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ljbrumfield

TronXY X5S New Y Gantry bracket

by ljbrumfield Dec 27, 2017
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Hey first of all nice work! Since there are so many different versions now could you please provide me a list of all parts i need to print?
I printed the YGantry46mmBlockBearingMod already twice and i am not quite sure how many spacers i need and wich corner brackets i should use.

You need one spacer for each part. Every part gets one spacer. All I can say is look at the pictures. There are 3 different corner mounts. Standing in front of the machine, #1 or rather no number goes on the left side. The right side takes a 2 if your Z limit switch bracket is on the inside of your machine (like mine) If your limit switch mount is on the outside it needs to be a 3. It probably needs to be my limit switch design also because I never tested it with anything else so you might want to look into that.

How has this mod been holding up? Has anyone had any issues with the rails being mounted on the side?

Mine are holding up great. The bearings are designed to operate in any position. From the datasheet....

"Gothic arch contact design can sustain the load from all directions and offer high rigidity and high accuracy."

I would clean them with solvent and then lubricate them with some white lithium grease before you install them. They come pretty dirty from the factory.

I appreciate the reply. I'm thinking about replacing the cheap balls in the bearings with 3/32" Inch Chrome Steel Bearing Balls. Apparently that makes them MUCH better and they aren't expensive. Have you tried that?

I wasn't aware of that. I bought the cheap ones..... straight from China off ebay. Now I see in the datasheet that they have different accuracy classes, but I'm getting good results with these. I mean the normal accuracy class is + or - .04mm. The precision class is + or - 0.01mm. Thats small in comparision to a .4mm nozzle. Of course if the price is negligible go for the good stuff. I don't know if I'd replace the bearings though. It would be better to try and source the precision class bearing you want.

That's true. But a lot of people say they are making cheap Chinese linear bearings much better quality by replacing the balls. And I'm kind of a DIY guy and I figured for $5 worth of chrome balls and little time, it's worth a try.

My X5S prints decent now. It's a newer one and came with some upgrades like actual pulleys, eccentric nuts on the carriages, belt aligned better etc. But if can get better prints, I'm going to do it.

Yeah go for it. You wont be disappointed. I'm printing up to 120mm/s and travel moves set at 400mm/s. I can't print any faster or the nozzle gets too cool and it will jam up. I usually print at 100mm/s with infill @ 120mm/s. I think that's fast enough.

Check out some of the other stuff I made to go with the X5S. The overhead extruder is an upgrade you might want to consider once you get everything else done.

https://www.thingiverse.com/ljbrumfield/collections/tronxy-x5s-upgrades

Wow that's fast. Are you using an E3D Volcano?

Nope. Stock extruder with my cooling fan w/heat shield. No insulation on the heat block. (look at the pics)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020392

Here's my settings for Curaengine. I use the fast settings almost all the time.Sometimes I dial it down to 80% for the first layer if it has alot of intricacy or use a slower setting if its a very small part.

I guess I should add I print PLA at 225-230C & PETG 245-250C and I have to slow it down to at most 80% for PETG.

TronXY X5S Hot End Cooling Fan w/heat shield & ABL mount

That's fast. I'm hoping to get a little better print quality. Linear rails seem like a good thing to try. Maybe a 32 bit board and 2209 drivers later on but I'm not sure if that will help with quality or not.

Your print quality is gonna get ALOT better (and faster). If you're not doing it already use the Z hop feature in Cura (Z lift in Slic3r) to raise the nozzle (0.2mm) when your making moves to keep the nozzle from dragging. That will help too.

And use a drybox & dry filament. That affects print quality more than anything.

Your print quality is gonna get ALOT better (and faster). If you're not doing it already use the Z hop feature in Cura (Z lift in Slic3r) to raise the nozzle (0.2mm) when your making moves to keep the nozzle from dragging. That will help too.

Thank you, For all you do, It helps a old man out like me. Smiles

Thanks, didnt want to order the wrong size

Wanting to upgrade the pulleys, what is the correct tpi 20? and size 1d5 od18mm? to order. You have some great mods, going to try many of them.
Thanks

Yes they're 20 tooth ID5 OD18. (Inside Diameter 5mm) (Outside Diameter 18mm). You need 6 with teeth and 2 smooth.

Hi ljbrumfield,

first thank you very much for your designs. Your nut holes are bigger than my m5 nuts so they won't tight fit and freely spin. Are you able to change these? (Or upload the scad where i am able to do this?) In you current scad i can't change this...

Thank you very much

Find this line in the SCAD file >>> cylinder(h = 4.6, r = 4.6,$fn=6, center = true);

Change the value of "r" to a smaller value.

