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TataraTeam

TATARA A6 Steel Frame V1.1 - Codename: AWÁHSH - Anet A6 Swap it

by TataraTeam Dec 6, 2017
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what are the dimensions of the awahsh frame ?

any examples of igus ts-04 upgrade please ? :)

Sadly the stock PSU doesnt fit on the frame and i need to design an adaptor, still really awesome frame and its built like a tank :D
if i turn it 180 degrees it fits. But that doesnt help either since all connections are then on the top.
I got an 2016 Edition with the according PSU.

Comments deleted.

Finally a proper bed holder for the A6.
I'm gonna use that on my non steel A6 as the original holder is already bent.
Thanks!!

Please tell me where to get the files for 3D printing, standard fasteners on the a6. for shafts and so on.

Hi,

Can you provide source file for PP-RPL11?

I can't use strandard M3 nuts cause sockets prints too small (like most holes in FDM technology). Nut have 5.45mm, printed sockets ~5.2mm

what length of m3 screws do i need to assemble frame?

14mm
You have Bom with pdf with number and lengthy.

Please, for questions, refer to the Official Tatara page: https://www.facebook.com/tatarasteelframe/
or official Tatara Owner Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TataraFrameOwnerGroupOfficial/
You will get faster response than here.

little to late, unable to afford the new cut. i have to work with what i have, by christmas i'll have it going, maybe.

Please, for questions, refer to the Official Tatara page: https://www.facebook.com/tatarasteelframe/
or official Tatara Owner Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TataraFrameOwnerGroupOfficial/
You will get faster response than here.

My frame has just been cut out :]

Is there any recommended order to assembly this frame? Is it better to put together vertical elements first or starts from horizontal XY frame?
I need to inform about this the welder.

XZ frame with the 2 YZ frame then lock from bottom the XY frame.
The rest is very easy.
Do not full tight the screw at the beginning assemble all the frame then full tight.
Take a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221391 from part name

Tatara A8 Steel Frame - Anet A8 Swap it - V1.00

OK. My frame will be welded. I removed all holes and cutouts for M3 screws for cleaner look :]

if you can weld the frame properly is fantastic,
the problem is if you don't doit in the good way the heat can deform the frame.
You have to put some screw(that you can remove later on) to keep basic geometry and clamp tight on a strong welding table, you must folow a cross pattern woth weldin point and often check measurements

Moreover most pulling "cool down" points will pull in right direction the frame
but if some part is under a strong heat can deform.
TIG or MIG welding is recommended.

Can you confirm proper orientation of bottom XY plate? Please look into attached file.

Check the part 2 of Marcel LeMay video to have a idea how to assemble (even if Marcel one is the release candidate version but is very similar)

Hello,
i put it together as on the picture, this causes Y motor direction to be reversed - easy to fix if you're using custom firmware (Marlin FTW), but otherwise you have to flip back brace and bottom 180 degrees (mirror) to work properly.
On my photo, the Y sticker is left from original frame - as you can see, it's the wrong way around.

As writen on info:
Attention :
if you use anet board with anet stock FW the Y motor go to the left and nOT to the right like in the images, if you use marlin as FW you just need invert direction of Y motors in your FW

Heatbed support frame is also simetrical and can be flipped to keep motor on the left side?

Yes, that's correct - well, at least it works OK here :)

I have no FB profile (yes, people like me exists!) so I'll ask here :]

I don't understand how Y-belt tensioner works in your design. Adjustable (?) tensioner BYIT seems to be incomplete. Where are the other of parts of it? There is no screw or plate, only 3 holes.

There is also part BYFT which is non-adjustable belt fix tensioner. Right?

i found a shop here. they needing a nested cutting file so they can make the right pieces.

You can download all needed separate file for each part and the parts list PDF file to know how many of each part you have to cut. You can nest by hand or use nesting software. But normally laser cut service want do the nesting them self for specific form factor and add bridges if is needed for the machine they use.

@1NaN
You need 4 x M3 screw and nuts. 22mm length or grater.
And small printed part that you can download (inside .zip need printed parts)

Now it is clear :)

Can you tell us more about Z-end stop support? How to mamage this if someone doesn't use autoleveling?

@1NaN
You can download and print (or make out from plywood) the Tatara-Steel-A8-Z-end-stop-replica.zip and fix the micro switch with M2 Self-tapping screw.

the shop that can do it is very busy. i guess i have to find out what and how to nest these. they do have a plasma cutting table, looks like Marcel's from what i saw in their videos.

what the best nesting freeware? what do i need to use it?

