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E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling

by thed0ct0r Jan 25, 2018
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What is the offset between the top connector of the v6 and the back of the 5015 bracket? I'm hoping this will fit on a Titan extruder.

Hi, thed0ct0r. Thank you for great design. Dont you think it would be useful to use two holes for screws in 30mm fan clip for mounting on radiator instead of one?


I have been using your design for a while and the ony flaw i keep have an issue with is the hole in the side of "30mm_clip_with_venturi_v350-_rotated"
The clip keeps breaking for me after a while.
I have printet it mutiple times, both in different PLA and PETG.

Could you please make one without???

hi, sorry to hear you are having problems. it is not something i have encountered before. especially with petg - during testing it was hard to break with a hand.

i can think of a few different issues (or even some combined) that would cause this problem, just a few examples:

  • low quality material
  • too low printing temps
  • cooling set too high
  • too little perimeters
  • too little infill
  • z height issues
  • over tightening of the attachment screw
  • 30mm fan is not strong enough, which results in too much heat in that area
  • clone e3d v6 has too different a diameter compared to the original
  • etc..

could you post a photo of your failed printed part, especially where it failed, and your print settings - so i can try and help you resolve the issue?

low quality material: 3D prima PETG Select series
too low printing temps: 235°C
cooling set too high: tested 0 to 10%
too little perimeters: 5 walls
too little infill: 50% Cubic
z height issues: No
over tightening of the attachment screw: Could be that
30mm fan is not strong enough, which results in too much heat in that area: Due to my setup, using a 5015 to cool hot end, with a resistor
clone e3d v6 has too different a diameter compared to the original: I'm only using original ;)

I'll try and get a picture tonight, but I always break on the side with the rectangular hole...

that's some good info - thanks. i'd really have to see pictures of the break itself and the printed parts to get a better idea of what is going on.
could you also show how your setup looks with the 5015 cooling the hotend instead of a 30mm radial? maybe the way you hook it up causes a stress somewhere that can be accounted for.

also, one last question i can think of - when does it break? when you clip it on, during normal use, or when you tighten the bolt? also - if during normal use, how long does it take to break?

sorry, i know it's really hard to take these kind of photos - they are just not focused enough in the break area, so it's kinda hard to see what's going on. i've zoomed in as much as possible and looked from all angles. it looks like it might be a layer binding issue, maybe due to underextrusion (i think i see some gaps between lines in some places).
if you could post more focused pictures i'd be able to give a more precise opinion.

assuming there is no problem with the filament or the print itself, i can only account this to over-tightening of the bolt. i'd try to use the least amount of force possible. it's not going anywhere since i've add the clipping pins on the radius.
i could also thicken that side of the wall for you (or if you have any cad software you can just use the .step file and "pull" it by ~1mm) - it would probably have little affect on the wind flow and would give you more perimeters for added strength in that region. since it looks like a 8200 setup (static print head unless i'm mistaken), it shouldn't pose any weight or imbalance issues.

This particular part might be layer adhesion that's the problem.
But it's always the same spot that I breaks.
And with 2 different printers and 2 different plastics and a number of different settings
I hoped to get 1 that could hold up???
If you could post the fusion file I could alter it myself, I'm just not good enough to do it with .step files.
Why have you designed it with the hole anyway???

you might want to read the thing description, i go into a lot of detail explaining the design and the tested results (scroll to the bottom).
the fusion file will be uploaded once the migration from onshape is done. meanwhile - you can get an older version (without the venturi tunnel) from there (link in the thing description) or even modify the newer one to fit your desires.

I'll get some photos for you :)
The 5015 is mounted on an adapter that fits the 30x30 fan holes.
I can't really imagine that it does it...
My setup is A LOT more quiet than a 30x30 fan :)

It has happen that it snaps when I screw it in. Newer when first pushing it on.
Often after some weeks or months of normal use.

Is there a 45degree shroud/mount that will work with this for the newer MK3 fan shrouds?

short answer is i need to check - there used to be a printable adapter that would connect a "regular" 5015 mount to the new shroud. might fit, and if not i might make one (or just a plate).
long answer is i when prusa released their new 45degree shroud, i tested it and for me (personally, for my setup) it performed pretty much on par with their original. a little improvement maybe. but i could still only print overhangs of ~55-60degrees with it (with mine i can print 70degrees easily, as shown in older photos).
i think it might have to do with the specific blower fan model they are using. it seems to have a pretty low pressure/cfm profile, because they set it to pretty high percentage - where i almost never have mine blowing above 40-50%

What blower fan are you running?

mine is the cheapest 12v one i could find ~3.5 years ago on aliexpress, i checked my history and the item is a dead link now (store appears to be closed), so i can't link to it.
says on the sticker it's made by GDT and is 0.18A (measured ~0.2A). iirc it was supposed to be ~7500rpm (relatively quiet ~18-20db) and i have no idea about CFM.

what are you using?

