Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Luckyman

CR-10 Bed Adjustment Knobs **STL's for CR-10S/CR-10 S4/Ender 3**

by Luckyman Mar 13, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I printed these 4 and they look amazing. I will replace the original ones because one of them is broke.
The questions I have are the followed:

  • Do I need new 4mm screws or can I use the original ones?
  • How many nuts do I need? 2 for each side to lock the screw against rotating while I'm level the bed?
  • Do I need secured nuts? 1 or 2? Or is a nor Mal 4mm nut enough?
    That I will need a washer is known.

Thanks for your help!

We have found this to be an essential FIX to the Ender-3 and not an upgrade! However, as others here have noted use of another 4mm nut to capture the bolt to the bed will in turn require a change to the spring to one with a larger inner diameter so that the spring goes over the nut. You may also need a shorter spring. The heavier/stronger the spring the better. A further complication to the Ender 3 is the inability to adjust the Z limit switch without modifying it. So one needs to find the optimal sizes for the spring or it will not fit... or mod the limit switch mount.

An update... After locking the m4 bolts to the HBP and attempting to replace the bed on to the Y axis shelf we learned that the holes do not line up. One was off by about .5mm. It had to be drilled out to a looser tolerance. Prior to this FIX the bolt must have been off perpendicular. As such it would have made leveling the bed a bit trickier. If this is systemic it's not good for Creality.

Hi
I'm new to 3d but I'm pretty sure I have the same issue with the holes not lining up perfectly on my Ender 3. Do you know what size springs I should order? I think I understand what needs to be done but any details on the fix would be appreciated, I didn't get the part about the Z-limit switch, are you saying that since the switch is fixed in place we need to make sure the bed can adjust to the level of the switch, and this is why the spring size is important?
Thanks for the info, I'm really enjoying Tips and Tricks podcast.

Thanks! We are about to do 2 segments on this subject in the coming weeks. These springs can work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076LVLHP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't mod the limit switch.

The z limit switch moves up and down pretty easily on the ender 3. Loosen 2 bolts and slide it up the rail a hair. I had to do this with the stock knobs when i added a 3mm mirror bed.

Just tried the locknuts and washer on my cr10-s and it bottomed out, gonna look for some thinner washers I can use, it was close to being able to level but not quite, since I dont want to get things setup to print then have to re-do the whole bed.

These are great! I ended up just using a normal 4mm nut. All the added hardware on my printer made it impossible to level bed as I ran out of spring compression. I ended taking all the hardware off and just using the 4mm nut and a washer. It works beautifully without having the screw spin.

Comments deleted.

Sure do. You have to use nuts on the backside of the bed, but you don't want to tighten them up without having a spacer of some sort to prevent you from tearing the bed up. My S4 came with printed washers that went in between the springs and the aluminum bed, so I just used those. Adding the nuts to hold the screw in place will make the spring compress, but should still work just fine on the S4, but may not work on other CR-10's. I recently made some larger wheels for a CR-10S but the springs were already compressed more so I'm looking for a shorter spring that I am comfortable recommending. One of the pictures shows the printed washer with the nut above the spring, and really.. that distance can be shortened a bit, but it worked good so I left it as is. Hope this helps.

I printed these knobs and they look great! Have you found a way to keep the screws from turning with the knob? I cannot make adjustments without taking the plate off and holding the screw in place with a screwdriver.

Just add a nut directly under the heat bed and tighten it. This way you can stop the screw from turning when leveling the bed.

Needless to say that it is no longer possible to level the bed with a screwdriver from above.
If you have some with a blue nylonring take these.
(Sorry, I don't know the correct english term of them. In German: "selbstsichernde Mutter")