This lamp (a mix of laser cutting and 3D printed parts) started as an idea one day when playing with a scad script to create slot patterns in 1/8" wood with my laser cutter. I liked how the slotted wood allowed slits of light to shine thru, creating pretty shadows.
This lamp has 2 versions. The open-top version (pictured) and the closed-top version.
The finished lamps were coated with XTC-3D and sanded smooth. Then primed, painted with a metallic paint, and finished with a few glossy clear coats.
- 1x - Bottom.stl
- 1x - Top.stl [or Top_(Open).stl -- if creating open top version)
- 1x - Top_Ring.stl (Only if printing open top version)
- 3x - Pillar.stl
- 3X - Rubber foot.stl
- 6X (2 per shade minimum) - Wood_Form.stl -- See Instructions for details on this piece
All parts printed in PLA, expect "Rubber Feet" which I printed in NinjaFlex
- 1/8" (3.2mm) plywood (to create 3x lamp shades)
- file: _Slotted_LampShade.dxf
- .003 Diffusion Sheet (only for open-top version)
Prepare the slotted lamp shades
The shades need to be steamed and bent to a slight curve. You will use the Word Form.stl printed tools to hold the pieces in place after steaming the wood.
- You need steam. I used a steam iron, cranked up to create lots of steam.
- Sandwich a single lamp shade in paper towels, lay flat, and then apply steam with the iron.
- Continue to do this, moving the iron over the wood to saturate the wood in steam
- After about 30-45 seconds, slow curve the wood (from the center outward)
- Use the Wood Form tool to hold the shade in place.
- Do this 2 more times for the other 2 shades.
- Leave overnight and let the humidity reduce in the wood. Do not remove the Wood Form tools
- Apply several generous coats of mineral oil to both sides of the shades. This will keep the wood from cracking/breaking, plus it gives great depth to the wood.
- I let these sit and soak up all the oil for a couple days with the Wood Form tools left on.
Preparing and Wiring Up the Base
- Push in 3x M3 nuts in the base. These are used to secure the rubber feet later.
- Pull the lamp cord thru the bottom round hole. Create a knot in the wire to keep the cord from being pulled back out.
- Put the lamp socket on the bottom base, aligning the mount holes in the socket with the base. With the lamp wire out of the way, insert the the 2 M4x30mm screws from the bottom of the base and thru the lamp socket. Use 2 M4 nuts to secure the socket to the base.
- Attach the wires to the socket and tighten down
- Screw in the light bulb and test your work.
Prepare the Open Top
Only required if building the open-top version
- Run a small bead of super glue around the inner rim of the top piece. Keep the glue to the outermost area so the glue doesn't become visible around the opening.
- Lay down the diffuser in its opening. Press down to make sure the glue spreads, but keep it away from the opening. Let this dry/set.
- Once the diffuser is set, apply the Top Ring piece over the diffused piece and apply more glue to secure the Ring to the Top piece. This is to act as a reinforcement so the diffuser piece isn't easily detached.
Attaching the Lamp Shades and Pillars to Lamp Top
- Before gluing anything, dry-fit all 3 shades and pillars to make sure they all fit in place. You will want to make sure all shades fit correctly in their curved slots on the TOP of the lamp.
- You will notice that the top and the bottom of the Pillar pieces have 3mm holes. These are used for alignment and attaching the lamp. For the top of my lamps, I used 3mm printer filament for alignment. It's not required, but helps.
- Once everything aligns and fits properly, disassemble your pieces and one-at-a-time, you will glue the shades and pillars to the top of the lamp.
- First add a deep bead of glue inside one of the slots where the lampshade will fit.
- Push the curved lampshade into the glue-filled slot.
- Add glue to the top-side of a pillar and attached to 1 side of the shade. We only need to glue the top (not the sides) of the pillars.
- Repeat this process until you have all 3 shades and pillars attached to the top of the lamp.
- Leave the lamp upside down (e.g. the lamp top should be resting on the table). This is to keep the glue from running down the lamp shades. We want the glue to stay in the slots and harden. Leave it overnight to fully cure.
Attaching the top and the bottom
- Carefully align the assembled top piece with the bottom piece. The shades should drop into the slots on the bottom based and no gap should exist between the base and the pillars.
- The bottom of the lamp uses 6x M3x30 screws to attach the bottom to the pillars. Tighten all 6 evenly.
- Using the 3x M3x8mm screws, attach the rubber feet to the base.