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agepbiz

Surprise Egg #4 - Tiny Excavator

by agepbiz Dec 17, 2017
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Wow, that's genius! thanks for sharing

These Surprise Eggs are So AWESOME!!! :D
Thanks for sharing all of these marvelous designs with us! :)

Thank you for the nice words!

Welcome Bro! :)
Keep up your most excellent work! ;)

Coolest. Thing. Ever !!

my 6yr old daughter has placed an order with me for 30 of them to give to her school friends!!

now i just need to figure out how much to charge her !! ;-)

Haha! Thats great :)

PS Kör med Addnorth E-PLA. Testa, Skandinavisk kvalitet (ingen afilliation)

Tack för din otroliga kreativitet och precision! Dina ägg spöar Benchy som stresstest för min skrivare (Creality CR-20 Pro) och möjligheten att finjustera Cura. För att inte tala om bonusen att se glädjen hos ungarna när de får en överraskning att leka med. Jag bugar och bockar till min granne i väst. //David

Tusen takk for fine ord! Det er virkelig motiverende å høre det!
Mvh
Stian

As you can see, I got the egg to print and open! Progress! I tried the dump truck this time as you can see, but with the same results for wheels and the dumper. I slowed everything way down and am at .1mm. Should all of my layers be at .1mm? I can't wrap my head around how the axle gets surrounded by an area in which to turn. Seems like the filament would be sitting on air for a bit. Is that where bridging comes in? I can't seem to find many controls over bridging in my slicing software. Again, any advice would help. I would like to thin that a 2 week old printer doesn't need any mechanical adjustments! (this print was in tough PLA)

0.1 for everything is a good choice. You can go higher in some places on the egg, but I would wait until you have more experience. Yes, printing in air is where bridging comes in. Slic3r has some bridge settings, but I can't recall if Cura does. Mostly it comes down to running your fan on high during bridging so the filament solidifies in mid-air. Nearly all hobby-level printers will require tuning. Moreover, and especially when printing with tight tolerances as in this case, every roll of filament requires calibration of settings. Perhaps the two most important issues to avoid in this case are "over-extrusion" and "elephant's foot".

Hi! Great toys! I'm new to 3D printing and because of that I bought a very inexpensive printer made by xyzprinting. I had wondered if it was my printer that made the moving parts not work, but I can get all three pivot points on the arm to work. I just can't get the wheels and body to move. Are there any suggestions you can give me for adjusting the print settings? My printer won't work with the more advanced slicers (so I'm told) so I'm stuck using the software the printer company makes, which I believe is somewhat limited. Any advice for getting all the parts to move would be awesome!

Thanks!

A photo of the print would help to spot any problems. Hard to tell what the issue might de. Usually if parts fuse it is because of oferextruding and you need to lower the feedrate. Not sure how and if this is done in your slicer. If you want to try to free the wheels try wiggle the in and out (sideways), do not try to rotate them since that probably will snap the axels

It is a bit hard to judge from the photos due to the blackness of the filament, but the layers looks a bit uneven. Make sure all the belts and stuff on your printer is tight so you get no wobble. Also try to reduce the speed of the printing

I do have some extruding options. Extrusion ratio I believe is what it is called. Here is a pic of the print. Sorry if the pic is there twice!

Wow what filament is that that is that nice dark yellow color?

That yellow was some leftover Makerbot Yellow PLA that I bought about 6 years ago

Do you think you could make one of these with a crane? An AT crane more specifically.

Yeah a crane like that are in my want-to-do list. Not sure if and when though

So great and so cute !

My son will like it a lot.

Congratz for the quality of the design !

I guess recent mods on my tevo (dual mgn for Y axis, dual Z, no autolevel) helped me a lot.

Thanks

I think these eggs are awesome. I have been able to successfully print all of the vehicles except this one. The blade or bumper keeps breaking even on the extended version. Guess I will have to pass on that one. Thanks for the great designs.

