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Miniature Compound Bow

by DonStick3l Jan 21, 2018
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Hi DonStick3l, first of all thank you so much for creating and sharing the design. It is my absolute favorite 3D print even after 3 years in 3D printing a lot of awesome stuff. I am also using Fusion360 for myself to do some projects. Do you see any chance to share the fusion360 files? I would really like to try some modifications and later make a version out of CNCed metal. I would even pay a few € for that beside the TIP you just got. I just want it for my personal fun.

Question on trying to figure out how long the strings need to be?

Hi. How are you? Congratulations !!! Could it be made life size? I practice archery and it can serve me. what material is the rate used ??

I don't think you can make it lifesize on any reasonably sized home 3D printer.
What do you mean by "what material is the rate used"?

It is really nice design, but I have a problem with making cable stay in the idler wheel groove during drawing the bow (see picture). The solution could be making V-groove asymmetric like in some professional compound bows (see 2nd picture).
I have absolutely no idea how to edit stl file, I assume it's a piece of cake for skilled person.

Edit: I've cleaned the groove and it helped, however you can still consider asymmetric groove

I was about to give you this exact advice.
An other maker had the same problem just a couple of days ago and solved it by printing a new idler wheel with better quality.

Nevertheless I slightly adapted the design of the idler wheel on your recommendation. One edge of the groove is no longer perpendicular but under 60 deg angle. This might help but in the original scale also makes the part more fragile.
I have not yet printed nor published the new version but attached the STL. Would you be willing to review it?

I will check and get back with the feedback, however it can take a while since I have to print some other things and buy some skewers to shoot :)

How well would this scale up to 150% maybe 200%?

Scaling up works perfectly and has been done by the community multiple times. I did a 166 % print myself to see how it would affect the power.
HOWEVER keep in mind scaleup has to happen as a multiple of 33.333 % - 133.3 %, 166,7 % , 200 % and so forth.
150 % does NOT work or at least you will have a hard time finding nuts and bolts to fit it. The 100 % model is designed for M3 hardware. So at 133.3 % you get M4, M5 @ 166.7 %, M6 @ 200 % ...
As long as you stick to this increment, the only limitation is the size of your printbed!

Yeah I thought of that after commenting lol, I'm gonna give a try at 100% and see how it comes out and if it ends up nice, 166% is the max I could do sadly. What did you use for the string? I don't see anywhere saying what kind of string or if it matters, whether it be fishing string of embroidery string lol

I tried various types of fishing line and rope to mixed success.
Cotton or wool yard was a complete failure. Nylon/Perlon line kind of works but is very stiff and might jump off the wheels.
Currently I'm using 0.5 mm braided fishing line used for predatory fish. And till now it did not fail a single time.

What lb line would that be? Wanna make sure I don't get too strong or too weak a line even if similar size

Mine is https://www.kastking.com/ Fortis braided fishing line 80 lb and .020 in/0.50 mm diameter - top of the line in the Fortis series. Might be a little overdimensioned for this project though. 50 lb or even less should be fine. Just wanted to be on the safe side for future projects as I'm now stuck with 165 yards of it.
I used it for both the 100 % as well as upscaled version.

Awesome thank you, do you happen to have the upscaled hardware part list? I want to do a 166.67% scaled bow if the 100% comes out good, and so I gotta get a list of that all together, if not I'll do the numbers at a later time. Thank you again <3

Looks like the 'string' should be some kind of cross woven synthetic fiber, just have a look through the pdf's and its all there, (sprinkled around of course). i just finished a build and i am using a proper nylon cross woven string for the short piece, and had to use some normal spun kite line for the longer piece. Seems ok at the moment, just don't 'dry fire' it..

the arrow guide connector should be a bit thicker as it snaps really easily

Hmmm never experienced an arrow guide snapping on me.
Maybe try increasing wall strength/contour count. If this does not help, the layer adhesion of your filament might be a little weak. In this case try rotating the model +90 deg around its y-axis. This way the connector will be printed in th x-y-plane (contours instead of layers). A lot more support material is required though.

