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The $3.47 3D Scanner

by datac Feb 10, 2018
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Hello all, You can print the horizontal holes without support ??

Hello, I printed the whole thing without support. It should be a very easy print.

Hello, everything is printing fine , except i found that on the small 6 piece table the dovetails are sloped the wrong way. They fit together to form an s but not to form a round. I am familiar with Dovetails ( woodworker ) is this a file mistake or do I need to file and glue?

Was able to print it and get it to take pictures, but 3dfZepher was unable to generate an appropriate mesh.


I need to scan something that is about 12-14" long (300 - 350mm), would this work?

I think your scanner need to be more rigid, this one is to brittle to print. Sorry know i am a first time printer of things but it broke trying to get the fill parts out. not enough walls to thicken it. sorry will try again.

I'm going to have to try this. I also think it deserves a remix or redesign where the turntable is from an empty filament spool.

I had the same thought when i´ve seen this stand...i think i will work something out on blender.

The tough thing would be integrating the drive gear to the spool- you'd end up printing that anyway and gluing it to a portion of your cut-up spool, with no guarantee that the design would work with another brand's spool. Like most of us I have a giant mountain of empty spools, I'd love to find a way to recycle them. It frankly ticks me off that most suppliers don't just use cardboard, and instead use non-recyclable polyethylene.

I cant seem to find out where to use the pin and knob. Any tips?

The pin goes through the hole at the end of the crank and fastens the knob.

Fantastic design. I plan on using this turntable with my camera instead of a phone. Are there parts that can be eliminated from the assembly since I don't need to trigger the volume button to take pictures, or are those parts required structurally?

The adjusting bolt and nut, cam, and carrier could be eliminated.

Sorry I don't want to sound ungrateful but this wonderful design has been utterly useless for me... 3df zephyr and all other 3d reconstruction software require that the object is still. Taking photos of an object on the turntable and 3df zephyr won't be able to reconstruct anything from the photos. Have you guys had more success? Can you share an example?

In this example, it is easy to see that photogrammetry software (meshroom) and a moving object fit well together.


Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

It worked perfectly! Thanks.

I used an Ender-2 (150x150mm) with 0.06 layer height + 20% infill for all pieces, and 0.1 for the big turntable (divided in 6 TinyTurntableB models)... and I had a hard time making it fit, but it worked at the end with patience and some pressure using the right tools (trimming would work too but I'm not THAT patient).

Do you all have amazing printers or something? I printed everything and nothing fits together. The only thing that worked without tons of filing was the thread between the worm gear and crank shaft. What is your secret?

Any chance you can share the step files or whatever so that I can create reasonable tolerances for my printer?

did you calibrate your printer?

I used an Ender-2 on 0.06 layer height on Cura + 20% infill for most parts except for the Turntable where I used 0.1 layer height. I only had issues with the bigger plate when assembling the 6 "TinyTurntableB" models. Everything else fitted just fine (a little bit too tight).

[Edited; changed OpenSCAD to FreeCad] -- I cannot get the Tiny Turntable A to slice. I'm using Slic3r and it complains about open loops. Tried to repair the file in FreeCad, no joy. It just removes parts of the turntable. Tried some of the online .stl repair sites, same issue. Everything else is printed and looks good and I don't want to throw it all away because of this one piece. Everything I have tried leaves "open loops" that cannot be closed. Can someone who actually knows what they are doing help me please? Thanks!

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I'm wondering whether it's possible to print the Roller part without poor overhangs? I tried printing both with supports and without but results are the same. Don't get me wrong the part is usable, but just looks a bit ugly :) The rest of the parts are printed on my MK3 with excellent quality, just like expected.

For those printing this, I found that I had much better strength on the crank by printing it sideways. My first print actually snapped the shaft off the base while removing it. Vertically printing it gave it strength all the way through the base instead of printing on top of it

I'm nearly finished printing this off. I really like this whole thing overall. One critique I have is that the arms where the rollers sit are fairly thin. I've broken half of them just by moving stuff around. I don't know if you'd consider having that section thicken in some way or not.


