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T-Rex Skeleton

by MakerBot May 17, 2016
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I read the comments and see that everything is increasing in scale. someone typed 1: 1 and on anycubic ultrabase? I do not have enough adhesion when printing pla and temperature of the table 60 * C

Does this print without supports?

I'm seeing this and wondering what is the largest part to print to size? I only have 150mm cube print space and i'm not sure if I have the space to print a 100% scale model of this. I'm worried flashprint is scaling the parts to fit the space.

Hi Everyone,
I tried SO many times to print the 'arms' (they are first on the list) with my new Ender-5
Tried with support, with raft, with adhesive, shell reccomendations and even split to left and right hands in different files.
I spent so many hours and effort and frustration.
Then came the breakthrough, I purchased the SIMPLIFY3D software, and withough any further tweek I printed at first 'medium' quality with black PLA, liked it so much and then changed the color of the PLA to white and started to print the pieces in 'high' quality. I have not even printed a third if what needs to be printed, but it looks great !
Sharing the photos, and I will update as I proceed.

What were you using before you bought SIMPLIFY3D?

wish there a was a raptor one like this

Is the skull portion the exact same as the other Makerbot model or just the skull? I want to do the full skeleton now but I already have a massive skull that I did a while back with the other model.

Here she is! Printed in PETG at 150% normal size, total print time around 120 hours, not counting failures.

Just curious why PETG?

It was one of the projects I chose while becoming familiar with printing PETG. I had printed some single-piece sculptures before, but the T-Rex looked like an opportunity to find out if I could tune to prevent stringing while printing multiple parts, which I never could.

Also, PETG is very tough. When the layers bond correctly, printed parts bend rather than break. I use it mainly for low-speed, high-torque gears, or cases that must be tough.

It's great! Very good quality! Do you post some information? (printer,settings, etc)

Your model came out very nice, thanks for sharing your photos!

I did not save any .3mf project files, so i cannot produce the exact settings, but i can tell you that I printed using Amazon Basics PETG, printed on my Ender 3 with:

Bed temperature of 100 C
Nozzle maxed at 260 C
Print speed of 30 mm/sec
Retraction 4.5mm, Speed 25 mm/sec
No Z-hop.

I printed EACH rib separately because I could not get the PETG to stop making strings, which cause the print to fail every time. ABS does not cause such problems with stringing.

I ended up editing my G-Code manually to slow the printer down as the print got taller, which helped the longest ribs print so nicely.

The very slow speed made such nice prints that I threw away parts that printed successfully before, but did not look as nice as the slowly printed ones, so I re-printed these and the whole model came out very nice.

Hi, I am printing this in ABS, is almost finished. I just have to print the ribs and the last tail segment, here I had some problems with the ABS not cooling to fast. Can you share some details about this g-code editing.
Thanks ,

Great job!
For help, I found some pieces that the slices has given errors: femur, tail A-C and Hip-top. But I have recovered them, and soon the t-rex will be ready.
Thanks a lot!

What is the error you found in the Hip-top file? I've tried 3 times and it keeps failing on the left side when the two "islands" start to bridge or something. I may try a brim on my next print.

Sorry... I don't remember. I solved it with the Meshmixer applicattion.

i failed a few times on the hi top also I did a raft and enabled z hop AFTER i repaired the filed in 3d builder

I had a feeling z-hop may be an issue. I'll have to check if I have it enabled. It only happens on the one side which is weird. Thanks!

Right Now I'm currently printing this model with a 200% scale on my prusa mk2s. So far I have ran into zero problems other than mesh mixer failing to load the upper hip file following with a hard crash. I also had to rotate that part since it was too tall for my printer, while all the other parts fit, including the base.

thank you very much for the model! i printed it in standard resolution. as my ribs kept failing, i placed a custom supportblock with cura on the bottom part like shown in the picture. "generate Supports" is off, and print speed is turned down to 20-25. that way all ribs printed fine since they had enough adheasion to the bed!

oh and superglue was my friend to make the model stable;)

Could anyone tell me what part is the largest? I'll be printing on a fairly small printer and will want to go as big as I can but need to know what to bass it off of. (Monoprice Select Mini Pro)

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Has anyone figured out the best print settings for the Ender-3 on Cura? I have been really struggling with printing the parts. The only ones that have come out were the skull and the two base pieces.

I ma printing at 150% - any help or insight would be amazing. Thank you!


What is the biggest scale suitable for an ender 3 ?
Thank you

I am printing this model on my Ender 3 at 150% size and 0.12 mm/layer, but I had to import the combined parts into Meshmixer to separate the combined parts into separate shells, especially the 22 ribs (and ESPECIALLY rib 5 left and 5 right), and adjusted my Cura profile to 60 mm/sec (40 for the ribs but at around 15mm/sec toward their tops; 80 mm/sec all other parts) because I am printing with PETG (before separating the ribs, the print failed 7 times). It looks like that this model will end up being around 3 feet in length when it is finished, and I will post the result. I am now at around 92 hours into the print, completed the skull, jaw, neck, dorsals A and B, 22 ribs, upper pelvis, currently printing the lower pelvis. The slow speeds are producing velvety-smooth parts requiring little to no cleanup, and looks like it will consume aroung 1/2 Kg of 1.75 mm filament (not counting the print failures for the rib cage), and am using Gorilla super glue for assembly. It should be an impressive model when it is complete.

Also, even at 150%, no support material is necessary since my settings for PETG use variable fan speeds at the overhang and bridged slices. The filament thread lays out with a small amount of droop when the outer shell is traced, but the fan (30%) causes the plastic to "pull-up" flush, supporting the next layer.

I suspect that printing with PLA would give far fewer problems, but when I abandoned PLA for ABS and PETG, I never looked back.

This sounds like a fairly sophisticated Cura profile - would you mind sharing?

It was a matter of "brute force", manual editing of the G-Code, counting layers using search-replace of the print speeds with lower speeds at the higher layers, otherwise I would have had to babysit the print in progress and make manual tuning adjustments. Now I have Octopi running on all three printers, so I can babysit remotely.

No magic there, but I wish the slicer would have allowed a diminishing speed setting (the "reverse" of the lower speeds for the bottom layers), which would have saved a lot of time.

The same goes for the fan speeds; PETG typically doesn't require cooling (although a heated chamber does help, as with ABS), but for this model it was helpful (no more than 30%) toward the tops of the very tall and slender ribs.

After getting a successful (and beautiful) print on the long ribs, they looked so nice that I discarded the ones I printed earlier and re-printed them (hence the 120 hours of print time).

The earlier ones had strings and clumps leading to a lot of cleanup scars, and they seemed acceptable at the time, but they looked like trash after the perfect ones came out.

This is where I learned the disadvantage of Cartesian-framed printers, since the Y-Axis (bed) moves, the top of slender prints shake more as the print gets taller, which is why slowing way, way down toward the tips became necessary for good prints on the ribs. Delta printers use a fixed bed, so are immune to shaking tall, slender parts.

Printing the ribs is a very hard work. At scale 100%, I failed some times for print it with my ender 3. But at lower speed, the results are acceptable.

