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3D Printed Kant Twist Clamp

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Mar 21, 2018
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Omg this thing is a hell to print. First the locking things from male parts are breaking very easily away. I needed five tries to optimize the setting that they are strong but still nicely printed. Then the tolerance of the rotating parts are so tight that i need to print all parts at least 3 times with different settings and then filing them a lot... I thought my printer was good calibrated but this thing teached me that i was wrong. Man, i like the design of the clamp but for me its a challange and a waste of filament to print this in a working condition...

Being a machinist I thought this idea is absolutely awesome and had to give it a go. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I am new to printing, I have an anet a6 with many upgrades, brand new nozzle and throat. I started off by printing the thread, I wasnt sure what was meant by 6 parameter so I didnt do that but chose a 50% infill using copper infused pla. 200 head and 60 bed. This is what I got and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I'm hoping you could give me some insight on what's going on here. Thank you for your time.

The bottom looks good but the threaded part with the overhangs looks to be the problem, right? If overhangs are an issue with PLA its normally because there is not enough cooling. Do you have your cooling fan turned all the way up? Do you have a large fan with a good nozzle?

Thank for replying, I have the stock anet a6 cooling fan with a suggested duct from thingiverse running at 100%. I haven't printed on this printer yet I just got it used so I'm learning it. I printed this part on my cube pro and it printed perfect so I've just got to learn this anet printer and its settings. I've attached photos of my fan and duct and also the part I printed on my cube pro.

The cube pro threads look really nice! I'm not familiar with the anet printer so I probably won't be much help. If that is the nozzle people are having luck with then I don't see why you would have an issue assuming you have a decent quality blower.


Looks like the name is still trademarked, so did you ask for permission to use it on your part?

No, why would I? It's a fan piece that I made because I think the design of the clamp is awesome, its not like I'm not trying to sell it. It's no different than everything with a Star Wars logo on this site. Besides, just the same I would guess that it infringes on the patent as well.

Because I've seen people sued for less. Patents expire in roughly 25 years, give or take, but trademarks do not. The trademark on Kant Twist is still active, and according to TOS on this site:

"3.3 Acceptable Use Policy. The following is the acceptable use policy which sets forth the restrictions Users must adhere to on use of the Sites or Services (“Acceptable Use Policy”):

(a) You agree not to use the Sites or Services to collect, upload, transmit, display, or distribute any User Content (i) that violates any third-party right, including any copyright, trademark, patent, trade secret,--"

What others do or do not shouldn't be a considering factor on whether you should upload content that you have no permission for.

I printed this on my MK3 with PLA. Scaled up 2540% Everything is perfect. Some of the round inserted parts are tight but just work them back and forth for about 5mins and they are perfect tolerance.

Looks great! Glad it worked out so well.

The KT_CLEVIS pieces are just a little small for me, when clamped onto the screw it leaves a slight gap and if I pinch them together hard the screw can't turn. Any advice? Printer is Prusa MK3, using Prusa PLA

Hmm... What material are you printing with? Maybe the unsupported top of the radius is dropping down since its printed upside down.This could happen if it does not cool fast enough. Does the hole look round? Does the screw and thread work alright? If so, you could try printing it right side up, so the large radius is on the bed. You would just need a brim or some support to keep it from tipping over. You can't really scale it up because then it wont fit in the pocket, that would have been a easy solution.

Using PLA, on Prusa MK3. The parts all look perfect, but the inside of the clevis halves are a little rough, same for the inside holes of the clamp pads (they are also really tight). I was printing at 0.2mm layers, I'll try those parts again maybe at 0.1mm and maybe re-orient the clevis halves so they stand on end. If all else fails, I have a drill press, I could always just drill them out a tiny bit :)

If the holes are tight then I have to ask if you have calibrated your extruder multiplier? I think most MK3 tend to over extrude a bit and this will help with that.

I´m just printing this nice tool, everything turns out nice. However printing the thread kills me. I´ve tried several times with PLA, PETG and Carbon PLA, 0.1 layer and 0.2 layer, also different temps from 205 til 220 for PLA and 220 til 235 for PETG. But the stability of the rod is so less so it will break through very easy. Walls around 6 times, infill up to 40%. The thread itself is ok, but all printed parts will break to easy and now I am looking for any solution. Did you have any thing like that too or never had that kind of less strenght?

I don't quite understand, are you saying the tread prints ok but is not strong enough or that you are having issues printing the thread because its not as stable? I have only printed it out of PLA and its strong enough to clap things but I would think if I tightened it really hard it's going to break. I would think printing it out of PETG would make it even stronger.

Thanks for your quick response. The thread comes out ok.The rod will break very easy. Here a picture. Even with PETG it was not very stable. I have tried several settings, but they were not satisfying. However after printing a lot of these threads I still have one which is printed from PLA and did not break during assembly or before. So I could complete one clamp, which is working.

I have not printed with PETG yet. Do you get as good of layer adhesion with it as you do PLA? Maybe when the screw is tightened it pulls apart the layers? I am surprised that printing with a higher temperature did not help.

Higher temp helped a bit. But layer adhesion is the thing in this case. There was no great difference between PLA and the PETG in bending and breaking also in combination with printing temp. However one PLA part is still ok and assembled. When you print this in PLA everything was fine?

Yes, no problems once I revised the design. Actual Kant Twist uses a smaller fine thread, the first one I designed used the same thread and it broke pretty easily so I increased the diameter and changed from a fine thread to a trapezoidal thread which make it alot stronger. I have tightened them pretty tight and I haven't had it break.

Right in the Kant :)

God I love AvE

muy lindo pero cuando yo lo imprima borrare esa mierda de "printed in US-NA" (Estados Unidos de norte-america de mierda)

I put that on their as a joke as the original Kant Twist says "Made in USA". You are welcome to do whatever you want to it but regardless, God bless America!

Hello. I am from Clampco, and I Kant believe you would just steal our name like this. I would like to sue you for 100 million dollars.

You kant sue me because I kant afford it!

Impressive design - thanks! What modeling program do you use?

Sure! I use Autodesk Inventor.

Horizontal pins might be stronger

Very awesome design!!

I'm glad you like it! As a test I tightened one until it broke but it was the thread that broke so I thought that would be the weakest part. However, I did have a pin brake when I tried to disassemble two arms. They don't come apart very easily, I would not recommend putting them together unless you have all the parts in place. If you do have to take them apart make sure pull them apart evenly, if they get cocked the pins will break pretty easily. I was thinking about making a version that has slightly smaller pins so they go on and off easier. If you are still having issues with this let me know and we'll give it a try.

The Scale of the STL files appears to be off. When I loaded the large female file into cura it's only 6mmX2.4mm

Its designed in inches so if your slicer doesn't recognize it you will need to scale it up 25.4 x's or, 2540 percent.

Ha ha, nice name, every time I’ve seen one of these, its so twisted its unuseable, nice model and print job!!!

Thanks! But actually Clampco patented the name and original design back in 1955! The credit should go to them. Over fifty years later and the design has not changed.