Measure your nut from point to point not flat to flat in mm's. Thats the diameter of the circle. Add .2 for a little play and divide by 2 for the radius.

You could go to the hardware store and see if they have the size you need to fit if you already printed it or use what you have & fill the void with epoxy.

thank you very much for explaination i searched the whole code for hexagon or rectangles rotated :D didn't think it was called a circle. So now i noticed the y gantry's has the correct size. I noticed your corner mounts are with bigger sizes: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2720038/files
but there are no scad files. Could you please upload them or adjust the size to r=4.6 ? Thank you very much ljbrumfield

TronXY X5S X Y Corner Pulley Mount

difference()
{
cylinder(h = 5, r=6, $fn=200, center = true);
cylinder(h = 5, r = 2.55, $fn=100, center = true);
translate([0,0,1])
rotate([0,0,0])
cylinder(h = 3, r = 4.6,$fn=6, center = true);
}

Edit the nut size and then render this^^^. Using Blender, Repetier host or whatever slicing program you use, move it to the center of the hole you want to change and flush it with the top then slice. Or go spend 10 cents on some nuts & bolts that fit.

Wherever I used the larger nut sizes the depth of the recess is less also. I used 10-24 screws with regular non-locking nuts because they are lower profile and thats what I wanted. 10-32 would be better, but I had some 10-24's and they worked fine. Maybe 5mm non-locking nuts will fit? I don't know.

hey ljbrumfield, thank you for you help :) I know how to change the diameter because of your first answer. I meant there are no scad files available for your CORNER MOUNTS so i can adjust... The problem is my stores (germany) only sell DIN screws so the size is 8.79mm for M5... But i got a new idea and maybe you interested? The GT2 teeth pulley and non teeth pulley are a good thing but in use with M5 screws they aren't really good because the don't fit tight so the bearing will spin. The whole bore face will spin on the thread. Because of this the pulleys scream while moving and they also wear off. So my idea is to use M4 Screws with sleeve like this: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-St-M-4-Hulsenmuttern-Senkkopf-Edelstahl-1-4301-pas-zu-DIN-7991-Hulsenmutter/222230225540?hash=item33bdf42284%3Ag%3A9FoAAOSwkShY-dPD&_sacat=0&_nkw=M4+zu+M5+h%C3%BClse&_from=R40&rt=nc
So for this i need the scad files of your corner mounts also please. Hope you will share. I don't want to publish these here (If you interested i could send you them and you could upload these here...)

My bearing sound fine and I don't see any evidence of wear. Maybe your belts are to tight if you have bearings screaming or maybe you have a bad bearing.

You have a pretty good idea, but if you ever have to change your pulleys you will have to take the corner pulley mounts off the machine. The way it is now you can just raise up on it without even having to loosen the belt too change it.

Anyway the SCAD is unavailable. I share this SCAD because the skew correction adjustment is useful and I'm cool like that. I used to share SCAD's but people ignored my license terms.... https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/ .... and started selling my stuff on Fartbook so I took them down.

Okay thank you for your explaination. But you don't have to unmount the whole mount! We will use all the nuts you use. The sleeve is only a extra thing which has not to be really tight so you are always able to easy unscrew the sleeve und change the pulley :) hope you understand and really hope you will do a new design Sir ;) thank you for your great designs

Yeah ok I get it.... You're just using the half the bearing rides on. Give me the radius of the bolt threads, screw head & nut (measure point to point and add .2mm).... depth of screw head and depth of nut....... and I will make them and add them here since you are so persistent & it is a good idea. What do you want them called?

Yeah exactly :) Radius of bolt thread is 2.1mm (for M4 screws). Screw and nut radius are 3.93mm (already added 0.2 to 7.66 and devided by 2, this is now for M4 DIN screws). Depth of screw head are 2.8mm and nut head are 3.2mm (also for M4 DIN screws). Thank you very much for designing this. I don't need the credits so feel free to name it. I only want to use this improved solution then i am happy ;) thank you
Note Screws are DIN 933 and nuts are DIN 934.

Ok i updated 2 mistakes. Should work now with corrections above..

Hello, I'm printing all the stuff: X, Y and corners support for linear rails. I've bought 3x 400mm Linear rails and I'm almost read to upgrade my X5S. I suppose that I will ask You some questions. I hope in your help in the near future. Thanks very much and compliments for your big improvment!

Before I start wit a lot of question can i have here the exact list of all the pieces that I've to print to install correctly the three linear rails in place of the original pulley guides.

