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Universal 3D Printer Smart Enclosure

by JKSniper Feb 13, 2018
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Just transferred payment for 10 euro

Thanks! :) I've sent you files yesterday

Comments deleted.

I just transferred 40 euros! Saw your project too late... already spend money on the lacks and plexiglass already.. but this design is so much better. I just couldn't resist!

Thank you a lot! I've send you files and address confirm mail. It's never too late! Electronics that you will receive is universal and will fit/work for ANY enclosure. However, most of people already have LACK and they upgrade to this enclosure, finding out it's whole different stuff and industrial enough to build and use and forget about. It's reliable, sturdy and lasting.

Will transfer now!
Don't suppose you could let me know what I have to change for a sidewinder x1?

Hey! Thank you! I've send you 2 mails - please respond to the "address check" mail :)

  • The easiest method is to compare Sidewinder X1 dimensions vs. Prusa MK2/MK3 dimensions and add/subtract the dimension of enclosure. You have handy automatic BOM calculator that you can use to make new BOM for your needs. PS: It's better to make slightly bigger than too small, also for future upgrades, as enclosure will for sure outlast 3d printer (20-30 years without problem).

money sent your way dude, thanks

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thanks man! I've already sent files and address confirmation mail. If you can confirm address soon, I'll ship still today with others. :)

thank you, got allot of printing to do :p

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Sent funds over for the full package. Can’t wait to get to building, got a new printer and have been looking for ideas for a better enclosure and this fits what I wanted perfectly.

Thanks a ton! I'll send files & ship the board as soon I get paypal confirmation and you'll receive it on your paypal provided e-mail :) In case of trouble you can contact me over thingiverse with private message :)

Does it work with Aluminium Profile 2020 5mm opening? Or is the base wood plate too weak for the printer? Printer weighs probably around 25kg.

I love it, how the enclosure is look like.
Great Work.

Hi! I am wondering if you have ever seen anyone making an enclosure like this for a Sidewinder X1? I am trying to figure out how much I should expect to pay in materials, and how feasible it is to resize to fit my printer. Thanks for making such a great and involved enclosure!

Hey! For sure, there were a lot of builds of this enclosure for CR-10 and this Sidewinder sure looks quite similar and enclosure would benefit you just the same, no matter if there is Prusa, CR10 or any other printer inside. The size doesn't affect price of the enclosure much, as connectors and small stuff presents fair share and for example 500mm taller enclosure is like +12$ in aluminium profiles (4x500mm). Overall cost of enclosure is all between 120-300USD, depending on the source and if there is electronics installed and if there are all or partial functions. Nice thing is you can build hardware first and then add electronics later. But enclosure is defenitely something I would go for SURE again, as the benefits are bigger than any other upgrades and updates, not only to handling, sound, fumes, smell and protection, but also on print quality itself, storing filament dry etc. Thanks, btw :)

Thank you for the prompt reply, I have ordered the plans :) I'll post a make of it once I am done!

Hello Jure,
Just found your great design in search for an enclosure. I just paypal'd the 40 eur to you. Looking forward to beginning the construction.
Regards, Daniel

Thanks Daniel! I've already sent files and address check e-mail to you :) It will be shipped today too, as I see you already responded to e-mail :) Thanks!

Hi Jure,
I made your awesome enclosure and am almost finished.
I just need to put the PSU outside the enclosure - and this is where i struggled. I spent the last two days designing and printing brackets/ mounts, ... to mount the PSU under the bottom panel. I thought I had a good final version, but during the assembly, I accidentally cross-threaded the inserts in the PSU and this version is now also scrapped. A screenshot of my last version is attached below, if you re curious.

I mean, I could easily make a mount that just fits around the whole PSU and screw it into the wood bottom, but I wanted to design a version, where only the aluminium T-slots are used for mounting and where I can avoid to directly screw into the wood (because it is only 8 mm thick).

Do you have an idea?
Do you know any shared files?

Hope, you can help me out!
Keep up the great work.


Personally... I would just put double-sided tape on PSU and place it directly on the wood panel below. There are such great double-sided tapes in hardware store and both surfaces are flat - it will last 10 years :).

Best regards,

Hi. I want to purchase full package model which prices 40EURO. I'm live in South Korea. Is it possible to shipping the products?

Hello! Sure, full package for 40 EUR will be shipped to South Korea. Actually I shipped there before and it was no problem.

Is it possible to change the way the interface of the display looks? And is the the temperature control system strong enough to keep the enclosure at room temperature? And what is the decibel difference with and without the case?


  • Yes, but changing the display looks is something that's custom and you need to contact me about to arrange source files etc.
  • Well yeah, it can keep enclosure at room temperature or slightly above, but exhaust will be loud and prints will warp that way. It's something that you don't want normally when printing.
  • Can't tell about the decibel difference, as it really depends on how the printer is mounted inside the enclosure (I have soft rubber pads), but it's defenitely much quieter when you close the door. Don't have db measurements....

Ok that's good to hear because I'd like to make it more basic with just white colors. Why would the prints warp though? I never print abs, only petg and pla so I don't want the enclosure to be too hot, I plan to add a duct so that the air can be transported outside (in fear of nano particles that hepa filter can't catch)


Just sent funds for the full package. Looking forward to building this and getting the space back in my office from my current table top setup for my printers..

Works really well even with the small mods I made (with the help of JKSniper) Once again thank you.
Would be nice to have an audible alarm as well as flashing lights! as I done sit next to the printer all the time when its running

Edit Update

Car alarm siren added

Roughly how much does this cost to build in the UK?

Would also depend on the type off printer you have. I have an HyperCube Evalution and the frame from the printer acts as the frame for the enclosure

Roughly around 200gbp for fully build with electronics. However some managed to source aluminium through aliexpress for 120USD (inc. shipping) and found local acrylic shops that made panels out of "scraps" etc. and made it below 170eur in total with electronics. in UK there is no problem to get all the stuff as you could either go local, online in UK or online in EU - mostly all ship there and you got metric extrusions available. I've personally got away for around 220eur in total for everything.

Looks very interesting - does the 'kit' include where to source the aluminium extrusions and corners?

Hinges and fitting and so on? I am in the UK so what you can get locally might not be available here?



Thanks very much - you will see I have just ordered the full kit...


Chris Parsons


Yes! KIT includes BOM, where are links to multiple sources and there is also a source from UK, which was used multiple times by people. There are however also other links, that will probably ship to UK too, and there are also names, codes etc. which will help you if you want to find automation shop in your city to buy components from. (but those are usually more expensive).

Some parts are printed and STL + editable STEP files are included.

Some parts, very common like door handle, can be bought in local hardware or wood store (or printed, why not :) )

PS: You're from UK, so basically everything must be fairly easy to find there, locally and online, some people building this enclosure are from South Africa or Bermuda island, literally middle of nowhere (if you google Bermuda island :D), but still building it :D :D :D

Wow! Small world! I'm also from Bermuda and looking to build an enclosure for my Snapmaker 2! Did the other Bermuda buyer indicate how much it all cost once he finished? We pay an arm and a leg for import.

Hey! Not sure! I've shipped it and I've received confirmation that he received a board and that it's all fine. Not sure about the sourcing...

Replied to my own message, doh!

Thanks very much - you will see I have just ordered the full kit :)


Chris Parsons

How much did it cost to order all of the parts in the UK?

Thank you! I've sent you mail with files already and I'll be shipping board tomorrow if you confirm shipping address. Thanks! :)

Maybe I missed something? Is there a calculator/spreadsheet to work out which parts are needed and consequently how much the build will cost, like the open source printers have? Thanks

I would like the details for a full build for a Zaribo 320. Would I get everything needed for a full build like you have shown for the 40 Euro? Given current exchange rates how much is that US? What would be your estimate on cost for a complete kit to build the whole thing minus the printer? Very interested.

Has anyone built this for the CR-10S yet? I'm very interested in the design but I was hoping to see some build pictures from others using the CR-10S to get an idea of scale.


I'm sure they did, but this comment section is not very populated. To calculate the size required for enclosure it's best to take size of printer and than open Automatic BOM calculator and insert dimensions so that you get enclosure size appropriate for your room, personal height (if it's standing on the floor) and for the printer.

Hello JKSniper,
I am interested in this project and maybe purchasing the 40EUR package.
Can I get your email to get more info.

Hello Brandon!

Sure, you can always contact me anytime on Thingiverse message. https://www.thingiverse.com/messages/compose?username=JKSniper

I also sent you my private mail for easier communication if you prefer that method :)

Best regards,

Hallo, nice project,

haw much money i must take in my hands to get the endproduct?


Due to high shipping cost of such large enclosure, it's much cheaper to build it yourself. I'd be happy to offer final end-product, but it's industrial thing that weights a lot and it's really hard to ship around :) However, electronics and plans can be quickly shipped to make one like this or equip any other with electronics to control it :)

Thank you for your reply.

If im done with my enclosure i will buy your electronics.

have a nice day.

This is exactly what i need for my Cetus 3d. Thanks for sharing. I think that i am also going to add a wifi receiver.

The board comes with custom I/O ports on mainboard, which means you can freely add devices, sensors, connectivity etc. to your liking and edit/add software. :) With Automatic BOM dimensions generator, you will also be able to resize the design simply for your printer/space you got. :)

Do your plans have an option that accounts for the Multi Material attachment?

Hey! Sure! Most people just add 150-200mm to the printer room Z height. I have automatic BOM calculator, which allows you to enter desired dimensions (going from stock enclosure as is) and it will recalculate all the sizes for BOM that you need.

That is great, because you can easily add for example 200mm to the Z if you want MMU, you can add X and Y dimensions if you have different printer, you can also check your table/space if it's large enough and if you have more space, you can make a bit bigger enclosure and maybe squeeze 10 instead of 8 filaments on the top etc. You can also stack multiple printers together in single enclosure etc if you're making the printer farm. However, some custom solutions still needs to be applied, for example when making filament guides, but those are relatively simple to figure out when you got everything assembled and just needs an extra hole etc. :)

Do you ship to the US?


Yes I do! :)

If you are looking for a great price on Acrylic for making this enclosure, check out Queen City Polymers. Than can engrave what ever you want into the material if you want to make it look fancy. They also have a store on Ebay under Powers Plastics. Check out there website at http://qcpinc.net/.

Hi, can I power all the electronics, fan and sensors with my prusa mk3s 24v power supply? I really like your project but I would not want to add a dedicated power supply for just the enclosure. Many thanks, looking forward to your reply

Yes, DC-DC regulator is capable of up to 28 or even 30V I think, so no problem there, as it will provide nice 5V and everything stay the same. Please however know that direct 12V input/output lines are not regulated, meaning you will have to get 24V fan instead of 12V or get external DC-DC regulator (~2$) for it. :) Very simple solution in each case :)

This looks intriguing and very professional looking. As an architect I enjoy the construction of furniture and always want things to be just so. I really like the precision of this enclosure but not sure yet that I want to invest the money and time.

