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OmNomNomagon

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Wanhao i3 Complete Aluminium Extrusion & Prusa Mk3 Overhaul

by OmNomNomagon Dec 18, 2017
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Hi. Im makink one right now,. One question, how big is your printing area? I have heating bed like mk3 prusa 200x250mm.

Is there a rough estimate of how much filament the printed parts will require? It looks like a lot and I want to make sure I can get consistent coloring, so I'm wondering if I need to have 2 kgs on hand or if 1 will be enough?

I am working on mine and it used about 400-500g. I have plenty left over on the spool.

Hi - something I noticed on the Mk10 extruder carriage front is that the underside (just above where the heater block will sit) is not level with the upper surface. The thickness tapers from roughly 2.5 mm closest to the extruder motor to just about 1mm at the furthest point from the extruder motor. Is that intentional? It is making it a little difficult to print (the thin edge becomes fragile), but my TinkerCad skills aren't good enough to alter it. I tried importing it into Fusion360 but that won't let me alter the model. Thanks!

Do you have a pic of the issue mate?

I took some screenshots of the part I imported into Fusion360, so I could measure it. (I'd already thrown out the ones that didn't print correctly).

Is there an extruder carriage out there that can support a Flexion extruder? Or are we constrained to the stock extruder design or the Titan Aero?

Its just designed around the original MK10 and titan aero at the moment mate. An existing flexion carriage design for the Wanhao or Prusa should be able to be modified to fit. The main issues would be ensuring the nozzle position relative to the bed and that the y endstop hits properly.

我安装皮带是遇到了些问题
能否增加间隙0.2-0.4
我试了几种皮带 都遇到了无法塞入的问题
能否帮我修改一下。 或者提供STP 我自己修改一下

Following from Google Translate
I have encountered some problems installing the belt.
  Can you increase the gap by 0.2-0.4?
I tried several belts and I encountered problems that could not be inserted.
Can you help me to modify it? Or provide STP, I will modify it myself.

Hi Mate, is this still an issue for you?
This belt clearance is taken directly from the prusa MK3. Have your tried pushing it in with a flatheat screwdriver?
I can create one with slightly wider clearance if required.

我在安装皮带时 遇到了些问题
我手上的几种皮带 似乎无法塞入 我试着打了几个模型
但是结果都相同 能否 帮我修改一份 把皮带槽的间隙增加0.2-0.4
或者提供STP 我自己修改一下。。
我上传了图片

Hi @OmNomNomagon

How close is the X carriage to the current Prusa Mk3 design?
Is there any BMG carriage in the works?

If the carriage is similar to the Mk3 perhaps it is possible to just print the Prusa one.

Thanks

Hi mate, the y endstop is in a slightly different position. but the carriage itself is a fair bit different as the Wanhao Y rods much are shorter and i had to change a fair bit to get full coverage of the Y axis. The Prusa BMG one should work but will need to be modified. Best bet is to import it into the tinkercad project and see what needs to be changed.

I don't know much about the Wanhao i3. Does it use ripple count for end stops (current peak) or does it use regular end stop switches? What control board do you use?

It uses physical endstop switches.

I would like to print the printable parts. Do you think a complete thickness of 1 millimeter for the outer shell is enough?

Just finished my ReDuplicator build, thank you OmNomNomagon for all the great work you did. I have made several modifications to the project. I replaced the cable chains that came with the wanhao with 10x15 cable chains that have little doors on each link. Makes running cables much simpler. I also added a cable chain to the y carriage. Replaced the power supply with a 24v supply. I had to create an adapter bracket as most of the "led" power supplies use a 50x150 hole pattern which differs from what's used on the oem power supply.

Would you mind sharing the specific lengths of the cable chains and where you sourced them from?

I have added it as a remix with a full description and stl files.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3553142

Reduplicator with 10x15 drag chains
by e2p2

Would it be a good idea to print these parts in carbon fiber nylon or is PETG somehow more suited? I love the look and rigidity of CF printed parts.

I got my Reduplicator running with the Titan Aero but the fan shroud hangs too low to the print bed and scrapes off the prints. Has anyone made a fan shroud that doesn’t hang so low?

Edit: made a remix that lowers the nozzle by 3mm -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520540

ReDuplicator Titan Aero mount lowered
by carb143

HI Mate, how much lower was the shroud from the nozzle? Glad you got it sorted, sorry I didn't reply sooner, life has been hectic.

Hi there.

There seems to be a problem with the holes of the part "Tower_Corner_Bracket_Large". See the attached photo. It looks like something is blocking some of them. This is the case with V1 and V2 of the part.

Also, I modeled the flat bracket from Misumi and overlaid the "Tower_Corner_Bracket_Large" V2 part over it. The part almost looks too small for the bracket. Or was that intentional?

Those straight lines around the holes are intentional. it allows you to print them face down without supports. If you try to create a perfect circle on supports it will always come out wonky. But if you do it over a number of overlapping straight lines at different angles over a bunch of different layers you can get a much more accurate hole.

Also the Bracket size is intentional. Mainly because the black silver orange combo i used looks cool.

I see what you mean. So you print it face down to get the smooth surface facing outwards after installing it on the printer?

I ended up laser cutting the flat brackets as I can't source Misumi parts in South Africa. It turned out to be cheaper than buying standard ones from a shop.

Yes, exactly. If you have the laser cutter files feel free to upload them, they may help other people without access to the misumi parts too. Also watch the thickness of your plates as that will affect the legs. You may need to scale the leg parts till the bracket + legs height = 30mm

Hi there, got all my parts in and printing the ones ill need now. Curious, you said a future upgrade might include an E3DV6 mount? Im interested in what you would consider a fair price to make one? Feel free to pm me.

Hi Mate. I've got myself a e3dv6 clone and clone MK3 bondtech gears and will be putting together a hotend very similar to the one on the MK3. I'll be using measurements or models based on genuine parts so it should all work with genuine parts. I noticed the MK3s upgrade on the prusa website also includes the new filament sensor for 20$ so I'll try to put that in as well. It will be a while before i can tackle this unfortunately, work is sucking up all of my time at the moment.

Awesome job OmNomNomagon!

I'm curious about the rest of your setup.
What control board are you using?
Did you convert your printer to 24V? (I heard the TMC2130 drivers are quite noisy and lose steps when using them with 12V.)

In TinkerCad I see you've used two printed parts to extend two of the extrusions. Why is that?

Comments deleted.

I'm using a MKS Gen-L. Unfortunately it's not an open source design, I picked it mostly because it works well with 24v systems.
24v on the trinamics improves them a lot. At 12v they lose a lot of speed and torque.

Also great eye :) The two extensions are because the final design after I ordered my extrusions and needed an extra 10mm on the Y axis.

I'm still running the stock board but also want to upgrade. I'm currently considering the Duet WiFi or the Einsy Rambo (with the downside being the price).

You can't go wrong with either of those. Once you get used to the trinamic drivers it's hard to go back.

I’m a bit confused on the y belt holder v2 on how the belt is suppose to loop through it. Anyone have a image or could explain it to me? The way it’s setup I have it going through the top part but when I come back to the bottom the teeth seem like they are upside down on the part?

It should look similar to this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2727523.The teeth should be facing inwards.
The newest version is V3. It is based on the recent prusa updates and doesn't have those loops anymore.

Prusa i3 MK3 X carriage back plate with belt access
by jltx

Does anyone have a link to a new board in the us? I was thinking about upgrading to the einsy Rambo board from the actual mk3, would this be plug and play/ over kill? I want something plug and play to make it easier. I just ordered the parts from misumi. $120 shipped just an fyi

How did you end up with the board? I believe there a few chinese clones of the einsy available now.

Great design OmNomNomagon! Thank you for releasing this and being so helpful with the community. I've finished the build but I'm having difficulties with the software on my MKS 1.4 (w/ A4988). I have the 4 motors working but the Z motors make a terrible noise when moving and all motors will whine after any movement until all power is disconnected (including USB). I haven't configured Marlin before so I'm not sure what to try. Thank you.

Cheers mate, sounds like you may need to tune your stepper driver voltages, they may be too high.

I've played around with the voltages but I'm not sure what value to set them too. Currently they are: X = .682v, Y = .510v, Z = .658v, E = .918v.
Could you upload your Marlin firmware? I'd really appreciate it.

Hey mate, im running TMC2130 drivers which are very different from the usual A4988 and have a firmware set vref rather than manually setting them on the board. The ReDuplicator github project has a sample config of my older TMC2130 marlin config. This page https://3dprinterwiki.info/setting-the-stepper-current-on-the-melzi-board/ for the original wanhao melzi board gives details on what your vrefs should be for A4988 depending on your motors

anyone thought of using longer extrusions to upgrade build volume?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

It shouldnt be an issue, just make sure you increase the size of the rods by the same margins. I also recommend popping into the tinkercad project and lengthening each axis to simulate what you are looking for, just to be sure.

Almost done with mine still, did post a picture!

I'm having trouble with the X-axis rods though. When you say "This corresponds to 287mm between the X Gantry Idler 9MM and X Gantry Motor Mount between their closest points." this from the edge where the leadscrew nuts are mounted, and not the edge where it touches the rod right? Can be a bit confusing there.

Tightening the screws on the heatsert nuts just pushes the nuts out. Maybe because I'm using the smaller cheaper nuts rather than the ones you used. Reprinting the idler and the motor mount to try again, but will probably drill the hole bigger for the 5x5 heat sert nuts I have.

Great design! I am almost done with the build. I have a quick question, how similar are these parts to the Prusa I3? I would like to put a Bondtech extruder on my machine, so I was wondering if I could use a Bondtech and the Mk3 extruder model.

The carriage ends are very similar to the stock prusa MK3. However I'm not sure if the x-endstop would activate in the correct spot, the printer head would be offset from the heatbed and possibly affect your total x axis print volume. Your best bet would be to import the prusa STL models into the tinkercad project and see what sort of clearance you get.

The MK3 has a much longer x-axis which gives it a lot of breathing room, while the wanhao has smaller rods and was trickier to get everything to fit. At some point i will make a redesigned MK3 extruder to fit, but it will be a while till i can find the time.

Very nice build! How did you buy things from misumi since they do not sell to individuals for personal use? Just made up a company name?

Im in Australia, and had previously registered an ABN as a sole trader. Supplying Misumi with those details was enough for them to setup an account.

X carriage compatible with a prusa mk2 original?

As in you would like to use this frame with a prua mk2 hotend?

Yes i want use the extruder body & hotend.

The rod spacing is identical so it will fit. I'm not sure if the endstop will hit correctly, you may need to check that. Also the dimensions of the new hotend may affect your usable printing space.

Will this parts fit on 4040 alu :)

Its designed around 3030 only. You would need to mod each part and redo all the dimensions to get 4040 working.

Do you think that other brand heat-serts would work? The ones you listed aren't available in the US, but there's some other ones with slightly different lengths and widths available on amazon. I haven't found anything else that's exactly the same size.

Hi, where could I buy a Wanhao kit (only parts needed)?

Just did the first test print on my almost finished printer. Just have to figure out how to get the print cooling fan on the Titan Aero mount without it bumping into stuff. Also had to scale up the bltouch mount a bit to make sure that doesn't bump into anything.