Hi ils it possible to print in real size ? how much % and screw m5 maybe?
Thanks a lot

What exactly do you consider "real size" for a compound bow?
M5 equals a 166.7 % print which results in a ~34 cm bow (instead of ~26 cm @ 100 %) which is still more of a toy.
For anything close to a fullsize (80 - 100 cm) compound bow you'd have to go all the way to M8 @ 266.7 % or even M10 @ 333.3 %.
This kind of misses the point of this thing though as it is supposed to be a "toy".

Hi DON, i printed the bow at 166.7% scale, and i have a hard time to fit in the nuts and bolts. i had to drill it to make it fit.... i think a scale of 167% will be better to fit in with M5.

Yeah the problem mainly lies in the standardization of hardware and how it is implemented by the individual manufacturers.
The dimensions of nuts and bolt heads may differ just the slightest bit which renders them unusable for a specific application.

I try to accomodate for this by modelling certain tolerances into my designs. But I only do have local hardware parts as reference. And tolerances for a hexagonal bore/bearing can only be so wide before a smaller nut is not held fimly anymore. It's all about finding a compromise here.
For anything else a bit of mechanical postprocessing is required im afraid (if you do not want to touch on and alter the 3D model).

hey. where can i get those 720mm and 230mm cables?

Im having trouble with the string coming off of the idler wheel when i draw it back and as far as i know, i have the stringing correct. im using 0.78mm braided fishing line. is anyone else having the problem?

Is your bow in 100% scale? In this case 0.78 mm would be on the absolute upper limit of string strength. But braided line should work nevertheless.
Next steps in troubleshooting would be:

  1. Make sure the groove in the idler wheel is perfectly clean. Residues of support material or other imperfections tend to lift the string off the wheel.
  2. Try swapping the idler wheel and cable anchor on their axis, leaving the stringing as is. Had to do it for an upscaled print too actually. The solution is not ideal but this way the angle at which the string leaves the idler wheel is not as steep.

Sorry for the late replay. i checked the idler wheel like you said and realised the idle wheel had a notch in it from a printing error, replacing it solved the problem. cheers for the troubleshoot help, you have made an amazing model and im loving it!

is it supposed to be printed in abs? or would pla be fine?

In my experience (neither do I own nor have I ever printed in ABS) PLA works perfectly fine. The only problematic parts would be the limbs being too bridle. But as far as the experience of other makers goes, PLA does work for them too.

Alright, thanks for the respond!

I love this bow. Can anybody give me the overall dimensions? I have looked but can't find them, maybe I am just missing them.

Overall dimenions assembled and with a bit of pre-tensioning are 265 mm in height, about 40 mm wide and 130 mm in depth (without counter weight rod; 185 mm with it on)

Thank you so much.

do you have a stl. for the quiver?

The quivers are not my original work but fantastic remixes from the community.
You can find them in the "Remixes" tab https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764962/remixes

Miniature Compound Bow

dude!!! this is the best thing ever! im a bowhunter/comp shooter, now i can practice in the house,lol

Just printed one in eSun PLA+ (amazon calls it PLA Pro but same thing).
I didn't use the Aux limbs and already this thing is mental, if something snaps i'm losing an eye for sure XD
The only problem i've got is when i put the 2 crossing lines behind the guard, the angle is pulling the strings outside the guides at ~75% pull and then it jams.
I'm using a generic roll of 1.25mm white nylon multi-strand cord, must be just a bit too big i guess.
If i don't put the 2 strings behind the guard, it shoots great but sometimes the skewers get deviated by those strings.
Oh well, back to finding better cords i guess!

P.S.: I don't think i stringed it wrong, here's a couple of pictures in case:

This is simply brilliant!!!