Thank you! I am sorry that you are having problems with the excavator :(

I will keep experimenting.

Please do! And thank you for the recent uploads of the makes, I really enjoy seeing the photos!

I'm real fan of your surprisse eggs design.
I made one as gift to a person who works with an excavator and is going to retire (I personalized the egg with his name).

And now I'm printing all the collection as present fot my niece (with her name too).

I Printed the excavator with 0,1 infill and the egg with 0,3 infill. With a (modified) AnetA8, and it goes perfect.

Thanks a lot about the design

Thats nice! I hope they will like the little gift :)

I'm sure. Thanks a lot!!! ;)

Great work man! I started by printing to my kids, but I ended up printing for me as well... lovable collection! Great work of art.

Excuse me! I do have a question. Are we supposed to repose, and put the excavator, inside the egg? Or do we print it in its original position you have in the files?

Print it as it is in the file, flat on the buildplate. No raft or support structures. then print the egg as it is, also no raft or support. When printed, open the egg and put the excavator inside

Does not work for me on Ender-3, 0.1mm layers. Tried many attempts. Problem is blob after travel to the corner ner wheels. Alrerady after 2-3 layers I have a blob there, and I get more blobs in wheel area.Will later cause problems, and I can hear when nozzle starts hitting the mountains.

Looking at the extruder, it will move 2.4mm^3 filament per mm = 90 e-steps. So 0.0266m^3 per e-step.
The nozzle is 0.4mm so area of 0.125mm^2. That means at 0.1mm layer, there is room for 0.0125mm^3 filament.

So if we extrude 1 e-step after move, when we are not moving/moving slow, we will extrude twice the amount there is room for, causing overextrusin/blob.

I can see that original Prusa i3 Mk2 uses 170-ish e-steps/mm, so it would not have the same issue. Not sure if this is the cause of my problems. Wiil try 0.2 later today, and maybe switch to a geared extruder.

Printed just fine on my Ender 3 using 0.1 layer heights, 20% infill, 60mm/s speed and some very very cheap filament.

Maybe you should calibrate the machine, tune your slicer settings and check that nothing is lose on your machine. Especially take note that the filament feeder isn't slipping, I had issues on mine and had to add extra tension to the spring.

Can also confirm no issues on Ender 3

Thank you for your feedback! Yeah the Ender 3 do print very well. I just got one myself and I am currently designing a new egg that I have printed on the Ender 3. It actually prints a lot better than my Makerbot

dammit you could've done Eggxavator

Hi... a very clever design, thanks a lot... I'm currently using excavator_v2.stl as a reference model to optimize small parts on a Prusa I3 and a CoreXY printer but (like many others) have a hard time fighting the curling up of the overhanging scraper edges. Massive cooling improved things a bit, but haven't found a reliable setup yet.

Funny enough, there's almost no curling up (and thus, no parts kicked off the built plate by the nozzle), using that trusty old Makerbot Replicator 2! That is to say, it prints fine when using the Makerware slicer (kinda recent version I think) but haven't had success with Simplify3D yet with its default Replicator 2 profile (sole modifications: 0.1mm layer height, 3 shells, 40% infill).

Question: would you want to share (add to the files section) the .fff profile you're using?

A cooler at 100% with airflow directed precisely towards the nozzle helps me always with overhangs.

I'm on my first 3 days of 3d printer ownership. I have a Flashforge Dreamer that I got used with 40 hours on it. It was shipped to my house and I am not sure if it needs calibrated X & Y or how to do it even.

I have printed about 5 things so far, including the scissor lift which functioned correctly after print. However, when I printed this, I had a few issues after it was all done and was hoping for some guidance from the knowledge base.

On the excavator, 2 of the wheels are fused and the bottom base won't rotate. The arm functions great.

On the egg, it won't open. It appears that the bottom hinge is fused in 2 places.

