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mdkendall

2.5inch Three Jaw Chuck

by mdkendall Nov 26, 2017
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Very nice object, fully functionnal on a home-made 4th axis

If U plan to print it, make sure you have printed a calibration cube just before and adjusted your steps/mm so that X and Y dimensions are as equal as possible.
If U don't, housing and scroll plates won't spin !
U are warned. I have been trapped....

I love the low profile design. Would it be possible to either get the original solidparts so I can modify to a 6in chuck. I need 6in per tooth, so I need to adjust the base, jaws, and spiral. Thanks for your help!

If you follow the a360 link at the end of the description it should take you to an Autodesk page for the chuck. At top right there is a download link where you can download the assembly either in Fusion 360 native format, or in vendor-neutral formats such as STEP or IGIS. The design was done in Fusion 360, so that is the format that would have the full parametric design info in it and would be the best starting point if you want to make significant changes.

Nice work! I have printed about 15 of these! Right now the printer is printing 5 more. I am using them in finishing some of my smaller woodturnings, such as finials, small boxes, icicles and other parts (on miniature birdhouse Christmas ornaments). I built a gang of spindles for turning the item slowly after applying polyurethane finish. The turning keeps the poly from running. I first used OpenSCAD to make adapters for the M14 thread to the 5/8" by 11 tpi threads used on my spindles. Later, I found the I could import the .stl file into OpenSCAD and just modify the thread in the housing itself. In addition, I have modified the jaws three ways: by increasing the step depth, adding long points on the tips to hold inside a 1/4" hole, and jaws like found on most woodturning chucks.

I did have one question. What % infill do you recommend? I have printed some at 25% and others at 100%. Currently I am trying 50%. Do you know of any way I could print the weak part (I have broken a couple of housings printed at 25%) of the housing at 100% and the rest at 25%?

Thanks for the comments; sorry for the delay in replying. If you want to make it stringer I think that increasing the number of perimeters (which thinkens the walls) and increasing the number of top and bottom layers (which thinkens the horizontal surfaces) is probably more effective than increasing the infill. Personally I have printed these with three perimeters and five top and bottom layers together with 25% infill.

I tried printing the housing with different wall thicknesses and different top and bottom layer thicknesses. Then I broke each of the housings to see if I could tell which might be the strongest. I only tried 3 times and my only conclusion was that the two that printed the weak part almost 100% were stronger that when I used a wall thickness which allowed some infill in the weak part, which is the part connecting the wings to the threaded part of the housing. I notice that there is a rounded space where the jaws meet at the center. I don't see the need for this. I am going to try to remove this hole by adding material to each "wing" so they make a point at the center.

I am not sure how I am going to do this as I do not have the original design, only the stl. Are you interested in helping with this?

It was a while ago so I don't remember all the details, but generally speaking the central features of the housing were arrananged to avoid the need for any support material when printing. There are chamfers there that exist only to ensure that there are no horizontal surfaces.

You do actually have access to the source files. At the end of the description there is a Fusion 360 link. From that page you can download the source in a variety of formats including STEP which should be good for you whatever CAD software you prefer.

Best of luck with your changes.

Amazing! Would this work on a dremel?

There is no convenient way to mount this directly to a Dremel, so you would either have to modify it (there is a link to the CAD files in the description) or make an adapter that screwed into the rear and could be held in the Dremel chuck. But I think you might be a bit worried about stability. The Dremel chuck is small, and they spin at high speed. If you try this make sure you have some kind of safety guard and wear eye protection.

Thanks for sharing the native CAD file! (Fusion360). Time to go adjust this for my power drill :-)

thank you sir im going to print this!

At what layer height do you recommend we print the chuck?

And thanks for the model can't wait to print it, it's going to come in real handy for a project I'm doing.

Again thank you.

Printing at 0.2mm layer height should be fine; that is what I have used. You could use 0.15mm for the jaws if you want for more detail, but really the most important thing there is to use a brim to ensure good bed adhesion.

Good afternoon. Can you draw under the 1/2 thread 20UNF?