I have a makergear M2 that I just moved from my house to my office. The problem is that we have an open office and the noise from the printer sitting at my desk carries across the office and is somewhat annoying to others. So I have been looking for an enclosure to mainly cut down on the noise. Any ideas on how much this enclosure can mitigate the noise from my M2?


Sure, I've used printer in living room/office myself when I first designed and made this enclosure (now it's in workshop next to other machines). Enclosure makes printer much quieter, it will make much better printing quality, it allows filtration of air (no ABS/PLA smell) and it improves overall printing experience. I think it might be great option for you for office. You will also find Automatic BOM calculator in the files, where you can quickly and easy get BOM dimensions tailored for your printer.

Hey JKsniper,

I sent the $10.00 to your PayPal account.
When can I expect to get the following files? I have yet to receive that email.

BOM (Bill of material) in Excel
Dimensions of all items
Sample photos of all components
Sample links to buy and search components
3D model of the enclosure (can be measured for easier customizing)
100+ build photos
Some recommendations about electronics V1
BOM (bill of material) FOR ELECTRONICS V1! in Excel
Sample photos of electronic V1 components
Sample links to buy electronics V1 (worldwide)
Arduino code to drive electronics V1 (code as is! - but it's fully customizable!)
Wiring scheme for smart electronics V1
Simple wiring scheme for power supply.
50 additional build photos
V2 electronics BOM
V2 electronics manual and other info
Updates and news
CUSTOM BOM CALCULATOR (for easy enclosure dimensions changing)
To get all the files, please send 10EUR to: https://www.paypal.me/JKTechSI/10EUR
You will get files to your Paypal mail ASAP (usually few hours)

Hey! I've sent files minutes after I got mail from paypal. It was sent to mail that paypal provided. Please check and come back if you want me to send to other email address. Send to my PM please. :)

Hi JKSniper, first of all congratulations for the project, having said that I wanted to ask you why at the base of the enclosure you created 2 Intake, in most of the enclosures that I saw around you did not put any, it is for a matter of recirculation, pressure or thing? I wonder why I don't want the UFPs and VOCs to come out! Thanks in advance


There are actually 5 intake holes, which can be blocked if needed. Every ventilation system needs exhaust (in my case HEPA+CARBON filter) and INTAKE (in my case a bit of foam, to prevent sucking in the dust from workshop). INTAKE needs to be 2x larger than exhaust in surface area. Larger the intake, less the air disturbances and air speed. When you have exhaust, you need to have intake and air WON'T leak anywhere, because whole chamber is at slight underpressure. Only air leaving the enclosure will be through HEPA/CARBON filter. :) If you got a lot of leak holes in the enclosure and nothing sealed etc., you might get away without intake holes, but fan will probably be struggling.

Ok more or less I think I understood, just for confirmation, instead of using "vent flange and vent cover" you simply drilled holes at the base and put some foam to prevent sucking in the dust? I as an aspiration system I would like to use your own, simple and clean, having said that, given the size of the fan you adopted, how many Intake tips to make, because doing the necessary calculations, if the Intake must be 2x larger than exhaust then would you need 12 of Intake or mistake (I considered about 150cm2 for the wall / panel-mount HEPA + active carbon filter and 25cm2 for the Intake)?

1 x round 120mm exhaust = 5x 70mm round holes. intake surface = 2x exhaust surface. Not the surface of filters etc. Just the cutout. I learned that with impellers and it seems to be working here also okay.

Yes, first i had printer in living area and I used intakes without foam. I also liked to block middle intake hole, so there were 4 active. In the workshop I added some foam to those 4 active intakes. I run fan at 10-40% for all materials.

Best regards,

Ok thank you!!!

Hello !
I'd like to purchase/build/tinker your product but for 3 printers (I don't want this x3, I want to adapt this for 3 printers).
Is it possible ? I'm an engineer so I can propose to properly document the build so you can propose a flavor of your product for print farm !
Do not hesitate to answer here, by private message or to contact me directly via my website mail (osmoz3d.fr)
Thanks =)

Hey Bastien!

Sure it is possible! It's very simple actually! I have automatic BOM calculator for those who want different dimensions. In your case it would be best to extend Y axis by desired length. Then you can decide what type of door you would like to have (one big door opening up) or 3 separate doors or 2 split doors... and if that required extra 1-2 vertical profiles or not. It's very easily doable all together. If you need any more information, please contact me by private message.

Thanks JKSniper. I've contacted you by MP =)
I look forward to build this thing !!

Hi Jure,

Confused about what 40 Euros gets me?

I know it is all instructions and parts list. (been an engineer decades so can work out all sizes from your drawing dimension)

Electronics is my weak area, I read through this multiple times and it seems to suggest fully populated v2 PCB (ready to go when wires screwed in) and mentions touch screen (but that surely cannot be included in the price?).

would be good to see what physical parts come, and obviously the rest would be in the parts list to buy separately.


For 40 Euros you will get whole documentation for both MECHANICAL PART (printer enclosure BOM, photos, BOM calculator, modifiable STEP files, etc. etc.) and you will also get ELECTRONICS MAINBOARD fully populated and presoldered+preset SHIPPED with priority+tracked option. With electronics you will also get detailed instruction manual, FAQ and common mistakes, software, how to upload it, BOM for recommended and optional parts (everything together for electronics is available to order via single online shop with multiple shipping options). You will also get all custom support you need to put it together perfectly. There is A LOT of people who gone through the process of building both mechanics and electronics and recently there were no issues or nothing that is not described in FAQ/MANUAL, as I was adding there all typical answers, but still - if help is required, I'm available almost all the time through mail.

Mainboard consists of PCB, mosfets, resistors, headers, screw terminals, dc-dc voltage regulator preset.... all things are soldered and tested. All other components are not required 100% (for example you can run system without screen on fixed setting), but most common things would be a microcontroller (3eur) and screen (19eur). Other items are much cheaper and depends on how advanced you want your system to be. All recommended and optional items are in the BOM provided with links.

And for that fast response you get 40 Euros (just paid) :)

Thank you very much!

I've sent files to your mail and additional mail to check if your address is correct. I will ship it out to the UK in the morning (if I get address confirmation)! After shipping you'll receive additional mail with tracking number and password for some additional files. :)

I cut the connector of my Grand Flex PWM a few weeks ago, and I can't find the picture that I took then of the wires. Could someone take a look at his cables, to see which one goes in which slot? Thanks!

Thank you very much for this design.
Good work ! It is really nice
This project is at first sight exactly what I was looking for.
I just have to adapt your concept for dimensions for a printer tevo toronado

Thanks man! I'm glad you like it. Sure! It's super easy to modify dimensions for your printer. However, if it takes too long for you, you might consider buying plans for 10EUR which also includes automatic enclosure BOM calculator, which effectively allows you to input dimensions and get whole BOM calculated fast. Along with all source links to all the parts, dimensions for panels, build photos etc.

Wish you a nice day! Greetings from Slovenia!

The problem for me in Quebec (Canada) is not the adaptation of your concept but more to find the right profiles and hardware in the 3030 series. Most stores have no long dimension. (1000mm or 1500mm length) example: amazon.Ca
Thank you for your answer it is very appreciated.

which type of profiles we need to use "6 slot 20x20 Radius Sigma Profile" or 8 or 10 slot ?

I'm using 3030 "type 8" profiles. However, you can use anything you can get hands on for cheap. 2020 is strong enough for dimensions like this.

1000x750x750mm i think ill go but 2020 maybe weak this dminesions wlll be need calculation N/L presure , thank you.

Can you also change the temperature and humidity? or only to see the values?
Do you show in your advice, also how to set up the iphone app?

An excellent job, Jure. I have learned a lot with your project. Thanks !!!

When I build 1 on top of the other I do not have the access to the filament compartiment of the one below.
Do you have a solution for this?
I want to make 2 independent working units so I think I need 2x electronics.


Yeah, I've seen design just like this one and filament room was on top and one guide holes were through bottom to "higher printer" and the second guide holes was in the back and back in to lower printer room. Very simple and effective design, easy to do :)

Probably you want 2 electronics for independent settings for both printers. I've sent you PM for combined offer for 2 pcs.

Are you able to print nylon and pva without having to dry for 8 hours in an oven.
Is the enclosure closed enough to keep the filament dry?


Yes, filament room can be completely sealed, even filament guides (where filament goes through panel) has foam filter, which cleans filament and doesn't allow air to exchange. Filament room however has silica gel or dehumidifier installed, to get out moisture that comes in when swapping the filament etc. (opening the door).

Thanks for the quick reply.
I want to build 2 on top of each other, do I have to pay 2x the 40€?
Can you give an estimate of the total cost for 1 unit build as yours?

Hey! If you need 2 electronics shipped over for 2 enclosures, I will give you extra discounted price for combined shipping of 2x electronics mainboard and files.

But if you are building 2, 3 or 10 enclosures, you can only pay 40eur and you will receive all the files and ONE mainboard. So in your case, if it is enough for you to have one electronics, 40EUR is okay and you can make multiple enclosures with the files I will send you, but if you need 2 electronics or more, please contact me on PM and I will give you best price I can according to your location with combined shipping. :)

1 unit like mine (1 printer room + 1 filament room + 1 electronics) costed me around 220EUR in total by buying locally almost everything except electronics, which were bought internationally. By buying things from cheaper sources you can go lower than that, but it's more effort and searching skills etc.

I'm planning on building a pair of enclosures and these seem to be perfect for my needs. Is it 40 eur each, or might there be a small discount for combined shipping? (shipping to USA)

Definitely a discount for combined shipping! I will write you specifics and custom payment link in Thingiverse message! :)

Hey! I sent you PM just to check. I didn't get it yet or I already got it and sent files early today.

@JKSniper, First off amazing build! One thing I am curious about is if you have the Multi material unit on your Prusa printer? I am curious as to if the Pros MK3s will fit , according to specs in your BOM with the MMU (multi material add on ) installed.

keep up the awesome work!


Thanks! I personally don't have MMU installed as I have no real requirement for it BUT there are probably 30 or more people building this enclosure right now that have MMU. Since last update in feb. 2019, there is also "automatic BOM calculator), which offers you that you can resize enclosure in any dimension (for MMU you just add extra height to default value) and it will recalculate automatically BOM for your size. It's very simple to use and intended for cases just like yours or for those with different printers etc. Enclosure is however very nice to have with MMU, because of easy filament manipulation.

Best regards,

I'm planning to make this for my CR-10s I will probably order the full package from you just a few questions beforehand:
1) Is there any problem to print all the parts with PLA to begin with and maybe later on get is from aluminium?
2) If I can get tube from the enclosure directly outside there really is no need for the filters right?



