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orcinus

Vibration a.k.a. ripple a.k.a. shadow a.k.a. ghosting test

by orcinus Mar 21, 2014
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This is a great model, thanks for sharing.
I will admit, like others it not intuitive and I had to think about the orientation for a few minutes.
Thanks for explaining that part and pointing it out, its very helpful to stop and think about it.
I've printed this so many times on all my printers. Very good check after adjusting the eccentric nuts.

Hello, Thank you very much for providing this STL.

I have printed it and it seems I have a few issues.
Hopefully there are some settings or adjustments to make it print like it used too!

I would appreciate any help at all.

Many thanks,

Hello,
Thank you for this stl.
I printed it on its default orientation, as the stl comes. The results showed a stronger ghost effect on the X face of the cube whereas the Y is very lightly visible.

What does it means this result? I'm I having ghost effects on the axis of the extruder, I mean, the axis where the extruder moves, or is it on the bed axis (the axis where the bed moves)?

How can I solve this ghost in X face of the cube?

Thank you.

Can you update your cube so that it shows....

-Y letter facing the X axis (ie facing us looking at it)
and X facing the Y axis on the right side?

This will let us see the Y and X as it is printing.

Currently Y letter is facing the back, which means we can't see it while it is printing.

Just an add on to that idea is to create two cubes with same Y facing us on both cubes

but
cube 1, X is on the left facing Y
cube 2, X is on the right facing Y

The reason for this is because depending where they placed their printers
the left or right side might be easier to view X

That's nothing a rotate and mirror can't solve in your slicer.

You should put XYZ Calibration Cube in the title, I couldn't retrieve it through the search... I forgot what it was called like. Nice design, and helpfull !

Only X and Y here.
No Z.

there's another cube on thingiverse that does XYZ.

I’ve never heard of ripple/vibration/ghosting issues on Z.
I don’t think that’s even feasible, Z axis moves slowly and rarely.

What exactly is the point of having a Z axis vibration test?

Comments deleted.

I think it is about having a smooth top layer.
If there is ghosting then that means it will not look nice.

So ghosting of X axis will show up on the cube side facing Y axis,
and that is why you rotated the X face to be parallel to the Y axis?
And vice versa...

Can you explain ghosting shows up on the face that is perpendicular to that axis?

just reading your description of the hotter the filament the more vibration artifacts helped me IMMENSELY...thank you!!

i was printing at 228C wondering why it looked terrible
now at 215C it looks awesome

These tips have helped me a lot.
Thank you Orcinus.

i am STILL struggling like hell; to get good prints.. im getting vertical ripples and ghosting. i have asjusted my jerk, accel, belt tension, isolated my printer on a pad and am not about to instal glass fiber reinforced belts with a idler pullys that have 16 teeth... Please. if anyone knows good settings for the ANet a6 OR A8 let me know... this is wearing me out.

hi may i know how you change the acceleration and jerk ?>?

Either in your firmware source (configuration.h in marlin and repetier), or via eeprom settings in your host app (if it has them), or on the machine itself, if it has an LCD.

You're gonna have to anchor and brace your frame. The acrylic frame is just too flexible in every direction to eliminate the rippling. My A8 has aluminum angle stock bracing the verticals and front & rear plates, and is anchored to a thick MDS board. It helps.

I saw somewhere (don't remember where) that stated vibrations in X axis will be visible on Y axis face of this print, and vibrations in Y axis will be visible on X axis face of print. Can someone please confirm this is true? Right now I just need to find out which axis I need to look at, I have ghosting on the X axis face, but I also have some vertical ringing which is making the vertical surface faces on all sides of my prints rough (they where smoother before I did my Y axis extension (Duplicator i3). I'm printing PLA at 30mm/sec, 205c Extruder, 60c Bed, Acceleration (X and Y) set at 800, and Jerk at 8. I can provide other settings if needed, anyone got any advice? Thanks in advance

Apparently the Y axis should have a tensioner? I found one laying on the table after my Y axis extension and thought it had fell off the X axis, so that is where I put it, Im thinking this might be contributing to some of my issue, will move when I get a chance and report back, still curious about above though.

Vibration on the Y axis will be visible on the X side of the block, while vibration on the X axis will be visible on the Y side of the block.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/firmware-settings/

Thank you for this, real easy way to see which axis I need to adjust.