Im currently testing a new Prusa Mk3 R3 based fan shroud which should fix that issue. I'll have it up in a day or so :)

Sorry to bother you, but how's that new fan shroud? I've been doing ABS, but the warping and the smell have really been getting to me.

PLA and PETG are the best.

New cooling parts based on the MK3 R3 files have been added mate. Please give them a go and let me know if you have any issues.

So far so good! yay for being able to print PLA again.

Cool! I've got my printer pretty much done, and it prints a good xyz cube now. Just gotta calibrate the probe height a bit more to get rid of the elephant foot. Doing ABS since I don't have the fan installed at all.

Also have to do wire management, which will never happen, but I'll take some pictures and post a Make here soon.

Comments deleted.

Would a 220mm bed fit within this frame without modifications. I'm going to build from scratch

Yep it should work without issue, my original bed got warped and i replaced it with a 220x220 one with the same mounting holes.

what bed did you use for this? mine appears to be warped so i would like to replace it with one that has the inset screw holes if possible

Hi, I was wondering if any one knows how to properly align the Z smooth rods, perfectly squared to the X gantry and parallel to the Z cross bars? Thanks!

A right angle square with a spirit level is your best bet to make sure everything is 100% aligned.

So I just got to the point where I add the top piece of the frame to the top of the z tower. One side is square, but the other is off. Sigh. Not sure I have it in me to rip this thing down to re-square it right now, but I know if I put it away it'll never get done. I don't understand how everything isn't lining up because it WAS square. Argh.

HELLO AS YOU ARE ?, I AM SEEING THE MACHINE IS VERY GOOD, YOU SEE SOLID IN STRUCTURE. CONSULTATION WHICH BED YOU USED ?, AND THE FRAME OF THE BED IN "Y".
REGARDS

The Bed is the stock wanhao one. It is a standard MK3 heatbed that can be purchased on any 3d parts store. The y carriage has standard wanhao spacing but it is an aftermarket one from tehnologika.net as the stock one is very prone to warping.

is anyone else having a hell of a time installing the belts on the x bearing plate? it seems like the GT2 I have is just a little too large...

Nope, tighter tolerance belts don't help.

I think the x bearing plate might just have teeth / belt channels that are too small, by design.

No way of getting it flush, the belt won't go in.

Anybody got advice on this one? A different brand or type of belt? It's looking like I'll have to edit this manually, as it stands.

It can be a little tricky to get the belt in. I found the middle sized allen key was really good for pushing the belt in. Also check your printing dimensions? The stock Wanhao belt should fit without issue and I've also tried a higher quality Gates GT2 belt.

Heya, Nom.

Thanks for the response.

-It can be a little tricky to get the belt in. I found the middle sized allen key was really good for pushing the belt in.

Hm... I've tried alot of tools to push it in; allen keys, small sized punches (with and without strikes from a small bronze/plastic headed hammer), etc.

Nothing seems to be the belt more than half way; having tried some gates and cheaper chinese belts, the result is the same; on the 'outer side' of the belt clamp, the 6mm GT2 only ever goes in half-way.

-Also check your printing dimensions?

Not sure what is meant by this: layer height? No manual modifications to part dimensions or scaling were made, and of the two prints I've tried, the first was PETG (so, not much of a shrinker).

After dealing with that, I thought my printer just wasn't going to have the required accuracy to get the teeth right, so I got an SLS nylon print from shapeways for just the bearing plate, but it has the same problem. The hardware fits on every other part of the print; it's just the belt teeth that have this problem.

Should I scale this part up a bit before printing it, or is there simply a trick to getting this belt in place I'm not recognizing?

edit:
I've tried pushing in from the 'inner' side of the clamp, and from the 'outer' side. The 'inner' (non toothed) side accepts the belt readily enough, but on the 'outer' side, it seems either too narrow, the teeth are spaced too close, or both. Doesn't matter where I 'start' the push from.

edit 2:

Photos of a best-effort attempt to push the belt in:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12jgVoDx6PhDEUCrv2knI3B1Oa1BrrzwK/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hbZrFb_190DGQkeIDDy65qdnrS-7rcGt/view?usp=sharing

Very odd. Let me take a closer look at the STL. This part of the design is lifted directly from the MK3 stl's so I'm not sure why it isnt working in your case, especially if you got an external print done. Im currently using a redesigned plate which doesnt have this issue. I'll confirm and then upload it for you to try.

Did you get a look at that modified plate? I'd definitely like to give it a shot.

Hi mate, I've uploaded a new strengthened x carriage plate version. Please give it a go. I've also compared all of my current and older files to the original Prusa carriage file and the belt sections are dimensionally identical to each other. I have no idea why you are having issues but no one else seems to be experiencing it. Are you using the stock Wanhao GT2 belt or a different one?

Hello, again.

-Hi mate, I've uploaded a new strengthened x carriage plate version. Please give it a go.

Thank you, will do!

  • I have no idea why you are having issues but no one else seems to be experiencing it. Are you using the stock Wanhao GT2 belt or a different one?

I've tried a few different belts, neither of which were stock.

The one I was formerly using is this: https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B01E91K4N8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Worked pretty well with this extruder mount, but since this one relied on zip ties (much like the original carriage), it's not really a 1:1 comparison: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694

The other belt I tried (just to see if that belt was out of tolerance or something) was a 6mm gates belt from this site: http://sdp-si.com/products/timing-belts/gt2.php

I'll let you know how the new carriage parts work out.

Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1 E3D Titan Aero Upgrade

Great news, thanks for the followup!

One thing I was not specific enough about, reading back on my reply, is that this is the x-bearing plate for the titan aero extruder.

I've attached the exact STL I've been printing, which I got from your github (under the master branch, titan aero conversion folder).

I had the same problem printing in PETG with a layer height of .25. I lowered the layer height to .15 and used Gates belts form Trianglelab on aliexpress and the belt now inserts into the part properly.. The belts have more reinforcement than other belts available and for me seemed a bit thinner.

Link to belts: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/GATES-LL-2GT-3D-printer-gear-synchronous-belt-GT2-Width-6MM-9MM-High-quality-wear-resistant/1654223_32853559638.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.5.fece41a5ZPJVmW

So my newest problem (Not with the build, user error on my part I'm guessing) is getting some holes to line up on the MK10 extruder/hot end. Everything goes together perfectly right up until I try to attach the heatsink/spacer/fan combo to the rest extruder/stepper. The holes on the X carriage front extruder plate line up just fine with the holes on my stepper, but when I try to run a screw through the hotend heatbreak, through the front extruder plate and into the stepper, it's not lining up.

Any ideas why? I don't really even see this in the directions, but it looks fully assembled in the pictures so

rotate it 180

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Nah it's oriented correctly. The dimensions are just off VERY slightly. I printed a new piece and was able to get it to line up properly and put that piece in first. Should be able to put everything else in around it.

oh ok. I was able to get mine to work with a modified test print for my plus

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Are you using the same bolt pattern as this carriage?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2023947

Bowden X-Carriage Mount for E3D V6

So if anyone else is considering converting a duplicator I3 Plus, don't bother. You're honestly better off just starting from scratch. I'm not finished yet, but just ran into a snag with the smooth rods. I guess the lengths on the plus are different -- I've got a set of 320, a set of 380 and a set of 330 something (332 maybe? I can't remember and don't feel like getting up to measure them) so I'm short a set of 320 rods. I'm hoping I can at LEAST use the threaded rods on the z steppers and heated bed, but time will tell.

Kind of frustrated I just cannibalized a working printed for a few stepper motors and a heated bed. :(

Have you figured out the breakout board mount on the X-Carriage? I'm looking at doing this with my Plus and that's the only snag I'm seeing.

I still need to do some research, but I don't think I need one. I'm using an official Prusa EINSY board instead of the shitty stock one

oh ok. I had debated doing an electronics swap, but I have figured out how to port ADVi3++ to my i3Mark2, so it's printing pretty well now. I just want to add some height to my print volume, around 250mm would be good for me. I can figure out the electronic mounting by using extrusion mounting to keep the "all-in-one" feel of the printer. I'm wondering if he is using the same X-carriage bolt pattern as this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2023947 . If so then there are .step files for that and I can easily modify my own bearing plate that will accommodate the breakout board. Or i could modify his on tinkercad, which isn't as clean :(, but i did modify his to mount a 12mm inductive probe.

PS: Also I can just purchase another breakout board to use on the Mainboard side if I want to upgrade the electronics later.

Bowden X-Carriage Mount for E3D V6

Ah gotcha. Yeah I had an extra EINSY board cuz when I bought my Prusa MK3, the PCB trace for the sensor wire of the hot end fan was broken so it would just run whenever the machine was on instead of when it was at at 51C or higher. They just opted to send me a brand new one. I might try to fix the trace, but even if I can't having it run whenever the machine is on isnt a big deal at all.

You can definitely still use those 332mm rods instead of 320mm ones for the Z axis. They will just poke out 10mm from the top of the Z rod holders. There is also a chance that the clearance will work with the X axis too.

I already ordered some 320 rods from Misumi. I imagine they'll be of a better quality anyway so no worries.

No worries, you can't go wrong with misumi rods, they are really good quality.

I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement idler pulley. I stupidly bought some from Openbuilds because I saw "11mm", but didn't read on so it's way too big. I've looked around Amazon and none of them list the dimensions. The pulley I'm looking for is 9mm tall, yes? I found these:

https://www.3dp2go.com/6mm-wide-timing-belt-idler-pulley-5mm-bore-p-553.html

It lists everything but the height, but it's for a 6mm timing belt (Up to 7.5). Is this what I'm looking for? If not and you know of somewhere I can get the right part I'd REALLY appreciate it.

Also, I will be converting an I3 Plus. I've already made a replacement electronics box and it'll house an official Prusa EINSY board and a Raspberry Pi 3. At least that's the plan so far.

Hi mate, the height should be the same as stock, we are looking for a thinner width idler pulley. Most sellers dont list it but I've bought them from half a dozen sellers and they are all 9mm wide compared to the 11 wide ones wanhao uses ones. e.g.

would you mind sharing the electronics box for the i3 plus? i want to do this conversion but since all the electronics are underneath ive been putting it off

I just used this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1264391

You can use the scad file to customize the placement of the PCB feet for whatever board you're using. You can also customize the holes in the front plate to whatever LCD you're using. You just need a calipher to measure the size of your screen for the front plate and the distance between the screw holes on your board.

If that's outside the realm of your ability I can give you a copy of what I'm using, but it's only going to work for the LCD screen I'm using and a genuine EINSY board from Prusa. I'm not sure which firmware I'm going to use just yet -- I'd like to use the Prusa firmware but I suspect it's going to require a lot of modification.

The Ultimate box maker

So I have spent months getting this thing right and I think I am pretty much there. My latest issue is with the fan shroud. (I upgraded to the titan aero). As you can see from the attached picture, the back end is dragging along the bed. The shroud is flat when placed on level surface so I know it is not warped. I have tightened up the 2 screws holding it in place.

Any ideas?

The Angle of the shroud is dictated by the angle of the heat serts. If you use your soldering iron and reseat them to angle a little more upwards (looking from to back) it should flatten out the shroud.