Do you have a fan shroud for the Volcano? Thanks!

i'll post a test part over the next few days. i don't own a volcano hotend (only a regular e3d-v6), so i can't test it myself. let me know if you are willing to test it.

Sure thing! Thank you.

cool, i'll try and work on it tomorrow. is it an original from e3d? or a chinese clone? asking so i know if i can use the specifications published by e3d, or if it's a chinese clone i'll probably need the link you bought it from (they usually provide measurements), or if you have a caliper handy - you can provide those.

I have the E3d original.

great, i've downloaded the spec pdf's and a few mockup models to play with. hopefully i can solve all the mounting holes easily - will let you know tomorrow.

quick update - need to work out a few more kinks, hopefully i can have a test model tomorrow.

i've uploaded a test version, i have not yet had time to test print it - i'd be happy if you can report back results so i can make it final or fix what needs fixing.
since an upper nut for the 5015 cannot be attached from the back side, i've included an embedded hole for an m3 nut, there is a thin wall (0.2mm) above it, so it can be bridged and then the rest of the hole is printed.

the link to the bracket is here - https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6275718

I added new fan for this project .A better cooling one.

Improved nozzle fan duct for E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling
by midelic

i guess it's pretty much dependent on your setup. i tested this kind of a cooler on older models - and for me performance was way worse, especially considering there is no front outlet for air. i guess it pretty much depends on the 5015 blower you are using, since people are having different results with different designs. what 5015 model are you using?
do you have a comparison of an overhang tower like i originally did? would be very interesting to see the results and try to understand what can be improved for a more "universal design"

btw - your print looks pretty good, would be nice if you could post a "make" :)

Comments deleted.

Would you mind adding the STEP or F3D file for the BLTouch adapter? Thanks!

i've posted a .step file for bl-touch mount, i have refrained from doing so because it is still a "test piece" as far as i am concerned. the guy who asked for it never reported back saying if it was any good. i would appreciate it if you could give feedback (and maybe post a make so i know how it turns out).
i still need to port it to fusion360. i have been away for a while - and so was not able to complete the transfer of the design to fusion360. it is on my todo list for next week.

btw - the original design is still on onshape (i have not removed it yet, until the transfer is complete), so you can pretty easily get any version of it from there.

Hey, you're back! I've been running the BLTouch mount for a couple months now and it's been working great. I did not see that mount on the OnShape project which I why I asked here. I'll have to post a make soon.

good to know, would you say it is stiff enough? any chance you can post a video with your make? i'd like to see it in action to make sure there's nothing i'd improve (especially rigidity-wise).
you probably missed it because it's a different onshape project in the same folder - here's the direct link https://cad.onshape.com/documents/bf3e5dc8f0890c4d3291393c/w/a11c8b4a53e267b1d11d1c28/e/8c3fdddd8dc28e9eac7e761d
but if you just want the .step file - i've added it in the "thing files" section of this thingi.

Also, any plans on making a 270° ring, or even a full ring duct? I'm noticing, while looking at the STL, that there would be theoretical asymmetrical cooling issues.

i haven't planned on making a 270 or 360 ring. tbh - all the designs i have tried (and as my original post states - i have tried a lot of them), have been inferior in performance and require more plastic/time to print and take up more space - creating other mounting problems.
however - i am always open to debate on the subject, especially if it can be backed up by experimenting and data.
also, could you point me to where the is an asymmetry in the design - i would like to fix it, if possible.

Is there a mount that is compatible with this and also has 45mm rod spacing, center to center? I run a Monoprice Maker Select and I tried to put it onto my current mount, but the top of the fan doesn't clear the mount. Also, the small bump behind the fan interferes with the block as well.

sorry it has taken me this long to answer, i have been away for a while.
can you please post a picture of your setup with the problem showing? i'm not 100% sure i understand the problem correctly.