I suppose I have to print:

For Y carriage:
2x X_Y_Gantry_for12mmpulleys46mmblock.stl
2x spacerM5lockingnut.stl

For X carriage:
1x New_X_Gantry46mmBlock.stl
1x New_X_Gantry_2_46mmBlock.stl

For corners:
2x CornerPulleyMount3for12mmpulleys.stl

Did I have right understood ?

Thank you very much

Enry

Thanks for the compliments. It really is a big improvement. I finally got all my parts and put it together and I'm printing 200+mm/s and 400mm/s travel moves. It looks like your list is correct except for the corner pulley mounts. You need a CornerPulleyMount1for12mmpulleys.stl and a CornerPulleyMount2for12mmpulleys.stl or a CornerPulleyMount3for12mmpulleys.stl depending on what side of the 20x20 rail your limit switch is mounted on. Download them all and look at them in your slicer program and see how they are different and made specific to one side or the other.

The rail data sheet says they are 45.4mm wide. The first set I got was 49mm wide. I made 2 different versions for the 2 different sizes. You may want to wait and see what you get.

You also need 2x spacerM5lockingnut.stl for the corner pulley mounts as well. Make sure you're printing out square parts before you start. Good luck with your build and if you have anymore questions I'd be happy to help.

My Micro Swiss MK8 hotend upgrade kit came in yesterday to make the transformation complete.

Lee

Thank you very much Lee for your precious help! I will measure the rail carriage length and after that, just to be shure, I will post the measure so I will be shure to print the right parts ;-)

I've also ordered the Chimera hotend just to have double matter or the double color capability. This will be my next improvement. Firt of you the your that is the best solution that I've seen on the web. See you soon and thank you again.

What is your suggestion: keep the endstop inside or outside the cabinet ?

Enry

If you're talking about the Z limit switch mount I would say on the inside. Thats how mine is....The Y Z limit bracket fits good under there, but It all depends on where the Z limit adjustment screw wound up when you put it together. The Z limit adjustment screw is a 3mm threaded hole 25mm from the end of the metal Z bearing holder plate. It's slightly off center. Assemble it with the hole closest to the inside of the bed if you haven't put it together already. I didn't see it on your list.... here it is.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658561

The Micro swiss upgrade I ordered doesn't work with the X5S hot end or I ordered the wrong one. I was looking at those Chimera's. Let me know how that turns out for ya.

TronXY X5S Immovable Y Z Limit mount

Thank you very much. I let you informed.
For all ther parts I will use 50% infill. Do you agree ?

Use 100% for everything except maybe the cable chain brackets and limit switch mount.

Bearings will be here this weekend. The parts turned out fantastic.

What length of Linear Sliding Miniature Guide Block is needed?

2 @ 400mm. 400mm is the size for the X gantry too so ya might as well get 3.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789775

TronXY X5S New X Gantry bracket

I ordered pretty much the same parts a few weeks ago and am awaiting delivery. What size fasteners are you using? Mostly concerned between SAE and metric. I would assume M5 for the pulley mounts? I'm going to try and use the on-frame adjustable tower mounts but otherwise the same setup belt/pulley wise.

Hi

Great question. I made it to where you can re-use the M5 screws and locking nuts. I put the nuts into the plastic upside down and the pulleys sit right on top of the nut with no washer. The hardware to mount the rail is M3x7mm & M3 T-nuts. Get 25 of each. 8 for each rail, 4 for each bearing block and one spare.

This will work with any stock setup or any other upgrade that keeps the pulleys on the same horizontal plane, but they may not line up exactly (side to side) with different motor mounts and corner pulley mounts other than the ones I made.

Yeah sure once I get it put together. I have the rails already, but I'm still waiting on the pulleys. (read the summary)

Hey, can you post some pictures how it looks like finished?

I would say the rails need to be mounted on the top of the 2020. But love where you are going with this.

If I mounted it on top the height from the 20x20 to the top of the bearing block would be 13mm. Add the piece to the top of that (minimum 3mm more) and you're looking at 16mm. The top of the plate now is at 8mm. I would have to change the corner pulley mounts to a height of 16mm and the motor mounts would have to be raised an additional 8mm. This way it will work with a stock setup without changing anything else.

I think it will be fine like I have it...... cruising along 1.5mm above the top of the 20x20 .

fair enough buddy do you have any plans for the same mod on the X axis?

No. .....I don't think it needs it the way I have my X axis done. Look at the blurry pictures of how it's set up with first gantry bracket I made.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2626343

TronXY X5S Gantry bracket

You would put them on the top right? Quantity 2 @ 400mm

Interesting, but I would put them on, not to the side.
How did you order them? 3 items "500mm"?