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Hi ive tried printing a couple of times now and for whatever reason the top part of the duct wont fuse/print properly? Can anyone suggest settings I can tweak to fix this? Printing with a Prusa MK3, 3d solutech PETG, Slic3r PE... TYIA!
After using this for 3 months now, I only have 1 nagging persistent complaint. The stock pr-m10 Bowden connector is so hidden by the fan mount that I have to party disassemble the whole thing when I get a clog and the ptfe tubing can no longer be pulled out as a quick release. I am hoping to find some sort of m10 extension among the pneumatic parts retailers just to make it easier to get at and unbolt. If anyone has dealt with this and found a good reliable solution I would appreciate it. I cut the ptfe when I do eventually get it out but losing 5-10 mm every time it doesn't take too many cooks before your tube is no longer long enough just because the stupid fitting bites into it, and can no longer be removed without unbolting the fitting. And the fitting can't be unbolted without removing the entire bullseye mounting bracket from around the hotend. Very frustrating.
I am finding the airflow for the e3d V6 Volcano fang is blowing about 1cm behind the nozzle. Is this right? It appears my printes have not been cooling right at all. And yes I have the nozzle in the correct orientation. Turned so it is as much aligned to the duct as possible.
can it be used for a cr 10s pro?
I'd like to mention that for stock 20mm fan of v6 hotend, the bottom of bullseye is too big. The stock fan and bkue fanmount of v6 hotend only reaches the second fin of the heat sink. That ends up in insufficient cooling and clocks in my hotend. other mounts with bigger fans ended up the same, insufficient cooling and clocks. At least for me.
Never the less, i like the fan mount and the cooling for the filament is excellent!
Two questions. 1. Will the bullseye for ender 3 clear a 40x40x20mm noctua fan for the hot end? I imported the model into fusion and it looks like its only 18mm between the base and the duct. 2. If the answer to the first question is no, would it be possible to get the step file for both so i can modify the body a little. Working with the stl file is pain in the ass haha.
assembled for ender 3 pro. It took me an additional 2 m3 nuts and 2 M3x16 screws. I'm testing now. (fans and everything else standard in the delivery).
If you put a turbine fan, then the airflow will increase greatly (will it be better for printing or not)? as with turbine noise (more or less than a standard fan)? wiring from the turbine how to connect (solder existing wires or pull again)?
Also, if you order a turbine, the heating element also makes sense to change something and for what?
Confused, I have ender 3 pro all stock (by cooling). If I print everything for stock, need additional screws and other fasteners? Blowout will be enough or you need to buy a turbine?
The v2 has higher performance but for someone just starting 3d printing and wanting an effective cooling solution without changing any electronics the Bullseye is a good choice. Column 1 parts will get you started.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1R1jzapNNkDqQT8YeCMAhU0IwbxPiws3hBRr7aJOKzNc/edit#gid=1441642341
Sorry wrong link.
Here you go.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=1441642341&single=true
Do you have any plans to support E3D's new super volcano hotend?
Overall Length (just block and nozzle Assembled) 56.5±0.5mm
Overall Length (when combined with v6 heatsink) 98.3±0.5mm
It will be supported in out new auto leveling back plate system currently in development.
Hi, is there anyone here who can make a direct drive mount for the cr-10s that is compatible with the dual 5015 fan model of this duct? I'm using a ezr-strudder but can switch to a bondtech bmg extrudder if it is easier...Email me if you have the time and ability benjamin - AT
benjaminbudzak.com (no dash)
Hi, I'm some what confused.
I have a CR-10S, is the bullseye or petsfang v2 the better option?
I have the stock hotend, stock fan but i also have access to a 12v 5015 fan.
The v2 Petsfang handles overhangs slightly better than the Bullseye.
Does anyone has some experiences with 80mm fans on this (using conversion adapters)?
I have some old silent 80mm fans left and would like to use here...
Hi there. Need to print BLT- LEFT SIDE OF BASE and can't find the file ALL_BLT_LEFT_V7.5.stl, instead there is a file called ALL_BLT_LEFT_X-48_Y-10_3.29.stl. Is that the same upgraded file?
Yes. That is a new file that gives a little more clearance on some of the screw heads. I have updated the databases for the file.
Hello :) I recently print base and fan duct 5015 for E3D V6 hotend without any of sensors. Is there some new Y offset in settings? I think its a bit off. Maybe like Y offset on 9 mm like in Bantam mount? Thx :)
I realize this is popular, I see it everywhere, but that is no reason the Summary isn't just that. I mean, what does this do, and why do I need it?
What are the extruder clearances for the Bullseye? I'm trying to setup the 'complete individual objects' opinion in Slic3r PE
I don't understand the question. The extruder is mounted to the Z rail?
It sounds like they're trying to find out what clearances to set up in Slic3r PE to allow it to print multiple objects individually instead of all at once - which would be the total length and width of the Bullseye and its base, relative to the position of the nozzle, I suppose.
is there also a way to mount one of these miniature m8 inductive probes like the PINDAv2?
why don't you guys make it the bullseye for the 5015 fan?? the petsfang is way too heavy and causes ghosting
Our engineer designs plenums to match the fans. We take the specifications of a particular fan and design a cooling system around it. To create the airflow that has been so successful with our cooling solutions a larger plenum is required using a 5015. The smaller Bullseye plenum is just too small for the 5015 and produces too much velocity at the outlet. The larger Petsfang v2 was developed to the specs of a 5015 centrifugal. If you are getting ghosting it is not due to weight, as we have tested 10 times the weight on the v-wheels with improved performance in the prints not less. Our Direct Drive mods are examples of this additional weight.
Cooling is not about more velocity. Proper filament cooling is about a directed, low speed, balanced airflow.
How do you mount the dial gauge to the MODULAR_V2_DIAL_GAUGE_left_side_9.13, feels like im missing something
I modified the original design so that the BFPTouch can be mounted on the petsfang duct.
BFPTouch is a reliable and inexpensive probe (things:2890290).
I got a standard deviation of 0.001 with BFPTouch.
But the original design had interference and that's why I made this revision.
XY offset is X-1,Y-9.9 at the original offset.
(e.g. X-43, Y-5.9 if using E3D V6)
not tested with bullseye.
I post it here because the producer does not allow remixing.
I hope it will help.
Thank you bro, will try this soon.
I used the file in the chart and my stock blower fan doesn't fit in the duct. It won't slip down in where the little slits are to fit for me to put a screw through. I managed to force it into it but it broke the back part of it a bit and it won't sit flush for me to put the small screws through. I have a stock setup so I'm not sure why it won't fit?
I've seen on other models where there's no piece behind where the blower fan sits, was that an older iteration?
Any ideas? It fits into the base fine, and I didn't mess with print size any.
Just file them out a bit
Im not sure what bullseye files im suppose to use for my Ender 3 with stock 40mm fans
Trying to print this for the tevo nereus with the e3D V6 hotend. Any idea if the tevo tornado base will work just fine, and which fang I should print for it?
The nereus extruder mount is attached in this image. I think it has similar screw placement.
an amazing upgrade for your bullseye!
I'm using the suggested 3mm x12mm screws to mount the fangs to the support body but the holes seems larger so it won't grab. Is it because of my prints or am I using the wrong size screws?
I'm using 5015 fans and stock hotend for the Ender 3
Did you install the 3mm nuts into the base?
WOW. That's what I call "DEDICATION". Thanks for the sharing. Cheers Dude
I love your design and have been using it for the longest time, however I wanted to upgrade my stock hotend to a "upgraded E3D type thing" and it fits fine, only thing is the 40mm fan duct sits a little high and doesnt cool the bottom portion of the heatsink, i wanted to know if it would be possible to have a little tweak made to offset the fan?
Here is a link to the item on aliExpress, if you scroll down a bit on the description there's literally every measurement of every angle and length of this hot end. Let me know if this is possible, Thanks a million :)
Here the same problem with the CR-10s Pro MicroSwiss hotend installed on de Cr-20 Pro the is 5 mm longer so the duct sits 5 mm to high is there any tweak for this ? the Duct need to be 5 mm longer/lower and it would be perfect !
I have the same problem :)
i want to install this on my Cr-10s but no where in all of your documentation can i find what hardware/screws ill need
can anyone please help me out
Hi, I have printed the petsfang base successfully and going to print the cooling ducts soon. I wanted to double check if it's ok to print in Silk PLA+? I am printing in Purple Silk PLA+ and wanted to double check that it wouldn't warp/bend as I've had warping with another mount design. I am doing 100% infill so the base was super strong.
Quick question when printing this obviously certain parts need support but the inside of the bullseye duct for the stock creality fans if I put a support blocker there will it print right and if not how do you go about removing your supports??? Thanks
Read the description. 70° angle for supports and only on build plate. There is also a picture how it should look with supports.
Is there available option for:
ender 3 + e3d v6 + bullseye + direct mount (extruder + stepper) ?
We have a higher performing design for the Direct Extruder.
Well thank you, but for this one I need to print everything from beggining...
I printed the bullseye for my Ender 3, and unfortunately ran into the fact that for some reason the stock radial 4010 fan didn't fit into the duct. This was caused by the slots where the fan inserts into the duct were to narrow. I'm not exactly sure what they are sized to, but I'm guessing they are meant to take a 1.5mm thick plate. My Ender 3 (ordered in February this year) came with a radial fan that has a 2 mm thick screw plate. This is not a very big issue as I could simply fix it with a sharp hot hobby knife to carefully slice of a bit of the material to widen the slots, but I wanted to make sure you would become aware of the fact that apparently on recent model enders, in some cases they may have changed to a slightly different design fan.
Glad to know someone had the same issue! I noticed earlier revisions don't seem to have the back piece, but instead just the front. Something like that would work better.
Thought I was printing something wrong! I ordered mine a couple months ago.
I have been looking into the version of the (regular) Ender 3 I received and it seems that severa parts have been swapped and replaced with parts also used on the Ender-3 pro. My machine for instance has additional holes in the bed support plate (to which the wheels are mounted) that facilitate the use of the plate on the 4040 extrusion as used on the Pro.
I’m guessing that the fan is also an upgraded part from the Pro version.
I'm wondering if I can open it in Meshmixer and create a bit large gap. Might give the heated exacto knife way a try as well, or maybe just cut off the back side altogether.
Thanks to you i succesfully managed the print of your model
I've made a file for a problem i've met with the Touch Mi
I've added especially your files i used in the process so i hope it's ok for you
There is the link if it can help : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3508458
It's not precise as your work but we never know
Tell me if you're ok with that
HI: Sorry if I am missing the obvious... I have the CR-10 mini, I think this will fit since the difference seems to be bed size, not hot end. But I can't quite figure out what the difference between the "bullseye" and the "modular" mods is? I am guessing the difference is that the modular requires a new/different fan and the bullseye uses the stock fan? The references to 5015 fan are confusing to me at least cause that seems to be a sort of generic fan? Anyway, if someone can clarify it would be great. Many thanks to everyone who devotes themselves to designing and posting this stuff you are great.
The Bullseye was create to offer people a cooling mod without changing any of the fans or hotend of the stock machine. The v2 modular Petsfang is an upgrade and would require a 5015 motor and splicing the wiring for it. The modular v2 also offers a wider selection of hot ends, heat sink fans that will fit.
Hope that helps.
ender 5 mount for petsfang 5015?