I'm currently printing this at 150% scale on a Moai SLA machine at 60um resolution, and the parts are coming out absolutely beautifully with no modifications. Some parts like the leg bones don't even need supports. The only thing I can't print is the stand, because it's too large at that scale without chopping it up. So I'm going to mill a wood stand on my CNC machine out of some nice hardwood. This is a very fun project so far and I can't wait to post the results.

Before printing the Lower Hip Bone, upon slicing with Cura, I studied the layers where it begins to bridge the columns. I noticed there is a point in which it creates an island, where, without supports, it would have to supernaturally float. If it was just a case of it dripping some wasted filament in an open location and that was it, then it wouldn’t have a big deal. But, it begins to build on that island an even more complex arrangement of lines. This may be minuscule in size at first but in the long run it would create a disaster from my prediction. This problem may not cause much more than a discrepancy in the original scale, but, if you plan to scale up the model, I cannot see how this could go unnoticed. This is an example in which I cannot take a risk, because I am going 280% scale. I do not understand why I see little discussion over this bone, especially from people who have enlarged it. I personally have decided to use supports. I set it at 75%.

This is a well done model. I am printing it at 400% as a large garden gnome in both white and natural PLA. Still researching how to paint it to sit outside. It does take a bit of filament as I am about 70% complete and will have to place another 10Kg roll on very soon

I did end up creating my own H clips for the two parts of the hips as the model ones didn't work being too small


Can you upload picture from the final assembled model?


At 400% he has back issues that have kept me from finishing him. Spring is a ways away, so, it isn't like I have really been on it anyway. I have tried glues and Devcon epoxy and both have eventually broken on his spine just forward of his hips. The Devcon held for weeks though. The tail has not been an issue. I have a 36" 1/4" steel rod with fender washers that I will be Devcon'ing into his back for all vertebrae with ribs and down into the hips in the coming weeks. I will have to break the tail off at the back of the hips so that I can get entirely through all of the vertebrae. The tail is just super glued on right now and has held, but, all new joints will be Devcon as it is noticeably stronger. When a Devcon joint breaks, it is the plastic giving way

Great model. I'm printing this in white PLA but what is the off white colour i've seen it done with? It looks more like natural bones.

I'm using "Paramount 3D PLA (Pantone 7502C Skin - Universal Beige)" and it's a very nice bone color.


How much filament are use to print everthing ??? And great job ;)

Un très très grand merci à vous ; félicitation pour votre travail .
Je suis super fan de ce T-Rex .


Quelle hauteur de couche et remplissage avez vous utilisé?

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très bon print a recommander rien ne manque j'aurais une demande ce qu'il auras d'autre squelette de dinosaure comme un velociraptro merci d'avance


Quelle hauteur de couche et remplissage avez vous utilisé?

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what are those little connectors to join some of the pieces?
are they printable?
and also, i will print these in ABS then i will acetone vapour bath it. is that fine?

I love the model, have been printing it on my XYZ DaVinci 1.0 Ai0 for my granddaughter, but I'm having a heck of a time with the brittle ribs, which snap even when I am gently removing supports, and when I am gently inserting them into the body. (I use raft and supports, By the way.) Any suggestions on what my print settings should be to make the thinner parts stronger? Thanks in advance.

Hi Rob!

I'm not familiar with the DaVinci, but I found that supports caused more problems than they solved. I'm printing with PETG plastic, but I assume this to be true of any material, and I ended up importing the left and right rib cage into Meshmixer (free from AutoDesk) and used "Edit - Separate Shells" to make a file for each rib (22 files in all) using NO supports, and slowed the print speed WAY down.

The ribs, especially ribs 5 left and right, are extremely tall and slender, so I ended up printing each one at around 15 mm/sec near the top, with 100% fan toward the very tips. This produced perfect ribs with no strings and no nubbins to clean, allowing them to be separated from my build plate at their bottoms (tops?) without the danger of snapping them off.

Average print time for the ribs was around 1 hour each; less for the shorter ones, a little more for the longer ones, but those that I printed using these settings looked so good that I scrapped the odd ones I had previously printed "successfully" in various, mostly failed batches that had strings, nodules, and extrusion interference.

Hi Rob!

I'm not familiar with the DaVinci, but I found that supports caused more problems than they solved. I'm printing with PETG plastic, but I assume this to be true of any material, and I ended up importing the left and right rib cage into Meshmixer (free from AutoDesk) and used "Edit - Separate Shells" to make a file for each rib (22 files in all) using NO supports, and slowed the print speed WAY down.

The ribs, especially ribs 5 left and right, are extremely tall and slender, so I ended up printing each one at around 15 mm/sec near the top, with 100% fan toward the very tips. This produced perfect ribs with no strings and no nubbins to clean, allowing them to be separated from my build plate at their bottoms (tops?) without the danger of snapping them off.

Average print time for the ribs was around 1 hour each; less for the shorter ones, a little more for the longer ones, but those that I printed using these settings looked so good that I scrapped the odd ones I had previously printed "successfully" in various, mostly failed batches that had strings, nodules, and extrusion interference.

This model does not need support!

first off, stop with this version and go with T-Rex Skeleton fixed and printable

The quality of PLA does wonders for this guy, I tried with Inland without any luck. I printed mine with makergear pla and the parts are much stronger. Quality of your printer will matter also. My Anet A8 was no match for it.

good luck and have fun

Since its come up a few times in the comments, I decided to post a remix of the base with the two halves merged.


T-Rex Skeleton - Base Parts Merged
by Gelap

Nice idea, however this doesn't work very well if you tried to print it. Your resculpted model has too many polygons and the walls are very unsmooth. The result is that the printer vibrates terribly and prints walls very slowly because it's constantly going in and out by micro steps. This will reduce the printer's life. Check out my T-Rex Fixed and Printable thing where I merged the two base pieces and removed internal structure (well, most of it) but retained the original geometry. It prints much more smoothly and hours faster.

How many pieces should you print of each of them?
I would like to have all the pieces before mounting it
a greeting

You say anatomical correct? Well I can tell you from start that its missing several bones! They had bones (gastralia) under the ribcage too!

It should be known as well that the hands are pronated, which its incorrect unless it has broken wrists.

How many grams in total is this? I'm trying to figure out the total about cost in filament.

Mine is 250g. Base and all.

Wow! This model has to be one of the best one to print if you wish to showcase your 3D printing chops. (Another model worth printing is the Agisis Ultimate Alien Face Hugger). I've just spent the weekend printing and putting together this beast.

I think the 'No' for Support in the Print Settings is misleading as there are some serious overhangs in the model. My slicer of choice is Cura and I've printed mine in white PLA. Settings are 0.15mm resolution; 15% infill; Support Generated - touching build plate only, 15% density, overhang at 60 degrees, 'line' support pattern.

With the above settings, all my supports just snap off by hand with no sanding. Also whilst printing I tend to dial down the extruder temperature (minus 5 degrees) after laying down the first few layers as this ensures the supports do not 'fuse' with the model, making removal difficult.


could someone please adjust the exact settings for Cura? Do you use props or anything without printing?

I printed this in glow in the dark green and it is a fantastic model!!! It is a conversation starter thats for sure!

What is the name of the filament you use, and the name of the color ?

This seriously prints without supports? I printed the skull and neck with supports and what a pain to remove. Going to try rest without supports

I printed with supports, it takes some finishing but the model is well worth it.

Honestly your best model. And its a miracle how this can fit on my printer.