Any plans on making SN04 sensor mount variant?

if you are willing to test it, sure - not a problem. i don't use any sensors myself (the bed is trammed with a micrometer depth gauge), so i won't be able to test it. please let me know - and if so, i'll post one.

I have a better fan duct for this setup.Much much better cooling than 3.4 or 3.5L3.If somebody interested let me know.I hesitated to make an official post here because is a modified version from a duct version for prusa posted here that not allow remixes.I tested it on small square and round surfaces and kept integrity much better compared with previous ones.

Yeah, let's see it

Improved nozzle fan duct for E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling
by midelic

If you have something - post it. Im planing on making a review of popular E3D V6 fan shrouds.

Improved nozzle fan duct for E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling
by midelic

Works perfectly,
Wanhao I3 mini (left version installed)

very cool! thanks for letting me know.
would you mind posting a "make" so other people with your type of printer can see how it fits?

Can you have a modified version that works with the E3D Volcano?

I did a remix of thed0ct0r's design to use a 45 degree fan, which is adjustable in height over the range of the V6 and the Volcano. Have been using it for about a week now with good success. If you want an adjustable version --

Adjustable E3D V6 impr. fan adapter and modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling
by bwaslo

yes - i'll try and draw something up, if i can find some measurements or a step model of the heatblock and nozzle, but since i don't own a volcano myself i can't be sure of any of the measurements. it should only be the attached part that changes, so you might have to give me some feedback and help testing for the fitting of the model. would you be up for that?

Absolutely, I would love to!!! as FYI, the heat break and all should be identical to E3Dv6, the heatblock just has a different dimension and extends 8.5mm lower than the standard heat block https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/c/Volcano

i'm sorry it has taken this long - due to unexpected circumstances, i had to be away for a while. let me know if this is still relevant for you (and you are still willing to test it out) and i'll post a model for you to try tomorrow.

I would absolutely like to try one out - I've been trying a number of fan variations, and would like to add this type as well.

great, hopefully i'll have something today. if not - then tomorrow for sure.
just to make sure, in e3d's documentation i can see that the difference is quoted as 8.7mm (and 8.6mm if you compare assemblies), and you quoted 8.5mm - i'd like to make sure i get the difference correctly, since 0.1mm makes a big difference in my experience.

are you using the latest thermistor cartridge version? can you specify where you saw the 8.5mm difference?

I was going by some of E3D's doc - so i'd trust the 8.7mm more than my attempt. I am using the latest thermistor cartridge version.

ah, cool then - their documents actually state 2 contradicting numbers. one is the difference between total heights (71mm vs. 62.3mm = 8.7mm), the other is the difference between throat and block + nozzle heights from the bottom of the heatsink (28.1mm vs. 19.5mm = 8.6mm).
i'm using the 8.6mm as a reference point, need to work out a few more kinks, and hopefully will have a test model tomorrow.

i've uploaded a test version, i have not yet had time to test print it - i'd be happy if you can report back results so i can make it final or fix what needs fixing.
since an upper nut for the 5015 cannot be attached from the back side, i've included an embedded hole for an m3 nut, there is a thin wall (0.2mm) above it, so it can be bridged and then the rest of the hole is printed.

the link to the bracket is here - https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6275718

I feel a bit silly asking this, but how I mount the 5015 part on the 30mm fan mount?
I printer all parts on 0.2 later heights with a lot of walls for strength, but now I can't seem to figure out how to combine the two parts... Do I just need to use physical strength? Weaker parts?
See attached images for my print quality...

no need to feel silly - i really should make a video of it. just can't find the time - and i have no knowledge when it comes to video recording/editing.

as for your problem - i've attached an image that shows which tab goes where, you put the bottom one it's slot first and then push the top one into place - it should make a "click" when it snaps into place... it should not break.
if it's too difficult or it breaks then it is an extrusion problem.
it should work ok - but i do see some problems in your image. it looks like your extrusion multiplier / e-steps might not be calibrated properly. how did you calibrate it?
let me know how it works out, and if you encounter problems - i'll do my best to help.

I finally managed to put it together using a plier.

Regarding the extrusion issues mentioned, does it look like over or under extrusion?

I've had issues with perimeters printing properly at top leyers (see attached) so I tried increasing the extrusion amount by 3% in an effort to resolve it.

Previously, I calibrated my e-steps/mm using the 10/14mm ratio formula....

yeah i noticed that, as well as some other issues in your picture.
to start off - this guy has a pretty good article on how you should be calibrating e-steps and extrusion multiplier (it's very similar to what i do): https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

after you get those right - your problems might disappear, but still - which slicer are you using? there are a lot of different settings in slicers that can still ruin a print on a perfectly calibrated machine.