Is there any way to mount the "All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO" cause this is the hotend you need for the Creality CR-20 Pro so i can use youre Petsfang Duct please ? or a part that fix the CR-10s Pro should work also.
can i switch the bullseye with the tevo design for the stock cr10-cooling fan?
If yes what do i need to print differently
The Tevo base will fit on the CR10 but the CR10 base will not fit the Tevo. (there is more clearance for the larger heat sink and thicker back plate on the Tevo)
Silly question but for the Bullseye should the fan for the heat sink blow air onto it to cool it or blow towards us to take air away from it?
I'm not sure if I've put it on backwards or not.
I think I have because its quite noisy now lol
Heat sink fans should always blow at the heat sink. not draw air away.
Sorry I forgot to reply to this.
Thanks buddy :)
I'm a beginner of this world of 3D printing, just 1.5 month i get my Ender 3.
So excuse my english (French man) and my question but could someone tell me which files i should print for my printer ?
I have checked the pdf for CReality, but i'm really not sure about the choice
My guess would be to choose "Stock Fans & E3Dv6 Hotend (BULLSEYE)"
Could someone confirm me it's the right choice ?
Thanks a lot and congratulations for this excellent work & design
If you are using the E3Dv6 hot end column 2. If you are using the stock hot end column 1.
OK i assume the "stock hot end" means the original hot end, so i have to take column 1 as you say
Thanks for this very quick answer
Hi, how much fan percentage should we run for pla with bullseye and all stock fans on tevo tornado? Still 100% like with stock set up? I printed and installed it already. It looks like a brilliant design!!! Thanks
I had to bump mine down to 50%. The old 100% setting I ran on stock with zero trouble was causing basicaly total over-cooling delamination of the layers. Might be able to go up a bit from 50% but it's working for me at 210c with PLA+ from Monoprice.
With the Bullseye you would typically run it 80-100% because the fan is so anemic.
I have ender3 with e3d v6 + bullseye. Any option to upgrade that setup with direct drive with same setup (e3d v6+bullseye)?
I have options for much higher performance over the Bullseye for Direct Extruders.
So print it as realize that i need extra hardware for the bulls-eye, Im not to handy with screws and nuta can anyone lead me to which one i need extra other than the ones that the printer already have , its for the bullseye and both stock fans? i think they are 3mm nut and 3 bolt
All the nuts and bolts you will need are on the main page in Thingiverse. Here is the list.
Thanks. I reprinted. My first duct was squished by a few mm for some reason. Keep up the great work!
Hi I printed the pieces for a stock Ender 3. But the ducts are not low enough. At their lowest adjustment half of the duct output is still hitting the insulation. Am I supposed to mess with the stock hot end heat sink screws to change it's length? Am I missing something? My hot end looks a little different than in a lot of the pictures. The insulation is a smooth black rubber sleeve over a solid medal block.
Did you use 3mm screws and nuts on the adjustment arms?
Does the ender 3 petsfang version fit the ender 5 with EZABL as well?
I printed the dual 5015 twice now. On both prints, one of the interior columns seems to break off. How much of an impact is that going to have with the flow, or is it a built in support that's supposed to be removed post printing?
First of all a big thank you for the work. But something has me puzzled. When I print the EZABL 18mm file, the top and bottom of the "hole" are solid and if I have infill defined, the "hole" gets filled with infill in S3D.
It looks like you have "merge all outlines into a solid model" turned on in the Advanced tab. Turn it off and re-slice.
There has to be a way to install the EZABL to the bullseye with a Ender 5, the normal way i seen only firsts the ender 3, and i kept looking about where to possibly place this and it seems the X axis wheel mount would strike the sensor when it goes all the way to the left. i was thinking of taking the bracket and adjusting it so it could sit on a Ender 5, but it wouldnt be positioned to the middle like it should be and i dont know to to make any offsets or calculate it so it would work properly. Hmmm Dilema!
Hi just a suggestion for a future revision. I printed the dual 5015 for my CR-10s and it worked great. While printing with a .8mm nozzle the print failed and broke the ends of the nozzles off. It might be worth making the nozzles a separate smaller part that could be changed out.
I'm sorry for my ignorance but I do not understand the pdf and I would like you to pass me the link to install the layer ventilator in ender 3.
Maybe someone finds my fan grill with switchable and dimmable led light useful: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3480469
I easily print the Volcano double 5015 for CR10, but i can't print the Volcano single 5015 for CR10 :'(
The back of the fangs is more thin on the single 5015 ?
I succed to print two Volcano double 5015, but impossible to print one good single 5015.
The one i succed have the back of the fang very thin and crack just by touching it while with the double 5015 i can push very hard on the back, he's very strong.
The walls on the single 5015 are .8 mm thick. Try reducing your slicer extrusion width to just under .4 mm. For some reason many slicers see it as 1 wall thick in areas. Make sure it reads as 2.
Hope that helps.
I print it with 0,6mm nozzle, set to 0.6mm width extrusion and i can see two walls on the fail print, but there are separate. I'll try with other settings. What is the tickness of the double 5015 Volcano ? Because it print great and solid. Thank you.
Is there a version that will allow us to mount the blower sitting perpendicular to the current orientation? With frame braces on the fan collides with the braces at the top, reducing the X distance allowable that high. Meaning I have to sacrifice about 50mm of Z height to the blower collision to allow the X axis to still home correctly.
Sorry there is not. We were trying to keep as much mass close to the X axis when we developed it. There are some frame braces that were engineered to accommodate our design though.
Can anyone tell me if this will work on the TRONXY X5SA? Looks amazing
I just printed BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27.stl BULLSEYE_DUCT_9.27.stl. I assembled everything and there's something different fromthe pdf. I think the duct 9.27 screws that hold it to the base are 3mm (M3) and the holes in the Base are 4mm (M4). The M3 would just enter freely. I used two M4 finally and I have to thread into the duct holes and it made it hard to adjust the bottom.
Could anyone check if I'm crazy?
There are 2 3mm nuts that need to be installed in the base. This allows you to use 3mm screws and not strip out the plastic over time.
The 3mm nuts only get it with extreme force. My first print got cracked by inserting one of the nuts (the right back bottom one). And the 2nd print split in 4, womp, womp. If I use 2mm nuts and screws in those 2 points, would it still work the same way?
Thanks for the help,
Maybe something got wrong in my print in those two holes.
Because when I inserted my 3mm socket head screws they just went through the base holes and I couldn't rotate them. What is interesting it that the 2 screws on the right side, worked perfectly. I just measured in blender and they seem to be the same size.
Weird stuff. Thanks for the build btw!
Those 3mm screws should fit loosely in the holes. There needs to be (2) 3mm nuts in the base. See pic 2 in the instructions. http://www.dpetsel.com/bullseye.html
That Indeed makes more sense! thanks, Maybe I'll have to print the base and bullseye again.
Looking to put a bullseye 30MM or 40MM hotend fan on my Ender 5 with a E3Dv6 and a 18MM EZABL. If someone wants to adjust the parts I can pay them for there time. email@example.com
I am using the bullseye mount with stock fan on my Ender 3. I have the unified firmware from TH3D installed on the printer as well. Do I need to use a custom probe option for the offset of the EZABL or does the Petsfang work for that? If I need to use custom do you know what the values are for the offset?
The Petsfang offsets in the Unified Firmware work for all my mods, including the Bullseye.
I just wanted to comment on your work. You did a fantastic job, your research on airflow, the part files, your instruction/parts spread sheets were all put together so well. I printed out the single 5015 fan duct and stock base for my cr10, they turned out great. Cannot wait to install them. Thank you for your work.
Thank you for the kind words.
I just saw your message that you updated the ezabl file and I just wanted to say thank you. The work you do here is amazing. You are truly a pillar of this modding community.
which files are for the creality ender 3?
Great work, it fit perfectly to my Ender 3.
only a things that i have to use a bit longer screw on left, like an M3x14 elsewhere i can deep to catch nut.
All other things , like all setup parameters is so so so good
I have an Ender 3, I printed out the single 5015 fang duct and tried to install the Swiss-Micro all hot end. The Swiss-Micro hot end hangs lower than the stock hot end. This duct is about 3 to 4 mm short for the Swiss-Micro hotend and the cooling ducts line up with the heater block. I compared the single fan to the dual fan and the dual fan is longer and looks like it would accommodate the Swiss hot end. I tried the dual fan duct before and I did not like it as it has too much cooling for my taste. Can this duct be reworked?
Can you post a pic?
I use a v2 duct with a genuine Micro Swiss and it fits perfect. It is actually the combination it was designed around.
Blame this one on me, I inadvertently ordered the hot end for the CR-10 pro. Sorry and disregard.
The good people at Swiss-Micro are shipping me the correct cooling block, thumbs up to fix my screw up.
I would like use your modular Petsfang on my Alfawise U20.
My Kit Bloc Buse Nozzle Heater is on the picture.
BULLSEYE_E3DV6_CREALITY_BASE_10.9 is it compatible with Alfawise U20 ?
Thanks you for your help.
I looked at the back plate and it may work.
You might have to locate and drill the far left hole for the base, but the other dimensions look close.
You could try a base and see. I can't guarantee it though.
Thanks you for your research and answer !
I have a solution for Alfawise U20 users :) : I found this page https://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/topic/19591-fang-modulable/.
Sorry it's in French.
Where is duct for ender 3 stock fan?
Ezabl hits belt tensioner screw on ender 3
I updated those 2 Ezabl files so the nuts will clear the screws better.
Yes. The mount clears, but some of the larger nuts that hold the 18mm probe do not when tighten perpendicular to the X axis rail. Try tightening the top nut just a bit to clear the point of the nut. It will give you close to the full 220 mm width of the build plate. A round top allen screw in place of the socket head screw works as well. When I design this a year ago TH3D added the offsets for my modular mounts in their Unified firmware. To keep those dimensions standardized the 18mm mount needs a little adjustment. The 13mm has better clearance.
Hope that helps.
Does the cr10 one work with the tronxy x5s?
Because of the special X axis stop on the side I had to design a different mounting solution for the Tronxy.
It is here.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984806
Would anyone care to share how they got their 3m nuts to fit into the slots on the Bullseye base? I got the lowest profile nuts I could find and I have pretty much destroyed my base trying to get them to fit.
Nevermind, found a non-ideal method but it works. Pushed the nuts in as far as I could by hand and then pressed my soldering iron onto them. Nut heated up and got the PLA soft enough it slid right into place.
I recently printed the latest bullseye in PETG (new filament supplier - so for testing, something more sophisticated).
I realized, you made the attachments a bit beefier which is great! But I ran into the issue that I couldn't get the mounting screw in anymore as I am using a BL-Touch on the left side. I solved it by melting away a bit of the Bl-Touch mount. See picture).
I imported your STL into OpenSCAD and deducted a bit of the interfering corner. EDIT: New STL NOT attached.No remixes. Sorry.
So you might consider doing the same thing to your original files.
Keep up the good work!
The 'large' counterbored hole in the upper left of the base part (CR10_STOCK_MANUAL_BASE_V11.3 for me) was bothering me. I understand that that hole is needed for mounting the base to the carriage, but I did not like that it was so close to the fan mounting hole. I imported the STL and made a few modifications. I added a channel on the underside of the base that lets you slide the screw in from the bottom. You therefore only need to fit the allen key in from the top to tighten the screw to the carriage. This allows the hole from the top to be much smaller.