Thank you for sharing the design. Regarding the string and cable, braided fishing line seems to work great for me (20-30 lbs, it is the same stuff they use to stitch kevlar vests). Of course, it is a little bit challenging to tie knots. Look for how to tie a uni-knot


Created custom arrows for the compound bow. We all know skeurs are not the straightest. We all want to show off are cool toys that we've printed when company shows up or family to see what's new. So I designed arrows and arrowheads that can be screwed on to the arrows. Arrows have small cutouts in the back to glue feathers on. Arrow notched in rear. Enjoy

Arrows also will fit on this arrow holder made by Truglodite.


Miniature Compound Bow Arrows and Arrow Heads

DonStick3.... First of all, amazing design on the bow, been playing around with it and noticed.... The arrow rest appears to be a bit short. Maybe it's possible it's an isloated probelm with my CR10s but I've printed a couple bows and notice same issue where arrow is aiming a bit right. The skeurs are not very straight at times and should not be used for measurement. So I created several arrows with arrow heads and feathers to go with bow but also to have a straight arrow to check arrow rest position.

The red arrow rest is the modified version. The black one is the one I printed from your files.

I increased the arm of the arrow rest approximately 5.2mm give or take providing a perfect lineup in the arrow rest with arrow head facing directly in front. I have taken some photos to demonstrate the differences. I will be uploading the modified arrow rest soon along with arrows and arrow head files. Along with the adjustable sights i've created I also noticed my fletching is no long touching the other strings when resting on arrow rest. Here are the pics I took of pritned arrow resting. I mean no disrespect in your design and again maybe it's an issue with my prints. DonStick3.... Thank you again for this bow, as myself and family will have a lot of fun thanks to your hardwork. I hope you don't mind me bringing up the arrow rest concern. Now I just have to adjust my sights to the new arrow rest and I think I'm set on my part.

DonStick3.... Getting ready to string the bow. I see one string mentioned of 720mm and a second one of 230mm looking at the instructions you've provided. Trying to be as accurate as possible. So are these lengths prior to making the 6mm loops at the end and measuring from one tip of the string to the other before creating the loops or is this distance measured once the loops are created and taking measurements from the end of the loop stretched out to the other end of the loop? When I mean stretched out I'm using solid nylon string that is not stretchable I'm referring to the loops closed and stretched for measurement.

Comments deleted.

DonStick3 I have created a new version of the bow sight. This new version is ADJUSTABLE. You can adjust Windage and Elevation. Files are live and avaialble now. I've created 5 so far and have not had any issues. I recommend people to get Version 2 files which uses an extra M2 screw to secure sight which keeps it level vs the first version which is also included only used one screw and can droop down. I've added a custom ring so people can customize the ring color on the sight to match their bow of what ever they want. Would you be kind enough to share link. I have included yours as well. Enjoy the new sights... I think it gives the bow that added touch.


Miniature Compound Bow ADJUSTABLE Sights

Another question: Has anybody considered using SpiderWire as the bowstring and cable? I'm looking at 100lb test Spiderwire Stealth-braid. I've used this stuff in 15-40lb test for fishing my whole life and its great for that, but im not sure about as a bowstring.

100lb test is .50 mm in diameter.

EDIT: So like Ross75 below said, "...it seemed fine". I put Spiderwire EZBraid 50lb on it and its handling the load just fine and was easy to do some non-slip loop knots on for the ends. It holds up quite well to the draw and is only .38mm diameter so thats well within size limits.

I used fire line, it's the same as spiderwire I believe and it seemed fine. I'm reprinting the riser in abs because the pla one cracked while stringing it

Can I use petg and or abs for all of the parts? I don't have any pla.

question: If I printed a solid tip for the skewers, would it help improve the accuracy rather than trying to put a needle in them?

Not quite sure. Density of most filament polymers is pretty low so it might not stabilize the arrow the same way a metal needle does. To be honest i have not experimented with printed tips extensively. The ones I tried were shredded on the first hard impact so I returned to using needles.
Please let me know should you find a suitable design!

I was thinking of using PLA and doing a bodkin design then annealing it. I figure that would provide the necessary strength but I will test to make sure.

If PLA doesnt work, I'll use annealed PETG.

Made sights for your Compound Bow.