"oh about tree Fiddy" ...i says get out of here monsta -southpark :}

nut and bolt print beautifully but wont thread. suggestions?

What I'm going to do is chase threads with a die and the nut with corresponding tap

What's the dimension of the large turntable (just the top flat circle piece). Thank you.

200mm diameter

Can i use this with a samsung A5 2016 phone ?

i can't find a 3DF Zephyr installer for my Mac. Is this program not compatible with Macs? If so, does anyone know an alternative program I could use?

To many part, need to print all of this part?
there is a video about how to add all the part?

You only print the parts you need. There’s parts for a tiny turntable and parts for the larger turntable. The size of your print bed will determine which parts you need to print.

Zephyr works better when you move the camera and not the object. I was unable to make the dense cloud from points generated from the pictures with this.

Though perfect print everything printed perfectly and easy to assemble.

printing worm now, slow 210 c largest raft flashprint allows crapload of glue
will reply with results in an hour generic grey pla from gearbest. Overhang just started

fail, lowered temp and layer height
temp of 205
flashforge finder
might add external cooling

I cannot seem to print the worm. I have already looked in the comments below... I've printed the worm part 4 times already and it prints fine until it gets to the spiral part. I don't know what to do. I basically have an incomplete model because of the stupid worm part.

Can you use this with android?

I found out the hard way that the tolerances are not forgiving. My Anet A8 printer was not up to making a sliding fit between the turntable and frame or between the adjusting screw and nut. I've re-made the screw and nut after increasing the tension on both the X and Y belts and that produced a useable fit. Now I guess I should re-make the turntable and frame.

I would suggest removing the tunnels through the towers of the frame. They don't seem to add anything but extra overhangs.

I am having trouble printing the adjusting nut and bolt. The threads on the bolt end up wobbly looking which makes it impossible to screw into the nut. I am printing on a Prusa I3 MK2s. My first try was at 0.2mm layer height at 60mm/s. I tried one more time at 55mm/s thinking that might help clean up the threads.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Great design. Prints well works great, does what you said it does.

A couple suggestions / questions if you ever update the design:

  • agree with whoever suggested some holes for screws in the bottom to hold it down
  • a second screw assembly under the remote control might be helpful
  • some connections between the bottom of the crank support and the two adjacent roller supports would help stabilize the crank support. It can wobble a bit in the current design when you are turning the crank
  • any chance of different gear ratios? I can imagine a ratio of 15:1 rather than 30:1. Then by using a cam with 1,2 or 3 lobes you'd get the option of 15, 30, or 45 shots
  • have you tried it without the rollers? I can't really tell they do anything unless I'm scanning something heavy and off center

Also, are you able to get to something you can print using the free version of Zephyr or some other free photogrammetry application? Using Zephyr your scanner produces a very nice model, but the free version of Zephyr doesn't yield STLs as far as I can tell. Any suggestions?

Thanks again for an outstanding design. Good stuff

Comments deleted.

I can not print well the "worm" :(
part that is done with the supports?

I ask for help thanks

What printer? Mine came out perfect. Looks like you'r printing to hot, to slow, and no cooling?

I Use PLA 230 Celsius, fan 100%, print speed 55mm/s.


Hello, Hatchbox black wood - what kind of plastic? ABS, PLA, PETG ...?

It's a composite comprised of PLA and wood fiber. Hatchbox makes it in three colors, this is black.

I'm having trouble with the shaft connecting to the worm. My printer isn't printing at too great of a quality, so the worm gear comes out with very narrow space between each tooth. And then when I try to assemble the shaft to the worm, it acts like the shaft is too big, and the worm's hole is too small. I've tried heating the plastic with a lighter to let the shaft "melt" into the worm's threads, but then it doesn't stay, so I used a hot glue gun which temporarily helped until the turntable is pushed all the way down on the frame, at which the turntable sticks. I'm thinking I'm going to have to edit this print, and instead of threads, make it a square joint, much like you did with the cam on the shaft.