I've tried to print but at least a couple of the parts have issues. Two of the larger spine segments have up to 1mm gaps and the tail segment B_D fails to print more than the first three segments of B ... I believe as others have suggested it's due to the connection holes.

I'll see if it can be repaired in something like MeshMixer but I may end up just printing the skull and jaw.

I've made some progress by putting the parts with gaps in through MeshMixer and converting to solid. Most of the spine I find prints better with a 5 to 10mm brim with tail part C needing supports or it fails on my Prusa I3 MK2 half way up. I hope to be able to submit a photo of the completed project soon. As others have reported I separated out the tail parts into to individual files to print separately.

Progress has been slowed due to issues printing the ribs. When I tried to print each set of 11 ribs with just brim there is so much flex in the ribs towards the top the result is unusable. When I added supports I found the constant retractions caused extruder issues but only printing the ribs. So I finally decided not to waste any more filament and used MeshMixer to separate all the ribs out into individual files and then grouped the back into four sets of four and two sets of three inside Slic3r after changing each rib with sufficient X and Y rotation to make them as horizontal as possible.

This means more filing and sanding but the results are promising.

Tuve q reímprimir varias piezas pero todo salio bien

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I am printing this at 150% scale. One part of spine has the issue due to rectangular hole inside, which is added for connector. I am not sure why author spent all this extra time creating those clips and openings, when all these parts are not mobile and can be easily just glued together and it is a better way of connecting them anyway and less work for everything. Also the jaw is not wide enough, I printed it 2% wider and it is still barely touching the skull connectors. So i recommend printing the jaw at least 3-4% wider if your software allows that adjustment.

I am still in a process of printing this in glow filament. Awesome project!

How many grams does it way?

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Are the little arms possable? Or is that the way they have to be? Or can I move them so they are up thanks.

I'd suggest printing the h-clips at 100% infill and add a wipe for each layer for strength and adhesion. The h-clips don't seem to hold their shape otherwise.You can always just use glue join the parts together too :)

That's what I thought. Not sure why author spent so much time doing this clip mechanism, when you can simply glue all together, which is also better.

is this the same ratio size as the skull only?

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Hello, do you have the base in 1 piece too?

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u where in 8999 colections so i collected it and now u have 9000 ure welcome :) \m/(^_^)\m/

What filament you guys recommend for this? I can't find any color that match. The only one i found was wood filament

I'm using Paramount 3D Pantone 7501 C Ivory PLA and it looks great so far

Nice choice. Depending on what folks think dinosaur bone looks like when it doesn't look like a grey rock, it may be a bit yellow , but the ivory filament has the advantage of being a little translucent, like, well, ivory. If the reader is interested in a picture of what the color looks like when printed, I've used it for bone in this make of reddadsteve's "Wilma Flintstone" - the bone she's leaning on: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:391936 and as the base of the mushroom in my make of his "Mad Hatter" : https://www.thingiverse.com/make:492815 - remembering, of course, that you're seeing your monitor's representation of a jpeg rendering of a photo that I took under unstated lighting conditions. :)

Me? I'm looking for one with flesh on it. Jurassic Park style.

Wilma Flintstone
Mad Hatter

Check out Paramount 3D. They have Pantone matched colors in several beige tones in PLA. Also, 3D Solutech and Hatchbox Beige PLA. Push Plastic carries a color called Desert Tan that is nice.

I am planning on printing this supersized (375%). Currently I am adding supports in Simplify3D, but I wonder if it really is needed, what do you guys think? (currently looking at 3% infill and 4 walls)

I am printing mostly without any supports at all. 0% infill mostly. 3 walls.

I'm doing 150% and had not needed to use any supports. About the only items I had problems getting a good quality print from was the ribs had to separate them into single units and the tip quality on the ribs came out garbage on over half of them which might just be a issue with my printer I am not entirely sure. On the Arms I had to use a brim as they just wouldn't stay upright on my bed and I separated them as well to print as a single unit all done in simplify3d. This can be done by going into mesh and select separate connected surfaces and it will turn everything into single item prints most of the time.

I printed the skull twice without supports and got terrible overhangs; rough and irregular. As it built the arches the tip of the partial arch would curl upwards and really throw off the print. It literally threw it off the bed once when the nozzle caught it. I'm a newbie so there is any number of things I could have done wrong. I had my print retraction too low to start and got terrible blobbing. Making it larger reduced the blobbing. The next print I'm trying supports to see if that improves the overhangs. I'm using a Printrbot Metal Plus and Cura 15.04.3., generic PLA at 205º, 40mm/s, etc.

I had similar issues with some of my parts and this is more of a cooling issue I found then anything else with supports. This stood out specially on the parts that had a angle to them. I semi corrected this by rotating the part so that the cooling fan would hit these elements and allow it to cool a bit before the next layer and this showed some improvement. This print is really rough on some parts I'm finding and really puts the printer through its paces with all the angles it has and some of the parts are just not printer friendly like the rib segments.

It is indeed a good printer test and a learning experience. Thanks a lot for the cooling tip. My printer only cools from one side so far so I'll definitely try this out. Thanks.

Too many post to search through, however what filament brand and color is available to closly resemble the bone color of the skeleton? Thanks

Personally I never look at the filamet color, because I am a scale modeler, so I paint or airbrush my models. Might be worth a try, you'll get far more realistic results.

Check out Paramount 3D. They have Pantone matched colors in several beige tones in PLA. Also, 3D Solutech and Hatchbox Beige PLA. Push Plastic carries a color called Desert Tan that is nice.

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Has anyone made one with a MakerBot Replicator+? I want to know how much you can scale it up and still fit it on the print bed.

Can anyone give me a hint to print the hip-top STL? I've tried 4 times on a raft, and each time one or more of the little pieces separates from the raft. All others stick like glue.

I printed all parts with a brim rather then a raft. It added needed support for some of the parts, like the skull, which have a very small bed surface area. Also used a skirt (the quick outline around a model on bed surface, prior to printing the model), as this for my printer is just the right amount of time for the extruder to be fully & properly primed to print the model. The brim adds surface area to the base of most of the parts in this porject, which is needed, to achieve proper surface support. I had fantastic results while printing, and just need to complete the tail and appendages now to complete the project.

I did also print all parts with support material generated everywhere for each piece, along with a brim + skirt, as I mentioned before, for added surface area support to each part. The skull specifically isna good example of small bed surface area, requiring a brim. So far I have not had a single print error/fail at all (knock on wood) and have been smooth sailing through this project.

20% infill, printing at 0.01mm Z layer height, slower print speed at 60mm/s

The raft is great for printing your extruder prior to printing the model, so it is extruding well & proper for the part. Or , if you do not have a heated bed, the raft is a great substitute for a printing surface the part will adhere to better, without a heated bed.

I will post my make on here, as I have not done so for any of my printing from thingiverse. You can see from my many collections, i have printed about 95% of the models i have collected here, though I haven't posted all makes :-/. This model deserves a make post though as it is an awesome build & project to print!

try low speed with brim and first layer more squished.

Don't print this unless you have a 1,000,000 dollar printer. There is zero tolerance on the model, so anything prints short of perfect are impossible to fit together.

