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OpenForge 2.0 Dungeon Stone Wall

by devonjones Dec 31, 2017
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Just a quick question - for the 2 inch wall section, Cura tells me the x-axis is 51.4mm however the bases i have been using (1 inch 2x2) are 50.8 - won't this create an overhang?

I think I understand - but wouldn't an overhang on the outer edges of the walls create gaps between the tiles?

not enough to be noticeable. It's hard to have good texture that doesn't also leave at least a little gap.

If you want a set that should be entirely gap free, take a look at cut stone. It's texture is all subtractive, so it's borders are really tight.

I see. I will get printing and give it a shot. Thank you so much for all that you have done for this community!

it's not from the bottom, it's the stone texture.

How do you make corner tiles with these? I don't see where you can say have a 2x2 tile with walls on two sides? For halls or corners. I must be missing some detail. (Brand new to OpenForge).

You wouldn't, you would use these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2740275

You can find all the tiles for dungeon stone here: https://www.thingiverse.com/devonjones/collections/openforge-2-dungeon-stone-series/page

As for hallways, I recommend using floors and separate walls: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2787903

OpenForge 2.0 Dungeon Stone Corner
OpenLOCK Dungeon Stone Primary Walls

Very dumb newb question. Brand new to 3d printing. I’m trying to load the files in Cura, but they are all of just floor or just walls. How do O print the floor connected to the wall? And how do I get the holes in the bases for the open lock connectors?

I design the floor, wall and base separate to be glued together. I do this for a few reasons:
1) I support many different locking mechanisms, This keeps me from having to release every tile 6 times
2) This enables people to mix and match floors and walls from different sets

You'll find the bases linked in the instructions. There you can download a zip file containing all the possible bases you'll need for whichever locking system you want to use.

Hi, i'm here again xD
I'm trying to figure if it's best print the full 2x2 or the half tiles with internal walls..
Do you have any tips on what it's the best to print for a dungeon? (maybe with the procedural style in mind so i don't have to print 200pieces)

regards, Marco.

This is largely going to be a question of taste. For the standard dungeon tiles, I generally don't publish low wall versions (there are a few in cut stone). They are intended to be compatible with systems like Dwarven Forge. Some people prefer full walls (I do), some prefer low walls, mostly because it's easier to see the minis.

If you want to do low walls I would suggest doing openlock: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2787904

I don't publish windows/doors/special tiles in low, I figure that those pieces can be full height, so you will still want some full height tiles:

OpenLOCK Dungeon Stone Low Primary Walls
OpenLOCK Dungeon Stone Primary Doors

Hmm, That’s Funny
I have a basic beginner’s printer w/o a heated bed and have a problem with warping in the corners. Have tried warming the room, slathering glue stick on the print bed, and added brims which occasionally work. Rafts work pretty well but are difficult to remove from a large flat surface they were not intended to be used with like the “dungeon_stone_wall.floor.2x2.”

So I tried rotating the piece up on its edge which worked like a champ, perfectly flat and square, raft not too difficult to remove, and as a bonus, I can print 16 at a time! However there is a funny side effect, the stone faces are very smooth due to the finer of resolution of the Z axis. Gone is the pixel-ation from the 0.2 layers at the surface of the stone while retaining the stone detail. Haven’t noticed any weakness in the piece with the change of layering.

see comparison image at --> https://github.com/willnotreply2u/Thingiverse/blob/master/IMG_20180316_110437.jpg

Thought you might find this outcome interesting.

P.S. Really like your work, signed up to support your continued effort on Patron, cheers

I've done a little experimenting with this too. Actually, look at the main picture on this thing and you can see that the floor for this piece was printed that way. it can be hard to get some pieces to print that way, or it may require splitting them into more pieces, but the results can be really great.

Thank you for your support!

As a general rule over the past year or so, I've transitioned to trying to pack detail in on the Z axis.

I see the orientation now, thought it was due to yours being a better printer.