This also let me make the fan mount screws clearance holes with nuts (similar to how the rest of the holes are in the model).
I apologize for my probably terrible explanation, so I have attached a few pictures that illustrate what I did. The author does not allow remixes, so I will not share the new STL file (without their permission), but I thought I would give the suggestion out in case anyone else is interested.
pls can someone say to me witch one i have to stamp for my creality ender 3? thnks for all the help
Are the object files posted anywhere? I have some extra fans (link below) and want to try to update the duct to receive one of these fans blowing straight down instead of the traditional blower. This application might need the extra pressure a blower offers but these fans seem to be pumping out a lot of air at a very low noise so I would like to try this. The fact that they come in a 5 pack also means one could replace all the fans on an ender 3 with a single purchase.
has anyone had issues that the pegs that go behind the E3Dv6 heatsync push against the CR10_E3DV6_MANUAL_BASE_V7.5 mount? its the two holes that are there to accept the pegs on the carriage - they seem to be longer than the manual base file is designed for.
The calipers say the posts are 4.32mm long and the recess is around 3.6mm deep.
Creality has been changing their backplates a lot over the last year. Our part fit when we designed it in Jan of 2018. Creality can't make up their mind how tall to make the round press fit nuts on their backplate. You can take a dremel or a file to cut the base to fit around the "pegs". Just use the profile from the back of the base and trim it completely thru.
Can you make a new version that fits the Ender 5? I love the Bullseye on my Ender 3 but so far all of the modified Ender 5 pieces don't fit properly. I think it needs your magical touch!
Is there a version of this fit for a Geeetech i3?
Try this. It fit's the A10 which I think is the i3.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993902
Thanks for the quick reply, but if I understand correctly, that printer uses a E3D V6 / Volcano style hot-end with bowden tube, the i3 uses a different design (MK8 seems to be the common name) with direct drive, as attached.
I can help model a variation of the duct if that is of any interest for you.
Has anyone come up with a servo mount for the Stock or E3D versions of this cooler? I would really like to install the bullseye i printed but any of the sensors i have tested were junk. The tried and true way i seem to be able to get my bed level is a servo setup.
Is there anyone using the petsfang dual 5015 blower on an ender3 or equivalent? Does the added weight affect the performance/printing quality? Debating if I should print and install, looking for real-world feedback on it. Thanks!
The weight doesn't affect the printing at all. The dual fan was designed for large nozzles above .6mm creating a large volume of filament to cool. If you are printing with a .4mm or smaller the single fan gives you the best performance.
Why do you say that the dual fan was designed for large nozzles but then in another comment (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439/comments/#comment-2364670) mention that it was designed around the Swiss hotend (presumably a 0.4mm)?
What an incredible piece of design! I upgraded to a E3DV6 on my Tevo Tornado and used your mount and blower duct. Your design was a one stop shop to replace my BLTouch and dial indicator mounts as well.
Printed everything last night on the first try. Still waiting on my metric hardware to arrive, but I dry fit everything this afternoon and I'm just blown away by the quality of design. Everything was a perfect fit and the joints for the BLTouch, dial indicator, and strain relief are a really nice touch!
Can't wait for my hardware to arrive to see how the cooling has improved. Excellent work!
Comments like this make it all worth while.
does a version exist for the cr-10s Pro printer?
So, what's the difference between the Petsfang modular v2 and bullseye? which of the two brings the best results?
Which is the lastest? is a bit confusing, and I found no information in the documentation showing what the difference between the Petsfang Modular V2 and Bullseye
Several iterations of the Petsfang v1 and then the v2 were the first engineered cooling mods. They have a slightly better performance than the Bulseye. The Bullseye was designed for people that were apprehensive about soldering wires to accommodate the 5015 fan.
The Bullseye was the solution for these folks that didn't want to modify their machines, it is for stock fans only.
I’m new to 3D printing and I am wanting to upgrade my Creality Ender 3. I have stock fans and hot end. I’ve read the charts and only ended up confusing myself lol. Could someone please tell me which prints I’m supposed to use? I did two from the files already and they didn’t fit correctly at all. PLEASE HELP!!!
Read "Creality files to print" PDF carefully. make sure the names in the boxes match the files closely, I accidentally picked the wrong ones too. Very first column on the left is the bullseye that uses the stock fans! Good luck!
Question, I have an enclosure around my printer, and the few PLA parts that I have in there are warping. Should I use ABS instead?
You would probably have the best success with ABS. Petg might be in the temp range of your enclosure as well.
Would these be the correct files for a Tevo Flash with E3D v6 Volcano, 40mm hotend fan and dual 5015 fans and BLTouch , but Im not sure if that's the right file I need for the BLTouch!! …
Due to the back plate difference with the Tevo Flash there is a separate mod for it.
do any of these fit the cr-20
ender3, cr-10 and cr-20 are the same
10/10 fixed the parasite airflow in my ender 3 pro and it fits all stock parts, You only need are two M3 screws and nuts to assemble (stock duct screws can be used to mount )
Is there files for the CR10S Pro?
+1 looking for something for cr-10s pro. with microswiss hot end would be great.
Also would like to know what options are available for the pro. The cooling is okay, but silencing everything but the part cooling fan is annoying. Some help would be appreciated!
Hi.. i recently bought myself a 3d printer and from googling and youtube it seems that the bullseye would be a good idea.. i got the CR-20 which is very closely related to the Ender 3.. but im really confused about which bits i should print.. so hoping someone could help me out with the parts for my specific printer :)
You will need to print BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27.stl, BULLSEYE_DUCT_9.27...stl
If you have added a BL Touch, you will need to print one of the mounts. I printed ALL_BLT_LEFT_V7.5.stl for mine.
Then just follow the instructions in the install PDF file.
So I previously had the Bullseye with stock cooling fan installed. I now got a Sunon MF50151VX 5015 blower with Petsfang. I did an overhang test with same settings and I did get the same quality results.
I started the blower and noticed that the airflow is going more towards the back of the nozzle and just the edge of the flow is actually hitting the nozzle. The blower is definitely more powerful than the stock fan as I can feel the air is flowing at much higher rate. I have no way of getting the duct towards the front as the screw holes to attach it to the base are only adjustable in height.
Unfortunately I'm not near the printer to take some photos to show how it's like now, but I made sure when I installed it that it is in the same position as seen in your smoke flow video.
Am I missing something?
Any help appreciated
Hey I printed the Bullseye and I installed a dial indicator with your mount onto my Ender 3. Then when I homed it would crash straight into the x axis end stop cover/mount. It looks like I installed it correctly. The Indicator that I'm using looks like the one that you showed in the pictures. Link: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016R3GLB0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Otherwise I love the model and the improved cooling.
Just did a cursory search and wasn't able to find source files for these parts. Are they available? I'm in the process of developing a specialized z-axis sensor and want to make a mount compatible with this cooler.
Can I do that myself, or would OP need to design one?
You are welcome to design and add a mount to the areas that have hard point attachments on our bases.
Unfortunately that won't work for piezo z-sensors. The entire month needs to be slightly flexible and put pressure on, or bend a piezo disk.
See my mount for the OEM hotend for an example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3404715/
What parts will I need to buy if I'm printing for a cr-10 with a stock hotend and a 5015 blower? Also, should I use single or dual 5015 blowers? Thanks!
I printed v9.7 for CR10s. So far I don't see difference in printing quality between stock system and BullsEye. I tested it with water, and I do see nice concentrated air flow. I used this test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442722
Anything I should tweak?
Try moving the duct up. From your pic it looks too low. It will give a lot better performance.
Here is a video of the airflow.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43d2FfX51f0&list=PLrSJ-TZuC69z2SXe9VJomdm9E8hRe4-cC&index=16&t=0s
It's improving bridging.
Left is no mod, right is with mod. I used this test: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:606977
Hi, thank you for taking the time to design and share this! I have an Ender 3 pro with stock hot end and fans - which files should I print? I've read through several comments that state the Ender 3 files do not quite fit the Ender 3 Pro. Is there a version that does fit the pro? Thanks in advance!
Is the Sunon MF50151VX-B00U-A99 compatible with the Petsfang duct?
On various pages I've looked there are 2 dimensions written: 50 x 50 x 15 mm and 51.7 x 51.6 x 15 mm. On the other hand on the specs sheet on their site it's the 51.7 x 51.6 x 15 mm specified. I'm wondering if it won't fit:
It should fit nicely. 5015 centrifugals have pretty standardized measurements.
Thanks for you input, great to hear! I think these are the strongest ones I've found so far with a 5.4 CFM. I want to avoid using 2 as it will be quite overkill for printing PLA only. If you have suggestions what could be stronger in terms of airflow please let me know.
I'm thinking of editing the CR10 DUCT so that it can print without supports. Is there any reasoning as to why the overhanging flap at the top cannot be placed on the build plate? From a first glance, it seems that doing so would only make things easier.
The baffles inside the duct would not print very cleanly if it were inverted.
Please help im desperate whatever I try on settings it fails on second see photo
Hope you van help older model fang printed fine
Can you make a chamfer instead of a rounded edge
Things I've tried
Faster and slower
Higher and lower jerk
0.2 and 0.12
Tried settings from the orange pla profile you posted
Cura and s3d
Fan and no fan
Multiple filaments with precise calibrated values
What exactly is the problem here??
well franky as you can see the outermost perimeter on the 2nd layer doesnt make the bend and gets detached and same happens on the lower left the 2 lines you see laying apart from the model are the outer most perimeter and when its laying it down it wont stick so the nozzle pulls it into a straight line
Well that seems to be poor layer adhesion. Have you tried lowering your Z offset or raising print temps?
already printing on 210
and i have played with the offset yes
so i'm puzzled why that perimeter detaches itself
I'm having trouble getting the 3mm nuts to fit into the slots. I've read through the comments and I'm convinced it has something to do with my printer. I understand the hole is the exact size of the nuts and the edges need to slide in perpendicular to the sides of the slots. I've seen the youtube video and the pictures. So...it has something to do with my Ender 3 printing it. I uploaded my settings. I tried to follow the printing instructions outlined. I can only guess guess that my slicing tolerance needs to be changed from inclusive to exclusive, but inclusive makes more sense. That, or the extra 5% on the flow. Any ideas?
So after I posted this, I thought to myself, "If I have a possible solution, why not print it again with those minor changes." Ya, that fix it. Perfect fit now. Somewhere I here I saw flow settings changed to 105%, back to 100% solved it.
Glad you got it solved. When parts are printing too tight it typically means your extrusion multiplier is too high, like you found out. Try a couple of calibration cubes. You can get your extrusion multiplier dialed in. I have several machines that are in the 95-99% multiplier range to get accurate parts.
Which files do I need for my V6 on my Tevo Tornado with 40mm Layer & Extruder fans? Thanks
Bullseye for stock fans and E3Dv6.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=456328942&single=true
What is the offset for sn04 probe for bullseye?
Stock fans, etc..
Has it happened to anyone the hot end fan now doesn’t properly work so the filament gets stuck insire thr hotend bc it gets melted then cooled causing a clog?
I'm find that the M3x12mm screws are somewhat difficult to get without buying a large bag of them. Anyone had any luck with a store that carries them individually?
Is there a version of the Bullseye that works with the TronXY X5S-500?