Im also working on an alternate shroud with a smaller profile and better performance. However I'm overseas at the moment so it may be a few weeks before i can get it uploaded.

Comments deleted.

So it's taken me some time to get round to this but I've finally got the majority of the required parts to make a scratch build! I've moved onto the printed parts, btw the tabbed corners came out fantastic! However, the corner steel brackets I got weren't misumi, whilst they are the same length (85mm) the hole spacing is slightly off, is there anyway of modifying the corner files and leg files so as to move the holes by a few mm?

Glad its all coming together for you mate. I'm pretty slammed with a few projects at the moment and It would take me a few weeks to get around to it, but it is a pretty simple to edit the original spacings via tinkercad. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/azPlfmHU5MQ.

can all of them use the igus rjzm-01-08 bearings in x y and z and what file for the mk10 hotend

You can run those igus bearings in x and y no worries. I had massive issues trying to use them in the z axis of the original wanhao i3, so im not sure if its worth trying here. The Z axis doesnt get much use anyway so the igus bearings don't make much sense there anyways. If you follow the links to the full instructions it will tell you which parts you need to print for the mk10 extruder.

ok because i have them on y and z but not x and they are 1mm bigger then the all plastic one in the pic want to make sure before i buy stuff and see what i use right now on my printer before i start to do the upgrade in the coming weeks

Oh right sorry, didnt realize you were refering to the metal casing 16mm ones. those will not fit. The bearing holes are all designed around the standard 15mm. You could probably use them on the y axis using your current bearing blocks though.

is there a easy way for me to mod the file or would it better if you do it i do know how to use fusion360

The wiki has links to the tinkercad project, which is super easy to edit. I dont think its a good idea to edit the x axis carriage. This is already as small as possible, so shaving off a mm here and there will make to easy to break. I'd just use the 16mm bearings on Y and then buy good quality misumi bearings when purchasing the other parts for the x and z axis.

so use them for the bed only and get bearings want to get some thing like the ones i have will this work for x and z LM8LUU from misumi https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000091678/?PNSearch=LM8LUU&HissuCode=LM8LUU&searchFlow=suggest2products&Keyword=LM8LUU

As Per the instructions and BOM use misumi part# LMU8 for the Z axis and LMUW8 for the X axis

Anyone else running into an issue with your 3D slicer not interpreting X&Y bed size correctly after this build? I'm using Cura and it always seems like the model is actually printing 10-20MM closer to the front of the bed than where it's place in Cura. I double checked my measurements for my X gantry to make sure that it was far enough away from the front as described and manually I know that my nozzle is capable of touching any part of the bed in either the X or Y direction. Starting to wonder if it's a software issue in either the settings I have in Marlin or within Cura itself. Just curious if anyone else that has completed the build has run into something similar.

If you home X and Y check where the nozzle is positioned. If its sitting over the corner of the heatbed its probably a software issue. If it is offset you may need to tweak the position of your Z tower for the Y axis or change the location of the X endstop for the X axis.

Almost done with mine, but I notice the Z-axis tower is a bit loose and can tilt toward the Z-axis side since there's no bracket there. This happen to you guys are am I doing it wrong?

Hi mate, a few people have had this issue due to the gaps in some styles of t-nuts. if you look at the T-nut section in the BOM. There is a recommended fix there. If everything is properly tightened there should be zero movement on the machine.

Oh I see. Where did you get your T-nuts? Misumi?

I got cheap ebays from a couple of sources. One had a neck and had issues. Others were mostly flat and were okay. The issue occurs on the little corner bracket. It has a little tab directly under the hole which adds too much space for the T-nut to clamp directly. It is still recommended that we use this design of corner bracket though as this tab provides the best strength when attaching the tower crossbeam to the base. The method of using fibre washes as spacers fixes this really well.

Yeah looking at my build now, I see what you mean with the tab. Is it seems to be just one of the tabs on each bracket?

I'm looking at Misumi's datasheet, and they list the HNTT6-5, I might just get those. The difference between the neck is 0.8mm for reference. Measuring mine, I get a whole 1.5+mm

There also seems to be a HBLFSN6-5 for M5 screws since the one in the BOM uses M6 screws. Probably won't make much of a difference, and the M5 version doesn't seem to come in black anodize.

No ebay links? I'm willing to buy off ebay

Yeah, it only applies to one of the tabs per bracket so 14 in total.

You should be golden with those misumi HNTT6-5 T-nuts. I'll update the BOM with this info.
HBLFSN6-5 would be a a better fit due to the M5 bore but i skipped over it due to the lack of black anodizing and im not sure it makes any difference when everything is tensioned.

There are also a few single tabbed brackets on misumi which would work with the longer t-nuts like HBLFSNK6, but may be less rigid.

I've actually replaced the brackets I could with the cheaper chinese 3030 corner brackets, since they didn't require the reversed tabbing. So I only have 8 of the HBLFSNB6 brackets. The rest seem to be fine with the cheaper corner brackets. The bottom ones holding up the z-axis I couldn't replace because the space is too tight for the bigger brackets, but other than that I think it should be good.

I had them leftover from building a Hypercube Evolution.

In progress of making this. Have all the hardware now. I wonder if its worth looking at linear rails.

Good luck with the build mate. The original plan was to get close to a prusa MK3 with the stock parts and I am really happy with the results. Linear rails are definitely something I will be looking at as a possible mod in the future. It will depend on being able to source some reasonably priced rails which provide some improvement to the current rods

Very good work! What firmware should I use?

If you are on the stock board, you should be fine to stick to repetier. however I also changed my control board and moved to marlin to take advantage of some never features.

Thanks for the answer! This size for the table 200х200?

Trying my best to do this from scratch... how does this look for a BOM so far?

I noticed the MKS Gen L you chose doesn't have any stepper drivers, looks good otherwise.

I would recommend against getting the Titan Aero from Amazon. I have ordered parts for mine from them, same vendor and they are substandard. Not the same as original. I would recommend www.filastruder.com first and www.matterhackers.com as a second choice. The prices aren't very different and you can get the E3D pancake stepper for the extruder from Filastruder.

I personally got mine from MatterHackers which took longer as I am closer to Atlanta, where Filastruder is located. I have gotten parts for E3D hotends from Filastruder and they are all good.

Great tip about amazon. Thank you. Actually stumbled across the flexion and thinking about going for gold with this model...
https://flexionextruder.com/shop/dual/

Drivers such as these?
https://www.filastruder.com/products/silentstepstick-tmc2130-stepper-motor-driver

Thank you much!

Yep. Those drivers are really good too.

I run the TMC2130's on a MKS Gen-L. This may help if you go in that direction. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2895849

Wanhao i3: MKS Gen-L, Rasp Pi, Mosfet, TMC2130 Combo Adaptor and 120mm Cooling Mod

I'm almost done with one from scratch. Have you decided on 24V or 12V? What's your plan with the LCD since you don't have a box like the standard maker select? Either make something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364807 or mount it like the MK2-X?

I like LM8LUUs more than LM8UU for stuff like the X and Y axis.

Sayha - Wanhao i3 RAMPS Case

I have not. Didnt even know that was a variable... yet another thing to consider. Got in way over my head, total noob here.

I was going to find a generic off the shelf box to house it but will use your link. This is great! Thank you so much!!.

I did a scratch build of this and I used a Duet Wifi, my brother in law had one he wasn't using and I snatched it up. I went with 24v, the bed and the hotend heat up so much faster and the NEED for a mosfet isn't as dire. I still use one because I'm paranoid.

You can see my make here. I posted links to the stuff I used. There are a lot of electronics boxes/housings that can be used to mount to the printer as well.

I had to look up what a duet wifi was... now that looks like an alternative option to the MKS-Gen L, is that right?
But it says stepper drivers (2660 vs 2130, does that mean better?) are included in the duet wifi and I dont need to purchase them separately?

Yes they are built into the Duet. The MKS Gen boards of all types have varying configurations. The one you posted allows for removable stepper drivers. Some configurations have them integrated into the board. IMO the removable version is better should any of them fail you can easily replace it.

As for the Duet drivers, I'm not 100% sure on this but I think they are proprietary to the Duet and you cannot get them anywhere else. They are just about the best available.

Now the 2130's are very very good from all accounts. When I was looking for a control board for my build, I nearly bought your same configuration but I got the Duet free from my bro-in-law.

I think only the duet used the TMC2660 at the moment because they need to be PCB mounted due to the heat they generate. The TMC2130's are not as powerful and dont heat up as much so they can be mounted on the small step stick sized PCBs

Actually you can get tmc2660 from bigfoot(BSD2660) that are not soldered into the pcb, although they will only work with the azteeg x5

Oh yeah, forgot all about those weird bigfoot boards :)

The Duet Wifi can easily handle the 15A 24V I'm throwing through it on my other printer's 300x300 bed. I have zero worries about it running 200x200 bed.

I'm planning on doing a regular RAMPS on mine, but am designing my own mount since I'll need a 5V PSU (24V will kill the RAMPS), so I'm gonna go full seperate 5V power supply with a relay to the main 24V power supply, and a Raspberry Pi to control it all.

I'll be sure to post my own Make when it's done (Orange and Black just like a legit Prusa i3.)

Wait... so are you suggesting I am able to purchase longer extrusion and make my build area any size I choose? Say, 650mm by 650mm. Haven't got that far yet but how will the printer know what I want it to do? Is that the firmware part?

I cannot thank yall enough for you guidance, truly appreciated!!

Ill be sure to post any builds as well. Needing about a dozen of them for business purposes so once this is dialed in I'm hitting the ground running.

Not 650x650, no bed slinger should be that big. You'll run into issues running it on a 8mm rod at that point. You still need a y-carriage, so if you wanted bigger, I'd go with 200x300: https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extended-300x200mm-Aluminum/dp/B07B239RF1/ With this one, it'd just be y-axis extension.

And yeah, your firmware lets you define the size of the printer, as does your slicer.

Comments deleted.

I have most of the parts printed... building from scratch so I have no base to start with. Where does one obtain things like the extruder, wiring, and bed?

Thanks in advance!

Here are a few bits and pieces to get you started.

extruder (or a cheap mk10)

Heatbed

Cables

Steppers

Control Board

You may be able to find a bundle kit which includes control board, cables, thermisters, LCD, heatbed and endstops

Where do you install the Z-Max end stop for use with the BL Touch?

I'm using a BLTouch on my build and I do not use a Z-Max endstop. I am not using the original electronics tho.

I also use a BLtouch without a Z-max endstop. You could probably repurpose the z-endstop part if you really want to use one however.

Any idea where the X endstop is meant to go? It's the last step I need to do before completion. Couldn't see a mention of it in the guide, and can't see anywhere on the extruder where it's meant to go.

It looks like the old version has it on https://github.com/OmNomNomagon/ReDuplicator-MK3x/blob/master/STLs%20Reduplicator%20Core%20Parts/Retired%20Versions/X%20Gantry%20Motor%20Mount%20(old).stl You can see the holes that can be used to mount the endstops. Looks like they were removed?

I'll probably see if I can just drill to re-add those holes myself. Don't feel like reprinting the part.