Holy moly! You were right, it turns out my extruder was about 5% off, new value is increased by at least 20 steps!

That guide was very helpful, thank you so much.

As for the slicer, I'm using cura.

Hey, just stumbled upon this and very keen to give it a go :) I'm using a 40mm fan for the hotend cooling (it's sooooo much quieter). I'm just wondering how much using an adapter (like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1759396) is likely to disrupt airflow. Any thoughts?

40mm to 30mm Fan Adapter
by Galane

Apologies I didn't notice you'd already addressed this issue below. Leaving comment here for future posters. Earlier comment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2769783/comments/#comment-1761299 (can't work out out to post it as a link without everything after the # being ignored).

E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling

Hi, I found a "bug" clamps don't fit where they should. Please look at photo. I double checked and I printed correct parts.

you are right. it seems to be off by 4.5mm - i must have miscalculated the mirror tool plane, sorry about that.
i have re-uploaded new files for both versions (normal, and 2mm lower) - they should be labeled v1.21.
please let me know if there are any more issues (there shouldn't be any - i tested the renderings from all sides again, but i am only human...).

would love to see how it turns out on your printer, i think i have a very similar red petg.

Thanks, here is pre-assembled version. I'm still waiting for good quality fans, they will be next month. Than I will upload "make" ;). I printed it with Devil Design Ruby Transparent PETG .

looks very good, i trust the clip on fits well?
which fans did you end up buying?

hmmm, about clips, I'm not sure if it;s a problem of my printer tolerance but distance between clips should be a little bit wider(?) but never the less it hold well. I want to use Sunon blower MF50151VX-A99. It is highly recommended by local community. Also 30x30 will be from Sunon.

sorry - i missed your reply. can you explain further regarding the distance between clips issue? it's supposed to be a very tight fit, so it holds well and cannot disconnect during a print, but i'd be happy to know if there are any tolerance issues that need to be corrected.

sunon fans are very good, i used to use them in some of my old servers. they were pretty quiet and moved a lot of air.

Hi, sorry for delay, now I have my sunons :) Ok, I tried to show my problem on photos. When I snap it together there some bend is visible, so it cause that fanduct is not "parallel" to smaller fan.

Ok, I've made some manual "tweaking" and now it's fit :)

i have not yet had a chance to print the left-handed version (hopefully next week). but it shouldn't be a different fitting to any of the other versions (as it is just mirrored and not designed from scratch).
i have printed all the parts in pla, abs, petg, nylon and polycarbonate - and even mixing parts from materials, i have never had a fitting problem (i can add some more pictures if it will help you see how the fitting should be).

looking at the pictures you added, it seems as though the fan/hotend holder is "too big" for the blower plate, which causes it to bend.
i assume you took a file to it in order to make it fit, but to me - this looks like an over-extrusion issue. it might not be, i'm not throwing the blame at you - but in order to get perfect parts (i print a lot of mechanical stuff that needs to be very exact) i calibrate extrusion by printing a cube in vase mode (it's more of a rectangular box with 1 side round, but the idea is the same), and set extrusion width to 0.45mm.
after the print is done, i measure with a caliper the width of every single wall. average it out, and then set my extrusion multiplier accordingly.
i know a lot of people do it by extruding 100mm and measuring that 100mm is extruded.
due to many pressure changes and the molten plastic coming out of the nozzle being a non-newtonian fluid (which suffers from die swell / barus effect), that would probably lead to a wrong extrusion width (most probably is over-extrusion, due to high pressure).
a preferable method is to measure what's coming out of your nozzle in relation to how much you are extrudin, and then set your slicer's extrusion multiplier.

if however, you are sure that your extrusion width is spot on, let me know and we'll try to figure out if there is a tolerance that needs to be increased.

btw - i am now testing a new fan holder with a venturi tube effect and a plate with cable management helper and a new nozzle output duct, so i have parts printed in different materials if you want pictures of the fittings (how it should look).

Thanks for elaborate :) I'm still learning about 3D printing and I expect that I mess something with extrusion with, probably I used to small values, but I will read more about it :)

Also If you could share photos of new fan holder, I will be appreciated :)

not a problem, the whole point is to share knowledge, otherwise - what are we doing here... ;)
if you want to try what i suggested i am attaching the model i use (in vase mode) with 0.45mm extrusion width.