Am I to stupid, or is the clamp for e3d V6 missing.
I find the Base vor e3d hotend, but i dont find the clamp to get it mount securly.
There is a 30mm fan cap and a 40mm fan cap. It just depends on the fan you will be using.
Oh, i see. facepalm :-D
I have the problem that my petsfang is deforming caused by the heat of the hot end.
I installed the v2 Petsfang on a CR-10.
Does anyone has similar problems?
Have had Problems like that.
My Solution was, to print the Parts from PETG. PETG is mor Temperature stable.
any change you can adjust the bullseye for this mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943915 - its a great printer but with bad cooling. a bullseye with a 4020 will be just amazing or a 5015, but 4020 are more durable. anything will make the raptor community more than happy as there are no cooling ducts out there and this bullseye are just the best.
I have Ender 3 with stock hot end. And I've printed dual fan (5015) and also ordered them. The thing is after that I saw your release note about it. You are saying "Use this one for 0.3mm thickness and 0.8mm or greater nozzle.) Still can I use your dual fan model for my ENder 3? I am usind level thickness 0.2mm and I have stock nozzle 0.4mm. Or should I print single fan? If you would suggest single fan model, should I use stock fan or 5015?
I'm guessing I can use also dual fan model with %50 fan speed but what are your opinion?
Thanks in advance.
I do not use the dual fan mod as I find the single fan cools the filament extremely well to .3mm thickness. Remember with each change of RPM on a dual fan you are increasing the airflow by 2. It will be harder to refine a good curve at lower fan speeds. I personally would use the single fan. Proper cooling is about correct balance and airflow direction, not volume. The dual fan will work but will be less controllable at small changes in RPM.
Hope that helps
then, which one is better in performance wise, stock fan or 5015?
and by the way I can not use dual fan model with single fan right? it will unbalance the flow?
You are correct. You can not use a single fan on the dual fan mod.
The Petsfang v2 with a single 5015 has the best performance up to .3mm LH. After that the dual fan mod is marginally better.
Hi, can you help me? i have stock fan and this hotend. https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Trianglelab-CR-10-Metal-salida-Hotend-Kit-de-actualizaci-n-para-CR-10-Ender3-impresoras-micro/32909386487.html?spm=a2g0s.90423188.8.131.52da263c0muugeE
Wich archives have i to print? thx and good work!
That looks like a micro swiss clone. Just treat it as a stock hot end when choosing files.
Any chance of getting an EZABL mount that goes on the left side? I tried the Hero Me for a bit but went back to the Bullseye. The Bullseye is a much better cooling solution. But on the Hero Me the ABL mount was on the left and I got a much better mesh and better first layers. On the right side the probe is too far from the left side of the bed and misses adjustments that are necessary for the left side of my bed. If you could add a probe mount that goes on the left, and provide the X and Y offsets for it, I would really appreciate it.
So much this. I have the problem on my ender 2 and think I have to switch away from the bullseye just because I cant get good bed adhesion on the left side of my bed. A version with the mount on the left would be great!
Uh.. I seriously think the Bullseye blower fan mount needs to be adjusted. I printed it out twice and both times the part came out a little too small to fit the Ender 3's stock blower fan and I have to almost completely break the mounting point just to fit it to barely fit.
Ok, for me to completely got the fan on, I had to break off that back piece of the shroud (as it was already bent from me shoving the fan into the slot) and screw in the fan from behind
I remeasured 3 of the fans I have and they are all within a few hundredth of a mm the same. The ear has a .4mm clearance, the width is a .6mm clearance and the length gives a 1.2mm clearance. Here are the pics from the duct fan entry with dimensions. The file names give the difference in the dimensions. I typically use a .2mm clearance around a perimeter. This has an even greater clearance.
I assure you the measurements give adequate clearance. We probably printed 50 of these prototypes on several different platforms and never had 1 not fit. We also have CR10, Tevo Tornado, Ender 3, Alfawise fan samples and they all fit well. There is a little more than .4mm clearance on the fan and the fan ears. I think you might be over extruding by a hair. Any more clearance in the design and you will have air loss around the fan.
I must be an idiot, but which files do I need to use for a standard stock Ender 3? I'm lost... Could anyone recommend the correct files? thank you.
Choose your hotend and fan choice and then just print the files below that column and any ABL mounts you need if applicable (in the lower area marked abl device mounts).https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=1441642341&single=true
Thanks for the reply. So if I haven't changed the hot end or fans in any way I should be printing: BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27 & Bullseye_Duct_9.27.
But had to cut BLTouch mount by dremel because it has not fit because of screw. See https://www.thingiverse.com/make:597585 attached photo.
May be need to re-design this thing?
Anyway thanks for this item!
When I thickened the arms I re-drew the right BLT but forgot about the left I guess. I'll get it adjusted.
Might be a dumb question so i apologize. what are the files ALL_SN04_X_Y-9_8.7.stl and MODULAR_V2_DIAL_GUAGE_left_side_9.13.stl used for in the stock ender 3 pro bullseye setup? I can't tell what they would be used for by looking at them. Don't have my ender 3 pro yet. Just trying to get things printed and ready for when it does show up. Not sure if I need these two items or not. Thanks
All the files in the lower section are the optional Auto Bed Leveling device mounts for the Petsfang/Bulseye including a mount for a dial gauge.
ok. confirmed. dumb question.......lol because now it makes sense and it should have before hand. thank you for the answer and for these files.
hallo, thanks fr posting this design.
i have ender 3 pro with Mk10 hotend.
which files schoul i download? or there is no option for me?
Have not tried it on the ender pro. I believe the stock Ender 3 files will work. I don't think the Mk 10 has a different dimension.
Is Bullseye Mini something new from the old Bullseye or just a new name for it?
Not sure what a Bullseye Mini is? Do you have a url?
It is in this listing by you. See the photo. It is referred to as "Bullseye mini," Is this just referring to what everyone else just calls Bullseye?
Just the regular Bullseye.
Will this kit be updated to work with the direct drive mod for ender 3?https://www.ebay.com/itm/173704864701
Realy love this thing, but I dubt it will fit after the upgrade :)
The only weak part of a Creality printer is the extruder. Why spend $30 on a new back plate when that same money could buy a Bondtech or E3D extruder? You would then have the advantage of a reduction geared extruder and a direct drive system. There are already a lot of tested options to adapt a Creality extruder to the stock backplate. We suggest going to an advanced geared extruder and using our direct drive Petsfang. This keeps more weight over the X-axis and reduces ringing and ghosting in your prints. We are working on a new Titan Aero Direct Mod called the "Evolve" that gives a 50% greater dwell time on the filament making excellent, tight bridges on overhangs at .3+ mm layer heights.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907538
and check out our youtube testing channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnuGY8mrjJg
After reading the installation instructions for the mounting of the stock Creality extruder to the CNC'd plate I really wouldn't recommend it. Trying to mount the extruder and stepper with just (2) 3mm screws will cause it to droop very quickly based on the moment/ weight and you will run into problems. It appears the designer just cut the plate to get the extruder to fit but didn't take in to considerations the weight involved. You need at least 3 screws to hold that stepper motor in place when extended forward of the buildplate. Prusa has a similar orientation on the MK3 and they use all 4 mounting screws. Using just 2 screws at the 0 moment takes away all mechanical advantage.
was unable to find any of your refered extruders to other than 3 x the price :D
And the backplate is allready shiped :)
Tnx 4 the reply though, I might consider a titan aero kit further down the line, but going cheap for now :D
Her is the Titan I use. Top notch quality and great sevice from Tim. $39
hi im new to 3d printing no the basics i want to make the petsfang for ender 3 pro but dont no what files i use its all stock any help be briliant TIA
Is there a 4010 version of the v2? I know that I should use bullseye for that but a 5015 is on it's way, but I don't want to disassemble the whole thing, print and change the base and shroud because of a fan change, I would get away with worse airflow for now.
edit. nevermind, found thishttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3175525
Hi I have a Ender 3 Pro
My Bullseye Mini base isn't fitting completely well.
-The right side hinges forward, and the bolts do not help there.
-The cooling body of the heatend has contact with the mini body.
Can someone tell me what i am doing wrong?
On the base, on the right edge, there’s a little lip on the back, make sure that lip is on the backside of the metal plate for the carriage, it kinda locks it in place once the left side screw is in
I did that from the start. Use the lip on the right side. The problem is that the cooling body hits the petsfang body.
It seems my of the ender 3 pro heatend cooling body is further from the metal bakplate.
Hi, I'm finding the E3DV6 5015 version doesn't fit on the ender 3 properly as the rear insets are aren't deep enough to clear the 2 posts. Have also found the thickness of the shell for the single 5015 duct much thinner than on some of the other versions including the double 5015. Is this going to be updated at all?
Creality has recently changed the height of those 2 posts. I'm waiting for one of their new backplates for measurements. In the meantime you can just cut them through. They are not used for mounting.
I had problems with the gauge piece in the ender 3 because my dial indicator was too short, so I created an specific offset for my dial to be able to use it.
hi guys i want this upgrade so hard, but there are so many options that im so confused , i had an ender 3, can someone tell me what i need to print, just make me any one that works well for you guys, i dont care if it is the bullseye or petsfang plz help
Choose the hotend and fans you are or will use across the top red fields. print the corresponding files below it that are applicable. If you are going to use an ABL they are in the lower sections under that same column.
Hope that helps
omg i think i get it, so if i want the 5015 fan with STOCK or MICRO SWISS hotend (Petsfang v2) i got to print all the pars under it? except for the optionals?
Make note there is a dual 5015 option under that tab. You don't need that file if you are using a single 5015. All the other files you'll need.
Slot for the M3 are way too small. Did you use standard m3 metal nuts? Is ther a version available without nuts?
If your slots are too small you may have over extrusion. You can either cut the slots with a knife, heat up the nut before you press it in or reprint. With a properly calibrated extrusion they will push in with your fingers or with a pair of needle nose. They should measure 2.6mm x 5.6mm. They are snug but will fit. Make sure you are matching the flat parts of the nuts and the edge of the square holes.
Hope that helps
Can I fit 4020 hotend cooling fan on bullseye?
The Bullseye was designed as a cooling solution for the stock fans only. It works with the 10mm Noctua but not the 20mm. The v2 Petsfang gives you the option to use non stock fans.
Hmmmm, i'm using a 20mm Noctua on the Bullseye and it fits just fine.
Love the designs! So, I just ordered the E3D V6 hotend for my Ender 3. I found the list of parts I need to print to use my 5015 blower. What I am not 100% on, are what fasteners I will need. The pictures you have depicting that information, doesn't seem to match up with what I am printing, or I may just be reading it wrong. Any assistance is appreciated!
Does anyone know if I can use a 40x20mm parts cooler with the Petsfang? I have a Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX in mind.
You can use a 40x20 for hot end heat sink cooling but a 5015 centrifugal is required for the parts cooling.
Hope that helps
Is the default extruder on the tevo tornado a micro swiss a E3DV6 or a E3D VOLCANO hotend
It is neither an E3D or MicroSwiss.
It is their own proprietary design.
I was wondering if anyone else is experiencing a vibration? I am using the Bullseye with stock fans and hot end.
yea, it kinda sounds like a duck call. Right? i have narrowed it down to the parts cooling blower fan. was wondering if there is some solution to this. i was thinking of redesigning the blower fan mount to use all 4 mounting holes for the blower.