Oh it looks like it was actually moved to the X-axis idler. Not sure that works with the reversed carriage setup

Hi guys, the x-endstop goes on the x-idler part. When building in the reversed config, you can either reverse the motor direction via firmware or put the motor on the other side of the x-axis motor mount.

I find the reversed configuration doesnt' really work with the endstop on the idler end because the fan (on the Titan Aero mount at least) will hit the end first before it can trigger the endstop.

Could you post a picture please? Are you talking about the extruder fan or the part cooling fan? The extruder should always move to the left during homing. It sounds like your x axis is moving in the opposite direction? You may need to reverse motor direction via fiormware or rotate the cable into the motor.

The extruder should always move to the left during homing. It sounds like your x axis is moving in the opposite direction?

I'm using the reversed configuration, where the x motor is on the left and the x-idler is on the right. With the updated parts, the endstop is on the idler right? So I have to home to the right?

In the reversed config, the extruder still homes to the left otherwise you will be printing mirror images. The X endstop should be on the motor mount in this case.

Actually looks like the M2 mounting holes on the motor mount have disappeared after my recent update. I'll make a new revision and add them back in. In the meantime you should be able to manually mount the endstop to the motor mount. Drill a couple of 1.5mm x 6mm holes in position and screw the endstop in. Sorry mate, that one must have slipped through.

You can home to the right as long as your firmware is setup to home to max technically. Still, you've removed the endstop mounting holes on the motor mount.

Yep, my mistake. re-adding it now :)

EDIT: uploaded an updated motor mount with the endstop holes added. X Gantry Motor Mount MK3 V3.stl

I ended up drilling two holes on the motor mount, worked perfectly.

Comments deleted.

Yep, sorry mate, I glanced over that in the guide. It gets screwed onto the bottom of the X-axis idler. You will need to pull the wiring back out of the top cable chain. I'll update the instructions to include this.

Thanks! Found it in the end, snapped the cable chain in the process, so now I'll be printing a new one XD. Great design BTW. I just need to redo the frame as I'm having the issue where the T-Nuts are that odd size you mentioned where they don't press against the extrusions enough.

So I'm a bit confused about ordering the corner brackets from misimu, HBLFSNB6 appears in the specifications as tabbed on both sides and I can't seem to change this. Is this just a typo or do I need to change something in the configuration?

Hi Mate, yes those the correct ones. The tab on one of those sides is spaced at 8mm so it can lock into an extrusion running perpendicular to it. You just need to keep an eye out when installing them as they may create too big a space between the bracket and Tnut to lock in properly. A fix is outlined in the instructions.

All of the Aliexpress ones etc, have the tabs spaced out wider so they wont lock in when trying to connect two perpendicular extrusions.

Awesome thanks man, ordering the parts tonight

I'm amazed at the quality of this project, especially the documentation on github. I'm planning on overhauling my wanhao with a MKS Gen L board with TMC2130 stepper drivers and touch screen as well as printing this in the reverse configuration to mount the board and PSU on the back- the way that Prusa does to do away with the cumbersome control box.

I've got a question- How much do you think that the titan aero impacted the print quality compared to the improved frame? I'd rather not shell out the extra cash for a titan, especially seeing as I've already invested in the micro swiss all metal hotend and I'd have to ditch the whole thing for the E3D ecosystem.

You put a ton of effort into this project, especially "assembling" the printer in tinkercad and even distinguishing the new parts from the wanhao parts. I'll definitely throw a couple bucks your way. Be proud of this thing man, it's awesome.

  • I'd also like to throw it out there that most of the hardware can be found at https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com, for ~$15 with fast shipping for those building this in the US.

Do you have mounting "things" already in mind for the PSU and control box? I've already built this in the default configuration, but planning to swap the x-axis around so I mount the guts, that or try to mount them underneath.

@Kalmyre just posted a new make with this exact configuration, it looks amazing. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:497725. He's running a duet but we can use that as a starting point.

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Wanhao i3 Complete Aluminium Extrusion & Prusa Mk3 Overhaul
by Kalmyre

Thanks mate, appreciated :) Almost all of the improvement is due to the rigid frame. The titan is not an integral part to the project, just an additional option. It is mostly for printing above 100mm/s or for easier use with flexibles. I had a month period on the MK10 before the Titan and there is not much difference in quality between those prints.

Thanks for the hardware info, its been a pain helping people find local sources for parts.
I've been running a MKS Gen-L TMC2130 combo in the original control box for a month and its been great so far. this might help you get started.

Wanhao i3: MKS Gen-L, Rasp Pi, Mosfet, TMC2130 Combo Adaptor and 120mm Cooling Mod

I'm happy to hear that about the extruder. I've ordered by MKS Gen L and drivers and once I get that up and running I'll start this rebuild. Thanks for the link, that should help with measurements when I model my Prusa-style board mount.

This project is amazing, I am planning on doing this over the summer before my final year of undergrad; I have a mostly stock Maker Select V2, so would the estimated cost of materials (including the new boards, etc) also factor in the Titan Aero? (so be around $100-$200 US)

Also, do you have any plans to incorporate compatibility with the Prusa Multi Material Upgrade 2.0 upgrade kit?

Hi Mate, I'd recommend running the stock board (provided you've done the mosfet mod) and staying with the MK10 initially while you get it up and running. This is what is outlined in the original BOM. Everything on top of that is an additional extra if it interests you.

I havn't given the MMU much thought but can definitely whip up a bracket to mount it on the 3030 frame if there is interest in it. The biggest issues would be software and getting it to work with a non einsy rambo prusa firmware based board.

Brilliant we're in business then. From the few video previews i've seen it seems to be controlled by a separate arduino control board that hooks back into the main controller?

Hey OmNomNomagon,

Finally finished putting together the build. Spent the time printing the parts, and locating the BOM. I did have issues however with assembly. And I would like to share just in case it might lead to a better product. But, I must say, that I am glad I found your product, this is great work and my comments should in no way reflect the quality of the build. I am only trying to help ensure the best product available.

Both Z-rod top brackets - Printed in PLA. Broke trying to force the smooth rods into them. I have found that all the holes for rods are just a tad too small. So much so that I took a drill to them to widen them out just a bit which helped, but not before breaking the plastic. The first thing I am printing now that I am up and running again is replacement parts for the pieces I broke.

X-Gantry Idler 11mm - Printed in PLA. I used the same idler as before and had to use my drill to open up the cavity for the idler as it would not fit at all. I used the 11mm stl, I double checked before writing this down. So this cavity along with the tight cavities for the smooth rods made this piece a tight fit. I ended up breaking it but fixed it enough to use for now so I can print a replacement.

Z-rod securer - Printed in PLA. Unable to use both screw holes as the rod bends the plastic so much that it cant reach without forcing the piece to break trying to get it in.

I am also using the stock extruder as the plastic around the bearings (both slots) broke. The screws holes to secure the bearings broke off and made the entire piece unusable. I will be printing another replacement as well. I printed the new extruder in ABS.

Overall, it was a good build. Took me a couple hours to disassemble and reassemble the parts. I will post pictures once I reprint and fixed the broken pieces, as well as add the cable management.

Hi mate, happy to get some feedback. Glad you were able to get it into a working state despite the issues.

It looks like a number of these issues might be due to the use of PLA? As far as i can tell you are the first person to attempt the build with it. It is more rigid but much more prone to snapping than the ABS+ I used in my build. Also what type of PLA are you using and at what temperatures. Some of those parts are very beefy and are not prone to snapping unless using significant force?

Going through each of your points:

Z-rod top brackets: I definitely don't recommend drilling prints, especially PLA, and definitely not with an 8mm drill bit. It is very easy for the drill bit to catch and snap the part. next time an exactoblade and some high grit sandpaper is a much better choice. These should rotate onto the rods relatively easy, especially before adding the heatserts and tightening that gap. I believe the opening should be 8.15mm. Have you tried a calibration cube on your printer to confirm its dimensional accuracy? Depending on how well calibrated the machine is, printing horizontal circle holes will print tighter holes than when printing them vertically. You could try reprinting the parts with the top face on the bed with supports. If you have calipers handy could you also please share the dimensions you are seeing on your reprinted parts.

X-Gantry Idler 11mm: I never printed this off to test, but thanks for your feedback, I will widen the opening for this part and upload. hoy much extra space do you believe you need here?

Z-rod securer: This makes sense, ABS elongates much easier so it can bend a lot more before before breaking. If you have any left over ABS they should work fine, but i will also redesign the part for easier use with PLA.

Extruder Plate. Similar to above, however I definitely recommend printing this part in ABS or PETG due to the proximity to the hotend. I will look into creating a beefier plate specifically for PLA. It will be a bit heavier though. Did it only break at the screw holes or did it also snap at the thinner areas around the bearings?

thanks for this info, please let me know how you go. I'll work on those issues highlighted.

Hey your BOM on both here and Github lists:

M3 4-8mm Button Head Screw M5

Do you mean M5 rather than M3?

Those are M3 sorry mate. A few issues snuck in while i moved to a tabulated parts list

Thanks for the quick reply! Another question though: You link an "inject molding type" brass insert. Should I get the M3x5 or the M3x6 size?

The ones i used were 7.1mm long so you should be fine with the 6mm long version

Thanks! Got most of my parts ordered, and most of the printed parts printed. Hopefully will have my own soon!

"Soon" being at least 3 weeks because parts from China.

This project is amazing - wow - well done and thanks for sharing! I would like to clarify some measurements ( i think i'm just having a brain fart) but I intend on doing this with some spare parts form my mk2s so as to have a second mk2s ( i already have the rambo board, Y carriage plate and some other items) and had initially intended on doing this project on davtr's design however I really like this design that you've created. So, my queries, for this to be an mk2s, can anyone confirm the length of the aluminum extrusions and rods that would be required - as I imagine the Z rods for example would not be the same as my existing mk2s owing to the additional height of the Y base sitting atop of the X tower. Would these measurements be correct or has someone done this so as to confirm:
Base X - 255
Base Y - 330
Tower X - 360
Tower Z - 330
X rods - 370
Y Rods - 360
Z Rods - 320

I'm pretty sure my z calculations are wrong here for both the rods and extrsuions- basically as I have the rambo board I'm going to be loading this with the prusa firmware so I want the print area to be the same as my existing mk2s though I don't want as high a build profile as the wanhao, ideally the ratio should match that of my existing mk2s - does all this make sense - am i blabbering and confusing things!!

Tower Z - 380
Z rods - 350
Would that make sense?

Sorry mate, it looks like my reply got moderated for some reason. This should be your required extrusion lengths based on the stock prusa 320z 330y 370x rod lengths.

Axis Wanhao Rods Wanhao Extrusions Prusa Rods Diff Prusa Extensions
Y Axis 380 350 330 -50 300
Z Axis 320 355 320 0 355
X Axis Base 320 258 370 50 308
X Axis Tower 320 380 370 50 430

.

The proportions are a little different between the wanhao and the prusa. The prusa has a shorter y axis and wider x axis to allow for the wider bed. I'm not 100% sure it will carry accross without having to do a few changes to the parts, but you can play around with the tinkercad model to see if it all fits together.