Thank you DonStick3 for the files on the bow.... love what you've done with this bow !!! Haven't played with it yet as I still need to string it, but I've added a quiver that holds Skuers that Truglodite designed and I just made some sights for it. Currently designing arrow heads and fletching for the skuers. I'll update once they are done.

Miniature Compound Bow FIXED Sights

what do you need to keep it all in place??

Like screws for assembly? A list of all required parts is attached in the gallery as well as the manual.

i cant get the limbs to print for nothing the way they are on the build plate i get one arm of the limb and the printer prints in thin air on the second arm with supports ive tried several times and the print fails no matter how i lay the part ..after a few fails it printed!!!

Dude do your research before 3D printing yourself

Thanks for sharing this cool project. Check your tip jar.


I'm having trouble removing the supports, specifically for the cam, idler and counterweight hull. the last one is going best, but i can't remove the supports for the cam and idler the way you specified in the instructions. what can i do about this?

You mean from the notch in the idler wheel and cam? You basically have to punch a hole, get behind the support (which should only be a single wall) and then pry it out with a needle or similar thin and rigid tool.

Great design Don and it works great. Thanks, Giving it to my grandson for Christmas.

Comments deleted.

where can i find arrow info? this is on my list fir after i finish xmas gifts andi don't see arrow info. am i blind?

I used bambo skewers, masking tape for the fletching and dipped the 2 ends in epoxy for strength.

I put some info on how to build arrows in the instructional document PDF in the download section.

Quick question: I have a guy wanting to pay me to print this for him, and was wondering if you would be OK with that. ( I would only be charging for filament basically) thank you!

It is your work and materials that go into making this thing so of course I encourage you to charge for these expenses.
I only put the design under non-monetization license to at least try to hinder anyone from stealing it. It simply happens to often designs/models are downloaded from the public domain only to be re-uploaded on TurboSquid or some other paid platform.

thank you, I appreciate it!

I have a MP select....do you know if I can scale it down slightly to fit my bed? The riser had to be scaled to 85% to fit....do you know if this would work?

No you won't find any fitting bolts and nuts at this scale. M3 bore holes would be scaled down to 2.55, a non existent standard. The goto solution here would be to break down the riser into two parts to be printed separately and reattached later on.

By quick research your print volume is 4.7" x 4.7" x 4.7" (120 x 120 x 120 mm) correct?
I actually went back to my design and divided the riser at the only feasible location, the grip. The two parts will be reassembled by means of the four holes in the grip which already allow for M3 bolts.
The upper larger part now has the dimensions 124 x 39.5 x 26.3 mm. Oriented diagonally, it should fit on your printbed just fine.

Remember this technique is untested and I don't know if the riser will be as sturdy as printed in one piece (probably not)!

Have problem to understand how to put the string.
Can some one make video of it how it is put on.
The guide is just not helping me and on pictures you can't see anything

Please help

I didnt read Don,s instructions but found the stringing wasn't to hard if you got the wheels in the right place and turned right. Stringing will only work if those wheels are right.

No worries, you are not alone there!
I finally gave in, took some time and published an instructional video (https://youtu.be/lR2IHDQ0kf0). Turn on subtitles for a step-by-step guide.
I hope this will clear things up a little. If you have further questions, please feel free to ask!

the quality of the instructions images is too low, i can't read it

You mean the preview images of the part lists?
Click on the fullscreen icon and then "View Original" on the top left. This will take you to the full resolution image.
By the way the lists are also included as PDF in the thing files.

Comments deleted.

What is the bigest thing of this bow.?

The riser has the largest dimensions. It measures 161.5 x 39.5 x 26.3 mm.

hey, i wanted to ask you a some things. will the limbs bend over time and lose their power? if i do a 160% scale bow, which screws i have to use?

or maybe i could just make it 133% so i can just use m4 screws

In my experience limbs made from a fairly elastic material like PETG or ABS do hold up very well and keep their power after an initial drop. My PETG limbs had to bear several hundred shots at this point and I still use the first pair.

Regarding scaleup of the model I think there are already two or so makes by users who had this exact same idea (I cannot seem to find them now though). As metric ISO bolts and nuts scale up linearly you should be able to substitute M3 for M4 @133%, M5 @167% and so forth. Keep in mind you also have to scale the lengths accordingly. A well sorted hardwarestore should provide everything you need.

Thank you, im printing the 133% one right now. I already did the 100% one and it's fabulous, really well made model, it shots further than 20m but I wanted to try something more powerfu, and that's why I'm printing it 133%l One last question, why doesn't the model have two cams like normal compound bows? (Sorry for my bad English :3)

With the design I went for a so called single cam compound bow. As the name suggests it requires only one cam and a primitive idler wheel on the other limb. The advantages of this design are: You only have to print one cam which is by far the most delicate part. Stringing the bow is way easier plus you do not need to worry about synchronizing two cams (which you have to do for standard compound bow designs). The major disadvantage is the "nocking point" (where you put the arrow on the string) shifts quite a bit while tensioning the bow.
At least that is my understanding of the technology so far. I'm no professional archer and this design was my first attempt at making a compound bow.

Just posted my Make, thanks again, it was great fun and quite a challenge.

Only problem I have is that my string tends to skip the wheels while pulling. Especially the string from the idler wheel is leaving in a very steep angle towards the cable guide. Any idea if iI missed something or what I could do to improve?

This is just plain sick, I can't wait to print this out!

Hey Don, I designed this Arrow Holder to go with your bow:

...just felt wrong hanging the bow for display in my garage without it. ;)

Arrow Holder (for Miniature Compound Bow)

Very nice! Definetely going to print this as soon as I'm back home.

This might be the most well-documented 3D build I've ever come across on here! Thank you so much for all the work you put into the docs and the model! Can't wait to finish this and shoot it with my daughter! :)

Can I please get a measurement from the center of the idler to center of the cam (before the string is installed)?

Also, if it's printed scaled up, how would I find the proper string length needed? Same scale increase?

Distance between idler wheel pivot and cam pivot is 238 mm in tension-free condition.

Theoretically the string length should scale linearly together with the bow. But I'm not 100% sure due to the complex geometry of the cam.

Comments deleted.


Very cool design. It works very well. I am using a 0.4 fishing line as string on it and I clocked it at 15m/s. I am currently printing it at 225%. Can't wait to see the result when done :) .

I have a issue with the cable guard. It is pulling the cord to the side a bit to much and after I shoot there is a 50% chance that the cord will jump from the wheels. Is this something that happens to anybody else? Or maybe I did something wrong that causes this?

I've heard of the string jumping from the wheels for two reasons:
A: Too rigid or thick string. If the string is not flexible enough it does not cling to the tight curves of wheel and cam too well. The result is a tendency to jump off when releasing a shot. Do you use the solid, transparent type of fishing line or the colored braided one? I switched to the latter lately and it appears to work a lot better.
B: The cable guard should not pull to the side too much. Yet if this is the case there might be a slight mistake in the stringing. Could you post a picture from the side with the guard for me to check it?


first of all, awesome design! It looks amazing :) I am about to print on of these. I hope it will shoot just as well as it looks.

But I still have a question regarding the aux-limbs. In the instructions you mention that the aux-limbs should be printed from rigid pla to provide more strength. However, the parts list recommends PETG for the aux-limbs (just as for the regular limbs). I am currently printing the aux-limbs with PETG as I did only look at the parts list until now. Is that still okay for the bow or should I re-print with PLA?

PETG should be fine too. I have tested both PLA and PETG for the aux-limbs and there was no significant difference from the specific materials I had in stock.
You should try with the PETG ones first as they will definetely work. If you are not satisfied with the bow's strength, reprint them in a more rigid material. But I bet as long as you do not plan on taking it for a hunt, PETG will be powerful enough :)

In theory PETG is stronger than PLA, so it should be ok. I printed in PLA and it works just fine.

What exactly you mean by "fine" :p What range you can shoot at?


Just checking, what do you mean by wall thickness? Do you mean the outline shell? Or do you mean the extrusion multiplier?