Yes, I have noticed the fan makes a slight noise when the head is moving in certain direction/speeds. Hasn't seemed excessive and I have ignored it, but did determine it was coming from the material cooling fan AFAIK. The noise comes from right where the fan mounts on top of the duct.
Mine is not coming from the fan. Travel speeds 40 mm/s and below and no vibration. I am doing 100% infill prints now. I want to say the ones with the noise were 50% and 4 layers. Best I can tell the noise is coming from the area where the duct mounts to the base. It is most definitely coming from the duct/base because the noise wasn't there prior to installing.
I'm confused what I'm supposed to print to the machine I have the ENDER 3 and BLTouch
Pick the hot end you are going to use or Stock if you are not going to change. Then print the files in that column applicable to your ABL device. In your case it's a BLT. Decide if you want a right side or left side BLT mount.
Hope that helps
Is the part cooling fan (that blows air on the filament) rattling for anyone else? mine has got this annoying buzz rattle thing going on when the x-axis stepper motor is moving sometimes. Solutions?
Hi can i double check with you on a comment I previously wrote on dec 22, it previously got flagged because i edited it too many times.
The current draw is just a value of amperage at a particular motors RPM speed just showing electronic efficiency. What we want to look at is RPM speed and voltage. The 5015 fans you reference in your shortcut is an axial fan and will not work in my design. You will need a centrifugal. A 5015 centrifugal at 5,12 or 24 volts can put out adequate airflow for my plenum system.
Always buy the correct voltage for your system (12v in your case with a CR10) and choose one that has a top RPM of 6000 or close. These should produce 4+ CFM that is perfect for the plenum.
Hope that helps
Howdy! I am really wanting to get this upgrade for my Ender3 but am having difficulties knowing exactly which files to print. I have a stock Ender3 no alterations to it. If someone could let me know what I need to print I would be most grateful
Choose the hot end you are using across the top and print the corresponding files that are applicable below it.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=1441642341&single=true
I ran in to one more issue installing: the screw on the left side of the duct interfered with the BLTouch mount. I ended up shaving a notch in to the BLTouch mount to give enough clearance. Not sure if I did something wrong with the mount. This assembly is otherwise beautifully designed.
Did anyone have an issue with the holes being too big and not grabbing the 3mm screw?
The holes are bigger than a 3mm screw. It requires a nut in the slot to hold the screw.
Hi can you share the model of the fang prior to the bullseye. It is for a £D display in my classroom showing the evolution of the fang the one that supports the 40 fan
Im having the HARDEST time trying to fit my blower fan from my Ender 3 into the cover for the Bullseye, it seems that it came out just a mm too small (to the point where I almost broke my fan trying to force it in). I also can't screw in the two M2 screws that is suppose to hold the blower fan down because it's such a tight fit for the fan (and the fan doesn't go down all the way). Is anyone else experiencing the same issue??
I started the install last night and had the same problem. The mounting point on my Ender 3 Pro blower measures ~1.95mm and the slots on my duct print is ~1.75mm (quick look at the STL before I ran out this morning, I think it’s designed at 1.8mm so print is slightly off). Expect I can make it fit with some shaving of the slots in the duct.
I’m curious if the thickness of the blower mount points changed. My printer was manufactured very recently, I think the QC date on it is 27 Dec 2018
I think they did, I can't get the fan to slide all the way down into the slot so I can't insert the screws into the fan
Had the same issue, fixed it with a small amount of filing. As for the screws, make sure you're using the two longer screws. Push on them just a little bit to get them to stick in the holes then take your time screwing them in. Pre-tap them in before taking the blower piece over to your printer.
I can't do.. no matter how hard I try, the screws doesn't seem to get into the hole. And I don't have the proper filing tools to make it fit
Pick yourself up a good set of needle files. Should help you fix this problem and any future issues with fitment that's just slightly off.
This isn't something I can file off, the structure holes are WAY to thick for filing
Try the Tornado Bullseye the back plate for it is 3.2mm thick and the heat sink cutout is bigger to accommodate their heat sink which ids bigger than the Enders.
Just in case anyone is curious, the Bullseye doesn't fit the Ender 5. The piece of metal they have on the left that's holding tension on the belt keeps you from mounting this. I went ahead and modified the STL with a notch on the far left. Doing a test print now, if it fits i'll post it in remixes.
Update: Print and test was successful. Realized I'm not able to post remixes here so I've attached it to this post. Hopefully it helps someone out there.
so there is a ton of files. what do i need for the cr10 with a micro swiss hotend?
Printed the Bullseye and mount for a stock CR-10. Works like a charm so far but one minor issue. My stock nozzle fan that sits in the bullseye rattles like crazy when the X axis is moving. Its super loud. If I remove the fan from the bullseye and move the X axis back and forth it makes no noise. I added a layer of electrical tape between the fan and the mount seat but still get the rattle. Any ideas on how I can fix this?
I was also thinking of upgrading to a 5015 fan - Does the bullseye support this at all or would I need to move to the V2?
mine rattles too.. :/ figure anything out on how to correct it?
There are some adapters on Thingiverse you can 3D print
Really loving the bullseye on ender 3 pro. Just hit a hitch:
I've fitted a hardened steel nozzle to try some wood and copper I've successfully printed on my other printer, creator pro 2016.
The nozzle point to the glass is 2-3mm lower. The hoops on the side of the blower can go no lower!
Before I take a dremel to it, and ultimately weaken the bolt holder.. It would be great if these could be extended say 5mm UP in room to grow. It can't harm surely.
It's definitely the problem. I can't extrude with fan on, soon as fan is off it starts oozing out and I can extrude really easy.
(I can do this myself if theres a fusion file floating about? lol)
Edit: Used the dremel.. it worked! Managed to get it a few mm lower. Be nice to have it printed not butchered lol.
a) Why do the 2 center mount holes on the Bullseye E3D CR10 Base not have screw holes like the V2 does? It looks like it would just be an opening to fit on the backplate, but you couldn't put screws on to hold it in place.
b) If I modified the Bullseye fan opening to fit a 5015 would it still function properly?
Not sure what you are referencing about the mounting holes for the E3Dv6 Bullseye. It has the same mounting pattern as the v2. I used my v2 base as the starting point.
As far as the 5015 on the Bullseye.
We engineer plenum/ducts to fit blowers. We optimize cooling systems to match the flow of specific centrifugal fans. The Bullseye was developed for the stock fans on most platforms so people that were afraid to do any modifications to the electrical could have a cooling solution with all the stock electrical parts. The Bullseye would produce too much turbulence with a 5015 and will degrade its performance based on our CFD simulations. If you look at the CFD sims, in our pics area, you can see we have optimized the airflow within the plenum with the stock 4010 centrifugal. The v2 Petsfang was professionally engineered around the 5015 centrifugal and is a solid, balanced solution for that fan.
Cooling solutions are about correct airflow direction and balance of the airflow and not the volume.
Hope that helps
I'm referring to this.
The v2 was designed before Creality changed some of the dimension on those 2 standoffs and the thickness of their back plates. If the 2 standoffs interfere with the mount you can just cut them out. It is only on the new 10s pro and Ender Pro and Ender 5. They do not need screws in them. The holes are just cut to clear the standoffs.
What does the "40% support setting" mean? I don't see anything called this in Cura 3.6.0
In Cura there is Infill support and Support Density. Because it's a mechanical part I like to have 40% infill with at least 4-6 walls. There is one area of the print that needs support from the build plate and at a 40% Support Density it will print cleanly over the support.
Also, I can't seem to get the same support settings as shown for the Bullseye print:
Ah ok thanks!
which side do u print the bulleye on. Is there a way to print it without supports
It prints upright, with supports from the build plate for the best orientation.
The chart resolution is too small so i can't read it. Which file would I use for the petsfang on an ender 3 using a stock hot end, 40mm fan and a 5015 blower fan?
Go to his website, it has the files there full-size.
Is there an existing mount \ chance of one for the bullseye to fit the tronxy x1 mount?
Seems like you guys did some serious research here which we all certainly do appreciate. I was wondering if you can advise a recommendation for the CFM ratings of the 5015 and 40mm fans that you've been using. I know that the CFM can effect the way that the airflow travels out of the nozzles. Please and thank you.
Hi. Work for a10 (first version)?
I just have to say... YOU´RE AWESOM MAN.
Your design is amazing and it always fit... well done !!!!!
Thanks for this awesome design, I really like the fact you can tuck the EZABL very close to the nozzle. However, I have an Ender 5 and the backplate is longer on the left side. Are you able to create one for it by making the back portion of the E3DV6 part sit flush (instead of having the side protruding out)? I've attached an image so you can understand what I mean.
I have stock fans and a bltouch for ender 3. Will this work with stock fans and hardware?
The Bullseye will work with your stock fans and a BLTouch.
Hello! I'm pretty noob with ender 3 pro printer mods. I have the stock fans and stock hot end. Santa gives me a bl touch, so I understand that I need the bullseye, right? So, in the pdf file Creality_Files_to_print_11.3.pdf, the first column.
It is posible to use in this mod, the noctua 40x40x20 fan with the lm2596 DC module or dual noctua Fans? Thanks in advance
The Bullseye was designed as a cooling solution for the stock fans only. It works with the 10mm Noctua but not the 20mm. The v2 Petsfang gives you the option to use non stock fans.
Hey, i could i check that the cr-10 uses a 12v 5015 fan as it uses a 12v power source? If it does then how does this translate in terms of power compared to the 24V fan?
Recently i realized that I couldn't find any recommendations on what fan to get exactly, This got me thinking that the ampere value might affect the outcome. Purchasing the wrong fan may render the Petsfang with an efficiency below what you envisioned and tested for.
According to this producer (Ignoring the different design of the 5015 fan) https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1167/12V-or-24V-5015-DC-Fan,The amperes of the fan (Whether 12 V or 24 V) affects the airflow
I have already purchased two 12V 0.06A fans that are to be delivered. However according to the graph (in the link above - Albeit unsure of the reliability of the information and ignoring the design of the fan). Correct me if i'm wrong but if used a single 12V 0.06 A fan it would be underpowered compared to the 24V 0.07A fan (Which would have been the minimum used by anyone using a 24V fan). Only A single 12V 0.14A fan and above would be somewhat comparable to the 0.07A 24V fan used.
If all these ^ somehow makes sense and if i'm not mistaken (I might be -please correct me if i am! TBH not very sure of what's going on). Would you recommend that I:
1) Attempt using a single 12V 0.06A fan (As there might not be much difference)
2) Purchase a 12V fan with a greater ampere
3) Try the dual fan you made for Tim at T3HD with 2 12V 0.06A fans (Because a single 12V 0.06A 5015 fan could potentially be way underpowered)
Thanks!! Sorry for the long message!
Do these fan ducts work for the CR10S Pro as well?
Scrolled and searched through the docs and comments here but didn't find that anyone had recommended a brand or model for the 5015 replacement fan. How about this one?https://www.amazon.com/YOTINO-Printer-Cooling-Blower-Creality/dp/B078SQS6MX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545172548&sr=8-4&keywords=5015+fan
or do y'all recommend a ball bearing based fan for durability? Thanks!
I got this one and it works beautifully. Is variable speed as well.