Be sure they can do accurate cutting with good tolerance (+- 0.1mm).
You can find nesting software on the net, but to be able to nest before ask what size of steel sheet they can cut.

Trying to find out how to view the dwg files to figure out what they are first.

I'm using https://viewer.autodesk.com/ - it's free (but you have to register) and works on all OSes (I use Linux).

signed in with my fusion360 for viewer. checked list three times i think a have parts correctly. doe this sound about right.

PART# (number of pieces)

A6-TP11-82h7 top (2) one mirrored.
A6-XYF11 (1) bottom.
A6-XZF11 (1) main frame.
A6-YBP11-82h7 (1) back panal.
A6-YFP11-82h7 (1) front panal.
A6-YZ11-ANET (2).
A6-ZMS11 (2) one mirrored.
A6-ZMT11 (2) one mirrored.
A6-ZRB-82h7 (2).
BS357 bed plate (1).
BYIT (2) ybelt tightener.
RL11 (6).
YES (1) y end stop.
YM11 (1) y motor mount.

Look good, you don't need mirror parts, once you cut it you just need rotate 180° ;-)

ok. i wasn't sure if they cut a 'V" where it cuts a small hole on top and slightly bigger on the bottom , this is my first cnc cutting project.just hopefully the machine does a good enough job. slowly learning about machines like 3d printers.

i am asking around here or at least close to the oregon coast. next month i will get this if it doesn't cost more than $100 total.

In carbon steel fair price for single cut is under 90€ in EU

You can accually buy the upgrade kit of this here for those that cant wait for the file here. LOL...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/565664742/anet-a6-steel-frame-upgrade-kit-tatara

Sure you can, but shipping it overseas would probably double the cost and take ages :)

We believe in 2018 you can find easily a good quality and cheap steel laser cut service not to far away from you house, don't waste earth resources buying overseas if you can give some extra work to yours neighborhood.

That's exactly what i'm planning to do - found local shop with laser cutter, now i just need the file(s) :)

First variants of file are out today

I think they should offer free shipping like many other places do. If it were me I would since its in the US for sure. However, the cost of shipping overseas can get costly due to not only shipping rates but the costs in some areas of customs can get quite high. I'm not sure about your countries customs but look into them and see. I'm sure that in some cases the cost of shipping and customs it would cost more than what they are selling the product sales price is making them lose money to ship it overseas. So maybe waiting to see if they post the file in the near future and build the kit from scratch yourself. I know I don't have the equipment to do it here so buying it is my only option. However, with the cost of shipping and on a fixed income I probably won't be able to get one here when it's well over 100 dollars with shipping they want to charge.

I cut these for sale. You can't offer free shipping because they weigh 20lbs to ship. The cheapest to ship close by is around $25 my cost, and to ship across the USA, it is more like $55! In order to ship these for free, I would have to sell them at $130 each. Not fair to those that live close by. Anyone can come and get it at my place and pay the $79 and save shipping.

I have a question for you. What mail service are you using? I have most all the shipping apps and can calculate shipping with them. Look at the boxes in one of the files I have included and tell me which one the frame pieces will fit in to ship it.

It doesn't fit in any of those. I have to make a box that's 19x19x2". None of the flat rate boxes work. I checked them all. UPS, FEDEX, USPS. But you can check.

I like this file as I am getting an A6 (its in the mail). I was wondering if you could link me to the CAD drawing shown in the thumbnails. It would help if I plan to tweak the file.
Thank you,
John

Soon we will post the DXF file, we want be sure everything is correct before give to the community final version files.
We wait for final feedback of our tester.

Thank you very much. This looks like a great upgrade to the A6. I plan to weld it together after assembling it with screws, and squaring it up.

Looks awsome! I can't wait! :]

Is under testing, be patient ;-)

My A6 frame dying after 2 months. Today I found another 3 cracks :/ Thats why I'm looking forward ;)

Do you plan extended (higher than stock) version too?

We plan to design a 300mmx300mmx400mm cartesian frame to build up big printer from scratch because big volume cartesian printer we found in commerce give very poor quality result for very high price.
We hope releasing A6 file before christmas, Marcel May is testing at the moment our design:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkaiGqwv_vo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCyGtgIBLYY