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CR-10 Dual V6 Extruder Update 1.3

by jaimefriasjr Feb 1, 2018
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Are you able and or willing to share any CAD files?


great work

could you add a mounting option for a Bondtech BMG as direct drive?


Sure, just send me a link from Bondtech store with the product just to be sure I do the right one.

great work, but how did you add a second Z axis Stepper to the mks controller, there are only 5 ports right, and your using 6 steppers.
​Thank you

Sorry for the late response, when you upgrade to a dual z-axis, you tend to get a cable that splits in two. The motors are so small that the driver is able to give enough power to both of them.

I'll post this here too, so the users will be aware of the issues with this mount.

I believe that you modeled it so the plastic on the mount would directly hit the switch, since it completely goes over the X axis pulley cage. That's a smart idea, but maybe an alternative version with the ABL on the right side (a real bit ahead so you don't hit the 2 screws on the tensioner) would be better to reduce the wasted distance.

The internal hole for the ABL is oversized, it could be a little smaller.
The biggest issue that make this mount unusable is the hole for the left screw of the carriage for the wheel is missing so it won't touch the carriage. I drilled it to make it fit.
The other problem here is the ABL mount is WAY too high. The head of the ABL should be around 2mm higher than the nozzle, whereas with this mount, even at the max extension, it is around 5 mm. You should modifiy this and put the abl arm as low as you can.

About the fan adapter, the holes are too much on the margin that even though I tried to print it with a 0.4 line width and 0.12 layer height, the margins are completely skipped.

The fan holder.stl is corrupted and gives issues when sliced (wrong geometries). I fixed it just loading and saving it again it using 3d builder, and it slices good now. But still, even this model had problems with missing margins where the fan screws should fit, so this should be corrected too.

About the mount where the part cooling fans are attached, there is an issue with the nyloc nut slot dimension. The holes are so large that screwing the screw in the nut is impossible as the nut will just rotate. So the lenght of the hole should be lower than the hexagon external diameter, and just a bit bigger than the distance between 2 parallel faces on the nut, so it just slides in without spinning.
This also applies to the nut holes for the adjusting screw.

I will have some time today for those issues, expect some updates tonight or tomorrow morning.

I wanted to ask, did you fix the holes, not only on the 5015 fan sides, but also where the nut should fit on the radiator holder and rotary holder? Since I wasn't able to screw the screws in it as the nuts did just rotate freely and I couldn't block it due to how it's supposed to be assembled, and the holes didn't just fit m4 nuts just like the 5015 side holes didn't fit m3 nuts.
About the 2x heatsink fan adapter for 40x40 fans on the front, I noticed the holes seem to be M4, but all the fans I have have m3 holes.

I will recheck them today after work, I will send you another message when they are ready.

I noticed that you say that the distance between the hotend tips (nozzles?) is 30mm. That is confusing (and wrong), as that is the offset of the first nozzle from the X, while the distance between the nozzles is 23mm like you wrote on the instructable sites.
I'd also suggest deleting the basic and 1mm lower versions to avoid confusion to users. As of my try it hits the back extruder bars 2 mm before the bed, and you still want a bit of distance, so I'd say just keep the 3mm variant to accomodate all the users.

As said the most important thing: if you didn't change the nut holes on the back of the various holders, it is important to do it as it hardy even screws without a ton of superglue.
I noticed that the adjustment nut hole on the sides is too tight and when inserting the nut it cracked.
It would be a welcome change if the sides where the 5015 fans and the new style abl holder are attached had the holes (the ones wehere you put the nuts, but I'm referring to the horizontal holes that make the screw fit) would continue a bit inside the body, so longer screws would fit without ending inside the nut.
Last but not least, even tightening the adjustment screw all the way in, the left nozzle is still higher than the right one. So it is possible to untighten the screw and make the right nozzle lower, but in my case there is no way to make the left nozzle lower.
Thanks for the work, I can't wait to see the next project. :)

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What about an EZABL support?

Hey there,

I have built this, but am seeing play in the adjustment screw while printing. How are you securing the nozzle level when tuned?

This could be as simple as driving the rightmost screw through the mount (or even through a drilled hole with thin nut behind the mount) but i wanted to try to figure out how you were doing it.

Thanks so much in advance for your time!


Sitting here with a test print and a box of supplies, I did find a workaround for the short term I think..

  1. Use square m3 nut as recommended in diagram or CAREFULLY superglue a hex nut
  2. Jam two m3 washers to pick up the slack where the bolt head is (one on bolt threads,, tighten dowm heavily, then one above the bolt head)
  3. There's now enough room between top washer and bolt head to sneak an Allen wrench in to adjust
    this allows for zero play..

down the line a model change might resolve it without the workaround but I think I will be able to make this work now..

Your issue is you're using m3 screws, while the mount is for m4 screws on some parts, that included.

Yeah that does make sense. I did use m3 because I broke parts trying to get an m4 into the extruder aduster.

Thanks for all your help working on this with the author. Every bit helps!

Yeah. Thingiverse is a nice place because people can suggest and help each other. :)

I took an M4 hex nut, heated it up with pliers, and melted it into the carriage. I did the same thing with a 'cheese head' screw for the top part. I turned it while it was still warm, and it basically melted in a perfect circle in the top part. No slop.

I'm tempted to remix the part that mounts on the carriage with heatsets though; for whatever reason my M3 and M4 bolts seem to be slightly smaller than the ones Jaimefriasjr modeled. Still, it's working now!

    == John ==
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Where do I have to set the offset here?

define HOTEND_OFFSET_X {0.0, 22.79} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis

define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

If you want to modify the location for the second hotend x-axis then you change 22.79 to what ever number you want.