Those would be a good. I actually ordered them to test.
Ok so I am having a bit of an issue. I picked up some M3 screws to these specifications. The Hex nuts though do not fit in the slots. I was wondering if anyone had a link to the screws they used so i can buy the same ones. Additionally I don't see a screw specification for the wire Strain. any suggestions?
Make sure you put a point of the hex nut in first. They fit snug but should go in holding with a pair of pliers.
Here is the orientation.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvRpjAfMmfY
A 2mm or a #2 screw will fit for the wire strain.
Yeah it was pointed end first. unless I need to smash it in with a hammer its not gonna fit. I'm wondering if the orientation i printed at had less of a tolerance and ended up with smaller holes. I printed it upright and only after saw your orientation recommendation of laying flat on its face. Now that i think of it though the holes would have still bee on the same axis. I'm at a loss. This is the second part in as many days that ended up too small. I wonder if i have a setting off someplace.
I had the same trouble. They DO fit. You just have to mess with them a bit. I even had to use some needle-nose pliers for some to push them in.
The square holes should measure 5.6mm x 2.5mm. The hex nuts I have measure 5.37mm x 2.1mm. I have heard of guys heating up the nuts to fit them, if their holes ended up a little small from over extruding. The size of hole I use is not arbitrary. It is the size on all the nut capture features on the Prusa Mk2 and Mk3. I figured if Prusa is using that size it must work. I personally have not had a nut that didn't fit yet on any of my prints.
Oh i believe you. You have tons of projects out there I have no doubt that you know what you're doing. I wasn't trying to say there was something wrong with your model in the least. just trying to figure out what I am doing wrong. I am going to check my extrusion, i'm pretty sure I have mine set to about 105% That might account for whats happening to these holes. Wont help me with the other part that was too small but that wasn't one of yours. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for the advice. Worst comes to word I'll reprint. Thanks for the measurements on those holes btw. I might just have some over sized hex nuts.
If you take a look at these pictures i got home and measured it. I am definitely on the small side. Trying to reprint with less extrusion. well see how it goes.
It was over extrusion. Thanks for all your help mate!
I am having a hard time printing this petsfang with my ender 3.Tried many different retraction setting down from 5-40mm/s up to 9. -70mm\s and still getting these web strings.Any solution?
Try reaching out to Luke Hatfield on Facebook in the Ender 3 user group.https://www.facebook.com/groups/Ender3dp/
He has a profile that will get rid of most of your problems. There are a lot of things going on when you have stringing like this. His profile has most of those ironed out. Stringing requires a combination of settings to be modified. Temp, z-hop, retraction, coasting etc.
i managed to print the petsfang to my ender but when i do stringing test i get worse results from stock cooling
That is pretty normal. You will have to adjust printing temps down a little and increase retraction distance and retraction speed. Just like any mod you add to your printer you'll need to adjust it to your printing characteristics. Try reaching out to Luke Hatfield in the Ender 3 user group on Facebook. He has a profile that works well for Bowden setups. I would give you my settings but they would probably not work with yours as I use all direct extruders.
Thanks for the suggestion but I already tried his profile and modified them for my prints but results are same I think it has some hint wrong either with this shitty Ender 3 or the filament I use
Just bought my ender3 and have no troubles with stringing, at least not like urs. be mindful that correct assembly helps with prints as well, and lvl properly, as the hot nozzle if a bit too close can melt layers and create stringing
Issue with the mounting plate: CR10_E3DV6_MANUAL_BASE_V7.5....the "mounting pins" on my Ender 3 are 4,7mm long, your mounting plate for them is only 3,7mm which isn't enough space for them. I cant mount it without a gap...might just be my printer but I thought I let you know ;)
Can you please design fanduct for Geeetech A10M? The standard one is very very bad and none of the downloadable ones work
I have to apologize. I am swamped at work and haven't been able to put any time into new designs at the moment. When I am free I will take a look at it.
Hello. It's possible to make petsfang vs and/or bullseye compatible with tronxy x5s? I only find old version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984806
Using CR-10S. The wire strain causes the wires/ezabl wire to bang into the extruder. I wonder if a 45% angle would be better?
Pictures would help showing the interference. The current wire strain at full motion left and right has 2mm of clearance. I am not sure what you are referencing on the 10s.
Attached is a picture to illustrate. The wires had actually somehow gotten caught between the bed and y stepper motor and ripped the mount off. Lol!
Hello, I have a tarantula with e3dv6. What should I print to fit the duct fan
I am sorry. There are so many base options for the Tarantula I have opted to only do a stock hotend mount for the Tarantula with the V block mount.
For the BL Touch on the Bullseye do I use the offset for V2 BLTOUCH -42 -5 or Left Modular v2 BLT Stock -48 -10
Im mounting on the left side.
Mounting the left (facing the machine) use the left modular -48x -10y
Thanks, I had a quick measure and figured it might be that. Y is always harder to measure I find.
Planning to use the Bullseye on an Ender 3, how much airflow should the 4010 Hotend Fan should have for sufficient cooling? Couldn't find out how much m³ the stock fan provides.
Stock fan provides about 1.7- CFM, this is what the Bullseye was designed around. The 5015 on the v2 puts out 4+ CFM depending on the fan you purchase.
I want to set this up for the Black Widow but using Elzariants modular brackets. What do i print to make this work?
I'm sorry. The only option for the Black Widow right now is the stock hot end with the "V" block optional mount by another author on Thingiverse.
do you know if petsfang v2 fit to cr10s?? i have e3d hotend, bl touch and 5015 fan
if it's the CR10_E3DV6_MANUAL_BASE_V7.5 mount, it doesn't, but if you drill out the hole cavity and put a washer and pan screw you're fine. Hex head as shown needs to get ground down, otherwise e3d will hit.
Hello. I've got 2 5015 fans and i would like to print Petsfang V2 with dual 5015 fan for my Ender 3 - to get good result with lower speed and noise. The question is - how should i attach those 2 fans - to install them in parallel with supply from original wires or should i get some additional supply from board? In case of original wires - will the supply be sufficient for both at 100%? Thank you in advance!
P.S.: 1st choise works fine.
Just standard nuts. Both square nuts and hex nuts fit. Make sure you are orienting them correctly before you push them in.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvRpjAfMmfY
Thank you. I figured that out after I posted. As you can see I tried to delete my post so as not to clog the messages. I had to insert them 'pointy' side first. Your attention to detail is amazing.
There is something wrong with the E3D V6 base, some part of it is not properly aligned and lets the hot end to be tilted.
I had the same problem with the BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27 for stock fan and hot end on my new ender 3 pro. After sliding the base to the right and into the back-plate, it does not fit into the groove. And if you try to do it forcibly, the screw on the left side does not align with back plate. I think the problem has something to do with improper measurement. If somebody can help, I would really appreciate it.
I assure you the measurements are correct. I have printed hundreds of each of these bases in prototyping. I have the actual machines these fit on and they all fit very well and are square. Send me a few pics of your mounted hot ends and I'll try to help you.
Yeah sure. Here are the pics. And thanks for the reply.
Do me a favor and measure the thickness of your backplate. The Ender Pro is fairly new and they may have increase the backplate thickness. You can also print the Tevo base it will work with Creality but has a larger cutout width for their backplates. The Ender backplate should measure 2.54 from memory. The corresponding cut in the base will be 2.84 after printing unless your extrusion multiplier is set too high. Take those measurements and let me know. Dave
You were right they have increased the thickness. The backplate thickness is 3mm. Hope this will help. Again thanks for the support.
Try the Tevo base it has a 3.3 mm cutout at the clip. When I get off work I'll create another file for the Ender pro. Dave
Hey Dave, sorry to bug you about this months later. I also have the Ender 3 Pro and am glad I saw this before I pushed the button on this print. Did you manage to get the adjustments made for the Pro? Or do you have any advice on what parts I should print in the meantime? Thank you for supporting this project so well, it is rare and appreciated.
Hi, I measured the backplate at my ENDER 3 Pro and I measured about 2.5 mm. (I am sorry for my english).
Ok. I'll do that. Thanks for the help.
Will there be a 5015 Duct for the BullsEye?
The Bullseye is a solution for stock fans only where an individual doesn't feel comfortable doing the electronic adaptations and soldering.
The v2 Petsfang is the solution for adapted cooling fans and will give you better performance than the Bullseye.
Got it! Thank you for the reply!
Will the fangs bullseye or pets work in the Geeetech A10?
I think the A10 backplate is the same as the A30. This should work.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993902
I'm new to owning a 3d printer. I just got an ender 3 and I'm trying to decide If I should print the petfangs or the Bullseye? Which is better for the Ender 3. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Do the Bullseye. I've tried a couple ducts now, but after putting the Bullseye on it significantly improved my ability to bridge and overhang angles in prints. Well worth printing, and only take about eight hours to make all the parts, and half an hour to put it together.
I have a problem
sx 0.20 layer, 0.16 layer
6 external loop
what can i do to improve ?
Try turning extruder up and slow the print down.
Can a 40x20 fan be used instead of a 40x10 with the Bullseye for Ender 3? Is there enough clearance behind the ducting? It looks like you're using a Noctua in your main picture of the Bullseye, but I can't tell what size it is. Also, how would you wire the 12v Noctua to the 24V Ender 3? I thought about wiring your LED light idea in series, but what happens to the voltage or power if the LEDs burn out or short?
Use a buck converter to reduce 24VDC to 12VDC. You can wire the converter to the fan output and then use 12V fans as well as LEDs that are rated for 12V as well. There are several YouTube videos that deal with this subject.
A 4020 will not fit. I made it especially for the stock fans only. We did some CFD sims with a 4020 and it blows too much air on the heat block based on the angle.
Thank you. Is there a light ring in the works?
Just stumbled upon this and I am impressed by the amount of work you've put into this! But what I like the most is the aerodynamic solution you've come up with! I would love to use this! However, my hotend is incompatible to all of what you've done.
I wonder if you would share the open cad files so I could make my own solution? I am using a very minimalist e3d-titan-aero-vulcan extruder solution. The stepper is directly screwed to the x-sled plate, which is also just a plate that holds 3 igus bearings.
So I guess you won't release a step file or similar? :(
Sorry for not getting back to you. I have been very busy with a large outside commercial contract drafting job. We are currently in progress with a new design for the Titan Aero. We don't offer cad files as our design is a CC No Derivatives license to keep the engineering involved in house.
I would also need the file ;), i want to make some modification.
Sorry we don't offer cad files of our designs. They carry a Creative Commons, No Derivatives license to keep the quality control of the engineering involved with our projects in house.
Alright, thanks for letting me know! Will have an eye on it!
Using fang v2 with dial indicator crashes into the x.
Hi, i have Creality Ender3, and i want to print and use your bullseye project.
i use bltouch, and i don't understand what file i have to print ( to use bltouch too ), can someone list me ?
Print the normal Bullseye components and the left or right BL Touch mount
ok, ty i saw the correct file
How do I adjust the ring mounting of the EZABL? The design doesn't have any hole for a screw, it's just a solid ring, whether it's the 13mm or the 18mm. Is it all just friction-fit, and won't that wear out?
I just ordered an Ender 3 and plan on installing this mod when it arrives, along All Metal Hotend Kit for CR10 Printers from Micro Swiss and BL Touch Sensor for auto leveling . I've looked at the chart, but I want to be certain if you could kindly link the parts that need to be printed it would be greatly appreciated.