OmNomNomagon - You sir are legendary, thank you very much! Not played around with Tinkercad before so i'll try and play around with that a bit to see if I can make it work. What parts do you think may not work directly carried across? perhaps I could use these parts from either Zaribo or Davtr's? (I think it was looking at both of these other models that confused me as I was trying to compare extrusion lengths to what they had for their build also but your calculations make sense so thanks again mate!)

EDIT: it's difficult as I've never played with Tinkercad before but from what I can gather after playing with the numbers - it appears as if it should all fit and work based on your calculations - perhaps someone else could confirm if they have time before I order the extrusions? Thanks again mate, really apprecieate it!

Comments deleted.

Where can i find details on how you hacked those 3 tables to build your enclosure and printer stand?

That's really slick.

Never mind I put in a little effort and found it :)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2685750

Wanhao Lack Triple Stack Enclosure Attack: With Sliding Control Box & Removable Top

Where do you mount the z axis limit switch? On the left Z tower?

Yep, there is a Z-EndStop part that screws into the tower extrusion frame.

Any thoughts on how to stiffen up the Z-gantry extrusions? For day-to-day usage it seems stiff enough, but if I try to pull it forward I can move it fairly easily. Currently each bottom corner has a metal L bracket with the plastic cover and then a corner bracket, but nothing on the back side because the motor mount is back there.

I'll try tightening everything up again, but also trying figure out if there's another (smaller) metal piece that would fit on the back, under the motor mounts, and tie the vertical and horizontal extrusions together better.

I just put this build together and I am using a 300mm Z axis so Im thinking about stiffening it up too. My first thought is to use some rod ends (like this) and steel shaft or threaded rod. The rod end can bolt directly to the y axis extrusion but I will probably need to design a little bracket to print out so that I can attach another rod end to the front of the Z extrusion. I dont actually notice any movement though even when I pull on the frame a little so Im not sure its actually needed. I might just do it for piece of mind.

Sounds like you may need to tighten up those screws as much as possible. Maybe check that each extrusion is firmly resting on each other and check at what point the frame is flexing? With 4x screw metal brackets in each z corner and 6x corner brackets holding the bottom crossbeam there should be very little give if any. I used a tool set with an allen key head and thick handle which allowed me tighten those screws harder than a normal allen key.

@OmNomNomagon
@EsPEEEE

I have noticed an ability to wiggle the z tower forward and back, the highlighted section can sort of "rock" and is made worse if you have a slight gap, I used a feeler gauge to ensure that there was little to no gap between the two extrusions, this made the z tower feel much stiffer, either way I don't think it matters all that much, if I'm not mistaken there aren't any forces that would move the tower in such a way.

hmmm I think DisposableNerd might be on the money here. Some of those Tnuts might not be locked in properly. Because the nuts are close to the end of the extrusion and because of the plastic bracket sandwich, It can sometimes be tricky to get them spanning across the extrusion properly. I noticed this a couple of times during assembly. The stability was coming from the screw hitting the back of the extrusion rather than the Tnut being locked across the extrusion.

Only other thing i can think of is maybe the Tnuts themselves. I had a few left over tnuts from a different project which had a longer "neck"? As in they protruded a little too far out so that even when screwed very tightly they were not applying compression forces on the extrusions. I got around it for these ones by gluing little pieces of fibre washers onto the grooved areas which reduced this protrusion and allowed them to compress against the extrusion properly. It was worst on the corner brackets as they have little tabs on the underside. This pic probably explains it much better. The Tnuts i bought specifically for this project didn't have this issue.

Spot on! The corner brackets with the tabs caused too much of a gap, I glued nylon washers to close the gap. Thanks for the suggestion, tower is extremely stiff now. Which Tnuts did you use that did not have this problem? - This does seem to be the only spot where the wrong spacing causes an issue.

Came to this same realization myself. I think the problem presents itself anywhere that corner backet is use on the side that the bracket has a small protrusion. Anyone know if misumi sells those brackets without the small nub on one side - or is there a correct orientation that prevents this scenario? Either way, I'm probably going to follow suit and just glue something onto the nuts to make them actually grip the extrusions.

Awesome! glad that fixed it, The ones that worked for me were from a local Australian seller on ebay, however the listing doesn't exist anymore. I'll try to find some other ones and link them here.

If you look inside the extrusion in your picture, it looks like your T nut is not in the proper orientation

Is it possible to convert the i3 Plus, or just the earlier models?

Amazing project, well done, and thanks for releasing it for everyone.

Everything should carry across without issue but I don't think anyone has tried this on a plus yet. The only thing is what to do with the electronics. I think a few people are coming up with an integrated control box but no idea if the melzi board in the plus has the same standoffs

I am converting my Plus over now. So far the X idler is too wide for the gantry and I had to dremel about 2mm out in order to get it to fit. The Z rods are also ~5mm too long and the Y rods are ~5-10mm too short

Hi Mate, do you have the exact lengths of the plus XYZ smooth rods? I found differing values online. I should be able make a few edits to allow these to fit without issue. Also which X-gantry idler file are you using? There is an 11mm one for the stock idler and a 9mm one for the aftermarket idlers. Do you have the dimensions for your idler gantry?

I printed both the 11 and 9mm idler version for the X gantry and my idler is 11.11mm wide bearing to bearing. I had to open the channel up by a few mm in order to get it to fit. I am using esun black PETG at 235C @ 45mm/s on a heavily modified and well tuned maker select mini. I have used this printer to maker other printers like the hypercube so I am certain it isn’t a printer steps per mm sorta issue.

The rods are 380mm, 332mm, and 319mm

Nice design! Seems I'm missing the Alternative & Optional Parts folder in the download?

To keep everything clean those are in a separate thing here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2720724

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Alternative & Optional Parts

Thank You for your time and effort!

Finally got everything operational, couple of sample prints with a Benchy and Calicat using MK10 MicroSwiss setup. Those were with my draft setting at 50mm/s - I haven't really done any calibration yet. I'm most happy with the general evenness of the layer lines and the significant reduction in ringing.

Also experimented with Marlin 1.1.8BugFix UBL 1.1 and getting good results after figuring out how to tune it in. Bilinear has been giving me problems even before the new build where half of my bed would have the right layer height and the other wouldn't - even after checking for square. UBL allows you to really dial in your mesh at specific points in on the bed. It's really time consuming to setup, but I think the results will be worth it in the end.

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:450956

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Wanhao i3 Complete Aluminium Extrusion & Prusa Mk3 Overhaul
by EsPEEEE
Comments deleted.

Love the design!

I'm currently working on my own rebuild of this printer and have a few questions.

1) I'm also using the latest mk3 x-ends:

  • Will it work with the stock idler pulley? I have changed it to use an M5 screw with an M5 nut

2) What was your hole size for an M5 screw? I'm using 5.2mm right now.
3) Are the brackets(holding the z-frame together), and the z-motor mount(at the bottom) fine to be printed in PLA?
4) How well are the stock 320mm z smooth rods holding up?

  • I'm trying to do quadra parking extruders and I'm not sure if the single z-rod on either side can handle the mass of the x-axis(2 406mm
    long 8mm smooth rods, and 2 v-slots)

That looks awesome mate. Where and how much are those linear rails? They look great.
1) check the gap inside the idler, it may not be wide enough for the stock idler, the idler on my i3 V2 was 11mm and the Prusa idler is around 9mm.
2) Also my screw hole is 4.9mm so that it fits tightly, You really don't want it to come loose.
3) I used ABS because I'm using it in an enclosure, but pla is more rigid probably a better choice as long as it doesnt get exceedingly hot.
4) Rods are holding up fine, They are held tightly now, whereas they are not secured at all on the wanhao for some weird reason. Whats the total weight of your X-gantry? You may need to get higher torque Z-motors, although the original ones are pretty beefy.

Thanks!
They're not linear rails, but v-slots, since legit linear rails are too expensive. There are basically solid V-wheels that slide up and down which will be attached to the x-carriage. They're about $12 for a 20x40 v-slot at 500mm long. I got the idea from a taz y-axis rebuild with v-slots

I'll probably go down to 4.9 as well, thanks for that info.

Maybe I'll just get some new idlers as the wanhao ones aren't that great

I'm using an enclosure too, I'll probably do most parts in PETG then and the brackets in PLA

Still not sure about z-axis though, might add room for some v-slots in case the rods are too strained.

For those with the springy Z lead screw decoupler - do you guys insert both the lead screw and motor shaft in all the way in so that they touch in the middle or do you keep a space between them only inserting enough to secure with the set screw? I thought the latter was the desired approach, but I'm considering letting mine touch because I don't think there's a lot of wobble in the first place.

Also, if you're using the current MK10 front plate, this probably goes without saying but make sure your extruder fan is always running. I accidentally disconnected mine and a portion of the plate that connects to the cooling block melted/warped and eventually snapped off - I've been able to super glue it back though.

One piece of feedback on the z rod holders that go on the motor mounts - it seems like it would be worthwhile to add the heat-sert screws into the motor mount where the z rod holders connect. Most of mine seemed to have stripped through the plastic already, so I may go back and just try to force heat-serts in.

Will try to show some pictures of prints soon. I've been having lots of issues trying to fix my original BLtouch and also switch over to an 18mm inductive probe with a mount that works. The one successful benchy I got looked fantastic right off the bed, but after it cooled and shrunk unevenly it didn't look as good - so I want to get a solid print with PLA to show off as my first print.

Heat-serts into the motor mounts is a great idea, I'll add it into the next update. BTW guys, I've released a major revision including all of the MK3 improvements, lots of little updates and probably the last update for a while. Here's the changelog.

1.1 - Major Prusa MK3 Update. This updates many of the original MK2s based parts to MK3 Based parts. This includes;

  • MK3 Based Part Cooling shroud and mount. It performs much better than the original Thorped based one. flawless @60 degree overhang with some sagging @70 degree overhang. The original would show artefacts @60 degrees.. Almost comparable to the Dii Cooler.

  • Much improved X Carriage. This uses the new MK3 belt mounting method which is much easier to install under tension. The whole extruder assembly can now also easily slide on and off the rods to greatly simplify installation and maintenance. 16mm M3 screws are used to secure the bearings. I've also made and tested changes which allow the extruder assembly to be built without heat-serts and can be substituted with M3 nylocks. NOTE: due to these changes the Rear carriage plate is NOT compatible with the existing Front extruder plate as the hole spacing has been changed. The New Front extruder plate must be used.

  • Front Extruder Plate. Better spacing around the hotend to improve the filament path. Updating Hole Spacing to be compatible with the new Rear Carriage Plate. Strengthened BLTouch mount. Increase spacing around heater block to reduce residual heat. NOTE: Not compatible with old extruder plate.

  • X Axis Motor Mount. Incorporates the new MK3 design. Better Spacing to ensure a straighter belt path. Includes new MK3 tensioner to easily tension X belt. Requires M3nS Nut and 20mm M3 screw. (Enough tension can be applied by without the M3nS) Installation is similar to the Prusa instructions here, steps 11-18.

  • As this project contains dozens of files already, Older retired files are retired to the Retired Versions directory in github

  • Thank you!

Just finished installing these changes, I especially like the new ability to easily remove the X carriage, new fan is shroud redirects a ridiculous amount of air, overall great update! Thanks!