Also weight of your x axis can really effect your x axis ghosting at fast printing speeds because tbe weight shifts past its zero at speed, truly get good speeds is lighten the x

ionno, i prefer speed AND no ghosting. I did the belt twist mod from nophead and ghosting has been a thing of the past at 80-100mm/sec

Belt twisting has nothing to do with ghosting. What you're talking about is the vertical ribbing caused by thr belt teeth rubbing against the edge of your pulley and is easily fixed by the forementioned mod or just aligning the belt path.

Really good tips, thanks!

  1. ??? = Collect underpants.

I'm also interested! What printer are you using and what did you do to get such a dramatic improvement?

There was no single thing. There are tons of little changes that contribute to reducing the vibration. For starters, knock off your acceleration and speed. Everyone keeps lusting for speed when there is no reason to - you're not producing parts en masse in a factory, there's absolutely no point in going over 50 mm/s. Don't reduce the acceleration too much or you'll start getting blobbing, but anything above the values required to avoid that is unneccessary.

Tweak the belt tension. High tension = precision and vibration. Low tension = increased positional error, but decrease vibration. Find a happy compromise between the two. Add gaskets between the steppers and whatever you're mounting them on. Depending on your linear motion system, increase the friction. Your steppers will heat up more and require more current, but the friction will dampen the vibration greatly. Isolate the extruder with cork or adhesive gel tape. Add feet to your machine, but make them layered - layer of foam, layer of gel, layer of cork. The objective isn't to make your bot immovable, but to make it wobble on the feet, as that will absorb the vibration.

Again, lots of little things. Also, bear in mind they'll be short lived. Most of the improvements i've made 9 months ago have seemingly evaporated - the belt tension changed over time, the layers of padding compressed, etc. The only "permanent" tweak is reduction in speed and acceleration.

Final note: the more rigid your machine is, the more vibration you'll get. I'm using an ORD Bot, which is as rigid as it gets. There are no plastic parts connecting the metal ones - whole machine is one big bell. You can feel the Y stepper vibration in the X gantry quite clearly, as there are no transitions between materials to soak the vibration up. Rule number one in isolating anything is - the more transitions, the better. Also, the more rigid the machine, the higher the resonant frequency.

So would Z braces result in increase vibrations?

Which firmware are you using? .e.g marlin etc?

What are your acceleration and jerk values?
So you own an ORD bot to print those two cubes in your front page?
The one on the left looks perfect.

Not sure what ”Z braces” are, but if they’re something that attaches a moving bed to the Y axis, then yes, they could possibly cause the bed to swing somewhat and exhibit ghosting on the prints in the Y axis.

I don’t remember which firmware i was using at the time (2014.). Either repetier or marlin.
Same goes for acceleration and jerk. The values would be meaningless anyhow, as they’re highly dependent on the machine.

I used to own a modified ORD bot, yeah, and those were printed with it.

This is a Z brace
Front
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948

Rear
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2391089

According to the creator it is suppose to give you better prints.

I understand the printers are different, but can you still tell me what jerk and acceleration values you used?

Z braces for Wanhao Duplicator i3, Cocoon Create, Maker Select, and Malyan M150 i3 3D printers.
by AzzA
SWD2 KIT Z-AXIS REAR MOUNT FOR WANHAO DUPLICATOR I3 / MONOPRICE MAKER SELECT

Thanks for these tips!!!
Another way to improve prints is at design level, rounding shapes as much as possible on intersections. Solidworks allows to do that very easily. More difficult with OpenSCAD...

That's true. Fillets help a great deal. Unfortunately they don't help with cases such as organics, sculptures, high res scans etc.

+1 to the comments regarding speed. I was caught up in that game for awhile when I first got my printer. Eventually my buddy said "why do you need to print fast?" Now I usually print around 35mm/sec.

when you say 35mm/s, do you mean outside perimeters at 35mm/s? Because 35mm/s is meaningless when it comes to slicers like Cura where they have a Main Print speed, but all actual speeds (Infill, perimeters, top and bottoms, etc) are calculated from the Main Speed.
So assuming this is the case with your posted speed of 35mm/s, in cura that really translates to a visible perimeter speed of only 17.5mm/s.
This is indeed pretty slow.

Is that the case for you?

What params can be adjusted to reduce such artifacts?

See my reply above.