I used your suggested setting of 1mm and 40% infill. Printed PLA using 210 and a bed of 60. Only reason I am asking you is because this part is intricate and probably considered a good test of your machines accuracy in which something is awry.

Thanks!

Hi, I love the prints. I would like to mention an issue and how I resolved it. You said not to use brims, but for my first two attempts I didn't use brains and they both failed. Parts of it would lose adhesion to the bed and pop off. I used brims on my third print and it printed perfectly. I would highly recommend using brims if you plan on printing this. My printer is a Prusa i3 MK3.

HI, it's a nice job, but I've only one problem with back bumper, 4 times it breaks before the end. The part is too tiny, it unstiky from the bed... I never had this problem. Should I print with rafts ?

My config :
CR10
size 0.1 (with a 0.3 nozzle)
infil 20%
No raft
No support
Nozzle 200°
Bed 60°
Print Speed 50mms

Thanks a lot, best regards

Hi. Did you try the "extended" version with bigger scraper? I do not recommend raft on these

Hi, sorry I had read the instructions after post my message, I will try with extended file. (I printed with raft : border, and supports, it works, but I'll prefer the extented version), sorry for my english, I'm French. Thanks a lot !!!

Also these surprise eggs has been designed to not need support

This is amazing - thank you!

I absolutely love this series will there be more comming out!?

Thanks! I hope to make many more

Please do a tiny tractor and combine :) Printing all of your current ones right now, on my brand new Prusa I3 MK3 hope they turn out amazing

This model needs support structures of some kind around the small bits that flank the wheels. No matter how good the bed surface is, they WILL get knocked over. Can't use a brim, as that screws up the parts of the model that need to be able to move. Maybe add "mouse ears".

My first print failed due to the excavator coming off the bed. I tried again but this time I was very diligent in adjusting my bed/nozzle height. I used a piece of non stick aluminum foil (it's thicker that regular foil) to level my bed. This time it worked like a charm. The only problem i'm having is the shovel part doesn't articulate very well. I'm using a stock Creality Ender 3.

I have no problems printing them on my old MakerBot so these are printable without support. These models do require a well calibrated printer and temperature control, also what kind of bed do you have? any extra bed adhesion? Did you try the extended version of the excavator?

Warning: long post ahead. Go make some coffee and a sandwich. :-)

Mine's a significantly-modified Prusa i3 clone. I've done everything humanly possible to make my bot perform well, though the hotend's pretty worn out. This model took about 2 hours to print once I dealt with the adhesion issue, which seems reasonable to me.

I don't mean to be overly critical, but you've broken a few rules of 3d printable design, which I think is a large part of why folks are having trouble with this model. The rest would be slicer or possibly firmware bugs. Here's a list of everything I ran into trying to print this model:

Those scraper bits have too little bed contact. They'd be fine if they were only a millimeter or so tall, but they end up getting tall enough that they get knocked over before they can be joined together above the lower pair of wheels, because of increasingly-steep overhangs (a necessary evil here). I solved that by pulling the model into Blender and adding little ears to the outermost sides (away from the wheels), to increase the bed contact area. This is the only change I made to the model. Some users might need a third ear at the end of the scoop also (though I didn't).

Under the cabin, there are deformed edges, though they don't seem to cause a problem.

Many overhangs are over 45°, causing them to just not print well, especially the front window. When combined with the inset window cut on its adjacent side, you get this little "dog-leg" (in cross-section) running up the front-outer corner. Looks nice on the model, but the narrow line width required by the below-mentioned thin walls is too narrow to print steep overhangs this layer thickness, so the overhang corners get smeared out. It's been my experience that you simply can't get a good overhang with 0.1 mm or smaller layers unless you make the lines really wide. The wider the lines, the lower the detail, of course.

