THIS IS STILL A WORK IN PROGRESS!!!
This is a Mini CoreXY 3D printer designed to be high end, relatively cheap, and use a bunch of spare parts I had laying around. This printer features...
-- A compact, sturdy, and portable design
-- CoreXY kinematics
-- Sensorless homing
-- Dual Z axis' (levels the X axis)
-- BLTouch leveling probe
-- Mosquito Hotend
For the electronics and firmware, I decided to go with...
-- Duet 2 Wifi 32 Bit Controller
-- 7" Paneldue Touchscreen
-- 24v Power supply
-- Custom portable electronics enclosure
Some other things featured my build that aren't specific to this design are...
-- Bondtech extruder
-- 0.9 Deg X & Y Nema 17 stepper motors
The Mini CoreXY Design
All parts on the printer, with the exception of the spool holder, were designed by me in Solidworks 2018. As stated this printer was designed to be high end, relatively cheap, and use a bunch of spare parts I had laying around.
The Electronics Enclosure
The electronics enclosure was designed by me in Solidworks 2017/2018. It is made out of laser cut 1/4" acrylic w/NinjaFlex feet and is meant to house all electronics and most wiring. I wanted to make all of the wiring organized, neat and proper, so all of the connections have proper pin and terminal connectors. The electronics enclosure features...
-- Portable design
-- 48 Pin main connector
-- Male socket plug
-- Main switch
-- 4x Case fans
The 4x Case fans are actually controlled PWM by the temperature of the CPU and all of the stepper motor drivers. There are two huge 48 pin connectors on the enclosure, only one of which is currently being used. I did this so the electronics can easily be disconnected to make the electronics and printer more portable.
Printer is done being built and wired! I am currently working on configuring marlin. Had a few minor issues with the printer. I put on the printer head backwards, the electronics enclosure isn't big enough for the wiring, and one of the acrylic pieces on the enclosure cracked. Other than that the printer is looking great!
Took a little break from 3D printing as I became extremely busy since my last post. I am still very busy but am slowly working on this printer. The biggest struggle I've been having is getting the SPI to work for the tmc2130s. Apparently the hardware SPI can't be shared with the LCD and drivers so I am currently messing with using software SPI. I also had some issues with wiring most of which are fixed. As of right now I still need to fix the SPI and I need to replace the bowden extruder, as the cheap e3d titan rip off I got from amazon broke already (pretty easily too). Will post any further updates.
Got a Bondtech extruder, and some capricorn tubing the other day to fix the cheap e3d titan knockoff. The only thing left to do is get the SPI working and then comfigure the printer! I am also likely going to replace the lokbuild sticker with pei in the near future. Will post more updates as they come.
Finished all of the wiring! I have been slowly working on this printer, switching electronics from RADDS to the Duet 2 Wifi, making a new electronics enclosure, properly doing all the wiring, setting up the firmware, etc. The printer is now in its final stage; All that is left is to fine tune the firmware configuration. I also updated this whole page as a lot has changed since I last updated it. Pictures shown of the build are current. BOM is not updated, will do so in the near future hopefully. All files for the electronics enclosure have also been added. Will post more updates as they come.
Posted a video above, of the printer running through a 1000mm/s speed test, which it seemed to handle just fine.
I am currently making a number of design changes to the 3D printed parts. Pretty much every printed part is going to change, but almost all of the hardware and the basic design will remain the same. I ran into a few issues while testing the printer. For one, the cheap v6 hotend that I installed, had the thermistor exposed causing the temperature reading to plumit as soon as the fans turned on. I decided to then upgrade to a genuine E3D Volcano, also to be able to print much faster. I have the new Volcano, but the current hotend mount doesnt fit properly so that needs to be changed. A number of the brackets are also cracked as they are too thin so those are being redesigned as well. After already killing one of the cheap limit switches on the Z axis, I decided to make the Z axis use sensorless homing as well. In doing so, I realized the upper Z motor brackets would bend up when the bed homed. So i redesigned the upper and lower Z axis parts to be much stronger and to be able to lock the smooth rods in place with screws, also so they can easily be removed. The new Z axis parts work perfectly and you can see them in the video. I will post those parts soon along with the other changes currently in the works.
(1/21/2019) Preview of the rebuild so far. All that is left is to finish designing the hotend mount, print it out and install it.
Still working on the design of this printer. I decided to switch from the Misumi smooth rods to some cheap chinese linear rails mostly because it was too hard to design parts around the linear bearings, especially for the tool head mount. I also decided to switch to the Mosquito hotend to make the tool head mount much simpler and easier to print. I also updated this page with some new renders of the current design. More updates to follow.
(4/14/2019) Made a number of changes to the printer. Got some great cheap linear rails from China that are working pretty well as you can see in the video. The printer still needs a few more changes and adjustments however. Although the switch to the linear rails decreased the max speed (now the max is about 650mm/s), it helped to increase the print volume (150mm on the X now and 175mm on the Y) and the overall rigidity. I am going to try to tweak the parts and alignment of the build a little in hopes of increasing the max speed. I also am current working on another new Z axis design using a belt driven pulley system, as using sensorless homing with leadscrews is just too inconsistent and unreliable. Also a belt driven Z axis is far more accurate and reliable than leadscrews. I am also redesigning the Z axis because I want to try and move a lot of the weight from the top of the frame to the bottom for better stability. Will post more updates soon.
(5/15/2019) Just about finished and built the new belted Z axis design, however, I still need to rewire the Z axis motors and do a few other small things as well. This video is actually about two weeks old. The design displayed in the video is pretty similar to how it is now, but it is a good deal harder to move than the current version, and has hence been adjusted, reprinted and replaced. I will be posting another update soon, once I have finished rebuilding the printer. Also, thank you to fabrice974 for the inspiration of the pulley system design I used in my Z axis... https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?397,585219,page=2
(8/20/2019) Finally nearing the end! I've still been working on the design for this printer in the months since I last posted and I am just about done. I have completely redesigned the toolhead to be fully modular and compatible with the e3d v6, volcano, and mosquito, you can now also unmount the extruder or leveling sensor and not affect the belts at all, and the toolhead features a system to easily adjust belt tension by tightening a couple of screws. I am also in the process of making a video series on how to build the printer. Will post soon once I finish the build series, and the BOM.