I printed the Petsfang dual 5015 with stock hotend for my CR-10. It appears that the mounting holes on the base for the duct are for a 4mm screw. The slots on the duct appear to be sized for a 3mm. The screws that you will need image shows all 3mm fasteners. Has anyone else run into this issue?
The base has square cutouts perpendicular to the 3mm screws to install a nut so you won't ever strip out the plastic.
Thanks for the response and the great design! I really appreciate it.
I just finished printing and installing the Bullseye on my Ender 3. Great fit, and seems to work very well! Only comment I have is that the stock blower fan is now quite a bit noisier (due to a resonance mounted on the hollow duct I think) but I can live with that given the added performance. Anyone else observed this? If so, any ideas on how to improve the situation a bit?
I have installed the bullseye fanduct on my recent Ender 3. But I am not sure about the position of the duct relative to the nozzle.
See attached picture, with a view from the bottom side. Does this look OK? I was expecting the nozzle to be more-or-less in line with the center of the outlet openings, but it seems that the nozzle is really far to the backside.
But now I am looking at the video of the bullseye with the smoke generator test, it seems to be similar...
I can't tell from your pic but the outlet opening needs to be level with the insulation on your hot end.
Thanks! The height adjustment was also very well described in the PDF, that is fine. I was not sure about the position of the nozzle in between the outlet ports, in Y-axis. At first sight, the nozzle seemed a little bit far to the back, relative to the duct.
But after seeing the movie with the smoke generator,and your attached reference, I guess it is fine. First (simple) prints turned out fine.
Hi, thanks for sharing this awsome work. I have been using v1 for a long time on my CR-10, changing to an E3D/ABL combo now, and reading the "files to print" document - In the total download, I am not able to locate ALL_BLT_X+48_Y-2_RIGHT_7.5
Is it correct to assume the ALL_BLT_X+48_Y-2_RIGHT_8.8.. is the file to use instead?
Is it possible to use BullsEye on CR-10? The information has grown to become somewhat overwhelming. at least for an old fart like me with English as secondary lang.
Yes. That is the correct file. I apologize for not updating the info in my database. 2nd question. Yes, you can use the Bullseye on the CR10. It works really well if you are using the stock fans. Your v1 with the 5015 has better performance though.
Thanks for your reply, my version 1 where printed in PLA (my bad) it worked ok for quit some time, until it gave in, and become "deformed" - But - it performed realy well :)
Since then I have bought E3D hot-end from TH3D, and, well I will reprint all part in PetG on my Prusa.
I do not recall how i did print it, with or without support any tip on orientation and support?
CR10_E3DV6_MANUAL_BASE_V7.5 not fitting a CR-10S. Anyone else have this problem? Only way I can get it on is if I cut off the lip on the right side. After I do that, I have about a 1mm gap and a little bit of wobble in the mount. I wonder if the CR-10 and CR-10s have different stand-off heights because if I shave my standoff by about a 1mm it would probably fit. Current stand-off hight is about 4mm. Couple pix to illustrate....
So..... Is this a newer 10s? I'll have to verify that Creality is changing the thickness of their back plates on all their machines. They were originally 2.5mm when I designed the parts. I'll look into it. Are you wanting to use the E3Dv6 Bullseye? I can adapt that file and email it to you. Send me a request at firstname.lastname@example.org.
I wound up drilling the holes out and around the cavity. Used a washer for supporting material. It should be fine, prety solid. I did have to use pan head screws as the ones pictured hit the E3D hot head. At least now the mount fits flush to the backplate, and the lip engages solid on the right side. Thanks, no need to mod the bullseye mount for me. I'm up and printing again!!
Yes CR-10S, purchased about 4 months ago. The backplate is 2.5mm, but the two stand-offs/nubs (not sure the proper terminology - the thing where the 2 mounting screws go into), is 4mm tall. Take a look at the file I uploaded, 4mm shown there. Basically the 2 cavities in the mount part needs to be 4mm.
Ok I can try the Bullseye, will send you an email. Thank you!
Any plans to make bullseye for chimera?
No. The stock fan is too anemic for an advanced mod like the Chimera. My Chimera mod already has good performance. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2947851
Im having an issue i printed original file Bullseye duct 9.27 and broke 1 of the arms. So i have tried 3 times to print the 9.27.. And get this loss of location or just misprint!I have tighten my belts a bit just in case i was jumping a tooth, and 3 hr later the same started again in the same spot. i even tried Z hop with same results.
Figured out the problem and the cause, the table where I was printing was not stable. So while is printing the 50% infill, the speed and fast back and forth of axis made it jump or loose it place. Will add picture of final product as soon as its done printing. Z hop adds another 30 min to it.
Hi,i cant get this part printed.What am i doing wrong?
It needs supports. You need to print with supports from build plate only.
Hi. I'm having an issue with S3D when printing the duct. I noticed the slicing software has these extra filament lines going through and I cannot figure out why.
I'm printing the bullseye duct.
I haven't seen that before. It looks like nozzle movement lines?
Awesome design! Been using it on my CR10. I want to use it on the Ender 2, but is there a way to get some part cooling without adding an extra fan? I'm using another one now, but I'd really like to use the bullseye if possible!
I think the back plate is the same for the Ender 2. You should be able to use the Bullseye on it.
Thank you for this. I changed the base for my Anet A8. I hope that it's ok. I posted a make for this.
I will need to make some small adjustments for the duct after I will insulate the hot end.
First of all thanks to the creator for the job, but I'm a bit of a novice in this and I get a little lost, I have an ender 3 and I want to put a volcano e3dv6 and a fan 5015, which should print:
"VOLCANO_DUCT_V7.5" I have this clear, but then it is only "BULLSEYE_E3DV6_CREALITY_BASE_10.9" for the hot end or "BULLSEYE_E3DV6_40MMFANCAP_10.9", it takes two pieces for the hot end or that depends on whether I am going to use the adapter of the e3dv6 for the fan or not?
Thanks for the future answers.
The far right column is volcano. It has a single or double fan option you choose which one and download that duct file from the far left column.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=1441642341&single=true
Hi, i really like your design of the Bullseye Fang. Unfortunately it keeps breaking of since the elongated hole which connects the fang to the hotend mount is very fragile. I've had it breaking of on several occasions for example when the fang hit the clips fixing the print plate on the bed. I might try the the Petsfang which seems more sturdy.
You probably are not getting good layer adhesion.
Try a little hotter. 210 if you are not already there and slice with more walls and denser infill.
This video is picking up 10 lbs. through just the arm.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3-OT3ut9lo
Hi Dave, that looks really promising. Which material is that? I will try and print the arm solid. Let’s see how that goes. Thanks
This is Esun PLA+ in the video.
@dpetsel, excellent development! Thank you for sharing.
May I kindly ask you to develop one more duct: same as BULLSEYE_DUCT_9.27 but for the 5015 fan? Should be easy...
Thank you in advance!
Currently having trouble installing the E3D V6 CR10 5015 fan duct. I can't adjust the duct to the right height. If it's too low it knocks off prints, if it's too high, it doesn't blow much air to the filament coming out. Do you guys think it's way too low?
Move it up a mm or two. Here is a video showing the flow. Make sure your base is on real straight. It looks like the right side is just a hair lower.
Here is the flow video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Hfyh_BJ7Q
Thanks for the response! It seems like if I move it up an mm, the air flow would be possibly blocked by the sock. Do you think the flow would be blocked in my case? In your video, the duct seems to be slightly lower than the sock.
Anyone experiencing the blower part being too fragile?
Looks like you got bad layer adhesion. Here is a video lifting 10 pounds with the original smaller arms. It is a structural part. It needs to be printed with good layer adhesion and 100% infill if you are having strength issues.
Hope that helps.
Here is that video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3-OT3ut9lo
What setting do you recommend tweaking to fix it?. I am pretty new to this. I am using Ender 3
With PLA print 210 C temp. Print with 5 walls and at least 50% infill, rectilinear. Print speed 50. Still have supports only from Build Plate.
Should I put is z-hop setting?
Hi, is there any preferred side to mount a bltouch? I noticed in the files (and cheat sheet) that there is an option for both right and left bltouch mount. Any reason why one would want one side vs the other?
Most people mount it to the left. There are two positions in case you run into clearance problems with other adaptations that you have made to your printer our you my want to mount an accessory to the base like a Dial Gauge which will use one of the hard point mounts.
Since they are modular it gives you that many more options for mounting ABL's and accessories..
Sorry if I'm being a bit dense here but has the duct for using the stock fan on the Ender 3 been removed?
Looking at the makes section it seems to be the CR10TEVO_STOCKFAN_DUCT_V7.5 I'm looking for.
I removed the stock fan option when I dessigned the Bullseye. The stock anemic fan in the 5015 duct just wasn't the performance of a smaller duct designed for the stock fan.
Thank you Dave, at least I'm not going mad.
I have a 5015 on the way now.
With the Micro Swiss hotend in the Bullseye setup, whenever I adjust the printing temp midprint to lower it, the filament melts above the transition zone in a mushroom shape and jams the filament. I have to remove the heater block to cut and remove the melted filament (please see pics below). I thought it initially might be the fan, so I exchanged my Noctua to a Sunon fan, but it happened again. It's been about four times so far. Could the issue exist, because the fan actually blows above the transition zone? The OEM shroud is mounted even with the top of the cold zone, so the fan does blow on the transition zone, and it never jammed in that area. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a solution?
Do you have your retraction set way down for the full metal hot end? I'm not really familiar with those Micro Swiss clones but my genuine Micro Swiss uses about 2mm retraction and I've never had a problem lowering the temp mid-print.
I actually had the retraction set at 3.5mm/sec. how's your stringing printing PETG with 2mm/sec? I'll reduce the retraction to that amount then, no choice if the current settings are jamming the filament. By the way, my hotend is also a genuine Micro Swiss.
@dpetsel, thank you very much for clearing things up for me about the 4020 duct, I deleted that comment to make sure no one is mislead, Yeah i knew that axial fans are not great for pressure, but didn't think it would be that bad. Right now mine is around the same airflow as the stock, I will redo a new one that fit 5015. Do you have any other ideas to make this quiet? the blower fans are so loud at full speeds. or am I dealing with bad quality fan? my printer gets to around 55db just because of the fans. and the bower fan is the loudest
Make sure you set _#define_Soft_PWM in your firmware. It is under "Additional Features" It sends a different PWM frequency and will quiet your fan a lot.
Thank you very much, I'll do that. The printer is in my bedroom, so i need it very quiet, thanks again will upload the make ASAP
I'm not sure if you've been following our project from the onset but countless hours of professional engineering has gone into development. Because of this proprietary engineering we keep the duct CC Creative Commons with No derivatives copyright in house. We developed the Petsfang around a plenum based duct system based on the positive pressure that is produced from a 5015 centrifugal fan. An axial fan like your 4020 doesn't put out nearly enough static pressure to charge the plenum adequately. You may be putting your printer at risk with this mod. Axial fans in a plenum reach a point where the can no longer produce pressure and unlike a centrifugal they may overheat and fail. Our duct has been extremely successful and at no point will we incorporate an axial fan in the design. It just goes against all the engineering. Here is a very simple video why an axial fan is not used in a pressurized duct system. It just isn't efficient.https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7sqzw4/heres_what_happens_when_you_put_a_duct_on_an/
and here is a good white paper resource.https://www.tcf.com/resources/fan-engineering-topics/
Hope that helps.