The sidewalls are too thin around the joints in the middle of the arm and on the scoop, and one side of the scoop's hinge is thinner than the other. These walls are thin enough that one must use a line width of 0.4 mm or less, which I can't (see above). Try to go wider and the loops will overextrude, since there's no room to lay them down at the proper spacing. If you set the line width to something wider, both Slic3r and KISSlicer can turn these walls into single, extra-wide lines. Problem is, both slicers have bugs that prevents this from working right. I suggest thickening those walls to 1.3 mm, to allow for two max-0.6-mm perimeters (plus gap fill/crowning). Mind you, the joints break loose and operate okay, its just that the walls need to be a little thicker to make those slicers happy (on the other hand, Cura handles this okay).

I don't intend to print it, but the egg really should be laid open and printed with its flat sides down. Instead of using a hook/clip, modify the hinge itself to create the geometry needed to keep the egg closed (maybe use a cam and primitive leaf spring). You'll need to adjust the geometry to account for bridging sag if you do that.

excellent knowledge and analysis. i learned a few things just by reading your reply. i dont know how correct you are but it sure seems spot on.

Almost impossible to me since always a part fron or end releases from bed, and the windows frame curls as it's more than 45 degrees angle. Is it necessary to use a closed printer?? any one has succeded in a Prusa type printer??

I printed this on a Prusa i3 MK3 and succeeded. My first two attempts failed due to issues with bed adhesion, so I added a brim for the third attempt and it printed perfectly.

This is an amazing model - thank you! moving pieces, and scales up nicely. Didn't print the egg, but the excavator was very very well received. thank you!

Thank you. I appreciate the feedback

Hello - awesome models, so cool!

I am having one issue, however. The small pieces in front of and behind the wheels keep breaking off the build plate 1/3 of the way through the print causing the rest of the build to fail. I have slowed my travel speed down, added a z-hop, cleaned my bed and am using hairspray. I am also sure my nozzle is close enough to the bed (it may be too close if anything). Any other thoughts on what may be causing this?

Thanks!

I ran into the same problem on several attempts as well. I'm using a PEI surface (cleaned and re-leveled) and usually the adhesion is really good, but those little bits in front and back just keep messing up part way through the print. I may try some of the other things you mentioned, but if they didn't work for you, not sure how likely they are to work for me.

Printed the fire truck (and it's egg) the other night. They both turned out great!

Thanks - just tried again with blue painters tape + glue but still no luck. Mine failed right before the lay which would have connected those mall pieces to the rest of the model. So close!

Sorry for the delay but I have just added a reinforced version. Please let me know how it goes if you are able to test it

I'll try to make a reinforced version for those who have problems printing the scraper. But it will have to wait till after the easter

I have a hard time printing this on an AnyCubic I3 Mega, even at 150% size.
The main problem I have is that somewhen in the print, my extruder gets clogged and therefore no filament can push through anymore. I'm not sure what the problem is. I have the feeling that the printer has issues with retraction and pulls material back in and clogs the extruder. I'm using Cura for slicing and already made the retraction settings less aggressive.
Also the front window curls up slightly but that evens out after a few layers and wasn't an issue.
Is there anyone who could successfully print this with an I3 Mega and what were the settings used?
Thanks for your help.

I have an I3 Mega and just printed 4 of these without an issue at 100% size.
I used 0.1 layer height and 40% infill like the author suggested.
I have the bed at 60 and nozzle at 210.
I have retraction settings at 10mm distance and 0.8 travel.
And I'm using Cura 3.2.1

I did have some similar problems with my MakerBot a few years ago. The printer stopped extruding mid print almost on every print. I suspected a clogged nozzle, but changing the nozzle did not help. I also changed the drive gear and stepper motor.. but no, I was about go give up. What finally fixed it might sound a bit weird, a dab of canola oil on the filament (!!!). I add a single drop on my fingertips and apply it on the filament right above the extruder, and let it run through the hotend. This is something I do every 100hr of printing, and I have never had the problem since. I also printed a filament duster with a sponge.. It stop a lot of crap entering the nozzle

At 0.1mm, 40% infill, the front cabin window borders keep getting completely messed up. Everything else is flawless. Any ideas?