Printed many times now on a home made printer. My printer parts cost me less than $300 AU. I think this is one of the best models out there to print. Perhaps get to know your printer better, go slower, try rafts, use PLA. Having said that I spent a lot of time calibrating my home made printer but I can wack out the jaw and skull in under 3 hrs.

My $300 Anet A8 prints this just fine.

Wish mine did, I've tried everything and can't get rid of horrible stringing between the ribs...

I sell you my printer that printed this piece flawlessly. I will cut you a deal how about $5,000. 216 Makes now just need to finish post processing and painting.

215 makes say otherwise

I am using a $300 Anet A8, and a $350 Trinus and everything seems to fit great. What printer are you using?

It's a pity MakerBot refuses to fix the many easily fixable issues with this model. I fixed these issue as a remix. Check it out here:


T-Rex Skeleton fixed and printable

tried the ribs file from your file but when i slice using pango it still give me same result. it looks like this http://www.kodamaforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2103

I think it's your slicer. I use cura and there's no problem. Give it a try it's free anyway

does anyone have problems printing the ribs? when sliced using pango some parts of the joint is missing. so i cant attach the ribs to the back bones.

Use cura. It's free and honestly it's the best slicing software available on the market. Seriously.

Slic3r, pango, 3dsystems, etc just don't compare. I know because I have used them all. Cura is a much better product and out performs them all. I have never had an issue with preparing a model + slicing with Cura. Ever.

I'd recommend switching to Cura. Pango is quite limited. I can help you out if you have any questions. I assume you have the Trinus? I have some profiles for that printer that have given me great results on this model.

yes, i have Trinus! :) its my first 3d printer and im still learning to get the best result. i would love to know some setting for the trinus, its a new thing for me :D been printing for some times but i kept getting warping, stringing, and print not sticking to the heated bed as well . ive tried simplify3d and cura but, cant seem to understand how they work, because often the nozzle banging the bed. and also i have to offset the z-axis to -0.5

Laughably small arms?

Small is only relative...

Bigger than a human leg with more muscle and a two six-inch long claws... I'm not laughing!

I have several Items I can't get to print. Lets start with the Tail part B. I separated the 2 parts and have all the tail printed except B, it simply gets just so high and goes crazy? Is there a layer missing? Anybody redone part B and have a good file?

I printed all the parts at 130%, tail B, when finish is like 112mm long and slenderly built. Make sure you use a layer raft or brim or the piece will move if the nozzle trip over it, and trust me it will.
Also make sure your bed is perfectly level.

Can anyone produce a list of parts that needed support and which parts do not.? I was going to print this in white pla hundred percent on a prusa I3 MK2.

You'll want to print all parts with support. Each have overhangs and most have small bed surface areas requiring a brim for added surface area and support. Print with Brim + support generated everywhere for all parts.

This is how I printed mine and am about to complete all parts. Have not had a single problem with printing, no errors or fails at all. Sliced with Cura, Brim and support everywhere, 0.01mm Z layer height, slower speed for it's complexity 60mm/s, 20% infill, 2 perimeter walls or 0.8mm, same for bottom and top layers.

Perfect results and print quality for all parts so far. Just need to do appendages now (arms & legs) to complete the project!

Thanks for sharing.
where do you set the 0.01 Z layer height in Cura ? and 2 perimeter walls ?

You dont need support for any part. Just use one layer raft so the part do not move.

Wow look forward to printing this. Thanks

That is huge. I love it. Is your printer Prusa brand?

Im now attempting this print. made a mistake fro my first print i did the skull and used supports......BIG mistake very hard to remove. oh well.

did the lower jaw as second print with no support and worked out fine. so ill try to print all others with no support. my Tevo Tarantula is dialled in nicely. the auto bed mesh levelling sucks for first layer on one side of bed but as long as i watch and manual adjust the bed screws i can get nice first layer.
looking forward to this print but its going to take some time, my average print after i do the slicing is about 9 hours give or take, my power bills going to be HUGE. HAHAHA

I've started to print this at 132% How tight are the H-clips? All my H-clips are way too loose. Even the vertical pole thing is quite loose in the base and lower hip. Yes, I did scale the H-clips and pole along all dimensions.

I'm also concerned about the general fit of everything as I go. Like are the ribs super loose too? I haven't printed them yet.

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They are the H attachments that come in the file. You print them and they're only colored in the instructions for identification.

Awesome print! Though mine is leaning forward so much that it feels like it's going to fall forward. Any advice, can I do something to make it more upright?

Has anyone else tried to print this on a Makerbot Replicator Mini? This is my first printing project and some of the files aren't working. I had Femur 1, Feet 2 and Hip 2 print incorrectly. My guess is it is because I need supports? Is there a program anyone suggests to fix this? Has everyone had to fix their T-Rex? I didn't print the skull yet, but after running into the problems that I have, I feel like that they wouldn't print correctly because they need supports. Any help with this would be very much appreciated!! Thank you!!

I have been printing this for the last month at 2.0 scale and the end is in sight but i'm having a lot of trouble printing the arms and ribs. The arms keep breaking in half and the ribs seem to do the same. I've tried many times to print these any advice?

I seperated the ribs and printed one at a time on a raft. Took a while but printed awsome at .1 layer height.

What do you use to separate parts of the model? I'm also printing this at 2X scale and so far the skull and jaw turned out prefect. I've been combing the comments looking for helpful hints, and this is one. Thanks!

I used mesh mixer to seperate them. Just highlight and delete the parts you dont need/want to print at that time. Just make sure you print ribs single, slow, and have a good raft. I hope this helps you!

How long does this take to print?

omg I have to print this! :D

How much plastic do i need to make the T-rex?

One roll if printed at 150%. I just finished printing it at 20% infill .1 layer height.

How thick did you print the shell at?

.8 total. Inner and outer at .4

Im gonna start this print, im looking at all the prints, but im not sure if i should add some SUPPORTS on any, did someone of you print it all without supports? also im gonna use 0.1 layer for the skull and teeth, and hands and a a little few more, the other at 0.2, right?

I did not use any supports and everything came out really well, however, if your machine isn't perfectly tuned then a couple parts may benefit from supports, but they will be a pain to clean up afterwards without breaking. I printed everything at .2mm layers with 20% infill and .8mm walls, except the hip (the part where the base attaches) i upped that to 1.2mm walls and 40% infill to make sure it could support the weight. Idk if that was totally necessary, but i didn't want to paint and finish everything and have it snap in half.

thanks for anwering, im using only brim at the moment all ok by now, some overhangs but i can fix them with a sharp knife, i will use supports only for the neck bone

Use raft for every part. It makes a HUGE difference as I learned.

Anyone else have issues printing the tail using Cura? Half way through the print, it prints one layer like garbage. It's underextruded or something. My part ends up breaking in half during the rest of the print due to that weak point. There are also occasional layers with 100% infill. The problem layer occurs right in between two of these layers and resides on Tail A.

I'm personally using a Lulzbot mini, but I was able to find someone else with the same issue on reddit who uses a printrbot. Anyone figure out how to overcome this?

mine just broke off removing it from the print bed. And I have an instant solution...super glue. Cant even tell and I don't have to screw with modeling software or reprint the damn thing.