  • Well you cannot exchange metal parts with PLA, as it's simply too weak and too expensive. Aluminium actually costs less than PLA, relative to weight. However, you can print all parts INSIDE enclosure with PLA. No problem with that :) Aluminium parts are however relatively easy to source and now there is also BOM calculator, which will allow you to make quick changes to design size to fit any 3D printer of your choice.

  • Exactly. If you have tube leading outside, than you can skip the filter BUT be sure to have FAN installed in that tube and also keep tube closed when not printing. You could also install servo or relay to open/close the tube when using enclosure. It would be quite easy mod with custom functions in mainboard.

Best regards,
Jure :)

Thanks for the answers, so I'll guess I'll go with aluminium, just gotta find out how to order the parts here and the hell its called in hebrew.

I didn't think about closing the tube, I'm guessing a flap, strong enough fan and the right angel can make my job easier.

I'll send you the money in the next few days.

I just sent a payment, let me know when you will ship. Thanks!

Thanks! You should received 2 emails. First with files and second to verify shipping address :)

Hey! Someone from Canton, GA 30114 just purchased full package, but his mail and web is not working anymore, so my mails were rejected. This is quite rare event where paypal provided mail is not working. If you're the guy, please contact me on private message here with correct mail :) Thanks!

Thank you for your answer, ah ben perfect and thankfully that the translators exist :-) I pay the 40 € on the link indicate on thingiverse?

Thank you

Yes, for full package you can use this link: https://www.paypal.me/JKTechSI/40EUR Files will be sent to your e-mail and mainboard to your address. You will also get tracking number. :) Thank you!

excuse me for my english but I use a translator to make me understand :-) hoping that it is quite comprehensible what I write.

Yes, no problem at all. A lot of people are using the translator and I think it's a really great tool!


I have a creatily cr10s pro do you think this is possible? and if I send you the 40 € is the plan will be reliable compared to my printer?
I live in France do you send to this country?

Thank you


  • Yes, enclosure will work great for CR10S PRO.
  • Yes, electronics and mechanics, both will work nicely for your printer.
  • I'm shipping from EU, so no problem about France. It will be there in few days. I already sent a lot of packages in France.

Thank you! If you have any other issue, you can always contact me for help.

Best regards,

I have prusa i3 mk3. i want to know how much this costs before i give you money for the files. i am on a strict budget

The most budget oriented builds were reported for 80-100$ with 3030 aluminium profiles, while full electronics-featured, wrapped in carbon fiber decal with aluminium handles, rounded profiles etc. will be around 200$ if you use cheapest online sources. Local can be faster, but usually more expensive if you're not from EU. :) However, electronics can be used in cheaper (IKEA or similar) enclosure and will make it smart and good-lookin.

thank you. i will think about it. is there a 2020 version because i have tons of 2020 and no 3030

You can build it with 2020! There were builds of identical enclosure, just with black 2020 extrusions. You have to modify BOM a bit, because 2020 can accept smaller plates (not 8mm -> 6mm) etc.

FEB 2019 UPDATE: CUSTOM BOM CALCULATOR - It allows easy transformation of original size to any other size with simple dimension input. It outputs enclosures overall size, rooms internal sizes, extrusions types, qty and lengths and individual panel dimensions. All automated for simple custom resizing :)

Hi again!
1, How long are your aluminum rods at the filament chamber?
2, You had no issues with the tube holders? Mines were so tight, that I couldn't even punch the alu rod through them without getting them damaged :(


  1. That depends how wide you build enclosure and how much rolls you have in width. I have 112-115mm (anything in that region will fit nicely), but as I said, it depends on enclosure width and filament count. If you have more narrower rolls, you can have shorter tubes.
  2. No, they are exactly correct for 12mm tubes. Do you maybe have 1/2" tubes (12.7mm)? as that may be a bit bigger. You can increase file tube holders a bit to accomodate larger tubes or print with 5-6% larger tube holders (for 12.7mm hole).

1, Thanks for the sizes!
2, I copied your tube holders with a bit bigger ID (12mm exactly) and it made a snug fit on the tube after all.

Other question: Did you use those fat screws that came with the scythe fan to secure it into its place or something else?

I'm sorry, but I can't remember exactly! It was almost 2 years ago and it seems that is too long for me to hold that information :S Try to check if they fit the holes and if not, than I probably used M3 screws like for everything else.... :/

How much is the whole package?
Ship you to Germany?

Hey! Whole package is 40EUR which also includes priority+tracked shipping (a list of included items is in the description). It takes 1-3 days to get to Germany. Files are sent immediately, and shipping is the same day when the post is open. :) Paypal link is: https://www.paypal.me/JKTechSI/40EUR

Comments deleted.

Sent payment, looking forward to the plans

Forgot to answer that one, plans were sent the same day! :)


  • Fire detection algorithms
  • Dynamic LED options
  • Door sense function
  • Improved FAN precision RPM reading
  • Brightness of LED and LCD selectable
  • Other optimization and bugfixes

Cool Enclosure! How much will it cost to build? All materials and so on?
Pity that this is not for Anycubic Chiron.


It depends where you live and if you want all the features or just basic ones. From 100$ up to 250$ if you shop wisely. If you go with local sometimes it can be cheap, sometimes it can be expensive (depends on your location), while ebay / aliexpress can be really cheap, it's just a bit more waiting time.

This enclosure will fit ANY 3D printer. Just measure your printer, compare size with Prusa MK2/MK3 and make adjustments to lengths of the extrusions that you are buying. In BOM (and also modifiable 3D model) you will find lengths to perfectly fit Prusa, while it can be scaled in X, Y or Z without any issues just by adding for example +100mm to some parts on BOM. :)

This is great! Thanks! I'm going to place an order for the parts with you in the next day or two.
Please could you let me know, when building this for the Prusa i3 Mk3 (as you have pictured), what are the overall external dimensions for the table-top one (The one that just has the section for the printer and the filament above it)?


Sure! For Prusa MK2/MK3 the dimensions can be the same as my original enclosure which sits nicely on normal desk. You can see external dimensions on the picture of this thing. Z is 830mm, X and Y are 550x550mm. You can however scale this in any direction if necessary. Note that this dimension is minimal possible for nice operation of MK2/MK3.

Fantastic, thanks. I've just placed an order. Thanks for your help.

Thank you! I got it and I sent the files and address verification mail :)

Comments deleted.


I have a few questions.

  • do you use a separate power supply for the elctronics with searate on/off switch or the same power supplo as the printer? Because with step-down you could also take the current from original power supply.

  • do you use for fan control arduino?

  • normally for PLA you have a temp. system with temp. regulation. But for ABS normally you donÄt need a regulation because the temp. has to be contant. But at the other site to much temperature can destroy the elctrical components. How did you solf this?

I also want to build it withj aluminium profiles and acryl or plexi glass.


  • Yes, I use seperate power supply (12V 5A) for enclosure (FAN, LEDs, electronics, sensors...), BUT the enclosure power is not too demanding, so maybe 12V from printer COULD be used - but only with verification about the consumption and printer power supply rating. I don't have extra switch for enclosure only though, everything is powered through one manual and one wi-fi switch.
  • Arduino is controller that is used both in Electronics V1 and V2 for controlling FAN, LEDs and other equipment.
    Check: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862044
  • The only main heat source inside the enclosure is heatbed from printer. When printing PLA, I set it usually to 30 or 40°C and with use of enclosure FAN of 20-30% it keeps enclosure at 25-28°C which works beautifully with PLA. For ABS however I use heatbed temperatures of 80-100°C, and with FAN turned to only 5%, which makes temperature in enclosure of around 35°C, which again makes a really nice environment for perfect ABS printing.

Hope I helped you out :)

Best regards,

NEW V2 Electronics for Smart 3D Printer Enclosure - TOUCH

thanks for your answer.

  1. So it would be the best to put the original supply out of the box because heat and also a separate one with 12V and 5A? Normally with a step-down converter it would be also possible to connect directly to the 24V PSU and also to the 12V PSU.

But I think to took the 12V PSU also because its easier to connect the fans directly to the PSU isn't it?
You also write itÄs better to need a fuse. Is it really necessary?

  1. A cool, you developed your one pcb design. Nice.

But to modifie the firmware is not necessary? because I will use my own prusa build with completly different firmware.

Do you think I will be able to rebuild it with your 10-EUR-instruction? I am good in soldering :D


  1. No, operating at 30-35° on average is not that hot that would make any significant difference or justify putting it outside. You could also place air intake close to it and it will pull air through it, but I have not bad experience after 2000h+ of printing ABS inside enclosure. Sure, you can also use 24V as input without need of extra 12V PSU. Just check if power supply will handle additional fan+LED power and be sure to use 24V fan in case you go with 24V PSU.
  2. Fuse is always good to use :) You never know if some mechanical damage rub through wires and make a short or something.
  3. Enclosure is completely separated from printer, meaning the extra PCB is for easier assembly of enclosure electronics and features. It's still very hard to make all those connections as DIY board, because there is a lot of wires and everything, but you can try. Or you can contact me on private msg and maybe we can find some custom solution for you, like bare PCB or something else. :)

Good luck :)

I bought a better power supply with 320W. the plan is to use a step down converter instead of buying 24V fan and LED.

Which fuse did you buy?

Yes, I would also use it completly separate from the printer. ItÄs not good to make it more complicated then necessary :)

I want the enclosure because the air filter and because I want to print ABS. But ABS needs constant temperature and for this the enclosure is ok. But I want to print PLA for example it's not recommended to have the same temperature inside. So itÄs difficult to deside what I want. If it is to cold it's good for electronic but bad for ABS. Is temp. to high, itÄs bad for plexiglass, for electronic and for printed parts from the printer itself.

I print all PETG, PLA, ABS, TPU... all inside enclosure, just select different parameters for different materials (like usual!). All prints Extremely well and with no material there is an issue. Note that ABS doesn't require A LOT of temperature, just a rapid cooling and air-mixing is a problem. 35°C is great for ABS and it's no way too hot for electronics.

Power supply already have FUSE inside. I suggest enclosure power inlet with FUSE which you can find in the BOM and the FUSE rating should be at least 3A if you have 120V main or at least 2A for 230V.

sounds god. So would you recommend your pcb for 40 EUR with all necessary files like the BOM ?

Normally it would be enough to buy a PSU, a fuse, a fan-regulator (maybe also with temp. regulator), a fan and a filter Isn't it? But your solution is great :)

Comments deleted.

I have no plans to print ABS where you typically need the higher air temperatures in an enclosure, but I'd like to enclose my i3 Mk3 printer (dust, noise, etc) and the filament storage is awesome especially as I am planning on the MMU; but slightly worried about operating temp when closed up.

My perspective for asking it for keeping lower temps on the stepper motors, power supply, extruder temp delta, etc.