The window frame wont get perfect, but should not get completely messed up either :p Do you have a photo of it?

Hi agepbiz.

Sure, here's a photo of multiple failures. Printer is Wanhao i3 plus. I've been printing things with really good quality.
Any help would be welcome :)

Hi, I just tried to print the excavator v2 with my ender 2 wothout any mods (my first 3d printer, I got it 4 days ago so I am a total newbie). The side on the bed it's not good whilst the rest came up fine. Any ideas?
I've been using Cura as a slicer.
Thanks

Is this your first print? If not, how did the other prints come out? It kind of looks like your printbed is not calibrated correctly, that the nozzle is way to high up on the during the first layers, making the filament barely stick

see illustration:
https://support.me3d.com.au/hc/article_attachments/333756970535/nozzel-height-1024x568.png

Something like my fourth. The previous one had the same issue. As for the levelling, the hot tip has really a tight grip on the sheet of paper, moreover I printed using rafts. Does a bad levelling affects a lot even with rafts?

I suggest printing these designs without raft if possible. A raft always gives a worse first layer than printing directly on the build bed imo. I only use raft if I print big where curling might happen or if I struggle with first layer adhesion

I mounted a fan duct, set first layer height to 0.3 mm (printed at 0.1). The results are better, but not perfect (front wheels don't spin and a broken part)

The width of the wheels facing the buildplatform (the first layers) are much wider than the wheels on the other side, meaning that there is too much plastic being extruded. So either it is overextruding (are the axle stuck all the way?) or the nozzle is now too close. Try lowering your feedrate (in Simplify3D that setting is called Extrusion Multiplier, not sure what it is called in Cura). The overall surface looks very nice though!

Yes, the surface is super! Tried with the tip a little higher and 90% feedrate in cura but no luck... I stopped the print as the same small piece tore away.
I printed the egg (100% rate but noozle a little bit higher). Is this a normal result?
Thanks for your help!

Now it looks like your nozzle is to high again. The first layer is supposed to look smooth and shiny. Also I see that the eggshape is not correct, its "dented", and I believe that is due to too little cooling. I have also added a photo of the bottom of my egg so that you can see how it is supposed to look

Comments deleted.

This is just spam

How does the egg break apart of "print in place." I printed it first in place and couldnt get it to separate. Then printed it separately but the two halves of the eggs are meant to be fitted together so that didn't work. Would really like to make this work. Thanks

If the parts are fused together your printer is most likely overextruding, only the snap-fit lock in the top should keep the egg locked. Lower your flowrate. In Simplify3D that setting is called "Extrusion Multiplier", not sure what it is called in other slicers

thanks, tweaked the flowrate and printed perfectly, really excited about using these for the kids easter egg hunt this year!

Thats awesome!

Probably one of the cooler things I have made. It printed perfectly without support. I used simplify 3D with a pretty cheap printer and had no problems on the first try. I would love to see something like this with dinosaurs.

Thanks! I dont think I'll be making eggs with dinosaurs in near future. I am more of an hard surface modeller :(

If you want to truely test the accuracy of your printer then go ahead. 1st attempt - completely fused. Calibrated the extruder and found it was pushing 6mm too much over 100mm! 2nd attempt noticed my rounds were ovals, calibrated the steps/mm and Y OK but X was out by 0.37! 3rd attempt issues with bed levelling, finally bit the bullet and installed the auto bed sensor thats been stilling on my desk for the last 6 months and change my stock firmware to Marlin (ANET A8 Printer). A week of mucking around and testing and finally 4th Attempt it worked. Never thought a crappy AU$200 printer would ever do it but there you go it actually will do it with correctly setting EVERYTHING!