How does it stay in place? Does friction stop it from vibrating loose? Id rather not have a piece of wood flying at my face (:

Not sure which part you are asking about. If you are asking how the chuck stays on the spindle, it screws on via a M14 thread in the back of the housing. The direction of the thread is such that in use, the load from cutting the work tends to tighten the connection. If you are asking how the scroll plate stays attached to the housing, it is held in place by the circlip (snap ring). This connection is not under load in use, although you could use a metal circlip rather than the printed one if you are worried.

Sorry for the confusion. I get how those parts stay in place, but I was wondering how the scroll plate doesnt get 'unscrewed'. It is pressing the jaws, but nothing is keeping the scroll plate from vibrating and releasing the tension on the jaws again, right?

I guess it works in the way any screw does: there is a huge amount of mechanical advantage due to the shallow angle of the threads which means that a modest amount of tightening force results in a large amount of clamping force between the side walls of the male and female threads. This design is not novel, you will find the same mechanism in any standard three-jaw lathe chuck.

Any chance that you can upload STEP files for these parts? Unfortunately I need a chuck with a 3/4-16 thread (Sherline mount).

Hello micvee, please see the last paragraph of the Summary on the Thing Details tab. There is a Fusion 360 public link where you can view the model online and also download it in a variety of formats including STEP. Look at the top right on that page for the blue Download button.

Hi, Nice Chuck
but some thing don't fit together.
The scroll plate and the housing ( scroll plate is too big)
Scroll plate and jwas.

Why? do I make a mistake?

Hi, Just wanted to say I love this design compared to the others out there. Would you be willing to share the f360 files (even privately) for it so i can pump out a few remixes?

Ditto to this request. Or the files from which ever CAD System you used?

Thank you very much for your data I am going to take you into account and again I congratulate you for your work, thank you very much

Hello, I have the lathe EMCO unimat sl, and I congratulate you for the work that was taken in the design and also thank you to publish it, a question, it is very difficult to do the knurling in the part that tightens, since it would be the only thing that it would differentiate it from the original, I am already 56 years old and the CAD is a little complicated for me, I am starting with FRECAD that seems to me to be quite good, many greetings from Argentina, thanks

Knurling is not inherently hard. Typically one would start with a diagonal line projected on to the surface of the cylinder, use that as a path along which to sweep a small cut, use a circular pattern to repeat that many times around the circumference, then use a mirror to copy the whole thing to the opposite diagonal to create the typical diamond knurl. That is straightforward but it creates hundreds or even thousands of small features in the model, which can really slow down the CAD program. So I chose to just provide the holes for Tommy bars for tightening. Any 4mm rods should fit.

Here is a good video on creating knurling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSYQLpQhr9M

Hello, Let me start off with this deign is great! But I am using it to hold miniatures for painting. With that being said there are a couple changes I would like to make to adapt it. Would it be possible to get he fusion 360 files so that I can tweak the object? Thank you!

If this was made in fusion 360, would you be willing to share the Fusion360 file? I'm trying to use this on a drill whose chuck cant fit a 14mm bolt, and i would like to change it to a M8.

I have an M12x1 threaded shaft I found on ebay that has a small flange just below the threads the rest is fairly smooth with an 8mm diameter.it is for a chinese design very close to your work, They say it fits the Chinese 6 in 1 machines. So, would it be too much trouble to release a version with the M12 thread?

Sure. I have published a remix with the thread changed to M12x1. Please see thing 2772119.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772119

Three Jaw Chuck M12 Version

Thanks for response!!

Hi. Could you tell me what is the internal threaded size that you use to be able to adapt it to a utility? is it metric? I have seen that it is 16 mm, but I do not know the metric. I am a novice to read the data well. Thank you.

The internal thread is M14 x 1mm, which is a standard metric thread with a 14mm diameter and a pitch of 1mm. The unthreaded portion of the hole is 16mm diameter for clearance.

Material, Fill density, wall thickness? thanks

I printed in PLA at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle, 5 top and bottom layers, 3 perimeters, with 25% cubic infill. You could use higher infill for the jaws if you want, but it would likely only offer a modest increase in strength.

I expect ABS would work fine too, if you can get the jaws to print with enough detail. I would be cautious about using PETG or similar plastics where the failure mode would be to shatter.

Thanks for sharing all your careful work. It is particularly nice to see useful things designed to print without supports.

If I may ask, what CAD program did you use to design it?

Thank you. It was designed in Fusion 360.

Any chance you could post the fusion files?