How do you find the temperature regulation in the enclosure when printing regular 'cooler' filaments like PLA or PET?

Are you able to keep it reasonably near ambient, eg only +5-10 C above ~21C?

I know I can just add more fans if needed to meet my targets, but was curious what your experience is "out of the box" on your base design.



Yeah sure! There is no problem with system overheating as I reach 35-40°C for ABS and around 30 for PLA and slightly higher for PETG. There is absolutely no problem with electronics after 2000h of printing inside the enclosure (it will be 2 years in february). Printer still going strong, nothing wore faster and I had ZERO problems. I just change nozzle time to time, because I use standard brass and that's it. For printing larger PETG prints enclosure is already a must, along with many many other benefits (noise, dust, looks, consistency, protection to printer..).

Thanks so much for the quick reply and the detailed info, it is greatly appreciated.

Hi Jure! Two questions about the filament storage part:
1, Should I just increase the spool holder scale up the spool holder if I want it to accept 2kg spools too (internal storage height increased already)? Or should I look for other design/design my own, if it's not doable?
2, Those filament guides (middle holder, side guides) are still doing okay? I mean, are they not rubbing/pulling on the filament too much?
Thank you and Happy New Year :)


  1. Sure, now the original dimension will fit all (that I have tested) 1kg filaments. If you need larger diameter (some 2kg spools are only wider, not larger in diameter), you will need a slightly taller filament room, which is very simple to add just by extending vertical beams for 50 or 100mm or some custom dimension. You also need to apply that new dimension for all 4 panels that are around filament room.

  2. Yes, filament guides are still doing their job and after 2000h+ of printing with ABS, PETG, PLA, TPU, NYLON... everything is working OK. Side spools have a bit more friction, but it seems that is not the problem in my case. I also saw guys run PTFE guides from side spools to the middle or having direct filament "fittings" through the panel directly below the spool and even for side spools it seem to work without issues and have even less friction.

No problem and Happy New Year to you too! :) :)

Thanks for comfirming :) Also, I just found two Prusa LCD support files in the enclosure folder. What are those for? And how long/what size woodscrews were you using for the spool holders?


Yeah, those would be replacement LCD holders in case you have very stiff wires in the back of the heatbed and very tight space. This mounts allows LCD to be installed a bit closer to printer, making more room inside enclosure itself.

I used just the first screws I get hands on. I believe they are around 10-15mm long and 1.5-2mm wide.

Jk. I just sent 40 euros few hours ago.

Thank you so much! :) Files were sent to your mail and package will be on its way tomorrow :)

Hey JK Sniper. I sent you the 40 Euros. I am in the US, and am looking forward to building this!!

Hey! Files were sent in the morning and package will be on route still today. I've sent mail to check the address, if I don't get reply until 16h my time, I'll ship to paypal provided address :) Thanks!

I purchased this second hand from someone local to me (just the parts, unassembled, but mostly complete). I will purchase the board when it comes to building a second enclosure for my other machine. I did donate the 10 Euro for the plans, figured it was the right thing to do.

Quick question, would you mind pointing me in the direction of the camera mount if you don't mind sharing? I happen to have the same camera, even though I plan on upgrading both in the near future. Figured, "Why re-invent the wheel" Thanks again.


Thank you very much! Well when I was searching for camera mount option I've figured out I need camera to be vertical. I was searching for thingiverse camera holders but was too big selection to go through, than I realized I don't need the camera mount at all. I've drilled a small hole through the base of the camera (camera already has some kind of holder) and I've screwed it with 1 T-nut to front left profile directly with 1 screw. It's working since and I can adjust the tilt and roll if I need to, as camera mount already has this feature inbuild.

Will you ship to the US and if so is it more than 40eur

Hey! I will ship to US with tracked and priority option. For 40EUR I will ship anywhere, no problem, but it's entirely non-profit due to the high shipping costs, so sometimes I get 5 or 10EUR extra, but it's not required in any way. :)

Hi jksniper
I sent you 40€
Now I am waiting for material and BOM in France

Thank you! It will be shipped tomorrow and you will receive tracking :)

I just paid =) ... I am waiting for the files ... thanks

Files were sent! :)

Waiting for files ;)
Thank you for sharing this great project.

Hey! :) Files were sent to your e-mail provided by Paypal :) Thanks a ton for your support! In case you need anything, just contact me on my mail :)

Hi, JKSniper.
Payment sent!
I sent you 10EUR
I want you to give me the files and information.

Sure, files were sent to your provided e-mail. Please reach me on my e-mail if you need any assistance. :)

Thank you.
I wasn't really interested in your electronic technology or modeling anything else.
What I want to do is combine 2020 profile.
But your method was not available in my country.
but thank you for the good information.
I'll find another way.

For combining 2020 profiles.
3 profiles together: 3way joiner (similar to my solution, just a bit different. Check: http://3dprintbd.com/2020-alu-profile-3-way-inside-90-degree-joiner.html
2 profiles together 90°: L-bracket or hidden joiner. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SOoAAOSwn35au8sR/s-l1600.jpg
2 profile together 0° : Inline joiner.

Check this: http://www.minitecframing.com/Products/Profile_Fasteners/T-Slotted_Profile_Fasteners.html

I am already using this. But I was looking for something else.

I wanted to say this but I couldn't say it for you. Because of your copyright
Is electromagnetic plate and modeling your copyright? If I can ask you a question without it, I will ask you one that is included in the folder.

This link can't be opened. I don't know why.

Hi, JKSniper.

Is there a modelling of the area where the top three corners combine?

If you have, please give me a bus address. Thank you.

Here you go...
I converted it from my Sketchup file into an STL. If you like I can give you the original Sketchup file too.

Oh, thank you so much.

Thank you very much for giving me the STL file.

I was looking for it. Because you gave it to me, my problem was solved.

The sketch-up file's fine. Thank you.

I can't open it, because I use the ugs and the Fusion 360,

The program cannot open the skp file.

That's a bit disappointing.

You'll be blessed. You solved my problem.

Thank you very much.

No problem at all. I originally downloaded it in a step file then converted it to STL and imported it into Sketchup.

This will help you even more: (You can download CAD files for many items that you will need including aluminum extrusions.)

Click this link then register if you do not already have an account with Misumi: https://us.misumi-ec.com/contents/regist/

Once you are registered click the link below and it will take you directly to the part you need and then you can download the CAD file in any format you like. (Look for CAD Download on the right hand side of the product page)


Hi Mochanic.
I have a favor for you.
Because the STL file you gave me is attached to one.
It is originally two but has one.
I'm sorry, but I want you to send me a sketchup file.
I mean, look at the picture below.
It has to be two, but it's united.

Comments deleted.

Thank you, but for the last time, I have a favor to ask you,
That's my sketchy version of 2016.
Your version is 2018 so I can't open it.
I'd appreciate it if you put it in a low version.
You gave me many things
I have nothing for you. I am sorry for this.
I failed to join Misumi.
Because it is difficult.
I'll study.

2016 Sketchup... Corner Bracket Assembly

You really need to put some effort into this yourself. I gave you the direct link to sign up for a free account on Misumi, all you do is click the link and fill in your details. It cannot get easier than that. You will greatly benefit from the Misumi site even if you do not by anything from them. They had CAD files of just about anything they sell.

Mochanic I am very grateful to you.

You gave me many things.
I won't forget your advice.
I will get a lot of information from the site.
I thank my foreign friend.

If you come to Korea, I hope you find me.
I'll do anything for you.

No problem buddy. Did it work for you this time?

Okay Buddy
I saw modeling. And with that,
I made more advanced modeling.
This was a reference for my modeling.
The original one was complicated and made it simple.

I don't understand... You are not printing it are you? If all you are doing is modeling that bracket should be fine for you. There are many other types of brackets for corners too. Also it looks like you are using 20mm extrusions this corner bracket is for 30mm, but they have them for 20mm too.
Post a picture of what you are doing and maybe I can help.

I improved modeling more conveniently.Because to make me feel comfortable

The problem has been settled.

There are no more problems.

But there's a problem merging the profile.

I am looking for another way in our country.

There may be a mistake between you and me because of the translator.

Comments deleted.

Yes, there is a aluminium 3 way bracket with rounded cap and 3x M8 screws inside. This is not printed, this part is bought with extrusions. In extra BOM file you find all of those pieces with links to various suppliers and required number etc.

Comments deleted.

Okay, paid for the full monty! Hopefully shipping to the US will not be an issue. Great work!

40 euro sent for the whole .... shebang

Thanks a ton! :) Files were sent already, shipping with tracking will be tomorrow! :)

Payment sent. Thanks for you hard work. Best enclosure I have seen!!!!


Files were sent right now, sorry for a bit of delay, I was working in workshop and didn't check computer before hitting the bed. :)

I purchased the plans for the enclosure, but I have a few questions as there are several gaps in the build vs. plans.

  1. What is the gasket you use for the doors? There is nothing in the mechanical BOM for it
  2. What is the purpose of the side guide?
  3. For the top joint (where the top of the filament cover meets the legs aka 16th slide from thingiverse post), does the aluminum extrusion need to have the holes tapped on the ends?
  4. Can you provide link for dehumifier?


Hey! Here to answer your questions :)

  1. It's self sticking (with adhesive tape) rubber seal for doors/windows, bought in ordinary hardware store for ~2$.
  2. Side guide are used to guide filament into the center of the filament room, before going down to printer area. It may not be needed and filament can be guided directly down, but in case you want to have all 8 filaments in the middle of the printer room, you can use side guides to help guide filament to the center from most distant spools.
  3. Some have to and some don't. Extrusions that I used have hole dimension so you can hard-screw the screw inside and it will "tap" itself. Some has hole too tight for that and you need to hand-tap or machine tap it. I think it's M8, but it may vary if you got some different profiles.

:) Hope I answered all your questions. You can also contact me directly via mail, as I can answer there more frequently.

Thanks! Files already sent and mainboard will be posted as soon post opens. You will receive tracking via mail :)

Thanks so much! Files were sent aswell :)

Comments deleted.

FIles were sent right now, while the board will be shipped today :)

Does this have enough room for MMU 2?

In original size it's designed for MK2/MK3 to fit directly. But since this is aluminium profile build, you can simply add +10 or +15cm to Z axis and since that add costs next to nothing, you can fit anything inside without issues :).

Do you have any issues with vibration (ringing) with this setup? My current printer sits on a concrete paver to help with that. I am trying to determine if that is necessary here. Also, is the filament area at the top airtight? Thanks for your help!