Wall thickness is the outline shell basically.

how do i string it and put it together?

You can find detailed instructions on the assembly in the thing download section

I would like to see a bow in action, could anyone upload a video on youtube?

Has anyone tried printing this at 200% scale ?

I don't think so. Only 160%

Miniature Compound Bow

I'm doing one at 200% as we speak on my Taz5. I'll post the results here.

Yes!!! Keep us updated please! :) and also bols size jaajja I think I may use carbon fiber or long sticks from Leroy Merlin

What arrows do you use at 160%?

great work on this model! would you happen to know if mirroring only the riser would make this work for left handed people or is there more i need to do?

Good point! Haven't thought about you lefties till now :)
If I'm not mistaken, there is actually three parts that need to be mirrored for left handed usage:

Riser (as you mentioned),
ArrowGuide (else the opening would be on the bottom -> arrow falling out) &
Cam (cables might collide otherwise)

All remaining parts should be ambidextrous by design, can be flipped or swapped (e.g. IdlerWheel & CableAnchor).
The whole process of stringing has to be mirrored too of course. Which might turn out a little complicated but is totally feasible.

great. ill try that out. i didnt think about it myself until i finished printing the Riser today and realized i couldnt hold it correctly haha. print went well so i dont mind mirroring it and trying again. appreciate the input!!

would printing all parts mirrored not work? just a thought i had.

It sure will and you would be on the safe side this way.
Still most parts or their assembly are symetrical, thus mirroring them will yield the exact same result.

great! thanks you once again for the input. one more question, do you happen to have a good recommendation for arrows? didnt see what anyone was using for those.

I use and recommend skewers made from bamboo (or some other wood?). The ones used for BBQ, fondue etc.than come in packages of 100 pcs or so. About one foot (30 cm - perfectly fits the bow's draw length) long, 3 mm in diameter with one flat and one pointy end. Simply cut a string notch in the flat end and you are ready to go.
In the last chapter of the instructions I included in the download section, you can find further tips on adding a needle tip and fins for flight stabilization.

Very impressive. Noticed you included .dae (collada, I think) files, but they're a low-level 3d format. Do you have any CAD files for this? Would be fascinating to see just how you designed it.

Yep, an other user requested Collada files for modifying parts in SketchUp.
The bow is my original design so I do have a complete Fusion 360 model. I'm not too sure about publishing the CAD files though. Do you plan on modding any of the parts? In this case I could give you the respective STEP file.

No actual plan to mod it. I'd love to CNC my own (actual size) bow someday, but that's a LONG way off. I just found the design complexity with the curves etc. very interesting --- particularly the fit between the red limbs and white riser, and the 3-dimensional curving of the riser & grip --- and wanted to study how it was done from the CAD designs. A video on the techniques used would be equally welcome.

Printed this on our SLA machine, very impressed with the design.

I used nylon string, made a simple knot and used a flame to seal the string loops. This thing shoots amazingly well for such a small bow

Has Anyone tried printing this in ABS? Just curious if it would still work and function correctly.

In my experience with abs this should work fine. Might want to increase the infill slightly as abs is more flexible than pla

Great model! Do you have recommendations for creating the loops of the bowstring? I've looked at videos for creating a flemish knot, but I don't think that applies to this bow. How did you bind the end loop of the string?

Actual bow string is no to different from multiple strands of dental floss i think. get a board and put screws 720mm appart and put a few wraps on it with the floss to make a custom length string, use the ends to tightly wrap a noose like knot at the end, I forget how to make it twist together in the center though. maybe by twisting the floss before you wrap it with a drill.

Thanks! Bowline (aka Palstek) worked pretty well for me. Requires a fairly flexible string though. The 0,7 mm nylon cord I used before was too stiff and would not fasten at all. I got some braided 0,5 mm Polyester predator fishing line off Amazon. Now knots are absolutely secure.