Well boys and girls, I found the issue. I took a section of the model in Netfabb and it appears that there is literally a gap in the model between the joints I described. Therefore, the slicer is just following the model and "skipping" a layer and that's why it's weak at that point. Hopefully Makerbot can fix their model so others don't continue to have this issue.

Picture here: http://imgur.com/k69AZh3

Tail B appears to also have this issue (as I saw when printing). But this model appears to have separation between 3 of the joints! (I experienced the issue on joint 2). I understand that depending on your layer height, your 3D printer can soak up these gaps and not mind. I personally was printing at .18mm layer height, which while is fairly detailed layer height it's definitely not the finest that others are doing by a long shot, so I hope makerbot is able to correct this

Tail B: http://imgur.com/VEzxLps

Did makerbot fix it yet? I am worried to print it.

Newbie here...this looks great! So if I figure out how to print all 19 parts out before a year goes by, how best are they put together? Model glue?

if you're new to this i suggest to print other small pieces before you try this. i do suggest making the skull and jaw to assemble the skull its very nice piece and if continue i really suggest reading other comments and take the time to get idea on what they did since if you do this right away without dialing in your machine you're gonna have issues

Mostly you should be able to snap fit the parts together. I used a bit of superglue to attach the jaw to skull however. The pelvis should be printed with relatively thick walls and/or more infill to make it stronger. Otherwise it may break at the narrow point since it takes all the weight of the model when mounted on the stand.

Mostly you should be able to snap fit the parts together. I used a bit of superglue to attach the jaw to skull however. The pelvis should be printed with relatively thick walls and/or more infill to make it stronger. Otherwise it may break at the narrow point since it takes all the weight of the model when mounted on the stand.

Newbie here...this looks great! So if I figure out how to print all 19 parts out before a year goes by, how best are they put together? Model glue?

I'm currently printing this at 2.0 scale. This has turned into quite the undertaking; time-wise.

I'm about to start printing this at 2X scale, do you have any advice? The skull and jaw turned out prefect, but it only gets more complicated from there.

Yeah, follow-through and don't be afraid to use supports. I think it was the neck/spine that I had to print 3 times, because I was too conservative with my supports with the orientation it had to be in order for it be printed with my printer's build dimension.

I'd also use a raft with the parts you're going to print upright with thin supports, since 1 out of 5 times a support would break before even meeting with the underlying part it would support. You'll save time and money just adhering to that; IMHO.

I use a Dremel with a plastic wire brush at a low RPM to buff/smooth out the surfaces of the parts that were printed with supports. So, that'll help, cosmetically. I find that to be probably the most challenging part for me.

Hope that helps.

I just finished mine at 200%, pretty big. im finding it leans alot to one side.. the centre post isnt stiff enough,

I'm trying to get a sense of the scale. Was the upper skull the largest single piece? I have a 200x200x180 print volume. Also, at 200%, how long from tip of skull to tip of tail is your completed model? How tall on the stand? I have to make sure this thing fits on the shelf I'm thinking about putting it on.

Wonderful thank you

Will this bad boy print and fit together properly scaled down to 50%?

I tried that. Parts are too small and weak to be printed successfully at that scale.

Printed on Prusa i3 MK2
PLA resolution 0.2 mm infill 10%

I had to repair several original files:
I loaded all the parts in Windows 3D builder ad it showed what part was broken. Repaired it automatically and saved new stl file.
I recommend this approach on every file downloaded from internet before trying to print it. Saves a lot of time and filament.
I found broken parts even in featured stegosaurus skeleton.

Also had to split arms and printed one by one.

I used brim 5mm and raft on some parts.

Hi Karlosek, can you send the files to rodrigobsb@gmail.com? Thank you!

Could you mind sharing those repaired files with me? I've wasted a lot of filament on those files and a few more because I believe that it needs rafting? But I am brand new to this and just wanted to print this for someone for my first print, but I don't know how to go about fixing the problems that I am facing. Thank you very much!

Hi Brian,

I surely can. How can I upload them?

Here is my make:

I wrote some notices about how I repaired and printed the skeleton there too.

T-Rex Skeleton

Could they be emailed? I just don't know how certain parts, like Hip 2, prints correctly without some sort of support. There is an overhanging piece that just didn't print correctly. This is my very first print, but three of them didn't print correctly and the more I looked at other parts, I felt that they may not print correctly as well. I really appreciate your help with this man! my students are going to love this when it is complete!

For those having issues with the manifold go into Microsoft's "3D Builder" and a popup will appear recommending you repair the mesh - click on it. Re-save as an stl and slice as usual.

The rib pieces show up as different size in Cura. Anyone else had this problem?

I've noticed that too. But it seems like the dimensions of the ribs are the same, just a little nearer together on the left ribs. I think it should be ok :-)

Okey, lets print this on the Gmax looks like everything will fit scaled up %400, I wonder if it could hold it's self up? proly not but we could use some wires andHOLEY COW Thats Almost 8 Feet Long!

I'm having issues with the TRex_Tail_B_D. One of the objects shows missing disconnected areas in Slic3r. How are you guys printing this part?
The Slic3r says that it fixes 50000 errors, but still, there are discontinuities.

Hi. The same here. Slic3r messed this part up.
I tried to slice it in Simplify3d and it ended OKish. Printed out completely but without holes for connection tabs. No big deal as I plan to glue the whole tail together with superglue.

Dorsal parts look OK on my Slic3r.

Also, jaw printed out a tad smaller than skull so it did not snap together. Had to glue the jaw and skull together.

I am still in middle of printing other parts so lets hope the rest will be OK.

I sliced everything except Tail_B_D part in Slic3r with the same settings.

Also same issue is present with both Dorsal objects.

Sometimes the "Like" button just isn't enough!

Hi, I'm fairly new to 3D printing and wanted to ask, are all these parts in the best orientation for printing? It seems to me that even with supports some of the taller parts would topple over. Any advice? Thanks

where the end of the tail

Finally got it to print but I had to use rafts and supports. For many of the tall parts I had to tape down the rafts (after 25% printing) to make sure the parts didn't fall over. The blue tape works well. Just cut it into small strips. I had to reprint the hip bottom after it broke (very fragile). A few other ribs also broke and I glued them back together. I super glued the ribs on along with many other parts. Using a CTC 3D printer.

To add tape:

  1. Pause printing
  2. Choose filament change (moves the print head out of the way)
  3. Apply tape to rafts.
  4. Exit filament menu
  5. Resume printing

I hear you, i have several failed pieces, neck was the worst, great idea taping down the raft. Just had the middle 3 tallest ribs fail near the end of print. cool model? yes, easy to print? not exactly could it be done better? yes

Comments deleted.

Does anyone know if it is possible to increase each part by the same percentage would it all still fit together?

Making great progress, 3 middle ribs came off the bed while printing the "ribs_left", But so far so good, yeah i had some issues printing the neck so i used supports, and i almost went through an entire 1KG roll of filament for 200% scale. I have the head, spine, hip top, complete tail, scapulas, all done in white (almost gone maybe 30 grams left) I did the arm and feed and left ribs in another color.

Yeah, the neck was a challenge for me at 2.0 scale, too.

Sounds like its gonna be a beast when done. Can't wait to see it. Have you reduced the infill to save a little on material?

