When the Harbor Freight 20 Bin Medium Portable Parts Stoage Cases go on sale, you can get them for less than $5. Not a bad deal for injection molded polypropylene cases, but the bin sizes aren't quite right for electronics parts, printer parts, etc.
These trays should work with:
The included STLs are sizes I needed and used.
Some of these stack atop each other to pack similar parts layers in the box.
They are optimized for 0.4mm nozzles printing 0.1mm layer height.
Using the 'Open in Customzier' link above, you can change the parameters in an interactive way and get the perfect STL for what you need.
OpenSCAD Module Parameters
- Number of 'units' it occupies in the storage case. (tray size)
- Number of 'buckets' of sub-divisions inside the tray. (compartment grid in tray)
- Upper Lip size. (more rigid top)
- Wall thickness. (To optimize for printing, avoiding gap fills, etc.)
- Is Top: Defines if a box is the 'top' box in a stack of boxes. Default is true.
The OpenSCAD file includes some guidelines on ideal wall_thicknesses for some common nozzle / layer combos.
I was inspired by some other things to get a bit of organization in my hobby spaces.
After trying out the other things, I came to the following conclusions:
- I wanted to customize the sizes and sub-divisions.
- I wanted to optimize the wall thickness to make them print faster / better.
- I wanted to print trays that were less high, stacked nicely, and let me pack smaller components in easier to manage bins and save wasted space in the storage case.
I'm not a solidworks guy, so I took some time to put together an OpenSCAD file and started generating trays. Here they are. Hope it helps you out!
The STLs included above are optimized for 0.4mm nozzles with 0.1mm layers.
If you're using a different nozzle size, I highly recommend you re-generate new STLs to get an optimal wall_thickness, using the OpenSCAD source.
Infill isn't required, but may be necessary on the feet and bottom of the tray if you're not using many top / bottom layers.
I've printed my trays with nylon trimmer string, where I found it best to print them upright on the feet, with support material, and a 1-degree overhang threshold. I use 3 top and 3 bottom layers, which gives me a few layers inbetween, where I use 50% grid infill. Thinner layers prevent warping with nylon, hence my 0.1mm layer and half-void inner layers on the bottom.
If you're printing stacks (fractional box heights), make sure you use the is_top = false on boxes which aren't the top box.
In later tests and with other material, I've been orienting the boxes feet-side-up (upside down) on the bed, and printing _withoutsupport if I have enough subdivisions in the box. It's much faster. Also, if you spread the support pattern out a bit (I've been doing 8mm spacing with 1.5mm interface spacing) you can still print upside down and get really nicely formed feet without much extra waste.