Thank you very much, yeah it us my stupidity :) but always fun to try new stuff. Cheers
Is there a chance we can get the bullseye but with a signal or dual 5010 blower fans?
The Bulseye was professionally engineered to maximize the 4010 stock fan. A 5015 would be too much pressure for the duct to generate the correct outflow pattern, producing too much turbulence and would degrade the performance of the Bullseye. The Bullseye with the 4010 is extremely balanced for the 4010 and the performance is close to the v2. The 5015 requires almost 4 cubic inches of plenum to effectively balance the airflow. The v2 is designed around the 5015 airflow specifications. It's not about more airflow, it's about the correct airflow.
The mesh for the dualfan fang is broken, particularly around the areas where the tube between the two sides opens.
Could you please remesh and upload? or please if you could remove the tube between the two sides that would be much appreciated.
I checked all the meshes for the dual fan and can not find a flaw in the mesh. The tube between the two plenums can not be removed as it is an engineered feature to keep the positive pressure between the plenums balanced.
I've attached an image of the flaw with its location, if you import the mesh into meshlab/ solidworks/ solid edge / netfab you will find that there is indeed an error. I have tried to resolve these errors, in order for me to modify the file, to no avail. Currently busy iterating errors out but this has taken over 9hrs to solve thus far.
There should only be one mesh for the dual fan.
I have attached a detail of the mesh in Fusion. I don't show a broken mesh from the analysis. I also attached a revision without the filet if you want to look at it. It does print fine.
I see the flaw in the mesh. Have you tried to print it? It prints without fail. I have printed over 50 of these so far. I designed it for a company that asked for this particular modification and they have printed it successfully many times as well. I have also seen several people that are using it currently. I think the issue is the resolution of the Autodesk stl export. I work with Fusion professionally in my drafting business and have found it negotiates filets that transition into a flat areas too fine and some programs see it as an error. It does slice and print fine.
I have printed successfully, though I personally I would prefer that the front of the part have a flat surface that is in contact with the build surface, I am attempting to edit the STL so that the part may have no overhangs. But I am unable to do this if the mesh is not complete, the file that you posted still has multiple errors. stray intersecting face on the outside surfaces which are detected as volumes.
I have spent enough time trying to edit these files to no avail. I will be designing my own,
Funny you mention the front face. My original design for the Petsfang v1 had a totally flat face. The only support needed was the second screw for the fan, designed to a second plane for strength of triangulation.
I can understand that I need the flat face as I print with HIPs, its much lighter and quite a bit stronger than pla or abs or even petg, but I have a lot of problem with warping, and thanks to those fillets on the front face the two (i think you call them plenums) legs are constant lifting. I want exactly that but with two 5015s and both sets of mounts for the fans should be on the rear plane (where half of the mounts currently are)
Because of the transient vibration in centrifugal fans under pressure I put the mounting points on 2 different planes to use triangulation to hold the fan much more secure than mounting from 1 plane.
Dave, there's really no need for that, plus any proper preload would stop fastening hardware from coming loose.
I don't mean to disagree with you, but you are going way to technical for something on this scale. I'm gonna graduate from Uni with honors in mechanical engineering (majoring in mechanical vibrations) and I can tell without a doubt that transient vibration is not a problem if the proper mounting hardware was applied. Brass inserts or even pockets for nylocks would easily do the job of securing these fans to a printer.
I agree. I have a tendency to over engineer my designs. I know that 20% of the people using my duct will not follow any of the instructions. I have seen people use zip ties to hold the fans in place. Zip tie or wire to hold the duct in place. It only made sense to try to engineer around situations like that. I have been doing mechanical drawings for large firms on contract for several decades. I worked on the original design with a close friend that is an HVAC Engineer. He does airflow analysis on large venue HVAC systems and then comes in after installation to balance all the electro mechanical inter-duct baffles for proper airflow. The Petsfang is a micro version of his ducting suggestions and calculations based on the 5015. Once designed we were both happy with the solution. It has been a fun exercise.
Wich duct i need for the ender 3. I printed the CR10TEVO_2015_DUCT_V7.5 is it the right one?
The other part i printed are the CR10 stock manual baseV7.5
Those are the correct files.
I print Bullseye for E3D V6 and i have problem hotend is higher than stock one and my oryginal mounting for SN-04 ABL is too low. much lower than nozzle. Can You help me and redesign original file which You provide before for stock Petsfang v2? Everything else works grate!
I need to use such a mounting on the right side because on the left i have end stop.
Thanks in advance.
Send me some pics of your problem. The Bullseye E3Dv6 base has the exact locations for all previous E3Dv6 modular bases so I am not understanding your problem. Pics will help.
As You can see on picture original holes are too low and a drill new one (maybe a little bit to high) to be able to put sensor higher than nozzle. With original mounting sensor was to low. Air duct match very well.
Try this one.
Match perfectly! THANKS!
Can you post a make with the SN04 on it when you are done?
Sure. I will print everything in correct material and put together and post make. Thanks Again!
Thanks. I will print it shortly and i will let You know. As i can see that will fit.
Installed E3D Hex. And BL can't get to the bed.
The Hex uses the Volcano height of heat block. You can do one of to things.
What are the probe offsets for the BLTouch with the bullseye on a Ender 2 with stock hotend and stock creality blower?
Thing details, left side, "Offsets"
im having trouble inserting the nuts on the fan side of the bullseye enclosure, is there a specific way im suposed to put them in?
Try this. Make sure you have the nut turned correctly.
I have stock Ender 3. Is it possible to use Dual-5015 Petsfang with sn04?
Hi I've made for V6 and 5015 bower. But now at my Ender 3 nozzle is out of the center of the bed 14 mm how to fix this ?
You can either adjust your endstop on the Y axis to compensate for the forward position of the nozzle or adjust your Y offsets in your Eeprom.
How to add 14mm offset for Y axis in marlin ?
The file BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27, this is the one for all stock Ender3 right? For some strange reason, the hole on the side to screw the Bullseye is quite big for an M3 screw. Am I missing anything? Thanks!
In the square opening in the base you will need to install 3mm nuts.
Oh, so that's where I got it wrong. Thank you for explaining! =)
Hello, i printed out 5015/stock hotend version for my Ender 3 i cant find a good 5015 fan for 24VDC....any recommendation? In Europe.
Can someone please tell me what fasteners I will need to install the petsfang on an ender 3 that has a v6 with 5015 blower? I already printed out the parts that the chart says are needed for a v6 with 5015 but I can't seem to find what fasteners I need to install it.
Hey man, I am in the same boat, just ordered the E3d V6 and have a 5015 blower. Did you find out the info?
I printed the duct with six layers as recommended, but the top area of the print is weak and may need to be repaired, the layers have some gaps, and with a little pressure, the top of the duct caves in. I'm printing with PETG and tossed my second print of the duct last night, for that reason.
Did you mean 6 walls, not 6 layers?
If your duct is not closing up properly and is weak you probably have your extrusion multiplier set incorrectly.
Have you calibrated your extruder?
What slicer are you using?
I have the e3d lite hot end with the 25mm fan and adapter. Is there a way I can use the bigger stock fan
The 40mm fan cap will let you use the stock cooling fan that came with your machine.
Hi Dave, Would it be possible to create a support using the 2 screws here, so that the cables go straight up?
There is this one, but it comes out horizontally and it is not very practical -> https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5116513
In a complete solution with my duct I created a wire management solution. It frees up the Bowden so your filament flows better and with the cable management at 90 degrees it gives more clearance when you run up to full height on the top rail. This cable management also keeps all your wires to the left of the machine, keeping it well managed all the way up Z. Here it is. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
I will try, thx ;)
Which tab in Arduino, would that particular option tab, " _define_Soft_PWM" be under?
Also, how should I enter and where would I indicate the correct EZABL offset from the nozzle for the Bullseye mount on the CR-10S?
Just asking, for the 5015 fan is the capacitor install mandatory? What's the purpose of having it?
If you are using Marlin firmware and have _define_Soft_PWM enabled the cap is not needed.
thanks for this - one thing however that got me when printing the bullseye or actually installing it - is the two screws on the right which lock onto the plate side - I thought they would go behind but looking at the screw-holes and the groove that is obviously intended. I was wondering if a small angle that goes behind the plate underneath the cable guide basically holding the rounded corner may improve how it can fit?
The two right side screws are meant to be used for attaching an ABL mount only. I have specified 12mm screws and when attaching the ABL mount the 12mm screws will not touch the backplate. The video on the web by another independent Youtuber put these screws in to tighten the base and was an error. I asked him to put info explaining this error, which he did but it is a long way down in his comments. Do not use these two screws unless you are attaching an ABL and then use 12mm so it doesn't hit the backplate. The "clip" feature of the base holds the base extremely secure by itself an is indexed to the backplate to hold it square.
Damn - who would have thought and I was wondering myself already - so this makes complete sense now also why there was the mall offset ... let me correct that one - cheers
Thanks for the Make. I noticed in your "make" the duct looks a little low. There is a big benefit for running it tight to the heatblock insulation. The airflow is directed down and back. https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/bd/83/54/c7/dc/3d256b22cf314d8a0566ceb35ac3ad21_preview_featured.jpg
thanks for the hints - really appreciate it - I have taken it apart and reinstalled it - I think I saw that instruction but for some reason didnt pay attention to the un-insulated ... so I adjusted it to the insulation itself ...
Hi Dave, i have some suggestions :)
In the version Dual, you have to modify a few thicknesses and strengthen some places, I would like you to do the same for the simple version fan. I attach more explicit screens.
I noticed this because I broke the first version by screwing the right duct (and yet, I had pucks/washer)
Another thing, as I pointed out to you, is the possibility of using the touch mi (not possible currently)
PS: Sorry for my english, i'm french)
You need to print with more walls. I have somewhere down in the 1300 comments a pic showing those small attachment points supporting almost 5 pounds of shear pull. 2 or 3 walls is too little. Structural part need to be printed strong. Your 2 layers is too weak. Print it with 6 walls or 100% infill and those mounting points will be totally solid and will not break.
Can i remove this part ?
Is it needed?
You could remove it. I added that feature on the E3D mod of the v2 to help print the overhang of the round loft when you print it with a stock printer.
Several people were having that area fail because their stock printer couldn't print that radius.
That feature does direct airflow but on the E3D mod the bottom around the heat sink fits so close that it won't make much of a difference if it is not there.
PS. That cap prints well with that front surface against the build plate.
thanks for replay :)
Yeah i have e3d and im not so sure but i think it can add additional noise.
can you please add blower fan to fit bullseye ?
Hola, para la Ender 3 no existe mas el archivo con el extrusor que se adapte a su ventilador chico en la parte superior, lo podes resubir?
La modificación del ventilador antiguo en el ducto 5015 más grande ha sido reemplazada por el Bullseye.
Hi, I got the stock Ender 3 hotend but with a 4020 fan. Could u upload the fusion file for me to extend the duct for more room between the heater fan and parts cooling fan
We found that the angle of the fan and the relationship to the hot end would blow too much air down around the heat block and the nozzle with anything larger than a 4010. We ended up with too much fluctuation with temp settings with the larger fan.