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The Doorman

by Tjahzi Jan 12, 2018
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Question, I've connected all parts as instructed and the eyelids just open and close? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

This would be even cooler if you used something like a Pi Zero W and a camera instead of PIR. The camera acts as a motion sensor as well as tracker that moves the eyeballs so that they follow the subject. As well as handling the camera and tracking, the Pi Nano W would also stream the camera feed for someone to view or send an alert and a short video clip to a server.

Can anyone help with the electronic portion of this project. Where do place the Capacitors? Does anyone have a picture of there connections and wiring?

lol this reminds me of Andross from Star Fox

Hi, how are you connecting the caps? there's 4 wires in 2 "poles". Sorry, i dont have any idea about electricity.. Thanks.

What do you mean with caps?

Yes. At what position are the capacitors placed?!

Capacitors. I assembled it without capacitors and it works aswell

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HI, the ports 9 and 10 on the UNO do not trigger any movement on the servos using the sketch provided. Any advice please? this is my first Arduino project and I'd really like to have it accomplished

The ports 9 and 10 are myservo 4 and 5. If you read the ino, it only works to positioned at. once its positioned, it doesnt move anymore.

Ya, I have the same problem. :(

Hey, only saw your problem now. Did it work out or do you need any assitance?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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I designed and ordered a printed circuit-board that should snap into the arduino and allow you to connect the 5 servos and sensor neatly and cleanly with the wires connected to headers. I should have the boards in a week or so.

How did you get on with the printed board?

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Good job getting your 2nd design featured!

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
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So I was watching The Flash with my daughters. One of the antagonists in the first episode of season 5 wears a mask very similar to this. It looks like it was the same file mostly. I would share a pic but can't. The character's name is Gridlock. I googled "Flash gridlock" and the pic popped up.

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

troubleshooting code shared here
... need the = sign at the end for the link to work..,
I am still working out the mechanical side of the project, but the code was very easy to follow, I just used TinkerCAD to play with the layout, and deleted most of the code to focus on what I was troubleshooting mechanically.

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Hello, I have everything figured out, just my Arduino is always looping. If a PIR or just a cable is connected. Can someone help?
So currently after closing the eyes it will simply start the process after 10sec again. If I disconnect the wire from Input 3 it stops..

Sounds like your PIR is detecting motion, or at least sending the signal that it is. If you watch the serial output of the arduino when it's hooked up to the computer you can see the 'motion detect' text appear when the program is trigger by the pir sensor.

Thanks. Found out after running the code a few times it started to listen to the PIR. I think my board was reading some wrong inputs values at the beginning.

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Credit was given. Look at the remix section.

Modified the wiring diagram to match the code.

Do we need to solder the trigger mode selection jumper on the prox to make this work? If so, which one?

Didn't solder anything. Only used small jumpers for the connections.

Your link to Amazon shows prox sensors that require soldering. No jumpers possible. I found some with jumpers on Adafruit. Which setting do you use?

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Can you supply more details on the Capacitors you used? I am looking on Amazon, and there are several caps at 3300uf but the voltage what was the voltage spec you used?


I'm using 470uf capacitors, they're working fine with sg90 servos

most likely 5 volts

Voltage just needs to exceed what you are using.

Question: What is the component showing through the hole in his forehead? Is that an LED or is it the proximity sensor? If it's not the prox sensor, then where is that mounted?

PIR sensor, Passive Infrared

My solution to attaching the universal joint to the eyeball: In order for the top eyelid to clear over the eyeball, all of the support material needs to be dug out of the inside. I found this impossible to do without destroying the post. So, I just took out the post and drilled a 3mm hole through the center of the eyeball. Then cut a short piece of 3mm rod and fastened into the universal joint. Then pushed through the hole in the eyeball and adjusted the rod position so that the universal joint was flush against the inside of the eyeball when the rod end was flush on the outside. Then I used epoxy glue to hold it in position while orienting the holes in the eyeball with the axis of rotation vertical. On the outside round off the end of the rod with a file to make it flush and paint it black.

I was confused at first by trying to follow the referenced single eye project. Then I realized that this one has no bottom eyelid and uses the center servo just to open and close the top lid. Also, motion is only side to side with no up or down movement. This was clear once I looked at the code. Also, I had to redesign the bars to fit once the back was attached. Easy to do.

