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Anet A6 / A8 external Case

by Jaro_Krieg Jan 2, 2018
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Bonjour, et bravo pour cette box externe.

Je voudrai apporter quelques modifications à un de tes fichiers (la partie arrière), J'ai déjà modifier le support carte mère + mosfet, car j'utilise des mosfet en 30A avec gros dissipateur ( https://www.dhresource.com/0x0s/f2-albu-g6-M00-DF-77-rBVaSFtZqZ6AXp82AAIO59t7nXg102.jpg/etmakit-nouvelle-imprimante-3d-pi%C3%A8ces-g%C3%A9n%C3%A9ral-module-d-extension-de-puissance-de-lit-chauffant-add-on-high-current-210a-mosfet-mise-%C3%A0-niveau-ramps-1.4-em88.jpg ). Et je voudrai changer la taille du ventilateur arrière en 80 X80 et non 120X120 car il me faut de la place pour y placer un connecteur DB37 pour faire la liaison avec mon imprimante 3D. Est-il possible que tu m'envois le fichier source de la pièce arrière svp (pour fusion 360) ? sinon je vais devoir faire une plaque de fond et tout refaire les emplacements, car je suis débutant en 3D et je ne suis pas capable de la recrée parfaitement. Merci beaucoup d'avance.

si tu le désires, je peux t'envoyer le support carte mère + 2 mosfet en 30A que j'ai fait pour l'intégrer à ton ensemble pour ceux qui veulent avoir le choix comme tu as fait pour l'alimentation.

Hello my friend. Thank you for your work.
Tell me please, is there a possibility to install a 120 mm fan in the top cover to cool the motherboard and mosfets?

Well, the opening on the back is supposed for the 120mm Fan to cool Mainboard and Powersource alike.

How many M3 screws and nuts are needed for assembly, also what length screws are required?

42 if you count the 4+2 for the powerswitch and 120mm Fan on the backside.

I used the m3x16 of the original Anet Frame (swtiched to AM8)

I quick put these pieces together in my modeling program while preparing to build this, and it looks like none of the screw holes on the sides line up (see pic1). Also, the chamfered corners on the front plate are a little off (not a big deal, but still looks sloppy, see pic2).

The Frontplate has been updated because the Nut-Slot was a little bit off.

The Radius on the Frontplates is intentional for a functional fit and exchange, a pointy edge and it would jam.
You are sure its the drillholes and not an optical illusion (because you look through 6 holes when looking from the side)
When modeling the parts i considered the ISO 2768 Tolerances to give every part atleast 0,2mm more spacing. Especially for inner spacings like drill-holes, printer tend to make small holes even smaller because of the physics. (Thats why the holes for m3 screws are 3,5mm like the supposed to be, according after Iso-Norm ^^ )

check out the pictures in the 'Made' section. So far it works. XD

The side picture (pic1) I sent was an orthographic view, so perspective shouldn't be a factor. Also while I certainly don't want to insult anyone who's made one, if you look at either build: (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:486644 or https://www.thingiverse.com/make:496199) you can see that the sides are warped and don't line up properly, which agrees with the model having misaligned holes. I'll double check when I get home tonight, though.

If you're ok with it, I'll probably remix this with a few other modifications.

Anet A6 / A8 external Case
by Tittus
Anet A6 / A8 external Case

I made one of these as well, a couple of problems though, 1, the posts on the front and back plates interfere with the 30a power supply, it sits to close to the wall and there is no space to attach the front and back plates, i trimmed off the excess, but it makes it very brittle. I suggest moving the mounting holes on the bottom surface to the middle of the box instead of shifted to the side as it is currently. 2nd issue is the mounting of the main board and mosfets. the board is not exactly square so it can only be mounted one of 2 ways, and that makes either the power connectors or the sd card and usb cable be butted up against the wall on top. suggest moving the mounting holes for the board to the middle of the top piece as well. gives enough room for both parts then, and I havent had a chance to check the fitment of the display yet but as a couple other people have pointed out it appears to be off as well.

The A8 faceplate doesn't work. All four mounting holes for the LCD are about 3mm too low.

I tried using this. I am using the stock A8 display. None of the screw holes line up on the a8 faceplate. For the 30A psu. Once installed you cannot attach the front and back pieces cause the section that contains the screw holes hits the top of the power supply. Moving the screw holes away from the side a few more mm would allow it to fit.

bolt holes for motherboard are off too. Only ones that have matched perfect are the holes for the mosfets and to actually put it together.

Can someone upload some photos of this model printed?

I like so much your work!

Will a PSU like this fit in it along with everything else???



depends on the distance of the drilling holes

Comments deleted.

I would like to remix this for my MKS board and add some other things, like a RaspPi mount. Would you mind sharing your CAD files or a neutral file, something like STEP or IGES?

Nevermind, I saw that you designed this in Creo. I've downloaded it and am remixing it for my needs. Thanks.

importing the STL's wont work with creo - atleast not so good. If you mail me your email i can send you the .prt files

From what CAD system?

Hi ! Really nice and smart design !
I can't open your amazon links with any of my computer or smartphone (always going on generic amazon page ...)
Do you have some aliexpress links for the correct usb extender and sd extender ?
Thanks !!!

Very good work.
I have printed the box but I have the problem that I have the box stuck to the furniture of the printer that is on the left so the connectors of the card and the USB cable do not have access. Could you also upload the original file of the design program's frotal to be able to edit and place the connectors to the right or to the front?
Thank you

think i will rework the front around next weekend and load it up here

To the Original creator of other videos regarding the wire extensions involved with this mod file. How and where id you extend the exruder wires? I've tried but it seems that they do not work right motors skip, or move in the wrong direction. switched back the original cords and then works fine again therefor I will ask again, How and where id you extend the exruder wires? Please explain in detail.

When i bought my stock Anet A8 one of the Z-Axis Cable's were wrong assambled by factory (two cables were misplaced in the plug) and I ordered some spare cables as replacement that came in a bundle from gearbest. (i fixed the stock cable before the replacement arrived).
The Replacement cables appeared to be about nearly 100cm long (except one) - so 40cm longer than the stock cable, which came in handy.

I have build a closet for keeping my both Printers with 4 floors. Two floors for the CR10 and AM8, a small Floor at the bottom for spareparts and stuff and in the middle between both Printer Floors recide the Controlboxes. The CR10 gave me actualy the idea of a all-in-one controll unit.

The AM8 is under the box - so all cables have to got to the top of the frame (and then only 20cm further to be plugged in)
I use an external bowden extruder mounted on the top of the frame, so this stepper has the shortest cable lenght.
I highly recommend an bowden extruder - the most trouble i had with the A8 was with the fact that the stepper was right over the nozzle. The CR10 showed me how more comfortable a bowden extruder is.

The only cables that had actualy be extended by myself were the end-switches - but they are simple copper wires, so i cust cut them and soldered some leftover wires onto them.

Hope i could help you.

Good morning,
My compliments. Very nice box. I wanted to add some changes to your file, for my printer that is to add a voltmeter and LED commands.
Can I have the file editable so I can remix it and make it available to others?
Thank you. Max.

Thank you very much.
I'm afraid I can't read it.
Can you send me .STP or .IGES file, please? Max.


I understand that the psu30 base is for the power supply, but can the motherboard and the power supply be put inside the box together? I understand that yes, but I do not see how. Do you have a picture with the internal organization?



it's simple. The PSU can be screwed on the Lower boxpart - The Mainboard should be mounted on the Mainboard-stl moderator-plate, the Plate then can be screwed on the upper Boxpart