Thanks mate, glad you liked the changes :)

Thanks again for keeping up on this and sharing - I'll definitely leave you a tip. At this point, there's no reason we couldn't just use the default Prusa MK3 parts, right? The spacing is essentially all the same in case new parts are continually release from Prusa research.

FWIW, if anyone else wants to use an 18MM inductive sensor instead of the BLtouch with the MK10 style hotend, this thing is what I'm using successfully now. Attaches to your hotend cooling fan screws, but does requires that you get longer 50MM M3 screws....I just so happened to have two lying around so it worked.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2039344

Last thing for me on this mod is that I want to find a way to mount the power supply and electronics all to the frame - so it's all one unit like the Prusa i3. Likely I'll have to mount it all to the front of the frame's 3030 extrusions. Let me know if you guys have come across any good options on Thingiverse that folks have already built; in all likelihood I may end up dusting off Fusion 360 and modifying something existing.

Prusa I3 Inductive Sensor mount
by frog03

Thanks Espeeee! Almost everything is still modified to fit our extrusion frame and original wanhao parts. E.g the Prusa X gantry parts have a 3mm idler hole instead of a 5mm on ours, rod lengths are very different, like 320mm for our X axis and 380 on the prusa and I'v lengthened the X motor mount to clear the frame. Apart form this, I've tried to make little improvement (such as the Y belt tensioner, improved rod clamping, extruder mount) and kept changes to a minimum.

I have mine touching, I had it that way on the old frame because if I tried it with space between on the stock frame something was misaligned horribly causing an awful squeezing noise.

I'm considering trying it with space between now that I have done the overhaul, that being said the z-rods are so much more secure compared to Stock that either way might not make much of a difference.

Hey, trying to print all of this. Printed all the feet today, 12 hours later...Ha. A couple of quick questions.

Can I use PLA for the entire parts list? PLA is all I have. On your github page, you mention that PLA can be used except for the extruder assembly. Can I use the stock assembly if I cannot print it in PLA?

Appreciate the help.

PLA should be fine for everything except for the part cooling fan shroud and the front extruder plate. Its definitely worth picking up some PETG or ABS if you can as the PLA will probably not last over time for those parts.

You should be able to keep the original Extruder carriage, the rod spacing is the same and the X-endstop should hit the tower extrusion. Not sure if the belt placement would cause any issues though, ill look into it

Prusa Research have updated their belt tensioning designs to be a lot easier to tighten. I'm in the process of adapting these parts and should have them tested and uploaded soon. This will involve new rear and front extruder plate (with new spacing so they are not compatible with current plates) and new X ider parts. I've also updated the cooling fan from a Thorped based one to the MK3 fan. It gives much better overhangs at 60 and 70 degrees. its currently available on the Titan extruder. I'll have a version updated for the MK10 carriage soon.

Great news, thanks for continuing to contribute to this project.

no worries, I'll have it uploaded later today. It should be a decent improvement from a build standpoint. it will allow for the extruder to be installed and removed much easier, with tensioners on both x the and y axis. Also improved spacing around the MK10 extruder, should be easier to line up.

@OmNomNomagon

Are you using an official E3D Titan Aero, and slim/pancake stepper or clones? Are you happy with it? I might be ordering one this week.

I'm using a genuine titan aero with a pancake stepper

It's a great extruder and hotend, I can print a lot faster and higher quality compared to the original extruder with micro swiss + improved gear.

Still, it's a bit annoying to get started, as I had some issues with clicking, but once you have it tuned, it creates beautiful prints.

Also, the stock fan blows more air than needed. Adding a Noctua silent adapter made it very quiet compared to the rest of the printer.

What would you say the speed bump is on the Titan over the MS? I've never really tried to go much faster than 50/60 MM/S with the MS and the stock frame, but now with the added rigidity am I still limited to that speed with the MS and stock extruder?

I'm using the stock frame(currently in the process of designing a better frame), and can easily reach 120mm/s with no problem. Of course, I can push it faster than that.

As a side note, I'm using a 32bit board but an 8bit board should be able to go faster than that fine, but it may have issues with circles occasionally.

Hi mate, wish I could have afforded an original but its a clone Trianglelabs titan Aero from aliexpress. however its fitted with a genuine hardened hobb, heatbreak, nozzle and thermister so that the whole filament path is genuine. It fits together and runs perfectly.
Print quality is great. Honestly the stock hotend can be almost as good, unless you want to print flexibles or start printing at higher speeds

Did you ever thing about just going with a standard V6 hotend and the Prusa Mk2/3 hotend setup, which appears to be a little more tall than wide vs. the aero. Just curious - I'm not aware of all the pro's/con's of each style.

Mainly I was keen to go with a titan extruder due to the 3:1 gearing allowing for a lighter stepper motor. I was looking at the titan / E3DV6 combo for a while. This is pretty tall however, which would impact build height.
The Aero is basically a titan and E3DV6 rolled into a single package that brings it closer to the MK10 style layout. The increase width of the titan is much smaller than the increase height of theTitan / V6 combo and the separate cost of a titan and V6 is very similar to the Titan Aero so I went with that.

Hah - first print was pretty sad...but not the fault of the design. The Igus bearings are definitely not working out on the Z-axis; went ahead and ordered 6 more short Misumi bearings, just going to use Misumi everywhere at this point. The combination of the Igus bearings, plus the spring lead screw couplers just cause havoc with the small auto bed leveling adjustments. The spring just coils up, then the Z axis makes big jumps as it unbinds. Also, probably going to go back to the original v2.1 rigid couplers instead of flex - with this setup and Misumi bearings it seems like the extra rigidity should be just fine.
Near complete build in enclosure here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:450956

Found an old inductive probe mount and was able to drill new holes to make it work with the existing bltouch mount for now. Eventually, I want to figure out how make one of these below work for my 18MM size inductive probe and mount it to the extruder fan screws.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748737
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2251941

Will post another "official" first print when I get a new set of Misumi bearings in later this week.

Monoprice Maker Select Sensor Mount for PLA
Z-Axis Induction Sensor for Wanhao i3 / MakerSelect 3D - 12mm Z Probe
ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Wanhao i3 Complete Aluminium Extrusion & Prusa Mk3 Overhaul
by EsPEEEE

Initial post build notes - still waiting on printing while I figure out how to fix my bltouch or jerry-rig my inductive probe in place of the bltouch:

  • In addition to the M5 steel washers, grab some M5 fiber washers too. If you want to choose 1 over the other, then I would just use get the fiber washers.

  • If using standard ABS, test print at least one part and see how much shrinkage you can expect. I used Hatchbox Red ABS and probably needed to scale all my parts up 1-2.5% after shrinkage and acetone vapor treatment. I was able to work around it by drilling out the hole clearance, but that was a lot of extra work.

  • When installing the heat insert nuts, screw a long M3 screw all the way through so that it sticks out just a little - hold it in place with the screw while applying the soldering iron directly to the brass heat insert. This makes it much easier guide the inserts in properly and also ensure that molten plastic does flow into the threads. I learned this tip after installing all of mine :(

  • I brought brand new Misumi rods in addition to the recommended bearings. They weren't terribly expensive, but after realizing my original v2.1 rods were still in really good shape and flat - I should have just spent the money on more bearings.

  • If you're contemplating between getting Misumi or Igus bearings and you don't already some Igus bearings - just buy the Misumi ones. They are much more hassle-free than the Igus options and relatively quite at normal printing operations. FWIW, I have 3 Misumi on the y-axis (2 short, 1 long), 1 long on the x-axis (with 2 igus bearings), 4 on the z-axis per OP's suggestion. If you were going to use Igus, only use them on the X or Y axis DO NOT USE THEM on the z-axis.

  • Since I have a bed-leveling setup, I swapped out my corner springs for standoffs - will be interested to see if this helps with print quality since I felt like my bed used to move a lot with the original spring setup.

  • I would hold off on smoothing your prints with acetone vapor. From my experience, although it smoothed my parts a little and made them more shiny, they are still a ways away from looking like injection molded components. More importantly, I think it actually made my parts weaker rather than stronger, which was my expectations. I had 2 parts break that I had to super glue back into place, and that was with 4 walls and 40% infil.

Great write up! I was worried about Z axis binding on IGUS. But FWIW, with Misumi bearings using flexible couplings works perfectly.

ABS definitely shrinks by quite a bit, my build was printed in PETG but at one point my front extruder plate was ABS and I had to make the holes slightly bigger to line up the holes.

Did you use the recommended heat inserts? I did not have issues with plastic getting into the threads but I could see how with other styles it could be an issue.

I definitely agree with Misumi vs IGUS, I already had IGUS on hand so I installed them on X and Y and with Y, I would borderline recommend it, With X it has a bit more friction than I would like, I'm currently trying a different PTFE lube that might resolve that issue, otherwise I might be replacing everything with Misumi in the future.

Would you be willing to upload a photo of your standoff setup? I did something that I think is similar with 2 nylocks http://i.imgur.com/2rpTgbp.jpg

Here's how my standoffs look: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/37/28/7c/88/fa/IMG_1010.jpg

They are essentially plastic spacers with M3 brass threading. I now recall that I picked them up from radioshack a few years back in the US - but I've got to imagine someone else makes them.

If I was going to order any myself, you could probably go with nylon standoffs or the rubber ones they sale for FPV drones: Here's and example: https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Spacer-Assorted-Raspberry-Pi-Standoff/dp/B014J1ZLD6/ref=pd_day0_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014J1ZLD6&pd_rd_r=M4VFM3WZ5GT08AMN601V&pd_rd_w=awn0U&pd_rd_wg=nuMMm&psc=1&refRID=M4VFM3WZ5GT08AMN601V

Thanks for the feedback, this is some really good info.
Love the idea of using standoffs, do you have a link to the ones you used? Might be a good way to increase stability and also gain a few mm of build height.
Also which acetone vapor parts did you have issues with snapping? I can try to strengthen these a bit if possible. Was it using a proper heated vapor chamber, or just surface applied or room temp vapor?

Unfortunately, don't have a link - just ones I happen to have sitting around for pcb boards. They are black plastic on the outside, and female on both side, with a brass insert that goes all the way through and fits an M3 screw. TBH, there are probably standoff models on thingiverse that could be printed and then use one or two of the heatserts to give it proper threading - I just used my left over 6-8MM countersunk M3 screws from both the top or bottom.

I just used cold vapor, which may have been the issue. Stuck the parts in a bucket on a pedestal with an acetone soaked paper towels along the walls, for 25-40 minutes, then let them air-out for a day or two before assembling. As far as breaking parts - the corner Z-brace bracket that holds the Z linear rod and lead screw and also attaches to the frame - one of them broke on the corner nearest the linear rod circle. It was a clean break, right on a layer line, even before trying to tighten the tightening screw. The other was the fan mount bracket that broke near the base on one of the arms, again another clear break on a layer line - there's also not much room for error with the heatsert. In both cases it may have very well been a combination of poor extrusion on those layers, bad acetone vaporizing, and the additionally drilling that I had to do to the openings on those parts.

Finishing the last bit of cabling and hoping to get my first test print later tonight.

Had a question about the x-axis min end stop - since it got moved to the Z tower, did you pull the original wiring from the x-gantry cabling so you could have access to it on the z tower? That's what I ended up doing and just re-did the connector.

