x 200mm bed?) I've printed the Hovalin where the neck is horizontal, seems okay - but wanted to confirm if anything is different here?

Hi Craigwmiller, I've printed the parts in the same position of the stl file in the 200x200x200 work space of my Prusa printer. The neck was printed in vertical, but i don't think there are problem if you print the Neck part 2 and 3 horizontally

Hi. I'm printing this.
Can I use a smooth 8mm x 350mm metal rod? Or is 370mm necessary?

Thanks!

Hi saftemaelk, The rod function is to prevent the neck bending. Probably the 350mm rod works correctly but is better to have a 370mm rod

Hey, this design is awsome! printing it as we speak :D

Has anyone made a shoulder rest for this though? i've got a long neck :P

Did you, by chance, use supports for the neck parts? Especially NECK-Part_3?

Yes, I used the supports on the part 1 and 3

Hello to all!
I made mine (after the original firecardinal design) BUT left all steel parts aside - the main rod is an 8mm CARBON FIBER ROD ($8.50 from China), and all screws were replaced by PLA dowels printed lengthwise (wooden chopsticks turned to size would do too) and used black epoxy glue (slow curing!)
By this method I saved about 150g in really unnecessary weight. The original (steel) violin has 920g, my second built came out at 756g (electrics & battery included).
To get a more natural "feel" I use a strip of veneer (black walnut) and glued it to the neck with CA glue . Sanding to 400 grit and finishing with 4 layers thinned polyurethan lacquer, 400 grit in between, and final sanding to 1000 grit.
For you 'imperial' guys - use a long number 'O' drill to open up the long bores from 0.3" to 0.316" (8mm).
The violin came out very nice and playable. And holds the tuning quite a long time too, but I would advise to relieve the tension for long term storage.
By the way, I built the Cello by O'CANE too using a 12mm CARBON FIBER ROD and absolutely NO screws (apart from fixing the tuners and electronics) and came to a total weight of 1720g! All joints are glued (here in white) epoxy. OK, the aluminum spike has 2 steel screws for length regulation. The knee rests sit on carbon fiber TUBES. A 12mm dia by 1000mm blank drawn steel rod - as per design - would have had about 900g alone, the carbon fiber rod has just 163g!! and is stiffer too ($23 from China).

What kind of epoxy did you use? How is it holding up?

It is perfectly holding its part - I tried to break a flat joint of about 9cm² - well, the parts (35% infill) deformed, but the glue held (120kg / cm² calculates to about 1080kg holding power....;-)
I'm using a cheap cream-white epoxy glue I get from Poland by the name DISTAL classic, but JBWeld or any other SLOWCURING epoxy (24hours) will do as well. DO NOT USE the fast ones as they tend to stay elastic. You could use laminating epoxy resin and mix it with microballoons - I myself prefer tubes as the resin sold in bottles or cans is a messy affair unless you use it often and have a pump on the container as per the West System. If you need much of resin these cans are a cheaper solution though.
Hope that helps.

Nice improvements; I made one of the first design and it worked well. I'm making one now in red/black as pictured.

I've got an idea to help beginning players - add "frets" to the fingerboard. There are plastic overlays available but an integral one would be better. Then you could substitute the regular neck when desired.

Hi Erick, thank you. My violin is still under construction because I'm waiting the electronic components. Do you have the correct frets position for this neck? So I can add a new version of neck with frets!

I could work them out - it is based on scale length (bridge to nut length of string). The first fret is placed at square root of 12 times scale length, and successive frets are then the same factor of the remaining length...

Check here for a web app that can be used to get the exact placement (again, based on scale length) https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html - choose mandolin (as that is a "fretted" violin in practice)