Thats great! Glad you was able to calibrate the printer

What tolerance are all the swivel joints. curious to know what I was able to achieve with my printer

The wheels: 0,3mm
The arm joints: 0,275mm
Not sure where to measure the body joint since it is built in a bit strange way, almost like a tapering hook

I have printed this in both ABS and PLA and I swear there is always a part breaking.. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, I've kajiggered with the flow, the heat, infill, and obviously the material but something ALWAYS breaks unless I scale it up a lot (which isn't so bad). The wheels seem to adhere to the bed overly well and when trying to pull loose from surface the axle snaps or when I do get it free the joint between the base and body snaps..or if that doesn't break one of hinges along the arm seem to snap! Oofs!!

Oh well, I think those points could stand to be slightly thicker or the gap slightly larger (but what do I know??) - I'm going to move on though, your prints are lovely and my son absolutely adores them!!

I am sorry to hear that you have problems printing these. What are the settings you are using? Can you attach a few photos of the failed prints to a reply here?

Hello, loved the models.
Do you have any plans of making more of these?
Thanks

Thank you! Yes indeed. I am working on egg #5 as we speak :) So stay tuned

Hi!

I got a Da Vinci Mini Maker very recently and just tried printing the excavator v2.

The arm is completely rigid, and the wheels are completely stuck too. Trying to force the arm to flex, it broke before moving. Wondering what could be the cause, any hint will be greatly appreciated :).

I printed with the following settings :

No support, raft, brim
Infill : 30% (XYZware goes from 30 straight to 50, can't use 40)
Layer height : 0.1
Shells : Medium (Settings are thin/medium/thick and I see you use "3", not sure what to use. Also, what does this do? :p)

Is there anything above that could cause the issue?

Also, when importing the model, XYZware says it detects "problems" with the model and offers to auto-repair it, which I said yes to. Maybe I should try while saying no? Model looks identical in the preview though.

Here are some blurry photos of what the hinges look like on the arm (you can see how it broke too).

Hi
First of all, these has been designed to be printed without a raft, so remove that option. shells are how many outlines the model gets (walls), I recommend 3 shells since that will make the wheel axles stronger. Do not auto-repair, not sure what that does but it might weld parts together that should not be welded together. If the hinges are fused together it often means that the printer is extruding a bit too much filament, and that is often fixed by lowering the feed rate (In the Simplify3D slicer that setting is called Extrusion Multiplier, not sure what it is called in your slicer if you are not using S3D). I also see some strange layer steps on the printed part in your photo, not sure what causes that, you might need to lower the printer speed to increase precision
I hope this helps, and please let me know how it goes if you do some more tests
Best regards
Stian

Hi, thanks for your reply!

I meant "No support, raft, brim" as in No support, no raft and no brim, sorry for the confusion (since you only mentionned disabling raft, should I enable brim?)

I'll try again soon and let you know!

What setting do you use in the Extrusion Multiplier in Simplify3D? I might try it since they have a "try it free for 2 weeks" refund policy and XYZWare doesn't seem great.

Thanks!

Hi DinoMC

did you manage to print the egg and excavator on the Mini Maker, I haven't received my printer yet but I know my little boy is desperate to print one of these.

Cheers
Total Noob

Hi,

I had more luck with Simplify3D (using 80% extrusion multiplier I think), but it's not perfect :
The arm works great with those settings, flexing at all 3 points, but not the cab (it breaks if you try to force it) and the wheels are completely stuck, that's really the hardest part as highlighted by other comments.
It's worth a print though, looks great and he can play with the arm at least, it's small so you don't really need the wheels to be turning slide it around :)

(Tried printing with lower multiplier but then it breaks everywhere so for a better print I think a better printer is required)

Thanks for the reply, the printer came today but nothing will stick to the bed tried tape and pritt stick glue. Think I might need to call the support line tomorrow :-(

When I ordered the printer there were comments saying to order "Scotch Blue Painter's Tape" with it, which I did. With it I had no issue with prints not sticking to the bed, quite the opposite in fact, it stuck almost too well and I had an hard time getting my prints off the bed.
You could try that if you haven't.
I got this one : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00004Z4DU/

Room temperature plays a part too so YMMV (it's 22°C here).