I will try the fishing line. I tried some simple .7mm nylon string but it stretches too much. I followed your PDF for string assembly using metal gate latch wire for holding the nylon in place. That seems to hold so I'll give it a go with the fishing line. Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Wrong video linked?

Original comment has been deleted.
Someone posted a tutorial video by a guy with Indian accent on doing sweeps in in Fusion 360 here for some reason.
(Keine Ahnung was das sollte hab auch keine Antwort darauf bekommen.)

du bist deutscher? cool!

Can I print "Limb" and "AuxLimb" with normal PLA ?

I think so as others have printed the whole bow from a single material.
The types of PLA I own are a bit too stiff. And I'm afraid main limbs made out of it might snap. But my auxilary limbs are actually printed from this PLA to provide more power.
Every brand/make of PLA appears to have different mechanical properties. So yours might be a little more elastic thus perfectly suited for the job. I would recommend first printing one limb from your PLA. If you can barely bend it with your hands but feel there is a slight amount of flex, it should work like a charm.

just finished making 2 of these, awesome design. i used nylon serving thread for the string

sorry if this is a stupid question but which model(s) do I need multiple of?

You need two of
AuxLimb (optional),
and LimbCap
each. You can find a part list with the required amount in the download section as well as in the sample images.

thank you so much for pointing that out i completely missed that lol

I made a video about this bow, included a credit for you of course ;)

Great video! Thank you very much!

Echt klasse Anleitung! Aus was machst du die Miniaturpfeile? oder wo gibt es diese zu kaufen?

Danke! Die Pfeile sind alle selbstgemacht. Ich nehme normale Schaschlikspieße aus Holz. Gibts z.B. von Fackelmann (https://www.fackelmann.de/de/haushalt/show/food-more/produkte/schaschlikspiesse-30cm-holz-sbbtl/) oder oft auch noch günstigere aus 1€-Läden. Dann einfach hinten eine kleine Kerbe reingeschnitten, Heckflossen aus Tesa drangeklebt und fertig. Wenn der Spieß halbwegs gerade war fliegen die ausgezeichnet.

Sorry for this...I feel like I'm clogging up the comments with all these questions and requests...but I feel like this will help everyone because I just can't figure out the stringing method. I own 5 compound bows, so I thought it would be easy to copy their method...but none have the same cam design. I think a high resolution picture from each side of the bow so you can zoom in would make it easy to figure out the correct way. Just like the 2nd picture from the left on this Thingiverse page, but from the opposite side (side of the cam with two attachment points)...but also includes the top idler so you can see where everything goes. I've read the instructions at least 10 times...but I think just that one picture that's missing would snap everything into clarity.

No problem! I'm always happy to be able to help a dedicated maker in distress. Just added detail shots of the cam from left and right. Hope that clarifies things a little.

Thanks! In my haste to try this thing out I used cord with just a little too much diameter and it split the idler, cam, etc..when I applied the first pressure...so back to printing again :)

How did everyone print this? Are you using dual extruders with a support filament? I've never had any luck with Simplify3d's support generation.

No dual extruders here. Simply breakaway support structures. Personally I like to use Support Interfaces. Generates a solid barrier between the actual support pattern and the model's surface leaving two layer heights gap. This way the bottom of the model comes out perfect but is easy to separate from the interface (most of the time).

Can't really say anything about Simplify as I'm not willing to pay for a Slicer. But support in Cura and Slic3r works like a charm 90% of the time.

What specific part are you having trouble with?

The limbs. I figured I'd start with what appeared to be the most difficult to print first that way I don't waste a bunch of printing only to find I can't make the final piece.

The adding of supports always leaves a little gap from model before printing the support...but then it's just printing into thin air and turns to spaghetti everywhere and ruins print. I suppose if I change that gap to zero it would solve...but then I'm just adding to the model at that point. I guess I could cut away with a saw or dremel later.

By gap you mean in z-direction between the layers? Because the support generation is supposed to leave one or two layers gap (see screenshot). This way it is easier to remove later on. But as soon as the support is printed after the skipped layers it should stick to the top of the model nevertheless. When producing spaghetti, something else has to be messed up.
Lowering the gap distance to zero will most certainly give you fused model and support. And I don't expect it to be easy nor clean to remove, even by machining with a dremel.