Hi, I have a question, are you able to prepare version with blower on the other side? from pictures I can see that your design is amazing but on my printer there is not so many place to fit it, but I could rotate it about 90 degree when blower will be on the left side.

thanks, i'm sorry - but i'm not sure i understand the change you are asking for. can you add a picture of your printer/space constraints so i can better understand what you mean?

on the second picture you could see how normally it looks like. On first I show part of assembly which I tried to put in my printer. Third will show wanted orientation of hotend cooling fan. So when blower fan will be on the other side it will be possible to fit it to my printer.

Yes, but blower should be shifted, because it's not symmetric and should take air from outside. I should learn Onshape :D

you are right of-course. it was late last night when i was looking at it ;)
is this what you mean -> https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fa9d2c92fc5fa4cfced6d32c/w/724d95ccf4edcc5b3c95359c/e/519a8ae3920756b3dd3048e9
let me know, and i'll export and add it to the thing files as a left-handed version.

You are my hero :D Thanks a lot, this is what I need :)

And I know that it was late at night ;)

no problem :)

would love to know how it turns out and what your results are.
i've updated the thing files to include everything you'll need (hopefully).
also added a 2mm lower plate with a left-handed version (in case your layer cooler turns out to be too high like for some people).
and an improved air spout (v3.41L in the files) which i'd love to get some feedback on (everything is listed in the description).

Thanks a lot. I will order proper fans and probably next week will be some results. I need also to make some changes in my heated bed, but it depends when I will get other stuff. Also I'm making some smoothing PLA tests.

Hey, great design, I'll try it asap. Question though - did you think about using 3015 fan? it moves more air theoreticly.

thanks, post a make if you try it - i'd really like to see how it's turning out for people and if any changes are required...

which fan are you referring to? the hotend cooler (or the layer blower)? i'm using a 30x10mm fan as a hotend cooler on one of my setups, and a 30x20mm fan on another (from an old server case).
while the 30x20mm does move more air (and is therefor louder), i can honestly say it doesn't make much/any difference in printing performance whatsoever (i have not taken any measurements though) in any materials or speeds i have tried.
on the contrary, because it is heavier and oscillates more when blowing air - in faster prints (above 80mm/s) it actually shows more ghosting and vertical lines, so i ordered a few more 30x10mm fans from aliexpress.

your experience might be totally different though. especially if it's a quality fan. i think josef prusa went with a 40mm form factor only because you can't really get a noctua any smaller, and he wanted a quality/quiet unit.
i'd love to see a comparison if you see any improvement.

I really like this design. do you think you could make on that allows for a 12mm inductive probe?

i have posted 2 models you can test, here -https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2769783#comment-1892232

E3D V6 improved fan adapter with modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling

sure, i can probably do a fan attachment like i did for the bl-touch. i don't use a probe myself (bed is trammed using a digital depth gauge) - so i can design it, but you would have to test it and let me know if anything needs fixing/improving. would that work for you?

I would be willing to test and feedback, if you need someone to test the new part.

i'm attaching 2 versions for you to try out:
1st - just a 30mm fan attachment with a mount hole for a 12mm sensor. i made the hole for it 12.3mm so it should allow a range of printers to have some tolerance. it also leaves enough space for using the 2 washers and nuts above and below. the onshape model for this can be found here - https://cad.onshape.com/documents/bf3e5dc8f0890c4d3291393c/w/a11c8b4a53e267b1d11d1c28/e/c3b8fe55534f94eb0d60991d
2nd - pretty much the same but meant for use without the cumbersome bite-washers and nuts (which just add dead-weight. instead it uses a tightening bracket meant for an m3 screw (8-10mm ideal) and an m3 nut. i would use this model if possible as it should also be easier to adjust the height. the onshape model for this can be found here - https://cad.onshape.com/documents/bf3e5dc8f0890c4d3291393c/w/a11c8b4a53e267b1d11d1c28/e/16c32187d6cf93ea3b7f313c

both of these models have the following distances from the center of the nozzle: X - 30.15mm (to the left, when facing the printer) & Y - 25.75mm (to the front, when facing the printer).

again, since i do not have a 12mm proximity sensor available - i cannot test this myself, so please let me know if any adjustments need to be made.

sure thing!
it's been a busy week, so, hopefully i can get it done over the weekend - i'll let you know when it's ready for testing.

