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Kerree12

Prusa Mk2.5 Mk3 90 Deg Heatbed Cable Bracket for MK52 V2 Heatbed

by Kerree12 Mar 24, 2018
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This cable cover gave me lots of troubles with my MK3S, I could not screw on the smaller cable holder, only the bigger top piece to the build plate. After that was well and done, the extruder and heat block thermistor wire were hitting and rubbing on it because it sits too high from the build plate, actually pushing the bed down during calibration before every print started. Would not recommend this heatbed cover.

This cover caused my back left calibration point to fail. The hotend cables hit the top of this when its all the print head is around back left of the bed. It was enough to push the bed down 1- 2 mm. I would not recommend using this cover and using the 45 degree or something slimmer.

Serious question....why are the cables being fed to the right where they run the risk of fouling the build volume and the printer, when they could be run to the left away from everything..? As far as I can see, this would also increase the amount of slack cable in a positive way, since the circuit board is further left than the origin point to begin with.

If the cables fed to the left, the cables will run under the Rambo and hit a bunch of other cables.

I think because these are for use inside an enclosure, and since the HB connections are on the left you need to route them to the right (or you will run close to a wall). At least that is the case inside my enclosures.

Does this work now with the MK3 or ar all the issues mentioned still there?

Design is flawed. The smallest part doesnt fit and bends the biggest part. Zortrax slicer software can't slice it. Felix 3D printer can't print it properly. Pretty often stuff you get from Thingiverse you need to do a redesign because people don't understand design basics.

Hello I printed it and have some too thin wall like in attached pictures

Yep, all fixed. Made the wall 0.8mm thicker, give it a go now.

I'm still getting this issue, but I am using Prusa Slic3r 1.41.0-alpha2

Sorry for the bad fit on some of your printers, I designed the bracket for the clearances that my printer has.

I have double checked my clearance and I have a good 3mm between the wires and the block. This is close and probably should be bigger.

I have reduced the height of the block by 2.5mm to help with clearance but you may run into issues with the crimps hitting the top of the cover with the Mk52 v0.5 heat bed.

Please note that this is for the heat bed with bolted terminals so as to avoid the conductor breaking from repeated flexing. I have had this happen on my MK3 2 times now where I have had trim and re solder back on to the pads.

Great design but this interferes with the hotend cable causing it to fail calibration. Anybody else had luck with other strain relief brackets for an enclosure?

Same problem here. Maybe my Remix would help you without destroying the plexiglass. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946967

Prusa i3 MK3 90 Deg Heatbed Cable Cover
by i3d88

Why would this destroy the plexi glas???

Your remix is wonderful but doesn't help those of us with the screw-tight terminals because the clearance on top of said terminals is too low. I made a remix of your remix and it's working for me. Let me know what you think. And thank you for your work!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3161592

Prusa i3 MK3 90° Heatbed Cable Cover Remix

I tried to use this with the MK3 but couldn't make it work. I'm going to try to see if I can get enough room in the IKEA-based enclosure by moving the LCD display. If not, I might build a little plexiglass extension for the rear of the enclosure.

I agree with a few others here, this part should NOT be used with the MK3 as there are fitment issues with the wire and the carriage wires. Need a different design, not sure why it's so thick.

This causes a crash detection because the hot end wires cross with the heat bed wires under certain circumstances. Small prints are fine but something that fills the build plate won't work.

The extruder wires crash with the heatbead wires at calibration point number 9 using this 90 deg angle part at calibrarion point number 9 in my original Prusa i3 MK3 printer.

I suggest avoiding this print. After installing this, I found that mt back-left corners of prints didn't lat down well. I tried to run XYZ calibration after adding this to fix that, and found that this printed piece is so large that the extruder cable bundle smashes against the part. It flexes the bed several millimeters and makes a significant crunching noise. I suspect my bearing has been crushed and my linear rod may be knackered as well. Hopefully the bed isn't damaged.

Prusa has this on their official enclosure guide, so I've sent them videos of what happens. Hopefully they'll come up with an official model that doesn't risk damaging printers.

The piece looks like a fine fit during printing and and regular leveling, so it's not something you'd notice right away. But if you try to do XYZ calibration, it won't be good.

The part is a good hack but what you describe has happened to me as well sadly. What is worse is that the sharp edges of the middle screw hole ruined the textile sleeving on one of my heater cartridge wires. I was confounded when I saw what happened. I managed to pull the wires higher so that it only mildly hits the part but the damage is done now. I would suggest somehow lowering the height of this part. I also filled it like crazy so it couldn't cut anything anymore.

Wouldn't the cable going to get caught with the printed parts when the bed is far at the back?

Nope, worst case it might slightly touch but it has enough slack to be pushed out of the way.

of some interest : i have a MK2S and it fits into the ikea lack https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2212749 with no change,
that is at tend of print, the heatbed going full front does not touch the front door. Now, for some other ikea lack designs it could be different.

IKEA LACK ENCLOSURE V1

This is for a MK2.5 or the latest MK3 where they a longer bed. My cabinet is a STUVA cabinet with a SINDVIK glass front door and it is about 20mm too long to fit in with the stock bracket

Tried that and the terminal can only move across to about 45deg before it hits the machine screw that holds the bracket onto the bed or comes too close to the SMD resistor for the LED.

With the terminals at 45 deg they still stick out too far and I need every mm cut down to fit in my enclosure as the MK52 board is about 15mm longer than the MK42.

I tried a few different options like packing up the terminals with washers, turning full 90 deg and using the screws for the terminals to hold it down and also moving the terminals to underneath the bed. You also need to consider height as the back of the hotend passes over the bracket when printing on the rear LH side.

I have seen terminals in the aerospace industry that have a factory bend like the ones I bent up except they are a little bit longer. I gave it a go on a test terminal and it worked pretty good with no cracking of the conductor.

Why wouldn't you just loosen the terminal and move then to that angle?