MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Raspberry Pi 3(2) OctoPi Case for Prusa i3 MK3 with Cam-Cable-Spool

by kalleknall Mar 11, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I love this design but am having a problem with the camera. When the cable is in the spool the image flickers then locks up (like photo attached). I have tried several cables but all the same?
If I leave the cable loose it works great. Any ideas would be appreciated


have you tried to make one coil lesser to pool on. I think it disturbs if the cable is spooled thight.

Very nice design you have but do you have an option for just the pi without the camera roller that will attach to the frame?

i've seen an other thing but i can't find it. I've designed this Thing to mount the pi to the Frame https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805682.

Raspberry Pi 2/3 OctoPi Casemount for Prusa i3 MK3

this is a great Case an Mount. It looks very awesome.
But there ist a Problem with the newest Release of the MK3. The Thing-Fan now is mounted angled. So the Mount for the Camera is ab 15mm to short. Would it be possible to make the Raspberry_Pi_Case_Camera_mount about 15mm longer in y?
Here is al link to the new Mount: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prusa-research-summer-update-2018/


Hi, I found an Thing with a new Arm:

Prusa i3 Mk3 Raspberry Pi Camera mount (New extruder)

Hi, does it work with RPi 3B+ ?

Thanks for this.
I printed the left version, but now I wanted the right version.
The right version has no "posts" on each end of the "spool cover" for the main base. ( still works though.

and you're missing the camera arm. but really just need to mirror it.... so no big issues

I tried mirroring the arm, and it comes out too long, and hits the frame. had to trim a substantial amount off.

How the heck is the camera/arm supposed to attach to the Y-axis/build plate? I for the life of me can't figure it out.


just remove the steelspringplate and remove the bottom left screw with the Little spacertube. put the spacer into the hole of the arm (my print holds it without clue). Then slide the arm over the buildplate until the hole will match. insert the screw and check the buildplate movemet.

i hope this helps.

Please do not use PLA (will melt) ,i recomment PETG.

Thanks for putting this design together, I love the concept.

That said, I've had a few problems with it, and would appreciate any advice/input you might have...

  1. The hole for the power supply is too low for the cable I have. do you have any suggestions on a power supply that will fit, or could you raise the ceiling on it?

  2. I have my printer in an Ikea Lack enclosure, and space is pretty tight. This means that the the camera mount sticks out too far for me to use, and keeps hitting the door. I would just use a different arm, but I'm afraid it would pull the cable at an angle, which could cause problems...

  3. it looks like the mounting holes are made for 3mm screws? the Raspberry Pi board I have has holes that are 2.5mm, and I actually broke one of my boards trying to thread a 3mm screw through it. any suggestions?

I'd appreciate any help you could give. Even if you could just upload the autocad files (or whatever you use) I could probably make the adjustments myself. Either way, thanks!

Can anyone who's had any success with this post a link to the exact ribbon cable they used? I've gone through 5 cables (from a pack of 6) and I'm increasingly convinced there's no way they can survive the folding and bending required. I'm wondering if some cables are more resilient, but don't really feel like buying a huge selection in the hope that one of them can take it.

I'm in the same boat. I've lost 3, all adafruit cables so far.

I anticipate having to remove the camera mount in order to fit in an enclosure when printing ABS, since it sticks forward quite far, so I modified it very slightly (just cut a section out) to allow it to be attached/detached without having to remove the heatbed.

Can you explain how the cable is routed / wound in the spool? I've printed everything, but I'm not sure about this step, and haven't been able to figure it out from the pictures.

Thank you! So the cable is just coled around the cylinder? As you pull it out, doesn't it just tighten around the cylinder until it won't come out anymore?


yes hust coiled arround. Depending on the cable quality it should not coiled to tighte arround the cylinder to much. I get some picture errors if this occurs. To avoid this problem you can move the case a bit or reduce windings.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

Does this case actually fasten to the printer in any way, or is it just hooked onto the bottom rail and stays there due to gravity?

It's just hooked tight onto the 3030 Extrusion.

Is it possible to have a modified version if we want it mounted on the right hand side?

I think it's possible. i have to look into the sourcefiles give me few day's. USB-Ports to the front or back of the Printer ?

USB Ports facing the back please :) thank you very much

I've added three new files for the other side. I think Tingiverse needs a few minutes to "build" the new download. the new files are not included yet.

Thank you so much, I shall check in about 30 mins. Thank you :)

Great idea!

What forces pull the camera cable back into the spool? Is it just pushed in by the Y axis movement or is there a spingloaded mechanism or anything like that?


the flatcable is spooled and will go flat again ;-).
So it's a combination of Y axis pushing and spring force of the cable.