I mostly used 20% so far, it has used alot of filament, but it is a large model, im thinking of doing the base pieces at 10%, more to save time than filament
I got lots of filament, not enought time......need another printer

many people have done it so, Yes. I am currently doing a 200% version as its the biggest i can go without having to cut up the model into smaller chunks

Brilliant, thank you for replying. What is the biggest part by the way? Is it one of the skull parts or maybe the hip?
I only ask as i figure if i see to what size i can print the largest piece then that should give me the percentage by what i can increase the other parts by. Would also love to see your end result, keep me posted on that

So far the tallest in the stock orientation is the Hip_Top piece. and now that i have scaled it up it wont work on my printer, I will have to mod that part, but i have many other parts to print first. I know Geoffro has printed it at %165 if you look in this things Makes

I have just had my first epic failure (random spaghetti art) on the neck piece. It has a small contact with the bed but over hangs fairly far. It was printing good but it toppled over, Im thinking i may have to reslice/mod to add some sort of support because my bed adhesion is a little too low


"So far the tallest in the stock orientation is the tallest piece"...........
Did i misunderstand that sentence or did you miss the part name out? lol
What printer are you using, i have a ultimaker 2+. I had a great result with the skull print.

Edited my previous comment with Hip_Top, I have Wanhao duplicator i3. 200x200x180

Hi, I have issues with printing the ribs, it prints fine for the two thirds of the print (www.kalidesign.be/images/ribs1.JPG).
My guess because the object is moving at that moment and is unstable.
So second try I add support but you see, it's still bad :-( (www.kalidesign.be/images/ribs2.JPG)
Can you please help me out here? I used for both prints a raft.

FlashForge Creator Pro running FlashPrint 3.11; did not have any hole issues.

No problem printing in PLA on any part, but printing in ABS has been a disaster. Might be the quality of the filament, but not sure. My PLA is bright white which is OK, but for the skeleton I wanted something more ivory-ish, which is the ABS.

Tried many different settings, but can't even get a good skull.

UPDATE: Tweaked settings and now getting excellent prints in ABS, 225 deg, 60 deg board, 70mm/sec extrude, cover on and door closed, ceiling fan off.

Love this model, would love it if you guys did a realistic tarantula model

Having an issue with the fit of the pins into the holes on the tale section. The pins are too big to fit. I am scaled to 125% for all parts. Any ideas? For example the largest pin on the tail section is 0.9mm too big on the solid portion of the pin.

This model is awesome! I printed the complete model with no supports and had excellent results except for the 2 piece base. My print bed is large enough to print the whole base as one object but after 3 attempts to join the two as one print, I still get a visual defect at the joint. Can you guys please upload the base as one piece for those of us capable of printing it as one piece. I've attempted to use Meshmixer to join the 2 but it hangs about 30% into the Boolean join function.

l printed this out this past week. I was very pleased. I first started on the Makerbot Stegosaurus. With that model I had to trim all parts to go together and I am having to superglue a rib at a time as they do not print well for me and the holes and pins are too small for an additive printer to do well. However, the TRex is a different story. The pins and holes are as large as you can get them with long pens with spaces to allow them to collapse together for effective fit. The TRex went together for me without trimming except the ribs. The ribs worked hugely better than the Stego... I did superglue the ribs but had that done in a day whilst Im slowly still working on Stego ribs and plates gluing one at a time using clamps and such to hold them since there is no such thing as 10 second superglue (or 30 second either). Good Job, TRex Maker! Also I was able to print the TRex without support (only brim) without any issues on a TAZ5 using Makerbot 1.75 Warm Gray. Though TAZ is setup for 3mm, I find MB PLA 1.75 to be the best performing filament I've used. Other PLA brands I use become too brittle except when in humid climes and ABS and HIPS is quite poor printing accurate pins and holes such as are found on this model due to shrinkage.. To print 1.75 on TAZ you only need to adjust first layer to adhere and indicate filament diameter. PS - I had no issues resulting from nonmanifold meshes... maybe due to Cura's fix horrible default settings.

I'm having an alignment issue where the hip top attaches to the dorsal_a. It seems like the dorsal_a sits low and it makes the vertebrae hit the hip bone. It won't snap into position and it just looks off. I haven't scaled the model either, does anyone else have the same issue? i will probably just cut the locking pin off and glue them in position. By the way, my prints came out excellent and I love the model. First project after a couple test prints with my FFCP.

Awesome. Prints great

Great item to print, but as others have said many non manifold meshes - but really you should always check files before printing them. I found Slic3r detected and fixed all the problems, more than meshmixers inspector could, or blenders manifold checker. The only thing i've seen with better watertight checks is Zbrush, but its not cheap. The hardest thing I've found to print on this is the tail, use a good amount of infil, even print the small end tail seperately. Even if you don't use Slic3r for slicing, it has a simple repair function and outputs OBJ files, it's pretty darn good for a freebie.

I ran the tail through slic3r and split it up so I could print on piece at a time. The Tail D section that seems to be missing a large chunk just would not repair correctly, and I was about to give up but I found a pretty simple solution - upload just the affected section to Tinkercad and then export it again as an STL. It seems to have filled in the model correctly and it's headed off to the printer right now - I'll update once it's done and we'll see how it went.

Worked a treat - the completed print came out just fine. Hopefully this is an easy way for people that might be struggling with this tail segment.

Absolutely amazing model. Bravo. Just wanted to say that I noticed some files (maybe all I'm not sure) are not manifold. Didn't realize until I printed out dorsal A and it had some holes in it. If you are printing just make sure you run through Netfabb!

How do you get the connecting poices that the assembly directions show?

It's the h clips

I´m having a lot of trouble with the ribs.
Until 85% everything works fine but then it gets messy because the ribs are moving around.

I can´t figure the right settings. Should I turn off the nozzle fan so the top of the bones does not warp? The print speed is 35mm/s
Any suggestions appreciated :/

Whn I ran the ribs, I slowed the speed right down for the last 50%, it takes ages, but it works, also you need good cooling!

I had one rib fall at about 70% but I used ABS at 0.15 mm layer height with cooling fan on and the rest printed great. I had just a bit of cleanup of strings thanks to the fallen rib. I just tipped it off with some white abs/acetone mix and it will just be a broken rib.
The only way to get these to print with ABS is at least 3 shells perimeter and with a level glass bed + glue stick with the cooling fan at 100% starting only after 10-15 layers high.

I have run the Tail_B_D through Netfabb and MakePrintable and it sitll has discontinuities in the tail sections that will make this dumb part impossible to print. I have ever other damn part printed. WTF.

I'm also seeing issues with the TRex_Tail_B_D. One of the objects shows missing disconnected areas in Slic3r. Is there any solution to this?

Hi ChuckNorr15,

I have got the same problem. Also with one part of the Tail A_C. There seems to be a gap between the tail sections, with hardly any support.

It has broken of a couples of times. Does anyone have a solution? Does a higher infill have any effect??

I have run the Tail_B_D through Netfabb and MakePrintable and it sitll has discontinuities in the tail sections that will make this dumb part impossible to print. I have ever other damn part printed. WTF.

Comments deleted.

Where are the files for the connectors they show in the build instructions?

This will NOT print correctly on a Dremel

It's for the makerbot

Comments deleted.

That's what you get for buying a freakin' Dremel printer.

Actually the Dremel printer is a rebranded and slightly modified FlashForge Dreamer which is a decent printer.

