In my continuing adventures with sim racing on a budget, I picked up a used Oculus Dev Kit 2 last year. It's great for racing sims, even with a PC that is below the recommended specs for VR, but when I wanted to take a detour into more general VR gaming, I discovered an issue with controls. Oculus' Touch controllers are not incredibly expensive, but they connect wirelessly to something inside the CV1 headset instead of directly to the computer over a standardized protocol, so it isn't usable with the dev kits. I could've maybe tracked down a Razer Hydra set, but the cheapest VR motion controller solution uses Playstation Move controllers: https://github.com/cboulay/PSMoveService/wiki
There are still issues with this setup, such as precision and play area size, but the biggest might be that the standard Move wand is not even close to "button parity" with the newer motion controllers most VR games are designed for. Sony would've had similar issues when initially designing the system, which is why they made the Move Navigation controller, which adds a joystick, D-pad, a second trigger and a shoulder button. However the Navi controller does not have any kind of motion tracking, so you can't play much with a Move wand in one hand and a Navi in the other. What you really want is both in each hand.
There are a lot of ideas on how to do this: https://github.com/cboulay/PSMoveService/wiki/PS-Move-and-Navigation-Controller-United and there are certainly simpler ways than this one. Initially I downloaded freely available 3D models of the Move and Navi controllers and tried to design my own completely 3D printed solution, but either due to plastic warping or inaccuracies in those models, my test print didn't even come close to fitting. I went back to the page I liked to and looked at the pictures from the "DualPlay" crowdfunding campaign. Usually I wouldn't want to rip off an unproduced design from a crowdfunding campaign, but on close inspection you can see that their prototypes were just cut-off parts from Sony Move SharpShooter accessories, glued together by bridges that were probably 3D printed and painted black. (The SharpShooter is the only mass-produced accessory with holders for both the Move wand and Navi controller). Before I started, that seemed like it would be easy enough to copy.
Print 1 of each part. Only the top joiner needs support. I printed all parts in ABS with 4 walls and 50% infill for strength.
For each one of these you want to make, you need to obtain and destroy a Sony Move SharpShooter. It's a pretty large toy gun, so if you have to buy one online the shipping cost will probably make the project not cost-effective, better to find one locally.
You only need some philips head screwdrivers and maybe a prying tool to get it apart. You'll want to remove and hand on to the two small screws at the front of the Move controller cradle. There's a slide cover thing at the front that is only held on by 3 screws, which should be removed first. The two textured grip panels are actually screwed in from the inside, so don't bother trying to pry them off. Then you can undo all of the screws in the body of the gun. The only "hidden" screws are the ones under caps for the rotary switches on the sides. I started pulling it apart from the top, then worked around the back and to the bottom. If you want to be careful, maybe keep track of where all the springs came from.
For the Navi holder, you want to make your top cut about 8mm past the screw hole. There's a few mm of wiggle room built into my model, so it doesn't have to be perfect or straight. You don't actually want to make the bottom cut where it is on the DualPlay prototype. It turns out there's a bit of spring steel inside there that holds the bottom flap shut. Really, the smart thing to do would be to not cut something before you take it apart and check what's inside.
For the Move holder, your cuts should follow the lines molded into the outside of the plastic. Using Harbor Freight's absolute cheapest rotary tool, these cuts took me 30-45 minutes per side. Probably better to take your time than lose a finger, though.
After cleaning up the cuts, you can reassemble the holders.
Here are your initial toss/keep piles
love too cut
I designed the joiners to fit over the top of the Navi holder and to just hug the curve at the other 3 points of contact. There are holes for M3x10mm screws, and it seemed solid enough just screwed together, but I glued mine together for extra security.
Mark paper or tape to find the centerpoint for your first hole in the top of the Move holder. I'm not sure what kind of plastic it is, so I drilled a small pilot hole and then worked up through each bit size until the hole was large enough for an M3 screw. Use the screw to attach the top joiner, pop the Navi holder into the other side, and then you should be able to mock up and mark the location for the bottom holder. I drilled the second hole in the Move holder before starting the hole in the Navi holder. The Navi holder is two separate plastic parts, so it is easy to mark the center point but hard to actually drill. There's enough space in the Move holder for screw heads, but I countersunk the hole in the Navi holder. Once you have everything fitting together, you can glue things in place. The "brace" fits into the bottom of the other part of the Move holder. If you followed my instructions you would've cut off everywhere where the two halves screw together, so gluing them back together adds strength back in.
If you were careful you can put it back togteher