Good luck! :)

Thanks I'll order some tape, it could be a temp thing it's around 7 degrees C here and I try not to have the heating over 20. My wife and kids would love it to be warmer :-)

No brim either :)
I currently use the default setting on Extrusion Multiplier (0,95 I believe). S3D do slice these models a lot better with default settings than my previous Makerbot slicer ever did (I have a old Makerbot Replicator 2)

This was amazing. I got a Robo3D R1 for christmas and have only printed mods so far to make it better. I tested them with this and it worked perfectly. I didn't know it could print this precise. All the hinges and wheels work perfectly. You are amazing.

Thats great! Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Hi, first off thanks for all of your hard work. These have provided many of us with hours of fun.

My question is, what is the size of your nozzle? I think my .4mm has finally worn out and I need to swap in a new one but I don't see anywhere what size yours is. I'm having issues printing overhangs with ABS and they are slightly better with PLA. Modified Anet A8 printing on heated glass bed .4mm nozzle w/ .2mm layer, extrusion multiplier 94%, 45mm/sec print speed sliced using Octoprint with onboard Cura 15.06.

Hi. My nozzle is 0,4mm, I print only with PLA. I also suggest you print these with 0.1mm layer height. Precision is key

i think many makers will not be aware that the wheels on these machines also spin. For me it's very hard to make them spin, as the bottom layer I get it one piece, and I have to separate all the parts on post, so it took me a while to even find out that the wheels can speen and that turntable can rotate

If your first layer is in one piece I suspect that your nozzle is way to close to the bed and will make the filament bleed out. Try calibrating the z height. Also as a rule of thumb, if the parts are fused the printer is overextruding and the flow rate should be lowered

Really awesome! Reminds me of the Transformers Constructicons :-)

Thanks again. Made all four again at 150% scale with no problems whatsoever. I wish I had skill to do this great work.

Awesome! I would love it if you also uploaded the files as a make. That will make the photos easier for people to see and make my models more visible. Just click the "I made one" in the upper right menu

Wow. Sons loved these. Thank you so much

Thank you for the comment!

My granddaughter loves it. I would like to be able to put in a Hershey Kiss in one to surprise her. Long story, but she would.

very very good ..great man !

"Some have printed very large versions of my eggs and they work. But since the tolerance between parts also scales they will become a bit more wobbly" The egg was a bridge too far for my stock (no mods) CR10, the hinges kept braking when I tried to open them. 150% works nicely though.
I get printing an axle/bearing without them sticking together when the extruder is axial but I don't understand why it works when the extruder is radial?
We need one of these for an R22 helicopter.

Sorry I never noticed this comment :( Usually when the hinges are fused it means the printer is overextruding. You should try reducing the flowrate. I use simplify3D and in S3D there is a setting called "Extrusion Multiplier"

would it be hard to make bigger one? I just printed 200% and it is too loose. I like it a lot thou :) making soon a "i made it"

The threshold was dialed in for a tiny model. Since this isnt a parametric model it is a bit too much work to make a bigger one. You could try too overextrude the model to see if it will get tighter. Increase the feedrate (Extrusion Multiplier)

Comments deleted.

Thanks! Did it work at all at 0.2?

I think it should, but i selected an old profile with -0,40 z offset so the first layer was to close = wheels stuck :(

I have no pictures but I just printed this and I am amazed at how all the joints work. These are super cool tiny toys. Very good on your effort to do this and share it. Thank you. Now I know my printer is worthy and I will mail this to my grandson so he can laugh at me and enjoy it and then lose it somewhere. i have the FolgerTech FT-5 printer. Original (year or so old) model.

Haha, thanks :)

Wonderful model. Printed well on my CR10 using S3D, except the cab is very lose. To the point that it can be removed out without obvious damage to the model.

