MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now



by DAquad Jan 5, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Really love your design, I already printed 3 of them. They fly great. Wondering if you ever would consider scaling it up to a 220 or 250 size drone. I think it would be awesome to build this in a 220 size frame. Thanks

Thanks mate,

I might do it, Im too lazy

I haven't tried printing it but must say this looks like really nice work. I too, like others, am envious of your organic designs.
That is really difficult for novices, tinkercad users, etc.
I almost want the "how I designed it video" as much as a print of this guy.

Thank you, dear (:
I wish I had the patience to do a video like that

I use Cura... I load everything but this file dont load ... its actually endless... I will try again and let it run lol.

I tried to slice it yesterday... My slicer nerver end the operation... I tried all 3 model... all the same thing... can you help me on this.


hello, I am looking for nice 3'' I really like your design, I just wonder if its 30.5 x30.5mm between fc hole?

alright man! thanks for the fast answer. As soon my print I am on is finish , I print your frame !!! really cant wait to start it!!!

What slicer do you use? No problem using cura, S3D slicers.

Hi there,

Thanks for the feedback, you won't regret if you decide to print and build it!
Yeah the FC that I recommended in the part list is 30.5 by 30.5.

If you go for it please post your make and click the like if you haven't yet (:


Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

Your welcome!

If you gonna print\build one please share your make! and if you haven't clicked the like button I would appreciate that click (:

LOL (:
Did you build one?

What type of battery was used on this build?

Love the design! I wish I could to organic forms like this.

Recently trying to print this frame (been worshipping the model for a while lol), I found a few spots where the micro cam/20x20 version of the frame are so thin that Slic3r thinks they're holes. If those places are a bit thicker, maybe just 0.4 to 0.8mm then we could have 1-2 perimeters.

Other than that I would like to second the split top opinion.
Not only for easier print but also easier to work with supports in general. Not all slicers could place custom supports, Slic3r(again) wants to put supports inside the arms channels where we could have virtually no access, and I couldn't work out a setting that I could keep supports for nose/tail details without supporting the arms channels.


Thanks for the comment and showing that Slicer image. Let me take a re-look at the micro cam version model again. I'll fix that!
and try to add sliced top option.
BTW, I remember printing the arms with supports on my first attempts (then I printed without) and got off the supports easily with a metal bent wire (like a small hook) it served me also to drive the motor wires to the Esc's!

Hey DAquad, I really like your design. I've tried printed it a couple times & everything goes great until it gets to the top of the canopy. Is there anyway you would be willing to make an option to print in two pieces? So that maybe the top 3mm was a flat plate that bolts to the frame, or something like that. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really want to build & fly this quad.


Thanks for the feedback. Do you print it with supports? Are your supports setup correctly? What slicer do you use?
Anyway, I might try to split it into two pieces. I can't promise when due. ( busy ): )

Thanks for Responding DAquad. Yea, I'm Printing with supports, My printer always struggles with Printing overhangs & gaps(Don't think I have enough fan to cool the filament before it starts to sag). Was just looking at options. I would try to remix it myself, but I'm not very good with meshmixer, I have had some luck with modding STLs in fusion360, but it's much easier if you have the solid model to work with. Is that something you would be willing to share?

Guys try PETG! The strength of ABS, but none of the hassles printing it! Plus, no nasty fumes, and environmentally safe! It's the new ABS! Prints as easy as PLA just use higher temps like your filament you choose will specify.

Yeah I like it too! Although I get great result with printing ABS

new pics up for u 2 see mate
sorry took so long been having marlin firmware probs

hi just an update for u
i found something that needs one off two things doing.
and that is that there are no air for the motors , and my dys 1306s stared to over heat .
so i just took of the motor bolts out and made the holes bigger to let more air though and that solved it.
just thought u should know so you could update info to let other people aware of this other wise the fly's great .
many thanks , will upload more pics soon,


Thanks for your comment, I'm not sure what you meant by advising to make the motor bolts holes bigger? Did you mean where the shaft and clip is too tight?

i had 4 bolts on each motor , so i took 2 bolts opposite each other out on each motor , drilled the holes out where bolts used to be to let more air in under the motors , and left just 2 bolts in on each motor .
an it runs fine now , i didn't want weaken the frame by making holes any where else ,so this way your putting a bigger hole where a hole is meant to be , then u dont weakin anything .
sorry does that make any sense lol.

OK got you.
My Racerstars 1306 aren't getting warm.
Anyway, since holes are easy to drill in case you get this issue I prefer to leave it like this for those who like to put 4 bolts in their motors.
If some other report the same I can change\add your recommendation on the description!

i got up this morning to find my first abs part that worked really well.
i done it as test after not having much luck with abs cracking and warping .
but this came out great .
i tested this at 0.10 mm , 3 shells, 20% infill, infill speed 70.o mm.
it came in at 11 hours, 47.5 g,$ 1.47 approximate.
still have not got round to changing that to pounds yet lol
i have got some 1306 s and a 4 in one esc and loads of other flight cons that i can use for this little project.
what plan to do is test other filaments that i have tests of on this being that it printed so well on tevo tran that im doing mods on and testing at moment.
then if thats ok with u i will post them on here this page and make video to go on my YouTube channel that im messing about with at moment.
just so u know i started with rc when i was 12 and am now 45 and fly planes and drones , have about 14 multi rotors of all sizes .
and i will make sure that u get full credit for it by posting links to this an u .
but only if thats ok with u ?
many thanks for the posting this awesome fiie.
ps in blue abs looks sick

Hi Das,

Thanks for the awesome respond. Happy to hear you have managed to get a good ABS print.
Im wondering how did you get that 7 gr more? I printed mine at 0.3mm Res. 2 Shells and 15% Infill. Did you clean well all the Supports?

About your future plannings, yes go for it! I will help you with anything I can...we can interchange feedback and upgrade it as you make your tests!

Hope you enjoy flying it. It came out really great Micro quadcopter.
Looking forward to see yours in action don't forget to link me to your channel


i tested this at 0.10 mm , 3 shells, 20% infill, infill speed 70.o mm.
im now doing one at 0.4 mm ,20 infill. in petg trans blue.
weight is only approximate off the slicer
see how i get on and i will let you know many thanks

Looks great!
I need one in blue ABS ;)

(-: Sure I can make you some

Very cool design. How did you solder everything up and install it all on a one piece design?

Thank you!

First I mount the motors and locate the motor wires through the hollows in the arms.
Second I mount the FPV cam and plug the cam wires
Then I mount the 4in1 Esc's on the corresponding holes.
Now you have to solder the three motor wires to corresponding tabs on the Esc. (I don't care Esc's order I fix it later with remapping on BetaFlight)
Time to place the FC but not before you have soldered the Buzzer,Leds if you need. The OSD cam wires, in my case of using Omnibus F3, Esc's to the Fc's outputs 1-4, Vbat and your receiver. Do all these preparations out of the frame!
After soldering all the above you can place in the Fc and receiver (I placed my XM+ Receiver between Esc's and Fc)
In the end, I placed the VTx.

I was sure it will be more complicate to add the electronics but it was surprisingly straightforward (:

hey im currently making this build and im curious what kind of battery or power source you used?

Hi, (:

Thanks for having interest in my design. I'm using this battery
CNHL Ministar 3S
and really happy. 4S would work better if you have the right motors to handle it.
Please don't forget to share your build and videos if you make some.
Thank you