Why its not on the middle? it's not possible to center this mounting ?
This mounting is not balanced and the engine has a harder job

The stock hotend is not in the middle. I need it to put the E0 in the extract place as the stock in order to prevent ore modifications. I can put it in the middle and let you deal with X-limit switch and the marlin script.

I personally think it is perfect the way it is, and saves a lot of offset work as a result.

One number to calibrate, that's it.

Other extruder projects do it the way you do as well.

Could you list all the screws and nuts needed please?

If i put an olsson ruby nozzle in the left extruder and the hardened steel nozzle in the right one do i have to change some settings or this is not possible? If it's possible, can u please tell me how to set everything up to make It work? Thanks! :)

Do you see any chance to add a mount for Piezo-elements for BedLeveling?

BTW: Great Job, already printed and mounted it....Just waiting for my Rampsboard from China to finaly use the 2nd Nozzle :D

Hi, from where you got the second Nema17 extruder mount or is printed, for my old eyes looks like metal..
Link please?

EDIT Nevermind found a bunch on aliexpress..

nice job! And the tutorial is awesome. But the one thing I'm struggling with: Where/how do you mount the second extruder motor?

probably the worst place to ask but question about the webcam. What did you install to make it work with octoprint mine doesn't stream. i have the exact same model as yours.

There is no need to install anything extra, but it seems after the last update, I been having some problem with my camera too. My solution, I have try every single port in the raspberry pi until one of them works. Is a bug with the update that octopi did , I hope they fix it soon.

No, they are meant for the e3d v6. I will upgrade to v6 instead of buying another stock hotend. The v6 is more reliable and you can upgrade to volcano in the future.

Do you have any pictures of how you mounted the board..? :)

Here is the way I put mine. Unfortunate there is not a best way to mount the board, I made a hole at the side so I could connect the USB. The only thing you need to make sure is to remove all the metal pins that were holding the old motherboard and print a base for the new motherboard.

P.S. the board you see in the picture is a Rumba, I'm just trying different boards and this is the lastest modification I have done.

Do you have any guidance to mounting your second extruder on your gantry? I am falling short on brackets and want to make sure I am not missing something before I dive into designing something myself. Thank you in advance!

Here is a fast video showing how I put it together:


I see the left air scoop, but I don't see the .stl for the right scoop. Am I missing something?

Yea, any slicer program allows you to mirror the obj. Just Google how to mirror object with (Cura or simplify 3D). I will add the mirror tonight in order to remove the hassle.

Thanks! Didn't realize it was just a mirror.

What is the best type of filament to print these parts. Thank you for sharing !!!

I been using ABS, I like to use it mostly because I can do an acetone bath for a few seconds and it will be strong as a rock. The other option is PETG. PLA tends to deform with time when you apply a small amount of heat for an extended time.

I found even the silicone sock would deform PLA over time. The holder is fine, but there's a square around the bottom of the outmost holder (the one with the fan connections). And not that much time. (I was having adhesion problems with PetG, but bought a PEI sheet and that fixed that!)

I want to upgrade my CR-10 into this dual extruder version, however, if there are any chance and location that's good to fit in a BLtouch? As a super lazy person, I really need an auto-leveling prob.

You can basically put it next to the fan as this person did. I got my idea from here and modify it for two extruders.

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL
by chito

i saw now the module for the bltouch... good! is it the last one of the picture gallery r8? i mean, the one with bltouch mount on left fan mount?
do u have any info on how to modify the board to make it accept the bltouch and it's features on this?

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I look at the v2.1 board that you are talking about. yes it will work but you need to change the offset of the second extruder in the marlin firmware in order to work.

I would need more information about the board, the version # isnot enough. The only reason I choose this boards is the mistakes and knowledge I have with them, besides the Marlin files are made for this two boards that I link.

Great work.
I really like the idea of height adjustment with the screw. Had a similar idea but did not yet implement it.
I consider adding a similar solution for my magnet mount remix of the heavy duty mount


CR-10 magnet mount for e3d, volcano, cr-10 stock, remix of heavy duty, MGN12
by faboaic

I'm glad it was useful, I like where you are heading.

I love the design, but have a few questions, sorry about it but I'm pretty new to 3D printing.
1) Are the other parts shown on the drawing that are not printed, do I buy them or are they from the original CR10 extruder?
2) Where can I find the complete process to complete this upgrade? Like electronics, software, etc?

Thank you!

I made a rough tutorial if you want to check it out.

Sure, I'm almost done with the tutorial for this upgrade, is taking a little of time to make the tutorial, but I promise I will upload the link when is done. Hopefully is going to be done by next week.

I like the design. I am looking for something I can run PVA with my CR 10 S. I noticed the loss of width assume "X-axis" Was wondering if you have tried heads on the front to back I.E Balancing the nozzle(s) on the y axis gantry so you don't lose the width. I am not a very good designer. But thinking it would balance on the gantry rail better and not lose any width travel if that makes sense?

Yes, I been working in that problem, but I didn't have any time before to fix it. But I will have some time this coming week, so stay tuned.

hey! very cool! how is this working for you? i haven't printed it yet because i'm still upgrading my electronics, but i was planning to find a way for two v6 hotends! nice work! i'd love to see a video of it in action if you find the time, showing the travel distance, the leveling procedure and maybe both hotends extruding a nice first layer. have you made any changes since posting this? anyway, i'll try it out in teh next few weeks and will post a 'made'. thank you so much!

Will do, I'm hoping to add some updates next week and some new tutorial videos.

Love the idea of the screw to adjust the height of the second nozzle, I'm considering a CR10s or s4 as my next printer and my Replicator clone has made me sort of hate leveling nozzles LOL

Great job!

Thank you for your thoughts.