Once I get through my test print, I'll share my brief build notes for anyone else going through the process.

Yes, I pulled the X endstop wires back out of the last cable chain and cut them, the connect the endstop the the X-idler. I figure less wires connected to the hotend results in less resistance.

Just wanted to say thanks so much for creating this. Its what I love about 3d printers! I left you a tip so you can have a coffee on me! :)

Thanks so much mate :)

OmNom - any chance you can share your Marlin Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h files. I realize things might not be exactly the same, but I want to take a look at your settings.

Also, FWIW, with the stock v2.1 y-axis bearing clips I'm able to use the standard Prusa carriage width without hitting the inner corner brackets. If someone ever gets around to cloning that new MK3 removable bed, then it should be relatively easy to retro fit.

What exactly are the inner corner brackets used for? I couldn't find mention of them in the Wiki. Thanks for the great, detailed notes btw!

Cheers for the carriage info that's great news. My last config for the stock MK10 hotend was on a much older marlin 1.1.6. I don't think it will compile on the current marlin 1.1.8 though. Give me a couple of days and I'll upload my current firmware and configure it for the MK10 on marlin 1.1.8.

I'm about to start printing the parts needed and ordering all the hardware. What is the max z print height with all the recommended parts listed

If you assemble it like i have you will have 195-200mm z-height. If you flip the tower180 degrees there is more clearance and it will be around 210mm. Its also very easy to buy slightly larger extrusions and rods to increase your z height if that is your main goal.

I just want to have a solid 200mm height at least. So i should replace the z extrusion pieces for some 20mm longer ones? Tia

Yep you will get 200mm on this with stock parts and the extrusion lengths recommended. Just spin the tower 180 assembly degrees and you will get 210mm without having to worry about the extruder hitting the top beam. If you just buy longer extrusions without longer leadscrews or rods you will just throw everything out of wack.

I just uploaded my build where I extended the Z height up to 300mm. All you need to do it is longer extrusions and new shafts / lead screws. I put all the lengths I used in the write up on my make which you should be able to get to from the top of this page.

Parts came in, starting to put it together - had a few questions come up:

1) Can you explain how you fit the Y Axis pulley with washers on both sides? I can get 2 washers on and the pulley, but no way to get my fingers or pliers for the last two before pushing the bolt all the way through
2) My front and back feet are higher than the middle bottom bar so it rocks slightly from front to back - is that to be expected? If so, did you resolve it with adding foot padding?
3) Not sure if was something I accidentally did in my slicer or if you changed the file, but my Y axis motor mount is completely inverse from what I see in your pictures. Don't think it will hurt anything, I'll just line it up and mount the opposite way.

Here's a current in progress picture: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:450956

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Wanhao i3 Complete Aluminium Extrusion & Prusa Mk3 Overhaul
by EsPEEEE

1) You don't want too many washers in there if there is not enough room. I used fiberous washers which may be slightly thinner than what you have. The easiest way is to add washers is to remove the part from the frame, put it on its side and slide the bolt up from the bottom while adding washers.

2) The Front and back feet should be level with the bottom beam. The plate bracket is 3.2mm + 26.8mm for the legs which should exactly match the 3030 extrusion at 30mm. Could you please measure the parts? Are you sure you didn't get SHPTLS6 instead of HPTLS6. Those brackets are 3.0mm instead of 3.2mm. If you can't get it to match, some foam or felt feet should level it up.

3) Good eye! the one in my photo is reversed compared to the current part. This reverses the direction of the motor compared to stock. I mirrored the part when uploading so people on stock Melzi boards don't have to go through the trouble of editing firmware or switching wired to reverse the motor direction.

Your colour scheme looks awesome btw.

Any tips on how you kept the parts square when building the y-frame and adding the bottom z tower. I have a square, but pieces are perpendicular and laying on top of each other it makes it a little tricky to get it exactly right. Also, trying to hold the z tower square while also keeping it 180MM from the front was tricky.

Your best bet is to secure four of the six little corner brackets that hold the crossbeam before adding the tower parts. The two front ones that sandwich the plate can wait till you completely lock in the beam with the other 4 corner brackets. If you tighten everything to 90% it gets quite rigid but still allows you to slide it around if needed. Once that crossbeam is locked adding the vertical tower extrusions is much easier. I've updated the wiki pages for the base and tower to make it clearer.

Thanks - I only have steel washer, but was able to get 2 on one side and 1 on the other successfully which still allows for a little play and rolling, but it's not completely sliding around.

Double checked my Misumi order and I definitely ordered the HPTLS6 - I've already thrown out the bag they came in to confirm that they didn't grab the wrong stock. Measuring with calipers confirms that it's closer to 3.2mm than 3.0mm. TBH, I have a feeling it's probably more related to general ABS shrinkage and my acetone vapor treatment than the part being wrong - I probably should have scaled up the model ~2-5% to account for shrinkage.

I've been sitting on roll of red Hatchbox ABS for nearly year and this project was just the right endeavor to break it out.

Finished up most of the heated inserts today and x-axis, just need to finish tearing my existing machine apart for the rest of the parts and should have it up and running by the weekend.

Ah of course, sounds like ABS shrinkage. I'll add a note to allow for it in the future. I didn't have any noticeable shrinkage with ABS+ and forgot to mention it.

FYI M5 hex nuts are too small to fit into 3030 extrusions. Might want to update your info.

Thanks, I the ones I had laying around fit, but they may not be standard, I'll update the BOM

For the additional GT2 belt required, did you go with a reinforced belt - either fiberglass or SS; or just a standard non-reinforced plastic one. Feels like fiberglass reinforced is the way to go, but not sure how much improvement there really is if you tension the belt properly.

I went with a Gates 2GT belt. Its a quality fibre reinforced belt, definitely a step above the normal ones.

Having trouble finding the right size M3 heat-serts in the USA that will ship fast - any idea if these will work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077CHFGVT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_12?smid=A24O6EMQMM16X3&psc=1

Thread Pitch: M3-0.5
OAL (length): 6.35mm
D1 (top): 5.6mm
D2 (bottom): 4.83mm

Also for the replacement M5 Idler Pulley - did you go with toothless or toothed? Looks like you may have gone tooth and with either 16t or 20t?

Ideally you will need ones with an outer diameter of 4.4mm. Those may be a bit too wide. I went with toothless idlers, The toothed ones can be tricky making sure belt is evenly tensioned.

FWIW I was able to find the USA based element14 and ordered your exact heat-serts. Unfortunately, the only stock is in the UK so I still need to way a week for them to arrive, but that's better than a month from China.

http://www.newark.com/tr-fastenings/m3-uhbrhesf/brass-insert-unheaded-m3/dp/46Y7942?ost=M3-UHBRHESF&scope=partnumberlookahead&exaMfpn=true&searchref=searchlookahead&ddkey=http%3Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fw%2Fsearch

Actually - ended up ordering the injection molded versions - should be able to make them work.. Shipping from the UK was actually going to take 2 months+

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IYWUUH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't get the amazon link to pull up in my browser for some reason, I think people would have more success if they cut off everything after the product ID field. Went ahead and ordered these and the LM8UU bearings today, fingers crossed it all comes together.

I'm planning on building a printer from scratch, do you think the standard Prusa i3 y-carriage plate would work?

Or what plate are you using: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/OmNomNomagon/ReDuplicator-MK2sx/master/Pics/7%20Y%20Axis/Yaxis1.jpg it doesn't look like a standard one.

Awesome that you're building it from scratch. Its a drop in replacement for the stock plate as the stock one is prone to warping. Its from here. http://tehnologika.net/Wanhao-duplicator-i3-composit-heated-bed-support-y-carriage-plate-reprap/ and is the 3 bearing 209x209 version.

The wanhao rod spacing is 140mm. The stock repraps are around 170mm. I believe this may cause the bearing blocks to hit the corner brackets on the base. However if you use these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Deek-Robot-T-slot-L-type-3030-aluminum-profile-Inside-corner-connector-bracket-with-screws/32848955783.html? you should be able to use a stock reprap plate.

It looks like your parts are designed with both the prusa i3 and the wanhao i3 mounting holes? That's cool

Am I crazy or is the Y belt idler missing?

Not crazy, think I accidentally removed the Y idler instead of the Y carriage mount during the last update. Its hard to keep track of so many parts sorry. Should be fixed now.

Would any of the brackets here work?

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/Aluminium_Profile_Brackets_with_8mm_slot_profile.html

I'm struggling to find the parts you used :( I can get them to cut the extrusions it seems though.

You can use 8 of these for the corners of the base and the tower.

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/30x30-Bracket-KJN523525.html

However you will need 6 brackets without a tab on one side in order to secure the extrusion perpendicular to the base. You should be able to substitute these, which should ship worldwide:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Aluminum-Alloy-2-Hole-90-degreee-Inside-Corner-Bracket-for-Aluminum-Profile-Extrusion-2020/32659764077.html

or these (more expensive though):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-hole-Inside-Guesset-Corner-Angle-L-Brackets-Fastener-Fitting-Round-Hole-for-3030-Aluminum-Profile/32663460063.html

For the flat brackets, there aren't any substitutes that match the hole layouts. You can use the plastic versions of the legs and the brackets. Alternatively if we find a bracket which is cheap and ships world wide, I can recreate those parts with the new hold spacing dimensions. This is the closest I've found so far, although it is missing some measurements.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/10pcs-80mm-x-80mm-L-Type-Bracket-Stainless-Steel-1-5mm-Thickness-Mending-Repair-Plate-Connector/1724860_32760040283.html?spm=2114.12010108.1000023.5.79294a13fn8ErA

Thanks! finally i'm a bit confused about the t-nuts you list them as being m5 drop in t-nut. Do I need the ones specifically for the 30 series? The reason I ask is that they look pretty big!

I wouldn't risk getting the 2020's, They may have too much play. There are lots of 3030 M5 options around. e.g.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-50pcs-3030-Aluminum-Profile-with-Slot-Groove-8mm-M4-M5-M6-Nickel-Plated-T-Bolt/32825325332.html

Really want to do this but man.. cannot source those bill of materials. :(

I'm trying to put together a BOM of stuff from Aliexpress which should ship worldwide and be a bit cheaper. some of it is posted above.

Heads up that PETG doesn't seem resistant enough for the Mk10 mount, the part gets a bit melty.

@OmNomNomagon Do you have the offset values for the BLTouch?

Upgrading to the Titan Aero is calling my name, but I'm going to give my wallet a chance to recover haha.

Here are the offset values for the mK10 mate.

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 24
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -36

Looks like you had a v2 Maker Select, anything worth keeping from the v2.1 Maker Select. For example, using the v2.1 rigid coupler vs the flex coupler on the v2. Or, the v2.1 had plastic y-carriage bearing holder instead of the aluminum ones.

Also, how's the Bltouch working out for you? I had one for close to a year and it worked well enough, but it recently just completely crapped out on me - went back to an inductive probe - but now I need to figure out how to model a mount for your design.

Its a good idea to keep the Y axis injected bearing holders. I think the V2 and V2.1 both had rigid couplers. I swapped mine to the flexible ones during an earlier upgrade.