This is one of the worst written project Ive seen on thingi... No clear instructions, no story, no clear pictures... Just taken over project fom someone else and with affilate links on top of that. I dont understand why this is pinned as Featured. I would be very dissapointed if I would see this project as beginner.

This is NOT how you present project for others.

Sorry to hear that you don't enjoy the project. You can always pm if something isn't clear and I'll be happy to help you along. This project is far from perfect but it does allow even beginners to try it and make it work. If you use a little imagination and are not afraid to try and fail, this project will succeed.

Do you have a higher resolution pic of your wiring diagram?

No, sorry. Is something unclear?

I can't see exactly which pins to connect the servos from the picture, it is too small/low resolution.

If you click on the picture, you can 'view original' and it's much larger, full screen.

Thanks, seriously I've been on this site for over a year and didn't even notice that. lol.

const int servo1 = 3;
const int servo2 = 5;
const int servo3 = 6;
const int servo4 = 9;
const int servo5 = 10;

These are all the pins you need to use

That is helpful, now which servo is what?
Eyelids Open
Eye1 Left Right
Eye1 Up Down
Eye2 Left Right
Eye2 Up Down

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

The bottom, top and bars and servo mounts have errors, I have no issue repairing the files however not sure what the file is supposed to look like. On the bottom I take it there is no flat side hence the upright orientation for the print. Same for the top side (which obviously is not flat on any large surface)

What slicer are you using? I printed the top & bottom part diagonal without supports.

No problems with the arduino supplying power to all the servos?

There's an external battery pack with 4 AA's. Works for me :-)

Aw.. nice project! with 2 more sensors, one can probably mod this to get the eyes to look towards where the movement was detected..

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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good halloween accessorie

  • upon inspection of the instructable looks like the post is for the u-joint attachment?

Is the small post inside the eyeball a necessity and provides a function or no? Had mine break off when removing supports. Cool model BTW looking forward to assembly (sort of lol)

Yes, it connects the eye via the joint to the base. You need this component or you'll have to figure out another way to connect the eye. ( Had mine break off a couple of times aswel so be careful ;) )

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I see now in the instructables the u-joint at the back of the eye. Ok. How is it connected to the eye? I printed the eyes, no attachment noted. Thanks!

Super project! But!! Not enough information. Stl file not perfect. This project is excellent but it needs to be more fluid in the explanation: Step by step guide, wiring diagrams and detailed information about arduino.

Excellent thing!

Thanks! I'm not an Uberjoe, just an averagejoe. I'll update it when I have the time with more specific explanation & a step by step guide.

Hehe Touché!

I see LEDs in the code. Did you originally have this setup to also have glowing eyes?

Yes! haven't gotten the time yet to make it happen but I added it in the code.

shame on you for no video! great looking project though!

You can find a video enclosed below in the instructions or here: https://youtu.be/0KN21dYqdII

very intersting thing for my classroom: printing! Thanks!
Marc from France

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Do you have a video of this in action? I would love to see it do its thing :)

You can find a video enclosed below in the instructions or here: https://youtu.be/0KN21dYqdII

Great work!

Could you please post a link where you can buy the capacitors as well as the fritzing file or wiring diagram by any chance?

I salvaged them from a few old motherboards I had laying around. You can use capacitors that approximate the value I used and it will probably still work smoothly. I perhaps should have used a higher value too.

Are the capacitors necessary? Can't seem to find them.

Yes, without the capacitors the servos will go berserk each time they're triggered. They are to regulate the voltage :-)

Just received my capacitors which were rated for 25v, they're humungous.


Does your bracket include space for the servos that control the eyelids?

Yes, you can see in the included pictures how it's done. It's only one servo for the eyelids tho.

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The bottom wasn't flat. I had to cut off the first 1mm to get a flat bottom.

Right you are ;-)

So no rafts, no supports, and only 5-10% of the "first layer" is actually making contact with the print surface. So 90% of the face is printing on thin air?


I'm not sure how that is going to work.

This looks like something Michael Reeves would make.