It sounds like you're suffering from a bit of overextrusion. If you do something like a square joint, you'll need to glue the pieces. I'd used a threaded connection to make it possible to swap different cams- altering the number of lobes would allow different multiples of 30 exposures.

depending on how it turns out, I may post the stl files I edited as a remix

How do you dovetail joint that big round piece ?! Please help

Female side (usually the bigger piece) goes flat on the table, male piece snaps down from the top. There's a taper, so if you try it backwards you're in trouble. It's a friction fit, so you likely won't need any glue, etc.

So I've printed this but have no idea how my iPhone headphone volume switch is supposed to fit securely under the cam. Does anyone have a photo of this set up as it is supposed to function with the headphones?

I've got quite a few "picture sets" from this scanner now, printed at 65% scale. My problem is using them and I figured the people in this comments thread might have some suggestions. I've tried 3DF ZEPHYR FREE, but it only supports Nvidia graphics cards, so it runs off the CPU and after 6 hours of "working" on my model I forced closed it. The Scann3d app for Android wants me to sign up for a subscription to import my picture sets. Any other software out there to test out these picture sets?

That's very odd- I don't have an Nvidia card, just el cheapo Intel integrated graphics in an old G620, and 3df Zephyr Free works fine for me- maybe takes 5-10 minutes, nothing excessive. You mentioned earlier that you weren't using a phone- if you're shooting in a much higher resolution, that could absolutely account for the difference.

Can you show any examples of the models produced with this thing?

Hopefully this is my last question. I did get a beautiful worm gear finally by printing 2 of them at once very far apart on the build plate allowing for super long cool times between layers.

How the whole "headphone button" part works I'm still a little lost on since I don't have an iphone...I do plan on utilizing the cam action in a different way though. Anyways...I can't quite tell from the shadows on the pictures which way is up for the carrier..the part with the groove, or the does the groove face down. 2nd, should the bolt head (square) fit tight into the carrier so it doesn't move...or loosely so it slides easily. If anyone has gotten that part of the design to run smoothly, I'd appreciate their thoughts on those questions...thanks!

** On a side note to the designer: I was easily able to drill some holes, but it might be nice to have some holes print in the arms of the frame for bolting or screwing the whole thing to something solid. It's so light that turning the handle almost always moves the whole model and since my phone mount is a whole separate item it causes the pictures to be off a little. Drilling holes and screwing it to a piece of plywood along with my phone mount worked perfect...but some holes thrown into the design might help out.

Thanks for publishing your work and answering questions...I know it takes up a lot of time to do so.

Good idea with the holes, I'll throw them in. I normally keep one hand on the frame, but I could have made it easier by including a handle or something similar.

Fantastic job on this one. There's this really small problem: Worm and crank's screw threads do not match. Worm's thread is way bigger and thus the crank won't contact the worm

I assume you're talking about the threaded connection between the crankshaft and the worm? That's very odd- I've printed a number of them, and they fit just fine. I assume you're not doing any scaling or anything similar...

I finally got to fix it. I glued them together , probably my printer's settings messed up the thread. I remixed the carrier and cam to fit bigger headphone buttons.

My recommendation: Print the Worm gear 1st to see if your printer will give you a usable part. I did that last...and can't get a usable gear...so I'm stuck with an "almost" printed model for now. Will probably have to have it professionally printed which isn't a huge deal I suppose.

I assume the worm is falling over before the print is complete? For skinny prints with small footprints, sometimes it's helpful to use a raft, or even supports (not necessary to hold up the layers, just to enlarge the footprint and give it a more stable base while printing).

Yeah, I had the 1st attempt fall over, then I've tried with a raft several times also. It's just the fact that the worm gear itself has the overhangs which even with good even cooling curl up ever so slightly. Generally with a solid part the nozzle's heat will just push it back down with the next layer....but because it's so tall and thin...the "tower" tends to bend back and forth instead and I end up with slightly misshapen worm gear that just won't work. I might give it a few more tries the next time I switch filament to something that doesn't curl up as much with the overhangs....or an external fan to help with even more air-flow. I haven't given up yet. :) And I've scaled everything down a little to fit on my print bed...so I'm sure I would be having better luck with 100% scale. Had I printed the worm first instead of last...I probably would have chosen to use your 2 piece models instead of scaling down.