Nope, those are 3030 aluminium extrusions, it is really industrial grade enclosure that doesn't rock or vibrate. Printer "floor" is made with 8mm thick hardwood and provides good and stable support. However, if you need for any reason put paver inside... enclosure is more than enough sturdy to accomodate that. You can also make custom supports for printer Z axis to the enclosure, as enclosure is probably much more stable than printer and can provide solution to ringing. Yeah, filament area is "almost" airtight, with only a small gap where the hinges are and since there are foam filament cleaners inside filament guides, those prevent air-exchange. However, you can also add some masking tape around the filament door if you don't trust sealing rubbers and want 100% airtightness.

Sent payment, excited to put this unit together. Looks great!

Thanks! :) Sent files already :)

Comments deleted.

Very nice work ! Do you sill sell those files & BOM for 10 Eur ?
Thanks !

To get all the files, please send 10EUR to: https://www.paypal.me/JKTechSI/10EUR
You will get files to your Paypal mail ASAP (usually few hours) :)

Ok i dont know what happen maybe something to do with my paypal ill resend it and u said i could 3d print the rods is it one rod or pieces of rods just curious on length

Comments deleted.

Hey JKSniper did u find it if not dont worry about it

Hey! I didn't receive your message on thingiverse regarding Paypal transaction ID. I cannot any donation or order under "Angusbeefman" nor any arrive on that day or day before/after I'm afraid.

Hey Jk sniper did u get my donation i sent and havent got a response please let me know thanks

Hey! I've sent all the mails out for all the donors, but sometimes it happens that paypal provided mail address is outdated and non functional. In case you haven't received files, please answer to my private massage that I've sent you through Thingiverse :) Thanks!

Hello, I sent 10€ today. I'm so excited to read the files this evening! That's really a good job. Thank you in advance.

Thank you! :) I've sent files to paypal provided mail :) If you haven't received them, please contact me via thingiverse.

That was less than 1 hour to receive your answer. Thanks a lot. It's now my turn to work.

I sent payment 4 days ago via paypal to the account you provided, have not received the instructions via email or tracking number yet.

I'll contact you on PM. I may have missed it, but I've never missed it before. We'll solve it out for sure!

It appears that it might be practically possible to have the Einsy/PSU/LCD all mounted beneath the printer, outside the hot chamber. It also appears that this will accommodate the 'bear' side-grade. If so, I'm getting on this bus! If not, the thing is still a beauty. Well done.

Hey! It's no problem and not a new thing to locate electronics of all types outside of printer area. Most of people are mounting it below the printer plate, making it hidden and in cool air. However, there is endless debate if that is necessary. I'm getting perfect printing result with 35°C in printer area and with ventilation intake holes below electronic parts I'm printing for 2500h+ now within this enclosure and there was ZERO failure of any mechanical or electrical part. :)

Excellent, its good to have the option anyways. Cheers!

Also, if I am interested in installing the MMU on a Prusa I3 MK2S, does the bill of materials have an option with appropriate sizes to accommodate this?

Hey! Not exactly! Since there are different MMU sizes, different solutions for filament inlets, etc. etc. I keep dimensions for normal MK2/MK2S/MK3 and than you can go from there. Most people with MMU extends Z axis for +20cm which makes more than enough space for everything :). That actually means that you order +20cm longer vertical extrusions and 20cm longer panels that goes around the printer room. You can ofcourse modify it further if you need anything else, to accomodate it for some other printer, if you want to fit 2 printers inside, etc. etc. :)

40 Euros sent! Will I get the tracking number via email?

Other posters have been paying $10 USD via PayPal, does that still work for you? How long after paying to get the plans?

Sure, please contact me on PM and I'll give you all the details. Since most of guys decided also for mainboard later, which really simplified all electronic connections and mounting etc. - I've decided to make combined offer that works for most. You'll get plans basically right after if I'm behind the computer, max 10 hours if I'm away and/or asleep :)

Also, Im a bit confused about if the instructions clearly separate the v1 vs v2 electronics as I don't want to order materials for v1 by accident?

Sure. They are well separated in the seperate folders and all links from Electronics V2 are in single BOM, along with also all optional items that you might like to have.

I live in the USA and would love to be able to just order all the materials and start building. Do you have all the materials sourced with links, so that someone in USA can easily order them if they buy your plan?

Yeah! Materials list got links, except for the wood and acrylics, which shouldn't be a problem to find locally in a hardware store etc. Nobody reported lately any major issues with getting the parts, most of builders are from USA.

Have you performed any test to verify how well the filtration system works? (i.e. particulate detector)


No scientific tests have been made there. Clearly it makes under pressure inside the enclosure, meaning that particles won't go out from intake holes or some other holes in enclosure, but through the filter. On the other side of the filter there is no smell and no dust, while I can clearly see both filters quite dirty after all that time of usage. (I replace carbon filter every 1-2 months, and HEPA every 6 months or so). Maybe that comment would be better inside a HEPA+Carbon filter Thing.

Donation sent... keep up the great work :)

Thanks a ton for your support!

Donation sent today.

I am primarily interested in an enclosure that filters and entraps nanoparticles and fumes.
Does this build encorporate seals on the door to prevent leaking of air?

Hello! Yeah, door got seals all around, but they are not 100% necessary, as HEPA+Carbon filter is making underpressure inside enclosure, so external air get sucked inside enclosure, not vice versa.

Hey just sent you a donation for the files. Thanks for the putting in the hard work!


Thank you so much for your support Files were sent right now! :)

Thanks for your support! Files are also on your way! :)

Sending donation now!

Sent. Look forward to building this!

Thanks! Files are also sent! :) thanks!

Donation sent!! Tanks or your job

Donation sent. I love what I see. I am excited to start building.

Thanks so much for the support. I'm sending additional files right now.

Donation sent :) Thanks for that awesome project!

Thanks so much! You already got the files :)

Sent payment, thanks..

Thanks for your support for upcoming projects! I already sent you files! :)

Looks awesome! Id love to build one for my Wanhao i3. About how much did it cost to build this? And how much of that would you say was all the electronics? I might be doing it in stages and would like to see if it's feasible to build just the enclosure for now.

Hey! As it's already been said a few times, it greatly depends on your material source. If you buy local, it may be much more expensive than ebay/aliexpress. Also if u live in US, metric profiles are usually more expensive than imperial ones, so some of the guys went with 1" version instead of 30mm extrusions (to buy local - cheap). So I've personally spent around 200-250eur for everything, RPI for octoprint and Logitech IP camera included, along with everything else. But I've shopped things locally. Basic electronics is around 30-70e, depends on how "fancy" you want to get.

It's a ballpark number, that's all I'm really looking for.

Donation sent! Looking forward to building my own

This looks great! can't wait to get started. Donation sent.

Thanks! Files were sent your way right now!


Just sent the payment via Paypal. I have the MK2s and an Anet A8. Is there a way to stack 2 enclosures on top of each other to minimize the footprint they would take up? Thanks!

Thanks so much for your support. I've sent you additional files. Yeah sure! You can make it taller overall, with perhaps 2 printer rooms and only 1 filament room on the top, running filaments behind the enclosure and to both of the printers... Or you can stack 2x printer rooms + 2x filament rooms on top of each other. It can be done with single longer vertical profiles. (or you can connect shorter profiles together inline). There are basically ton of options with extrusions. :)

Thanks for the quick reply! Is the V2 electronics package compatible with US amperage and voltage (I'm not a skilled or knowledgable person when it come to electronics) Just want to make sure that if I order one I'll be able to use it. :)

Hey! Sure! In BOM you can see that recommended 60W 12V power supply has "Input Voltage:AC85-265V" and "Frequency:50/60Hz", which means it works for all of the world. All other electronics are on 12 and 5V DC, which are thankfully the same anywhere in the world :)

Comments deleted.

Hi there,

is there any other way to pay you? because it seems i cannot use my paypal account...



I've sent you a PM

hello JKSniper, your project is very good !!, before making the deposit I only have one question, I would like to know if I have to work hard to adapt this enclosure to an AM8 printer and an ENDER 3 printer.

Congratulations for your work!
Greetings from Argentina.


Actually not. Enclosure as it is, it's designed to fit MK2/MK3 printer, but it can be enlarged in any direction to accomodate larger or smaller printer. That means if prusa is for example 500mm wide and you printer is 600mm wide, you can add 100mm to those extrusions that goes from left to right and also add 100mm to the front and back panels. It's very simple to make the new dimensions and the build is basically the same, just the elements are larger/smaller.

Have a nice day and greetings from Slovenia!=)

just sent payment..thanks for sharing.

Thank you so much for supporting my projects! I've already sent all additional files. :)

Just sent payment over! Can't wait to start mine

Money sent via PayPal! Looking forward to building this enclosure for my MK3!

Thanks so much! I will PM you for mail because I think I didn't get it this time somehow.

Neh, I got your mail... I'm missing a mail from a guy "Ninjanerd". Hopefully he contact me on PM with his mail :)

Hi Jure et al. I've had the plans and V2 mainboard for a while now and have just finally got around to starting to get everything together and mocking the design up in CAD before ordering everything. I have a few questions if anyone can help. I'm building the enclosure for an Anycubic i3 Mega which currently has a bowden extruder feeding from the right hand side from beneath. Has anyone had any experience using such a bowden set-up with this enclosure? I've attached a pic of the extruder setup. Also, how many intake vents have people found works best in the main area? I've found photos that have one and some that have five. If anyone has any advice I'd be really grateful. Thanks again for the stellar effort you've put in Jure.

Regards, Oliver

Hey Oliver!

  • You can make printer area in the top and filament area in the bottom if you find that more suitable for your printer. You can also wire bowden outside of enclosure and back in in the top, if that would make filament easier to guide.
  • Area of intake vents should be around 2x the area of output fan. I've put 5x 60-70mm holes on the bottom which are somewhere in that region. It's nice idea to make holes in the corners, to prevent airflow through bed, to avoid warping. Also you can place holes below vital electronics to ventilate it. :)

How funny, I've had the kit for months and am just NOW starting my build. I too am using bowden setup.

[edit] Jure help me locate the manual which I had all along lol

what is the name and size of this printer? it's pretty

Printer inside the enclosure is Prusa MK2 - but the point is in the enclosure, which is universal and can be build to fit any 3D Printer :)

Money sent via Paypal. Looking forward to building this thing!

Files sent! :) Thanks a ton for your support!

Looks great, hopefully instructions make sense to a noob like me! $10 sent

Thanks! Sure, there is a ton of information about everything being sent your way right now :)

Ibam very interested in building this enclose for my mk3 and would happily donate some money for the details. I have limited height where I keep my printer. Would it be possible to tell me the overall height of the design. Thanks.

Hey! The good thing about this design is that it's fully customizable. While overall height of my enclosure is 832mm (as you can see on the picture with dimensions), you can make printer room or filament room (filament room is really huge right now and fits even the biggest spools) shorter. You can also remove small legs in the bottom, to shave height. :) It's so simple -> You just subtract the dimension from my dimension on the vertical profiles and it will be shorter. If filament/printer room gets smaller, you need to make panels smaller aswell. :)

Perfect. I have enough height clearance. Donation sent.