Cool design, do you have a photo of it installed?

I have found to get the layer fan at the right height the shroud basically sits tight on the silicon sock - I am yet to heat it up with it like this, but it doesn't seem right to me? I think I may have got something wrong, but I'm not sure what.

I'd be interested in the fang fan mount, but only out of interest - I think the compact design of this one is probable better for my needs.

thanks, i'll try and take some pictures for you in a few hours. kind of hard to do as the printer is working most of the day...
can you take a picture of yours so i can see what you mean?

if you are using e3d's original silicon sock, that might be the cause... to put it simply - the suck ;P they kept coming apart and were too thick.
i switched to using a sock molded from a model i found here on thingiverse, have not had to change it in ~6-7months now. it's top part is thinner (but covers more of the block's upper part so it has a better grab than e3d's).

with my molded sock - i'd say (rough estimate) the shroud is about 1mm above the sock. i printed it in petg and it's been working fine for a few months now (and i have printed materials all the way up to 280C). don't forget that the fan keeps the air moving, so not much heat is actually affecting the shroud.
take into account that this position is kind of part of the point - it's basically aiming air flow at the "exposed" part of the throat, so there is less heat creep and the whole transition zone is "lowered".

another option would be to just modify the blower bracket, you could easily modify the sketch to just "lower" the position of the blower relative to the shroud. it's why i made this an open-source modular system, so different brackets for different solutions and hotends are easy.

p.s: i'll make the fang mount available pretty soon, i just have to find the time to re-make it in onshape (as it was originally made in fusion360). but i highly recommend the one that's prusa's mk3 based. the fang is less balanced and exaggerates vibrations, and covers a relatively small area (focused) so bigger overhangs and bridges are a problem.
don't get me wrong, it's a great design and i used it for a long period of time. but my personal experience has been much better with the prusa mk3 based one.

Thanks for the detailed response!

I worked it out, I'm using a Prometheus system heat break, and it looks like it has a tad more thread than the e3d version. I simply unscrewed the heatbreak from the heater block a full turn and there is plenty of clearance and the nozzle still isn't hard up against the bottom of the block.

Now I have sorted that out, I am loving this design, so much more practical than many others, nice and compact, I was looking for something with a 5015 to do the cooling, but the stock 30mm seems more than adequate with your improved design.

Looking forward to testing out the fan performance with some big overhangs, but on a simple print it did very well.

ah, cool - did not think about the prometheus option, i guess the 3d printing eco system is always bigger than what you imagine :)
good to know it worked out - would be cool if you could post a make.
tbh - i was kinda wandering if anyone from the many downloads has made one.

let me know if you encounter any other issues, i think i'll add a 5015 plate which is 2-3mm lower just in case any other prometheus users want to make this.

Yeah the number of combinations you can get is nuts. And that is using 'genuine' parts, albeit e3d or Prometheus or something else, then you add the clones to the mix and it is insane.

I don't think you need to add another plate - the overall length is the same, it is just I had the block too high up the heatbreak, which meant it was too close to the heat sink/shroud.

I'll post a make - I just want to get the right hardware (currently all my bolts are too long, need a trip the hardware store) and reprint the plate as I broke the snap on clips.

here's the photo (attached, below) - kind of hard to take a photo (holding the ruler with one hand and then the phone with the other), so it maybe a little tilted and squished, but you can see my estimate was right ~1-1.5mm.
i also measured and the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the layer cooling outlets and the vertical distance is ~2.5mm (hard to get the caliper in there precisely, but you can also approximate from the picture). measured distance in the model is ~3mm so that should be right.
this configuration works very well - it is what i printed the overhang demo with, as well as a bunch of other models, but - again, it is only my personal experience (also a few other friends who printed). but, i would love some input and other users experiences - so please let me know how this works out for you, if you can add a picture - that would be great...

Thanks, Once I re-set my heat break in the block, my clearance if pretty close to what you have pictured. Certainly not close enough to warp PETG that will have a fan blowing on it 100% of the time.