Can someone post a picture of the entire setup with a phone and subject... Im trying to visualise how this will work without yet having printed out the model. Downloaded it now and it is in the queue for printing. Just curious to see one setup - and not sure how the taking of the picture is triggered, or whether that is a manual process. IE, turn-click-turn-click-turn-click 30 times?

No, as it says in the description, the cam automatically triggers your phone's camera through the headphone controls thirty times for each rotation of the turntable as you turn the crank. That's pretty much the whole point of the thing.

How are you routing the headphones? Mine is very loose.

Very nice print ! Which filament did you use ?

Heh, Hatchbox black wood. I love this stuff.

This is the setting that I use to print a one piece turntable on maker select v2 since it barely fit 200mm x 200mm
Using Cura I changed the machine setting of the bed X: 205 mm & Y: 210mm.

then to place the turntable, put it flat then set X: -1.84 mm and Y: 4.34 mm.
its printing right now and wont be finish until tomorrow and looks like the edge where the further right and the top got shaved about ~1mm which is better than printing them in 2 pieces

Could the table be removed and a dinner plate or some such placed on top for simplicity/speed for those with small beds?

No, the gear and locating geometry is an integral part of the turntable. It's only 2mm thich (4mm at the edge), so it doesn't take much to print.

thank you, looking forward to making a copy this week

What software are you using to scan with?

Just the phone's camera. The resulting images are then imported into 3df Zephyr.

Thank you i will try it out.

do you mind designing a phone mount if possible, thanks

good adaptation and design.
practical and functional.
little time of printing.

Thank you very much for the design, everything fits perfectly, takes up little space and works very well.

3 Questions:
Is this usable with an android phone?
How does the phone needs to be placed in order to work?
Do you need a specific phone stand for this to work?

I'll be trying it latter with SCANN3D app for Android. I'm using both a Note5 and an S8+ for scanning. I'll report back with updates.

Any updates? Interested how much this helps SCANN3D do it thing...as I've gotten mediocre results at best with that app.

Good idea just not there yet. I tried multiple phone positions and different articulating arms for stability with no luck. SCANN3D actually works better with you just walking around the object.

Is it possible that you create one file from Turntable A and Turntable B? My Bed is big enough and i do not have to glue something

Just added one piece versions of both the turntable and frame.

Thank you as well. I was just about to do this.

Thanks. many times!

Hey there, are there supposed to be files for the rollers in here? I don't see them in the files for this model.

Not certain how that got left out- it's in there now.

Perfect! Thank you so much! I’m printing this as we speak, so I’ll set up another gcode file with four of the rollers. :)

Glad to hear it! I did use supports on the rollers, only place in the whole project.

Heck, I opted to do the entire thing with supports, let alone the rollers. I always like to be sure. :)

First batch done. Printing up the second batch of parts now!

That's a big print bed! I should throw up the non-pieced together version, save you some hassle.

Oh yeah, the Prusa i3 MK2S’s 210x250mm bed has been absolutely liberating for me.

But no worries - it’s already complete!

Would it even be possible to make a version of this that could print on a 110 circle x 120 height bed? I know construction would be a lot more work printing it that way but unfortunately that's the sizes I'm working with for now.

Hmm, that's pretty small, but let me see what I can do to shake something out in the next few days.

Awesome, thanks! And yeah I hope to have a bigger one around this time next year.

I just put up a version of the turntable and frame that should print on a 110mm circular bed- let me know how it goes!

Thanks again. I've got the first part printing right now. It's going to take me a few days to get it all printed and put together but I'll update you soon.

Have you already made scans with it? What SW did you use for it and if possible, could you share a photo or file of the scan-result? Thanks in advance.

Yep, works well. As I mentioned, I use the free version of 3df Zephyr. I'll add a shot of a scan.

Did you post the results anywhere?