This has to be the easiest printed piece i have worked on. One failed print 5 hours in and that was a machine fault.

Printed with no supports whatsoever except for the lower jaw, mainly for the overhang as it starts off the bed.

Love it

Question for you. At what % would you scale this down for a 28mm miniature. That's roughly: 1:58 - 1:56

It's 1:20 scale now, so if you wanted it at 1:57 scale: 20/57 = 35.1%
or if you wanted an "exact" scale where 1inch=5ft then you could print it at 33.3%
I'm not sure how well certain parts would print at that scale, however (like the pins), so keep that in mind

Hey All! Are you guys using supports for this build at all??

I need supports for the last third of the overhang on the jaw print.

Nope, not even at 205% scale, proper cooling and slow printing is key.

Well i had the neck piece fall on me using a raft, 45mm/s on Wanhao Di3,,,200% scale. Not sure what to do, so i printed with supports, and it turned out just fine (just used more filament). the neck i found to be awkward because the bed contact area is so small and a lot of the part weight is not directly over top

hell yeah thank you!

I'm having a lot of trouble with the tail. Parts A and C printed well, but slicing B and D in slic3r failed. It worked with Cura, but the print was incredibly messy and upon assembly all 4 pieces broke. Anyone else have the problem and/or fixing it?

Having trouble slicing (S3D) the ribs there are some walls near the snap connectors (at the base) that are about .1mm thick and my slicer is ignoring that portion. I guess I will use a different slicer for the ribs.

So, any luck using a different slicer? I have the same problem as well, and only need to do the ribs.

I ended up printing at 200% scale which addresses the issue for the most part. Had to reduce my extrusion width a little for the ribs to get all the geometry.

I had no problems with the RIGHT ribs on S3D, odd. I've been printing all the files separately at 205% scale, almost finished. :)
I don't know about the LEFT side though...

Well that's because you doubled the size of the model.

I see, I didn't pay attention to what your message originally said, as a few hours before your post someone had mentioned that S3D had errors on part of the RIBS that needed fixed. I assumed your mentioning of the ribs was possibly the same issue the other poster was having. There is a remix of the fixed files now.

Printing mine now at 150%. Modded the hip_top to cut part of the connection piece down a bit. Started printing with support but the support actually gets in the way. Best to print without. Will post complete once its done.

Thanks for the file. Great stuff.

Printing mine now at 150%. Modded the hip_top to cut part of the connection piece down a bit. Started printing with support but the support actually gets in the way. Best to print without. Will post complete once its done.

Thanks for the file. Great stuff.

Incredible. Lot of work. Much appriciated.


How did you make the snaps. Addon for inventor or pro engineer

What is the largest part? I need to know for scaling purposes.

Based on my checking, it appears TRex_Hip_Top.stl is the largest piece.

I agree with you. I thought it was a different part and then I got to the Hip_top. Oops, to big for my printer in the natural orientation so I had to lay it down and print with supports. Otherwise everything printed fine for me at 180%. I am in the process of cleaning up the parts and then I will paint and assemble it.

That sucks, but at least you can get it to fit. I'm currently printing that piece at this exact moment, it's about 75% finished, another hour to go! :)

I intend to glue mine together so when i came to Hiptop i just cut most of the clip part off in Blender. there is still a stub so it can be properly aligned to the rest of the model, but i can print it at 200% scale on my Duplicator i3 (180mm Z).

Hey, could you write something about how you designed the T-Rex? Did you sculpt it? Scan it? Find it on 123d catch?

I have to give on this, I wasted too much time and filament on this project. Arms fell over 4 times and twice even with rafts. When attempting to print the Femur_Tibea file, one of the pieces fell over at 90 percent ruining all the pieces.

Don't give up, 3D printing is all about persevering and learning by mistakes, failures and challenges!

The Femur_Tibea pieces have large base areas - you shouldn't have any issues with those - could be other set-up parameters that need addressing on your printer?
Try a brim (if your slicer uses those) works really well on the pieces with small bed adhesion areas.

What printer and bed adhesion techniques are you using?
Which filament type?
Do you get a lot of layer surface curling?
Are your cooling fans at 100%

Don't give up, 3D printing is all about persevering and learning by mistakes, failures and challenges!

The Femur_Tibea pieces have large base areas - you shouldn't have any issues with those - could be other set-up parameters that need addressing on your printer?
Try a brim (if your slicer uses those) works really well on the pieces with small bed adhesion areas.

What printer and bed adhesion techniques are you using?
Which filament type?
Do you get a lot of layer surface curling?
Are your cooling fans at 100%

Thanks Franc.. I'm pretty new to 3d printing, only have a printer for a week and this is my 3rd project. The problem I'm seem to be having is with bed adhesion. I have attempted to do the arms with rafts but they still tipped over. I will keep playing around with the settings. I will attempt to raise the temp of the bed to 115, I have been setting it at 110 (I'm using ABS). I have a dual extruder and it almost seemed like the nonused left extruder was hitting the left arm when it skimmed over it while the right extruder was printing the right arm (mayby just me, lol). I will rotate the project just in case.

This is a crazy project for your first print! You've got some balls!!! :)

The issue you are seeing with your raft is that raft's are designed to break away easy - so the adhesion you are looking for is working on the bed, but the part to the raft has a very weak link. I am half way through printing this as an evening project, and almost all my parts are using BRIMS. A brim will essentially extend the printed contact of the part to the print bed and make it less likely to "topple". Think of brims like roots of a tree, keeping the print upright and sturdy - even if the "wind/nozzle" hits it(!) For the Femur_Tibea part I had a brim of about 20-30 lines, so all four bones actually connected to each other at the print bed and made a giant flat first layer - it printed first time without any issues (phew!) and was even a struggle to remove the now single piece from the print bed.

Best of luck mate!


Understood. But i would say that this is a challenging project for a new user!
I would also suggest try printing PLA if you have any. Its an easier material to print with if you're new to the technology.

But if you've only been printing for a week then i wouldn't worry, you'll soon learn all the idiosyncrasies of your printer and it will become easier!

Good luck!

Understood. But i would say that this is a challenging project for a new user!
I would also suggest try printing PLA if you have any. Its an easier material to print with if you're new to the technology.

But if you've only been printing for a week then i wouldn't worry, you'll soon learn all the idiosyncrasies of your printer and it will become easier!

Good luck!

I haven't attempted the hands yet, but with a raft it shouldn't happen. Maybe scale the pieces up some to your largest print area and try again sometime. Sorry

Comments deleted.

How is that tail supposed to be printed? So many 90 deg overhangs on each of those vertebrae, I'm going to try and use some support material I just hope I can remove it after.

If you have good cooling and print slowly, it doesn't turn out too bad. Having a proper cooling fan will make all the difference mostly. I plan on doing some finishing and painting once I'm finished. I'm scaling it up to print as large as I can.

What color filament is this printed in? Is it Warm Gray?

Anyone having an issue with the lower jaw fitting into the skull? Scaled down to 60%, and the lower jaw is too loose.

You can run it under hot water and bend the lower jaw outwards a bit (easier if using PLA, needs higher temperature if ABS or others). Mine was even slightly loose printed at 100%

Are any of you printing multiple files at once?