Could you send me the print settings you have tried unsuccesfully?
The only alternative that comes to my mind is to try a different slicer. Cura and Slic3r are both free, so why not give it a shot.

Would you be willing to upload the files after exporting them from Fusion360 to Sketchup format? I understand if you don't want anyone changing your design...I'm just having no luck with several of the parts and think with just a few small mods in Sketchup I can get them printing fine.

Just converted and uploaded every individual part in Collada (.dae) as well as a Blender file with a collection of everything.

Thanks, I'll get this thing printed at some point...lol. Just a curiosity, is there a purpose besides weight, to have the wheels with "spokes"? I was getting very brittle results, and was going to make them solid...wasn't sure if there was a function the particular shape or not though.

Legitimate question. No the skeletonized structure of idler wheel and cam serves no specific purpose in this scale. Of course on a life size bow you would want to cut down on weight. Especially for moving parts as mass comes with inertia and negative impact on the performance.
On a model that small the components in question could simply be made solid. Would be much easier in fact.
I just wanted to keep as much of an original bow's look and feel as possible. And skeletonized always looks damn tactical to me!

You did well, it looks almost identical to my Diamond bow.

Believe me, I didn't want to pay $150 for software that is inferior to free ones out there. Unfortunately I purchased my Dremel Idea Builder when I knew little about 3D printing and proprietary software...and unfortunately Simplify3D was the only software I could find capable of producing the proprietary file my printer needs to print. I honestly think it's a bug with Simplify3D and specifically how it generates the support because I've watched hours of tutorials online and played with all support settings and it just never works out right.

I have had good success drawing my own supports in Google Sketchup when I design my stuff to print...but never with Simplify. I might give Meshmixer a try...or some similar software that can add support and then generate a new .stl file.

Thanks for the help...I haven't given up yet. :)

EDIT: Also the support your slicer generates looks way better than what S3D outputs. I've always wondered if designs can be uploaded to Thingiverse with supports as part of the stl file? Do you know if your slicer will generate an .stl as opposed to a gcode file?

I have found Meshmixer does a really nice job creating easy to remove supports and then exporting a usable stl. But when using Meshmixer, I found, you will want to flip the model over to look at the bottom of the model. Sometimes it will add support where bridging is adequate. You may also want to reduce cell size in the support generator settings. This helps to prevent unnecessary support from being generated.

I just started printing this bow, fairly new to 3d printing.. I was given Cura 15.1 thought it sucked. Used idea maker, even paid for Simplfy3D. Hate it, used every free one I could find. Just before starting printing this I switched to Cura 3.1. I thought printing with supports no matter the setting sucked. I almost didn't print this due to that.

Attached is a pic with Bow so far and the 4 limb pivots. the scrap is just how the limb pivots popped out of the supports. there was zero post processing with those and almost none on the other parts so far.

This is a great model and a big THANKS to DonStick3l. My strings is being made by a custom string maker. when done I will post a made it. the guys around here are big archery fanatics. have already redesigned a few files. Looking to add a bushing in the cam and idler or make a dual cam with bushings. heck this maybe the new darts!!!

Heyya. Made this last night. Works like a champ after I printed the riser like the arms. 2kg draw (if i understand correctly how to measure) (arrow drawn to full with a scale on the tip)


Nice shot!
Hard to tell from the clip for sure but I think the cam might be flipped. Not a real problem, but this way arrows can't be inserted from the left as easyly.

Ah, yeah, I really couldn't work it out from the pictures..

Also where the string/s go, I've only got one in there - as you've got 2 in the instruction manual.

Do you have any videos of this thing in action?

Not yet unfortunately. I wanted this up and shared as soon as possible. I might find some time and upload a demonstration video in the near future. But trust me, this thing works almost too well! Have been testing it extensively on like every day for the past two weeks.

yes, this works very well, Im using fishing nylon and is enough powerful. Very nice design