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Monoprice Select Mini Thumbwheel Leveling System

by ahutton1972 Feb 6, 2018
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Why i cant use M3 bolts?
M2s are very difficult to find.
I printed all parts but buying M2 is quite hard for me...

M2 screws and nuts are used so that the stock platform (black part, not the bed) under the bed doesn't need to be modified / drilled to make a M3 screw work. The M2 screws will slip right through the M3 holes in the black platform allowing the bed to move up and down freely. If I were to use M3, the screws would catch in the M3 threaded holes in the platform and would prevent the leveling from working. I agree that the M2 screws and nuts are a pain. But the goal of this mod was to be able to use thumb wheels without any modification to the stock system. This way someone could, if they wanted, revert back to the stock configuration. I'm sorry the M2 screws and nuts are difficult to come by in your region. I am currently working on a different leveling system that uses M3 or M4 screws and nuts. It is not ready for publishing though.

Any chance you could upload the source files? STEP? Looking to remix this design for M3 hardware

I'm printing this out right now. Just to note, there is technically no need to change the bed size if you rotate the part, they fit diagonally on the bed without any settings changes :)

I like the idea of this quite a bit. I have not installed it yet, but I still have one suggestion. On the new piece for the rear with wire management, make that hole open topped so it can be installed, or the bed removed, without having to unsolder the bed wiring.

That's a good suggestion. In the past If I've needed to remove the bed, I would disconnect the wires from the main board and slip them through the hole. It is however a pain. So I'll look into the open top or possibly a screw down top that you can easily remove.

Maybe incorporate how the top of the management that is done here? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2710870 I currently have the middle one installed and works quite well.

MPSM Wire Brace

How were you able to make this fit on the bed for printing? I have Cura set to 120mm^3, and I can't get it to fit no matter how I rotate or move the braces.

EDIT: I can get it to fit in the same orientation as your picture, but only if I set the bed to 125mm^3, and the skirt still trails off during printing. To get it looking like the one in your picture, I imagine I'd have to have a bigger bed. Or just scale it, but then it surely wouldn't line up with the mounting holes?

Per the instructions (Step 2), I did have to set the bed to 125 x 125 to fit the part. To get it to fit don't use a skirt or brim. Scaling is not going to work for the reasons you describe. Let me know if you still have problems.

I had been thinking about doing something like this, but I had a far simpler idea. Tell me if you considered it or tried it first and ruled it out as unworkable. I would keep the original adjustment hardware and glue/weld the thumbscrew so it is midway between the two plates halfway down the screw. Then put in two springs--one above and one below the thumbscrew. Now, when you turned the wheel, it would turn the screw (just like using the allen wrench) to raise and lower the bed. See file attached.

Why not just make the wheel just under the heat bed (print in ABS for heat resistance) Super glue it to the screw (making sure you're not gluing the screw to the bed. Even if the thumb wheel fails, just unscrew with the allen and reglue the wheel.

I ended up taking an entirely different approach using aluminum. Basically, I extended the heated bed along the Y axis by adding two aluminum rails and moved the adjustment screws to the the edges of the lower bed. Here's a Fusion 360 pix. http://a360.co/2C4CL3q .

I think that would work. I hadn't thought of that setup in particular. The only thing that "might" concern me is the lateral stability of the bed with the longer screws but it may not be an issue. Obviously the bed would be raised higher so you would still need a spacer on the z-axis. I had thought about using a two spring setup to regain the play in the bed if the nozzle were to hit it. But for my first go, I decided to go with the simpler approach used by a lot of other printers.

I used 20% infill when printed. You could experiment with other percentages as there is no real stress on these parts.

Couldnt you have 4 different corners to print out instead of having it extend across?

It's possible, but for stability purposes I extended the brackets. I will see if I can work on option like this with better stability.