Thanks a ton! I've sent the files! :)

Just sent funds as well. Great work on this - looking forward to your email

Thanks a ton for supporting my projects. I've sent extra files right now.

Just sent funds, thanks for the plans and the work, this is an awesome enclosure.

Thanks! I've sent extra files your way :)

Comments deleted.

Hey there,

just send you 10$ to your Paypal Account. Thanks for the plans. :D



Thanks! Going your way right now!

I transferred usd 20,- to your Paypal account.
Looking forward to your mail.
best reg

Thank you very much! Files are on your way! :)

Hey, very nice enclosure build, just send you a paypal payment! Cheers, Joachim

Thanks a ton! :) I'll send you files right now :)

Hey! I just tipped you $13 via Paypal. Could you send me files? Thanks!

Thanks so much! Sure! :)

Trying to price this up to build an enclosure for my CR-10 4S (400mmx400mm). Cabinet will be approx 2mtres high and a metre wide & deep. Would 3030 still be strong enough? Should I go for 4040 or 4545? Also-does anyone know a good cheap supplier to UK as cheapest I found for 3030 is £10 per metre, so cabinet would cost over £180 just for the extrusion..then all the corners and panels, screws etc...

hey! 3030 would be 1000% strong enough! It's overkill for my size and it would be totally fine for 2m+. Only problem I see is that you need to find it local, because I think nobody will be really happy to ship 2m piece around the world...

Cheers mate, I would order it in 1 metre lengths..and just connect them together anyway..so just trying to find a cheap supplier . The curved right angle profile seems to be much harder to find.

Oh that's the option aswell, sure. I'd try searching on Aliexpress, make all calculations about the lengths and give them all mechanical parts you need except acrylics and wood. They are usually able to provide all parts in one place (probably they purchase it over the street from another automation company) and they ship everything together. The other option is german online shops, but they have a bit higher prices still.

FYI (in case it is useful) I just posted all my additional/reworked parts in two Thingiverse listings:

Dual Meanwell PSU enclosure
Reworked / Enhanced components for JKSniper's universal 3D printer Cabinet

Wow! That is superb! I'll share add it to updates with link! That's very useful and creative!

This looks great! I have 2 questions:
1) Is they any plan in the works to enable this to work with the prusa MK3 MMU 2.0 upgrade?
2) Is this assembly (or at least a parts kit) available for purchase? This is the best enclosure I've seen, but don't have time to source it all. I could build a kit.

Thanks for your questions and sorry for a bit late reply.
-> Well yeah, since this enclosure if fully customizable, you can simply add +10 or +20cm in height of printer room to allow more clearance for MMU 2.0. and that's it. That just means you need to buy a bit longer vertical extrusions and a bit taller side panels. Everything else stay the same. It can be made bigger/smaller in any dimension.
-> I'm begging and working and providing all informations for Portuguese company that will - I HOPE - provide parts kit (aluminium mechanical parts) internationally. Can't be sure when, but I'm very positive they will do it soon. It will still be DIY kit, not assembled, but if you can source all pre-machined aluminium framing, it's only panels and electronics for DIY, which can be done in a day if you got everything on the site.

Thanks, Jure! Just sent off $10 via Paypal.

Thank you so much! Files were already sent your way! :)

Hi- is there anywhere online I can buy this already built?

Just sent some funds your way. This is an amazing design and can't wait to put it together.

Thanks! Files are being sent your way right now! Sorry for late reply! Thanks for all the support!

Going through the BOM that you sent Saturday (thanks, lots of detail!) and I'm looking to keep it simple with no extra machining etc. If I just ordered everything tapped, would I then be able to use just no drill connectors like http://www.valuframe.co.uk/Series-6-Connectors.html and the corner ones?

I can't say for sure about this system because I didn't use it myself, but there is even cheaper option - just L connector.
Something like that or similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-T-Slot-L-Shape-Type-90-Degree-3030-Aluminum-Profile-Accessories-Inside-Corner-Bracket-Connector/32707452166.html

It doesn't require any machining, except some bigger cutouts in acrylic and wood sheets.

Great, thanks! I'll probably start assembling an order this weekend, unless the Kit mentioned below is due any time soon?
Looking forward to receiving the electronics you just sent out!

Looks like an awesome piece of kit, I can't wait to give this a go, firstly, I must order some parts, Thanks for sharing, Pal.

Thank you Jure, got your emails and files and looking forward to receiving the kit!

Hey Jure, I also send you a few bucks via PayPal. A soon as I saw that thing I wanted to have it :-)
Thanks for sharing it with us. I will probably come back to get the electronic board from you.

I didn't find the parts list, count and length info on the main page. Can anyone send me that via email? Thanks kindly! mailto:ThePrusaGuy@hotmail.com

Have you read whole Thing description?

Yes, I must have missed the download links though, because I still didn't see them sorry. Hoping someone can mail them... otherwise, if I need to get it together myself then I guess I can come back here and share it once I figure it out... any help is appreciated! ThePrusaGuy@hotmail.com - thanks!

Are you asking to steal it? The creator VERY CLEARLY asks for a small donation for the BOM and other data beyond the 3D files.

"...Because some of my previous designs got stolen and commercialised and this project took a tons of time I've decided to share only 3D designed parts and some enclosure dimensions. This should be sufficient to build enclosure on your own with little calculations and effort.
If you need more information or you don't have time to make measurements yourself, for everyone that will donate 10$ or more on my paypal (https://www.paypal.me/JureKorber/) I will provide on your mail:..."

eMoon … Oh no, I would hate to give that impression! I am so sorry! I thought JKSniper made this and I was talking to him? But the description was asking for donations, and not payments. Everything else on thingiverse is free, and I'm not a manufacturer to commercialize it. Sorry, I just got my printer and am new to all of this - I thought that was requiring a donation for a commercial license. I misread it sorry.

I just wanted to see what the parts were before I go too far down the road. Not to worry though, I've been able to figure a lot out just looking at the pictures and put in a lot of time learning about "3030" and how to connect it. That was a lot to learn, but the kind people at 8020.net were SUPER helpful in explaining most of it once they saw the pictures. They knew exactly what I was after :)

Really sorry for the misunderstanding, and thanks for asking about my intentions and not making assumptions! Soon I will have enough to post a link for other people like me to get a good idea what kind of parts are needed so nobody has to make the same mistake as me... I am really happy that I will have a chance to give back everyone else!

JKSniper ... great project. Hopefully soon I will be making one too! Thanks for sharing it. ;)

Thanks A ton! Files are already sent your way and you'll also get more electronics mainboard info on your mail very soon.

Hi Jure, I've just sent payment for the plans. Your enclosure looks fantastic and I'm looking forward to modifying and building my own for my Anycubic i3 Mega.

Regards, Oliver

Thanks for supporting my future projects! Files were sent to your mail right now :)

I sent payment for the plans. Thank you for offering this! I looked through the comments but couldn't find anybody mentioning it but what is the ball park price just on the materials for this enclosure? It wouldn't hurt to add that info to the details page.


I've sent you files! Sorry about the price, but we saw that price really depends on where you souce the materials and how long you're willing to wait for it. If you search and buy from aliexpress, ebay - you can get off really cheap. Some local companies also provides this items cheaply somewhere. I've personally paid around 120$ for alu extrusions / 200-250$ for everything (inc. raspberry, IP cam, all electronics etc. etc.) but somebody else can pay 2x that if their local providers has high prices, but still want to get things fast.

Gotcha. Thanks again!

How large is the filament room? (In height)

Hi Jure,
Just donated for your wonderful enclosure plans. Thank you for all your hard work. Looking forward to building my own for my CR-10 and Monoprice Maker Select 2.

Hey! Thanks so much for supporting my projects! I just send you files to your mail :)

I don't think I've ever had a response as fast as yours Jure, thank you, The details look great and well explained. Thanks again for sharing your ideas.

According to their promises it will be released very soon!

Best regards,

Hello, I just sent €10.00 for your special. My printer is Tronxy x5s and Monoprice Select Mini v2.

Thank you,


Thanks a ton! I've sent files right now :)

Best regards,

Is this enclosure only for the Prusa or can it be scaled to fit a Creality CR-10S?

It's fully scalable in any direction, so it can fit any printer precisely. Just when ordering components you increase or decrease some dimensions according to your wishes. :)

Thank you for your quick reply. I just donated via PayPal

Where did you buy the rounded extrusions? do they ship worldwide? does it come in Black? and is it 2020 or 3030?

They are 3030, but 2020 are also fine. They do come in black, but it's more rare option. It's best to find local supplier or buy from cheaper option. Soon there will be KIT available for this enclosure (mechanical part).

Will the kit fit a TronXY x5s 400? If so, I might wait and buy yours.

Hey! This enclosure is totally scalable. That means you can extend or shorten length, width or height. Any printer can fit into it and you can also stack more enclosures together if you got multiple printers.

I might be misunderstanding your use of the word KIT. My initial thought is that you will offer all the metal pieces pre-cut to size. So if you offered different sized KITs we would know which one to order to fit our printer. Am I misunderstanding?

KIT is currently not available yet, but some company from Portugal will offer real KIT, which will consist of all mechanic parts and there will be at least 2 different sizes available. However there won't be any electronics or wiring scheme, so you will still need those - but with electronics V2 that is also quite simple.

That is very awesome. Any idea how long until the KIT is available? Less than a month or more than two months? If less than two months I will wait, otherwise I will start ordering parts from your spreadsheet links. I so much to learn from you.

heyy, very interested. my paypal acount wants your email adress to send? can you please share to donate? Thanks

Sure! jure_korber @ t-2.net Sorry for problems :)

thanks again, sent and got the files.


Just tipped, ready to start making this amazing and sleek cover thanks.

I've sent files but there was problem with your mail. I'll PM you for different contact :)

Just tipped as well. looking forward to the plans.
Thanks for your work!

Thanks! They are being sent right now! :)

That's a nice looking enclosure. Just donated some money to you. Can't wait to build this.

Thanks! :) Files are already on your side :)

Prusa just posted a very nice enclosure tutorial that included a new cable router for the rear of the print bed that will save 50mm of space on the rear of the Mk2.5 and Mk3 printers. Here is the Thingaverse link for the new part. Might be handy for those of us with Prusa Printers and this enclosure.


Prusa Mk2.5 Mk3 90 Deg Heatbed Cable Bracket for MK52 V2 Heatbed

Did you write your own app?

Yeah! In V1 there is open Arduino code in V2 there is precompiled LCD code + open Arduino code :)

I also tipped. My Ikea enclosure is too big but your design will fit perfectly.

Love the design. Sending donation your way for the extra files as I definetly want to build one

Thanks a ton!

