EDIT!! Updated !!! Currently working on adapters for folks without a lathe or means to thread the brace rods. Will require a you to drill 4 3mm through holes though. stuffs in the works. Thanks https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749760
These are my design of the braces I saw on here. The others are for a CR10, I have a CR10 Mini, so the height and deepth are different, thus changing the angle of the threaded rod braces. I made this to be universal, although there is more work involved in them, and most people wont have a lathe or means to make the adjustable rods. Also the other braces you loose 12mm or so on your z Height, these you Do not. My Mini had a 300 Z height, which I can get about 305 out of it ( this all varies with peoples limit switch bed height etc. But at worst I loose maybe 1mm. so I still have my manufacturers claimed 300mm either way. The Extruder will hit the bottom of the upper Z Rod guide just before these braces hit the roller wheels on the side. So you can leave everything stock.
You will need to mirror each bracket!! 1 for each side of the printer. The stl is for the upper and the lower. Print the way I have them shown in Cura, I did them with and without supports. the vertical holes will be fine, its the very hole on the bottom that gets stringy but It still worked. I was going to add a small cylinder in fusion and make a pre modeled support but didnot. if your using S3D you can just add a support for just that hole.
These use 4mm and 5mm pan head screws with 4mm and 5mm t nuts ( hammer nuts )
Its a mix of the 2 because I had a 3-5mm kit I bought of amazon, and wanted to spread their use out.
Things to notice
The brackets have an extra hole in them, that lines up with the 20x20 hole. if you so wish you can remove one of the bigger bolts holding the frame together temporarily and tap the hole 5mm. Giving you an extra mounting point. I didn't do this but added it anyways
There is clearance cut out where the extra hole is, because my printer had at most 1mm o over hang of the 20x20 to the 20x40mm. And to get by having to take it apart, mill off, or sand off, I added clearance to accommodate some factory imperfections.
There are also slight countersunk holes to allow room for the frame bolts. a few of mine stuck up past flush.
- Getting the one 5mm screws in the top and the very front are tricky, you have to remove one of the frame bolts and put a t nut in, and put bolt back. They wont rotate in between the 2 bolt heads = (
I used 1/4" spherical Rod ends with 1/2" aluminum rod. Drilled and Taped 1/4-28 Right hand thread on one end and left hand thread on the other so its adjustable. that way you can use a square and get your gantry perpendicular to it self.
Now I originally wanted to use 6mm hardware, but finding anything on amazon that I could get before Xmas, i switched to english. but! 6mm hardware will still fit! the hole is about 6.2mm anyways and I drilled it out to 1/4" and the width between where the rod end goes is .2mm wider. So you will just have a little more slop usng metric hardware, but if you tighten it, it wont matter. The only thing is the Nut hole will be a little more sloppy, but still fits.
my biggest worry when I was making these, was will a fang or fan fit. So i moved my setup to max Z and designed from there. See pictures.
Infill doesnt matter as much, but check your slicer settings. I believe I printed at a low number, But I also made my wall widths 2mm, or 5 walls at .4mm per layer. The way they are placed on the bed ( see slicer photo ) it walls give these bracers their strength. Just make sure your lines get bonded well.