I managed to fit every single part on a Taz 5. But S3D didn't slice the ribs correctly so I will have to print those separately with a different slicer.

I had no problems with the RIGHT ribs on S3D, odd. I've been printing all the files separately at 205% scale, almost finished. :)

the larger scale will allow you to use S3D on the ribs. The issue is S3D ignores wall thicknesses below the print width you set.

I just printed 4 files at once, 14 hours total time.

What is the recommended layer height? I am down to .2 mm already. Not getting the right results,

This is actually not scientifically accurate. The arms are (believe it or not) a bit too long, the tail flexes too much vertically (it should look straight when viewed from the side, they could flex horizontally but not vertically), and it's wrists are not oriented properly (a theropods dinosaurs palms should face each other, not inwards).

These are by no means new or ground breaking details. Ten minutes of research could have prevented this.

I'm currently sitting here with a dinosaur expert who would like to add that you're entirely correct, and also that the humerus should articulate with the glenoid fossa :)

I'm not sure if you've attempted to fix it or not, but I might try to work with him on doing a few tweaks if we have time. Aside from that, awesome model! I really want to print it.

Very cool. I didn't know or notice that about the humerus, I'm the first to admit I'm a live reconstruction person and not a bone person.

Unfortunately I've been having hardware issues, so you can of course feel free to go ahead. I'm planning to do it but it may take a while before I can start.

Good catch! I was just about to print the arms, glad I checked the comments first.
depending on if the model isn't too rough, I'll try and fix the hands

Did you know this is a scan of a real t-rex that has been on display around the united states? Look up Samson the t rex. back when they put the skull with stand up they had the full story about it on the makerbot site.

Scan or not they assembled it incorrectly and for some reason they enlarged the arms (a lot). A quick Google image search found these photos of Samson/Z-rex:


Notice the size of the arms, the direction the palms face, and the extent of vertical bend in the tail.

I saw it in person ot the Oregon museum of science and industry. that display is from a casting of the bones. so the fact that makerbot has them in a different position is not a big deal. if you had read the original article. It is from mri scans of the real bones. When I saw Samson on display I thought the arms looked much longer then I expected them to.  
I would like to know what knowledge you are basing your comments on, I do agree it would look better with the arms forward, but it is in a running stance and we have no idea how it would have held it's arms in a run. 

I'm not referring to the pose of the arms, I'm referring to the wrists specifically. There is indisputable evidence that all theropod dinosaur (including bird) wrists were incapable of pronation (aka "bunny hands").


Look at any well researched skeletal (or that actual skeleton I posted links of above) and it's plain as day these arms are grossly oversized:


Tail morphology is also not - "not a big deal".


Soo you are telling me that your google powers out do that of the scientists who assembled the samson skeleton? Good to know

Did you look at the photos I posted of the real mount? The mount itself is fine, whoever assembled this 3D model is the one who goofed.

I love how this went from the arms are too big to some simple little grasp for where you are correct. This shows you are no more than a keyboard thumping google junkey flexing your ego, and I will waste no more of my time on this.

And I'm done wasting my time with an ignorant hick who refuses to recognize proper scientific sources when they're laid out in front of him.

Comments deleted.

Well then you should create an accurate remix :-)

I would like to, but I somehow doubt my hardware specs are up to it.

Pretty simple fixes honestly, I may give it a go anyway.

The issue is more with my awful GPU and decade old PC than the software. I have Meshmixer and the like but I almost never get any use out of them since anything particularly detailed and they just instantly die.

I also vote for you to fix it. Personally I can't stand it when models are not accurate. How do you know so much about dinosaur anatomy anyway?

I wouldn't say I know that much, just a hobby. I collect dinosaur models.

I collect Dinosaurs!

THANK YOU for releasing the full version. I've made so many T-Rex skulls, everyone loves them. Now I can start showing off a real masterpiece.

Are rafts required, or a good idea, for all pieces or just particular troublesome pieces?

I just started printing this and the arms have tipped over twice. I'm going to try printing them with rafts. I'll let you know how it works out.

The links in the "Thing Details" now work, both in this and in Stego.
Thank you very much !!!!!

Can the link to the PDF instructions be fixed? It still goes to a dead page.

Not in the "Thing Files", but on the "Thing Details" page.

Oh I see now, fixed!

It's jurassic world lol :)

Thank you so much ! I have been waiting so long for this model

But if you are Mentalist, you can create youself, no ? :)
Oh yes, I am a fan of this serie TV lol :)

How do you achieve the bone-like color in the video?

Amazing! Thank yor very much.
On the other hand, the links of the Assembly Instructions of this and of the Stegosaurus (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:600093) models don't work. Please, could you correct it?
Thank you again.

Stegosaurus Skeleton

That link is fixed. You can also find the PDF under the Thing Files tab.

the Assembly Instructions link doesn't work (404)

Is this compatable with the downloadable skull that makerbot released two years ago?

It is essentially the same model, however the skull from two years ago doesn't have a hole in the back that you need to attach the neck. Instead it has a hole in the top of the mouth so you could mount it (just the skull) on a stand.

Ok good to know. I didn't want to print the skull again if I didn't have to.

Am I correct that these parts will all print without supports? Also, would there be any issues scaling this up?

We printed one at 400% using a Replicator Z18. Pics coming soon. :)

No supports are needed. Scaling should not be an issue; the next one I make will be the largest that my printer can make. Just have to figure out which piece is the largest and then scale it based on that.

Let me know what you figure out on the largest piece scaled. I took a quick look and the biggest piece right off was part of the base.

I'm going with 180%, but this will require some explanation.

I have a Markerbot Rep2 and the build area is 6 x 6 x 10. The way the parts are laid out they can be printed without supports, so the tallest part I can make is 6". I could lay them out differently and take advantage of the 10" long print bed, but then I would have a lot of supporting material to clean off. Not my idea of fun, and since some of the bones are very delicate they are likely to break.

The second caveat is that at 180% one of the pieces is taller than 6". However, the offending material is a part of a snap-together connector; this does not bother me since I plan to glue it all together anyway.

Finally, the base will not fit on my printer scaled at 180%. So, I plan to rotate it 45 degrees just to get it to fit and print it with supports. Since it's the bottom of the model and it is a flat piece it will not be too much work to clean it off. I'm estimating it will be between 3 and 4 feet long when it is assembled.

I went through the files this morning, I've found that I can print at 205% to max out the size. The largest piece that really limited it to only 205% scale is part of the tail bone I believe. I forget which piece it was.

Mostly I was curious if figured out which piece exactly was going to limit your scaling up, I'm too lazy to try and figure it out at the moment, so I'd harness your info to make it easier on me lol. I'm going to print a regular sized one first and after I finish my large skull model, work on a scaled up version. :D

I bought this model in digital store......T____T

Good to see Makerbot planning on posting the digital store contents. Much better than letting those beautiful models disappear.

Great! Printed the head, ready to start the body!

Life size here we come!!!!
Man your printers everyone!!!

Life size... Life size... LIFE SIZE?!!
Holy crap, I'd love to see that!

I'm currently printing a large T Rex skull, 14 pieces, it's huge. Once I get finished with that, I'm going to print this. I don't have the patience to cut up each piece of this model to make it huge, but that would be awesome lol. I do want to scale each piece as large as I can print at the moment to make a larger skeleton.