Sending the files your way right now! :)

Incredible design - thanks a lot for sharing it! A tip is on your way, looking forward to having this in my living room :)

Thanks so much! :)

Congrats!! it is exactly what I was looking for, enclosure and filtering (without expending 2K in it). I just send you a tip and I am looking forward to starting with it :)

Thanks so much! I've just send files your way :) Oh and by the way - I'm not sure how large is TEVO Tornado compared to Prusa. This enclosure dimensions just fits Prusa but if you need larger, just add a dimension - it's really flexible in size.

Jure, your design is great, I sent $10 for the details. Can't wait to get started on building it, as my MK3 is in my lab off of my woodworking shop, and subjected to dust that causes partial jambs. Thanks for you design.

Thank you so much! Files were sent! Yeah, that would be perfect for your case, but you might also think about putting a bit filter (filter paper, foam etc.) to air intakes. :)

Thank you for the files, and for confirming my thought of doing just that on the intakes. I'll have to remember to let you know when it is built.

In some really rare cases (<1%) paypal doesn't provide mail, so I have no mail to send info to. This just happened to someone named RYAN right now. If you're RYAN, please send me your e-mail over thingiverse message :) Thanks again everybody for helping next projects come to life! :)

Very nice! I do have a few questions for you. Have you thought about working on a Prusa-specific design which would allow someone to mount the psu and Rambo enclosure on the outside of the back left wall? How long have you been printing within this enclosure? If printing at higher temps for ABS and PETG, have you had any issues with having those components within the enclosure?

Thanks for sharing something that my wife won’t mind having in the family room :)


Thanks! Well putting electronics outside in not a big deal actually. You just need some holes or printed mounts to attach electronics to enclosure and some holes to guide wires through. It shouldn't be a problem, but here comes the fun part. I'm printing inside this enclosure for 1 year and 2 months now. I believe it's 1500h+ of printing inside the enclosure and I'm printing a lot of ABS and PETG at 35-40°C in enclosure. I have no problems with warping and printer is running really happy inside. I'm running fan at 20-30% to achieve this temperatures and the air gets filtered through hepa and carbon filter. I have intake holes near rambo and PSU, so there is actually fresh air coming through those components.

Best regards,
Jure :)


I just submitted the payment. Please let me know when you have emailed the files.


Thanks so much! Files were sent right now :) :)

Great Design! Thanks for posting / sharing this!

Nice design. Donation sent.

Sent payment. look forward to getting files!

Thank you for supporting my projects! Files are on your way=)

Thanks for the fast response

Donated, hope to see the files soon :-)

Thanks a ton! I've just sent files :)

Amazing work
What about hinges ? Where I can find that ? Is It 3d printed ?

Hey! Hinges are bought in local hardware store. They are plastic with steel axis, each wing is 20x20mm.

Sent payment. Still awaiting the email. It's for an @mygundb.com email address.

I was in workshop :) Mail sent right now. Thanks a ton!

Haven't received it.

It went through without warnings. I've sent you PM.

Money sent, thank you so much for the designs!

Thanks so much! :) <3

Any chance you could provide a Canadian supplier or the 80/20 catalog part numbers?

I believe that Mechanical BOM has 80/20 supplier links on the far right...

i just want to know what electronics you use (to add the same capabilities to my enclosure) ? how much you charge for that?
Ps: it's a beautiful enclosure that you made

Hey! Right now V2 electronics (more user friendly, more functions and flexibility) is in progress, I believe it will be more info on it after 2 weeks. This electronics work on Arduino Mega along with 3" 480x320px display.

How do you attach the hinges to the acrylic? Do you screw it on or glue it?

Hey! Acrylic sheets can be really easily drilled, so I've screwed the hinges to them. :)

Donated! Thanks so much for doing this. Looking forward to building it and sharing how it looks!

Thanks so much! :) :)

$10.00 CAD sent, neglected to put my email in the description due to a lack of sleep! It should be from lone**@live.ca, amazing work on the design!

Hey! Yeah, I get mail from your paypal, so it's no need to include it in description or anywhere :) Thanks! :)

Just donated $10 USD. Included my email in the comments. Can't wait to get the plans for this enclosure!

Thank you so much! Files should be there already :)

WOW that was incredibly fast! Literally had the files within 5 Minutes! I was expecting at least a few hours to a few days! Very impressed and can't wait to get started! Thank you!

Hah! :) Literally sent them the same minute, but my internet upload is so slooow! :D You got lucky, I just got to computer ;) Thanks again and good luck! :) :)

$10 donation sent (email address included in the message).

:) Files are on their way. Thank you for your support!

Awesome design! Donation is on the way! Looking forward to having this in my garage :)

Thank you so much for your support! :) Files are on your way=)

I sent a donation as well. Please email to email address removed Looking forward to getting the plans. Looks great

I'm thankful for your support!

Got all the files. Tons of info. Thanks a million

Donation sent. Please send to carybeaty@charter.net. Looks great, you should think about a stackable one.

I really appreciate all the support from you guys! This one is stackable. Using connectors, you can join more of them together :)

Donation sent. Thank you for your hard work. witzer@gmail.com

Thanks so much! :) :)

Thank you so much! :)

I sent $
Please send files to

Great work, I still don't have a 3d printer but plan to purchase and build a Prusa MK3. I refuse to begin my printing journey without an enclosure using a HEPA/Charcoal filter, because I live in a one bedroom apt. I know after we send the $10 we get the specs etc, but I was wondering just about how much money this has run others sourcing parts in the US? Anyone have any general estimate? I mean for everything: filters, electronics, and all. Obviously will need a rasberry pi, displays, lights, thermometers etc. The Prusa is going to seriously set me back, not cheap.

If you buy all everything, full package - I've paid around 300$. That also include raspberry and ip camera and everything. I've bought almost everything locally and it wasn't really cheap, compared to ebay. Based on some reports, you can get cheaper than that if you look over ebay for each particular item etc. But you can also get it much more expensive if you buy local, especially in US those normal 3030 profiles are quite expensive locally.

Wow that was a quick reply. Thank you very much sir. Looks like I should expect to spend around $1,050 USD or a little more all said and done. Going to be a very very expensive leap into 3d printing, so probably will not be doing it any time soon. Wish I had a dedicated room I could use in the meantime, I don't feel comfortable inhaling those particles. I will definitely keep this in mind when I do finally save up the funds, looks fantastic.

Well yeah... there are printers for 150$, but they don't print well. For living area printer enclosure provides some really nice features. It makes your printer silent, you can easily enable some kind of overtemperature or smoke alarm, you got odor+particles filtered out, filament is in nice dry place, it's highly decorative day or night :) ... Not to mention better printing quality etc. ;)

Yeah I was originally going to go for the Monoprice Maker Select V2, but I know of the issues it has and the safety/quality of life features on the Prusa MK3 are awesome. Well worth the extra $350 and time spent to save up/assemble it I think. Not only does your enclosure look really sleek and filter out some of the bad particles, the humidity thing is important. I live in a VERY humid city in the US, feels like you walk into a hot wet blanket every time you step outside haha. Maybe I will go ahead and just build this enclosure prior to having the money for the Prusa, I guess that would make sense. I'll Paypal you that money here in a few days, looking forward to this project. :) Now I just need a nice looking small table to work on.


Thanks for your quick reply on a Sat morning.


Is the spool area air tight?

Almost! There is seal all around the door, except the side where the hinges are. I guess you can make it airtight completely if required. From all other sides it's airtight and spool guides has foam in them, so there is no air moving around there either. Without any intake and exhaust holes, there is almost no air moving around.

This is what I've been looking for in an enclosure ... looks professional and like a piece of furniture ... tip sent

Thanks so much! :) (PM me your mail)

Awesome ... showed the Mrs and she said that it looked really cool and I should build this and we could put it in the living room as she thinks it then would make a good conversation piece!

That doesn't happen very often ... LOL
Will post pic of my build

Using a TronXY X5s, its gonna be a big one! nexusrevenge100789@gmail.com just donated. fantastic design!

Wow! Thank you very much! You can also look into getting black extrusions to match the printer. Just buy longer extrusions and bigger panels, accordingly - and any printer (or multiple) will fit :)

Black extrusions were apart of the idea from the start! Also, have people had issues with files getting caught up in spam?

I think not... I will resend right now and if it still doesn't get through, please PM me over thingiverse and we'll find solution :)

Just sent a donation to your account. Thank you so much for sharing. Very cool design!
Please send info to: ajachni@surewest.net

Thank you so much for your support! Files were sent already :)

Donation will be sent in a few minutes. Thank you for the great design!

I will send files right away=)

Sent $10 to you :-)
Send to aaron@northrock.bm

Wow, thank you! It's on your way! :)

Just send some $$ :)
Please send to Steven@3dstore.dk

Thanks! I've sent to paypal mail. If there is a problem, please message me and I'll send to different address again :) :) Thanks!!!

Thanks, that is just fine. Love your project.
Hope to see more in the future ;)

Thank you so much! :) :)

I just send the $10.
Question, it's compatible with MMU ?

Thank you so much! for MMU I recommend to use a bit longer vertical extrusions and panels, so printer area get something like 10-15cm more vertical room. Filament placement and overall design is perfect for MMU.


I sent the $10 for the pic, plans, material etc. Please send to netgator5000@gmail.com


Hey! Thanks a ton! I really appreciate your support! Files have just been sent!

That design looks sharp. I sent $10 to you for the plans and such. mandreko@gmail.com

Sure thing! Files are there! :)

Sharp design, sent money for the details

Thanks! I'll send to paypal mail :)

really nice design! money sent for the files and docs

Hi.the money is sent. my mail g_molina@outlook.com

Already there! Thanks a ton!

Money sent. Looking forward to building this.

Thanks a ton! :)

really nice design! money sent for the files and docs so I can build one.

Should be there a while now :) Thank you!

thanks but I never got it and I've triple checked my gmail folders/spam ect. also sent you an email with the email on file with paypal.

I'm sorry, they were sent to your paypal registered address, which seems to be your old one. I have resent files right now to mail you provided in PM.

very clean build. money sent and keep up the great work!

I really appreciate it! Thank you!

Money sent! awesome work :)

Thanks so much! Files should be there already!

Okay, so after sticking the enclosure into Sketchup then putting a model of the Prusa MK2S into the enclosure I noticed something that to me seems like a problem. I moved my Y axis all the way to the rear of the printer then measured how far the wire coming off the back of the bed is from the back face of the Rambo case and I get 6.25" (158.75mm) well according to the model with the Prusa sitting all the way towards the front of the enclosure the back face of the Rambo case is only 4.6" (116.84mm) which is roughly 1.65" (roughly 42mm) short, so that means as the BOM currently states the Y axis extrusions are 490mm long which they should be at least 532mm (rounding up to 535mm) In short, this means the wires coming off the heated bed will run directly into the back panel of the enclosure every time the printer does the self bed leveling operation.