Thanks! Yeah, I have just started using Simplify3D and I've had the same experience. Out of the box Simplify3D does a better job on the tolerance than my old slicer. I've just added a version v2 of the excavator with tighter cab joint. Let me know if you are able to test the new model. Best regards Stian

The cab on the new version works perfectly. Happy new year, and I looking forward to your next release!

Awesome! Thank you for testing it. Happy New Year!

How do you get the hinges to work? My truck printed nicely, then I just figured you had to turn the parts a bit to loosen it up but the cab broke off and the scoop broke off and if I bend anymore the arm will break too!

The cab broke off? It sounds like you must have really bad layer adhesion or something. And you struggle with the tolerance. It is hard to pinpoint the problem since it might be a lot of things. What printer? Are you usinge the settings I have am using on my model? Is this old filament? Do you have problems with the temperatures?

Well this is the first thing I’ve ever printed! We just got a davinci mini and I just printed this on default settings. I know not a lot about 3D printing as of right now. These files are great though thank you!

Ah, congrats on owning a 3d printer :)
Try printing this model on fine settings. 0,1mm layer height (100microns), 3 shells/walls and 40% infill. Make sure you dont print these using support structures or raft. You might have to experiment with different printing temperatures on the PLA

Some have printed very large versions of my eggs and they work. But since the tolerance between parts also scales they will become a bit more wobbly

I had to do a CTRL-F to be sure this had been said. Thank you.

Eggcellent wordplay indeed! :p

Am I the only one having a really hard time printing this excavator?! The front window of the driver cockpit keeps curling upwards and causing my nozzle to hit it and knock the piece off the bed. How are you guys preventing the steep overhand of the front cockpit window from curling up?

I have attached some pictures to show what I am referring to. I am using a Prusa MK2S

I have the exact same issue. Did you find a solution?

turn the model 180 or 90 degrees from where you are now and try again the MK2 cannot cool the backside of a shape very well.
turning the model has an effect on cooling and how the layers go down and can help.

Looking at you photos it also looks like you are overextruding. Try lowering the feedrate. Some of the curling might be because of the excess materials

Print Slower and at a lower temperature and with fan at 100%

Thank you for the suggestion shadycuz. I set it to 40% speed (using the LCD display on the printer) with fan at 100% and it still didn't help. I then added two desk fans pointing at the truck and turned off the heated bed and still the PLA was warping upwards more and more with each layer until the nozzle would hit it. Is there a specific speed you recommend?

Hi endrew, i have exactly same issue than you with original prusa mk2s, have you found a solution? i try with PLA & ABS without success. This curling is linked to model, it is normal?

In a last time : Thank to shadycuz for this good model.

No I haven't printed this yet, will try it tomorrow. I just know the curling is normally on parts that are overhangs and are getting to much heat dumped into it to quick. You printing in pla? Try a lower temperature like 194c and keep dialing back the speed until it passes that part.

Prints perfect. The rotating cab could be a little tighter but otherwise perfect. I love these things.

Excellent, spectacular, I'm already waiting for the next one.

Please make a Tiger TANK with a egg.

Please make a tiny grab next if you can? Like the Sennebogen 835 with claw attachment

Thank you. I love these. Reminds me of kinder eggs as a kid.

Yeah, Kinder Eggs was a big part of my childhood. Every Saturday I got one egg and it was the highlight of the week (this was in the 80s)

This one is great! Thank you for putting this one up! I'll be printing it soon and adding to my collection for my kids:)

Nice Work !

that is a great present for eastern :-)
can you create a thing for xmas ?

thx

Wow, awesome design! I can't keep up with your great work; we haven't printed Egg 2 yet!

Amazing work my friend.

Thank you. But trust me the Wold need a ping unicorn in a egg, as well!!

This is the best one yet! Printing now. Thank you for making and publishing these! Do you have any videos on how you make these models? Would love to see the process.

Thank you! I hope it prints well! Unfortunately I don't have any tutorials/progress videos. These model are usually modeled over several days or weeks with lot of trial and error