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Very cool build! I love the "wake up" concept for the eyes. I've since added some chomping motion on the teeth, servo platform for head azimuth and elevation, and a camera with face detection (using openCV) which drives the servo to aim the face directly at the observer. Still only doing pupillary size response with the eyes. Maybe I can work on integrating that wake up thing with my setup. Thanks!

Thanks! Love your projects. Had the same idea with open CV & the servo but haven't found the time yet to make it happen. Hope to see you do it!

How long does it run on 4x AA batteries?

No idea. Would depend on a number of factors including how many times it's triggered. But I wouldn't count on it running more than a few hours

So do you power the Arduino and servos from the 4x AA batteries that you have listed or from USB?

I guess I'm confused.

Yes, It's running from the 4xAA batteries plugged in the Arduino. I understand the confusion, the graphic show a usb plugged in but that was the standard way it was portrayed in the program i used to make this visual.

Hello, wouawww super project, I try to understand the eyes mechanism, i don't find the "eyelids" in the files... thank you

Merci , thank you ! regards ( stay in subject ;-)

Hey Tjahzi, that thing is awesome. The Mask is already done and now I print the other parts. I'm so excided to see it in action.
Just one question, how far away does the PIR recognise movement?

Hey Hey, depends on the light conditions i think. Max I got out of it was 1.5 - 2 meters.

Good Luck! Glad you're enjoying it :-)

Reminds me of some versions of A Christmas Carol where, early in the story, Scrooge sees his door knocker transform into a face.

Way beyond cool. This thing is awesome! Now what we need is a moving jaw, eyebrows and a hookup into a customized Google AIY and the doorman can tell people who should not be at your door to go away and those who should to 'hold on, I'll fetch the residents...'

Ok, maybe just a way to speak to them through the doorman from inside.....but the eyes are perfect!

Yeah! Mark II should have a speaker + mic and wifi connection.
Should be epic!

Very cool. Can you post a picture of how you set up your wires for the eyes? How did you get the 5th servo to control both the upper and lower eye lids?

it's done :-)

By the way.. i think Eye_holder_main.stl is broken..
tried to slice it with cura.. didnt work. fixed it with solidworks. If anyone has the same problem:
here is the fixed file.
scale is at 0.1%
because i messed up with converting Meters and mm.. sorry :3

Having the same issue. Scale is huge. Suggestions?

I also had issues with original part - it did not print well.
The fixed one is ok - but I had to scale it down to 0.10% :D

strange. Worked for me, thank you for that !

Pretty cool. Tried to print the face, but it doesn't align with the bed - at least not on my system. The sides touch before the chin. need about 5 layers (or about 1mm) before all of the base shows up. My software does have a auto align function, but it still couldn't get it flat. Rotating it just moved the gap from the back to the front. Could be my software - but trimming off about 1mm from the bottom flatten it out.

Can you post an link here to the servos, the PIR sensor and the universal joints?
Would be so awesome ;3
Greedings and good job!


You mean a link where to buy them?

jea if possible :3

Check the description :)

Hello.. i'm really interested in this project and decided, even with my ignorance of arduino programming an electricity in general, to build one. There are some questions about the doorman. In your file you didn't add the hole in the upper face for the PIR sensor. Do i have to make it my own or do you own a file with it? And the capacitor you describe.. Do i need a 3300uf 16V or 3300uf 6.5V?? I really hope this works...

I drilled in the hole afterwards. First plan was to put the PIR sensor in the nose, but that didn't work out well.
As I understand it, a 16v capacitor will work fine too. The voltage on a capacitor is the maximum load it can handel so for this project it should be at least 5V but preferably higher.

Good luck :)

Holy hell, that is one creepy dude! Awesome :-D

I would print it and put it on my door... but i dont want my guests to have a heart attack.

Very nice! I had an idea to design something like that while ago, but my idea is to use a camera to track movement and make the eyes follow the movement. But I never put my plan into action. You made a nice design!

thanks! I want to build one like that too. There's some tutorials on using a Raspberry Pi to track motion but I haven't come around to doing it myself aswel.


printing takes 5 - 8 hours, depending on your speed settings.

awesome product how long did it take you from start to finish?

awesome...ow long it takes .. i am with gosuroot