Keen to see how your worked in the fang mount, but as stated, I'm happy with the design and performance as it stands!

the fang design is a pretty simple one, a bracket with 4 standoffs 30mm apart from each other (in a square) so it emulates the distance as if a 30mm fan was actually there. that is, unless i go crazy and change it up when i re-model it in onshape :)

could you do a version or 40mm hotend fans? The stock e3d 30mm is way to loud for me.
They also provide much more airflow so cooling is no issue
Maybe with a shroud like this f.e https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

Also you could make a bit tighter so you dont need any screws, but would still be able to slide it onto the hotend from above or below

E3D v6 Hotend - 40mm Fan Duct
by loco

sorry it took me such a long time to reply, i must have missed the notification.

tbh - i don't think a 40mm fan is the right tool for the job in this case. the whole heatsink is 26mm in height so what everyone ends up doing is a cone that causes more back pressure than anything else (i tested a few 30mm and 40mm designs when i was working on this).
the only 40mm version i tested and was more than half decent was the one on the prusa mk3, but that is a HUGE piece of hardware for 0 gain.
my intent in this design was to maximize the usage of airflow of the 30mm fan, and keep the whole thing as light and small as possible.
btw - here's an example of what happens when you hook up too small a cone to a normal fan (not a blower):

regarding the noise - i know what you mean, i also hated the stock e3d fan's noise. i just got the cheapest one i could find off of aliexpress (less than 1$), opened it up and used silicone grease on the shaft and collar (after cleaning it all up with lithium grease). it has been working almost non-stop for over a year and it is inaudible! the same will probably work for the original e3d fan, i don't know since my son destroyed it by sticking a screwdriver in it.

regarding the locking mechanism - it is on purpose, i do not trust a printed tight fit on a metal heatsink. but it's easily changeable in the onshape model as well as the step file (if the original is not tight enough for you).

everyone has different needs, i couldn't find any cooler that had all of my needed criteria - it is a pretty short print which requires very little filament, perhaps you could try it and see if it truly does not meet your needs...

Hi. could it be possible to help add a Bltouch mount like this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742148

E3D V6 cooler with BL Touch

sure, tbh - i think those should be part of the hotend holder or carriage itself - but i can probably add something that fits. since i don't have a bl-touch or one of those sensors i'll try and look if there's any readily available info and measurements for exact placing...

Hi. Any update on the Bltouch version?

sorry, took me a while to find the time to work on this - but i finally did...
i've uploaded 2 mounts - they both attach to the 30mm fan (as can be seen in the image) and they mainly differ in where the strength is because they are printed with a different part being on the z axis.
since i do not own a bl-touch (nor do i know anyone i can borrow from) i cannot test it myself, but i would love to hear your feedback. i would try the T style mount first.

if they pan out i will also release them in .step format (maybe even as a remix, since they can be used independently of the cooler).
as always you can check out the onshape model here - https://cad.onshape.com/documents/bf3e5dc8f0890c4d3291393c/w/a11c8b4a53e267b1d11d1c28/e/25cfe5d7ab6e58242694ffa8

Awesome.... Will test it this weekend and revert. Thanks.

i've added a 3rd option - a horizontal t-mount which should be even easier and stronger to print and is held by 2 horizontal fan screws instead of vertical ones.

Do you have a measurement of what the offset of the probe is to the nozzle based on the CAD measurements?

based on the cad measurements it's 29.5mm on the x axis and 24.5mm on the y axis. ymmv - as i do not own a bl-touch, i cannot verify those numbers, would be great if you could let me know so i can update the documentation.

Thanks, I will validate them when I get the chance to get this printed. Also thanks for sharing an awesome design, this is an elegant effective solution that does not involve massive cooling ducts and fans.

Wow, Thanks... this might help... a bltouch file https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2009118

BLTouch Dummy Model - DesignSpark
by s3rkan

This is great. Isn't said enough. Good work in your research and implementation.

wow, thanks - i really appreciate that! it was published in the hopes of someone else finding it useful :)

Really like the "compactness" of the design. Would be brilliant to have a similar design for dual 5015 :)

thanks, i tried very hard to keep it compact - though i still have a few ideas for improvement, i thought it was time to release it.
regarding the dual 5015 - i tried some of those designs (2x5015), and the results were not as good as what i get with this design. for reference i have added 3 pictures of an early overhang test i did. you can see it gives a perfect 70 degrees overhang with a 0.24mm layer height, at 80mm/s & 3500mm/s^2 acceleration, with 2.5 perimeters (sliced with kisslicer - which has the fractional perimeter feature).
the filament is over a year old, and was printed by mistake at 210C instead of 200C, it still came out pretty near perfect and the single 5015 layer fan in this example was set to ~60% so it's not even full on.

i think this is one of those cased where more, is not necessarily better... though, i would love some feedback if/after you try it out - there's always room for improvement :)