assembly requires soldering.
this is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2424717
changes were because i dont have any LED strip lighting segments to use for it. but harbor freight sells a LED light swithc for $4.99 (and many times free if you use a coupon (like right now))
it included pretty much everything needed except for a 6v power supply (the LED uses 4 AAA batteries, something i don't want to use for this.
it has a switch with the needed resistors, 2 led strips. and some small wires (which got thrown away)
the original was modified to accommodate the switch, the longer (and brighter) LED strips.
also the 6 pegs (2 for each LED and switch) i added are taller then needed to allow you to melt them down and hold the components in place.
i have printed it and i have wired it up. and it all works.
once i finish (my glue is drying (i used e6000, and that takes a day to cure)) i will take photos and post them
pi camera front.stl requires supports, but everything else dosent.
wiring aid.stl is to allow you to mount the LEDs in the normal position so you can figure out wiring. if you plan on using them print 2
the original file uses JST connectors, but all i have is dupont connectors so i made a adapter (dupont to jst.stl) print it if you have dupont connectors and don't want to order a JST connector.
the square mounting points were very tight so i had to file them down. to get them to fit.
if the 6 pegs are too big then look for bumps and lumps and cut them off. if it still wont fit then cut them down on the sides some more. they should be a little tight.
if the leds wont seat after getting the pegs jsut right, then check the end of the mount in between the 2 wire chanels that seems to be a culprit of inhibiting seating of the leds.
the JST adapter is quite tight when seated with a connector in it. and that was after i did a lot of fine tuning (AKA filing) just feed the wires through before you crimp them, otherwise they won't fit. i dont have the skills to make it perfect for all printers.
ive been wantign to take timelapses of my prints but the lighting by my printer is poor.
i liked the original thing, but i did not like the cost (over 20 dollars for the LED other components extra)
so i was planning on going to harbor freight for some threadlock and some other tools, and i had a coupon for the LED switch for free. so i decided to see if i could make it work.
unfortunately the LEDs were taller then the original file supported. so this remix was born.
the tools and materials you will need are
a) soldering iron
b) old soldering iron tip with a flat surface (or ultrasonic welder)
c) desoldering pump and braid
d) wire stripper
e) wire in 4 colors (i used red, black, green, and blue)
f) glue (i used e6000)
g) crimper for either JST or dupont connecters
h) JST or dupont terminals and housing
i) a light switch from harbor freight
j) a 6 volt power supply (FYI 400 mA may cause flickering)
first let's get the electronics ready
1) first begin by disassembling the light.
a) open the plastic by removing 6 screws.
b) cut the wires from the battery terminals in the middle
c) now take photos of the circuit specifically the soldering points. this is in case you need it later.
d) now using the soldering iron and desoldering pump solder everything.
e) remove all the remaining solder with the desolder braid
e2) if you are going to cave the battery contacts then this is a good time to remove the old solder.
f) set aside the 2 leds and switch assembly. (mine contains all needed components to power the LEDs from 6 volts
get the prints ready
continue once you are done printing both the front and back and any of the other parts you want.
first finish the parts
sand/file/cut the rectangular pins (on the top and bottom (and the wiring aid, if using them)) so they fit together. they should be a little tight.
sand and file the JST adapter (if using it so when there is a dupont connecter seated in it does not protrude from the top of the bottom half (otherwise it would interfere with seating the bottom and to once all wiring is done.
note, your wiring setup may be different
first let's add 2 red wires to both connectors on the switch.
other then that the rest is up to you, remember if you have the connecters too long then just re route the wires a bit to remove the slack
below is picture that shows my wiring
note i messed up wiring the blue and green, so ultimately wound up wiring these on the back.
note 2: because i didnt clean the solder flux, and this makes the etching indicating what the pads were i wrote on a sheet of paper the pads polarity.
the red and green are incorrect for my setup.
my fix, showing the cut wires (they don't connect to anything, other then the other cut wire of the same color)
my fix showing the solder joints
as i stated above i messed up the wiring. so i desoldered blue and green wires, and cut them short as possible.
i then ran the blue and green wires outside the case, fixing the issue.
as i did this i broke the switch so i bridged that with some solder
below is a photo showing the fix