My BLTouch is a Chinese clone so i can't speak for the quality of the original. but once dialed in, it has worked without a hitch. If you can find an accurate model of the probe i'll try to model up a mount for it when i find some time.

I think I found a CAD model below in the first link and here are some examples mounts using the same probe. It's really just needing to have an 18MM diameter circle that I can slide it into and use the washers/nuts that come with the probe to hold it at the right height.

https://grabcad.com/library/inductive-proximity-sensor-lj18a3-8z-bx-1
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1429280
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1326909
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2629401
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520340

Holder for inductive sensor LJ18A3-8-Z/BX
by maffie
LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm z probe x carriage mount
Anet A8 Titan Aero carriage & fan duct
Auto leveling probe holder for Prusa I3 for 8mm sensor

Currently in process of printing parts, waiting on Misumi parts to come in, thought of a couple more questions in the interim:

1) Did you do any acetone smoothing on the ABS parts to smooth them out, and maybe even make them a little stronger from the annealing that occurs
2) Have you considered switching over to a clone of the Prusa MK42 (now 52) heated beds? I guess those are 250MM wide, hard to tell, but any chance that would fit with the current width of your setup or would I need to extend the width of the y axis extrusions?

Yes, I smoothed most of the parts in a pot of acetone vapor without any heat. This doesn't have as pronounced results but it still gives everything a nice shine. I'm using eSUN ABS+ as well which doesn't respond to acetone as much as a normal ABS. Prusa seem to be building the MK3 exclusively out of PETG now, it might be worth going that route too.

The plan is to eventually get a hold of a Prusa MK52 heatbed. It will fit within the current frame although the hotend will not reach each edge in its current config. The Wanhao has 320mm X axis rods while the Prusa is 370mm. Prusa are selling the heatbeds directly from their site, but are on a massive backorder and only limited to 12v, so this may be on the back burner for a while.

My problem is that I've design my printer with a large z axis (460mm) and plan on expanding it. Need to print long FPV wings. I fear is not going to be precise enough without holding the end.

The rigidity of the Tower and Z axis rods is what will keep everything precise. No leadscrew is perfectly straight and fixing them at both ends means that any wobble will get transferred directly into your print. This is even more important on longer leadscrews as it is even less likely that they are perfectly straight. You can try to mod a cap for the leadscrew to constrain it within the top z axis part if you must, but I believe its not a good idea

Thanks for making these. I've printed only a handful or part as I've done mine with 1"x2" alu extrusion frame and surprisingly it worked: top and bottom z, x-motor and idler. however, never cared for bowden system. Could never get it running correctly simply because it calls for too much retraction. Very solid frame. I might say way over killed. Very nice. thanks again. One question i have is, the top z lead screw support, you've made the end in hex. Can't seem to find to fit the lead screw end. I see yours does not meet with the end but i think i'll be nice to have a bearing on top just to eliminate any wobbles.

No worries mate, glad you got it all working. Regarding the leadscrews, they are supposed to be free as it is a very bad idea to constrain them. Locking them on both ends will cause the X axis to shift around instead and introduce artefacts in your print. It seems counter intuitive but the base and X axis are firm and the tops should be free to move if the leadscrews are not 100% straight.

If you don't mind me asking. What would you price this upgrade as?

Mine came to just over $120 USD, with a lot of that being shipping to Australia. It depends highly on where you are, what you have laying around and if you don't mine waiting on cheap parts from china. I'd say it could be done for much cheaper if you are in the US.

Just out of curiosity - any chance you have video of this printer in action with all the latest mods? With the Titan extruder installed, what's the top speed you can push to for draft prints 80-100 MM/s?

Video and benchy picture that show closeup external perimeters quality. At 2 pictures of benchy is no visible layers quality.

If you zoom in on this pic you can see the individual layers. I can't really get any closer than that with my RX100

No worries, I'll whip something up when i can. I've bumped up the print/travel acceleration and jerk and generally print at 80m/s infill and 60m/s outline. Small and detailed parts are perfect at 45m/s outline. I get better results now than I did before at much slower speeds. Large square parts print at 100m/s with no layer shifting or inconsistancies.

Following on from this, can I ask what you bumped up the acceleration and jerk to? I want to start increasing the speed a bit where I can now.

Here are my current settings. I'm still tweaking here and there but have had good results with values:

Maximum Acceleration
X axis 2500 mm/s2
Y axis 2500 mm/s2
Z axis 150 mm/s2
E 9000 mm/s2

Printing Acceleration moves 1000.00 mm/s2
Retract 3000.00 mm/s2
Travel1800.00 mm/s2

Max X jerk 12.00 mm/s
Max Y jerk 12.00 mm/s
Max Z jerk 0.40 mm/s
Max E jerk 5.00 mm/s

Thanks, I'll give that a bash!

I'm about to pull the trigger on this and I'm curious just how important HPTLS6 and HBLFSNB6 are.

Considering PLA is much stiffer than PETG, I'm curious about the recommendation to use PETG or ABS before using PLA. Sure PETG is stronger, but PLA is much stiffer and considering this thing isn't going to take any impacts, I would think rigidity is the goal here. I have a spool of Protopasta CF that I don't have a use for and I'm thinking that it'd be perfect for the frame hardware at 100% infill.

These metal brackets are probably the most important thing for rigidity, and all of the bracket parts in the main project are modeled around them. e.g. For HPTLS6 the Leg model matches the hole spacing and adds up to exactly 30mm so that it sits level with the underside crossbeam. I also have a remix with plastic only parts but I cannot vouch for how strong those will be in comparison. Alternatively you can source your own brackets and edit the relevant 3d parts. Your local hardware store will definitely have a flat corner bracket of some sort.

Also you are correct, PLA is stiffer so it also a very good candidate. I'm just going off the Prusa MK2S which is a mixture of PETG and ABS parts. I believe they are looking into using PLA in the future.

Fantastic share & write-up, given all the item I need to grab from Misumi, do you have a suggestion for better steel rods to purchase from them, that work well their LM8U's?

Have you considered IGUS bearings with this setup? I know there's lot of threads on the topic, I've tried both and generally prefer the IGUS, but have suffered from the binding issues mentioned by others when my frame gets out of square.

You can't go wrong with their hardened chrome plated 8mm stuff e.g. CPSFJ8-380, CPSFJ8-320. Its very reasonably priced too.
I've come from igus bearings myself due to trying to get the machine as quiet as possible. The problem with them is it takes significantly longer to square the machine properly and prevent binding. In testing the Misumi bearings are significantly quieter than stock and almost as quiet as the igus ones. I have ended up using a 50 % 50 mix of igus and misumis.

Thanks for the feedback, so the bearing rod lengths would still be the same 380/320 same as the extrusion lengths? Or do they need to be shorter? I guess ultimately, they just need to be the same length as the original rods.

These are the lengths of the rods compared to the extrusions

Z Axis = 2x 320mm Steel Rod = 2x 355MM Extrusion
Y Axis = 2x 380mm Steel Rod = 2x 350MM Extrusion
X Axis = 2x 320mm Steel Rod = 2x 258MM Extrusion Base X
= 2x 380MM Extrusion Tower X

if you want to extend any of these to make the printer bigger, just add N to the rod and extrusion.

Comments deleted.

This project is on my todo list, and I like that color ABS you used, what brand is it?

Thanks, your work on this is fantastic!

Cheers :). Its Esun ABS+. At first I didn't think it was "Orange enough" but it ended up being perfect. its very easy to work with for an ABS. Esuns PLA+ orange is a lighter shade of orange for some reason, definitely not as nice.

Sat down and purchased everything today, in the process of printing the parts now. Ended up choosing Hatchbox PETG Orange for printed parts.

Great to hear! I thought the spool looked like esun but I too was disappointed by the creamsicle orange of pla+

Hey what webcam is that and how is it attached? I don't see anything about it on the wiki

Its a really old logi c270 that I had laying around. There is a basic webcam plate in the project and you can add your chosen webcam mount via an M3 bolt and nylock. I used this excellent design. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2426231. The webcam itself also has a bunch of mods on it to allow for a variable focus depth, but if you're looking for a webcam i'd say there are much better options available these days.

Camera Mount for Logitech C270 on 2020 Extrusion

Cool thanks. I'm really considering reusing some smooth rods from my old zonestar p802 (448/380/350mm lengths) to build this, expanding the X-axis and Z-axis a bit, and maybe either IDEX or just a dual extruder carriage...

Very cool!

How much taller do you think you could go with this design before you needed to start bracing the z-axis?

Oooh, good question mate. I'm not entirely sure. I can barely get a mm of movement out of the frame when gripping the top of the tower and the bottom frame when using most of my strength, I'm sure you can easily go at least another 100mm.

Awesome!

I feel like doing your mod would be a great opportunity to increase the height capabilities for not much more money in parts.

Thats a great idea mate. If you're getting the recommend parts from Misumi anyway i think they offer some really nice steel rods for a pretty good price

Great stuff! Thanks for following through!

My di3 already has an aero mounted to it, or I'd be starting this now, but I'll be keeping my eye open for your aero mount.

Honestly, this seems like such a upgrade, I might just be remixing my own mount in a few months so I can move forward!

I've got the Aero running and am making a few more final tweaks before i upload it. Should be done in a couple of days. Out of interest, what sort of retraction settings are you using? I'm still trying to dial it in.

Heya, Om.

Nice, that's great news! Curious to see your take on it.

For retraction settings, I went near the median of e3d's direct drive recommendation of .5-1mm, and lowered it to .8mm; no apparent issues.

Here's the link for the titan mount mate. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744724. Please let me know how you go with it. I made it as compact as possible.

ReDuplicator i3 MK3x - Titan Aero Mount

regarding the titan aero mount. do you still use the same rear bearing plate?
i am just asking because i would already print that part and wait for your titan aero stl updates :)

great project btw and thx for sharing!

Yes, it uses the same rear plate. The only change to existing parts is that I had to add a few extra endstop mount holes on the X-idler part. However if you've already printed it out you can easily just drill a couple of 1.5mm holes. I've already uploaded those parts and I'll have the rest of the titan files online today as well.

Wow, hello from reddit! OP came thru! GG OP! And dang, fantastic write up on this, thanks!

Hello.

You project is very good. I planing to change my prusa steel to you frame. I have vertical stripes on Y axis because motor vibrating on steel frame. Can you upload more pictures of print quality?

No worries, There is a print quality pic in the gallery but I'm upgrading to a Titan Aero at the moment and will post more pics when its back up and running. Are the stripes only on the Y and not the X axis? Maybe try to decouple your motor with rubber / hard neoprene washers. Are you sure it is not belt tension related?

Stripes is only on y axis. I testing now diffrent isolating materials and planing to remove mk2b +4mm glass and install aluminium heatbed with pei sheet. Belt is property tension.
Yes! I have titan too and waiting for you results and stl files of X carriage.
You printing plastic parts from ABS?
Thanks for respond.

All I can say is wow. I have a good mind to cancel my update order from Prusa and build one of these. You my friend are very talented and did a great job. This is what the new i3 should look like when they updated it. Now I know I say this premature because it my look very good but hopefully it prints as well as it looks but, looking at your attention to detail i have no doubts it will. Great job and thank you for sharing.

Hello, is there no cad sources available? (for autocad or solidworks)