Can you please confirm this? I am about to order all of my extrusions from Misumi. I am so glad I decided to model this project first!


Thank you for investigating. I don't think MK3 is somewhat larger than MK2. I'm running MK2 for over a year in this enclosure and there is no problem whatsoever. I've printed shorter LCD arms (STL are inside) so printer is closer to front, and I've also set printer on rubber feets, which makes it a bit higher. When front door closes, there is 1-2mm clearance to LCD. In the back position when Y is calibrating, the cables touch the back panel (only last 3-5mm of travel), but not that hard they they would actually put any significant force on the bed or cables themselves, they just bend a little. This is the smallest footprint of enclosure to fit MK2, MK3 in Y direction, while still enough for X direction to be same (it's cheaper to make 12x same length), and the most of sheets can be less or equal 500mm, which makes it much cheaper when buying the acrylics. However, this enclosure can be larger by any size to fit your needs. I will also include this explanation to ChangeLog.txt now :)

I can understand how raising the printer up above the front extrusion would allow you to bring the printer forward, especially if you change out the lcd bracket arms to push the lcd back towards the printer, but I still don't think you're going to get enough room to prevent the wires in the back from hitting everytime it does a bed calibration. Yes the wires can bend and it only happens during calibration, but by adding only a little more to the Y axis extrusions this can be completely avoided.
Those wires to the bed could be replaced with high quality silicone wires so they flex super easy compared to the wires that it originally came with, but on mine I'm going to simply add a little more length to the enclosure. Through Misumi the cost difference for longer Y axis extrusions is barely even noticeable.
There's no reason to change the X width unless you just want more room.
I should be done with the model tonight, so hopefully I can place the order with Misumi and start building this weekend.
BTW, everything other than the extrusions is way over priced through Misumi USA, but I'm going to try and update your BOM for guys in the USA when I get some time.

What's funny is that this enclosure is almost identical to the printer I have been designing for the last 6 months. I mainly needed your help with the electronics, and now I'm changing that too.

For people looking for a nice enclosure that doesn't have a lot of time or experience to design their own, this will be the way to go.

I noticed the same thing but I already ordered my extrusions, they just came in. Can you say what the final length for Y-axis needs to be so nothing hits at all?

I'm kind of pissed that I spent the money only to find out I need to go longer.

Well it does suck that its to late, but you can still fix the issue by replacing the stiff wire with some super flexible silicone wire that will never break due to bending. It's an easy fix with a soldering iron and in the log run will be better off anyway.
I've seen a few posts where the solder joints break off at the board, this wouldn't have happened if Prusa had used a silicone wire there to begin with.

Which printer do you intend to use?

MK2.5 with Zaribo 320 mod.

Oh, that's much taller printer! You can remove filament room partially or completely. or you can buy extensions and make filament room higher up. Extrusions fit together so nicely, you won't be able to see the seam if you decide for extensions!

I already adjusted for the extra headroom. My issue is with X and Y-axis. Smashing wire into the back wall will deteriorate the wire quickly and when I run the print bed all the way forward, the bed crashes so I lose a lot of the printable area. Can you confirm that 490 is right because according to my extrusions, it does not work.

I'm using this enclosure with Prusa MK2 for more than 1 year, I believe that's more than 1500 hours of print inside the enclosure, and I haven't got even one single problem with Y axis or the wire. If there WERE a problem, I'd just make 45°/60°/90° support for wires so they would go up behind the bed instead of horizontally out. Ofcourse you can also solder some silicon wire in between, which would cost 1,5$ - but again - there is no problem at all. You can also move printer LCD away completely and run it out and below the enclosure, which I already seen in one modification of my enclosure, and that also solves a "problem" completely.

Comments deleted.

Incredible enclosure. What an awesome design. Have sent 10euro and am looking forward to building this for my MK3!

Thanks! Well received and already sent the docs=)

amazing enclosure! 10euro sent. Cant wait to get building this. Thanks

Comments deleted.

Nice! Thanks! :) Files should be there by now :) :D

Also sent a donation, keep up the good work, will definitively build this!

Congratulations!!! Best I've ever seen. Just sent you the donation!

Thanks a ton! It's my birthday today actually :) I'm sending stuff right now!

Nice, received the files already.

Congratulations on your birthday too!


I have made donation. Looking forward to getting the part list. Thank you!

Thanks a ton! It's my birthday today actually :) I'm sending stuff right now!

This is a perfect enclosure for my new MK3 and multi filament add on. I have made my donation as requested. Looking forward to getting the part list so that I can get this built asap. Thank you for taking the time to make this a stylish addition to the printer. I may try to do the whole project in black and Prusa Orange so that it matches the printer design. Thanks again

Thank you very much! I think it's doable in black/orange scheme, but you maybe need to paint some plastic parts and get aluminium extrusions anodized. :)

Thanks a ton! It's my birthday today actually :) I'm sending stuff right now!

Donation made a couple of days ago. Thanks.

Thank you! :)

Edit: Got it! Thanks so much. Beautiful design.

I've sent you message, please respond :)

This is exactly what I've been looking for! 10 Eur sent.

Additional informations are on your way. Thanks so much for support, guys!

Like it very much. Sent 13,-€. Looking forward to get the docs.

On your way! Thanks so much!

Thanks. That was really fast.
Have a nice day!

Such good work requires a donation! 15 euro sent :)

I have enough of my wobbly IKEA Lack table, this should be a lot more stable.

I have two questions though;

one - where did you hide the electronics like Raspberry Pi, 5V or 12V power supply?
I will change the design a little bit it i get the files, and add a small drawer like compartment underneath the printer to throw the electronics stuff in.

two - how's the airflow? I had a lot of trouble getting air out of my case through the HEPA filter, can you mount a incense stick in front of the exhaust fan and it sucks the air out while the door is closed?
My fans ony twirled the air around in the case; if there was a filter sheet directly in front or behind the case the airflow is a complete bust.

Wow! That's so generous of you!

This enclosure is really super stable! It has that good industrial feel, where everything is rigid, quiet and professional.

Q1: I've placed electronics (you can see which power supply and voltage regulators I used in the BOM and electrical scheme) in the back bottom of printer enclosure. You will find it in the build photo gallery.

Q2: Learned from aerodynamics - you need at least 2x larger input area than exhaust area. That is provided with 5 holes with "vent covers" on the bottom. They are placed in the edges + 1 in the middle. The one in the middle is usually closed, to prevent airflow around the bed.

  • It's very hard to see the real airflow around the fan, because it has some serious "blow-back" with HEPA on output, which requires quite a lot of pressure. But there is surely some airflow, as it keeps the enclosure temperature down, depending on vent power setting.

10 euro sent, looking forward to building this!

Thank you! Enjoy the build!=)

Sent some money as well, really love the design and setup you have here. Great work!

Thank you so much!

Money sent, great job, I'm happy to support such awesome work!

Thank you very much!!!

13$ (USD) just sent. Looks amazing and I cant wait to get building.

Awesome enclosure. Paid my $13 USD. Looking forward to getting the details. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! You'll get all the details that moment :)

Just sent you my 10€. I was thinking around the idea how I would enclosure my printer and your solution looks amazing.


Thank you so much!!! I will send all additional info right away!

Totally worth the $10 but I like rewarding someone who goes beyond the norm. Bravo!

Awesome construction! Looking forward to build this myself! Though i might change little things here and there! :D
Will send my 10$ Donation in the next few minutes! :)

Thanks a lot! :)

This is an awesome looking project. Sucks to hesr that some people took advantage of your ideas and commercialized them, but I have a question. Why not just change the licensing permissions to show "non-commercial"? This would give you a lot more legal recourse for theft of intellectual property.

Just curious. I may throw $10 your way just to see how it all works.

Thanks! Well... mostly the copycats are Chinese, companies that makes injection moulds out of your design and fabricate it massively. If you actually succeed in prosecution, they will close the company and open new one with the same people, machines, location the very next day. They may even not change the name. It's impossible to get to them. For example... they took my Stinger design and copied it (badly?) and make hundreds if not thousands copies. They didn't even reply to my mail (manufacturer and reseller). https://imageshack.com/a/img923/9914/DHFEaJ.jpg

Thank you for donating - it really helps me going with future hobby projects!

Donation sent. Quick question. Will you make revisions to the arduino code available to those who donated? I'm not very good at Arduino programming.

Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate support for my future projects! This revision that I sent is working (fan, lights, 2x temp+humidity sensor, rtc). I cannot guarantee there will be any more revisions or updates - maybe if some really important bug or feature shows up.

Looks awesome. Donated as I am very interested in putting one of these together.

Thank you! You will receive all additional info right now! Thanks for supporting my future projects!

how easy is it to adjust it, like 2 stacke on each other?

Because those are standard aluminium profiles, there is wide range of connectors available for them. It's very simple to stack them on each other or side by side. For maximal stackability you can use normal profiles instead of rounded and closed that I used. That would mean you could stack all the sides together, regarding orientation :).

Thanks! :) It's very useful thing to achieve better printing quality and service. :)

What is the final material+elettronics cost?

That kinda depends on your retailer and where you get the material from. I've personally paid around 150eur for all mechanical parts and around 40eur for electronics. Could get even cheaper, but not locally and that fast. :) Definitely worth that money in the end!

Hi Jure!

First of all, this is such an amazing design! I really love it... thank you so much for making it available to us instead of just making it for yourself! Way to go!

I am a bit curious about your cost estimate here though if you don't mind? Do you include in that 150eur the acrylic/plexiglass? Because based on back of the envelope guesses, I'm at USD$190 just for the aluminum extrusion and connection pieces. Acrylic by my estimate would be USD$140 on top of that if I am guessing correctly at ultimate the sizing, and that doesn't consider the plywood or of the carbon fiber decals.

I am hoping I just don't know the best places to buy this stuff in the USA, and once I make a donation this will be explained?

Thanks in advance!


I've paid 25eur (30$?) for precut acrilyc sheets (3mm and 5mm clear transparent) and around 17eur (20$?) for precut plywood. Both was bought in local acrylic shop (they are making signs for companies) and wood store (they are mostly selling furniture and furniture pieces). The thickness of the panels can vary 1/1.5mm up/down, so can be bought in local dimensions.

Aluminium extrusion can also be bought from Aliexpress or Ebay if you're willing to wait for it. I believe there was a guy showing the receipt last time for half that price. Carbon decals are really cheap... something like 10$ or so. I have some links for USA sources that people reported back, but not on acrylics and plywood as everybody is buying that locally.

Where can I find the lcd controller ???

LCD controller is build of: Arduino Mega, 480x320 TFT 3.2" color LCD, rotary encoder HY-040 and some sensors etc.